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Oregon’s Rugged Coast is Spectacular in Springtime

Take a deep breath. On Oregon’s wild Central Coast the air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.

There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales.

*Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.*

Whale Watching

The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales, 20,000 of them according to some sources, pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.

*Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.*

It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spy hop so close to shore. We learned that spy hopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby. Maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy watching them.

*Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.*

Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.

*Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.*

Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.

*Stop by the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center.*

World’s Smallest Harbor

Make the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center your first stop. When we visited we saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.

*The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep.*

*Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.*

Volunteers can usually be found at coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks .org.

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse

There’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.

*The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.*

Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.

Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.

*The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.*

Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.

*To make the most of your visit make the Interpretive Center your first stop. Admission to the center is free but there is a fee to enter the park.*

*Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.*

Lighthouse Life

After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit.

Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.

*Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps.*

*A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.*

Marine Life

There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!

Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.

Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.

Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.

*Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.*

Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.

Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center

*Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.*

Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.

*Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.*

Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.

*Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development.*

*Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.*

Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave.

The Burrows House

Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19^th and early 20^th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.

*Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s.*

*This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.*

Hatfield Marine Science Center

Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.

Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense
of wonder in visitors of all ages.

*Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.*

The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.

Go Explore

Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.

Devil’s Punchbowl

Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.

*Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore!*

*Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide.*

Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.

Finders Keepers

Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.

Nye Beach

Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.

*It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.*

If You Go

Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.

There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.

Where to Eat

As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. You can’t go wrong with these:

Depoe Bay

Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.

*Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.*

Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.

Gleneden Beach

Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.

*We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them.*

*Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!*

Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.

Newport

Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.

*Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite.*

*The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious.*

*The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.*

We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.

Gleneden Breakfast

Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.

*Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning.*

*Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.*

The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.

Lincoln City

Kyllos- Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.

*We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.*

If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.

This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways… Find more Oregon fun here.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker.

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This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

Note: This article has been updated March 30, 2026.

Liguria: The Coastal Magic of Camogli, Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline. Think stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

***Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.***

Ligurian Coast

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. Though we’d gotten suggestions from La Spezia to Santa Margherita Ligure, we settled on Camogli.

Midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north, and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the exceedingly popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns, Camogli made sense as a base from which to explore this stretch of Italy’s coastline.

We planned to drive to the Ligurian Coast from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

Stuck

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels. The Italians call them galleries. We quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

I needed that distraction for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Find your accommodations here!

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

*Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool.*

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant, and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

Dinner With a View

We had phoned ahead from the tunnel, and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. After admiring the sea view, we tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable. Stuffed, we headed upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

***The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.***

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

***You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.***

***These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.***

Famous Fish Fry

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!

The early festivals used smaller cookware, but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. In 2025, they served three tons of fish fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil. In all, volunteers prepared 30,000 portions. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

The festival is free but hungry attendees are asked for a 6 Euro charitable donation. The fish fry is in the Guiness Book of World Records as the largest in the world.

Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.

Around Town

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare. It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

*You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!*

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that.

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

Camogli has a scenic harbor area and basilica to explore. The popular public beach is perfect for relaxing in the sunshine. Bring aqua socks. Beaches in this area are covered in stones, not sand.

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

Camogli basilica looms over the public beach — *Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.*

A Day Trip to the Abbey

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Pack your aqua socks. Many beaches in Liguria are covered with stones rather than sand. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet.

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach. Both were busy but we didn’t eat at either. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

*The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.*

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre: Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns.

It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess.

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

Riomaggiore was an exercise in patience and ours wore thin quickly. We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, until we couldn’t wait anymore. The highly touted charms of Riomaggiore were lost on us. We got on a train heading north to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised us to get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south.

On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

What to See

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants, and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were plenty of tourists, which we expected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden we had planned to visit was closed. We’d checked the website for Museo del Parco but that’s the way things are here sometimes.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake.

This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” He didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. When I showed the conductor our tickets, he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

*Wait until the exact time your train is due to board or you could inadvertently wind up in Genoa, like we did!*

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early. Ever.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

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A Visit to Friedrichshafen’s Fascinating Zeppelin Museum

zeppelin museum with playground in front of it

Can you resist looking up when the Goodyear blimp passes overhead? Imagine being among the first to spot a zeppelin as the strange looking aircraft floated by 125 years ago. Learn about the iconic airship that once captured the world’s imagination and transformed travel, commerce, and military strategy at a visit to Friedrichshafen’s fascinating Zeppelin Museum.

This engaging, family-friendly museum is perfect for fans of flight, military history, engineering, and adventure. The museum is a must for those fascinated by the Hindenburg disaster.

zeppelin suspended from ceiling — *After 125 years, Zeppelins are still a source of fascination.*

On the Shores of Lake Constance

museum signage about von Zeppelin — *Retired German General von Zeppelin correctly foresaw a rewarding future in the rigid airship.*

Housed in an enormous structure on the shores of Lake Constance, or the Bodensee in German, the Zeppelin Museum tells the story of the airship developed by Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin. A retired German General and an inventor with a penchant for engineering, he foresaw a future where these large, lighter than air, rigid airships would play an important role in transporting goods and people, with both commercial and military applications. For decades, they did just that.

men look at zeppelin models in glass cases

Visitors to the museum learn the science, technology, development and fascinating 125 year history of the airships. Compelling interactive and static exhibits tell the story. The first zeppelins, LZ 1 and LZ 2, were experimental aircraft and used to survey large swaths of Europe from their base in Friedrichshafen.

As von Zeppelin correctly surmised, the German military quickly saw their potential for surveillance and transportation. Consumer applications came soon after when zeppelins were used to transport goods over long distances.

First in Transatlantic Flight

reconstructed zeppelin hull — *The Hindenburg was the fastest way to cross the Atlantic for passengers and goods in 1936. The museum has a partial reconstruction of the airship* and *some of the wreckage from its crash.*

Zeppelins were first flown to destinations within Germany and then across Europe. The fast, economical airships became the first aircraft to carry passengers across the Atlantic Ocean.

By 1936, the Hindenburg carried passengers and up to eight tons of perishable goods like flowers, food, and medicine in its cargo hold for the relatively speedy two-day transAtlantic journey. Zeppelins were also used for polar expeditions including Roald Amundsen’s last fateful trip to rescue Italian explorers at the North Pole.

During Wartime

museum exhibits explain the zeppelin's history — *Zeppelins changed military strategy in WWI but barely played a role in WWII.*

The museum has fascinating exhibitions about the zeppelin’s role in WWI and the subsequent shut down of production demanded by the Allies after Germany’s loss in the conflict. Two of the already-built zeppelins were given as reparations to Italy and France. A third was sent to the USA. German engineers also came to the United States to work with the military to develop an American dirigible program.

Let Your Imagination Soar Aboard the Hindenburg

One of the highlights at the Zeppelin Museum is exploring a partial reconstruction of the Hindenburg. It was one of the largest passenger-carrying zeppelins ever built. The reconstruction was faithfully built adhering to the airship’s original plans.

Enjoy the 1930s Bauhaus design of the surprisingly spacious lounges and public spaces and relax where passengers would have. Peek into the restrooms and down the halls where the passenger cabins are located aboard the luxury airship. It’s clear that traveling by zeppelin was for strictly for those with means.

During the zeppelin’s heyday, 50 to 70 passengers could comfortably travel across the Atlantic to Lakehurst, New Jersey just outside of New York City, or to Brazil’s then capital, Rio de Janeiro. In 1928, the journey to New Jersey aboard the LZ 127 Graf Zeppelin took more than four days, while less than a decade later the Hindenburg could make the crossing in about 50 hours.

The Hindenburg Disaster

*The Hindenburg crash signaled the end of transatlantic passenger flights aboard zeppelins.*

After a transatlantic journey on May 6, 1937, the Hindenburg crashed and burned while landing in Lakehurst, New Jersey. The zeppelin was carrying half its normal passenger load on that flight. Incredibly, of the 97 people aboard, which included 61 crewmen and 36 passengers; 65 lived through the catastrophe while 32 souls perished. The museum contains photos, newsreels and news clips of one of the world’s most infamous air disasters.

An aviation failure of epic proportions, the fiery Hindenburg crash has been studied in minute detail since then. Spoiler alert: While a number of factors (highly combustible hydrogen gas, weather conditions, the flammable coating of the rigid aircraft) may all have played a role, the exact cause of the crash is still a mystery. Many of the most sensational photographs of the burning Hindenburg in the exhibition were taken by Richard Fleischhut, who became known for his photographic portraits of stars like Marlene Dietrich.

An older man and young boy look at an exhibit together — *The Zeppelin Museum is fascinating for visitors of all ages.*

With the development of faster aircraft and public confidence dwindling after the Hindenburg disaster, the era of passenger travel aboard zeppelins came to a close. This was not the end of the zeppelin, however. The museum explores how Hitler’s National Socialist Party leveraged the airships for propaganda purposes and used slave and forced labor brought to Friedrichshafen from across Europe to build zeppelins before and during WWII, even though they knew the airships had limited military usefulness.

A Family Connection

We have a family connection to that dark period of history. We spotted signage in the museum that noted after Allied bombers attacked Friedrichshafen on March 18, 1944, Hitler ordered all military production, including the Zeppelin factory, to move to hastily constructed underground bunkers. It was on that March 18th bombing run that my father-in-law and his B-24 crew mates, who had taken off from Wendling Air Base in the UK, were shot down over Friedrichshafen. They managed to fly their crippled aircraft across Lake Constance and landed in Switzerland, barely avoiding Nazi capture.

photograph and handwriting in an open book — *My father-in-law kept a journal during his internment in Switzerland in 1944. He is in the back row, second from the right, in the crew photo.*

The men were interned in Adelboden, Switzerland for the remainder of the war. The 392^nd bombing group had one of its deadliest days of the war on that mission. Only 10 of the 24 planes that flew to Friedrichshafen that day returned to England.

Models, Statistics, and A Flight Simulator

inside museum sign points to Hindenburg Hall — *Hindenburg Hall is the first stop for many visitors to the Zeppelin Museum.*

The museum has an entire gallery dedicated to the Hindenburg. In addition to models, photographs, and plenty of fascinating facts, the largest surviving pieces of Hindenburg wreckage are on display here; the rudder bearing arm and part of the tail unit.

In Zeppelin Hall, aviation fans can geek out over routes, statistics, comparisons, and models of various aircraft. There is a lot to see here. In addition to aircraft models, visitors can admire the luxurious Mercedes-Maybach custom-built for Herr Zeppelin, as well as other classic cars on exhibit.

*The museum explores the science, technology, and social impact of zeppelins. Be sure to see the advertisements for passenger travel.*

Ever wonder what makes a gas balloon rise or how airship gears and engines work? Visitors can learn the basics of flight technology and the science behind airships, and use the museum’s NT Zeppelin flight simulator to embark on a scientific research mission. The interactive stations bring the technology of zeppelins to life and are a hit with visitors of all ages.

The Wunderkammer: A Cabinet of Wonders

The zeppelin’s soaring popularity in the 1930s created a huge market for all things airship-related including clocks, coins, toys, and tableware. Based on 16^th century collector’s cabinets, the Wunderkammer is a treasure trove of 350 zeppelin-inspired items that can be further explored using the tablets near the displays. I could have spent hours in the Wunderkammer admiring everything from the carousel to miniature zeppelins.

Image and Power

After viewing the extensive exhibitions on the zeppelin’s history, development, role in two world wars, and the merchandise the zeppelin craze spawned; head upstairs to see the photography gallery. Image and Power: Photography in Focus contains fascinating photographs from the museum’s archives and explores the role photographs of the zeppelin played in promoting political agendas and national identity, among other things. The photographs will be on view until April 12, 2026.

photo of hindenburg over manhattan — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

photograph of women looking at zeppelin — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

Art and Restitution

Obligation of Ownership focuses on the provenance of the 40 works of art displayed here from the Bodensee Museum and the ongoing difficulties of reuniting art confiscated or stolen from victims of the Third Reich. The museum scrutinizes its own collection regarding Nazi looting and relocation of cultural treasures, along with a look at art dealers who played a role. Even 80 years after the end of the war, restitution work continues.

painting of a woman on a wall — *The challenge of reuniting art with its rightful owners continues 80 years after WWII ended.*

Take a Walk

After your visit to the Zeppelin Museum, take some time to explore Friedrichshafen. More than half of the city was destroyed by bombing during WWII, but today there are beautiful public gardens to stroll in, lovely churches to visit, and plenty of coffee shops, bars, and restaurants to relax in while you take in the views across Lake Constance to Switzerland’s magnificent mountains.

sculpture along the shores of lake constance

As you stroll along the Lake Constance shoreline take a moment to enjoy the public art including Helmut Lutz’s Sound Ship (above left), a carved wooden toad who appears to be watching the sunset over Switzerland (center), and a memorial to Herr von Zeppelin (right) in the park across from the water. There’s also a pedestrian shopping zone nearby if you’re looking for some retail therapy.

Practicalities: Plan Your Trip

We stayed at the charming Hotel Villino, a Relais & Chateau property in Bodolz, a 30-minute drive from Friedrichshafen. The Villino is a delightful, family-owned property with 21 beautifully decorated, comfortable rooms and suites. It is surrounded by gardens in a peaceful countryside setting and has a spa on the property. The hotel was the ideal base for exploring the Bodensee region and a pleasure to return to after day trips throughout the area.

The Villino boasts a Michelin-starred dining room with two elegant multi-course pre-fix menus with an Italian-Asian flair. We enjoyed the restaurant very much, both at breakfast and dinner. Reservations are essential for dinner.

Eat Like a Local

We also enjoyed dining in nearby Lindau at Hotel Restaurant Alte Post, known for traditional Styrian and Swabian cuisine like schnitzel, roasts, spaetzle, and fish dishes. It was the perfect place for dinner before catching a performance of Swan Lake at the Lindau Marionettenoper a few streets away. (Get tickets to see a show if you can; it’s a delightful experience.) In the warmer weather Alte Post’s beer garden is open, serving beverages and hearty fare. Be sure to reserve as the restaurant is very popular with residents and visitors.

plates of food — Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

For a very local experience, head to Bodolzer Dorfstubel in Bodolz. This casual eatery offers German dishes like schnitzel, spaetzle, wurstsalat, steaks, and stews. Our waiter, who didn’t speak English comfortably (I relied on Google translate) pulled up the restaurant’s Instagram account and showed us photos of the food to help us choose. It was a tasty meal that left us too full for dessert.

The Bodensee

The Bodensee region encompasses Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Lichtenstein, and offers travelers a world of cultural activities and culinary opportunities, along with boating, hiking, and other outdoor pursuits. The Zeppelin Museum is just one of the highlights in area filled with them. Be sure to get a Bodensee PLUS card for free admission to the Zeppelin Museum and 160 other attractions in the Lake Constance region. Visit traveltawk.com again soon for more stories on the fascinating cross-cultural Bodensee.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream!

Maui Magic: A Blowhole, Beach Hike and Dragon’s Teeth

After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales and finally, it was the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!

*What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?*

Nakalele

The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.

*The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!*

Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.

*Park on the shoulder.* *There’s no official parking area here.*

*There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.*

If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.

*The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery*.

*We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!*

Beware the Blowhole

Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.

*These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.*

You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.

*Stay safe and stay clear of the blowhole even when it isn’t active.*

Safety First!

This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.

The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.

*You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.*

We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.

Beachtime

We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.

*Enjoy the beautiful coastline as you make your way down Maui’s winding roads.*

At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.

*Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.*

D.T. Fleming Beach

D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!

*Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.*

The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.

*Bring your own chairs and picnic lunch. Services can be limited on many beaches.*

We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.

*The surf was rough and the lifeguards were busy!*

After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.

*This monument marks* *an ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.*

Take a Hike

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.

*The going got rough, and slippery, the further out on the point we ventured.*

*The scenery was breathtaking from Makaluapuna Point.*

Dragon’s Teeth

The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!

*Take time to walk the labyrinth and reflect.*

There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.

The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?

Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!

Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

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How to Visit Sunnylands: A Midcentury Masterpiece

I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage. During a visit to Palm Springs for Modernism Week I ventured behind the walls and discovered Sunnylands.

Tours of Sunnylands were among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 11-day celebration of all things midcentury Modern. I couldn’t resist a visit to the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife, Leonore.

Pink Sunnylands entry with Mexican lava rock fountain. — The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Some History

Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.

The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is the fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones. It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front doors of the historic main house open onto the spectacular great room. Pink marble floors, prolific plantings, and an outstanding art collection await visitors. Rodin’s Eve, surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads, will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium. There are exquisite midcentury furnishings and stunning panoramic desert views.

*Art Price’s **Birds of Welcome**, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greets visitors to Sunnylands.*

Inside Sunnylands

Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate. You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos.

The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Yellow, Pink, and Green

The stunning dining room, living room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour. Don’t miss their breakfast china. They both had their own pattern.

Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters. Mrs. Annenberg modified these after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94. The color-themed guest rooms, all in her favorite colors of yellow, pink and green, are also on the house tour.

You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood. She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.

Masterpieces

The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions. Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.

*This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.*

Playtime

The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012. That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.

Famous Guests

Sunnylands’ guest list is as impressive as the property. The Annenbergs welcomed eight U.S. Presidents among the notable visitors to their desert oasis. Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.

Ronald Reagan was good friend of the Annenbergs and frequent guest as President and before that as Governor of California. Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years.

U.S. Presidents

Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice, JellyBelly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands. Fun fact; the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!

*The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite and color-coordinated* jellybeans were always on hand. *Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

Richard Nixon, was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent visitor before, during and after his presidency. He spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.

President George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided.

President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate. He preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the well-stocked lake for early morning angling.

*President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.*

Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands. President Obama was a three-time visitor. He met with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate. The “Sunnylands Declaration” resulted from the meeting.

Welcoming World Leaders

Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE). It’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth IIPrince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands.

Weddings and Celebrations

It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party.

Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list. Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display throughout the home.

The historic main house can only be visited by guided tour. Tours must be booked online, typically one month in advance. Access is limited so Historic House Tour slots fill quickly. Plan ahead! This is the only tour that provides access to the home.

Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking. Children under 10 are not permitted. Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house.

Sunnyland’s Open Air Experience

There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more.

Sustainability

The Sunnylands Foundation is committed to sustainability. Steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens. Unlike the other tours, it does not require prior reservations.

Birding tours on the Estate are also available and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.

Visit the Gardens for Free

There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly. Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.

There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack. Enjoy indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden. We watched families playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.

The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools, a and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked. Surely, this adds to the enjoyment of amateur botanists.

If You Go

Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns. The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here. Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

How to Pack Light: Five Weeks with a Carry-On!

Packing for any trip, a weekend in wine country, a month in Europe, or something in between used to be second nature for me, but my skills got rusty during the pandemic. Thankfully, that’s way behind us. I’ve had lots of trips and plenty of practice packing light since then.

*Here’s how NOT to pack! What do they have in those big bags? And why?*

I just got back from five weeks in Europe with only a carry-on roller bag and one personal item. If I can do it, so can you. Here’s how to to get organized and travel lightly on your next adventure.

*These are my bags– for a five-week trip to Europe.*

Get Organized

Waiting until the last minute to pack means tossing stuff I don’t need into my bag and not bringing the things I do. Make a list or download one from one of the many online sites that offer them free. Do a preliminary pack about a week before you’re leaving and finalize right before you go. This goes for your suitcase (you won’t be checking it) and your one allowable personal item. Mine is a tote that carries a small purse, laptop and essentials like travel documents and medications. Like jewelry and other valuables, these are things you should never, ever check.

*Light layers took me comfortably from hiking in the Dolomites…*

Check the Weather

Unless you’re traveling in mid-winter, you’ll want to pack light layers. We stayed in a castle in Tuscany, went hiking in the Dolomites, wine tasting in Friuli, explored small cities in the Marche, spent time at the seaside in Abruzzo, and revisited the eternal city.

*…to the Adriatic seaside, and lots of places in between.*

The weather was very different in each of these places, but by taking layers, my five-week wardrobe fit nicely in my carry- on, thanks to packing cubes. I had the appropriate clothes for all the weather we encountered.

Take Half the Clothes and Twice the Money

That’s travel advice someone shared with me years ago and I still take it to heart. Chances are you’re going to be moving from one destination to another and seeing different people in all of those places. No one will know you’ve worn that outfit five times already. People everywhere dress much more casually than they used to– keep that in mind as you select your travel wardrobe.

Choose clothes you’re comfortable in. A trip abroad is not the time to discover your pants are too tight. If you’re like me, you may even add a few pounds on your travels so clothes that fit a little more loosely at the start of the trip is a good thing.

Leave Them Behind

I often bring a few things that are nearly ready for the donation bin, wear them a few last times and leave them behind. Now there’s more room for purchases in my bag.

*Neutrals are always appropriate. Use accessories to change your look.*

Choose Neutrals

Pick black, white, camel, gray or navy as your base to create a “capsule wardrobe,” which means everything goes with everything else. Use accessories for a pop of color (I love scarves) and to change up your look. Remember the 3:1 rule, pack three tops for every bottom. Lay out whatever you think you need and then put at least one third of it back in the closet. You don’t need it—trust me.

What Are You Doing?

Consider the activities you have planned. Your wardrobe for hiking in the Italian Alps is going to look a lot different than a theater-going marathon in London. Obviously, you’ll want performance fabrics for athletic endeavors. Choose natural fabrics, think cotton and silk, that will keep you comfortable for everything else. Merino wool works for most of the year and linen can’t be beat for hot summer days. Separates will provide much more flexibility than dresses or jumpsuits, but I always bring a dress, just in case I am going to the theater after a hike in the mountains.

*Some trips include all kinds of activities and events. We went from mountain hikes in the Dolomites to concerts in Salzburg and Vienna!*

Nice trousers, a button down shirt and a sweater will be fine for a night at the theater for men, though many we saw at classical concerts last fall in Vienna and Salzburg were in suits.

*People dress much more casually than they used to, even on a Saturday night in Rome.*

The Shoe Dilemma

You do not need five pairs of shoes. Bring comfortable flats that can also go out to dinner, walking shoes or sneakers for daytime, and sandals or flip flops (good as slippers, too) if you’re headed to a sunny locale. Three pairs is plenty and be sure they’re comfortable. Blisters will ruin that romantic Parisian stroll you planned. If you’re hiking, or going into wet/snowy weather, that’s a different story.

Wear your heaviest shoes/boots on the plane. Never bring new shoes and leave those cute heels at home! Streets are cobbled or uneven in many destinations. Men can get by with sandals (in warm weather), walking shoes that are comfortable but dressy enough for evening out, and a good pair of sneakers.

*Check out their footwear– flats and sneakers. Cobbled streets like these in Seville are more the rule than the exception.*

Outer Layers

If the weather is changeable, I pack a puffer jacket and a vest (Patagonia’s nanopuff is my go-to) and a lightweight, waterproof shell with a pair of gloves and a scarf tucked in the pocket. That combination sees me through all but the coldest conditions.

Laundry

Pack for no more than a week, no matter how long you’ll be traveling. Wash lighter things in the bathroom sink in your hotel. Bring inflatable hangers and a few plastic clothes pins (also good for keeping drapes closed) — and use hotel shampoo as laundry soap.

For heavier things like pants and shirts we use Google Maps to find a fluff- and -fold cleaner with drop- off service near our lodgings. We dropped our laundry off in Kalamata and learned it was the same cleaner the hotel used, but we paid the local’s price. They even delivered our clothes back to our hotel for us.

*If we can’t find a drop-off fluff and fold, we head to a laundromat.*

If you’re staying in an apartment with a washer, lucky you. Don’t expect to have a clothes drier in Europe—you’ll likely have a clothesline or drying rack. That works, too.

Medication, Documents, Jewelry

Bring extra prescription medications in case your return is delayed—and these days, it easily could be. We woke up to a text announcing our flight home later that day from Madrid was cancelled. Keep medication in its original container, or to save room, get pill pouches (tiny plastic bags available at pharmacies), peel off and apply the label from your Rx bottles and you’re set. Never pack medications in your luggage. Ask your doctor for paper copies of any prescriptions you take regularly in case you need to get more abroad.

*Keep passports and other documents, medications and any valuables with you at all times, not in your luggage.*

Leave jewelry at home. Unless you wear it every day, don’t bring it. You don’t want your bling bringing unwanted attention.

They Sell Toothpaste Overseas

*Hotels usually provide shampoo, bath gel, body lotion, soap, etc.– the basics will be waiting for you. No need to pack them.*

Don’t bring every toiletry and beauty product you use at home. Stick to travel sizes of the few you must have and buy what you need when you arrive. Toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and other necessities are readily available in most places you’ll be going. Remember–those 3.4 ounce liquids must fit into a quart- sized bag. If you transit through London Heathrow you will have to go through security again, even if you are departing from the same terminal you flew into. British Airways’ “quart” bag seems a tad smaller to me and you must be able to zip the bag completely closed or risk having your products confiscated. Not sure if you can carry it on? Check TSA.

*Sunny skies can change in a heartbeat. Pack light layers and an umbrella and you’ll be prepared for almost anything!*

Must Haves

Take an umbrella and a swimsuit no matter where you’re going. If you unexpectedly find yourself at the seaside or it turns out your hotel has a pool, you don’t want to frantically shop for a swimsuit— a daunting proposition at the best of times. A small, foldable umbrella is great for sun protection when you’re trekking through sunbaked ruins, as well as for the rain that’s bound to fall.

*We wouldn’t have wanted to miss a sunset swim at the Castello Delle Serre in Rapolano.*

Go Carry On

Don’t check your bag. In the old days I used to drag along a suitcase that was nearly as big as I am. I’m not a tall person, but you get the idea. After a certain British airline lost my luggage on the way to a Mediterranean cruise, I now check a bag only under duress. I like knowing my belongings are right above me in the overhead compartment, especially if I’m making connections.

*Don’t give airlines a chance to lose your bag or waste time waiting at the baggage carousel.*

Reasons Not to Check Bags

I’ve heard so many horror stories about lost luggage but this is one of the worst: A friend’s luggage was recovered at London Heathrow four months after she returned from what should have been a romantic anniversary trip– everything was wet and ruined. Don’t let lost luggage ruin your trip before it even starts.

*Imagine dragging these bags around Rome?*

If your flight is cancelled or delayed, your chances of rebooking or going standby are much better if you haven’t checked luggage. When our flight home from Brussels was cancelled at the end of a busy Easter Week, we got the last seats on the next flight out because we had our bags with us.

*While these aren’t huge bags, she’s got two of them, and a duffel, and a purse. Take at least a third of what you think you’ll need out of your bag– you don’t need it. I promise.*

Use your coat as an extra carry on. Fill the pockets with small items (not liquids). Put a second jacket inside the first and put a vest or sweater in the sleeves. Make every pocket count!

If you travel with a portable medical device it does NOT count as your one allowable personal item. You can bring it aboard along with your roller bag plus your purse or backpack/tote bag. My husband has one and he takes advantage of any extra space in the device’s carry bag.

Stay Connected

Electronics need chargers and converters so be sure to pack enough for all your devices. You may also want to add an international calling/data plan to your mobile phone before you go. Use WhatsApp to stay in touch for free and use free WIFI when you can, though obviously not for sensitive information. You can also get a new SIM card at your destination(s) but be sure to let friends and family know your new phone number.

Someone recently asked me if they needed converters for their hair dryer and other styling tools. The answer is NO. You’re going to leave those things at home. Every hotel and apartment rental I’ve ever stayed in anywhere in the world has had a hair dryer.

*He’s heading to the gate with just the right amount of carry-on luggage*, *no matter how long the journey.*

Ready, Set, Pack!

Pack light. Leave valuables at home. Keep passports, medications and other hard -to -replace items with you—not in your luggage. Don’t check your bag unless you absolutely have to, and remember, if you forget something, 99 percent of the time there will be stores where you’re going. Ready, set, pack!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Semana Santa: How to Celebrate Holy Week in Spain

Throughout Spain, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, known as Semana Santa or Holy Week, is one of the most important of the year. Spaniards observe Semana Santa joyously and solemnly. Each afternoon and evening from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, people, sometimes numbering in the thousands, gather in city streets and town squares. They celebrate a Catholic tradition that dates back at least to the 15^th century—to the reign of the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.

The Story of the Passion

During the reign of the Catholic monarchs, as Isabella and Ferdinand were known, the population was mostly illiterate. To reach as many people as possible, they told the story of Christ’s resurrection in a way that was easily understood and that has endured for centuries, through processions.

Processions on each day of Semana Santa correspond to the story of Christ’s Passion, Death, and Resurrection with different pasos depicting specific biblical scenes from the New Testament. Here’s our experience:

*In Ronda, one of Andalusia’s famous “white towns,” Jesus is shown arriving in Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday*. *This is the beginning of Holy Week.*

500 Years of Tradition in Spain

We arrived in Madrid for the first time on a Maundy Thursday. The Thursday before Easter commemorates Christ’s Last Supper and is one of the Catholic Church’s holiest days. Though it was after 9 p.m., we were confident we’d find plenty of dinner options in a city known for dining late. Instead, we found one restaurant after another closed.

Finally, at the Bar Santa Clara, the proprietor explained most places were closed not due to the hour, but to the day. He pointed out it was Holy Week and that in Madrid people take Easter very seriously.

He said we could have “anything on toast,” but that was all they would serve that evening. We ordered everything available; cheese, tomatoes, anchovies, and ham. All on toast.

We returned to our apartment behind the Prado Museum close to midnight. Just as were getting ready for bed, our son excitedly announced that he “heard a parade”. We followed the pounding of drums and the heady scent of incense down our street towards San Jeronimo. That’s the church favored by Spain’s Royal Family. Sure enough, a candlelit procession appeared out of the dark.

Processions

We watched columns of marchers in various colored robes, faces covered, wearing tall, pointed hats. It was unsettling. Next, swaying to the music and moving slowly, came an enormous float featuring a life-sized Christ figure. The floats are called pasos.

Beneath it, we could see the strained faces of the men who somberly carried it on their shoulders. We watched until the entire procession passed into the church.

*The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful in Spain, filled in minutes before the procession began.*

We didn’t understand the scale of Holy Week celebrations in Spain, or their importance, until the next evening. We found ourselves caught up in enormous crowds between four different processions around the Plaza Mayor. This, we began to understand, was how they celebrate Semana Santa here. We joined in.

*Sevilla is famous for its elaborate Semana Santa celebrations.*

Preparing for Semana Santa

Fast forward a few years and we are in Sevilla. Though the Semana Santa festivities won’t begin for another week, preparations are well underway. Colorful banners hang from balconies lining the procession routes that crisscross the city.

Workers erect barricades and set up chairs and bleachers in key locations for those privileged few with tickets. Most onlookers crowd streets and sidewalks waiting and watching for the story of the Passion of the Christ to unfold, as it has for 500 years or more.

Meanwhile, cofradias (also called hermandades) or brotherhoods, are busy in parishes everywhere, painstakingly assembling the lavish pasos. These floats are beautiful works of art. Each features biblical scenes that tell the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection from the New Testament.

The Pasos

The pasos hold life-sized statues often handcrafted from wood and can include precious metals. They are laden with candles, fresh flowers, and icons. The most beautiful of these hold a single statue, the Madonna or Senora Dolarosa, the grieving mother of Christ.

The Madonna wears an elaborate cape, often hand- embroidered with gold and silver thread. She is bedecked in gleaming jewels and surrounded by candles and flowers.

*Jamie is a member of the confradia at the Church of the Magdalena and one of the 35 to 45 men, called costaleros, who will carry this exquisite paso through the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week.*

While the pasos are being readied, you can see them in their parishes. We spent days wandering from church to church in several cities to see these magnificent pasos up close. The exquisite detail of the pasos and the cofradias careful handiwork is even more spectacular up close.

We talked with Jamie, a member of the brotherhood at the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalene in Sevilla. He is one of the paso bearers. They are called costaleros and carry the pasos through Sevilla’s cobbled streets. Sometimes for up to six hours.

He told us some pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds and take between 35 to 45 men to carry. Only women carry the paso of the Holy Mother in some parishes, as we saw in several processions in Salamanca.

Pasos, like this one at the Monastery of San Juan do los Reyes in Toledo, are on display in churches during Holy week. Visiting different parishes gives you the chance to admire the careful craftsmanship that goes into these spectacular floats up close.

How it Begins

Shortly before a procession begins, the sidewalks and streets swell with families who seem to appear from nowhere. A carnival-like atmosphere prevails. There are street vendors selling sweets and snacks, drinks, balloons, tiny penitent figures and other souvenirs.

Soon, the incense smoke thickens, music starts, and the excitement in the air is palpable. Fathers hoist their young children onto their shoulders, and everyone crowds closer and often right into the street where the procession will pass.

Who Marches

Some processions have only drummers; most have full marching bands, and sometimes participants sing or chant. Depending on the size and importance of a brotherhood, parish, and the day in Holy Week, there will be numerous pasos in a single procession.

*People fill the streets and vendors with balloons, toys, sweets and drinks create a carnival-like atmosphere before and after Semana Santa processions.*

Embroidered banners announce the cofradias; a priest with a silver cross leads children carrying incense or lanterns. Nazarenos in their colored robes, faces covered by capuz or hoods, and hats called capirote pointing high to the heavens, follow. These are the penitents.

Then there are the Mujeres de la Mantilla. These ladies dress all in black, from their lacey veils to their shoes. They process silently and somberly, carrying candles and rosary beads.

Everywhere in Spain, men, women and children march slowly through the streets during Semana Santa’s processions, each with a role to play in this ancient ritual.

*Young, old, believers or not, everyone crowds onto Spanish streets, like this one in Granada, to watch the traditional processions that mark Semana Santa.*

It’s Emotional

It is magical and emotional to be a part of this. Many people cry silently with tears streaming down their faces, some sob violently. Others cheer and clap, or watch quietly, as the exquisite pasos pass by, but there are no blank expressions. These processions touch people at the most visceral level. Finally, the pasos will re-enter the church they left from hours before. The streets empty almost as quickly as they filled.

The Senora Delarosa represents Christ’s grieving mother, the Virgin Mary. These beautiful sculptures are bedecked in jewels and exquisite garments, and surrounded with fresh flowers and candles. They usually follow the other pasos in Holy Week processions.

How to Prepare

Every city we visited during this sacred time of year has procession routes and schedules available online and/or in print. Look for the booklets in cafes, shops and bars. This is valuable information for visitors to either find or avoid the processions.

Be aware of street closures. Whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic. Even passing on foot is extremely difficult, especially during the most important processions like on Good Friday. Sevilla, Toledo, Malaga and other cities have Semana Santa apps, updated annually. Download them on your iPhone.

*The Risen Christ greets onlookers from this paso at an Easter Sunday procession approaching Salamanca’s Cathedral.*

We have been fortunate to celebrate Semana Santa and Easter Sunday in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, Toledo, and Salamanca. Each city offered a unique and beautiful experience. No matter which region you visit, Semana Santa is an incredible time to be in Spain. It’s not too soon to begin planning for next year.

If You Go

Be prepared for huge crowds during Semana Santa.

Streets and sometimes whole areas of a city close to traffic during Holy Week. Try not to arrive in your destination city during or right before a major procession. You may not be able to reach your hotel.

Download the Semana Santa app many cities offer or check with your hotel or the local tourist office for maps and procession times.

Make hotel reservations early for the Easter holidays. Be sure to book reservations for dinner as soon as possible. Leave plenty of time if your restaurant is anywhere near a procession route.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Palm Springs—Marvelous Modernism Week

Note: This story will be updated with information from Modernism Week 2026, which just wrapped up, but in the meantime, here’s an article I wrote a few years ago about this celebration of all things midcentury.

Palm Springs. Just the thought conjures up sunny skies, swimming pools, palm trees; a picture perfect place to relax and enjoy the desert climate, perhaps with a cocktail in hand. Palm Springs is also a mecca for midcentury modern architecture, design and style.

Palm Springs shifts into high gear each February, as Midcentury Modern fans from across the globe descend on this laid-back desert community for the 11-day festival called Modernism Week. In 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shutdown hit, 162,000 attendees came to enjoy midcentury fun in the sun. I was one of them.

*Bus tours, walking tours, bike tours, architectural tours, garden tours and my favorite– home tours– are all part of the fun at Modernism Week.*

Modernism Week offers more than 350 events including signature home tours, films, lectures, fashion shows, bus tours, bike tours, walking tours, garden tours, parties, a vintage trailer show, art exhibitions, vintage car show, design expo, cooking demonstrations, concerts—all focused on midcentury modern design, architecture, art, and culture. Here’s a look at some of the featured homes from past Modernism Week festivals:

The collection of framed artwork above represents popular midcentury swimming pool shapes. The owl-themed wall paper in the bar area is also very much on brand in this 2020 Modernism Week featured home.

*This room has midcentury style in spades, from the Hockney print to the light fixture to the room divider!*

*This midcentury office was so much fun, I’m using it as my Zoom background.*

*Wallpaper was an important design element in the classic midcentury home. This room shows how bold wallpaper keeps the look fresh.*

*This shagalicious sitting area screams 1960s… and that wall paper!*

*Part of the fun of home tours is meeting the architects, designers and the home owners who live in these wonderful spaces. Kevin and Howard are designers and the homeowners here.*

Lots of desert homes have courtyards featuring brise soleil– French for “sun breaker” –to let the air in but keep the sun out. You’ll see some elaborate examples from the double decker bus tours, as well as on home tours.

As if all those tours, presentations and special events weren’t enough, last year there were opportunities to meet with landscape architects (including my friend Amelia Lima, an award- winning landscape architect), authors, designers and other experts during the event–sometimes one-on-one to help you solve your design problems indoors and out. There was even a chance for some retail therapy at the annual vintage yard sale. There’s truly something for everyone who loves the mid-century aesthetic at Modernism Week!

*The always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo is a highlight for many at Modernism Week.*

*Shopping for vintage decor as well as brand new pieces like this cork furniture by Eugene Stotzfus is all part of the fun at the Modernism Show and Sale.*

In addition to all those tours and talks, demonstrations and presentations, there are parties!

*They were just putting the festive finishing touches on this home, by Christopher Kennedy, when we arrived. It’s fun to experience featured show homes in a relaxed and convivial setting.*

I usually start my day at CAMP – Modernism Week’s ‘Community and Meeting Place’ and defacto headquarters for tours and events.

*I like to start my day with a cup of Koffi at CAMP! Koffi has been providing complimentary coffee and tea to attendees since I’ve been coming to Modernism Week.*

At CAMP, you’ll find information, complimentary coffee, a snack bar, pop-up bookstore and shop, cooking demonstrations, and swoon worthy sponsor displays from companies like Ferguson Kitchen, Bath & Lighting Gallery, Corian Design, JennAir, and Brizo. Many nights CAMP hosted live music by the Dreamboats and a happy hour. It was a great place to take a break, grab a bite and mingle.

*Meet my new friends. Dressed to impress for Modernism Week, they’re here from Calgary to enjoy live music by the Dreamboats and Happy Hour at CAMP.*

*CAMP serves as “headquarters” for Modernism Week. Step inside for information, tickets, book and gift shop, coffee, snack bar, demonstrations and more.*

Due to the ongoing pandemic and local and state requirements, Modernism Week will be different this year. The 2021 celebration will actually be two events. Organizers have announced that this year’s celebration will include an all-virtual program for the entire month of February and in person events scheduled for April 8-18.

The Modernism Week Online Experience from Feb. 1 – 28, 2021 will feature more than 20 video programs available for on demand streaming throughout the month. The April 8-18 festival in Palm Springs will include in-person events, including home and garden tours, as well as additional virtual experiences. Please visit modernismweek.com for program updates.

Charles Phoenix, the always popular midcentury modern expert and author, took us on a fabulous virtual trip to some of Palm Springs most iconic homes during October Preview Week. Photo courtesy Modernism Week.

I sampled Modernism Week’s first virtual offering during the October Preview Week event which was held all online due to Covid-19. I took a wildly entertaining virtual “ride” with Charles Phoenix, the cheeky midcentury expert and author who typically leads sold- out bus tours during Modernism Week.

Elvis Presley and his bride Priscilla spent their honeymoon at this Palm Springs Swiss Miss -style home. Modernism Week’s virtual tour takes you inside where you’ll get a peek at things like the circular electric range– high style for the times!

Mr. Phoenix is a hoot, to say the least, and led a fast- paced and informative trip around Palm Springs in his vintage ride. I “visited” numerous midcentury icons including Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s Swiss Miss honeymoon hideaway and Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House with Mr. Phoenix and loved every minute of it.

*I’d seen the exterior of the Richard Neutra- designed Kaufmann House on other Modernism Week tours, but the virtual visit took viewers inside this home and many others.*

I also took virtual tours of the stunning SkyFall House—yes, you might expect Mr. Bond to arrive via parachute over the pool—the fabulous Pierre Cardin House with a 1972 special Cardin edition AMC Javelin in the garage, the Edris House with its Dixiecup lighting, and the home noted midcentury architect Donald Wexler designed for his own family, along with other historic area dwellings– all thanks to a series of videos created especially for Modernism Week. I’m looking forward to February’s slate of programs!

While the virtual programming was entertaining and informative, I’m excited about the April 2021 in person programming. Organizers have announced that all activities and events are designed to meet social distancing and safety protocols per California public health requirements.

Modernism Week’s 2020 featured homes were very special, particularly properties like the Miles Bates Wave House designed by Walter S. White.

The iconic Wave House, named for its curvilinear roof, was designed by Walter S. White for Miles Bates in 1955. The building, which had fallen into disrepair and was on the auction block when we saw it in 2018, was open for touring during Modernism Week 2020. The transformation was stunning!

Here’s what Miles Bate’s Wave House looked like when we first saw it in 2018. The inside was even sadder than the exterior. Happily it was purchased and restored to its former glory by LA’s Stayner Architects. Beginning summer 2021, it will be available for events and overnight stay rentals.

*Here’s a look at the cozy kitchen and living area of the Wave House, now beautifully restored.*

The upcoming April events will feature signature home tours, architectural walking tours, an outdoor garden tour, a number of talks and special events, plus the always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo.

*I am very excited about the return of in person home tours in April. This stunning “Mesa Modern” was a featured home in 2020.*

*Indoor/outdoor living is a hallmark of midcentury modern architecture. This home showcases the concept brilliantly!*

Visits to Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms and the William Holden Estate are part of the 2021 program, as are outdoor neighborhood tours in Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Indian Wells; tours of the Lautner Compound; fashion events; and a vintage automobile exhibition.

*Visits to historic homes like the O’Donnell House, are also a part of Modernism Week activities. I toured Ojo Del Desierto, or Eye of the Desert, as Thomas O’Donnell called his home, in 2020.*

One of the O’Donnell House bedrooms features head and footboards carved with the iconic bell that marked California’s Camino Real established by Junipero Serra during the Mission period. The home is available for rentals and events.

This year there will be two outdoor tours of Sunnylands, one of my favorite places to visit in the desert and a discovery I made during Modernism Week a few years ago. There will be a shuttle tour of the exceptional landscaping around the estate and a historic walking tour of the expansive grounds.

The former home of media mogul Walter and Lenore Annenberg, this midcentury masterpiece has hosted eight US presidents (two of whom were close friends of the Annenbergs), royalty and international leaders, and continues to play a role in promoting world peace under the auspices of the Sunnylands Trust.

When indoor tours resume, take one! You have to see the Reagan’s favorite bedroom where Mrs. Annenberg made sure to have plenty of the former President’s preferred snack—Jellybelly jelly beans that just happen to coordinate with the bed linens! You can read and see more about this desert treasure here.

Interior tours of Sunnylands are not available now due to the pandemic, but we highly recommend you take one when they return. Photography is not permitted inside the home. This image is courtesy of Sunnylands.

There are plenty of free and low-cost activities during Modernism Week. Some of the best values are the fascinating presentations given by experts in design, architecture, midcentury culture and style, and landscape design. Some of these cost as little as $10.

*Some of Modernism Week’s presentations take place at the nearby Palm Springs Art Museum, like this one about Eero Saarinen.*

*Textile designer and social “disrupter” Marguerita Mergentime was the subject of another fascinating presentation during Modernism Week 2020.*

Ticket sales support an ongoing scholarship program for Coachella Valley students embarking on an education in architecture and design. Attendees contribute to a worthwhile cause while enjoying all things midcentury modern. For more information and tickets visit Modernism Week 2021.

Autumn Hiking in Italy’s Dazzling Dolomites: Here’s Why Everyone Wants to Go!

You’ll see the imposing peaks of the Dolomites piercing the South Tyrolean sky long before you reach them. This stunning autonomous region the Italians call Sud Tirol has been a mecca for skiers for decades, but our sights were set on autumn hiking.

*The Dolomites have long been a favorite destination for skiers but these mountains are also a hiker’s heaven in summer and fall!*

Our destination was Ortesei in Val Gardena, host of the 2024 Skiing World Cup and a paradise for hikers before the snow falls. We headed North from Trento in late September, with a quick stop at Cisalfa—a huge sporting goods store, to pick up warmer hiking clothes for my husband whose plans to wear shorts were thwarted by early cold temperatures. Snow was already falling high in the mountains. Florescent green fleece and hiking pants in hand, off we went to Ortesei.

*The views become more spectacular as you wend your way up into the Dolomites– part of the Italian Alps.*

After exiting the freeway, the winding roads become increasingly steep as you climb higher into the mountains. Austrian until after WWI when it became a part of Italy, German is the preferred language in this region where Italian and Austrian culture and cuisine mingle. Everyone we met spoke German, Italian and English (or two of the three languages) while some locals also speak Ladin, a culturally significant language particular to a this area of the Sud Tirol.

*German, Italian and Ladin are the three languages spoken in this area of the Sud Tirol.*

For this reason, most places have three names—Italian Ortesei is called St. Ulrich in German and Urtijei in Ladin. Along with Santa Cristina and Selva, these three towns comprise the Val Gardena.

*You’ll see plenty of sheep, goats and cows as you explore the mountains in the Val Gardena.*

*Picture perfect, Ortesei is the largest town in the Val Gardena.*

We passed storybook dwellings and plenty of cows, sheep and goats before reaching the delightful Alpine town of Ortesei. Shops specializing in locally produced high- quality carved wooden items, boutiques, art galleries, a lovely church, restaurants, cafes, and bars beckon visitors down the town’s main street—an inviting pedestrian zone.

*Ortesei’s main street, a pedestrian zone, is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and bars.*

The bright yellow Hotel Adler- Dolomiti stands out in its prominent position at the top of the pedestrian zone– our home for the next 10 days.

Find your Dolomites accommodations here.

*Market day brings vendors and visitors to town. You’ll find everything from sausage to ski wear for sale!*

I’d chosen the Adler Dolomiti because a stay here includes plenty of autumn activities. Daily guided hikes for varying levels of expertise and fitness, Nordic trekking, Kniepp walks, e-bike tours, Tibetan sound baths, yoga and exercise classes, a world-class spa with a new sauna pavilion, two indoor/outdoor pools, jacuzzi (with spectacular mountain views), a salt grotto, wine tastings, and gourmet dining are all on offer. It’s like the ultimate upscale sleep away camp for adults!

*The guided hike to Col Raiser is spectacular and popular with Adler guests. It includes a stop at the Unesco “balcony”.*

Activities, events, nightly dinner menus, spa specials, local lore and more are all in The Carpe Diem, The Adler’s daily newsletter available at breakfast in English, German and Italian. Guests can also access this information, and sign-up for activities, at info.adler-dolomiti.com.

*There are activities for most levels of fitness at the Adler-Dolomiti.* *Staff are happy to help you select from the many offerings.*

There’s a lot to do here but don’t be surprised to see guests at breakfast, in the lobby, or wandering the premises in their fluffy white Adler robes and slippers. Many people come just to relax and enjoy the spa. They don’t venture out—nor do they don street attire, except at dinner!

*There’s nothing like enjoying a post-hike swim and watching the steam rise from the heated pool while snow falls in the mountains above.*

Half board, which we chose and highly recommend, includes an abundant breakfast buffet with cold selections like local yogurt and cheeses, charcuterie, made to order hot items, pastries and fresh baked breads, fruit, cereals, fresh squeezed orange juice and honeycomb—the hearty breakfast every hiker needs to start the day!

*The Adler kitchen can pack a picnic lunch for hungry hikers*. *This first day hike to Furnes gave us a chance to get to know our fellow guests* *and reconnect with Alexander, who’d led us on hikes last year.*

The lunch buffet is not included in half board but is available for a fee and includes hot entrees, cold items, salads, cheeses and dessert.

*We chose half board which includes both an abundant breakfast buffet and gourmet dinners daily.*

*The dinner menu changes nightly and even after a week, there were no repeats.*

Dinner starts at 7 pm with a menu that changes daily but always features a salad bar, a choice of appetizers, first courses, second courses and a very satisfying cheese selection and dessert bar. There’s also a nightly vegetarian option. You’ll have the same table and waitstaff each evening of your stay and if you don’t finish your wine, the staff will be happy to cork it and save it for your next dinner.

*The weekly Tyrolean buffet included music by this gentleman who turned out to be a local cheese maker. His delicious cheeses were available that evening.*

Once a week local musicians entertain diners at the Tyrolean buffet of local specialties from charcuterie to entrees, and my new favorite dessert—Kaiserschmarrn, a fluffy crepe served with a delicious berry preserve and plenty of powdered sugar. Are you hungry yet?

*Kaisserschmarrn! Order this local specialty every chance you get. You’re welcome.*

There’s nightly entertainment in the piano bar which is also open in the afternoon for coffee, drinks, and complimentary cakes. It’s a relaxing place to meet for a drink with your fellow guests before dining and after. Aperitivo time is part of the culture!

*Part of the fun of staying at the Adler is making new friends. After a busy day, meet up in the bar for an aperitivo before dinner!*

Rooms are large, airy and comfortable and many have balconies overlooking the expansive grounds– ours did. The photos on the hotel’s website adler-resorts.com are a good representation.

*Here’s our room with a view! Fluffy robes and slippers, refreshing toiletries, soothing teas, water and local apples are provided.*

Both times we’ve stayed we’ve had a view over the pools, the mountains beyond, and the lifts to the Alpe di Siusi—less than a 10 -minute walk from the Adler. It’s sometimes difficult to leave all this in the morning, but the mountains beckon!

*Wouldn’t you love to wake up to this?* *The new sauna complex is just beyond the pools.*

*The gondola to Alpe di Siusi is just a short walk from the Adler and there is a car park if you’re just visiting for the day.*

Europe’s largest alpine meadow, the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm in German and Mont Seuc in Ladin), is crisscrossed with hiking trails, handy lifts to get you up and down if you get tired of hiking, and plenty of mountain bike trails.

*Hiking, biking and spectacular views bring visitors to Europe’s largest Alpine Meadow from all over the world during summer and autumn.*

*Book a carriage ride for your sightseeing if you don’t want to hike.*

The mountains in the Val Gardena are dotted with huttes– rustic restaurants where you can relax with a drink or a hearty meal. Some have a few rooms to rent.

*You’ll find these rustic restaurants throughout the Dolomites*. *This is Sanon Hutte in the Alpe di Siusi.*

*A typical hutte lunch menu–hearty food is always on offer.*

Part of the fun of hiking with a group from the Adler is the conviviality. We enjoyed a great group lunch at Sanon Hutte and thanks to my friend Claudia—Kaiserschmarrn for dessert! Some days we also just stopped for a coffee- during our trek or after. Lucky for us our German, Austrian and Italian friends spoke English and let me practice my Italian, too. Conversation was never lagging!

*We shared lots of lunches, coffees and laughs together with our new friends.*

We spent several days exploring different areas of the Alpe di Siuisi with and without guides. There are trails and loops at varying lengths and degree of difficulty and plenty of mountain biking trails– whichever you choose, the views are guaranteed to be spectacular!

*Stunning scenery, like these views of the Sassolungo, make the Alpe di Siusi one of my favorite places to explore.*

*These are secretly the happiest cows– sorry California!*

The gondola to Seceda and funicular to Resciesa are also just a 10-minute walk from the Adler- Dolomiti and will bring you to some of the most spectacular peaks in the Val Gardena.

*So many choices– and they’re all amazing!*

Seceda, at 8,200 feet, is part of the Odle Group and means needles in Ladin. The views are breathtaking!

*You’ll feel like you’re on top of the world when you’re hiking in the Dolomites.*

*The modern funicular whisks you to Rescieda in minutes.*

*We were heading to the summit just as the clouds were lifting!*

*We had the trail mostly to ourselves in Resciesa.*

We hiked Resciesa on our own one day and found ourselves in the clouds. The summit at Resciesa has a large cross on top– our goal. You’ll go left when you exit the funicular to hike here. There’s a hutte along the way, if you’d like to stop for a break, enjoy the views and soak up the serenity up here.

The Val Gardena has so much to offer and some of it is surprising! We visited Europe’s highest altitude rose garden in the neighboring town of Bulla, after a guided hike on a geo trail through the piney woods. Who knew there would be a beautiful rose garden here? The roses at Rosarium Uhrenhof were having their second bloom and were robust in spite of the autumn chill. Admission to the garden is free but donations are welcome.

*We hiked all kinds of trails in all sorts of conditions. The hotel’s complimentary hiking poles came in very handy*, *especially on the downhill slopes.*

*The Rosarium Uhrenhof is beautful even in the rain.* *Our guide, Pauli, showed us some of his favorite flowers.*

*The Dolomiti Rose was one of our favorite blooms.*

Another day, we trekked along the Way of the Cross in Selva with our guide Alexander. After a relatively flat hike, we climbed to the ruins of the Wolkenstein Castle, which is built into the mountainside. Though we couldn’t enter, we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the “terrace” with amazing views over the valley.

*Nearby Selva de Gardena is home to the ruined Wolkenstein Castle.* *It’s difficult to see from the path below but the trail to reach it is well signed.*

*Not everyone in our group chose to climb the narrow, rocky trail to the castle, but we did. There’s no pressure to do more than you’re comfortable with.*

*The castle is built right into the mountainside– a perfect defensive position!*

The interior of the castle is posted but there are benches and stone walls you can sit on. Take in the views over the Val Gardena and relax for awhile.

*Our guide Alexander shared lots of history, geography and local lore on our hikes.*

While we saw lots of sheep and goats on our hikes, we also had an encounter with alpacas on our hike back from the Adler BBQ– which the hotel offers weekly (weather permitting) on Monte Pana. If you stay at the Adler, sign up for the BBQ– it’s a great hike there and back and they serve a hearty, multi-course lunch of local specialties. Bonus– there’s Kaiserschmarrn for dessert!

*Our chefs prepared an enormous pot of polenta, plus lots of local specialties from charcuterie to Kaiserschmarrn.*

*We may have been the only Americans here but everyone was really friendly and very patient with my halting Italian.*

*After lunch, many guests took time to relax and enjoy the splendid views from Monte Pana before hiking back to Ortesei.* *A shuttle bus was also available.*

*Alpacas! We passed a farm with these friendly animals on our hike back to Ortesei after a fun afternoon BBQ.*

We also learned the basics of Nordic trekking in the Val D’Anna with a small group from the Adler and returned to the area on our own a few times.

*If you’re hiking on your own, it’s handy to have Alltrails downloaded on your phone.*

According to Alltrails.com, there are 54 hiking trails, 34 backpacking trails and 17 mountain biking trails in the Val Gardena. If you are setting out on your own, be sure to research current weather conditions (mountain weather can change quickly), difficulty of the hike, and bring necessary provisions with you.

Afternoons at the Adler include Aufguss. Different essences and music are pumped into the sauna for about 15 minutes for a super heated wellness experience led by an Aufgussmeister. Modesty note- swimsuits are not permitted in the saunas.

We spent every day outdoors knowing that the Adler’s amazing spa awaited us after our exertions. The big decision was whether to swim, sauna, take a class or just relax with a book.

*Not pointing a finger at my husband, but I did hear some snoring during the very relaxing Tibetan sound bath!*

We treated ourselves to a few well-deserved massages and enjoyed new to us experiences like the Tibetan Sound Baths and the relaxing salt grotto. Be sure to book some time for this semi-private therapeutic experience where you’ll float blissfully in an underground pool surrounded by salt walls.

*Our friend Mario and his wife have been coming to the Adler for 25 years!* *We met at dinner our first night and hiked together many times during the week.*

Many of the Italian and Austrian guests we’ve met return to the Adler annually. One couple from Bergamo have been coming for 25 years! We met one other American couple during our stay who were also returning guests. What a surprise to learn they were from San Diego, too! We hiked most days with the same small group of guests and formed friendships we know will last far longer than the vacation.

*Happy hikers! We’ve already booked our return to the Adler for next fall!*

*You won’t find scenery like this anywhere else. Go discover the Dolomites for yourself!*

The exquisite beauty of the mountains, our new friendships, and the Adler’s outstanding hospitality will bring us back to Ortesei. In fact, we’ve just finished booking our next visit and I’ll bet once you’ve experienced the Val Gardena and the dazzling Dolomites, you’ll return time and again, too!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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California’s High Desert Gem: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Sculpture Museum

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US copyright laws.

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