After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales and finally, it was the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!
What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?
Nakalele
The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.
The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!
Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.
Park on the shoulder.There’s no official parking area here.
There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.
If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.
The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery.
We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!
Beware the Blowhole
Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.
These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.
You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.
Stay safe and stay clear of the blowhole even when it isn’t active.
Safety First!
This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.
Heed the sign!
The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.
You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.
We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.
Beachtime
We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.
Enjoy the beautiful coastline as you make your way down Maui’s winding roads.
At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.
Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.
D.T. Fleming Beach
D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!
Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.
The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.
Bring your own chairs and picnic lunch. Services can be limited on many beaches.
We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.
The surf was rough and the lifeguards were busy!
After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.
This monument marksan ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.
Take a Hike
The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.
The going got rough, and slippery, the further out on the point we ventured.
The scenery was breathtaking from Makaluapuna Point.
Dragon’s Teeth
The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!
Take time to walk the labyrinth and reflect.
There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.
Enjoy nature’s sculpture!
The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?
Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!
Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage. During a visit to Palm Springs for Modernism Week I ventured behind the walls and discovered Sunnylands.
Tours of Sunnylands were among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 11-day celebration of all things midcentury Modern. I couldn’t resist a visit to the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife, Leonore.
The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Some History
Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.
The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is the fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones. It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front doors of the historic main house open onto the spectacular great room. Pink marble floors, prolific plantings, and an outstanding art collection await visitors. Rodin’s Eve, surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads, will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium. There are exquisite midcentury furnishings and stunning panoramic desert views.
Art Price’s Birds of Welcome, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greets visitors to Sunnylands.
Inside Sunnylands
Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate. You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos.
The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Yellow, Pink, and Green
The stunning dining room, living room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour. Don’t miss their breakfast china. They both had their own pattern.
Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters. Mrs. Annenberg modified these after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94. The color-themed guest rooms, all in her favorite colors of yellow, pink and green, are also on the house tour.
Comfortable guest rooms were color-themed and included Mrs. Annenberg’s favorites– yellow, green and pink. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood. She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.
Masterpieces
The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions. Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.
This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.
Playtime
The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012. That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.
Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. The private nine-hole golf course enjoyed by celebrities and world leaders is in the distance.
Famous Guests
Sunnylands’ guest list is as impressive as the property. The Annenbergs welcomed eight U.S. Presidents among the notable visitors to their desert oasis. Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.
President and Mrs. Reagan were good friends of the Annenbergs and frequent visitors to Sunnylands. Mr. Reagan was one of eight U.S. Presidents to have enjoyed their hospitality. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Ronald Reagan was good friend of the Annenbergs and frequent guest as President and before that as Governor of California. Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years.
U.S. Presidents
Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice, JellyBelly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands. Fun fact; the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!
The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite and color-coordinated jellybeans were always on hand. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Richard Nixon, was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent visitor before, during and after his presidency. He spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.
President George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided.
President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate. He preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the well-stocked lake for early morning angling.
President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.
Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands. President Obama was a three-time visitor. He met with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate. The “Sunnylands Declaration” resulted from the meeting.
President Obama and Chinese President Xi Jinping were photographed strolling near the reflection pool shown here.
Welcoming World Leaders
Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE). It’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth IIPrince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands.
Weddings and Celebrations
It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party.
Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list. Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display throughout the home.
Bookall tours except the Open Air Experience in advance, online.
The historic main house can only be visited by guided tour. Tours must be booked online, typically one month in advance. Access is limited so Historic House Tour slots fill quickly. Plan ahead! This is the only tour that provides access to the home.
Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking. Children under 10 are not permitted. Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house.
Channel your inner Hollywood icon and imagine yourself preparing for a dip in the pool with some of the Annenbergs’ famous friends like Frank Sinatra. He was married at the estate.
Sunnyland’s Open Air Experience
There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more.
Sustainability
The Sunnylands Foundation is committed to sustainability. Steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens. Unlike the other tours, it does not require prior reservations.
Birding tours on the Estate are also available and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.
The Sunnylands Center and Gardens are open to the public free of charge.
Visit the Gardens for Free
There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly. Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.
Enjoy the gardens while having a snack or light meal at the cafe.
Sunnylands Center and Gardens are family-friendly, though the tours do have age limits.
There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack. Enjoy indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden. We watched families playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.
Meandering paths take visitors through the Sunnylands Gardens featuring more than 70 native and drought-tolerant species.
The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools, a and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked. Surely, this adds to the enjoyment of amateur botanists.
Visitors can walk the labyrinth and enjoy quiet meditation at Sunnylands Gardens.
If You Go
Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns. The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here. Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.
This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.
Heading to Rome? You won’t be alone. Last year, the Eternal City expected to host 35 million visitors, up from 13 million in 2024. It was a Jubilee Year in the Catholic Church—a celebration with events and activities throughout the year and a new, American Pope. The Jubilee is over but it will still be very crowded in Rome and prices for everything will be high. Go anyway.
To help you keep costs down while still enjoying the magic of Rome, I’ve put together a list of some of my favorite free (and almost free) things to do in the Eternal City.
Visit the Vatican
You must visit St. Peter’s Basilica at least once.
Yes, there will be crowds, but how can you visit Rome and not see St. Peter’s? Entry to the Basilica and crypt is always free and tickets are not required. Lines are shorter early in the morning but there are always lines. You can also attend mass at St. Peter’s but be on time and dress appropriately. Shoulders and knees must be covered or you’ll risk being denied entry.
The Basilica is closed during the Pope’s Wednesday public audience until 1 p.m. The Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museums and Gardens are not free, but it is worth it. Order tickets now for a summer visit if you haven’t already!
The Pope speaks from his balcony every Sunday but you could get lucky and see him in St. Peter’s Square.Thousands of people attend the free, weekly Papal Audiences.
Every Wednesday morning (except in July and important Church feast days) the Pope holds a general audience for thousands of well-wishers either outside in the piazza in front of St. Peter’s or in the nearby auditorium. Tickets are free. Write to the Pontifical North American College pnac.org no later than two weeks before you’d like to attend, but as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.
Papal Audience Tickets
Collect your tickets in person at PNAC offices near the Piazza Navona on the Tuesday before your visit. Newlyweds can apply to sit in the special Sposi Novelli section near the Holy Father. The audience is general seating but try to get an aisle seat for the best chance of an encounter with the Pope.
Be warned, it was chaotic when we went to an audience in the auditorium. People were clambering over chairs (and other people) to try to shake the Pope’s hand. Go early as you will have to pass through security.
Take a Walk in Rome’s Borghese Gardens
Rome’s Borghese Gardens are full of fountains, sculpture and plenty of places to sit and relax.
Located at the top of the Via Veneto, these beautiful gardens are to Rome what Central Park is to New York City. Once the private parklands of the powerful Borghese family, they’ve been open to the public since 1903. There are fountains, sculptures, and the Orolgio al Aqua del Pincio—a water powered clock from 1867 that’s still ticking along!
This water-powered clock has been keeping time since 1867.
Bring a picnic and enjoy the views over the lagoon or pick a bench and people watch—it’s the perfect place for it. There’s a dog park, playing fields, even a riding rink where you can admire the equestrian skills of riders putting their horses through their paces.
Enjoy the peaceful setting.Horses are welcome here.Bring a little extra for new friends.
So Much to Do
There are plenty of things to do in the Gardens of the Villa Borghese. Or you can just relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. Weekends are busy with families out enjoying the day and sometimes there are special events in the park. We came across a chocolate festival on a visit here. Very tasty!
Rent a bike, a trike or a boat in the Borghese Gardens for more family fun.
For a small fee, you can rent a boat, a bicycle or a kart, or ride the carousel. The world-renowned Galleria Borghese is here, too, galeriaborghese.beniculturi.it with its collection of works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Titian and other masters. The museum has a private sculpture garden, too. It is not free but absolutely worth a visit and must be booked in advance online.
The Museo Canonica is one of the eight free City of Rome Museums.
The Pietro Canonica Museum museocanonica.it/en which features the sculptor’s work, is also in the park and because it is a City of Rome Museum, is free.
Art, Archeology, and History for Free
Rome’s free city museums feature fine art, antiquities, fossils and ancient artifacts.
The City of Rome’s eight free museums are sure to delight and entertain most visitors. These small museums present everything from fine art to fossils, and ancient Egyptian artifacts to Napoleonic family heirlooms. They each focus on a specific area.
The Napoleonic Museum is free and worth a visit to see the Bonaparte family’s art and personal belongings, many with historical relevance.
In no particular order, the free Comune di Roma Museums include: Napoleonic Museum (a grand palazzo with art and belongings from generations of the Bonaparte family), Museo delle Mura (archeology museum inside the Aurelian Walls), Pietro Canonica Museum (the sculptor’s works exhibited in “the little fortress”–his home and studio), Casal de’ Pazzi Museum (archeology), Carlo Bilotti Museum (contemporary art), Museo della Memoria Garibaldina (Italian history), Giovanni Barracco Museum (ancient Middle Eastern arts and artifacts and Classical Greek sculpture), and Villa Massenzio (Imperial Roman villa on the Appia Antica).
You’ll rarely fight crowds at Rome’s smaller, less known museums.
Visit museiincomuneroma.it for details on each of these small treasure- filled museums. Not only are they free, but in my experience, and I’ve visited almost all of them, they are rarely crowded.
Explore Rome’s Neighborhoods
Leave the center of the city and explore Rome’s vibrant and interesting neighborhoods.
There is a lot more to explore in Rome than the Centro Storica, the city’s historic center, though of course you’ll spend time there, especially if this is your first visit. Head out to the upscale Nomentana neighborhood and enjoy another lovely park at the Villa Torlonia museivillatorlonia.it/en.
The gardens surrounding the Villa Torlonia are open to the public and one of the few “English” gardens in Rome.
This is one of the few sprawling English-style gardens in Rome and it is free to enter. We have seen yoga classes, kids playing soccer, picnickers, and people just relaxing in this lovely green space. There are also sculptures and a grand obelisk in the park to enjoy.
You can visit the Villa Torlonia, Mussolini’s former home, for free on the first Sunday of the month as part of the Domenica al Museo program.
Mussolini Lived Here
Mussolini and his family made their home at the Villa Torlonia from 1925-1943. He rented the VIlla for one lira a year, which is less than you’ll pay to enter the Villa, now a museum. The ticket also includes entry to the Little Owl House and a contemporary art gallery on the grounds. Mussolini’s underground bunker requires a separate ticket and has more limited hours.
The art-filled Casa delle Civette is included with admission to the Museo Villa Torlonia.
After your visit to the park and villa, go around the corner to my favorite gelateria- Guttilla Alta Gelateria. It’s not free but costs less than five euro for a three-scoop cone topped with panna (cream) and a cookie!
Take a break and enjoy a gelato!
There are many neighborhoods outside the city center that all have something enriching to offer from markets to museums. Rome’s public transportation system is inexpensive and makes it easy to get around. We use it frequently, especially when we want to visit a more far flung location like Cine Citta, which while not free, I highly recommend if you’d like to do something completely different on your Roman holiday.
Unless you’re traveling at rush hour (and why would you?) buses and subways are convenient, affordable, and not terribly crowded.
Have a Wander
The 19th century Galerie Sciarra is one of Rome’s “hidden” treasures. FInd it on Via Marco Minghetti.
Wandering Rome’s cobbled streets is one of the great free pleasures of a visit here. You never know what you’ll find as you explore the streets of this beautiful city. We discovered this gorgeous frescoed late 19th galleria completely by accident. On a walk one afternoon we came up a college graduation (champagne corks popping) near the Colosseum, nuns and gladiators on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, and heard an impromptu acappella concert in a park as we made our way to the Scuderie del Quirinale.
We walked by a college graduation celebration with champagne, laurel crowns and happy families.Nuns and gladiators meet on the bridge leading to the CastelSant’ Angelo.We enjoyed a free, impromptu concert in a park.
Treasures at Every Turn
Stroll around the Jewish Quarter or the Trastevere, which means across the Tiber. The Flaminia neighborhood has plenty of shops and a great contemporary art museum– MAXXI italia.it/en/lazio/rome/maxxi-museum. It’s free on the first Sunday of the month, as are many of the Musei di Comune di Roma that typically require tickets, including the Centrale Montemartini where you’ll find classic sculpture displayed in Rome’s first power plant, and the MACRO satellite with its multimedia and contemporary art. Both are in outlying neighborhoods, respectively in Ostiense and the Testaccio, a former slaughterhouse area that’s now home to top restaurants, local markets and museums, of course.
Free First Sundays in Museums
The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art is part of the Sunday at the Museum Program.
For a complete list of museums, monuments and sites that participate in Domenica al Museo, the free on first Sundays program, visit cultura.gov.it but be aware that special exhibitions will still require a paid ticket. A MIC pass will give you further discounts for ticketed museums and special exhibits, if you are eligible for it.
The Swiss Institute
The Swiss Institute, housed in a stunning early 20th century palazzo, often hosts free contemporary art exhibitions that change regularly, lectures and other events.
Take time to visit the gardens at the Swiss Institute.We saw a contemporary art exhibit when we visited.
The gardens are spectacular, too. Check out current offerings here.
Pick a Piazzaand Drink Up!
Rome’s Piazza Navona is one of the city’s best known squares and home to museums, churches and restaurants as well as the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (four rivers).
From the popular Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori to small, tucked away piazzetti, you’ll stumble upon plenty of places to ponder and people watch across the city. You’ll also find public fountains everywhere–usually good places to sit and relax a bit. There are 2,500 fountains within the city of Rome according to several sources.
The Piazetta di Vicolo di San Simeone is one of the many small piazzas throughout the city. The Taverna Agape here is good for a casual meal.
Coffee Culture
Wherever you find a piazza or piazzetta, there’s almost always a bar nearby for a quick espresso. Drink it standing up like the locals do, and if you stop into a popular place like Sant’ Eustachio, be ready to order or they’ll pass you by. An espresso is still only a few euro in most places. Remember, everything costs more if you sit at a table than if you stand at the bar and no milky drinks after breakfast please.
The Fountain of the Porter dates back to 1580.
Fun fact–Rome’s drinking fountains are often called “nasoni” because many are shaped like big noses. And yes, the water is safe to drink in all Roman fountains, so bring your water bottle and fill it up. It’s free.
See the Roman Forum for Free
The Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most iconic modern structures.
Often called the “wedding cake” or the “typewriter”, the Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most recognizable modern structures. Located in the busy Piazza Venezia, it honors Italy’s first king and the unification of the country. Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is here.
Climb the white marble steps and head to the rear of the Altare della Patria–you’ll have a splendid view over the Forum for free. Do not sit on the stairs. You can take a glass elevator to the very top for even better views for a small fee. The ticket includes access to the Museum of the Risorgimento inside the monument and an audio guide.
The Imperial Forum and the Colosseum are not free but participate in the Domenica al Museo program (first Sundays free) but lines will be very long. An Architectural Pass or Roma Pass help save money and skip the long lines.
Window Shop
Can you resist the temptations of the Via Condotti?
It costs nothing to admire the designer goods and fabulous fashions on display in the windows along the Via Condotti and Via del Babuino–if you can resist the temptation of Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and other fashionista favorites. Via del Corso has lots of shopping, too, at a more affordable price point.
Clever window displays always draw a crowd.
If you’re looking to do more than admire the window displays, head over to the Via del Corso for more affordable shopping. Visit the Rinascente, Italy’s premier department store. Take a walk down the Via Tritone to find it. Check out the views from their rooftop bar/cafe.
The Spanish Steps
Sooner or later, everyone stops by the Spanish Steps. Please do not sit down.
It’s always free to walk up and down the Spanish Steps but do not sit down or you will risk a sizable fine. Head up the steps to Trinita dei Monti and enjoy the beautiful church and the views towards St. Peter’s Basilica. At the bottom of the stairs is the Fontana della Baraccia, Via del Corso, and the famous Via Condotti for upscale shopping
Cozy Up to Cats
It’s hard to see them in this photo, but plenty of cats call Rome’s Largo di Argentina home.
The Cat Sanctuary at Largo di Argentina is home to hundreds of feral felines that are fed, vaccinated, neutered, and adopted out by a legion of volunteers. The sanctuary, which was nearly evicted from these ancient Roman ruins in 2012, is free to visit but depends upon donations to continue its work. Stop by to admire the ancient Roman foundations and watch the kitties at play. Give them a few euro while you’re there.
More Free Art
Step inside Rome’s “identical” churches to enjoy the art and see how different they actually are.
Rome’s artistic treasures aren’t all in museums. Even some of the city’s smaller churches have amazing art which we’ve discovered by stopping into many that looked interesting to us. We’ve seen incredible sculpture, paintings, frescoes and tapestries by the great masters, simply by chance.
This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.Check out the ancient Aurelian Walls.There’s always something happening in the Piazza del Popolo.
Piazza del Popolo
For another cultural treat, head over to the Piazza del Popolo. There’s always something entertaining going on there and it is also home to Rome’s so-called twin churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto. The baroque exteriors are quite similar, but once inside you’ll see that though beautiful, the churches are not at all identical.
You can pay one euro each to illuminate Caravaggio’s spectacular Conversion of Saint Paul and Crucifixion of St. Peter. Both are in the north transept of the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo.
Closer to the Aurelian Walls near the Fountain of Neptune and the Goddess of Rome Fountain, you’ll find the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo. The church has two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces along with works by other artists including Bernini and Raphael, and frescoes by Pinturicchio. Make it a point to visit here.
Visit Rome’s Official Cathedral. Hint: It is Not St. Peter’s!
Last year the Basilica of San Giovanni di Laterano celebrated its 1700th anniversary. It is one of the most important in Rome, the oldest in Europe and the only archbasilica in the world. It serves as the seat of the bishop of Rome aka, the Pope, and is the official Cathedral of Rome, not St. Peter’s. The Altar of the Holy Sacrament contains a table said to be used at the Last Supper.
After your visit, cross the plaza and climb the Scala Santa or sacred steps. This wood- encased marble staircase is believed to have been brought from the home of Pontius Pilate by St. Helene, Emperor Constantine’s mother. Pilgrims climb the 28 steps on their knees in a display of piety, and historically, to seek indulgence– the fast track to heaven. Important relics are kept here including fragments of the True Cross. Both St. John’s and the Pontifical Shrine of the Holy Stairs are free. Appropriate dress is required and no photos are allowed here.
Savor the Sunset
The Pincio Terrazzo overlooking the Piazza del Poppolo is the perfect spot to watch the sun setting over St. Peter’s dome.
One of the best and most popular places to view the setting sun in Rome is the Pincio Terrace in the Borghese Gardens overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. Locals and tourists stand shoulder to shoulder, waiting for the magic moment, oohing and aahing in languages from all over the world. It is the perfect way to end the day in this always enchanting and often surprising city.
You’ll have plenty of company on the Pincio Terrace watching the sunset.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of free things to do in Rome but will get you started. Have fun and share your discoveries with us in your comments or by email!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
All materials published by traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express consent.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you, and I promise not to spend it all on gelato. Thank you!
Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually. Last year, a jubilee year in the Catholic Church, was a record-breaker for tourism with nearly 23 million visitors and almost 53 million overnight stays.
Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseumand both boast more than 4 million each year. If this is your first time visiting, you’ll understandably want to see both. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?
The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.
Get a Pass
The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums.
The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian,Crypta Balbi,Palazzo Massimo,Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days.
Roma Pass
The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.
The Baths of Diocletian are just across the busy Piazza Repubblica near Rome’s main train station Stazione Termini.
We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.
The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.
We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.
This museum should be on your list even without a special exhibit. Built in the 4th century, these are the largest and among the best preserved of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. The Baths are easy to reach. They are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s main train station—Roma Termini.
Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.
A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.
Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.
If you happen to visit the in the evening, walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light. It’s a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.
The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.
Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli
In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.
The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.
This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.
National Roman Museum
Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.
Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.
Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.
We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!
Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.
Near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll findthe stunning Palazzo Massimoalle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.
Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.
Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.
These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.
This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.
These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.
Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.
The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.
The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.
Palazzo Altemps
This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.
Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.
Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.
The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.
The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.
Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.
The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.
Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.
Dragon Collection
The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.
The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.
Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.
Crypta Balbi
Crypta Balbi’s excavations show how Rome developed from antiquity through the 20th century, building layer upon layer from its ancient beginnings.
You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.
The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.
Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.
Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.
Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31.
Largo di Torre Argentina
Just around the corner from Crypta Balbi is the Largo di Torre Argentina. Here’s where you’ll find more interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point. Donations are welcome at the non-profit sanctuary, even if you aren’t interested in a new feline family member.
The Largo di Torre Argentina is home to ancient Roman ruins and a cat sanctuary.
An Ancient Architectural Wonder
Don’t miss the Pantheon. It’s one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.
The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures. It has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. Tickets are 5 Euro and available online and onsite. Be prepared to wait if you haven’t purchased in advance.
Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.
We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.
Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.
The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.
Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.
After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.
Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.
Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando AlPantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Reservations are essential as it’s popular with locals and tourists.
The Colosseum
If you’ve never visited Rome before, you’ll need to brave the crowds and see the Colosseum.
I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forumand Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without, just look for the signs. Note: You do not need a guide to enter. Beware of unscrupulous people hanging around outside who will tell you otherwise. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.
Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.
There are rules, though apparently not always observed.
You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade. Wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.
The Forum
The Forum tempts the imagination with incredible Imperial Roman ruins.
The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.
Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.
Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.
Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.
Lunchtime or La Pranza
All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at 40, Largo Ricci. While we expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites, we were pleasantly surprised by both the quality of the meal and the price.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.
Head Out of Town
Take a trip just outside the city to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea. Now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded.
We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with interior wall paintings still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.
These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.
PS If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations near the historic center or want to know where to go for gelato, reach out!
If You Go
We usually stay at the Grand Flora, a wonderful historic hotel near the Borghese Gardens at the top of the Via Veneto. They have a marvelous rooftop with views over the city where breakfast is served. It’s fun to get a drink in the bar and bring it upstairs for sunset. Watch the lights go on at St. Peter’s as the sun goes down.
Public transportation is inexpensive and easy to use. Buses, trams and subways will take you to the far reaches of the city. You don’t need a car in Rome and driving can be chaotic. Parking is expensive. Be aware of pickpockets on public transportation, as you would in any large city. Taxis and Ubers are also convenient and easy to use. Be sure to use only licensed taxis– they’re usually white.
There are so many enchanting places to explore in Rome. Use the links below to get the most updated information about some of the places mentioned in this article:
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We can’t help with the weather, crowds and unexpected events vying to take a toll on your fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your adventures better and much more fun whenever and where ever you go!
Check Your Documents
Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!
You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Renew it today if it’s not valid for at least six months from your scheduled return date and be prepared to pay to expedite this. If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process. Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.
Are You a Trusted Traveler?
Save time and stress at the airport. Sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport has free “security reservations” allowing you to book a time to pass through security lines.
Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!
Include your “known traveler” number in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile. Enroll today if you haven’t already.
Back Up Plan
Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WiFi isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear. Print your boarding passes. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.
Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.
Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone. Make color copies of these documents. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor.
If Your Passport is Lost or Stolen
This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen. Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London, both when we filed the mandatory police report and at the US Embassy.
London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.
Be sure to have replacement photos correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than the US does. We made this mistake and it was costly and time consuming to go back for photos a second time.
Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!
We use Google Maps everywhere. GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access maps we thought we downloaded while on WiFi. We wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us on a dirt tract while looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon. Bring paper maps as a backup.
Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!
Get the App
Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.
Driving
If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.
To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.
Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. You’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP), to drive in Europe and elsewhere overseas.
Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.
Get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA). Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you. You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos. The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.
You Need a What?
Some countries like Austria and Slovenia require a vignette to drive in their country. You purchase these just before crossing the border, usually at a rest stop or gas station. There will be signs. Most vignettes are digital now and register your license plate for a certain number of days, but there are still some places that sell a sticker you’ll need to affix to your windshield. Rental car companies typically do not provide these and you can be pulled over and fined if you haven’t gotten a vignette.
Book Your Rental Car Early
For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.
Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels. Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book. Double check prices several times including right before you leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals. Do the same with hotels. We have had good luck with Auto Slash. It’s a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.
Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.
Examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.
Car Services
Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.
Take the Train
Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville, Spain since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid.
If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car, but in this case, we didn’t. Even though we weren’t driving in the cities we visited, we still had to pay the rental and the garage fees and they added it up, believe me!
If you’re mostly traveling in cities, take the train.
Use Train Apps
Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.
Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.
Most European countries have their own rail line. There’s SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps to buy tickets and select seats. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer weekends and holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.
Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.
Validate
Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!
Join Hotel Loyalty Programs
Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP, before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.
Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!
If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores. These are lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress. If you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.
It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!
Create an Itinerary
Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), tours, and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.
First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome.Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.
This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.
Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.
Take Time to Relax
A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything. Take your time and focus on a few highlights.
Bring the Right Credit Cards
Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.
Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.
Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.
We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!
Cash is Not King But You’ll Need Some
There are certain things you have to pay cash for.A bus ticket from Amalfi to Ravello is one of them.
You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all. There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere. We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one. You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific. Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet which is not that unusual in Europe.
The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.
On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency. You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM.
ATMs
Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees. When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice. When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately, just like at home. Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.
There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.
Buy Travel Insurance
Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.
No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen; from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse. Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry. Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance.
Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!
We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation. Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.
No Bad Weather
There’s an old saying, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe choices.” You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece.
Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.
As the saying goes, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe decisions.” Be prepared!
Packing Tips
Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.
Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.
If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself. Bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts. It’s considered disrespectful in many cultures and you don’t want to miss out.
An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.
Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling. You can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products you think you need at home and pick up your basics overseas. There are Sephoras in most cities and well-stocked pharmacies everywhere for everything from shampoo to shaving cream. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.
Don’t Check Luggage
Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer and holiday travel seasons. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it. Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees.
Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!
Save time and money– go carry-on!You don’t want to drag big bags around.
The Dreaded Gate Check
Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag. Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on. European rules are different and you’ll have to hand it over.
Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack. These are considered “personal items” and must fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.
Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.
Check Your Airline
Always check your airline’s requirements. Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible. Prices go up as departure time nears.
Cancel Deliveries
You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..…while you’re enjoying the world!
If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who allow you to donate your papers to local schools. Or have your account credited for days you are away, just don’t let them pile up on the driveway. Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too. The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return.
Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway. They can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.
Some Final Advice
You’re all set. Your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.
Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!
Here’s some final advice before you go: To really enjoy your travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp. Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines, and meeting new people. Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired, after all it is your vacation. Now go see the world and have some fun!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Lawsand may not be reproduced without express permission.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on gelato. Thank you for your support!
Packing for any trip, a weekend in wine country, a month in Europe, or something in between used to be second nature for me, but my skills got rusty during the pandemic. Thankfully, that’s way behind us. I’ve had lots of trips and plenty of practice packing light since then.
Here’s how NOT to pack! What do they have in those big bags? And why?
I just got back from five weeks in Europe with only a carry-on roller bag and one personal item. If I can do it, so can you. Here’s how to to get organized and travel lightly on your next adventure.
These are my bags– for a five-week trip to Europe.
Get Organized
Waiting until the last minute to pack means tossing stuff I don’t need into my bag and not bringing the things I do. Make a list or download one from one of the many online sites that offer them free. Do a preliminary pack about a week before you’re leaving and finalize right before you go. This goes for your suitcase (you won’t be checking it) and your one allowable personal item. Mine is a tote that carries a small purse, laptop and essentials like travel documents and medications. Like jewelry and other valuables, these are things you should never, ever check.
Light layers took me comfortably from hiking in the Dolomites…
Check the Weather
Unless you’re traveling in mid-winter, you’ll want to pack light layers. We stayed in a castle in Tuscany, went hiking in the Dolomites, wine tasting in Friuli, explored small cities in the Marche, spent time at the seaside in Abruzzo, and revisited the eternal city.
…to the Adriatic seaside, and lots of places in between.
The weather was very different in each of these places, but by taking layers, my five-week wardrobe fit nicely in my carry- on, thanks to packing cubes. I had the appropriate clothes for all the weather we encountered.
Take Half the Clothes and Twice the Money
That’s travel advice someone shared with me years ago and I still take it to heart. Chances are you’re going to be moving from one destination to another and seeing different people in all of those places. No one will know you’ve worn that outfit five times already. People everywhere dress much more casually than they used to– keep that in mind as you select your travel wardrobe.
Choose clothes you’re comfortable in. A trip abroad is not the time to discover your pants are too tight. If you’re like me, you may even add a few pounds on your travels so clothes that fit a little more loosely at the start of the trip is a good thing.
Leave Them Behind
I often bring a few things that are nearly ready for the donation bin, wear them a few last times and leave them behind. Now there’s more room for purchases in my bag.
Neutrals are always appropriate. Use accessories to change your look.
Choose Neutrals
Pick black, white, camel, gray or navy as your base to create a “capsule wardrobe,” which means everything goes with everything else. Use accessories for a pop of color (I love scarves) and to change up your look. Remember the 3:1 rule, pack three tops for every bottom. Lay out whatever you think you need and then put at least one third of it back in the closet. You don’t need it—trust me.
What Are You Doing?
Consider the activities you have planned. Your wardrobe for hiking in the Italian Alps is going to look a lot different than a theater-going marathon in London. Obviously, you’ll want performance fabrics for athletic endeavors. Choose natural fabrics, think cotton and silk, that will keep you comfortable for everything else. Merino wool works for most of the year and linen can’t be beat for hot summer days. Separates will provide much more flexibility than dresses or jumpsuits, but I always bring a dress, just in case I am going to the theater after a hike in the mountains.
Some trips include all kinds of activities and events. We went from mountain hikes in the Dolomites to concerts in Salzburg and Vienna!
Nice trousers, a button down shirt and a sweater will be fine for a night at the theater for men, though many we saw at classical concerts last fall in Vienna and Salzburg were in suits.
People dress much more casually than they used to, even on a Saturday night in Rome.
The Shoe Dilemma
You do not need five pairs of shoes. Bring comfortable flats that can also go out to dinner, walking shoes or sneakers for daytime, and sandals or flip flops (good as slippers, too) if you’re headed to a sunny locale. Three pairs is plenty and be sure they’re comfortable. Blisters will ruin that romantic Parisian stroll you planned. If you’re hiking, or going into wet/snowy weather, that’s a different story.
Wear your heaviest shoes/boots on the plane. Never bring new shoes and leave those cute heels at home! Streets are cobbled or uneven in many destinations. Men can get by with sandals (in warm weather), walking shoes that are comfortable but dressy enough for evening out, and a good pair of sneakers.
Check out their footwear– flats and sneakers. Cobbled streets like these in Seville are more the rule than the exception.
Outer Layers
If the weather is changeable, I pack a puffer jacket and a vest (Patagonia’s nanopuff is my go-to) and a lightweight, waterproof shell with a pair of gloves and a scarf tucked in the pocket. That combination sees me through all but the coldest conditions.
Laundry
Pack for no more than a week, no matter how long you’ll be traveling. Wash lighter things in the bathroom sink in your hotel. Bring inflatable hangers and a few plastic clothes pins (also good for keeping drapes closed) — and use hotel shampoo as laundry soap.
For heavier things like pants and shirts we use Google Maps to find a fluff- and -fold cleaner with drop- off service near our lodgings. We dropped our laundry off in Kalamata and learned it was the same cleaner the hotel used, but we paid the local’s price. They even delivered our clothes back to our hotel for us.
If we can’t find a drop-off fluff and fold, we head to a laundromat.
If you’re staying in an apartment with a washer, lucky you. Don’t expect to have a clothes drier in Europe—you’ll likely have a clothesline or drying rack. That works, too.
Medication, Documents, Jewelry
Bring extra prescription medications in case your return is delayed—and these days, it easily could be. We woke up to a text announcing our flight home later that day from Madrid was cancelled. Keep medication in its original container, or to save room, get pill pouches (tiny plastic bags available at pharmacies), peel off and apply the label from your Rx bottles and you’re set. Never pack medications in your luggage. Ask your doctor for paper copies of any prescriptions you take regularly in case you need to get more abroad.
Keep passports and other documents, medications and any valuables with you at all times, not in your luggage.
Leave jewelry at home. Unless you wear it every day, don’t bring it. You don’t want your bling bringing unwanted attention.
They Sell Toothpaste Overseas
Hotels usually provide shampoo, bath gel, body lotion, soap, etc.– the basics will be waiting for you. No need to pack them.
Don’t bring every toiletry and beauty product you use at home. Stick to travel sizes of the few you must have and buy what you need when you arrive. Toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and other necessities are readily available in most places you’ll be going. Remember–those 3.4 ounce liquids must fit into a quart- sized bag. If you transit through London Heathrow you will have to go through security again, even if you are departing from the same terminal you flew into. British Airways’ “quart” bag seems a tad smaller to me and you must be able to zip the bag completely closed or risk having your products confiscated. Not sure if you can carry it on? Check TSA.
Sunny skies can change in a heartbeat. Pack light layers and an umbrella and you’ll be prepared for almost anything!
Must Haves
Take an umbrella and a swimsuit no matter where you’re going. If you unexpectedly find yourself at the seaside or it turns out your hotel has a pool, you don’t want to frantically shop for a swimsuit— a daunting proposition at the best of times. A small, foldable umbrella is great for sun protection when you’re trekking through sunbaked ruins, as well as for the rain that’s bound to fall.
We wouldn’t have wanted to miss a sunset swim at the Castello Delle Serre in Rapolano.
Go Carry On
Don’t check your bag. In the old days I used to drag along a suitcase that was nearly as big as I am. I’m not a tall person, but you get the idea. After a certain British airline lost my luggage on the way to a Mediterranean cruise, I now check a bag only under duress. I like knowing my belongings are right above me in the overhead compartment, especially if I’m making connections.
Don’t give airlines a chance to lose your bag or waste time waiting at the baggage carousel.
Reasons Not to Check Bags
I’ve heard so many horror stories about lost luggage but this is one of the worst: A friend’s luggage was recovered at London Heathrow four months after she returned from what should have been a romantic anniversary trip– everything was wet and ruined. Don’t let lost luggage ruin your trip before it even starts.
Imagine dragging these bags around Rome?
If your flight is cancelled or delayed, your chances of rebooking or going standby are much better if you haven’t checked luggage. When our flight home from Brussels was cancelled at the end of a busy Easter Week, we got the last seats on the next flight out because we had our bags with us.
While these aren’t huge bags, she’s got two of them, and a duffel, and a purse. Take at least a third of what you think you’ll need out of your bag– you don’t need it. I promise.
Use your coat as an extra carry on. Fill the pockets with small items (not liquids). Put a second jacket inside the first and put a vest or sweater in the sleeves. Make every pocket count!
If you travel with a portable medical device it does NOT count as your one allowable personal item. You can bring it aboard along with your roller bag plus your purse or backpack/tote bag. My husband has one and he takes advantage of any extra space in the device’s carry bag.
Stay Connected
Electronics need chargers and converters so be sure to pack enough for all your devices. You may also want to add an international calling/data plan to your mobile phone before you go. Use WhatsApp to stay in touch for free and use free WIFI when you can, though obviously not for sensitive information. You can also get a new SIM card at your destination(s) but be sure to let friends and family know your new phone number.
Someone recently asked me if they needed converters for their hair dryer and other styling tools. The answer is NO. You’re going to leave those things at home. Every hotel and apartment rental I’ve ever stayed in anywhere in the world has had a hair dryer.
He’s heading to the gate with just the right amount of carry-on luggage, no matter how long the journey.
Ready, Set, Pack!
Pack light. Leave valuables at home. Keep passports, medications and other hard -to -replace items with you—not in your luggage. Don’t check your bag unless you absolutely have to, and remember, if you forget something, 99 percent of the time there will be stores where you’re going. Ready, set, pack!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
This and all materials published by TravelTawk are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without permission.
This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase there is no additional charge to you but I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support!
Throughout Spain, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, known as Semana Santa or Holy Week, is one of the most important of the year. Spaniards observe Semana Santa joyously and solemnly. Each afternoon and evening from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, people, sometimes numbering in the thousands, gather in city streets and town squares. They celebrate a Catholic tradition that dates back at least to the 15th century—to the reign of the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.
The Story of the Passion
During the reign of the Catholic monarchs, as Isabella and Ferdinand were known, the population was mostly illiterate. To reach as many people as possible, they told the story of Christ’s resurrection in a way that was easily understood and that has endured for centuries, through processions.
Processions on each day of Semana Santa correspond to the story of Christ’s Passion, Death, and Resurrection with different pasos depicting specific biblical scenes from the New Testament.Here’s our experience:
In Ronda, one of Andalusia’s famous “white towns,” Jesus is shown arriving in Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday. This is the beginning of Holy Week.
500 Years of Tradition in Spain
We arrived in Madrid for the first time on a Maundy Thursday. The Thursday before Easter commemorates Christ’s Last Supper and is one of the Catholic Church’s holiest days. Though it was after 9 p.m., we were confident we’d find plenty of dinner options in a city known for dining late. Instead, we found one restaurant after another closed.
Finally, at the Bar Santa Clara, the proprietor explained most places were closed not due to the hour, but to the day. He pointed out it was Holy Week and that in Madrid people take Easter very seriously.
He said we could have “anything on toast,” but that was all they would serve that evening. We ordered everything available; cheese, tomatoes, anchovies, and ham. All on toast.
Good Friday is one of the most important days in Holy Week and the pasos and processions are fittingly elaborate. It was well after midnight when this Good Friday procession returned to Toledo’s Cathedral.
We returned to our apartment behind the Prado Museum close to midnight. Just as were getting ready for bed, our son excitedly announced that he “heard a parade”. We followed the pounding of drums and the heady scent of incense down our street towards San Jeronimo. That’s the church favored by Spain’s Royal Family. Sure enough, a candlelit procession appeared out of the dark.
Processions
We watched columns of marchers in various colored robes, faces covered, wearing tall, pointed hats. It was unsettling. Next, swaying to the music and moving slowly, came an enormous float featuring a life-sized Christ figure. The floats are called pasos.
Beneath it, we could see the strained faces of the men who somberly carried it on their shoulders. We watched until the entire procession passed into the church.
The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful in Spain, filled in minutes before the procession began.
We didn’t understand the scale of Holy Week celebrations in Spain, or their importance, until the next evening. We found ourselves caught up in enormous crowds between four different processions around the Plaza Mayor. This, we began to understand, was how they celebrate Semana Santa here. We joined in.
Sevilla is famous for its elaborate Semana Santa celebrations.
Preparing for Semana Santa
Fast forward a few years and we are in Sevilla. Though the Semana Santa festivities won’t begin for another week, preparations are well underway. Colorful banners hang from balconies lining the procession routes that crisscross the city.
Workers erect barricades and set up chairs and bleachers in key locations for those privileged few with tickets. Most onlookers crowd streets and sidewalks waiting and watching for the story of the Passion of the Christ to unfold, as it has for 500 years or more.
Every detail on the pasos must be perfect. At the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador in Sevilla, members of the cofradia work together to ready their pasos for Holy Week.
Meanwhile, cofradias (also called hermandades) or brotherhoods, are busy in parishes everywhere, painstakingly assembling the lavish pasos. These floats are beautiful works of art. Each features biblical scenes that tell the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection from the New Testament.
The Pasos
The pasos hold life-sized statues often handcrafted from wood and can include precious metals. They are laden with candles, fresh flowers, and icons. The most beautiful of these hold a single statue, the Madonna or Senora Dolarosa, the grieving mother of Christ.
The Madonna wears an elaborate cape, often hand- embroidered with gold and silver thread. She is bedecked in gleaming jewels and surrounded by candles and flowers.
Jamie is a member of the confradia at the Church of the Magdalena and one of the 35 to 45 men, called costaleros, who will carry this exquisite paso through the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week.
While the pasos are being readied, you can see them in their parishes. We spent days wandering from church to church in several cities to see these magnificent pasos up close. The exquisite detail of the pasos and the cofradias careful handiwork is even more spectacular up close.
We talked with Jamie, a member of the brotherhood at the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalene in Sevilla. He is one of the paso bearers. They are called costaleros and carry the pasos through Sevilla’s cobbled streets. Sometimes for up to six hours.
He told us some pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds and take between 35 to 45 men to carry. Only women carry the paso of the Holy Mother in some parishes, as we saw in several processions in Salamanca.
Pasos, like this one at the Monastery of San Juan do los Reyes in Toledo, are on display in churches during Holy week. Visiting different parishes gives you the chance to admire the careful craftsmanship that goes into these spectacular floats up close.
How it Begins
Shortly before a procession begins, the sidewalks and streets swell with families who seem to appear from nowhere. A carnival-like atmosphere prevails. There are street vendors selling sweets and snacks, drinks, balloons, tiny penitent figures and other souvenirs.
Soon, the incense smoke thickens, music starts, and the excitement in the air is palpable. Fathers hoist their young children onto their shoulders, and everyone crowds closer and often right into the street where the procession will pass.
Who Marches
Some processions have only drummers; most have full marching bands, and sometimes participants sing or chant. Depending on the size and importance of a brotherhood, parish, and the day in Holy Week, there will be numerous pasos in a single procession.
People fill the streets and vendors with balloons, toys, sweets and drinks create a carnival-like atmosphere before and after Semana Santa processions.
Embroidered banners announce the cofradias; a priest with a silver cross leads children carrying incense or lanterns. Nazarenos in their colored robes, faces covered by capuz or hoods, and hats called capirote pointing high to the heavens, follow. These are the penitents.
Then there are the Mujeres de la Mantilla. These ladies dress all in black, from their lacey veils to their shoes. They process silently and somberly, carrying candles and rosary beads.
Everywhere in Spain, men, women and children march slowly through the streets during Semana Santa’s processions, each with a role to play in this ancient ritual.
Young, old, believers or not, everyone crowds onto Spanish streets, like this one in Granada, to watch the traditional processions that mark Semana Santa.
It’s Emotional
It is magical and emotional to be a part of this. Many people cry silently with tears streaming down their faces, some sob violently. Others cheer and clap, or watch quietly, as the exquisite pasos pass by, but there are no blank expressions. These processions touch people at the most visceral level. Finally, the pasos will re-enter the church they left from hours before. The streets empty almost as quickly as they filled.
The Senora Delarosa represents Christ’s grieving mother, the Virgin Mary. These beautiful sculptures are bedecked in jewels and exquisite garments, and surrounded with fresh flowers and candles. They usually follow the other pasos in Holy Week processions.
How to Prepare
Every city we visited during this sacred time of year has procession routes and schedules available online and/or in print. Look for the booklets in cafes, shops and bars. This is valuable information for visitors to either find or avoid the processions.
Be aware of street closures. Whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic. Even passing on foot is extremely difficult, especially during the most important processions like on Good Friday. Sevilla, Toledo, Malaga and other cities have Semana Santa apps, updated annually. Download them on your iPhone.
The Risen Christ greets onlookers from this paso at an Easter Sunday procession approaching Salamanca’s Cathedral.
We have been fortunate to celebrate Semana Santa and Easter Sunday in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, Toledo, and Salamanca. Each city offered a unique and beautiful experience. No matter which region you visit, Semana Santa is an incredible time to be in Spain. It’s not too soon to begin planning for next year.
If You Go
Be prepared for huge crowds during Semana Santa.
Streets andsometimes whole areas of a city close to traffic during Holy Week. Try not to arrive in your destination city during or right before a major procession. You may not be able to reach your hotel.
Download the Semana Santa app many cities offer or check with your hotel or the local tourist office for maps and procession times.
Make hotel reservations early for the Easter holidays. Be sure to book reservations for dinner as soon as possible. Leave plenty of time if your restaurant is anywhere near a procession route.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.
This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.
Note: This story will be updated with information from Modernism Week 2026, which just wrapped up, but in the meantime, here’s an article I wrote a few years ago about this celebration of all things midcentury.
Palm Springs. Just the thought conjures up sunny skies, swimming pools, palm trees; a picture perfect place to relax and enjoy the desert climate, perhaps with a cocktail in hand. Palm Springs is also a mecca for midcentury modern architecture, design and style.
Palm Springs shifts into high gear each February, as Midcentury Modern fans from across the globe descend on this laid-back desert community for the 11-day festival called Modernism Week. In 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shutdown hit, 162,000 attendees came to enjoy midcentury fun in the sun. I was one of them.
Bus tours, walking tours, bike tours, architectural tours, garden tours and my favorite– home tours– are all part of the fun at Modernism Week.
Modernism Week offers more than 350 events including signature home tours, films, lectures, fashion shows, bus tours, bike tours, walking tours, garden tours, parties, a vintage trailer show, art exhibitions, vintage car show, design expo, cooking demonstrations, concerts—all focused on midcentury modern design, architecture, art, and culture. Here’s a look at some of the featured homes from past Modernism Week festivals:
The collection of framed artwork above represents popular midcentury swimming pool shapes. The owl-themed wall paper in the bar area is also very much on brand in this 2020 Modernism Week featured home. This room has midcentury style in spades, from the Hockney print to the light fixture to the room divider!This midcentury office was so much fun, I’m using it as my Zoom background.Wallpaper was an important design element in the classic midcentury home. This room shows how bold wallpaper keeps the look fresh.This shagalicious sitting area screams 1960s… and that wall paper!
Part of the fun of home tours is meeting the architects, designers and the home owners who live in these wonderful spaces. Kevin and Howard are designers and the homeowners here.
Lots of desert homes have courtyards featuring brise soleil– French for “sun breaker” –to let the air in but keep the sun out. You’ll see some elaborate examples from the double decker bus tours, as well as on home tours.
As if all those tours, presentations and special events weren’t enough, last year there were opportunities to meet with landscape architects (including my friend Amelia Lima, an award- winning landscape architect), authors, designers and other experts during the event–sometimes one-on-one to help you solve your design problems indoors and out. There was even a chance for some retail therapy at the annual vintage yard sale. There’s truly something for everyone who loves the mid-century aesthetic at Modernism Week!
The always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo is a highlight for many at Modernism Week.
Shopping for vintage decor as well as brand new pieces like this cork furniture by Eugene Stotzfus is all part of the fun at the Modernism Show and Sale.
In addition to all those tours and talks, demonstrations and presentations, there are parties!
They were just putting the festive finishing touches on this home, by Christopher Kennedy, when we arrived. It’s fun to experience featured show homes in a relaxed and convivial setting.
I usually start my day at CAMP – Modernism Week’s ‘Community and Meeting Place’ and defacto headquarters for tours and events.
I like to start my day with a cup of Koffi at CAMP! Koffi has been providing complimentary coffee and tea to attendees since I’ve been coming to Modernism Week.
At CAMP, you’ll find information, complimentary coffee, a snack bar, pop-up bookstore and shop, cooking demonstrations, and swoon worthy sponsor displays from companies like Ferguson Kitchen, Bath & Lighting Gallery, Corian Design, JennAir, and Brizo. Many nights CAMP hosted live music by the Dreamboats and a happy hour. It was a great place to take a break, grab a bite and mingle.
Meet my new friends. Dressed to impress for Modernism Week, they’re here from Calgary to enjoy live music by the Dreamboats and Happy Hour at CAMP.
CAMP serves as “headquarters” for Modernism Week. Step inside for information, tickets, book and gift shop, coffee, snack bar, demonstrations and more.
Due to the ongoing pandemic and local and state requirements, Modernism Week will be different this year. The 2021 celebration will actually be two events. Organizers have announced that this year’s celebration will include an all-virtual program for the entire month of February and in person events scheduled for April 8-18.
The Modernism Week Online Experience from Feb. 1 – 28, 2021 will feature more than 20 video programs available for on demand streaming throughout the month. The April 8-18 festival in Palm Springs will include in-person events, including home and garden tours, as well as additional virtual experiences. Please visit modernismweek.com for program updates.
Charles Phoenix, the always popular midcentury modern expert and author, took us on a fabulous virtual trip to some of Palm Springs most iconic homes during October Preview Week. Photo courtesy Modernism Week.
I sampled Modernism Week’s first virtual offering during the October Preview Week event which was held all online due to Covid-19. I took a wildly entertaining virtual “ride” with Charles Phoenix, the cheeky midcentury expert and author who typically leads sold- out bus tours during Modernism Week.
Elvis Presley and his bride Priscilla spent their honeymoon at this Palm Springs Swiss Miss -style home. Modernism Week’s virtual tour takes you inside where you’ll get a peek at things like the circular electric range– high style for the times!
Mr. Phoenix is a hoot, to say the least, and led a fast- paced and informative trip around Palm Springs in his vintage ride. I “visited” numerous midcentury icons including Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s Swiss Miss honeymoon hideaway and Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House with Mr. Phoenix and loved every minute of it.
I’d seen the exterior of the Richard Neutra- designed Kaufmann House on other Modernism Week tours, but the virtual visit took viewers inside this home and many others.
I also took virtual tours of the stunning SkyFall House—yes, you might expect Mr. Bond to arrive via parachute over the pool—the fabulous Pierre Cardin House with a 1972 special Cardin edition AMC Javelin in the garage, the Edris House with its Dixiecup lighting, and the home noted midcentury architect Donald Wexler designed for his own family, along with other historic area dwellings– all thanks to a series of videos created especially for Modernism Week. I’m looking forward to February’s slate of programs!
While the virtual programming was entertaining and informative, I’m excited about the April 2021 in person programming. Organizers have announced that all activities and events are designed to meet social distancing and safety protocols per California public health requirements.
Modernism Week’s 2020 featured homes were very special, particularly properties like the Miles Bates Wave House designed by Walter S. White.
The iconic Wave House, named for its curvilinear roof, was designed by Walter S. White for Miles Bates in 1955. The building, which had fallen into disrepair and was on the auction block when we saw it in 2018, was open for touring during Modernism Week 2020. The transformation was stunning!
Here’s what Miles Bate’s Wave House looked like when we first saw it in 2018. The inside was even sadder than the exterior. Happily it was purchased and restored to its former glory by LA’s Stayner Architects. Beginning summer 2021, it will be available for events and overnight stay rentals.
Here’s a look at the cozy kitchen and living area of the Wave House, now beautifully restored.
The upcoming April events will feature signature home tours, architectural walking tours, an outdoor garden tour, a number of talks and special events, plus the always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo.
I am very excited about the return of in person home tours in April. This stunning “Mesa Modern” was a featured home in 2020.
Indoor/outdoor living is a hallmark of midcentury modern architecture. This home showcases the concept brilliantly!
Visits to Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms and the William Holden Estate are part of the 2021 program, as are outdoor neighborhood tours in Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Indian Wells; tours of the Lautner Compound; fashion events; and a vintage automobile exhibition.
Visits to historic homes like the O’Donnell House, are also a part of Modernism Week activities. I toured Ojo Del Desierto, or Eye of the Desert, as Thomas O’Donnell called his home, in 2020.
One of the O’Donnell House bedrooms features head and footboards carved with the iconic bell that marked California’s Camino Real established by Junipero Serra during the Mission period. The home is available for rentals and events.
This year there will be two outdoor tours of Sunnylands, one of my favorite places to visit in the desert and a discovery I made during Modernism Week a few years ago. There will be a shuttle tour of the exceptional landscaping around the estate and a historic walking tour of the expansive grounds.
I first discovered Sunnylands during Modernism Week several years ago and have returned to this enchanting place many times since.
The former home of media mogul Walter and Lenore Annenberg, this midcentury masterpiece has hosted eight US presidents (two of whom were close friends of the Annenbergs), royalty and international leaders, and continues to play a role in promoting world peace under the auspices of the Sunnylands Trust.
Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. There will be two outdoor tours offered during Modernism Week 2021.
When indoor tours resume, take one! You have to see the Reagan’s favorite bedroom where Mrs. Annenberg made sure to have plenty of the former President’s preferred snack—Jellybelly jelly beans that just happen to coordinate with the bed linens! You can read and see more about this desert treasure here.
Interior tours of Sunnylands are not available now due to the pandemic, but we highly recommend you take one when they return. Photography is not permitted inside the home. This image is courtesy of Sunnylands.
There are plenty of free and low-cost activities during Modernism Week. Some of the best values are the fascinating presentations given by experts in design, architecture, midcentury culture and style, and landscape design. Some of these cost as little as $10.
Some of Modernism Week’s presentations take place at the nearby Palm Springs Art Museum, like this one about Eero Saarinen.
Textile designer and social “disrupter” Marguerita Mergentime was the subject of another fascinating presentation during Modernism Week 2020.
Ticket sales support an ongoing scholarship program for Coachella Valley students embarking on an education in architecture and design. Attendees contribute to a worthwhile cause while enjoying all things midcentury modern. For more information and tickets visit Modernism Week 2021.
You’ll see the imposing peaks of the Dolomites piercing the South Tyrolean sky long before you reach them. This stunning autonomous region the Italians call Sud Tirol has been a mecca for skiers for decades, but our sights were set on autumn hiking.
The Dolomites have long been a favorite destination for skiers but these mountains are also a hiker’s heaven in summer and fall!
Our destination was Ortesei in Val Gardena, host of the 2024 Skiing World Cup and a paradise for hikers before the snow falls. We headed North from Trento in late September, with a quick stop at Cisalfa—a huge sporting goods store, to pick up warmer hiking clothes for my husband whose plans to wear shorts were thwarted by early cold temperatures. Snow was already falling high in the mountains. Florescent green fleece and hiking pants in hand, off we went to Ortesei.
The views become more spectacular as you wend your way up into the Dolomites– part of the Italian Alps.
After exiting the freeway, the winding roads become increasingly steep as you climb higher into the mountains. Austrian until after WWI when it became a part of Italy, German is the preferred language in this region where Italian and Austrian culture and cuisine mingle. Everyone we met spoke German, Italian and English (or two of the three languages) while some locals also speak Ladin, a culturally significant language particular to a this area of the Sud Tirol.
German, Italian and Ladin are the three languages spoken in this area of the Sud Tirol.
For this reason, most places have three names—Italian Ortesei is called St. Ulrich in German and Urtijei in Ladin. Along with Santa Cristina and Selva, these three towns comprise the Val Gardena.
You’ll see plenty of sheep, goats and cows as you explore the mountains in the Val Gardena.
Picture perfect, Ortesei is the largest town in the Val Gardena.
We passed storybook dwellings and plenty of cows, sheep and goats before reaching the delightful Alpine town of Ortesei. Shops specializing in locally produced high- quality carved wooden items, boutiques, art galleries, a lovely church, restaurants, cafes, and bars beckon visitors down the town’s main street—an inviting pedestrian zone.
Ortesei’s main street, a pedestrian zone, is lined with shops, restaurants, cafes and bars.
The bright yellow Hotel Adler- Dolomiti stands out in its prominent position at the top of the pedestrian zone– our home for the next 10 days.
Market day brings vendors and visitors to town. You’ll find everything from sausage to ski wear for sale!
I’d chosen the Adler Dolomiti because a stay here includes plenty of autumn activities. Daily guided hikes for varying levels of expertise and fitness, Nordic trekking, Kniepp walks, e-bike tours, Tibetan sound baths, yoga and exercise classes, a world-class spa with a new sauna pavilion, two indoor/outdoor pools, jacuzzi (with spectacular mountain views), a salt grotto, wine tastings, and gourmet dining are all on offer. It’s like the ultimate upscale sleep away camp for adults!
The guided hike to Col Raiser is spectacular and popular with Adler guests. It includes a stop at the Unesco “balcony”.
Activities, events, nightly dinner menus, spa specials, local lore and more are all in The Carpe Diem, The Adler’s daily newsletter available at breakfast in English, German and Italian. Guests can also access this information, and sign-up for activities, at info.adler-dolomiti.com.
There are activities for most levels of fitness at the Adler-Dolomiti.Staff are happy to help you select from the many offerings.
There’s a lot to do here but don’t be surprised to see guests at breakfast, in the lobby, or wandering the premises in their fluffy white Adler robes and slippers. Many people come just to relax and enjoy the spa. They don’t venture out—nor do they don street attire, except at dinner!
There’s nothing like enjoying a post-hike swim and watching the steam rise from the heated pool while snow falls in the mountains above.
Half board, which we chose and highly recommend, includes an abundant breakfast buffet with cold selections like local yogurt and cheeses, charcuterie, made to order hot items, pastries and fresh baked breads, fruit, cereals, fresh squeezed orange juice and honeycomb—the hearty breakfast every hiker needs to start the day!
The Adler kitchen can pack a picnic lunch for hungry hikers. This first day hike to Furnes gave us a chance to get to know our fellow guestsand reconnect with Alexander, who’d led us on hikes last year.
The lunch buffet is not included in half board but is available for a fee and includes hot entrees, cold items, salads, cheeses and dessert.
We chose half board which includes both an abundant breakfast buffet and gourmet dinners daily.
The dinner menu changes nightly and even after a week, there were no repeats.
Dinner starts at 7 pm with a menu that changes daily but always features a salad bar, a choice of appetizers, first courses, second courses and a very satisfying cheese selection and dessert bar. There’s also a nightly vegetarian option. You’ll have the same table and waitstaff each evening of your stay and if you don’t finish your wine, the staff will be happy to cork it and save it for your next dinner.
The weekly Tyrolean buffet included music by this gentleman who turned out to be a local cheese maker. His delicious cheeses were available that evening.
Once a week local musicians entertain diners at the Tyrolean buffet of local specialties from charcuterie to entrees, and my new favorite dessert—Kaiserschmarrn, a fluffy crepe served with a delicious berry preserve and plenty of powdered sugar. Are you hungry yet?
Kaisserschmarrn! Order this local specialty every chance you get. You’re welcome.
There’s nightly entertainment in the piano bar which is also open in the afternoon for coffee, drinks, and complimentary cakes. It’s a relaxing place to meet for a drink with your fellow guests before dining and after. Aperitivo time is part of the culture!
Part of the fun of staying at the Adler is making new friends. After a busy day, meet up in the bar for an aperitivo before dinner!
Rooms are large, airy and comfortable and many have balconies overlooking the expansive grounds– ours did. The photos on the hotel’s website adler-resorts.com are a good representation.
Here’s our room with a view! Fluffy robes and slippers, refreshing toiletries, soothing teas, water and local apples are provided.
Both times we’ve stayed we’ve had a view over the pools, the mountains beyond, and the lifts to the Alpe di Siusi—less than a 10 -minute walk from the Adler. It’s sometimes difficult to leave all this in the morning, but the mountains beckon!
Wouldn’t you love to wake up to this?The new sauna complex is just beyond the pools.
The gondola to Alpe di Siusi is just a short walk from the Adler and there is a car park if you’re just visiting for the day.
Europe’s largest alpine meadow, the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm in German and Mont Seuc in Ladin), is crisscrossed with hiking trails, handy lifts to get you up and down if you get tired of hiking, and plenty of mountain bike trails.
Hiking, biking and spectacular views bring visitors to Europe’s largest Alpine Meadow from all over the world during summer and autumn.Book a carriage ride for your sightseeing if you don’t want to hike.
The mountains in the Val Gardena are dotted with huttes– rustic restaurants where you can relax with a drink or a hearty meal. Some have a few rooms to rent.
You’ll find these rustic restaurants throughout the Dolomites. This is Sanon Hutte in the Alpe di Siusi.
A typical hutte lunch menu–hearty food is always on offer.
Part of the fun of hiking with a group from the Adler is the conviviality. We enjoyed a great group lunch at Sanon Hutte and thanks to my friend Claudia—Kaiserschmarrn for dessert! Some days we also just stopped for a coffee- during our trek or after. Lucky for us our German, Austrian and Italian friends spoke English and let me practice my Italian, too. Conversation was never lagging!
We shared lots of lunches, coffees and laughs together with our new friends.
We spent several days exploring different areas of the Alpe di Siuisi with and without guides. There are trails and loops at varying lengths and degree of difficulty and plenty of mountain biking trails– whichever you choose, the views are guaranteed to be spectacular!
Stunning scenery, like these views of the Sassolungo, make the Alpe di Siusi one of my favorite places to explore.
These are secretly the happiest cows– sorry California!
The gondola to Seceda and funicular to Resciesa are also just a 10-minute walk from the Adler- Dolomiti and will bring you to some of the most spectacular peaks in the Val Gardena.
So many choices– and they’re all amazing!
Seceda, at 8,200 feet, is part of the Odle Group and means needles in Ladin. The views are breathtaking!
You’ll feel like you’re on top of the world when you’re hiking in the Dolomites.
The modern funicular whisks you to Rescieda in minutes.
We were heading to the summit just as the clouds were lifting!
We had the trail mostly to ourselves in Resciesa.
We hiked Resciesa on our own one day and found ourselves in the clouds. The summit at Resciesa has a large cross on top– our goal. You’ll go left when you exit the funicular to hike here. There’s a hutte along the way, if you’d like to stop for a break, enjoy the views and soak up the serenity up here.
The Val Gardena has so much to offer and some of it is surprising! We visited Europe’s highest altitude rose garden in the neighboring town of Bulla, after a guided hike on a geo trail through the piney woods. Who knew there would be a beautiful rose garden here? The roses at Rosarium Uhrenhof were having their second bloom and were robust in spite of the autumn chill. Admission to the garden is free but donations are welcome.
We hiked all kinds of trails in all sorts of conditions. The hotel’s complimentary hiking poles came in very handy, especially on the downhill slopes.
The Rosarium Uhrenhof is beautful even in the rain.Our guide, Pauli, showed us some of his favorite flowers.
The Dolomiti Rose was one of our favorite blooms.
Another day, we trekked along the Way of the Cross in Selva with our guide Alexander. After a relatively flat hike, we climbed to the ruins of the Wolkenstein Castle, which is built into the mountainside. Though we couldn’t enter, we enjoyed our picnic lunch on the “terrace” with amazing views over the valley.
Nearby Selva de Gardena is home to the ruined Wolkenstein Castle.It’s difficult to see from the path below but the trail to reach it is well signed.
Not everyone in our group chose to climb the narrow, rocky trail to the castle, but we did. There’s no pressure to do more than you’re comfortable with.
The castle is built right into the mountainside– a perfect defensive position!
The interior of the castle is posted but there are benches and stone walls you can sit on. Take in the views over the Val Gardena and relax for awhile.
Our guide Alexander shared lots of history, geography and local lore on our hikes.
While we saw lots of sheep and goats on our hikes, we also had an encounter with alpacas on our hike back from the Adler BBQ– which the hotel offers weekly (weather permitting) on Monte Pana. If you stay at the Adler, sign up for the BBQ– it’s a great hike there and back and they serve a hearty, multi-course lunch of local specialties. Bonus– there’s Kaiserschmarrn for dessert!
Our chefs prepared an enormous pot of polenta, plus lots of local specialties from charcuterie to Kaiserschmarrn.
We may have been the only Americans here but everyone was really friendly and very patient with my halting Italian.
After lunch, many guests took time to relax and enjoy the splendid views from Monte Pana before hiking back to Ortesei.A shuttle bus was also available.
Alpacas! We passed a farm with these friendly animals on our hike back to Ortesei after a fun afternoon BBQ.
We also learned the basics of Nordic trekking in the Val D’Anna with a small group from the Adler and returned to the area on our own a few times.
If you’re hiking on your own, it’s handy to have Alltrails downloaded on your phone.
According to Alltrails.com, there are 54 hiking trails, 34 backpacking trails and 17 mountain biking trails in the Val Gardena. If you are setting out on your own, be sure to research current weather conditions (mountain weather can change quickly), difficulty of the hike, and bring necessary provisions with you.
Afternoons at the Adler include Aufguss. Different essences and music are pumped into the sauna for about 15 minutes for a super heated wellness experience led by an Aufgussmeister. Modesty note- swimsuits are not permitted in the saunas.
We spent every day outdoors knowing that the Adler’s amazing spa awaited us after our exertions. The big decision was whether to swim, sauna, take a class or just relax with a book.
Not pointing a finger at my husband, but I did hear some snoring during the very relaxing Tibetan sound bath!
We treated ourselves to a few well-deserved massages and enjoyed new to us experiences like the Tibetan Sound Baths and the relaxing salt grotto. Be sure to book some time for this semi-private therapeutic experience where you’ll float blissfully in an underground pool surrounded by salt walls.
Our friend Mario and his wife have been coming to the Adler for 25 years!We met at dinner our first night and hiked together many times during the week.
Many of the Italian and Austrian guests we’ve met return to the Adler annually. One couple from Bergamo have been coming for 25 years! We met one other American couple during our stay who were also returning guests. What a surprise to learn they were from San Diego, too! We hiked most days with the same small group of guests and formed friendships we know will last far longer than the vacation.
Happy hikers! We’ve already booked our return to the Adler for next fall!You won’t find scenery like this anywhere else. Go discover the Dolomites for yourself!
The exquisite beauty of the mountains, our new friendships, and the Adler’s outstanding hospitality will bring us back to Ortesei. In fact, we’ve just finished booking our next visit and I’ll bet once you’ve experienced the Val Gardena and the dazzling Dolomites, you’ll return time and again, too!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!
Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.
After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.
The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.
Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.
Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.
Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures. Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.
I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.
1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.
Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.
Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored. Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.
A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.
Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.
Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.
Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in SocialInstitutions program he initiated.
This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things. Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.
No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.
Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.
From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.
Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.
Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.
From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.
The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.
Admission is free but donations are welcome.
Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.
