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How to Have More Fun and Stress Less: Practical Travel Tips You’ll Actually Use

We can’t help with the weather, crowds and unexpected events vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your adventures better and much more fun whenever and where ever you go!

Check Your Documents

*Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!*

You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Renew it today if it’s not valid for at least six months from your scheduled return date and be prepared to pay to expedite this. If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process. Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Save time and stress at the airport. Sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport has free “security reservations” allowing you to book a time to pass through security lines.

*Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!*

Include your “known traveler” number in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile. Enroll today if you haven’t already.

Back Up Plan

Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WiFi isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear. Print your boarding passes. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.

*Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.*

Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone. Make color copies of these documents. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor.

If Your Passport is Lost or Stolen

This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen. Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London, both when we filed the mandatory police report and at the US Embassy.

*London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.*

Be sure to have replacement photos correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than the US does. We made this mistake and it was costly and time consuming to go back for photos a second time.

*Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!*

We use Google Maps everywhere. GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access maps we thought we downloaded while on WiFi. We wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us on a dirt tract while looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon. Bring paper maps as a backup.

Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!

Get the App

*Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.*

Driving

If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.

*To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.*

Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. To see what’s it’s really like to drive in other countries, check out Tripiamo‘s driving guides. You’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP), to drive in Europe and elsewhere overseas.

*Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.*

Get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA). Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you. You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos. The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.

You Need a What?

Some countries like Austria and Slovenia require a vignette to drive in their country. You purchase these just before crossing the border, usually at a rest stop or gas station. There will be signs. Most vignettes are digital now and register your license plate for a certain number of days, but there are still some places that sell a sticker you’ll need to affix to your windshield. Rental car companies typically do not provide these and you can be pulled over and fined if you haven’t gotten a vignette.

Book Your Rental Car Early

*For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.*

Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels. Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book. Double check prices several times including right before you leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals. Do the same with hotels. We have had good luck with Auto Slash. It’s a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.

*Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.*

Examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.

Car Services

Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.

Take the Train

Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville, Spain since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid.

If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car, but in this case, we didn’t. Even though we weren’t driving in the cities we visited, we still had to pay the rental and the garage fees and they added it up, believe me!

*If you’re mostly traveling in cities, take the train.*

Use Train Apps

Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.

*Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.*

Most European countries have their own rail line. There’s SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps to buy tickets and select seats. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer weekends and holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.

*Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.*

Validate

Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP, before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.

*Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!*

If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores. These are lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress. If you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.

It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!

Create an Itinerary

Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), tours, and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.

*First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome.* *Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.*

This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.

*Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.*

Take Time to Relax

A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything. Take your time and focus on a few highlights.

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.

Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.

*Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.*

We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!

Cash is Not King But You’ll Need Some

*There are certain things you have to pay cash for.*

You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all. There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere. We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one. You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific. Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet which is not that unusual in Europe.

*The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.*

On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency. You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM.

ATMs

Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees. When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice. When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately, just like at home. Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.

There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.

Buy Travel Insurance

*Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.*

No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen; from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse. Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry. Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance.

*Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!*

We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation. Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.

No Bad Weather

There’s an old saying, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe choices.” You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece.

Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.

*As the saying goes, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe decisions.” Be prepared!*

Packing Tips

Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.

*Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.*

If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself. Bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts. It’s considered disrespectful in many cultures and you don’t want to miss out.

*An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.*

Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling. You can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products you think you need at home and pick up your basics overseas. There are Sephoras in most cities and well-stocked pharmacies everywhere for everything from shampoo to shaving cream. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.

Don’t Check Luggage

Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer and holiday travel seasons. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it. Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees.

Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!

The Dreaded Gate Check

Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag. Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on. European rules are different and you’ll have to hand it over.

Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack. These are considered “personal items” and must fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.

*Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.*

Check Your Airline

Always check your airline’s requirements. Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible. Prices go up as departure time nears.

Cancel Deliveries

*You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..*

If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who allow you to donate your papers to local schools. Or have your account credited for days you are away, just don’t let them pile up on the driveway. Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too. The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return.

Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway. They can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.

Some Final Advice

You’re all set. Your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.

*Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!*

Here’s some final advice before you go: To really enjoy your travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp. Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines, and meeting new people. Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired, after all it is your vacation. Now go see the world and have some fun!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Have a Wellness Weekend in the Black Forest

fall foliage surrounds a pond with ducks

The charming German town of Badenweiler in the foothills of the Black Forest has been drawing wellness seekers for millennia. They come for the healing, mineral-rich waters to relax and find relief for everything from stress to rheumatism. A tradition since the Romans were here, we devoted our weekend in Badenweiler to bathing, both ancient and modern.

inside ancient Roman ruins of a bathing complex — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

signage about the romans who built these baths — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

In addition to lovely, wooded scenery, hiking trails, and the thermal waters that flow from under the Black Forest, Badenweiler boasts some of the most expansive and best-preserved Roman baths north of the Alps. We were excited to visit them. We followed a small group of people down a leafy walkway into a public park. There we found the glass pavilion that protects this archeological wonder. We paid 3 euro each to pass through the turnstile and travel back in time, way back.

Roman Rituals

The extraordinary 2,000-year-old ruins include the caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Our guide, Dominick, explained the hot, tepid, and cold baths were visited in that order. Cold plunges, popular today, are nothing new. Thousands of years ago the ancient Romans were well-versed in the therapeutic benefits of thermal waters of varying temperatures.

Community baths played an important role in Roman life. They were used not just to bathe, but also to socialize and keep up on politics and local news. Their baths also often included steam rooms and relaxing areas for this reason.

Ruins of a Roman bath complex — *The extensive bathing complex is one of the best preserved n*orth of the Alps.

Roman sculpture, grooming aids, and even a replica of typical Roman wooden bathing shoes are among the exhibits inside the pavilion. These platform sandals protected bathers’ feet from the hot floors inside the caldarium. Dominick was brimming with historical and entertaining facts about the Romans who settled in this part of Germany and built this elaborate bathing complex.

ancient pipes used in the bathing complex — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Replica of Roman bathing shoes — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Roman soldiers were often paid in land and encouraged to settle permanently in the areas they had been sent to conquer. This was the case in Badenweiler. Settler soldiers built these baths to enjoy the same rituals and amenities they would have enjoyed at home. Badenweiler’s healing thermal waters likely made these even more appealing.

Take the Tour

man in front of informational panels — *Our guide helped bring the ancient ruins to life. He gave the tour and answered questions in German and English.*

Visitors walk through and over the remarkable ruins on accessible walkways and have a bird’s eye view of all areas of the baths. Our guide explained the significance of each area in both German and English. Everyone in our small group spoke one or the other language. After a very informative hour-long walk through the Roman complex, Dominick led us out into the park surrounding the baths.

walkway over ancient ruins in the glass pavilion — *Walkways over and through the ruins make the complex accessible to all.*

Using our mobile phones to light the way we ducked through a small doorway, one by one. Dark and dank, we had entered a recreated ancient Roman drainage channel which had originally served the baths in this very spot. It was constructed in 1998. What a relief it was to return to sunlight after a short time inside the channel.

people exiting a tunnel — *The reconstructed subterranean drainage channel* *shows what masters of architecture the Romans were.*

It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but self-guided visits do not include the drainage channel, well worth seeing, or the wonderful stories Dominick shared that sparked our imagination and brought the distant past to life.

Modern Baths

After exiting the drainage tunnel, we looked up and saw people relaxing on chaise lounges on a broad terrace overlooking the park. They were enjoying the popular Cassiopeia Therme. Next door to the ancient Roman ruins, the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths draw visitors and locals alike to the healing waters within. The modern baths are housed in an impressive classical-style building.

Classical -style building with signage for Cassiopeia Therme — *The Cassiopeia Therme is a popular attraction in Badenweiler and can get crowded on weekends and holidays.*

Guests at these public baths enjoy the same thermal waters the Romans did, in a series of pools of varying temperatures and sizes indoors and out. Temperatures range from 30 to 36 degrees Celsius and are seasonally adjusted. Families, couples young and old, and this pair of American wanderers settled in for a relaxing afternoon in the healing waters.

Don’t Forget Your Towel

people waiting inside a large rotunda building — *People waited patiently to check in for an afternoon at the Cassiopeia Thermal Ba*ths.

This was our first experience in a public bath house. As we queued for entry, we realized we had already made a mistake not bringing towels from our hotel. Everyone else, we noticed, came equipped for the day with shower shoes, robes and towels. We had brought flip flops and swimsuits, but had to rent towels. We must not have been the only ones unprepared. Bathrobes, shower towels and sauna towels were available to rent at registration.

long hallway inside the Cassiopeia Therme — *A long hallway led to the gender-specific locker rooms. The rest of the facility is co-ed.*

Off to the changing rooms we went, locker keys in hand. The changing rooms had large lockers, restrooms, and showers. The faint sulfurous aroma of thermal waters wafted through the humid air as we approached the bathing areas.

No Lazy River

Though the day was overcast and a little cool, we headed to the large heated outdoor pool. People of all ages were clearly enjoying themselves. We saw couples floating hand-in-hand, kids leaping from their parents’ arms, and teenagers racing one another around the pool.

overview of large outdoor pool — *The giant whirlpool was a lot of fun and one of our favorite activities. Photo courtesy of Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH.*

There was a vast, oversized whirlpool at one end of the outdoor pool complex. We jumped in and let the water carry us, trying not to bump the other bathers as we circled, laughing as we moved through the swirling current. This was no lazy-river experience. We quickly figured out we would need an exit strategy to escape the strong current, but it was so much fun, we stayed in the fast-moving water for about a half an hour.

Take a Dip

There were many other pools to sample, so we held hands and made for one of the handles on the side of the pool. It took a few attempts, but we finally grabbed hold and swam out. After a dip at the other end of the huge outdoor pool, we headed indoors. There were a series of smaller pools inside on the ground level. Each had different depths and temperatures that were clearly posted. The smaller and shallower pools were popular (and populated) with young children. We avoided those. After exploring the options, we made a circuit from hottest to coolest pool and repeated it several times.

There were chairs and lounges around all the pools, indoors and out. Just like at home, people had “reserved” their chairs with towels and personal property. We took a short break on the comfortable lounges and enjoyed the view of the park outside.

Sauna Time

signage for thermal baths — *Signs outside the Cassiopeia thermal baths let guests know what to expect inside, including a wellness oasis.*

After enjoying almost all the pools on the ground level, we walked past the busy café and headed upstairs to the sauna area. We had become aufguss enthusiasts during our recent stay at the Adler Balance in Italy’s Dolomites and were looking forward to experiencing Cassiopeia’s saunas.

As we climbed the stairs, we noticed we were heading for an adults-only zone as well as a “textile free” area. This was a relatively new term to us and means simply, no swimsuits (or any other garments) allowed. The policy was evident in the large co-ed pool adjacent to the saunas, where naked bathers swam and floated, blissfully unencumbered by swimwear or self-consciousness.

Textile Free Zone

Another patron, perhaps sensing my foreignness, or hesitation, tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to the sign above the sauna, in German and English, when I failed to disrobe quickly enough. She may have thought I planned to enter the sauna in a swimsuit, which I knew was just not done.

signs inside the baths indicate different services — *These signs advertise the thermal baths and Roman-Irish bath*, *also in the textile free zone.*

Leaving our inhibitions and our swimsuits at the sauna door, we stepped out of our pool shoes and into the least hot (coolest would be a misnomer) of the units first. Cassiopeia has a range of saunas from 55 to 90 degrees Celsius. They include aroma, herbal, Finnish, crystal and infusion saunas.

There is also a Roman-Irish bath in the textile-free zone. That would have been a new experience for us but it was not available during our visit. There was plenty to keep us busy without it.

As we had learned at the Adler, a cold plunge or shower is a must after a sauna, especially if you are hopping back into another, even hotter one, as we were. Sauna, shower, repeat, was our plan. We both decided we enjoyed the hotter saunas and spent most of our time there. Interestingly, the saunas had little windows with a view of the pool. After several times in and out, we checked the posted schedule to see if aufguss was available.

The Aufguss Experience

Aufguss is a super-heated sauna experience usually enhanced by aromatherapy and music. It is led by an athletic (in my experience) and specially trained aufguss meister. Using towels and large handheld fans, the aufguss meister directs the hot air around the chamber and melts aroma-containing ice balls emitting scents ranging from relaxing pine forest to uplifting citrus into the sauna. Sadly, we had already missed the aufguss sessions scheduled for the day.

Glowing from our swim and sauna, and fully relaxed, we headed back to the locker room to shower and bid farewell to the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths. Our ancient and modern bathing experiences in Badenweiler were memorable. We’d return to Cassiopeia Therme in a heartbeat, this time with our own towels and robes.

If You Go

Roman Baths

glass pavilion over roman ruins in a park setting — *Take the guided tour to fully appreciate these extraordinary 2,000 year-old Roman baths.*

Tours of the ancient bathing complex are offered Sunday mornings at 11 throughout the year, with an additional one on Tuesdays at 4 pm during summer months. It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but we felt ours added a great deal to our visit.

There is signage, but in German only. Our guide was very helpful and we also used Google Translate to decipher many of the signs. The tour inside the pavilion is accessible to all, but the underground channel is not. Tour group size is limited. Book in advance.

Modern Baths

sign with historical information about the baths — *SIgnage shows how the Cassiopeia Therme has been modernized over its long history.*

Public baths are very popular in the Black Forest and Sunday is a busy day for them, as we learned first-hand. Guests of all ages from toddlers to octogenarians enjoy their time there. Bring your swimsuit, shower shoes, a robe, and a towel. Leave jewelry and valuables in your hotel’s safe. You will need a credit card or other payment method for your day pass, any food or beverages, and towel rental if you forget your own.

Be prepared to shed your swimwear and inhibitions at the sauna door and anywhere you see signs indicating “textile free” areas.

If you plan to shower in the locker rooms, bring your own grooming products.

The Cassiopeia Baths have a café for light meals and beverages. There is a lovely terrace overlooking the grounds and the Roman baths you can relax on.

We were guests of the Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH for the Roman Baths tour and visit to Casseopeia Therme.

Sleeping and Eating

Schwartzmatt Hotel

large yellow hotel building — *The Hotel Schwarzmatt made a great base for exploring the Black Forest and Badenweiler.*

We stayed in Badenweiler at the very comfortable Hotel Schwartzmatt, a member of the luxury Relais & Chateau group. We opted for half-board as our stay was in low season and many restaurants in town were not open. The hotel restaurant, which served a varied and delicious menu focusing on local dishes, was open only to hotel guests in late autumn. There were a few coffee shops and boutiques open in town, but it was quiet. Summer is the busy season here.

Wellness Oasis

The Hotel Schwarzmatt has a “wellness oasis” featuring a steam bath, Finnish and Bio saunas, an indoor pool, a sun pavilion and terrace. The spa offers massages and other treatments and there is a fitness room. These facilities are only available to hotel guests. We didn’t have time for any treatments but enjoyed the steam room, saunas and pool.

Written and photographed (I could not take photos in the baths for obvious reasons) by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Explore Rome’s Ancient Wonders and Mostly Avoid the Crowds

Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually. Last year, a jubilee year in the Catholic Church, was a record-breaker for tourism with nearly 23 million visitors and almost 53 million overnight stays.

Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. If this is your first time visiting, you’ll understandably want to see both. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?

*The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.*

Get a Pass

The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums.

The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days.

Roma Pass

The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.

Get ready for your trip to Rome!

The Baths of Diocletian

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.

*The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.*

*We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.*

This museum should be on your list even without a special exhibit. Built in the 4^th century, these are the largest and among the best preserved of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. The Baths are easy to reach. They are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s main train station—Roma Termini.

*Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.*

*A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.*

*Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.*

If you happen to visit the in the evening, walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light. It’s a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.

*The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.*

Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli

In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.

*The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.*

*This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.*

National Roman Museum

Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.

*Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.*

*Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.*

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!

Find Rome’s best hotels!

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

*Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.*

Near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.

*Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.*

Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.

*These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.*

*This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.*

*These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.*

Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2^nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.

*The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.*

*The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.*

Palazzo Altemps

*This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.*

Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15^th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.

*Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.*

The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.

*The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.*

*Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.*

The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.

*Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.*

Dragon Collection

The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.

*The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.*

Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.

Crypta Balbi

You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.

*The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.*

*Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.*

*Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.*

Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31.

Largo di Torre Argentina

Just around the corner from Crypta Balbi is the Largo di Torre Argentina. Here’s where you’ll find more interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point. Donations are welcome at the non-profit sanctuary, even if you aren’t interested in a new feline family member.

An Ancient Architectural Wonder

*Don’t miss the Pantheon. It’s one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.*

The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures. It has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. Tickets are 5 Euro and available online and onsite. Be prepared to wait if you haven’t purchased in advance.

*Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.*

We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.

*Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.*

The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

*Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.*

After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.

*Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.*

Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Reservations are essential as it’s popular with locals and tourists.

The Colosseum

I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without, just look for the signs. Note: You do not need a guide to enter. Beware of unscrupulous people hanging around outside who will tell you otherwise. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.

*Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.*

*There are rules, though apparently not always observed.*

You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade. Wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.

The Forum

The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.

*Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.*

Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.

*Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.*

Lunchtime or La Pranza

All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at 40, Largo Ricci. While we expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites, we were pleasantly surprised by both the quality of the meal and the price.

*We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.*

Head Out of Town

Take a trip just outside the city to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea. Now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded.

We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with interior wall paintings still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.

These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.

PS If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations near the historic center or want to know where to go for gelato, reach out!

If You Go

We usually stay at the Grand Flora, a wonderful historic hotel near the Borghese Gardens at the top of the Via Veneto. They have a marvelous rooftop with views over the city where breakfast is served. It’s fun to get a drink in the bar and bring it upstairs for sunset. Watch the lights go on at St. Peter’s as the sun goes down.

Public transportation is inexpensive and easy to use. Buses, trams and subways will take you to the far reaches of the city. You don’t need a car in Rome and driving can be chaotic. Parking is expensive. Be aware of pickpockets on public transportation, as you would in any large city. Taxis and Ubers are also convenient and easy to use. Be sure to use only licensed taxis– they’re usually white.

There are so many enchanting places to explore in Rome. Use the links below to get the most updated information about some of the places mentioned in this article:

Vatican, Colosseum, Crypta Balbi, Baths of Diocletian, Archeological Museum Pass.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and cannot be reproduced without permission.

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Fun, Free, and Almost Free, Things to Do in Rome

Lagoon in the Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

Heading to Rome? You won’t be alone. Last year, the Eternal City expected to host 35 million visitors, up from 13 million in 2024. It was a Jubilee Year in the Catholic Church—a celebration with events and activities throughout the year and a new, American Pope. The Jubilee is over but it will still be very crowded in Rome and prices for everything will be high. Go anyway.

To help you keep costs down while still enjoying the magic of Rome, I’ve put together a list of some of my favorite free (and almost free) things to do in the Eternal City.

Visit the Vatican

St. Peter's Basilica in Rome — *You must visit St. Peter’s Basilica at least once.*

Yes, there will be crowds, but how can you visit Rome and not see St. Peter’s? Entry to the Basilica and crypt is always free and tickets are not required. Lines are shorter early in the morning but there are always lines. You can also attend mass at St. Peter’s but be on time and dress appropriately. Shoulders and knees must be covered or you’ll risk being denied entry.

The Basilica is closed during the Pope’s Wednesday public audience until 1 p.m. The Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museums and Gardens are not free, but it is worth it. Order tickets now for a summer visit if you haven’t already!

Get ready for your trip to Rome!

Meet the Pope

*The Pope speaks from his balcony every Sunday but you could get lucky and see him in St. Peter’s Square.*

Every Wednesday morning (except in July and important Church feast days) the Pope holds a general audience for thousands of well-wishers either outside in the piazza in front of St. Peter’s or in the nearby auditorium. Tickets are free. Write to the Pontifical North American College pnac.org no later than two weeks before you’d like to attend, but as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

Papal Audience Tickets

Collect your tickets in person at PNAC offices near the Piazza Navona on the Tuesday before your visit. Newlyweds can apply to sit in the special Sposi Novelli section near the Holy Father. The audience is general seating but try to get an aisle seat for the best chance of an encounter with the Pope.

Be warned, it was chaotic when we went to an audience in the auditorium. People were clambering over chairs (and other people) to try to shake the Pope’s hand. Go early as you will have to pass through security.

Take a Walk in Rome’s Borghese Gardens

*Rome’s Borghese Gardens are full of fountains, sculpture and plenty of places to sit and relax.*

Located at the top of the Via Veneto, these beautiful gardens are to Rome what Central Park is to New York City. Once the private parklands of the powerful Borghese family, they’ve been open to the public since 1903. There are fountains, sculptures, and the Orolgio al Aqua del Pincio—a water powered clock from 1867 that’s still ticking along!

Orlogio al Aqua del Pincio Water clock in Rome's Borghese Gardens — *This water-powered clock has been keeping time since 1867.*

Bring a picnic and enjoy the views over the lagoon or pick a bench and people watch—it’s the perfect place for it. There’s a dog park, playing fields, even a riding rink where you can admire the equestrian skills of riders putting their horses through their paces.

So Much to Do

There are plenty of things to do in the Gardens of the Villa Borghese. Or you can just relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. Weekends are busy with families out enjoying the day and sometimes there are special events in the park. We came across a chocolate festival on a visit here. Very tasty!

*Rent a bike, a trike or a boat in the Borghese Gardens for more family fun.*

For a small fee, you can rent a boat, a bicycle or a kart, or ride the carousel. The world-renowned Galleria Borghese is here, too, galeriaborghese.beniculturi.it with its collection of works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Titian and other masters. The museum has a private sculpture garden, too. It is not free but absolutely worth a visit and must be booked in advance online.

*The Museo Canonica is one of* the eight free City of Rome Museums.

The Pietro Canonica Museum museocanonica.it/en which features the sculptor’s work, is also in the park and because it is a City of Rome Museum, is free.

Art, Archeology, and History for Free

*Rome’s free city museums feature fine art, antiquities, fossils and ancient artifacts.*

The City of Rome’s eight free museums are sure to delight and entertain most visitors. These small museums present everything from fine art to fossils, and ancient Egyptian artifacts to Napoleonic family heirlooms. They each focus on a specific area.

*The Napoleonic Museum is free and worth a visit to see the Bonaparte family’s art and personal belongings, many with historical relevance.*

In no particular order, the free Comune di Roma Museums include: Napoleonic Museum (a grand palazzo with art and belongings from generations of the Bonaparte family), Museo delle Mura (archeology museum inside the Aurelian Walls), Pietro Canonica Museum (the sculptor’s works exhibited in “the little fortress”–his home and studio), Casal de’ Pazzi Museum (archeology), Carlo Bilotti Museum (contemporary art), Museo della Memoria Garibaldina (Italian history), Giovanni Barracco Museum (ancient Middle Eastern arts and artifacts and Classical Greek sculpture), and Villa Massenzio (Imperial Roman villa on the Appia Antica).

*You’ll rarely fight crowds at Rome’s smaller, less known museums.*

Visit museiincomuneroma.it for details on each of these small treasure- filled museums. Not only are they free, but in my experience, and I’ve visited almost all of them, they are rarely crowded.

Explore Rome’s Neighborhoods

Villa Torlonia Gardens — *Leave the center of the city and explore Rome’s vibrant and interesting neighborhoods.*

There is a lot more to explore in Rome than the Centro Storica, the city’s historic center, though of course you’ll spend time there, especially if this is your first visit. Head out to the upscale Nomentana neighborhood and enjoy another lovely park at the Villa Torlonia museivillatorlonia.it/en.

*The gardens surrounding the Villa Torlonia are open to the public and one of the few “English” gardens in Rome.*

This is one of the few sprawling English-style gardens in Rome and it is free to enter. We have seen yoga classes, kids playing soccer, picnickers, and people just relaxing in this lovely green space. There are also sculptures and a grand obelisk in the park to enjoy.

*You can visit the Villa Torlonia, Mussolini’s former home, for free on the first Sunday of the month as part of the Domenica al Museo program.*

Mussolini Lived Here

Mussolini and his family made their home at the Villa Torlonia from 1925-1943. He rented the VIlla for one lira a year, which is less than you’ll pay to enter the Villa, now a museum. The ticket also includes entry to the Little Owl House and a contemporary art gallery on the grounds. Mussolini’s underground bunker requires a separate ticket and has more limited hours.

Owl House at Villa Torlonia in Rome — *The art-filled Casa delle Civette is included with admission to the Museo Villa Torlonia.*

After your visit to the park and villa, go around the corner to my favorite gelateria- Guttilla Alta Gelateria. It’s not free but costs less than five euro for a three-scoop cone topped with panna (cream) and a cookie!

ice cream cones from the gelato shop Guttilia — *Take a break and enjoy a gelato!*

There are many neighborhoods outside the city center that all have something enriching to offer from markets to museums. Rome’s public transportation system is inexpensive and makes it easy to get around. We use it frequently, especially when we want to visit a more far flung location like Cine Citta, which while not free, I highly recommend if you’d like to do something completely different on your Roman holiday.

Unless you’re traveling at rush hour (and why would you?) buses and subways are convenient, affordable, and not terribly crowded.

Have a Wander

*The 19th century Galerie Sciarra is one of Rome’s “hidden” treasures. FInd it on Via Marco Minghetti.*

Wandering Rome’s cobbled streets is one of the great free pleasures of a visit here. You never know what you’ll find as you explore the streets of this beautiful city. We discovered this gorgeous frescoed late 19th galleria completely by accident. On a walk one afternoon we came up a college graduation (champagne corks popping) near the Colosseum, nuns and gladiators on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, and heard an impromptu acappella concert in a park as we made our way to the Scuderie del Quirinale.

*We walked by a college graduation celebration with champagne, laurel crowns and happy families.*

Treasures at Every Turn

Stroll around the Jewish Quarter or the Trastevere, which means across the Tiber. The Flaminia neighborhood has plenty of shops and a great contemporary art museum– MAXXI italia.it/en/lazio/rome/maxxi-museum. It’s free on the first Sunday of the month, as are many of the Musei di Comune di Roma that typically require tickets, including the Centrale Montemartini where you’ll find classic sculpture displayed in Rome’s first power plant, and the MACRO satellite with its multimedia and contemporary art. Both are in outlying neighborhoods, respectively in Ostiense and the Testaccio, a former slaughterhouse area that’s now home to top restaurants, local markets and museums, of course.

Free First Sundays in Museums

*The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art is part of the Sunday at the Museum Program.*

For a complete list of museums, monuments and sites that participate in Domenica al Museo, the free on first Sundays program, visit cultura.gov.it but be aware that special exhibitions will still require a paid ticket. A MIC pass will give you further discounts for ticketed museums and special exhibits, if you are eligible for it.

The Swiss Institute

The Swiss Institute, housed in a stunning early 20th century palazzo, often hosts free contemporary art exhibitions that change regularly, lectures and other events.

The gardens are spectacular, too. Check out current offerings here.

Pick a Piazza and Drink Up!

*Rome’s Piazza Navona is one of the city’s best known squares and home to museums, churches and restaurants as well as the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (four rivers).*

From the popular Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori to small, tucked away piazzetti, you’ll stumble upon plenty of places to ponder and people watch across the city. You’ll also find public fountains everywhere–usually good places to sit and relax a bit. There are 2,500 fountains within the city of Rome according to several sources.

Piazetta di Vicolo in Rome, Italy — *The Piazetta di Vicolo di San Simeone is one of the many small piazzas throughout the city. The Taverna Agape here is good for a casual meal.*

Coffee Culture

Wherever you find a piazza or piazzetta, there’s almost always a bar nearby for a quick espresso. Drink it standing up like the locals do, and if you stop into a popular place like Sant’ Eustachio, be ready to order or they’ll pass you by. An espresso is still only a few euro in most places. Remember, everything costs more if you sit at a table than if you stand at the bar and no milky drinks after breakfast please.

The Porter's Fountain in Rome, Italy — *The Fountain of the Porter dates back to 1580.*

Fun fact–Rome’s drinking fountains are often called “nasoni” because many are shaped like big noses. And yes, the water is safe to drink in all Roman fountains, so bring your water bottle and fill it up. It’s free.

See the Roman Forum for Free

*The Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most iconic modern structures.*

Often called the “wedding cake” or the “typewriter”, the Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most recognizable modern structures. Located in the busy Piazza Venezia, it honors Italy’s first king and the unification of the country. Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is here.

Climb the white marble steps and head to the rear of the Altare della Patria–you’ll have a splendid view over the Forum for free. Do not sit on the stairs. You can take a glass elevator to the very top for even better views for a small fee. The ticket includes access to the Museum of the Risorgimento inside the monument and an audio guide.

The Imperial Forum and the Colosseum are not free but participate in the Domenica al Museo program (first Sundays free) but lines will be very long. An Architectural Pass or Roma Pass help save money and skip the long lines.

Window Shop

It costs nothing to admire the designer goods and fabulous fashions on display in the windows along the Via Condotti and Via del Babuino–if you can resist the temptation of Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and other fashionista favorites. Via del Corso has lots of shopping, too, at a more affordable price point.

*Clever window displays always draw a crowd.*

If you’re looking to do more than admire the window displays, head over to the Via del Corso for more affordable shopping. Visit the Rinascente, Italy’s premier department store. Take a walk down the Via Tritone to find it. Check out the views from their rooftop bar/cafe.

The Spanish Steps

Spanish Steps and Trinita dei Monti — *Sooner or later, everyone stops by the Spanish Steps. Please do not sit down.*

It’s always free to walk up and down the Spanish Steps but do not sit down or you will risk a sizable fine. Head up the steps to Trinita dei Monti and enjoy the beautiful church and the views towards St. Peter’s Basilica. At the bottom of the stairs is the Fontana della Baraccia, Via del Corso, and the famous Via Condotti for upscale shopping

Cozy Up to Cats

*It’s hard to see them in this photo, but plenty of cats call Rome’s Largo di Argentina home.*

The Cat Sanctuary at Largo di Argentina is home to hundreds of feral felines that are fed, vaccinated, neutered, and adopted out by a legion of volunteers. The sanctuary, which was nearly evicted from these ancient Roman ruins in 2012, is free to visit but depends upon donations to continue its work. Stop by to admire the ancient Roman foundations and watch the kitties at play. Give them a few euro while you’re there.

More Free Art

*Step inside Rome’s “identical” churches to enjoy the art and see how different they actually are.*

Rome’s artistic treasures aren’t all in museums. Even some of the city’s smaller churches have amazing art which we’ve discovered by stopping into many that looked interesting to us. We’ve seen incredible sculpture, paintings, frescoes and tapestries by the great masters, simply by chance.

man blowing massive bubbles in Piazza di Popolo Rome, Italy — *This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.*

*This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.*

Piazza del Popolo

For another cultural treat, head over to the Piazza del Popolo. There’s always something entertaining going on there and it is also home to Rome’s so-called twin churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto. The baroque exteriors are quite similar, but once inside you’ll see that though beautiful, the churches are not at all identical.

*You can pay one euro each to illuminate Caravaggio’s spectacular Conversion of Saint Paul and Crucifixion of St. Peter. Both are in the north transept of th*e *Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo.*

Closer to the Aurelian Walls near the Fountain of Neptune and the Goddess of Rome Fountain, you’ll find the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo. The church has two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces along with works by other artists including Bernini and Raphael, and frescoes by Pinturicchio. Make it a point to visit here.

Visit Rome’s Official Cathedral. Hint: It is Not St. Peter’s!

Last year the Basilica of San Giovanni di Laterano celebrated its 1700th anniversary. It is one of the most important in Rome, the oldest in Europe and the only archbasilica in the world. It serves as the seat of the bishop of Rome aka, the Pope, and is the official Cathedral of Rome, not St. Peter’s. The Altar of the Holy Sacrament contains a table said to be used at the Last Supper.

After your visit, cross the plaza and climb the Scala Santa or sacred steps. This wood- encased marble staircase is believed to have been brought from the home of Pontius Pilate by St. Helene, Emperor Constantine’s mother. Pilgrims climb the 28 steps on their knees in a display of piety, and historically, to seek indulgence– the fast track to heaven. Important relics are kept here including fragments of the True Cross. Both St. John’s and the Pontifical Shrine of the Holy Stairs are free. Appropriate dress is required and no photos are allowed here.

Savor the Sunset

*The Pincio Terrazzo overlooking the Piazza del Poppolo is the perfect spot to watch the sun setting over St. Peter’s dome.*

One of the best and most popular places to view the setting sun in Rome is the Pincio Terrace in the Borghese Gardens overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. Locals and tourists stand shoulder to shoulder, waiting for the magic moment, oohing and aahing in languages from all over the world. It is the perfect way to end the day in this always enchanting and often surprising city.

*You’ll have plenty of company on the Pincio Terrace watching the sunset.*

This is by no means an exhaustive list of free things to do in Rome but will get you started. Have fun and share your discoveries with us in your comments or by email!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express consent.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I
may earn a commission at no extra cost to you, and I
promise not to spend it all on gelato. Thank you!

Go Play Outside in Beautiful Bend Oregon

If you like spending your sunny days outdoors, head to Bend, Oregon. Hiking, biking, fishing, rock climbing, floating, kayaking, and paddle boarding are just a few of the outdoor pursuits that make Bend (and nearby Central Oregon communities) enormously popular in summer months. Spectacular waterfalls, lakes, and lava flows are close by and the mighty Deschutes River winds its way right through the city.

*The Deschutes River runs right through Bend, Oregon* *providing plenty of summer fun for kayakers, paddle boarders and floaters.*

I noticed a sign saying, “Defund Visit Bend,” posted on a bridge on a recent stay, but I’ve always found the locals friendly and happy to share the attractions their city offers. As a frequent visitor, here are some of my favorite places to go out and play:

Get ready for your trip to Bend!

Floating Away

I think floating on the Deschutes River is one of the best ways to while away a summer afternoon in Bend, and I’m not alone in that opinion. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, one quarter of a million people take to the river on floats, paddle boards and kayaks, according to VisitBend.com. Weekends get really crowded. If you can, do your floating mid-week. There are rules for everyone’s safety. Wear your personal flotation device (there are no lifeguards on the river), and alcoholic beverages are not permitted. It’s the law.

*Early on a midweek morning, you’ll share the river with more ducks than people.*

What You’ll Need

We’ve seen plenty of dogs floating with their humans, but it is not recommended, even with doggie life jackets. Neither are pool toys and floats; they aren’t sturdy enough for the rocks and branches you’ll encounter. If you don’t have your own, rent equipment at Park & Float or Riverbend Park. PFDs are free to borrow at both places. Reserve your floats in advance since it’s first come, first served, at the rental places.

*Pets and pool toys belong at home, not on the river.*

Equipment rental at Riverbend Park in Bend. — *Pets and pool toys belong at home, not on the river.*

Along with your water bottle, sunscreen, hat, and rash guard, remember your aqua socks. Get a pair with sturdy soles to protect your feet from rocks. Leave your flip flops at home. You’ll also want a dry bag to keep your car keys, wallet and phone safe while you float along. If you didn’t bring one, there’s an REI in the Old Mill District.

*There’s a short section of the Deschutes with rapids, but you can choose to go over them or not.*

Keep an eye out for the white water rapids under the Colorado Avenue Bridge. Fear not, it’s a short segment of the river. If you’re not up for the adrenaline rush, it’s easy to leave the river just before the rapids and put back in after you pass them. There are warning signs in the river that show where to go.

It’s fun to watch people navigate the rapids on their floats, paddle boards, kayaks, and sometimes, surf boards, from the safety of the shore. Depending on where you put in (and the currents) your river “cruise” will take between one and two hours.

*Surf’s up on the Deschutes*! *Bring your board and enjoy the ride*.

The Old Mill District: Go for the Music, Bird Watching, and More

*Hayden Homes Amphitheater hosts high wattage talent all summer long.*

You’ll have floated (or paddled) right by the Old Mill District on your river outing. The towering smokestacks you passed have become a Bend landmark, and are all that remain of what were once two highly productive lumber mills.

Now the Old Mill District is a thriving gathering place with restaurants, bars, shops and Hayden Homes, the largest outdoor music venue in Oregon. The amphitheater has 8,000 seats, including lawn spots, and features chart toppers in every genre from alt rock to cowboy crooners all summer long. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a sultry summer night!

*Paved paths along the Deschutes beckon bike riders and dog walkers.*

The inviting pathways along both sides of the Deschutes at the Old Mill make it easy to walk, jog, or bike along the river. If you don’t have your own two wheels, Wheel Fun bike rentals are open seasonally. Bend is a dog-friendly town so bring your furry friend for a stroll here, but please obey leash laws.

This is also a great place for bird watching. Pick up a free guide at the Ticket Mill or the Bend Visitor Center before you set out. Raptors, woodpeckers, songbirds, waterfowl and shorebirds as well as owls and quails call Bend and its environs home or are migratory visitors. The East Cascades Bird Alliance occasionally offers free guided “bird walks” along the river.

*Bird watching is a popula*r pastime at the Old Mill.

If you’re looking for retail therapy, the Old Mill has everything from clothing to fine jewelry, accessories and sporting goods. There are also plenty of places to eat and drink. But let’s get back to the great outdoors.

Climb Smith Rock

*Smith Rock State Park draws rock climbers from around the world. It’s a great place to hike and bike, too.*

Some claim rock climbing was invented at Smith Rock State Park in nearby Terrebonne. Whether that’s true or not, with a ridge elevation of 3,200 feet, the high volcanic walls are a big draw for climbers from around the world. That’s not for me, but the scenic hiking trails are.

Choose the well-marked trails that best match your abilities from the easy Canyon Trail to the aptly named Misery Ridge Trail. You’ll enjoy spectacular vistas on whichever trail you follow, especially the ones overlooking Crooked River. Smith Rock is also popular for fishing and mountain biking. It’s a beautiful place to spend the day.

*The scenic trails along Crooked River are my favorite.*

There is little to no shade at Smith Rock State Park, and it gets really hot in Central Oregon in the summertime. Try to get out on the trail early and bring plenty of water. Rangers recommend 16 oz. per person per hour. Wear sunscreen and appropriate footwear and be mindful that this is a wilderness area. Watch out for wildlife and snakes.

*Smith Canyon’s majestic volcanic walls*.

There is a $10 day use fee for Oregon residents ($12.50 for all others), unless you have an annual Oregon State Park pass. Smithrock.com has all the details you’ll need to plan your outing. Check in at the Welcome Center in the parking lot for passes, maps and information.

*Get out on the trail as early as you can in the summer.*

Ice Cream

There are no services in the park, but plan to stop at nearby Juniper Junction. Rockhard has the most delicious huckleberry ice cream I’ve ever tasted. Reward yourself after your exertions! The small store also has local crafts, souvenirs, and snacks. Contact them for rock climbing guides.

Alpacas!

On your way back to Bend, stop at the Crescent Moon Alpaca Ranch. Walk around the enclosure, learn about, and feed these fuzzy creatures whose wool is so prized. These alpacas are super friendly and so are the people who work here. We saw new babies in the barn and you might, too. Crescent Moon has a terrific gift shop with all things alpaca from gorgeous knitwear to stuffed toys and lotions and potions made locally. They sell the alpaca food there, too.

Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Volcanic activity began here 500,000 years ago and produced 400 cinder cones, lava tubes, and vents amid a flow area that covers 1,200 square miles. Newberry National Volcanic Monument in the Deschutes National Forest covers 57,384 acres of that area, which means there are plenty of places to explore the fascinating geological formations created by volcanoes in Central Oregon.

Some sites in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument are accessible to all, others are not for the mobility challenged. Big Obsidian Flow is in the latter category. Formed only 1,300 years ago, it is the youngest lava flow here.

Beware Changeable Weather

Somehow we thought it would be fun to climb what turned out to be an extremely treacherous one- mile loop to the top of the razor-sharp flow. It was all about the views of surrounding mountains and Paulina Lake for us. While we were enjoying the sights from the top, suddenly lightning flashed, thunder roared, and the rain poured down. Realizing we were the tallest things up there, we ran for our lives as carefully as we could down the hazardous, barely- there trail, getting soaked to the skin. It was an adventure we laugh about now.

We’d gone from sunshine to torrential rains and back to sunshine by the time we reached nearby Paulina Lake. We knew we’d find restrooms, shelter and food there. A kind woman on the restroom line took one look at my soaking wet hair and clothes and offered me her beach towel. I gladly accepted. Paulina Lake is popular for boating and fishing and has a lodge with a casual restaurant. They rent boats ranging from canoes to motorboats, but I’d had enough water for one day.

Welcome to Lava Lands!

*There are spectacular views across the lava fields to the mountains beyond at Lava Lands.*

Lava Lands Visitor Center with its Chitwood Exhibit Hall is a great place to begin your exploration of the Newbury National Volcanic Monument. Named for a former geologist with the U.S. Forest Service, the Chitwood Exhibit Hall is full of educational, interactive exhibits on the geology and cultural history of the area including a 3D topographical map. There are daily films and helpful Forest Service Ranger talks.

*The 7,000 -year old lava flows here came from Lava Butte, above.*

Step outside the visitors center and you’ll enter Lava Land. There’s a 5.5-mile fully accessible Sun Lava Trail as well as the Trail of Molten Land over the 7,000-year-old lava that flowed down from nearby Lava Butte. There are plenty of informative signs about the geological features, the wildlife, and the original inhabitants on these lands. A seasonal shuttle takes visitors to Lava Butte for a fee, or you can hike up. There’s also a pleasant walk through a young forest along the Trail of the Whispering Pines.

Had we come here first, we would have been better prepared for Big Obsidian Flow! There are picnic tables and restrooms here as well as a well-stocked gift shop.

Spooky and Surreal Lava Cast Forest

*All that remains of a majestic forest are these otherworldl*y lava casts.

Once upon a time, an enormous forest stood where lava casts of this old growth forest now lie. About 7,000 years ago molten lava caught the trees on fire, and the resulting steam formed the casts. It’s an extraordinary place and fascinating to see.

*The landscape is eerily beautiful at Lava Cast Forest.*

The beginning of the trail from the parking lot is paved and accessible to all, but further out into the Lava Cast Forest the trail becomes rough and nearly disappears in places. Strollers or wheelchairs should turn back, but hikers can continue down the switchback through the Ponderosa Pines. There are no services and no shade here so be prepared for heat and sun, and pack accordingly.

Waterfalls

*You’ll need to hike to see this waterfall in Deschutes County.*

The Northwest Waterfalls Survey lists more than 60 waterfalls in Deschutes County, some unnamed. At almost 100 feet, Tumalo Falls is the tallest and one of the most popular waterfalls in Central Oregon. It’s easy to reach and busy with bikers and hikers. For fewer crowds, head halfway between Bend and Sunriver to see both Dillon and Benham Falls. We visited both one afternoon.

*It’s a thrill to watch the whitewater race by at these atypical waterfalls in the Deschutes National Forest.*

These are very different from the typical cascading waterfalls you might expect, but well worth a visit. Reach these falls by either hiking the Deschutes River Trail between the two or driving to each. We drove and hiked the trails along the river at each of the falls.

*Take a moment. Breathe in the fragrant pines and enjoy the spectacular white water views!*

The one-mile accessible trail from the day use/parking area at Dillon Falls takes you through the towering Ponderosa pines to a lookout point over the river. The river narrows here, and you can view the raging rapids furiously funneling through the channel as it drops, creating Dillon Falls. The lava flow on the opposite shore is impressive, too.

*Volcanic walls force the powerful rapids through a narrow channel in the Deschutes forming Dillon Falls*.

Beware! The river here runs tremendously fast and turns into Class-V whitewater. It is as treacherous as it is beautiful and a recent tubing accident resulted in fatalities. If you are not an expert on the water, the views are best enjoyed from the trail. Hike along the riverbank to enjoy the spectacular scenery.

*Dillon Falls has roiling rapids and class-5 whitewater. It’s a beautiful hike along the riverbank and a much safer place to enjoy these raging waters.*

South of Dillon, you’ll find Benham Falls. At 25 feet, Benham is the largest waterfall on the Upper Deschutes River. There’s no monumental cascade of water, instead you’ll see a series of powerful rapids rushing over steep volcanic rock. The drop forms Benham Falls. You may see rafters and kayakers paddling through the fast-moving river here, surrounded by high volcanic walls. We also spotted hardy mountain bikers on the rugged trail as we relaxed with our picnic lunch.

Dillon Falls looks calm where river widens. it is not. — *Enjoy the tranquility.*

Just beyond the Newbury Caldera, 80 feet high Paulina Falls is another favorite. There’s a short, accessible trail to the double-plumed waterfall and a picnic area. Hike further along to view the majestic falls from above, which we did. You won’t be alone here; these falls are popular.

You’ll need a $5 day use pass, Northwest Forest annual pass, or a lifetime America the Beautiful pass available to people age 62+ for $80 wherever you see signs saying, “Recreation fee required.” Click here for pass and permit information.

But Wait, There’s More

Bend has plenty to offer in all seasons, and it’s especially enjoyable in summertime. Visitors can explore the Ale Trail, High Desert Food Trail, and Roundabout Art Route. Downtown Bend is a delight with boutiques, restaurants, breweries, and bars. There are world-class golf resorts, and even a tea producer in this growing city.

Bend Oregon welcome sign — *Bend has something for everyone.*

Woman-owned Metolius blends responsibly- sourced teas from family farms and small co-ops, along with delicious handcrafted syrups. You can sample their popular chai, Earl Gray and other teas at local cafes including Sisters Coffee and the Backporch. They’ll ship your online order or you can pick it up when you’re in Bend. I love their teas and was lucky enough to have a private tour there.

*Metolius Teas are handcrafted in Bend.*

There are also notable museums in and around Bend, including the High Desert Museum, my favorite! More on that in another article.

*Have some outdoor fun in Bend before the sun sets on summer.*

Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or taking the whole family; go and enjoy this outdoor paradise while the summer days are long.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you for your support!

O Canada! An Exciting Culinary Adventure in Southern Québec

It doesn’t normally take five days to drive from Québec City to Montreal, but we weren’t on an ordinary trip. Hosted by Bonjour Québec, we were on an epicurean journey. Our culinary experiences included a visit to a traditional sugar shack; farm-to-table dining where the farm was literally outside the door; visits to local wineries as well as an award-winning cidery; a monumental market with an educational farm and butterfly pavilion; a mountain hike and more. We only had one night in each location, but I’d strongly recommend settling in and enjoying Southern Quebec’s warm hospitality more fully. Here are some of the highlights:

Find the best accommodations in Southern Québec!

Wine and Cheese? Oui, Merci!

Canada may not be the first country that springs to mind for wine tourism. Perhaps you should. The Okanagan Valley in British Columbia has 284 wineries and 4,486 hectares of vineyards and Ontario is known for it’s world-class ice wine. Québec is Canada’s third largest wine region and a growing force in the country’s wine industry. It boasts 125 wineries and 775 Hectares dedicated to viticulture. i

Our journey began with a visit to Vignoble Cotes du Gavet, a family-run, award-winning winery in Centre-du-Québec. The Marchand family has been making wines here since 2023 from vineyards that have been producing since 2000.

We sampled several of their wines including their pet nats (petillant naturel). I was particularly partial to the sparkling rose. The wines, under both Cotes du Gavet and Osez labels, are made using local hybrid grape varietals like Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Noir, Louise Swenson, Sabrevois, Petite Pearl and Crimson Pearl.

We enjoyed delicious cheeses from Fromagerie du Presbytère with our wine tasting. Their award-winning cheeses are produced nearby by the Morin family using milk from their dairy farm, Ferme Louis d’Or. They are aged in a former church, which retains a small chapel for worship. Our cheese platter featured Louis d’Or aged 24 and 36 months, Religieuse, Bleu d’Elizabeth and Laliberte. I’d love to visit their shop in St. Elizabeth du Warwick during one of their famous Friday summer picnics. They feature live music and are open to all.

Poutine!

Poutine is almost synonymous with Québec. We learned all about this beloved regional dish and its controversial beginnings at the Musee des Cultures du Monde. The iconic dish, which is traditionally made from French fries, gravy and cheese curds, has been adapted globally to reflect local tastes in nearly every corner of the world.

We had fun voting for our favorite origin story and most important ingredient using giant plastic French fries. The only thing missing here was actual poutine. I think we were all craving it at the end of the exhibit. The poutine-themed merch in the gift shop was impossible to resist and made up for missing the tasty dish.

Poutine: A Culture of all Flavors is a special exhibition and closes September 28. There is more to see at this small museum in the Centre-du-Québec.

The museum has ongoing exhibitions about world religions including a massive display of Barbie dolls illustrating wedding customs from many cultures.

Elevated Cuisine at Au Paturage

Au Paturage roughly translates to at the pasture. The restaurant is indeed surrounded by agricultural fields and flower- filled meadows. The elegant Au Paturage- Espaces Gourmand,

focuses on seasonal, locally sourced foods, including produce grown on their own three-acre farm, right outside the restaurant. Their cheese comes from Fromagerie Presbytère and meat from Ferme le Roy du Cerf. After a welcome cocktail, it was time to taste the vegetable-forward menu.

Prepared in the open kitchen by Chef Chloe Ouellet, the meal was spectacular. Each course was paired with wines from Québec, or interestingly, Eastern Europe. During summer, their dog-friendly 55-seat terrace is open. Be sure to make a reservation.

The (Very) Old Mill

After a night at Hotel Montfort in Nicolet, it was time to move on to Bécancour. We began the day with a visit to the historic Moulin Michel, which has been grinding buckwheat into flour since 1743. The current mill has been operating in the Centre-du-Québec since 1774, after a fire destroyed the original mill.

Owner Philippe Dumas showed us the hydraulic mechanism and taught us about the fascinating history of buckwheat, the 18^th century mill, and the area. Fun fact, in lieu of cash, farmers left a portion of their grain as payment to use the mill, which was available to everyone.

Inside the historic mill building you’ll find a café and shop with delectable pastries, coffee and local products for sale. In the evening it becomes a bar.

During summer months, the sprawling grounds behind the mill are transformed into an entertainment venue. The Old Mill hosts a Blues Festival, now in its fifth year, that draws 1,200 people to this town of 2,000.

Take a Hike or Bike

We needed to walk off all those goodies and did so with a guided hike at the beautiful Parc des Sommets. It’s a popular natural recreation area in Bromont in the Eastern Townships. In summer, the 150 kilometers of hiking trails draw outdoor lovers of all ages and abilities. It’s also a great place to bike. Let the kids try out the climbing wall or just enjoy a picnic here.

Southern Québec boasts six national parks perfect for outdoor endeavors like hiking, biking and kayaking during lazy summer days. There are snow sports of all kinds when the winter weather beckons.

L’Espace Old Mill

Having met our exercise goal for the day, it was time for dinner at one of the toughest tables to get in the Eastern Townships; L’Espace Old Mill.

Inspiration and education are on the menu at this extraordinary restaurant that serves only what grows in its greenhouse and gardens (even in Québec’s frigid winter months) and what it can procure from nearby farms. We enjoyed a glass of local sparkling wine while we toured the expansive gardens with Executive Chef Eric Gendron before heading inside the airy dining room to feast on summer’s bounty.

The hyper-local focus is on the cuisine of the Brome-Missiquoi region here. Farmer/owner Jean-Martin Fortier came by and shared his vision for L’Espace Old Mill and their ongoing commitment to sustainable and regenerative farming, widely embraced by farmers in the Eastern Townships.

The Michelin Green Star-awarded restaurant’s menu is naturally vegetable-forward, though not vegetarian. I don’t think I have ever had peas or radishes that tasted so sweet and delectable! The wines poured to match the courses were also local. After a remarkable meal, we were off to nearby Hotel Chateau-Bromont, our lux and comfortable home for the night.

We had a beautiful bi-level room at Hotel Chateau-Bromont with a gorgeous view of the mountains. After our abundant breakfast, we explored the property, wishing we had more time to lounge around the spa and pool area. We need a return visit to take advantage of the wellness offerings here and revisit the beautiful nature park! Another dinner at Old Mill would be wonderful, too.

Beer and Brunch

It was time to move on to the charming town of Dunham and the Brasserie Dunham, which brews its own beer. We took a table in the outdoor beer garden and finally, poutine was on the menu! We couldn’t resist ordering a plate to share.

Hearty sandwiches, salads, burgers and other beer-friendly fare make the Brasserie popular for lunch and dinner. The brewery offers beers from blonde lagers to IPAs to seasonal ales and stouts. Our group sampled several. Our wonderful driver Dave was behind the wheel so were able to indulge in adult beverages.

On the Wine Route

Our stomachs full, we headed out to explore the wine route of Brome-Missisquoi where about 60 percent of Québec’s wine is produced. Now home to more than 20 wineries, the 160-kilometer route winds through beautiful countryside, rolling hills and several pleasant towns in the Eastern Townships. There are itineraries for cars and bicycles available.

Domaine du Ridge

Our first stop was at Domaine du Ridge, a 200-acre property that includes fields, woodlands and 40 acres of vineyards. It’s a popular venue for weddings and other special events. Tours and tastings are by reservation at this 26-year-old winery.

In addition to still and sparkling wines, Domaine du Ridge produces a late harvest made with Vidal Blanc grapes called Bis d’Automne (Autumn Kiss), a dessert wine in the style of Pineau des Charentes, and Mystic, a vermouth. After sampling several still wines from their recent vintage it was time to move on to Vignoble de l’Ardennais.

Vignoble de l’Ardennais

You’ll know you have arrived at Vignoble de l’Ardennais when you see the giant bunny painted on the garage. This was my favorite, both for the wines and the charming owner, Pier Cousineau, who with his wife Stephanie Thibodeau, and adult children Charlotte and Eliot, run every facet of wine production from label design to vinification.

Other than Pinot Noir and Riesling, the grape varieties used here were unfamiliar to me. Seyval Noir, Chancellor, Petite Pearl, Frontenac Noir, Cayuga, and Marquette are hardy hybrid varietals that grow well in the often unforgiving Québec climate. Monsieur Cousineau uses them to full advantage to produce excellent wines and has been since 2016 when they acquired the property. The vineyards had been established by the previous owner in 1994. Grab a glass of Berthe rose and relax in the Adirondack chairs or picnic tables. That’s my idea of a perfect summer Sunday afternoon.

Dining en Plein Aire

It was a pleasant surprise to find that our Sunday dinner at Les Cocagnes in Frelighsburg would be prepared by chefs Emile Trembly and Sylvain Dervieux from Faux Bergers in Baie St. Paul, where we had spent the weekend before arriving in Québec City.

Les Cocagnes

Each summer weekend, chefs from throughout Québec set up shop at this bucolic spot in the Eastern Townships. After an aperitif and hand-sliced local prosciutto, we followed our hostess through the fields and vegetable gardens to the outdoor dining room for a memorable five-course tasting menu paired with local wines. Reservations are essential.

It was time to leave the Eastern Townships for Montérégie. La Cache du Lac Champlain across the street from Lake Champlain was our home for the evening. After depositing our bags in our large room with a golf course view, we headed out for a moonlight walk along the lake.

We couldn’t resist a local ice cream stand a few blocks away and enjoyed our cones while admiring the public art and private terraces along the lake front. These terraces, with outdoor furniture and boat docks, dot the lakefront while the homes are across the road.

Public Art

Les Amoureuses (The Lovers) by Veronique Pepin and Patrick Monast has space inside for two. It is the first work in a public art installation in Venice-en-Québec and will be on view through May 2026.

Ferme Guyon and Bonne Saint Jean

We heard people at breakfast greeting each other with “Bonne Saint Jean.” Saint Jean Baptiste (John the Baptist) is the patron saint of Québec, and the Fete de la Saint Jean is a national holiday in the province. This called for a slight change of plans and a trip to Ferme Guyon.

Just 30 minutes from Montreal, this is the supermarket of my dreams. Farm-fresh produce, fine cheeses, charcuterie, maple sugar everything (cotton candy!), and an extensive selection of local ciders, beer and wines, plus Québecois handicrafts make this a one-stop shop for picnic provisions or any meal you’d want to prepare. If you don’t have time to visit local fromageries, wineries and farms, a trip here will definitely give you a taste of local flavors!

The Ferme Guyon also has an educational farm with adorable baby animals and a butterfly pavilion, which in addition to housing lepidoptera, is the habitat of Oscar, a 14-year old tortoise. I could have spent the whole day here, but shopping completed, we headed off to Cidrerie Michel Jodoin on the Rougemont Cider and Montérégie Wine Route.

Jodoin Cider…

I adore champagne and was intrigued to learn that Monsieur Jodoin had worked in France’s Champagne region in the 1980s and returned to Québec with a plan to make a sparkling wine from apples using the traditional methode champenois. His family has been in the apple orchard business for five generations, ever since Jean-Baptiste Jodoin purchased 100 apple trees in 1901. Jodoin is now the largest grower of Geneva apples in North America.

Their award-winning ciders were delicious, and we enjoyed them thoroughly with our picnic lunch in the cidery’s cellars. My favorite was Attention Ca Va Faire Pomme! It’s packaged to look like champagne and captures the wine’s characteristics right down to the perlage or tiny bubbles in the glass.

Jodoin makes several refreshing roses from apples, a broad range of fruit flavored ciders, vermouth, and non- alcoholic drinks. They became the first micro distillery in the country in 1999 and we tasted their spirits, too.

No reservations are needed to visit the Cidrerie Michel Jodoin tasting room. Visitors are welcome to enjoy their picnics outside and can access the hiking trails here. During the summer their grounds are often the site of evening entertainment.

…and More Wine

Next, we stopped into Coteau Rougemont just down the road from Jodoin, to sample their wines. The winery was quiet due to the holiday, so we enjoyed a leisurely tasting outdoors overlooking the beautiful gardens and rolling hills of Montérégie. They also sell local honey, jams and maple syrup at the winery.

Spaaaah

It was time for a break. Bonjour Québec arranged a wonderful afternoon of complete relaxation at Strom Spa Nordique. The thermal waters and serene surroundings are the draw here and we took full advantage, moving from one temperature- controlled pool to another on the recommended circuit. After several hours of blissful soaking, it was dinnertime.

The menu at Bistro Nord at the Strom Spa spotlights artfully and healthily prepared local produce and every course was both. Executive Chef Raphael Podlasiewicz came out to describe each delicious dish to us. Reservations are required at the Strom Spa Nordique locations throughout Québec and in their restaurants as well.

We spent our last night in Québec at the Hotel Rive Gauche, just 20 minutes from Montreal. The hotel is on the Richelieu River, and we were able to see a bit of the Fete de la Saint Jean fireworks launched further upstream.

Sugar Shack

Our last stop on our extraordinary epicurean adventure was a visit to Sucrerie de la Montagne. This traditional “sugar shack” has been a site for maple syrup production in Montérégie since the 1930s. It has been owned by the Faucher family since 1978.

Unlike most, this sugar shack is open all year long, not just March to April during the “sugaring off” season. Owner Steven Faucher (shown above in front of a photo of his father) showed us where and how they make syrup.

We learned how trees are tapped using a spout and bucket and the “maple water” collected and turned into syrup. It takes 40 gallons of maple water to make one gallon of light or amber (medium) syrup, and 50 gallons to make a gallon of dark syrup! Amber is the most popular grade of syrup.

How They Make It

We also visited the massive oven, which was purpose-built in 1982 for bread baking and requires two bakers working six days a week to make enough loaves to feed workers and guests during the maple sugar season.

After finishing our tour of the buildings, we settled into their popular restaurant for a hearty meal, served with maple syrup made at Sucrerie de la Montagne, of course. During lunch we were entertained by live traditional Québecois music and afterwards given a lesson in playing the spoons by our jovial and charming host. Depending on when you visit, you may even see an axe-throwing demonstration near the general store, which has a wide selection of local goods, handicrafts and maple syrup products. Some syrup and tea towels made it into my suitcase!

Southern Quebec for Summer Fun

Our journey through Southern Québec was an unending series of delight and surprise, from the gorgeous countryside to the incredible cuisine. What will really stay with me is the warmth, generosity, and hospitality of the people I met in Centre-du-Québec, the Eastern Townships and Montérégie. Despite recent political tensions between our countries, the Québecois are wonderfully welcoming. Take them up on their offer to, “Come to the Eastern Townships and hug it out!”

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you. I appreciate it!

Plan your trip here!

Fairbanks in Summer: Fun Under the Midnight Sun

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds.

The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history.

We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

Sled Dogs

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

Athabaskan Culture

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead.

Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

Athabaskan Fashion

We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.

We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

Alaskan Ingenuity

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage.

Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park.

Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Safety First

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos.

Staying in Shape

We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

If You Go

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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What To Do In Bilbao: The Basque Country’s Exciting Capital Has So More Than the Guggenheim To See

I’ve met more than a few people traveling in Spain who take a day trip to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum and then they leave. The museum is incredible both for its collections and Frank Geary’s astounding architecture, but there is so much more to experience in the Basque region’s largest and most important city.

*There is art everywhere in Bilbao! To enjoy it all you’ll need more than a day in this vibrant Basque city.*

After a quiet stay on the beautiful Costa Verde, we felt the energy of this revitalized city on arrival. We dropped our car with the valet at the centrally located Hotel Ercilla Bilbao and took a walk around to get our bearings. We couldn’t help but notice the public art, pedestrian only streets, and parks everywhere we went.

Plan your trip to Bilbao!

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

*Architect Frank Geary’s spectacular design has come to represent the city of Bilbao since the Guggenheim opened in 1997.*

We planned a four-day stay in this vibrant city and since it was at the very top of our list, had gotten tickets for the Guggenheim for our first full day in Bilbao. Tickets are timed and the museum is the number one attraction in the city. Buy your tickets online as soon as you have your dates and get them for as early in the day as you can. There is much to see, so book lunch at one of the two restaurants in the museum and you can stay all day. Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao is the more casual of the two, while the Michelin one-star Nerua offers a fine dining option.

*Jeff Koon’s* Puppy *serves as the official greeter at the Guggenheim Bilbao.*

Great Art Outside

We could see the top of the iconic building as we headed towards the Guggenheim, enjoying Bilbao’s bustling streets as we walked the short distance from our hotel. We spotted Puppy by Jeff Koons, waiting out front. People were vying for a turn to take selfies and group pictures in front of the enormous floral sculpture.

The building is spectacular—even more so in person—and there are monumental masterworks to experience even before you enter the museum. Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider called Maman, Daniel Buren’s Arcos Rojos and Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree are all outside the museum, along with the fog “sculpture” by Fujiko Nakaya that creeps out from under the building every hour.

Richard Serra

The first enormous gallery you’ll encounter inside is dedicated to Richard Serra’s site-specific work The Matter of Time. His massive steel structures spiral, snake, and defy gravity. Walking through the huge sculptures can be vertiginous, claustrophobic, even isolating, though you are hardly alone here. Feel the texture of the steel, which changes, as does the temperature. Make some noise! People were whistling and yelling to create echoes inside the sculptures. It was a sensory experience on all levels.

There’s a viewing deck above the gallery where you can take in the entire exhibition at once, something you can’t really do on the ground level. It’s fascinating to watch people going into the work, standing in the center of some of the larger pieces, moving in a single file through the narrow spaces in others, and just wandering around and enjoying it all. I could’ve spent the day just in that gallery.

*The Matter of Time appeals to all ages!*

How It’s Made

Steps from the sculpture is a smaller gallery that has models of each piece, information about Serra’s work and process, and details about the steel’s origins. We learned that only gravity is keeping these gigantic sheets of steel upright and in place! There are photos and information about other works Serra has created–many, like this one, site-specific. I was particularly taken with the history of a piece designed for the City of New York which the artist took back, after the city wanted to move the work.

Special Exhibitions

After you’ve spent some time with Richard Serra’s installation, head upstairs to the special exhibitions and the museum’s excellent permanent collection. Highlights during our visit included an extensive Miro exhibition and Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room— there was a line to enter this small room, but it was worth the wait to step inside the enchanting world she created!

Read about current exhibitions here.

The museum focuses on art from 1945 on—all modern and contemporary pieces, primarily by American artists. Works by many of the artists you’d expect, including Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Lewitt, Rothko, Oldenburg, Jackson Pollock, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Willem de Kooning, and their contemporaries are all here, along with works by other less familiar artists.

Our day at the Guggenheim Bilbao was definitely a highlight of our travels through the North of Spain.

Mercado de la Ribera

*Take time to explore the oldest covered market in the world– and have a little lunch.*

There are other iconic structures in this Basque city, some with significantly more history than the Guggenheim. Built in 1929, the Mercado de la Ribera (Erriberako Merkatura in Basque)is the largest covered market in the world and features beautiful stained-glass windows and original iron works throughout. In the heart of the old city, it is the perfect place for a quick, casual meal, snack or drink.

The ground level is a massive food hall offering just about everything—vermouth bars, coffee bars, beer bars, tapas bars, and sweets shops! We went on a busy Saturday afternoon and it was really crowded, but the lines went fast. Look around to see what appeals, order, and then grab a seat at a communal table. This is food hall dining at its best.

Upstairs you’ll find purveyors of fresh fish, produce, meats, cheeses, spices—all the things that made me wish I had a kitchen in Bilbao. There’s also a cooking school. If you’d like to take classes, reserve online here.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we set out to explore to the market and old town and it felt like everybody in Bilbao was outside enjoying the fine day. We stopped at the lively and bustling Plaza Mayor, full of cafes and shops, as you’d expect, along with kids playing soccer (and subsequently soccer balls breaking glasses), people at tables and sitting on the ground having tapas and wine, and everyone generally having a lovely time! We saw a bridal group in tutus with the maid of honor hoisting a megaphone making regular announcements—all fun to experience! Plaza Mayor is the perfect place to stop and have a drink or a coffee—and people watch.

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

While we were in the old town, we visited the beautiful Cathedral, as we do in every European city. Bilbao’s cathedral, Gothic in style, is dedicated to Saint James or Santiago, the city’s patron saint.

There’s also the much smaller Church of Saint Anton, the oldest building in Bilbao, right next to the market. Purchase a combo ticket at the Cathedral so you can visit both splendid sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes an audio guide available in seven languages, including English.

We took a 20-minute walk through an interesting and diverse neighborhood to reach the market/old town area and walked back another route, through an upscale shopping area. These very different experiences showed us two opposing sides to this Basque city.

*An American President and a musican on a busy shopping street.*

Beaux Art Museum

*Rainy days and museums were made for each other!*

Where better to spend a rainy day than a museum—or two? The Fine Arts Museum (also called Beaux Arts Museum) is the second most visited museum in Bilbao. They have an impressive collection of contemporary art, special exhibitions, and European art from the 16^th, 17th and 18th centuries.

You’ll find many well-known Spanish artists like Goya, Picasso, and Velazquez, plus others you may not have heard of, with Basque artists known for their mostly modern and contemporary works in this category. We bought tickets onsite, though if you are visiting during busy summer or holiday times, it is best to get tickets for everything online in advance.

ITSAMuseum

Also known as the Maritime Museum, ITSAMuseum surprised us by the scope of its offerings. Naturally, the focus of the museum is the sea, which has created a livelihood for so many in the area. In addition to all the seafaring/maritime themed exhibitions, artworks and even a surfing exhibit, we saw a terrific video and exhibit on Bilbao’s history and the enormous impact that the Guggenheim Museum has made on the growth and revitalization of the city.

The video also focused on the role Basque culture has played in the city’s history and development, the importance of shipping and trade, and what the future may look like for the area. You’ll see what a sad, industrial wasteland Bilbao was not so long ago, and what it took to become the beautiful, vital city that it is now.

Take a Break

There’s a bar next door if you’d like a drink and a snack. While we were visiting, they were celebrating Earth Day there. There was a band and lots of people, including families with kids, singing along to Basque songs, drinking beer (not the kids), and having a good time.

Azkuna Zentroa– Cultural Center

*Surprising art and architecture await just inside Bilbao’s Cultural Center.*

The Cultural Center –Azkuna Zentroa is worth a visit. The façade is all that remains of the original building but the Philippe Starke- designed interior is the real draw. There are three separate structures under one roof and within the walls. Eight hundred different columns were created for the building and from those, the architect chose 47 to become a part of the edifice. Each one is unique and designed from different materials.

*Free public art is on exhibit on the ground floor.*

There is art displayed in various spaces on the ground floor between the columns. Several pieces were by an artist whose work we had seen at the Fine Arts Museum. The Bilbao public library is also in the building and has free art exhibitions in addition to being a lending library. We saw a comic-themed show. There are also some small shops selling arts and artisanal goods produced by local artists and an information center on the ground floor. The building and the library are free to visit.

On the top floor, there’s a gym and a public swimming pool available to everyone. Look up and you’ll see the swimmers overhead—the pool bottom is transparent.

Practicalities: Where to Stay and Delicious Places to Eat

Ercilla Bilbao

Like every large city there are lodging options at all price points in Bilbao. We stayed at the Autograph Collection Ercilla Bilbao, which is in a great location right in the center of the city on a pedestrian shopping street. It is walking distance to all the major sites and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby. Our room was spacious (Vintage King) and overlooked a courtyard, so it was very quiet. Disclosure—I have status with Marriott/Bonvoy that gives me perks like room upgrades and free breakfast, so I often choose a hotel from the brand.

*Be sure to book a table at Ercilla’s rooftop bar, even if you’re a guest.*

The Ercilla has a great rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city—perfect for an aperitivo or an after-dinner drink! They also have light fare available. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the bar but you should make a reservation.

Restaurants We Loved

We ate extremely well in Bilbao—everywhere in the Northern Spain, in fact. As in any Spanish city, it is important to book a table unless you’re having stand up tapas. Here’s where we went in Bilbao—all different and all excellent!

La Vina del Ensanche

We had a wonderful, casual dinner our first night in Bilbao at La Vina del Ensanche. They offered a prefix menu for €45 per person along with the regular menu. We had an enormous plate of beautiful Iberian ham, fresh fish, vegetable croquettes, and two desserts.

The wine was not expensive and selections were almost all Spanish with plenty of local choices. Service was attentive and very helpful describing different dishes and assisting with wine selection. They also had a little shop with specialty food and wine you could buy to take away. This would be a great place for provisions if you had a kitchen!

Viejo Zorti

We also had an excellent dinner at Viejo Zorti, a popular upscale restaurant with a long history. We had shrimp with garlic to start, followed by a whole turbo which they presented at the table with Pil Pil sauce—you’ll see that sauce everywhere! It was a delicious meal but pricey, which we expected because the fish was “price by the kilo” but so fresh and worth every euro. The wine list was extensive and again, service was attentive and extremely helpful.

Bistro Salitre

Bistro Salitre is a lively, buzzy place catering to a younger, hipper crowd than Viejo Zorti. They had both traditional Basque dishes and updated versions of classics. It was fun on a Saturday night and they had music, too!

Serantes II

It can be hard to find a restaurant that’s open on Sunday night, so we were happy to have Serantes II reserved. This one also specializes in fish dishes and was recommended by the hotel. It was quiet and elegant and a nice respite after a day of touring.

Find your Bilbao accommodations!

We’ll Be Back

Bilbao was a city of surprises and there was more I wanted to see and do there than we could accomplish, even in four days. I’m excited to return to this beautiful Basque city of outstanding art, notable culture, rich history and exemplary cuisine!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express consent of teh publisher.

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promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thanks for your support!

Greece: Discover the Magic of Springtime on the Peloponnese Peninsula

Skip the sweltering summer heat and crazy crowds. Sunny skies, warm weather, wild flowers amidst the ancient ruins, and best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the country’s extraordinary sights make Spring the best time to travel to Greece. Our original plan was an April trip to the Greek islands. We were a month too early. Most island hotels weren’t even open yet so we chose a road trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula instead.

*We saw* *only pleasure craft in Nafplio’s beautiful harbor–several from as far away as Sweden and Wales.*

The Beautiful Seaside CIty You Probably Never Heard Of

Nafplio, Greece’s first capital city, is less than a two-hour drive from Athens. Though this charming seaside city is unfamiliar to many Americans, it’s a favorite weekend getaway for Athenians. A rich history, Venetian fort and castle, wonderful museums, and important archeological sites nearby, made it an easy choice to begin our Peloponnese adventure here.

*Sunday afternoons are perfect for a stroll and a leisurely lunch across from the Nafplio harbor.*

We chose a boutique hotel in a former sea captain’s home as our base– 3Sixty Hotel & Suites. The busy harbor, lined not with working boats, but luxury yachts and other pleasure craft, enticing shops, and open-air restaurants with fresh fish on offer, was a five-minute walk in one direction. Syntagma Square, the center of the historic old town with museums, beautiful churches and more restaurants and shops was five minutes the opposite way.

Historic Syntagma Square

*Syntagma Square is still the heart of the city. The Archeological Museum forms the Western wall of the square.*

Syntagma or Constitution Square, remains the center of public and political life in Nafplio and it was here that the citizenry rose up and demanded independence from the Ottoman Empire. There are monuments, plaques and a War Museum proudly proclaiming the important role Nafplio’s citizens played in Greece’s War of Independence throughout the city.

*You’ll find monuments to Greece’s War for Independence* all around Nafplio. The Palamidi Castle looms high above this one.

Archeological Museum

Standing in the center of the square you are surrounded by several of modern Greece’s most important buildings. There is a former mosque used as the country’s first Parliament. The homes of Greece’s first Governor, Ionnis Kapodisrias, and War of Independence hero Theodoros Koloktronis are here, too.

Nafplio’s Archeological Museum, a must-see in Nafplio is housed in a 1713 Venetian building that forms the Western side of the Square. It boasts exhibits that date back to the Paleolithic era.

*These figurines were discovered at the archeological site at Tiryns and date to 6th-5th century BC. They are part of the permanent collection at Nafplio’s Archeological Museum.*

The impressive building was originally meant as a warehouse for the Venetian fleet. Step inside and priceless antiquities await. The museum’s collections include include pottery, clay and bronze seals, and marble figurines, some more than 5,000 years old,

*This cache of 92 golden staters dates back to the early 3rd century BC.*

Clay hearths from 3,200-2,100 BC, stone and bone tools, jewelry, anthropomorphic clay figures, and some of the earliest handmade Neolithic clay vases are displayed, giving us a glimpse into what life was like back then.

*Ouch! You’ll find these iron reinforcements for sandals at the Nafplio Archeological Museum.*

While you’re in the historic center, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the pedestrian-only shopping streets. There are shops, restaurants, bakeries, and cafes to suit most tastes and budgets.

<img loading= — *After a stroll around town and some shopping, I always want ice cream. Here’s my favorite!*

A Murder in Church

Visit one of the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches. St. George’s Cathedral features both Byzantine and Venetian 16^th century architecture. Another noteworthy church is St. Spyridon on Odos Kapodisriou. The street was named for the first governor. Mr. Kapodisriou was murdered by political rivals on the threshold of the small church.

*Greece’s first governor met his untimely end at the hands of political rivals here at St. Spyradon.*

What the Conquerors Left Behind

Over the centuries the city was captured and ruled by Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Turks before Greece won independence in 1830. These conquerors have all left their mark on Nafplio’s culture, architecture and cuisine.

The Venetians

Responsible for two of Nafplio’s best known and most visible landmarks, the Venetians built the Bourtzi and Palamidi Castle. Both are open to the public. On arrival, you’ll see a small, fortified island in Nafplio’s harbor. Bourtzi means island fortress in Turkish, but it was originally named Castello dello Soglio by the Venetians who built it on the islet of St. Theodoroi in 1471 to protect the city and harbor from invading Ottomans. Take a 10-minute boat ride from the harbor to visit the Bourtzi. Extremely windy weather on the day we planned to visit kept us away.

The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece, looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks only one year after it was built, ending the Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio in 1715. The castle has spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim 999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light a candle.

Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below. Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the Castle is not accessible to mobility challenged visitors.

More to Explore

If you plan to spend several days in Nafplio and explore nearby archeological sites, buy the 20 Euro three-day combination ticket at Palamidi Castle or the Archeological Museum. It includes Mycenae Archeological Site and Museum, Byzantine Museum at Argolis (Argos), Tiryns Archeological Site, Nafplio Archeological Museum, Palamidi Castle and Asini Archeological site. We managed to see all except Asini.

Why Worry (Beads)?

*Greek worry beads, or komboloi, have been popular since the Ottomans ruled Nafplio.*

It’s common to see Greek men toying with a rhythmically clacking string of beads while they’re walking down the street, chatting with friends, dining, and pretty much anytime. These are komboloi or worry beads. Nafplio has a unique and interesting museum dedicated to them.

Komboloi Museum

Komboloi became popular during the Turkish occupation of Greece, but the use of beads for prayer, mediation, and to ward off evil can be traced to the 8^th century BC. Always strung in odd numbers, the beads are traditionally barrel shaped and made from amber, carnelian, horn, bone (buffalo and camel are popular) semi-precious stones, ivory or olive wood. Along with komboloi, the museum has a spectacular collection of beads dating from 1550 to 1950 including Muslim prayer beads brought back by the crusaders and converted to rosary beads, and Hindu and Buddhist meditation beads. No photos were allowed in the Museum.

Because Nafplio is so closely associated with komboloi, there are shops selling beads of varying quality everywhere. I liked Amber House at 12 Vos. Konstantinou, which carries locally crafted komboloi. Natural materials make the most satisfying sounds and are meant to sooth, owner Angelika told me. She had me hold several komboloi to find the most comfortable string and listen to the sounds the beads made before purchasing.

Tiryns and Hercules

*Wildflowers were blooming amidst the ruins everywhere we visited in the Peloponnesian Peninsula, like here at Tiryns.*

In 468 BC the ancient city of Tiryns was sacked by neighboring Argos. Today, wildflowers, poppies and chamomile bloom among the remaining stone foundations of the once thriving kingdom. Climb the stone steps to the upper ramparts and use your imagination to see where the palace once stood, as well as homes and shops in this community of 15,000. Fun fact: Hercules’ mother (Greeks call him Heracles), Alcmene, was the Queen of Tiryns. You’ll likely have this peaceful place all to yourself, as we did.

Mighty Mycenae and a Scandal

One of the most important archeological sites in the world is perched high between two hills 30 minutes from Nafplio. Home to the once mighty Mycenean civilization, this area of Greece has been inhabited since the 7^th millennium BC. The extensive ruins here date from the late Bronze Age (1,350 to 1,200 BC). Excavation of the vast site began in 1876, funded by a German businessman with a penchant for Homerian heroes. He was on a quest to find the burial site of King Agamemnon and he succeeded.

*These enormous stones at Mycenea are a hallmark of Cyclopsean architecture. It was thought that only creatures as great as the cyclops could have built with stones this size, not mortal men.*

The Legend

Legend has it that the conquering hero returned home from war (Agamemnon, not the German businessman) to find his wife Clytemnestra had taken up with Aegisthus, his cousin. Together they stabbed him to death in the bath, partly in revenge for sacrificing Clytemnestra’s daughter to ensure favorable winds for the Greeks as their warships sailed to Troy. The lovers are buried in giant beehive tombs, side by side, in the fields below the citadel. You’ll have to drive up the road and hike a bit to find Agamemnon’s larger, but solitary resting place. Don’t miss these ancient architectural wonders with their spectacular domes!

Walk inside Agamemnon’s phenomenal tholos, or beehive, tomb- an architectural wonder. Pieces of the sculpted facade are on display at the British Museum in London and the National Archeological Museum in Athens. Grave robbers make it impossible to know what treasures he may have been interred with.

Mycenae is on the tourist route and there were busloads the morning we visited. The often-photographed Lions Gate is at the entrance and selfie-seekers can create a bottleneck. Be prepared to be awed as you follow the pathway up through the Cyclopean walls where you’ll find the ruined palaces, temples, royal burial circles, cistern, treasury and fortifications of ancient Greece.

*Royal burial circles at Mycenae are just inside the gates. The dead were placed in vaults vertically.*

There are some paved paths at Mycenae, particularly in the beginning of the complex through the Lion’s Gate and past the royal burial circles. Further along, the path is mostly rocks and dirt with sharp pieces of marble protruding from the ground. It becomes paved again later. Much of this site is not accessible for people with mobility challenges, nor are the fields below the citadel where the beehive tombs are located.

*The famous Lions Gate is a highlight at ancient Mycenae and one of the few areas accessible for those with mobility challenges.*

Whether you visit the Mycenae Museum before or after the archeological site is personal preference. Just be sure you see it. More than 2,500 amazing treasures including fine gold works like Agamemnon’s exquisite death mask, everyday items like pottery, weapons, figurines, jewelry, and frescoes from the archeological site showcase the life and afterlife of the ancient Myceneans from the Bronze Age to the Hellenistic Era.

*Agamemnon”s death mask is just a splendid example example of the fine gold work the Mycenaens were known for.* *You’ll find it in the Mycenae Museum.*

An Ancient Healing Place

*It’s a long climb to the top of the ancient theater at Epidaurus. Known for its outstanding acoutics, it still hosts performances today. And yes, you can hear every word spoken at the bottom!*

In the ancient world, Epidaurus and the Sanctuary of Asclepius was known as a curative place. Asclepius was the most important healing god in antiquity. Today the site draws visitors primarily for its theater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its perfect acoustics. Built around 340 BC, the Greek theater, which was expanded by the Romans to seat up to 14,000, is one of the best preserved in the world and still used for performances. Climb up the steep stone steps to the top and listen to the “orators” below.

*Take time to wander through the Sanctuary of Asclepius, one of the most important healing places of the ancient world.*

After, head out to the sanctuary where you can visit temples, the gymnasium and the enkoimeteria- a large hall where visitors would sleep and wait for the gods to come to them in their dreams with health advice. There is also a small museum on the site with sculptures and other excavated artifacts.

Byzantium

*The road leading to the ancient Argos Theater, built in 320 BC, still has some of its marble pavers. Just beyond are Roman baths and the Greek Agora is across the road.*

Snakes were the only thing on my mind as we followed the groundskeeper who, armed with a weedwhacker, cleared the tall grass between placards in the ancient agora, or marketplace, at Argos. Located in the modern town, the ruins of Roman baths and the theater complex are across a busy street. They’re worth seeing, though there is little signage.

*Detail on a stela near the Argos Theater.*

The Byzantine Museum, housed in the historic Kapodistria Barracks, focuses on private, public and religious life here, from 324 AD until 1453 AD. Everyday objects, pottery, sculpture, weapons, and religious artifacts that belonged to residents of the one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world gave us a fascinating peek into the past.

*This 13th century bowl is among the everyday objects on display at the Byzantine Museum in Argos*.

Nafplio and the amazing archeological sites nearby filled us with wonder and sparked our interest in returning to this spectacular region of Greece for a deeper exploration of these ancient civilizations. Our road trip continued to Kalamata, Patras, Galaxidi, Delphi and finally, Athens—a city we could have spent a month exploring. Those who choose the Peloponnese Peninsula as their destination, as we did, will be generously rewarded. We’ll visit the islands another time!

Practicalities– Driving and More

*Driving on Greece’s main roads is easy. Mountainous, country roads are bit of a challenge but getting to explore the Peloponnese countryside is worth the effort.*

Nafplio is an easy drive from Athens, but country roads can be winding and narrow, especially in the mountains, and people drive fast. Most signage is in Greek and English but not all, so prepare by jotting down the Greek spelling for your destination, especially if it is off the main road, and bring paper maps. Most Greeks speak English, but they were tickled when we could say good morning, hello, goodbye, and thank you in their native tongue. Very few of the archeological sites we visited were accessible for people with mobility challenges.

*Nafplio was a great place to begin our exploration of the Peloponnese Peninsula. We will definitely return!*

If You Go

We stayed at 3Sixty Hotel & Suites in Nafplio. Some of our favorite restaurants were I Folio, Taverna Pidalio, Mevta, and 3Sixty Grill, all in Nafplio. Here are links to the sites we visited mentioned in this article: Archeological Museum of Nafplio, Palamidi Castle, Archeological Site and Museum at Mycenae, Archeological Site at Tiryns, Archeological Site at Argos, Byzantine Museum in Argos, Epidaurus, the Bourtzi.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I
may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support. I appreciate it!

Why Spring is a Great Time to Visit Amalfi

By mid-March, most of us in the Northern Hemisphere are tired of winter. Our thoughts turn to cloudless blue skies, tourmaline waters, and sun-dappled landscapes. Italy’s Amalfi Coast with its breathtaking views, pristine beaches, and lemons as big as your head, comes immediately to mind. Mild temperatures, a relaxed pace, and relative lack of crowds make Spring the perfect time to travel to what is considered a dream destination by many. Here’s what I discovered on my Springtime trip to Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello.

Beat the Crowds

Amalfi's seaside esplanade with tables and closed umbrella under a blue sky — *Visit Amalfi before Easter and enjoy this dream destination without the crowds.*

Easter marks the beginning of the season in Amalfi and elsewhere in Campania. We decided to visit right before the holiday, hoping to beat the crowds as we had the previous week in the seaside village of Castellabate di Santa Maria. About two hours drive south of Amalfi on the Cilento Coast, there were few tourists and many shops and restaurants remained closed during our stay. Our hotel, the Palazzo Belmonte, was in its “soft opening” period and the restaurant, pool, and beach club hadn’t opened yet but we had great fun exploring this less discovered area. After a five-night stay, Amalfi beckoned so we packed up the rental car and headed north.

sitting room with sunset view outside the window — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

large bedroom with floral printed rug, a settee with pink pillows and a king bed with red printed coverlet — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

We had barely turned on to the coastal road that winds its way across the Sorrento Peninsula, when we came nose-to-nose with an enormous city bus. I was terrified. I couldn’t even take a photo as my husband slowly backed up the narrow roadway into a spot wide enough to let the bus pass. This, I thought, is why people hire professional drivers to get around the Amalfi Coast. It was not the last time I would have this realization.

*Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

bus takes both lanes of the road around a corner — *Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

We soldiered on towards Amalfi, holding our collective breath as we inched by buses and other cars on narrow, hairpin turns. With a sigh of relief, we arrived at DieciSedici.

An Albergo Diffuso

After checking in at the reception desk, we were directed to the building next door. Though billed as a boutique hotel, DieciSedici was more of an albergo diffuso. We had unwittingly booked a room in a residential building, not a proper hotel. This kind of lodging, where “hotel” rooms can be in different buildings, or diffused, is not uncommon in Italy and is fine if you don’t need 24/7 on-site assistance.

old pink stucco residential building with a couple walking twoards it — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

hotel room with bed, desk and two windows — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

Beware the Stairs

When the receptionist mentioned there were stairs and no lift, we asked for help with the bags. Even though we travel with only carry-on bags, we were glad we did. Leo assisted us up the 64 stone steps leading to our room. As we climbed, we learned that breakfast, included with the stay, was served at the Bistro F. Illi Pansa where he worked. It was about a 10-minute walk away in the historic center.

Steep stone steps inside a residential building — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

man and donkeys walking down the street in Amalfi — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

While we settled in, the receptionist had someone from a nearby garage come and spirit our rental car away. She instructed us to call 45 minutes before we needed the car again, but discouraged us from driving in the area at all.

Our room was large, clean, and comfortable. It had a spacious bathroom with a heated towel rack, a small refrigerator, and an electric tea kettle. We could even see a sliver of the sea from our Juliette balcony. After catching our breath, we headed back down the steep steps to explore Amalfi.

The Heart of Amalfi

people gathered by an ancient fountain having a drink and filling waer bottles — *The beautiful Baroque Fountain of St. Andrew, across from Amalfi’s cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo, is a popular spot to get a drink or fill a water bottle.*

We walked along the sparkling sea front, past many restaurants not yet open for the season, and a few busily preparing for the evening’s guests. There were some pedestrians and bicyclists on the promenade but nothing like I’d seen in summertime photos.

*Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

cafe with white table clothes and women sitting at a table — *Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

After passing the transportation hub where boats to Capri and Positano, and buses to Ravello, Sorrento and other points on the peninsula arrive and depart, we entered a pedestrian tunnel. Minutes later we found ourselves on the Piazza del Duomo in the heart of Amalfi’s historic old town staring in awe at the spectacular cathedral that is the city’s centerpiece.

Amalfi’s Duomo

Cathedral of St. Andrew's Byzantine facade with golden mosaics — *The Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle’s facade is spectacular day or night.*

Built between the 9^thand 12^th centuries, the Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle is a masterwork in golden mosaics that gleam in the Mediterranean sunshine. We watched as the elegant façade with its bronze Byzantine doors drew wedding couples and their photographers, and Instagrammers galore. The restaurant where we would enjoy breakfast each morning was directly across from the cathedral, providing us with endless people-watching opportunities with our morning cappuccino.

view of the cathedral in Amalfi with people sitting and standing on the steps — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

people seated at tables in a cafe — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

After queuing for a much-needed gelato at Cioccolato Andrea Pansa, we bought tickets to visit the cathedral. It features Gothic, Romanesque, Byzantine and Arab-Norman architectural styles and is one of the most popular sites in Amalfi. Architect Enrico Alvino designed the ornately decorated facade after an 1861 collapse damaged the front and atrium of the church.

*The opulent interior of Amalfi’s duomo, dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle.*

fresco with angels and dove — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Byzantine painting of the Holy family — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Our 3 Euro visit included the Cathedral and adjoining Basilica of the Crucifix and its crypt. St. Andrews’ relics are there. There is also a small Diocesan museum with frescoes, sculpture and religious art inside the Basilica. Outside, we toured the peaceful Cloister of Paradise, once a burial ground for nobility.

Amalfi’s Famous Fruit

On our walk around town, we saw plenty of evidence of Amalfi’s number one citrus crop. Lemons, limoncello, lemon soap, lemon candles, lemon ice, lemon-embellished clothing, lemon everything was for sale everywhere. At dinner at Pizzeria Donna Stella, we had a table on the upstairs terrace. Lemons were growing overhead.

People in front of the Bottega di Limone, a shop selling lemon-based products and lemon-embellished clothes. — *Lemon everything is sold* *in towns across the Sorrento Peninsula*. Upstairs is one of my favorite restaurants, Da Gemma.

man at a table with lemon trees growing in restaurant — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

A display of various lemon-themed products and souvenirs, including bottles of limoncello, candies, and lemon-infused items, all neatly arranged in wooden crates with price tags. — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

Mistakes Were Made or How Not to Get to Pompeii

On our first full day in Amalfi, we planned to visit Pompeii. Earlier in the trip, we spent five days in Naples. From there, we took day trips by train to explore the nearby ruins in Herculaneum and spectacular palace and gardens at Reggia Caserta. We could have easily taken the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii from Naples, but thought it would be better to drive from Amalfi. It was not.

frescoes on the walls of an ancient villa in Pompeii — *We were richly rewarded with the chance to see ancient frescoes in Pompeii’s intact villas, though the drive there was harrowing.*

No one was available to bring us our car, so we made our way up the steep streets to the garage, passing sure-footed donkeys on the way. Back in our car, we drove down the narrow main street, ever so slowly, past startled shoppers, stand after stand of lemon-themed merchandise, cafes, and coffee shops until we reached the road out of town.

crowd of people waiting at Pompeii — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

teenagers with their backs to viewer wearing Maradona jerseys — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

For what seemed like an eternity, we drove up harrowing, hairpin turns around the mountain and down the other side. I was exhausted by the time we reached Pompeii, and I wasn’t even behind the wheel. It was well worth the nerve-wracking journey to explore the extensive and fascinating archeological site and we spent the entire day there. I’ll share about that experience in another article, but we should have taken the train from Naples. Or hired a driver in Amalfi.

Ravello

bronze statue of Bacchus with child holding grapes on his shoulders — *Villa Cimbrone’s gardens, my main reason for coming to Ravello, are filled with sculpture, fountains and spectacular views.*

I was not ready to get back in the car after our Pompeii outing, but had always wanted to visit the gardens at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Buses runs every half hour from Amalfi and cost 1.50 Euro each way, cash only. The decision was an easy one.

sign saying bus ticket here cash only — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

two men on a motorscooter in front of two buses that say Amalfi on them — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

Up, up, up we went on those now familiar hairpin turns, the ride accompanied by the sounds of squealing bus tires and a blaring horn warning other drivers that we were coming. Buses takes up both lanes of the narrow road so alerting others is a matter of safety.

About a half an hour later, we arrived in Ravello. We hiked through the ancient town and climbed the winding 100 steps to the celebrated Villa Cimbrone. The Villa dates to the 12^th century and has long attracted literary luminaries including members of the Bloomsbury Group like Virginia Woolf and E.M.Forster, celebrities, and bold face names such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Tennessee Williams and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

formal gardens with umbrella trees and stone wall — *Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

*Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

Someday I’d love to stay at the five- star hotel, but I’d set my sights on the botanical gardens for this visit. For 10 Euro, visitors can explore the property’s expansive English-Italo style gardens, redesigned in the early 20^th century by Lord Grimthorpe (Ernest William Beckett) with advice from celebrated English garden designer Vita Sackville-West. In March, the gardens were not in full bloom, but it was still a wonderful experience to stroll the sprawling grounds, admire the superb sculpture, and enjoy sensational views from the Terrace of Infinity high above the sea.

terrace overlooking the sea with marble statues — *Standing on the Terrace of Infinity, you’ll quickly understand how it got its name.*

There were few other visitors in Villa Cimbrone’s gardens that sunny March day, but the restaurants and cafes we passed on our way back to Ravello’s historic city center were buzzing.

The Villa Rufolo and the Ravello Festival

a view from above of gardens at Villa Rufolo — *A view of Villa Rufolo’s gardens, home to the Ravello Festival*.

Another highlight of our day in Ravello was a visit to the Villa Rufolo. It’s right off the Piazza Vescavado, the main square, and home to the acclaimed Ravello Festival that takes place every summer. The festival features world-renowned symphony orchestras, soloists, and ensembles, and will celebrate its 74^th season in 2026. The festival runs from July 4 to September 5 and is the reason Ravello refers to itself as the “City of Music”.

gardens with large palm tree and the sea in the distance — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

inside view of a large pink room with tile floors and a glass chandelier — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

Our self-guided tour included the upper rooms, Knight’s Hall, chapel, theater, cloisters, magnificent gardens and belvedere overlooking the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. We could only imagine what a memorable experience it would be to attend a performance on these spectacular grounds with the gardens and sea as a backdrop.

At the bus stop, we were surprised by the size of the crowd that had gathered. Apparently, it had been an hour or more since the last bus had appeared. One finally came 30 minutes later. Even with the wait, the crowded bus was better than driving.

Amalfi’s Maritime Museum

overview of Maritime Museum with vaulted arches and displays in glass cases — *The Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum, located in Amalfi’s Arsenal, holds 1,000 years of nautical, scientific, and cultural history.*

There’s more to see in Amalfi than the Cathedral and shops. Amalfi was once one of the most important maritime centers and trading hubs on the Mediterranean. Nearly 1,000 years of the city’s nautical, scientific, and cultural history are stored in the Arsenal, home to the Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum.

replica of blue ship with golden horse — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

small stone statue of a young man siting with hand on his head — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

The museum showcases the evolution of nautical navigation equipment including the compass. The compass is a Chinese invention but Amalfitano Flavio Gioia was once credited with its creation. It was later acknowledged to have been brought to Amalfi by sailors who had traveled to China.

One of the antique yellow compasses on display — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

night view of fountain and bronze statue of a man — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

The museum’s collections include Roman and medieval treasures, coins, and manuscripts like the Tabula de Amalpha. This important document of maritime law, written in Latin, was used until the 16^th century. Maritime equipment, art, religious artifacts, and period costumes are also on exhibit. Additional exhibitions are on display in the Salone Morelli in the Town Hall.

Amalfi also has a Paper Museum, the Museo della Carta. I would have loved to visit but ran out of time.

Positano

After too much touring and driving, we hopped on a boat for the less than 30- minute ride to Positano. With the sun shining and wind in our hair, we were finally beginning to relax and enjoy the Amalfi Coast.

*There were plenty of seats on the boat to and from Positano, not likely the case once tourist season begins.*

Positano was exactly as I imagined; soaring cliffs dotted with citrus and olive groves, vineyards, and homes perched precariously high above the sea. Our plan was to have a wander, visit a church, see the shops, and have lunch by the beach. That seemed be the itinerary for most visitors.

men moving large palm trees by the beach — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

people sitting in chairs on the beach in Positano — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

Just like in Amalfi, not everything in Positano was open yet, but would be soon. Workers were very busy preparing for the Easter weekend ahead, which officially kicks off the busy season. Shops and restaurants that had been closed all winter were being swept and windows washed. From our seaside table at Chez Black, we watched as workers erected umbrellas and set up chairs on the beach. They were even busily planting palm trees in the sand.

people eating in a cafe with striped awning that says Chez Black — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

exterior of church with small labyrinth in front of it — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

As we wandered the unexpectedly crowded streets, we saw racks of summer clothes outside in the sunshine, surrounded by shoppers. I have never seen so many lemon-embellished clothes, hats, shoes, and home décor as I did that one afternoon in Positano. After eating and drinking, shopping is a very popular pastime in Positano.

Before leaving Positano, we stopped at the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. We walked the small labyrinth outside the church and took some time in the church’s serene interior to reflect on our good fortune.

On the boat back to Amalfi, I spied a gentleman sporting a straw hat with lemon trimmed band, lemon-embroidered shirt, shorts, and espadrilles. His companion was similarly attired. He told me he was from Milwaukee and on the trip of a lifetime. He certainly had the souvenirs to show for it.

If You Go:

*The sun sets on the Tree of Life on Amalfi’s blissfully quiet esplanade before the “season” begins.*

Don’t wait for summer to travel when the number of tourists and temperatures soar.

Consider hiring a driver or using buses and boats to get around the Amalfi Coast. Driving is treacherous and not for the faint of heart. Boats and buses leave from the harbor (Porto di Amalfi) on a regular schedule or you can hire a private boat. Taxis are also readily available.

Tourism is the main industry in Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and most towns on the Sorrento Peninsula. Be prepared to pay accordingly and extravagantly for almost everything.

If you struggle with mobility issues, be aware that streets are narrow, often cobbled, and hilly. There are stairs nearly everywhere you go, inside and outside.

Practicalities: Where to Eat, Where to Stay in Amalfi

We enjoyed our daily gelato stop at Ciocolatta Andrea Pansa, breakfast at Bistro F. Illi Pansa (included with our room rate), and dinners at Da Gemma, Ristorante L’Abside, and Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi. Antica Trattoria Barracca also came highly recommended and it was good, but we liked the others more.

We chose Amalfi as our base to explore the Sorrento Peninsula with the exception of two nights in Sorrento. We stayed at the Hilton Sorrento Palace before returning to Naples for a flight to Sicily. If you don’t mind climbing many steep stairs and don’t need a front desk with 24-hour assistance, DieciSedici is well-located. There are hotels at varying price points and levels of service, including some luxury properties like La Sirenuse, Il San Pietro di Positano, and Hotel Eden Roc all in Positano, plus Air BnBs, to choose from throughout the peninsula. Make your reservations far in advance, no matter when you plan to visit this popular destination.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

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