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How to Have a Wellness Weekend in the Black Forest

fall foliage surrounds a pond with ducks

The charming German town of Badenweiler in the foothills of the Black Forest has been drawing wellness seekers for millennia. They come for the healing, mineral-rich waters to relax and find relief for everything from stress to rheumatism. A tradition since the Romans were here, we devoted our weekend in Badenweiler to bathing, both ancient and modern.

inside ancient Roman ruins of a bathing complex — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

signage about the romans who built these baths — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

In addition to lovely, wooded scenery, hiking trails, and the thermal waters that flow from under the Black Forest, Badenweiler boasts some of the most expansive and best-preserved Roman baths north of the Alps. We were excited to visit them. We followed a small group of people down a leafy walkway into a public park. There we found the glass pavilion that protects this archeological wonder. We paid 3 euro each to pass through the turnstile and travel back in time, way back.

Roman Rituals

The extraordinary 2,000-year-old ruins include the caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Our guide, Dominick, explained the hot, tepid, and cold baths were visited in that order. Cold plunges, popular today, are nothing new. Thousands of years ago the ancient Romans were well-versed in the therapeutic benefits of thermal waters of varying temperatures.

Community baths played an important role in Roman life. They were used not just to bathe, but also to socialize and keep up on politics and local news. Their baths also often included steam rooms and relaxing areas for this reason.

Ruins of a Roman bath complex — *The extensive bathing complex is one of the best preserved n*orth of the Alps.

Roman sculpture, grooming aids, and even a replica of typical Roman wooden bathing shoes are among the exhibits inside the pavilion. These platform sandals protected bathers’ feet from the hot floors inside the caldarium. Dominick was brimming with historical and entertaining facts about the Romans who settled in this part of Germany and built this elaborate bathing complex.

ancient pipes used in the bathing complex — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Replica of Roman bathing shoes — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Roman soldiers were often paid in land and encouraged to settle permanently in the areas they had been sent to conquer. This was the case in Badenweiler. Settler soldiers built these baths to enjoy the same rituals and amenities they would have enjoyed at home. Badenweiler’s healing thermal waters likely made these even more appealing.

Take the Tour

man in front of informational panels — *Our guide helped bring the ancient ruins to life. He gave the tour and answered questions in German and English.*

Visitors walk through and over the remarkable ruins on accessible walkways and have a bird’s eye view of all areas of the baths. Our guide explained the significance of each area in both German and English. Everyone in our small group spoke one or the other language. After a very informative hour-long walk through the Roman complex, Dominick led us out into the park surrounding the baths.

walkway over ancient ruins in the glass pavilion — *Walkways over and through the ruins make the complex accessible to all.*

Using our mobile phones to light the way we ducked through a small doorway, one by one. Dark and dank, we had entered a recreated ancient Roman drainage channel which had originally served the baths in this very spot. It was constructed in 1998. What a relief it was to return to sunlight after a short time inside the channel.

people exiting a tunnel — *The reconstructed subterranean drainage channel* *shows what masters of architecture the Romans were.*

It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but self-guided visits do not include the drainage channel, well worth seeing, or the wonderful stories Dominick shared that sparked our imagination and brought the distant past to life.

Modern Baths

After exiting the drainage tunnel, we looked up and saw people relaxing on chaise lounges on a broad terrace overlooking the park. They were enjoying the popular Cassiopeia Therme. Next door to the ancient Roman ruins, the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths draw visitors and locals alike to the healing waters within. The modern baths are housed in an impressive classical-style building.

Classical -style building with signage for Cassiopeia Therme — *The Cassiopeia Therme is a popular attraction in Badenweiler and can get crowded on weekends and holidays.*

Guests at these public baths enjoy the same thermal waters the Romans did, in a series of pools of varying temperatures and sizes indoors and out. Temperatures range from 30 to 36 degrees Celsius and are seasonally adjusted. Families, couples young and old, and this pair of American wanderers settled in for a relaxing afternoon in the healing waters.

Don’t Forget Your Towel

people waiting inside a large rotunda building — *People waited patiently to check in for an afternoon at the Cassiopeia Thermal Ba*ths.

This was our first experience in a public bath house. As we queued for entry, we realized we had already made a mistake not bringing towels from our hotel. Everyone else, we noticed, came equipped for the day with shower shoes, robes and towels. We had brought flip flops and swimsuits, but had to rent towels. We must not have been the only ones unprepared. Bathrobes, shower towels and sauna towels were available to rent at registration.

long hallway inside the Cassiopeia Therme — *A long hallway led to the gender-specific locker rooms. The rest of the facility is co-ed.*

Off to the changing rooms we went, locker keys in hand. The changing rooms had large lockers, restrooms, and showers. The faint sulfurous aroma of thermal waters wafted through the humid air as we approached the bathing areas.

No Lazy River

Though the day was overcast and a little cool, we headed to the large heated outdoor pool. People of all ages were clearly enjoying themselves. We saw couples floating hand-in-hand, kids leaping from their parents’ arms, and teenagers racing one another around the pool.

overview of large outdoor pool — *The giant whirlpool was a lot of fun and one of our favorite activities. Photo courtesy of Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH.*

There was a vast, oversized whirlpool at one end of the outdoor pool complex. We jumped in and let the water carry us, trying not to bump the other bathers as we circled, laughing as we moved through the swirling current. This was no lazy-river experience. We quickly figured out we would need an exit strategy to escape the strong current, but it was so much fun, we stayed in the fast-moving water for about a half an hour.

Take a Dip

There were many other pools to sample, so we held hands and made for one of the handles on the side of the pool. It took a few attempts, but we finally grabbed hold and swam out. After a dip at the other end of the huge outdoor pool, we headed indoors. There were a series of smaller pools inside on the ground level. Each had different depths and temperatures that were clearly posted. The smaller and shallower pools were popular (and populated) with young children. We avoided those. After exploring the options, we made a circuit from hottest to coolest pool and repeated it several times.

There were chairs and lounges around all the pools, indoors and out. Just like at home, people had “reserved” their chairs with towels and personal property. We took a short break on the comfortable lounges and enjoyed the view of the park outside.

Sauna Time

signage for thermal baths — *Signs outside the Cassiopeia thermal baths let guests know what to expect inside, including a wellness oasis.*

After enjoying almost all the pools on the ground level, we walked past the busy café and headed upstairs to the sauna area. We had become aufguss enthusiasts during our recent stay at the Adler Balance in Italy’s Dolomites and were looking forward to experiencing Cassiopeia’s saunas.

As we climbed the stairs, we noticed we were heading for an adults-only zone as well as a “textile free” area. This was a relatively new term to us and means simply, no swimsuits (or any other garments) allowed. The policy was evident in the large co-ed pool adjacent to the saunas, where naked bathers swam and floated, blissfully unencumbered by swimwear or self-consciousness.

Textile Free Zone

Another patron, perhaps sensing my foreignness, or hesitation, tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to the sign above the sauna, in German and English, when I failed to disrobe quickly enough. She may have thought I planned to enter the sauna in a swimsuit, which I knew was just not done.

signs inside the baths indicate different services — *These signs advertise the thermal baths and Roman-Irish bath*, *also in the textile free zone.*

Leaving our inhibitions and our swimsuits at the sauna door, we stepped out of our pool shoes and into the least hot (coolest would be a misnomer) of the units first. Cassiopeia has a range of saunas from 55 to 90 degrees Celsius. They include aroma, herbal, Finnish, crystal and infusion saunas.

There is also a Roman-Irish bath in the textile-free zone. That would have been a new experience for us but it was not available during our visit. There was plenty to keep us busy without it.

As we had learned at the Adler, a cold plunge or shower is a must after a sauna, especially if you are hopping back into another, even hotter one, as we were. Sauna, shower, repeat, was our plan. We both decided we enjoyed the hotter saunas and spent most of our time there. Interestingly, the saunas had little windows with a view of the pool. After several times in and out, we checked the posted schedule to see if aufguss was available.

The Aufguss Experience

Aufguss is a super-heated sauna experience usually enhanced by aromatherapy and music. It is led by an athletic (in my experience) and specially trained aufguss meister. Using towels and large handheld fans, the aufguss meister directs the hot air around the chamber and melts aroma-containing ice balls emitting scents ranging from relaxing pine forest to uplifting citrus into the sauna. Sadly, we had already missed the aufguss sessions scheduled for the day.

Glowing from our swim and sauna, and fully relaxed, we headed back to the locker room to shower and bid farewell to the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths. Our ancient and modern bathing experiences in Badenweiler were memorable. We’d return to Cassiopeia Therme in a heartbeat, this time with our own towels and robes.

If You Go

Roman Baths

glass pavilion over roman ruins in a park setting — *Take the guided tour to fully appreciate these extraordinary 2,000 year-old Roman baths.*

Tours of the ancient bathing complex are offered Sunday mornings at 11 throughout the year, with an additional one on Tuesdays at 4 pm during summer months. It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but we felt ours added a great deal to our visit.

There is signage, but in German only. Our guide was very helpful and we also used Google Translate to decipher many of the signs. The tour inside the pavilion is accessible to all, but the underground channel is not. Tour group size is limited. Book in advance.

Modern Baths

sign with historical information about the baths — *SIgnage shows how the Cassiopeia Therme has been modernized over its long history.*

Public baths are very popular in the Black Forest and Sunday is a busy day for them, as we learned first-hand. Guests of all ages from toddlers to octogenarians enjoy their time there. Bring your swimsuit, shower shoes, a robe, and a towel. Leave jewelry and valuables in your hotel’s safe. You will need a credit card or other payment method for your day pass, any food or beverages, and towel rental if you forget your own.

Be prepared to shed your swimwear and inhibitions at the sauna door and anywhere you see signs indicating “textile free” areas.

If you plan to shower in the locker rooms, bring your own grooming products.

The Cassiopeia Baths have a café for light meals and beverages. There is a lovely terrace overlooking the grounds and the Roman baths you can relax on.

We were guests of the Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH for the Roman Baths tour and visit to Casseopeia Therme.

Sleeping and Eating

Schwartzmatt Hotel

large yellow hotel building — *The Hotel Schwarzmatt made a great base for exploring the Black Forest and Badenweiler.*

We stayed in Badenweiler at the very comfortable Hotel Schwartzmatt, a member of the luxury Relais & Chateau group. We opted for half-board as our stay was in low season and many restaurants in town were not open. The hotel restaurant, which served a varied and delicious menu focusing on local dishes, was open only to hotel guests in late autumn. There were a few coffee shops and boutiques open in town, but it was quiet. Summer is the busy season here.

Wellness Oasis

The Hotel Schwarzmatt has a “wellness oasis” featuring a steam bath, Finnish and Bio saunas, an indoor pool, a sun pavilion and terrace. The spa offers massages and other treatments and there is a fitness room. These facilities are only available to hotel guests. We didn’t have time for any treatments but enjoyed the steam room, saunas and pool.

Written and photographed (I could not take photos in the baths for obvious reasons) by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Why Spring is a Great Time to Visit Amalfi

By mid-March, most of us in the Northern Hemisphere are tired of winter. Our thoughts turn to cloudless blue skies, tourmaline waters, and sun-dappled landscapes. Italy’s Amalfi Coast with its breathtaking views, pristine beaches, and lemons as big as your head, comes immediately to mind. Mild temperatures, a relaxed pace, and relative lack of crowds make Spring the perfect time to travel to what is considered a dream destination by many. Here’s what I discovered on my Springtime trip to Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello.

Beat the Crowds

Amalfi's seaside esplanade with tables and closed umbrella under a blue sky — *Visit Amalfi before Easter and enjoy this dream destination without the crowds.*

Easter marks the beginning of the season in Amalfi and elsewhere in Campania. We decided to visit right before the holiday, hoping to beat the crowds as we had the previous week in the seaside village of Castellabate di Santa Maria. About two hours drive south of Amalfi on the Cilento Coast, there were few tourists and many shops and restaurants remained closed during our stay. Our hotel, the Palazzo Belmonte, was in its “soft opening” period and the restaurant, pool, and beach club hadn’t opened yet but we had great fun exploring this less discovered area. After a five-night stay, Amalfi beckoned so we packed up the rental car and headed north.

sitting room with sunset view outside the window — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

large bedroom with floral printed rug, a settee with pink pillows and a king bed with red printed coverlet — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

We had barely turned on to the coastal road that winds its way across the Sorrento Peninsula, when we came nose-to-nose with an enormous city bus. I was terrified. I couldn’t even take a photo as my husband slowly backed up the narrow roadway into a spot wide enough to let the bus pass. This, I thought, is why people hire professional drivers to get around the Amalfi Coast. It was not the last time I would have this realization.

*Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

bus takes both lanes of the road around a corner — *Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

We soldiered on towards Amalfi, holding our collective breath as we inched by buses and other cars on narrow, hairpin turns. With a sigh of relief, we arrived at DieciSedici.

An Albergo Diffuso

After checking in at the reception desk, we were directed to the building next door. Though billed as a boutique hotel, DieciSedici was more of an albergo diffuso. We had unwittingly booked a room in a residential building, not a proper hotel. This kind of lodging, where “hotel” rooms can be in different buildings, or diffused, is not uncommon in Italy and is fine if you don’t need 24/7 on-site assistance.

old pink stucco residential building with a couple walking twoards it — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

hotel room with bed, desk and two windows — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

Beware the Stairs

When the receptionist mentioned there were stairs and no lift, we asked for help with the bags. Even though we travel with only carry-on bags, we were glad we did. Leo assisted us up the 64 stone steps leading to our room. As we climbed, we learned that breakfast, included with the stay, was served at the Bistro F. Illi Pansa where he worked. It was about a 10-minute walk away in the historic center.

Steep stone steps inside a residential building — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

man and donkeys walking down the street in Amalfi — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

While we settled in, the receptionist had someone from a nearby garage come and spirit our rental car away. She instructed us to call 45 minutes before we needed the car again, but discouraged us from driving in the area at all.

Our room was large, clean, and comfortable. It had a spacious bathroom with a heated towel rack, a small refrigerator, and an electric tea kettle. We could even see a sliver of the sea from our Juliette balcony. After catching our breath, we headed back down the steep steps to explore Amalfi.

The Heart of Amalfi

people gathered by an ancient fountain having a drink and filling waer bottles — *The beautiful Baroque Fountain of St. Andrew, across from Amalfi’s cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo, is a popular spot to get a drink or fill a water bottle.*

We walked along the sparkling sea front, past many restaurants not yet open for the season, and a few busily preparing for the evening’s guests. There were some pedestrians and bicyclists on the promenade but nothing like I’d seen in summertime photos.

*Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

cafe with white table clothes and women sitting at a table — *Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

After passing the transportation hub where boats to Capri and Positano, and buses to Ravello, Sorrento and other points on the peninsula arrive and depart, we entered a pedestrian tunnel. Minutes later we found ourselves on the Piazza del Duomo in the heart of Amalfi’s historic old town staring in awe at the spectacular cathedral that is the city’s centerpiece.

Amalfi’s Duomo

Cathedral of St. Andrew's Byzantine facade with golden mosaics — *The Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle’s facade is spectacular day or night.*

Built between the 9^thand 12^th centuries, the Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle is a masterwork in golden mosaics that gleam in the Mediterranean sunshine. We watched as the elegant façade with its bronze Byzantine doors drew wedding couples and their photographers, and Instagrammers galore. The restaurant where we would enjoy breakfast each morning was directly across from the cathedral, providing us with endless people-watching opportunities with our morning cappuccino.

view of the cathedral in Amalfi with people sitting and standing on the steps — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

people seated at tables in a cafe — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

After queuing for a much-needed gelato at Cioccolato Andrea Pansa, we bought tickets to visit the cathedral. It features Gothic, Romanesque, Byzantine and Arab-Norman architectural styles and is one of the most popular sites in Amalfi. Architect Enrico Alvino designed the ornately decorated facade after an 1861 collapse damaged the front and atrium of the church.

*The opulent interior of Amalfi’s duomo, dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle.*

fresco with angels and dove — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Byzantine painting of the Holy family — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Our 3 Euro visit included the Cathedral and adjoining Basilica of the Crucifix and its crypt. St. Andrews’ relics are there. There is also a small Diocesan museum with frescoes, sculpture and religious art inside the Basilica. Outside, we toured the peaceful Cloister of Paradise, once a burial ground for nobility.

Amalfi’s Famous Fruit

On our walk around town, we saw plenty of evidence of Amalfi’s number one citrus crop. Lemons, limoncello, lemon soap, lemon candles, lemon ice, lemon-embellished clothing, lemon everything was for sale everywhere. At dinner at Pizzeria Donna Stella, we had a table on the upstairs terrace. Lemons were growing overhead.

People in front of the Bottega di Limone, a shop selling lemon-based products and lemon-embellished clothes. — *Lemon everything is sold* *in towns across the Sorrento Peninsula*. Upstairs is one of my favorite restaurants, Da Gemma.

man at a table with lemon trees growing in restaurant — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

A display of various lemon-themed products and souvenirs, including bottles of limoncello, candies, and lemon-infused items, all neatly arranged in wooden crates with price tags. — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

Mistakes Were Made or How Not to Get to Pompeii

On our first full day in Amalfi, we planned to visit Pompeii. Earlier in the trip, we spent five days in Naples. From there, we took day trips by train to explore the nearby ruins in Herculaneum and spectacular palace and gardens at Reggia Caserta. We could have easily taken the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii from Naples, but thought it would be better to drive from Amalfi. It was not.

frescoes on the walls of an ancient villa in Pompeii — *We were richly rewarded with the chance to see ancient frescoes in Pompeii’s intact villas, though the drive there was harrowing.*

No one was available to bring us our car, so we made our way up the steep streets to the garage, passing sure-footed donkeys on the way. Back in our car, we drove down the narrow main street, ever so slowly, past startled shoppers, stand after stand of lemon-themed merchandise, cafes, and coffee shops until we reached the road out of town.

crowd of people waiting at Pompeii — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

teenagers with their backs to viewer wearing Maradona jerseys — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

For what seemed like an eternity, we drove up harrowing, hairpin turns around the mountain and down the other side. I was exhausted by the time we reached Pompeii, and I wasn’t even behind the wheel. It was well worth the nerve-wracking journey to explore the extensive and fascinating archeological site and we spent the entire day there. I’ll share about that experience in another article, but we should have taken the train from Naples. Or hired a driver in Amalfi.

Ravello

bronze statue of Bacchus with child holding grapes on his shoulders — *Villa Cimbrone’s gardens, my main reason for coming to Ravello, are filled with sculpture, fountains and spectacular views.*

I was not ready to get back in the car after our Pompeii outing, but had always wanted to visit the gardens at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Buses runs every half hour from Amalfi and cost 1.50 Euro each way, cash only. The decision was an easy one.

sign saying bus ticket here cash only — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

two men on a motorscooter in front of two buses that say Amalfi on them — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

Up, up, up we went on those now familiar hairpin turns, the ride accompanied by the sounds of squealing bus tires and a blaring horn warning other drivers that we were coming. Buses takes up both lanes of the narrow road so alerting others is a matter of safety.

About a half an hour later, we arrived in Ravello. We hiked through the ancient town and climbed the winding 100 steps to the celebrated Villa Cimbrone. The Villa dates to the 12^th century and has long attracted literary luminaries including members of the Bloomsbury Group like Virginia Woolf and E.M.Forster, celebrities, and bold face names such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Tennessee Williams and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

formal gardens with umbrella trees and stone wall — *Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

*Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

Someday I’d love to stay at the five- star hotel, but I’d set my sights on the botanical gardens for this visit. For 10 Euro, visitors can explore the property’s expansive English-Italo style gardens, redesigned in the early 20^th century by Lord Grimthorpe (Ernest William Beckett) with advice from celebrated English garden designer Vita Sackville-West. In March, the gardens were not in full bloom, but it was still a wonderful experience to stroll the sprawling grounds, admire the superb sculpture, and enjoy sensational views from the Terrace of Infinity high above the sea.

terrace overlooking the sea with marble statues — *Standing on the Terrace of Infinity, you’ll quickly understand how it got its name.*

There were few other visitors in Villa Cimbrone’s gardens that sunny March day, but the restaurants and cafes we passed on our way back to Ravello’s historic city center were buzzing.

The Villa Rufolo and the Ravello Festival

a view from above of gardens at Villa Rufolo — *A view of Villa Rufolo’s gardens, home to the Ravello Festival*.

Another highlight of our day in Ravello was a visit to the Villa Rufolo. It’s right off the Piazza Vescavado, the main square, and home to the acclaimed Ravello Festival that takes place every summer. The festival features world-renowned symphony orchestras, soloists, and ensembles, and will celebrate its 74^th season in 2026. The festival runs from July 4 to September 5 and is the reason Ravello refers to itself as the “City of Music”.

gardens with large palm tree and the sea in the distance — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

inside view of a large pink room with tile floors and a glass chandelier — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

Our self-guided tour included the upper rooms, Knight’s Hall, chapel, theater, cloisters, magnificent gardens and belvedere overlooking the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. We could only imagine what a memorable experience it would be to attend a performance on these spectacular grounds with the gardens and sea as a backdrop.

At the bus stop, we were surprised by the size of the crowd that had gathered. Apparently, it had been an hour or more since the last bus had appeared. One finally came 30 minutes later. Even with the wait, the crowded bus was better than driving.

Amalfi’s Maritime Museum

overview of Maritime Museum with vaulted arches and displays in glass cases — *The Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum, located in Amalfi’s Arsenal, holds 1,000 years of nautical, scientific, and cultural history.*

There’s more to see in Amalfi than the Cathedral and shops. Amalfi was once one of the most important maritime centers and trading hubs on the Mediterranean. Nearly 1,000 years of the city’s nautical, scientific, and cultural history are stored in the Arsenal, home to the Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum.

replica of blue ship with golden horse — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

small stone statue of a young man siting with hand on his head — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

The museum showcases the evolution of nautical navigation equipment including the compass. The compass is a Chinese invention but Amalfitano Flavio Gioia was once credited with its creation. It was later acknowledged to have been brought to Amalfi by sailors who had traveled to China.

One of the antique yellow compasses on display — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

night view of fountain and bronze statue of a man — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

The museum’s collections include Roman and medieval treasures, coins, and manuscripts like the Tabula de Amalpha. This important document of maritime law, written in Latin, was used until the 16^th century. Maritime equipment, art, religious artifacts, and period costumes are also on exhibit. Additional exhibitions are on display in the Salone Morelli in the Town Hall.

Amalfi also has a Paper Museum, the Museo della Carta. I would have loved to visit but ran out of time.

Positano

After too much touring and driving, we hopped on a boat for the less than 30- minute ride to Positano. With the sun shining and wind in our hair, we were finally beginning to relax and enjoy the Amalfi Coast.

*There were plenty of seats on the boat to and from Positano, not likely the case once tourist season begins.*

Positano was exactly as I imagined; soaring cliffs dotted with citrus and olive groves, vineyards, and homes perched precariously high above the sea. Our plan was to have a wander, visit a church, see the shops, and have lunch by the beach. That seemed be the itinerary for most visitors.

men moving large palm trees by the beach — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

people sitting in chairs on the beach in Positano — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

Just like in Amalfi, not everything in Positano was open yet, but would be soon. Workers were very busy preparing for the Easter weekend ahead, which officially kicks off the busy season. Shops and restaurants that had been closed all winter were being swept and windows washed. From our seaside table at Chez Black, we watched as workers erected umbrellas and set up chairs on the beach. They were even busily planting palm trees in the sand.

people eating in a cafe with striped awning that says Chez Black — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

exterior of church with small labyrinth in front of it — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

As we wandered the unexpectedly crowded streets, we saw racks of summer clothes outside in the sunshine, surrounded by shoppers. I have never seen so many lemon-embellished clothes, hats, shoes, and home décor as I did that one afternoon in Positano. After eating and drinking, shopping is a very popular pastime in Positano.

Before leaving Positano, we stopped at the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. We walked the small labyrinth outside the church and took some time in the church’s serene interior to reflect on our good fortune.

On the boat back to Amalfi, I spied a gentleman sporting a straw hat with lemon trimmed band, lemon-embroidered shirt, shorts, and espadrilles. His companion was similarly attired. He told me he was from Milwaukee and on the trip of a lifetime. He certainly had the souvenirs to show for it.

If You Go:

*The sun sets on the Tree of Life on Amalfi’s blissfully quiet esplanade before the “season” begins.*

Don’t wait for summer to travel when the number of tourists and temperatures soar.

Consider hiring a driver or using buses and boats to get around the Amalfi Coast. Driving is treacherous and not for the faint of heart. Boats and buses leave from the harbor (Porto di Amalfi) on a regular schedule or you can hire a private boat. Taxis are also readily available.

Tourism is the main industry in Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and most towns on the Sorrento Peninsula. Be prepared to pay accordingly and extravagantly for almost everything.

If you struggle with mobility issues, be aware that streets are narrow, often cobbled, and hilly. There are stairs nearly everywhere you go, inside and outside.

Practicalities: Where to Eat, Where to Stay in Amalfi

We enjoyed our daily gelato stop at Ciocolatta Andrea Pansa, breakfast at Bistro F. Illi Pansa (included with our room rate), and dinners at Da Gemma, Ristorante L’Abside, and Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi. Antica Trattoria Barracca also came highly recommended and it was good, but we liked the others more.

We chose Amalfi as our base to explore the Sorrento Peninsula with the exception of two nights in Sorrento. We stayed at the Hilton Sorrento Palace before returning to Naples for a flight to Sicily. If you don’t mind climbing many steep stairs and don’t need a front desk with 24-hour assistance, DieciSedici is well-located. There are hotels at varying price points and levels of service, including some luxury properties like La Sirenuse, Il San Pietro di Positano, and Hotel Eden Roc all in Positano, plus Air BnBs, to choose from throughout the peninsula. Make your reservations far in advance, no matter when you plan to visit this popular destination.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Greece: Discover the Magic of Springtime on the Peloponnese Peninsula

Skip the sweltering summer heat and crazy crowds. Sunny skies, warm weather, wild flowers amidst the ancient ruins, and best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the country’s extraordinary sights make Spring the best time to travel to Greece. Our original plan was an April trip to the Greek islands. We were a month too early. Most island hotels weren’t even open yet so we chose a road trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula instead.

*We saw* *only pleasure craft in Nafplio’s beautiful harbor–several from as far away as Sweden and Wales.*

The Beautiful Seaside CIty You Probably Never Heard Of

Nafplio, Greece’s first capital city, is less than a two-hour drive from Athens. Though this charming seaside city is unfamiliar to many Americans, it’s a favorite weekend getaway for Athenians. A rich history, Venetian fort and castle, wonderful museums, and important archeological sites nearby, made it an easy choice to begin our Peloponnese adventure here.

*Sunday afternoons are perfect for a stroll and a leisurely lunch across from the Nafplio harbor.*

We chose a boutique hotel in a former sea captain’s home as our base– 3Sixty Hotel & Suites. The busy harbor, lined not with working boats, but luxury yachts and other pleasure craft, enticing shops, and open-air restaurants with fresh fish on offer, was a five-minute walk in one direction. Syntagma Square, the center of the historic old town with museums, beautiful churches and more restaurants and shops was five minutes the opposite way.

Historic Syntagma Square

*Syntagma Square is still the heart of the city. The Archeological Museum forms the Western wall of the square.*

Syntagma or Constitution Square, remains the center of public and political life in Nafplio and it was here that the citizenry rose up and demanded independence from the Ottoman Empire. There are monuments, plaques and a War Museum proudly proclaiming the important role Nafplio’s citizens played in Greece’s War of Independence throughout the city.

*You’ll find monuments to Greece’s War for Independence* all around Nafplio. The Palamidi Castle looms high above this one.

Archeological Museum

Standing in the center of the square you are surrounded by several of modern Greece’s most important buildings. There is a former mosque used as the country’s first Parliament. The homes of Greece’s first Governor, Ionnis Kapodisrias, and War of Independence hero Theodoros Koloktronis are here, too.

Nafplio’s Archeological Museum, a must-see in Nafplio is housed in a 1713 Venetian building that forms the Western side of the Square. It boasts exhibits that date back to the Paleolithic era.

*These figurines were discovered at the archeological site at Tiryns and date to 6th-5th century BC. They are part of the permanent collection at Nafplio’s Archeological Museum.*

The impressive building was originally meant as a warehouse for the Venetian fleet. Step inside and priceless antiquities await. The museum’s collections include include pottery, clay and bronze seals, and marble figurines, some more than 5,000 years old,

*This cache of 92 golden staters dates back to the early 3rd century BC.*

Clay hearths from 3,200-2,100 BC, stone and bone tools, jewelry, anthropomorphic clay figures, and some of the earliest handmade Neolithic clay vases are displayed, giving us a glimpse into what life was like back then.

*Ouch! You’ll find these iron reinforcements for sandals at the Nafplio Archeological Museum.*

While you’re in the historic center, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the pedestrian-only shopping streets. There are shops, restaurants, bakeries, and cafes to suit most tastes and budgets.

<img loading= — *After a stroll around town and some shopping, I always want ice cream. Here’s my favorite!*

A Murder in Church

Visit one of the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches. St. George’s Cathedral features both Byzantine and Venetian 16^th century architecture. Another noteworthy church is St. Spyridon on Odos Kapodisriou. The street was named for the first governor. Mr. Kapodisriou was murdered by political rivals on the threshold of the small church.

*Greece’s first governor met his untimely end at the hands of political rivals here at St. Spyradon.*

What the Conquerors Left Behind

Over the centuries the city was captured and ruled by Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Turks before Greece won independence in 1830. These conquerors have all left their mark on Nafplio’s culture, architecture and cuisine.

The Venetians

Responsible for two of Nafplio’s best known and most visible landmarks, the Venetians built the Bourtzi and Palamidi Castle. Both are open to the public. On arrival, you’ll see a small, fortified island in Nafplio’s harbor. Bourtzi means island fortress in Turkish, but it was originally named Castello dello Soglio by the Venetians who built it on the islet of St. Theodoroi in 1471 to protect the city and harbor from invading Ottomans. Take a 10-minute boat ride from the harbor to visit the Bourtzi. Extremely windy weather on the day we planned to visit kept us away.

The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece, looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks only one year after it was built, ending the Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio in 1715. The castle has spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim 999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light a candle.

Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below. Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the Castle is not accessible to mobility challenged visitors.

More to Explore

If you plan to spend several days in Nafplio and explore nearby archeological sites, buy the 20 Euro three-day combination ticket at Palamidi Castle or the Archeological Museum. It includes Mycenae Archeological Site and Museum, Byzantine Museum at Argolis (Argos), Tiryns Archeological Site, Nafplio Archeological Museum, Palamidi Castle and Asini Archeological site. We managed to see all except Asini.

Why Worry (Beads)?

*Greek worry beads, or komboloi, have been popular since the Ottomans ruled Nafplio.*

It’s common to see Greek men toying with a rhythmically clacking string of beads while they’re walking down the street, chatting with friends, dining, and pretty much anytime. These are komboloi or worry beads. Nafplio has a unique and interesting museum dedicated to them.

Komboloi Museum

Komboloi became popular during the Turkish occupation of Greece, but the use of beads for prayer, mediation, and to ward off evil can be traced to the 8^th century BC. Always strung in odd numbers, the beads are traditionally barrel shaped and made from amber, carnelian, horn, bone (buffalo and camel are popular) semi-precious stones, ivory or olive wood. Along with komboloi, the museum has a spectacular collection of beads dating from 1550 to 1950 including Muslim prayer beads brought back by the crusaders and converted to rosary beads, and Hindu and Buddhist meditation beads. No photos were allowed in the Museum.

Because Nafplio is so closely associated with komboloi, there are shops selling beads of varying quality everywhere. I liked Amber House at 12 Vos. Konstantinou, which carries locally crafted komboloi. Natural materials make the most satisfying sounds and are meant to sooth, owner Angelika told me. She had me hold several komboloi to find the most comfortable string and listen to the sounds the beads made before purchasing.

Tiryns and Hercules

*Wildflowers were blooming amidst the ruins everywhere we visited in the Peloponnesian Peninsula, like here at Tiryns.*

In 468 BC the ancient city of Tiryns was sacked by neighboring Argos. Today, wildflowers, poppies and chamomile bloom among the remaining stone foundations of the once thriving kingdom. Climb the stone steps to the upper ramparts and use your imagination to see where the palace once stood, as well as homes and shops in this community of 15,000. Fun fact: Hercules’ mother (Greeks call him Heracles), Alcmene, was the Queen of Tiryns. You’ll likely have this peaceful place all to yourself, as we did.

Mighty Mycenae and a Scandal

One of the most important archeological sites in the world is perched high between two hills 30 minutes from Nafplio. Home to the once mighty Mycenean civilization, this area of Greece has been inhabited since the 7^th millennium BC. The extensive ruins here date from the late Bronze Age (1,350 to 1,200 BC). Excavation of the vast site began in 1876, funded by a German businessman with a penchant for Homerian heroes. He was on a quest to find the burial site of King Agamemnon and he succeeded.

*These enormous stones at Mycenea are a hallmark of Cyclopsean architecture. It was thought that only creatures as great as the cyclops could have built with stones this size, not mortal men.*

The Legend

Legend has it that the conquering hero returned home from war (Agamemnon, not the German businessman) to find his wife Clytemnestra had taken up with Aegisthus, his cousin. Together they stabbed him to death in the bath, partly in revenge for sacrificing Clytemnestra’s daughter to ensure favorable winds for the Greeks as their warships sailed to Troy. The lovers are buried in giant beehive tombs, side by side, in the fields below the citadel. You’ll have to drive up the road and hike a bit to find Agamemnon’s larger, but solitary resting place. Don’t miss these ancient architectural wonders with their spectacular domes!

Walk inside Agamemnon’s phenomenal tholos, or beehive, tomb- an architectural wonder. Pieces of the sculpted facade are on display at the British Museum in London and the National Archeological Museum in Athens. Grave robbers make it impossible to know what treasures he may have been interred with.

Mycenae is on the tourist route and there were busloads the morning we visited. The often-photographed Lions Gate is at the entrance and selfie-seekers can create a bottleneck. Be prepared to be awed as you follow the pathway up through the Cyclopean walls where you’ll find the ruined palaces, temples, royal burial circles, cistern, treasury and fortifications of ancient Greece.

*Royal burial circles at Mycenae are just inside the gates. The dead were placed in vaults vertically.*

There are some paved paths at Mycenae, particularly in the beginning of the complex through the Lion’s Gate and past the royal burial circles. Further along, the path is mostly rocks and dirt with sharp pieces of marble protruding from the ground. It becomes paved again later. Much of this site is not accessible for people with mobility challenges, nor are the fields below the citadel where the beehive tombs are located.

*The famous Lions Gate is a highlight at ancient Mycenae and one of the few areas accessible for those with mobility challenges.*

Whether you visit the Mycenae Museum before or after the archeological site is personal preference. Just be sure you see it. More than 2,500 amazing treasures including fine gold works like Agamemnon’s exquisite death mask, everyday items like pottery, weapons, figurines, jewelry, and frescoes from the archeological site showcase the life and afterlife of the ancient Myceneans from the Bronze Age to the Hellenistic Era.

*Agamemnon”s death mask is just a splendid example example of the fine gold work the Mycenaens were known for.* *You’ll find it in the Mycenae Museum.*

An Ancient Healing Place

*It’s a long climb to the top of the ancient theater at Epidaurus. Known for its outstanding acoutics, it still hosts performances today. And yes, you can hear every word spoken at the bottom!*

In the ancient world, Epidaurus and the Sanctuary of Asclepius was known as a curative place. Asclepius was the most important healing god in antiquity. Today the site draws visitors primarily for its theater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its perfect acoustics. Built around 340 BC, the Greek theater, which was expanded by the Romans to seat up to 14,000, is one of the best preserved in the world and still used for performances. Climb up the steep stone steps to the top and listen to the “orators” below.

*Take time to wander through the Sanctuary of Asclepius, one of the most important healing places of the ancient world.*

After, head out to the sanctuary where you can visit temples, the gymnasium and the enkoimeteria- a large hall where visitors would sleep and wait for the gods to come to them in their dreams with health advice. There is also a small museum on the site with sculptures and other excavated artifacts.

Byzantium

*The road leading to the ancient Argos Theater, built in 320 BC, still has some of its marble pavers. Just beyond are Roman baths and the Greek Agora is across the road.*

Snakes were the only thing on my mind as we followed the groundskeeper who, armed with a weedwhacker, cleared the tall grass between placards in the ancient agora, or marketplace, at Argos. Located in the modern town, the ruins of Roman baths and the theater complex are across a busy street. They’re worth seeing, though there is little signage.

*Detail on a stela near the Argos Theater.*

The Byzantine Museum, housed in the historic Kapodistria Barracks, focuses on private, public and religious life here, from 324 AD until 1453 AD. Everyday objects, pottery, sculpture, weapons, and religious artifacts that belonged to residents of the one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world gave us a fascinating peek into the past.

*This 13th century bowl is among the everyday objects on display at the Byzantine Museum in Argos*.

Nafplio and the amazing archeological sites nearby filled us with wonder and sparked our interest in returning to this spectacular region of Greece for a deeper exploration of these ancient civilizations. Our road trip continued to Kalamata, Patras, Galaxidi, Delphi and finally, Athens—a city we could have spent a month exploring. Those who choose the Peloponnese Peninsula as their destination, as we did, will be generously rewarded. We’ll visit the islands another time!

Practicalities– Driving and More

*Driving on Greece’s main roads is easy. Mountainous, country roads are bit of a challenge but getting to explore the Peloponnese countryside is worth the effort.*

Nafplio is an easy drive from Athens, but country roads can be winding and narrow, especially in the mountains, and people drive fast. Most signage is in Greek and English but not all, so prepare by jotting down the Greek spelling for your destination, especially if it is off the main road, and bring paper maps. Most Greeks speak English, but they were tickled when we could say good morning, hello, goodbye, and thank you in their native tongue. Very few of the archeological sites we visited were accessible for people with mobility challenges.

*Nafplio was a great place to begin our exploration of the Peloponnese Peninsula. We will definitely return!*

If You Go

We stayed at 3Sixty Hotel & Suites in Nafplio. Some of our favorite restaurants were I Folio, Taverna Pidalio, Mevta, and 3Sixty Grill, all in Nafplio. Here are links to the sites we visited mentioned in this article: Archeological Museum of Nafplio, Palamidi Castle, Archeological Site and Museum at Mycenae, Archeological Site at Tiryns, Archeological Site at Argos, Byzantine Museum in Argos, Epidaurus, the Bourtzi.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I
may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support. I appreciate it!

What To Do In Bilbao: The Basque Country’s Exciting Capital Has So More Than the Guggenheim To See

I’ve met more than a few people traveling in Spain who take a day trip to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum and then they leave. The museum is incredible both for its collections and Frank Geary’s astounding architecture, but there is so much more to experience in the Basque region’s largest and most important city.

*There is art everywhere in Bilbao! To enjoy it all you’ll need more than a day in this vibrant Basque city.*

After a quiet stay on the beautiful Costa Verde, we felt the energy of this revitalized city on arrival. We dropped our car with the valet at the centrally located Hotel Ercilla Bilbao and took a walk around to get our bearings. We couldn’t help but notice the public art, pedestrian only streets, and parks everywhere we went.

Plan your trip to Bilbao!

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

*Architect Frank Geary’s spectacular design has come to represent the city of Bilbao since the Guggenheim opened in 1997.*

We planned a four-day stay in this vibrant city and since it was at the very top of our list, had gotten tickets for the Guggenheim for our first full day in Bilbao. Tickets are timed and the museum is the number one attraction in the city. Buy your tickets online as soon as you have your dates and get them for as early in the day as you can. There is much to see, so book lunch at one of the two restaurants in the museum and you can stay all day. Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao is the more casual of the two, while the Michelin one-star Nerua offers a fine dining option.

*Jeff Koon’s* Puppy *serves as the official greeter at the Guggenheim Bilbao.*

Great Art Outside

We could see the top of the iconic building as we headed towards the Guggenheim, enjoying Bilbao’s bustling streets as we walked the short distance from our hotel. We spotted Puppy by Jeff Koons, waiting out front. People were vying for a turn to take selfies and group pictures in front of the enormous floral sculpture.

The building is spectacular—even more so in person—and there are monumental masterworks to experience even before you enter the museum. Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider called Maman, Daniel Buren’s Arcos Rojos and Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree are all outside the museum, along with the fog “sculpture” by Fujiko Nakaya that creeps out from under the building every hour.

Richard Serra

The first enormous gallery you’ll encounter inside is dedicated to Richard Serra’s site-specific work The Matter of Time. His massive steel structures spiral, snake, and defy gravity. Walking through the huge sculptures can be vertiginous, claustrophobic, even isolating, though you are hardly alone here. Feel the texture of the steel, which changes, as does the temperature. Make some noise! People were whistling and yelling to create echoes inside the sculptures. It was a sensory experience on all levels.

There’s a viewing deck above the gallery where you can take in the entire exhibition at once, something you can’t really do on the ground level. It’s fascinating to watch people going into the work, standing in the center of some of the larger pieces, moving in a single file through the narrow spaces in others, and just wandering around and enjoying it all. I could’ve spent the day just in that gallery.

*The Matter of Time appeals to all ages!*

How It’s Made

Steps from the sculpture is a smaller gallery that has models of each piece, information about Serra’s work and process, and details about the steel’s origins. We learned that only gravity is keeping these gigantic sheets of steel upright and in place! There are photos and information about other works Serra has created–many, like this one, site-specific. I was particularly taken with the history of a piece designed for the City of New York which the artist took back, after the city wanted to move the work.

Special Exhibitions

After you’ve spent some time with Richard Serra’s installation, head upstairs to the special exhibitions and the museum’s excellent permanent collection. Highlights during our visit included an extensive Miro exhibition and Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room— there was a line to enter this small room, but it was worth the wait to step inside the enchanting world she created!

Read about current exhibitions here.

The museum focuses on art from 1945 on—all modern and contemporary pieces, primarily by American artists. Works by many of the artists you’d expect, including Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Lewitt, Rothko, Oldenburg, Jackson Pollock, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Willem de Kooning, and their contemporaries are all here, along with works by other less familiar artists.

Our day at the Guggenheim Bilbao was definitely a highlight of our travels through the North of Spain.

Mercado de la Ribera

*Take time to explore the oldest covered market in the world– and have a little lunch.*

There are other iconic structures in this Basque city, some with significantly more history than the Guggenheim. Built in 1929, the Mercado de la Ribera (Erriberako Merkatura in Basque)is the largest covered market in the world and features beautiful stained-glass windows and original iron works throughout. In the heart of the old city, it is the perfect place for a quick, casual meal, snack or drink.

The ground level is a massive food hall offering just about everything—vermouth bars, coffee bars, beer bars, tapas bars, and sweets shops! We went on a busy Saturday afternoon and it was really crowded, but the lines went fast. Look around to see what appeals, order, and then grab a seat at a communal table. This is food hall dining at its best.

Upstairs you’ll find purveyors of fresh fish, produce, meats, cheeses, spices—all the things that made me wish I had a kitchen in Bilbao. There’s also a cooking school. If you’d like to take classes, reserve online here.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we set out to explore to the market and old town and it felt like everybody in Bilbao was outside enjoying the fine day. We stopped at the lively and bustling Plaza Mayor, full of cafes and shops, as you’d expect, along with kids playing soccer (and subsequently soccer balls breaking glasses), people at tables and sitting on the ground having tapas and wine, and everyone generally having a lovely time! We saw a bridal group in tutus with the maid of honor hoisting a megaphone making regular announcements—all fun to experience! Plaza Mayor is the perfect place to stop and have a drink or a coffee—and people watch.

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

While we were in the old town, we visited the beautiful Cathedral, as we do in every European city. Bilbao’s cathedral, Gothic in style, is dedicated to Saint James or Santiago, the city’s patron saint.

There’s also the much smaller Church of Saint Anton, the oldest building in Bilbao, right next to the market. Purchase a combo ticket at the Cathedral so you can visit both splendid sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes an audio guide available in seven languages, including English.

We took a 20-minute walk through an interesting and diverse neighborhood to reach the market/old town area and walked back another route, through an upscale shopping area. These very different experiences showed us two opposing sides to this Basque city.

*An American President and a musican on a busy shopping street.*

Beaux Art Museum

*Rainy days and museums were made for each other!*

Where better to spend a rainy day than a museum—or two? The Fine Arts Museum (also called Beaux Arts Museum) is the second most visited museum in Bilbao. They have an impressive collection of contemporary art, special exhibitions, and European art from the 16^th, 17th and 18th centuries.

You’ll find many well-known Spanish artists like Goya, Picasso, and Velazquez, plus others you may not have heard of, with Basque artists known for their mostly modern and contemporary works in this category. We bought tickets onsite, though if you are visiting during busy summer or holiday times, it is best to get tickets for everything online in advance.

ITSAMuseum

Also known as the Maritime Museum, ITSAMuseum surprised us by the scope of its offerings. Naturally, the focus of the museum is the sea, which has created a livelihood for so many in the area. In addition to all the seafaring/maritime themed exhibitions, artworks and even a surfing exhibit, we saw a terrific video and exhibit on Bilbao’s history and the enormous impact that the Guggenheim Museum has made on the growth and revitalization of the city.

The video also focused on the role Basque culture has played in the city’s history and development, the importance of shipping and trade, and what the future may look like for the area. You’ll see what a sad, industrial wasteland Bilbao was not so long ago, and what it took to become the beautiful, vital city that it is now.

Take a Break

There’s a bar next door if you’d like a drink and a snack. While we were visiting, they were celebrating Earth Day there. There was a band and lots of people, including families with kids, singing along to Basque songs, drinking beer (not the kids), and having a good time.

Azkuna Zentroa– Cultural Center

*Surprising art and architecture await just inside Bilbao’s Cultural Center.*

The Cultural Center –Azkuna Zentroa is worth a visit. The façade is all that remains of the original building but the Philippe Starke- designed interior is the real draw. There are three separate structures under one roof and within the walls. Eight hundred different columns were created for the building and from those, the architect chose 47 to become a part of the edifice. Each one is unique and designed from different materials.

*Free public art is on exhibit on the ground floor.*

There is art displayed in various spaces on the ground floor between the columns. Several pieces were by an artist whose work we had seen at the Fine Arts Museum. The Bilbao public library is also in the building and has free art exhibitions in addition to being a lending library. We saw a comic-themed show. There are also some small shops selling arts and artisanal goods produced by local artists and an information center on the ground floor. The building and the library are free to visit.

On the top floor, there’s a gym and a public swimming pool available to everyone. Look up and you’ll see the swimmers overhead—the pool bottom is transparent.

Practicalities: Where to Stay and Delicious Places to Eat

Ercilla Bilbao

Like every large city there are lodging options at all price points in Bilbao. We stayed at the Autograph Collection Ercilla Bilbao, which is in a great location right in the center of the city on a pedestrian shopping street. It is walking distance to all the major sites and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby. Our room was spacious (Vintage King) and overlooked a courtyard, so it was very quiet. Disclosure—I have status with Marriott/Bonvoy that gives me perks like room upgrades and free breakfast, so I often choose a hotel from the brand.

*Be sure to book a table at Ercilla’s rooftop bar, even if you’re a guest.*

The Ercilla has a great rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city—perfect for an aperitivo or an after-dinner drink! They also have light fare available. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the bar but you should make a reservation.

Restaurants We Loved

We ate extremely well in Bilbao—everywhere in the Northern Spain, in fact. As in any Spanish city, it is important to book a table unless you’re having stand up tapas. Here’s where we went in Bilbao—all different and all excellent!

La Vina del Ensanche

We had a wonderful, casual dinner our first night in Bilbao at La Vina del Ensanche. They offered a prefix menu for €45 per person along with the regular menu. We had an enormous plate of beautiful Iberian ham, fresh fish, vegetable croquettes, and two desserts.

The wine was not expensive and selections were almost all Spanish with plenty of local choices. Service was attentive and very helpful describing different dishes and assisting with wine selection. They also had a little shop with specialty food and wine you could buy to take away. This would be a great place for provisions if you had a kitchen!

Viejo Zorti

We also had an excellent dinner at Viejo Zorti, a popular upscale restaurant with a long history. We had shrimp with garlic to start, followed by a whole turbo which they presented at the table with Pil Pil sauce—you’ll see that sauce everywhere! It was a delicious meal but pricey, which we expected because the fish was “price by the kilo” but so fresh and worth every euro. The wine list was extensive and again, service was attentive and extremely helpful.

Bistro Salitre

Bistro Salitre is a lively, buzzy place catering to a younger, hipper crowd than Viejo Zorti. They had both traditional Basque dishes and updated versions of classics. It was fun on a Saturday night and they had music, too!

Serantes II

It can be hard to find a restaurant that’s open on Sunday night, so we were happy to have Serantes II reserved. This one also specializes in fish dishes and was recommended by the hotel. It was quiet and elegant and a nice respite after a day of touring.

Find your Bilbao accommodations!

We’ll Be Back

Bilbao was a city of surprises and there was more I wanted to see and do there than we could accomplish, even in four days. I’m excited to return to this beautiful Basque city of outstanding art, notable culture, rich history and exemplary cuisine!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express consent of teh publisher.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. I
promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thanks for your support!

Go Play Outside in Beautiful Bend Oregon

If you like spending your sunny days outdoors, head to Bend, Oregon. Hiking, biking, fishing, rock climbing, floating, kayaking, and paddle boarding are just a few of the outdoor pursuits that make Bend (and nearby Central Oregon communities) enormously popular in summer months. Spectacular waterfalls, lakes, and lava flows are close by and the mighty Deschutes River winds its way right through the city.

*The Deschutes River runs right through Bend, Oregon* *providing plenty of summer fun for kayakers, paddle boarders and floaters.*

I noticed a sign saying, “Defund Visit Bend,” posted on a bridge on a recent stay, but I’ve always found the locals friendly and happy to share the attractions their city offers. As a frequent visitor, here are some of my favorite places to go out and play:

Get ready for your trip to Bend!

Floating Away

I think floating on the Deschutes River is one of the best ways to while away a summer afternoon in Bend, and I’m not alone in that opinion. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, one quarter of a million people take to the river on floats, paddle boards and kayaks, according to VisitBend.com. Weekends get really crowded. If you can, do your floating mid-week. There are rules for everyone’s safety. Wear your personal flotation device (there are no lifeguards on the river), and alcoholic beverages are not permitted. It’s the law.

*Early on a midweek morning, you’ll share the river with more ducks than people.*

What You’ll Need

We’ve seen plenty of dogs floating with their humans, but it is not recommended, even with doggie life jackets. Neither are pool toys and floats; they aren’t sturdy enough for the rocks and branches you’ll encounter. If you don’t have your own, rent equipment at Park & Float or Riverbend Park. PFDs are free to borrow at both places. Reserve your floats in advance since it’s first come, first served, at the rental places.

*Pets and pool toys belong at home, not on the river.*

Equipment rental at Riverbend Park in Bend. — *Pets and pool toys belong at home, not on the river.*

Along with your water bottle, sunscreen, hat, and rash guard, remember your aqua socks. Get a pair with sturdy soles to protect your feet from rocks. Leave your flip flops at home. You’ll also want a dry bag to keep your car keys, wallet and phone safe while you float along. If you didn’t bring one, there’s an REI in the Old Mill District.

*There’s a short section of the Deschutes with rapids, but you can choose to go over them or not.*

Keep an eye out for the white water rapids under the Colorado Avenue Bridge. Fear not, it’s a short segment of the river. If you’re not up for the adrenaline rush, it’s easy to leave the river just before the rapids and put back in after you pass them. There are warning signs in the river that show where to go.

It’s fun to watch people navigate the rapids on their floats, paddle boards, kayaks, and sometimes, surf boards, from the safety of the shore. Depending on where you put in (and the currents) your river “cruise” will take between one and two hours.

*Surf’s up on the Deschutes*! *Bring your board and enjoy the ride*.

The Old Mill District: Go for the Music, Bird Watching, and More

*Hayden Homes Amphitheater hosts high wattage talent all summer long.*

You’ll have floated (or paddled) right by the Old Mill District on your river outing. The towering smokestacks you passed have become a Bend landmark, and are all that remain of what were once two highly productive lumber mills.

Now the Old Mill District is a thriving gathering place with restaurants, bars, shops and Hayden Homes, the largest outdoor music venue in Oregon. The amphitheater has 8,000 seats, including lawn spots, and features chart toppers in every genre from alt rock to cowboy crooners all summer long. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a sultry summer night!

*Paved paths along the Deschutes beckon bike riders and dog walkers.*

The inviting pathways along both sides of the Deschutes at the Old Mill make it easy to walk, jog, or bike along the river. If you don’t have your own two wheels, Wheel Fun bike rentals are open seasonally. Bend is a dog-friendly town so bring your furry friend for a stroll here, but please obey leash laws.

This is also a great place for bird watching. Pick up a free guide at the Ticket Mill or the Bend Visitor Center before you set out. Raptors, woodpeckers, songbirds, waterfowl and shorebirds as well as owls and quails call Bend and its environs home or are migratory visitors. The East Cascades Bird Alliance occasionally offers free guided “bird walks” along the river.

*Bird watching is a popula*r pastime at the Old Mill.

If you’re looking for retail therapy, the Old Mill has everything from clothing to fine jewelry, accessories and sporting goods. There are also plenty of places to eat and drink. But let’s get back to the great outdoors.

Climb Smith Rock

*Smith Rock State Park draws rock climbers from around the world. It’s a great place to hike and bike, too.*

Some claim rock climbing was invented at Smith Rock State Park in nearby Terrebonne. Whether that’s true or not, with a ridge elevation of 3,200 feet, the high volcanic walls are a big draw for climbers from around the world. That’s not for me, but the scenic hiking trails are.

Choose the well-marked trails that best match your abilities from the easy Canyon Trail to the aptly named Misery Ridge Trail. You’ll enjoy spectacular vistas on whichever trail you follow, especially the ones overlooking Crooked River. Smith Rock is also popular for fishing and mountain biking. It’s a beautiful place to spend the day.

*The scenic trails along Crooked River are my favorite.*

There is little to no shade at Smith Rock State Park, and it gets really hot in Central Oregon in the summertime. Try to get out on the trail early and bring plenty of water. Rangers recommend 16 oz. per person per hour. Wear sunscreen and appropriate footwear and be mindful that this is a wilderness area. Watch out for wildlife and snakes.

*Smith Canyon’s majestic volcanic walls*.

There is a $10 day use fee for Oregon residents ($12.50 for all others), unless you have an annual Oregon State Park pass. Smithrock.com has all the details you’ll need to plan your outing. Check in at the Welcome Center in the parking lot for passes, maps and information.

*Get out on the trail as early as you can in the summer.*

Ice Cream

There are no services in the park, but plan to stop at nearby Juniper Junction. Rockhard has the most delicious huckleberry ice cream I’ve ever tasted. Reward yourself after your exertions! The small store also has local crafts, souvenirs, and snacks. Contact them for rock climbing guides.

Alpacas!

On your way back to Bend, stop at the Crescent Moon Alpaca Ranch. Walk around the enclosure, learn about, and feed these fuzzy creatures whose wool is so prized. These alpacas are super friendly and so are the people who work here. We saw new babies in the barn and you might, too. Crescent Moon has a terrific gift shop with all things alpaca from gorgeous knitwear to stuffed toys and lotions and potions made locally. They sell the alpaca food there, too.

Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Volcanic activity began here 500,000 years ago and produced 400 cinder cones, lava tubes, and vents amid a flow area that covers 1,200 square miles. Newberry National Volcanic Monument in the Deschutes National Forest covers 57,384 acres of that area, which means there are plenty of places to explore the fascinating geological formations created by volcanoes in Central Oregon.

Some sites in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument are accessible to all, others are not for the mobility challenged. Big Obsidian Flow is in the latter category. Formed only 1,300 years ago, it is the youngest lava flow here.

Beware Changeable Weather

Somehow we thought it would be fun to climb what turned out to be an extremely treacherous one- mile loop to the top of the razor-sharp flow. It was all about the views of surrounding mountains and Paulina Lake for us. While we were enjoying the sights from the top, suddenly lightning flashed, thunder roared, and the rain poured down. Realizing we were the tallest things up there, we ran for our lives as carefully as we could down the hazardous, barely- there trail, getting soaked to the skin. It was an adventure we laugh about now.

We’d gone from sunshine to torrential rains and back to sunshine by the time we reached nearby Paulina Lake. We knew we’d find restrooms, shelter and food there. A kind woman on the restroom line took one look at my soaking wet hair and clothes and offered me her beach towel. I gladly accepted. Paulina Lake is popular for boating and fishing and has a lodge with a casual restaurant. They rent boats ranging from canoes to motorboats, but I’d had enough water for one day.

Welcome to Lava Lands!

*There are spectacular views across the lava fields to the mountains beyond at Lava Lands.*

Lava Lands Visitor Center with its Chitwood Exhibit Hall is a great place to begin your exploration of the Newbury National Volcanic Monument. Named for a former geologist with the U.S. Forest Service, the Chitwood Exhibit Hall is full of educational, interactive exhibits on the geology and cultural history of the area including a 3D topographical map. There are daily films and helpful Forest Service Ranger talks.

*The 7,000 -year old lava flows here came from Lava Butte, above.*

Step outside the visitors center and you’ll enter Lava Land. There’s a 5.5-mile fully accessible Sun Lava Trail as well as the Trail of Molten Land over the 7,000-year-old lava that flowed down from nearby Lava Butte. There are plenty of informative signs about the geological features, the wildlife, and the original inhabitants on these lands. A seasonal shuttle takes visitors to Lava Butte for a fee, or you can hike up. There’s also a pleasant walk through a young forest along the Trail of the Whispering Pines.

Had we come here first, we would have been better prepared for Big Obsidian Flow! There are picnic tables and restrooms here as well as a well-stocked gift shop.

Spooky and Surreal Lava Cast Forest

*All that remains of a majestic forest are these otherworldl*y lava casts.

Once upon a time, an enormous forest stood where lava casts of this old growth forest now lie. About 7,000 years ago molten lava caught the trees on fire, and the resulting steam formed the casts. It’s an extraordinary place and fascinating to see.

*The landscape is eerily beautiful at Lava Cast Forest.*

The beginning of the trail from the parking lot is paved and accessible to all, but further out into the Lava Cast Forest the trail becomes rough and nearly disappears in places. Strollers or wheelchairs should turn back, but hikers can continue down the switchback through the Ponderosa Pines. There are no services and no shade here so be prepared for heat and sun, and pack accordingly.

Waterfalls

*You’ll need to hike to see this waterfall in Deschutes County.*

The Northwest Waterfalls Survey lists more than 60 waterfalls in Deschutes County, some unnamed. At almost 100 feet, Tumalo Falls is the tallest and one of the most popular waterfalls in Central Oregon. It’s easy to reach and busy with bikers and hikers. For fewer crowds, head halfway between Bend and Sunriver to see both Dillon and Benham Falls. We visited both one afternoon.

*It’s a thrill to watch the whitewater race by at these atypical waterfalls in the Deschutes National Forest.*

These are very different from the typical cascading waterfalls you might expect, but well worth a visit. Reach these falls by either hiking the Deschutes River Trail between the two or driving to each. We drove and hiked the trails along the river at each of the falls.

*Take a moment. Breathe in the fragrant pines and enjoy the spectacular white water views!*

The one-mile accessible trail from the day use/parking area at Dillon Falls takes you through the towering Ponderosa pines to a lookout point over the river. The river narrows here, and you can view the raging rapids furiously funneling through the channel as it drops, creating Dillon Falls. The lava flow on the opposite shore is impressive, too.

*Volcanic walls force the powerful rapids through a narrow channel in the Deschutes forming Dillon Falls*.

Beware! The river here runs tremendously fast and turns into Class-V whitewater. It is as treacherous as it is beautiful and a recent tubing accident resulted in fatalities. If you are not an expert on the water, the views are best enjoyed from the trail. Hike along the riverbank to enjoy the spectacular scenery.

*Dillon Falls has roiling rapids and class-5 whitewater. It’s a beautiful hike along the riverbank and a much safer place to enjoy these raging waters.*

South of Dillon, you’ll find Benham Falls. At 25 feet, Benham is the largest waterfall on the Upper Deschutes River. There’s no monumental cascade of water, instead you’ll see a series of powerful rapids rushing over steep volcanic rock. The drop forms Benham Falls. You may see rafters and kayakers paddling through the fast-moving river here, surrounded by high volcanic walls. We also spotted hardy mountain bikers on the rugged trail as we relaxed with our picnic lunch.

Dillon Falls looks calm where river widens. it is not. — *Enjoy the tranquility.*

Just beyond the Newbury Caldera, 80 feet high Paulina Falls is another favorite. There’s a short, accessible trail to the double-plumed waterfall and a picnic area. Hike further along to view the majestic falls from above, which we did. You won’t be alone here; these falls are popular.

You’ll need a $5 day use pass, Northwest Forest annual pass, or a lifetime America the Beautiful pass available to people age 62+ for $80 wherever you see signs saying, “Recreation fee required.” Click here for pass and permit information.

But Wait, There’s More

Bend has plenty to offer in all seasons, and it’s especially enjoyable in summertime. Visitors can explore the Ale Trail, High Desert Food Trail, and Roundabout Art Route. Downtown Bend is a delight with boutiques, restaurants, breweries, and bars. There are world-class golf resorts, and even a tea producer in this growing city.

Bend Oregon welcome sign — *Bend has something for everyone.*

Woman-owned Metolius blends responsibly- sourced teas from family farms and small co-ops, along with delicious handcrafted syrups. You can sample their popular chai, Earl Gray and other teas at local cafes including Sisters Coffee and the Backporch. They’ll ship your online order or you can pick it up when you’re in Bend. I love their teas and was lucky enough to have a private tour there.

*Metolius Teas are handcrafted in Bend.*

There are also notable museums in and around Bend, including the High Desert Museum, my favorite! More on that in another article.

*Have some outdoor fun in Bend before the sun sets on summer.*

Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or taking the whole family; go and enjoy this outdoor paradise while the summer days are long.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you for your support!

Oregon’s Rugged Coast is Spectacular in Springtime

Take a deep breath. On Oregon’s wild Central Coast the air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.

There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales.

*Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.*

Whale Watching

The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales, 20,000 of them according to some sources, pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.

*Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.*

It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spy hop so close to shore. We learned that spy hopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby. Maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy watching them.

*Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.*

Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.

*Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.*

Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.

*Stop by the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center.*

World’s Smallest Harbor

Make the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center your first stop. When we visited we saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.

*The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep.*

*Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.*

Volunteers can usually be found at coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks .org.

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse

There’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.

*The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.*

Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.

Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.

*The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.*

Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.

*To make the most of your visit make the Interpretive Center your first stop. Admission to the center is free but there is a fee to enter the park.*

*Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.*

Lighthouse Life

After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit.

Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.

*Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps.*

*A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.*

Marine Life

There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!

Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.

Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.

Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.

*Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.*

Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.

Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center

*Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.*

Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.

*Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.*

Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.

*Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development.*

*Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.*

Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave.

The Burrows House

Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19^th and early 20^th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.

*Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s.*

*This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.*

Hatfield Marine Science Center

Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.

Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense
of wonder in visitors of all ages.

*Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.*

The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.

Go Explore

Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.

Devil’s Punchbowl

Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.

*Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore!*

*Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide.*

Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.

Finders Keepers

Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.

Nye Beach

Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.

*It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.*

If You Go

Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.

There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.

Where to Eat

As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. You can’t go wrong with these:

Depoe Bay

Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.

*Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.*

Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.

Gleneden Beach

Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.

*We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them.*

*Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!*

Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.

Newport

Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.

*Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite.*

*The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious.*

*The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.*

We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.

Gleneden Breakfast

Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.

*Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning.*

*Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.*

The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.

Lincoln City

Kyllos- Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.

*We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.*

If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.

This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways… Find more Oregon fun here.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

Note: This article has been updated March 30, 2026.

Liguria: The Coastal Magic of Camogli, Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline. Think stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

***Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.***

Ligurian Coast

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. Though we’d gotten suggestions from La Spezia to Santa Margherita Ligure, we settled on Camogli.

Midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north, and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the exceedingly popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns, Camogli made sense as a base from which to explore this stretch of Italy’s coastline.

We planned to drive to the Ligurian Coast from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

Stuck

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels. The Italians call them galleries. We quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

I needed that distraction for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Find your accommodations here!

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

*Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool.*

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant, and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

Dinner With a View

We had phoned ahead from the tunnel, and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. After admiring the sea view, we tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable. Stuffed, we headed upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

***The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.***

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

***You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.***

***These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.***

Famous Fish Fry

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!

The early festivals used smaller cookware, but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. In 2025, they served three tons of fish fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil. In all, volunteers prepared 30,000 portions. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

The festival is free but hungry attendees are asked for a 6 Euro charitable donation. The fish fry is in the Guiness Book of World Records as the largest in the world.

Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.

Around Town

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare. It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

*You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!*

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that.

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

Camogli has a scenic harbor area and basilica to explore. The popular public beach is perfect for relaxing in the sunshine. Bring aqua socks. Beaches in this area are covered in stones, not sand.

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

Camogli basilica looms over the public beach — *Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.*

A Day Trip to the Abbey

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Pack your aqua socks. Many beaches in Liguria are covered with stones rather than sand. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet.

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach. Both were busy but we didn’t eat at either. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

*The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.*

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre: Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns.

It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess.

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

Riomaggiore was an exercise in patience and ours wore thin quickly. We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, until we couldn’t wait anymore. The highly touted charms of Riomaggiore were lost on us. We got on a train heading north to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised us to get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south.

On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

What to See

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants, and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were plenty of tourists, which we expected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden we had planned to visit was closed. We’d checked the website for Museo del Parco but that’s the way things are here sometimes.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake.

This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” He didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. When I showed the conductor our tickets, he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

*Wait until the exact time your train is due to board or you could inadvertently wind up in Genoa, like we did!*

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early. Ever.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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A Visit to Friedrichshafen’s Fascinating Zeppelin Museum

zeppelin museum with playground in front of it

Can you resist looking up when the Goodyear blimp passes overhead? Imagine being among the first to spot a zeppelin as the strange looking aircraft floated by 125 years ago. Learn about the iconic airship that once captured the world’s imagination and transformed travel, commerce, and military strategy at a visit to Friedrichshafen’s fascinating Zeppelin Museum.

This engaging, family-friendly museum is perfect for fans of flight, military history, engineering, and adventure. The museum is a must for those fascinated by the Hindenburg disaster.

zeppelin suspended from ceiling — *After 125 years, Zeppelins are still a source of fascination.*

On the Shores of Lake Constance

museum signage about von Zeppelin — *Retired German General von Zeppelin correctly foresaw a rewarding future in the rigid airship.*

Housed in an enormous structure on the shores of Lake Constance, or the Bodensee in German, the Zeppelin Museum tells the story of the airship developed by Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin. A retired German General and an inventor with a penchant for engineering, he foresaw a future where these large, lighter than air, rigid airships would play an important role in transporting goods and people, with both commercial and military applications. For decades, they did just that.

men look at zeppelin models in glass cases

Visitors to the museum learn the science, technology, development and fascinating 125 year history of the airships. Compelling interactive and static exhibits tell the story. The first zeppelins, LZ 1 and LZ 2, were experimental aircraft and used to survey large swaths of Europe from their base in Friedrichshafen.

As von Zeppelin correctly surmised, the German military quickly saw their potential for surveillance and transportation. Consumer applications came soon after when zeppelins were used to transport goods over long distances.

First in Transatlantic Flight

reconstructed zeppelin hull — *The Hindenburg was the fastest way to cross the Atlantic for passengers and goods in 1936. The museum has a partial reconstruction of the airship* and *some of the wreckage from its crash.*

Zeppelins were first flown to destinations within Germany and then across Europe. The fast, economical airships became the first aircraft to carry passengers across the Atlantic Ocean.

By 1936, the Hindenburg carried passengers and up to eight tons of perishable goods like flowers, food, and medicine in its cargo hold for the relatively speedy two-day transAtlantic journey. Zeppelins were also used for polar expeditions including Roald Amundsen’s last fateful trip to rescue Italian explorers at the North Pole.

During Wartime

museum exhibits explain the zeppelin's history — *Zeppelins changed military strategy in WWI but barely played a role in WWII.*

The museum has fascinating exhibitions about the zeppelin’s role in WWI and the subsequent shut down of production demanded by the Allies after Germany’s loss in the conflict. Two of the already-built zeppelins were given as reparations to Italy and France. A third was sent to the USA. German engineers also came to the United States to work with the military to develop an American dirigible program.

Let Your Imagination Soar Aboard the Hindenburg

One of the highlights at the Zeppelin Museum is exploring a partial reconstruction of the Hindenburg. It was one of the largest passenger-carrying zeppelins ever built. The reconstruction was faithfully built adhering to the airship’s original plans.

Enjoy the 1930s Bauhaus design of the surprisingly spacious lounges and public spaces and relax where passengers would have. Peek into the restrooms and down the halls where the passenger cabins are located aboard the luxury airship. It’s clear that traveling by zeppelin was for strictly for those with means.

During the zeppelin’s heyday, 50 to 70 passengers could comfortably travel across the Atlantic to Lakehurst, New Jersey just outside of New York City, or to Brazil’s then capital, Rio de Janeiro. In 1928, the journey to New Jersey aboard the LZ 127 Graf Zeppelin took more than four days, while less than a decade later the Hindenburg could make the crossing in about 50 hours.

The Hindenburg Disaster

*The Hindenburg crash signaled the end of transatlantic passenger flights aboard zeppelins.*

After a transatlantic journey on May 6, 1937, the Hindenburg crashed and burned while landing in Lakehurst, New Jersey. The zeppelin was carrying half its normal passenger load on that flight. Incredibly, of the 97 people aboard, which included 61 crewmen and 36 passengers; 65 lived through the catastrophe while 32 souls perished. The museum contains photos, newsreels and news clips of one of the world’s most infamous air disasters.

An aviation failure of epic proportions, the fiery Hindenburg crash has been studied in minute detail since then. Spoiler alert: While a number of factors (highly combustible hydrogen gas, weather conditions, the flammable coating of the rigid aircraft) may all have played a role, the exact cause of the crash is still a mystery. Many of the most sensational photographs of the burning Hindenburg in the exhibition were taken by Richard Fleischhut, who became known for his photographic portraits of stars like Marlene Dietrich.

An older man and young boy look at an exhibit together — *The Zeppelin Museum is fascinating for visitors of all ages.*

With the development of faster aircraft and public confidence dwindling after the Hindenburg disaster, the era of passenger travel aboard zeppelins came to a close. This was not the end of the zeppelin, however. The museum explores how Hitler’s National Socialist Party leveraged the airships for propaganda purposes and used slave and forced labor brought to Friedrichshafen from across Europe to build zeppelins before and during WWII, even though they knew the airships had limited military usefulness.

A Family Connection

We have a family connection to that dark period of history. We spotted signage in the museum that noted after Allied bombers attacked Friedrichshafen on March 18, 1944, Hitler ordered all military production, including the Zeppelin factory, to move to hastily constructed underground bunkers. It was on that March 18th bombing run that my father-in-law and his B-24 crew mates, who had taken off from Wendling Air Base in the UK, were shot down over Friedrichshafen. They managed to fly their crippled aircraft across Lake Constance and landed in Switzerland, barely avoiding Nazi capture.

photograph and handwriting in an open book — *My father-in-law kept a journal during his internment in Switzerland in 1944. He is in the back row, second from the right, in the crew photo.*

The men were interned in Adelboden, Switzerland for the remainder of the war. The 392^nd bombing group had one of its deadliest days of the war on that mission. Only 10 of the 24 planes that flew to Friedrichshafen that day returned to England.

Models, Statistics, and A Flight Simulator

inside museum sign points to Hindenburg Hall — *Hindenburg Hall is the first stop for many visitors to the Zeppelin Museum.*

The museum has an entire gallery dedicated to the Hindenburg. In addition to models, photographs, and plenty of fascinating facts, the largest surviving pieces of Hindenburg wreckage are on display here; the rudder bearing arm and part of the tail unit.

In Zeppelin Hall, aviation fans can geek out over routes, statistics, comparisons, and models of various aircraft. There is a lot to see here. In addition to aircraft models, visitors can admire the luxurious Mercedes-Maybach custom-built for Herr Zeppelin, as well as other classic cars on exhibit.

*The museum explores the science, technology, and social impact of zeppelins. Be sure to see the advertisements for passenger travel.*

Ever wonder what makes a gas balloon rise or how airship gears and engines work? Visitors can learn the basics of flight technology and the science behind airships, and use the museum’s NT Zeppelin flight simulator to embark on a scientific research mission. The interactive stations bring the technology of zeppelins to life and are a hit with visitors of all ages.

The Wunderkammer: A Cabinet of Wonders

The zeppelin’s soaring popularity in the 1930s created a huge market for all things airship-related including clocks, coins, toys, and tableware. Based on 16^th century collector’s cabinets, the Wunderkammer is a treasure trove of 350 zeppelin-inspired items that can be further explored using the tablets near the displays. I could have spent hours in the Wunderkammer admiring everything from the carousel to miniature zeppelins.

Image and Power

After viewing the extensive exhibitions on the zeppelin’s history, development, role in two world wars, and the merchandise the zeppelin craze spawned; head upstairs to see the photography gallery. Image and Power: Photography in Focus contains fascinating photographs from the museum’s archives and explores the role photographs of the zeppelin played in promoting political agendas and national identity, among other things. The photographs will be on view until April 12, 2026.

photo of hindenburg over manhattan — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

photograph of women looking at zeppelin — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

Art and Restitution

Obligation of Ownership focuses on the provenance of the 40 works of art displayed here from the Bodensee Museum and the ongoing difficulties of reuniting art confiscated or stolen from victims of the Third Reich. The museum scrutinizes its own collection regarding Nazi looting and relocation of cultural treasures, along with a look at art dealers who played a role. Even 80 years after the end of the war, restitution work continues.

painting of a woman on a wall — *The challenge of reuniting art with its rightful owners continues 80 years after WWII ended.*

Take a Walk

After your visit to the Zeppelin Museum, take some time to explore Friedrichshafen. More than half of the city was destroyed by bombing during WWII, but today there are beautiful public gardens to stroll in, lovely churches to visit, and plenty of coffee shops, bars, and restaurants to relax in while you take in the views across Lake Constance to Switzerland’s magnificent mountains.

sculpture along the shores of lake constance

As you stroll along the Lake Constance shoreline take a moment to enjoy the public art including Helmut Lutz’s Sound Ship (above left), a carved wooden toad who appears to be watching the sunset over Switzerland (center), and a memorial to Herr von Zeppelin (right) in the park across from the water. There’s also a pedestrian shopping zone nearby if you’re looking for some retail therapy.

Practicalities: Plan Your Trip

We stayed at the charming Hotel Villino, a Relais & Chateau property in Bodolz, a 30-minute drive from Friedrichshafen. The Villino is a delightful, family-owned property with 21 beautifully decorated, comfortable rooms and suites. It is surrounded by gardens in a peaceful countryside setting and has a spa on the property. The hotel was the ideal base for exploring the Bodensee region and a pleasure to return to after day trips throughout the area.

The Villino boasts a Michelin-starred dining room with two elegant multi-course pre-fix menus with an Italian-Asian flair. We enjoyed the restaurant very much, both at breakfast and dinner. Reservations are essential for dinner.

Eat Like a Local

We also enjoyed dining in nearby Lindau at Hotel Restaurant Alte Post, known for traditional Styrian and Swabian cuisine like schnitzel, roasts, spaetzle, and fish dishes. It was the perfect place for dinner before catching a performance of Swan Lake at the Lindau Marionettenoper a few streets away. (Get tickets to see a show if you can; it’s a delightful experience.) In the warmer weather Alte Post’s beer garden is open, serving beverages and hearty fare. Be sure to reserve as the restaurant is very popular with residents and visitors.

plates of food — Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

For a very local experience, head to Bodolzer Dorfstubel in Bodolz. This casual eatery offers German dishes like schnitzel, spaetzle, wurstsalat, steaks, and stews. Our waiter, who didn’t speak English comfortably (I relied on Google translate) pulled up the restaurant’s Instagram account and showed us photos of the food to help us choose. It was a tasty meal that left us too full for dessert.

The Bodensee

The Bodensee region encompasses Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Lichtenstein, and offers travelers a world of cultural activities and culinary opportunities, along with boating, hiking, and other outdoor pursuits. The Zeppelin Museum is just one of the highlights in area filled with them. Be sure to get a Bodensee PLUS card for free admission to the Zeppelin Museum and 160 other attractions in the Lake Constance region. Visit traveltawk.com again soon for more stories on the fascinating cross-cultural Bodensee.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream!

Fairbanks in Summer: Fun Under the Midnight Sun

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds.

The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history.

We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

Sled Dogs

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

Athabaskan Culture

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead.

Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

Athabaskan Fashion

We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.

We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

Alaskan Ingenuity

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage.

Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park.

Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Safety First

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos.

Staying in Shape

We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

If You Go

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you. I appreciate your support!

O Canada! An Exciting Culinary Adventure in Southern Québec

It doesn’t normally take five days to drive from Québec City to Montreal, but we weren’t on an ordinary trip. Hosted by Bonjour Québec, we were on an epicurean journey. Our culinary experiences included a visit to a traditional sugar shack; farm-to-table dining where the farm was literally outside the door; visits to local wineries as well as an award-winning cidery; a monumental market with an educational farm and butterfly pavilion; a mountain hike and more. We only had one night in each location, but I’d strongly recommend settling in and enjoying Southern Quebec’s warm hospitality more fully. Here are some of the highlights:

Find the best accommodations in Southern Québec!

Wine and Cheese? Oui, Merci!

Canada may not be the first country that springs to mind for wine tourism. Perhaps you should. The Okanagan Valley in British Columbia has 284 wineries and 4,486 hectares of vineyards and Ontario is known for it’s world-class ice wine. Québec is Canada’s third largest wine region and a growing force in the country’s wine industry. It boasts 125 wineries and 775 Hectares dedicated to viticulture. i

Our journey began with a visit to Vignoble Cotes du Gavet, a family-run, award-winning winery in Centre-du-Québec. The Marchand family has been making wines here since 2023 from vineyards that have been producing since 2000.

We sampled several of their wines including their pet nats (petillant naturel). I was particularly partial to the sparkling rose. The wines, under both Cotes du Gavet and Osez labels, are made using local hybrid grape varietals like Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Noir, Louise Swenson, Sabrevois, Petite Pearl and Crimson Pearl.

We enjoyed delicious cheeses from Fromagerie du Presbytère with our wine tasting. Their award-winning cheeses are produced nearby by the Morin family using milk from their dairy farm, Ferme Louis d’Or. They are aged in a former church, which retains a small chapel for worship. Our cheese platter featured Louis d’Or aged 24 and 36 months, Religieuse, Bleu d’Elizabeth and Laliberte. I’d love to visit their shop in St. Elizabeth du Warwick during one of their famous Friday summer picnics. They feature live music and are open to all.

Poutine!

Poutine is almost synonymous with Québec. We learned all about this beloved regional dish and its controversial beginnings at the Musee des Cultures du Monde. The iconic dish, which is traditionally made from French fries, gravy and cheese curds, has been adapted globally to reflect local tastes in nearly every corner of the world.

We had fun voting for our favorite origin story and most important ingredient using giant plastic French fries. The only thing missing here was actual poutine. I think we were all craving it at the end of the exhibit. The poutine-themed merch in the gift shop was impossible to resist and made up for missing the tasty dish.

Poutine: A Culture of all Flavors is a special exhibition and closes September 28. There is more to see at this small museum in the Centre-du-Québec.

The museum has ongoing exhibitions about world religions including a massive display of Barbie dolls illustrating wedding customs from many cultures.

Elevated Cuisine at Au Paturage

Au Paturage roughly translates to at the pasture. The restaurant is indeed surrounded by agricultural fields and flower- filled meadows. The elegant Au Paturage- Espaces Gourmand,

focuses on seasonal, locally sourced foods, including produce grown on their own three-acre farm, right outside the restaurant. Their cheese comes from Fromagerie Presbytère and meat from Ferme le Roy du Cerf. After a welcome cocktail, it was time to taste the vegetable-forward menu.

Prepared in the open kitchen by Chef Chloe Ouellet, the meal was spectacular. Each course was paired with wines from Québec, or interestingly, Eastern Europe. During summer, their dog-friendly 55-seat terrace is open. Be sure to make a reservation.

The (Very) Old Mill

After a night at Hotel Montfort in Nicolet, it was time to move on to Bécancour. We began the day with a visit to the historic Moulin Michel, which has been grinding buckwheat into flour since 1743. The current mill has been operating in the Centre-du-Québec since 1774, after a fire destroyed the original mill.

Owner Philippe Dumas showed us the hydraulic mechanism and taught us about the fascinating history of buckwheat, the 18^th century mill, and the area. Fun fact, in lieu of cash, farmers left a portion of their grain as payment to use the mill, which was available to everyone.

Inside the historic mill building you’ll find a café and shop with delectable pastries, coffee and local products for sale. In the evening it becomes a bar.

During summer months, the sprawling grounds behind the mill are transformed into an entertainment venue. The Old Mill hosts a Blues Festival, now in its fifth year, that draws 1,200 people to this town of 2,000.

Take a Hike or Bike

We needed to walk off all those goodies and did so with a guided hike at the beautiful Parc des Sommets. It’s a popular natural recreation area in Bromont in the Eastern Townships. In summer, the 150 kilometers of hiking trails draw outdoor lovers of all ages and abilities. It’s also a great place to bike. Let the kids try out the climbing wall or just enjoy a picnic here.

Southern Québec boasts six national parks perfect for outdoor endeavors like hiking, biking and kayaking during lazy summer days. There are snow sports of all kinds when the winter weather beckons.

L’Espace Old Mill

Having met our exercise goal for the day, it was time for dinner at one of the toughest tables to get in the Eastern Townships; L’Espace Old Mill.

Inspiration and education are on the menu at this extraordinary restaurant that serves only what grows in its greenhouse and gardens (even in Québec’s frigid winter months) and what it can procure from nearby farms. We enjoyed a glass of local sparkling wine while we toured the expansive gardens with Executive Chef Eric Gendron before heading inside the airy dining room to feast on summer’s bounty.

The hyper-local focus is on the cuisine of the Brome-Missiquoi region here. Farmer/owner Jean-Martin Fortier came by and shared his vision for L’Espace Old Mill and their ongoing commitment to sustainable and regenerative farming, widely embraced by farmers in the Eastern Townships.

The Michelin Green Star-awarded restaurant’s menu is naturally vegetable-forward, though not vegetarian. I don’t think I have ever had peas or radishes that tasted so sweet and delectable! The wines poured to match the courses were also local. After a remarkable meal, we were off to nearby Hotel Chateau-Bromont, our lux and comfortable home for the night.

We had a beautiful bi-level room at Hotel Chateau-Bromont with a gorgeous view of the mountains. After our abundant breakfast, we explored the property, wishing we had more time to lounge around the spa and pool area. We need a return visit to take advantage of the wellness offerings here and revisit the beautiful nature park! Another dinner at Old Mill would be wonderful, too.

Beer and Brunch

It was time to move on to the charming town of Dunham and the Brasserie Dunham, which brews its own beer. We took a table in the outdoor beer garden and finally, poutine was on the menu! We couldn’t resist ordering a plate to share.

Hearty sandwiches, salads, burgers and other beer-friendly fare make the Brasserie popular for lunch and dinner. The brewery offers beers from blonde lagers to IPAs to seasonal ales and stouts. Our group sampled several. Our wonderful driver Dave was behind the wheel so were able to indulge in adult beverages.

On the Wine Route

Our stomachs full, we headed out to explore the wine route of Brome-Missisquoi where about 60 percent of Québec’s wine is produced. Now home to more than 20 wineries, the 160-kilometer route winds through beautiful countryside, rolling hills and several pleasant towns in the Eastern Townships. There are itineraries for cars and bicycles available.

Domaine du Ridge

Our first stop was at Domaine du Ridge, a 200-acre property that includes fields, woodlands and 40 acres of vineyards. It’s a popular venue for weddings and other special events. Tours and tastings are by reservation at this 26-year-old winery.

In addition to still and sparkling wines, Domaine du Ridge produces a late harvest made with Vidal Blanc grapes called Bis d’Automne (Autumn Kiss), a dessert wine in the style of Pineau des Charentes, and Mystic, a vermouth. After sampling several still wines from their recent vintage it was time to move on to Vignoble de l’Ardennais.

Vignoble de l’Ardennais

You’ll know you have arrived at Vignoble de l’Ardennais when you see the giant bunny painted on the garage. This was my favorite, both for the wines and the charming owner, Pier Cousineau, who with his wife Stephanie Thibodeau, and adult children Charlotte and Eliot, run every facet of wine production from label design to vinification.

Other than Pinot Noir and Riesling, the grape varieties used here were unfamiliar to me. Seyval Noir, Chancellor, Petite Pearl, Frontenac Noir, Cayuga, and Marquette are hardy hybrid varietals that grow well in the often unforgiving Québec climate. Monsieur Cousineau uses them to full advantage to produce excellent wines and has been since 2016 when they acquired the property. The vineyards had been established by the previous owner in 1994. Grab a glass of Berthe rose and relax in the Adirondack chairs or picnic tables. That’s my idea of a perfect summer Sunday afternoon.

Dining en Plein Aire

It was a pleasant surprise to find that our Sunday dinner at Les Cocagnes in Frelighsburg would be prepared by chefs Emile Trembly and Sylvain Dervieux from Faux Bergers in Baie St. Paul, where we had spent the weekend before arriving in Québec City.

Les Cocagnes

Each summer weekend, chefs from throughout Québec set up shop at this bucolic spot in the Eastern Townships. After an aperitif and hand-sliced local prosciutto, we followed our hostess through the fields and vegetable gardens to the outdoor dining room for a memorable five-course tasting menu paired with local wines. Reservations are essential.

It was time to leave the Eastern Townships for Montérégie. La Cache du Lac Champlain across the street from Lake Champlain was our home for the evening. After depositing our bags in our large room with a golf course view, we headed out for a moonlight walk along the lake.

We couldn’t resist a local ice cream stand a few blocks away and enjoyed our cones while admiring the public art and private terraces along the lake front. These terraces, with outdoor furniture and boat docks, dot the lakefront while the homes are across the road.

Public Art

Les Amoureuses (The Lovers) by Veronique Pepin and Patrick Monast has space inside for two. It is the first work in a public art installation in Venice-en-Québec and will be on view through May 2026.

Ferme Guyon and Bonne Saint Jean

We heard people at breakfast greeting each other with “Bonne Saint Jean.” Saint Jean Baptiste (John the Baptist) is the patron saint of Québec, and the Fete de la Saint Jean is a national holiday in the province. This called for a slight change of plans and a trip to Ferme Guyon.

Just 30 minutes from Montreal, this is the supermarket of my dreams. Farm-fresh produce, fine cheeses, charcuterie, maple sugar everything (cotton candy!), and an extensive selection of local ciders, beer and wines, plus Québecois handicrafts make this a one-stop shop for picnic provisions or any meal you’d want to prepare. If you don’t have time to visit local fromageries, wineries and farms, a trip here will definitely give you a taste of local flavors!

The Ferme Guyon also has an educational farm with adorable baby animals and a butterfly pavilion, which in addition to housing lepidoptera, is the habitat of Oscar, a 14-year old tortoise. I could have spent the whole day here, but shopping completed, we headed off to Cidrerie Michel Jodoin on the Rougemont Cider and Montérégie Wine Route.

Jodoin Cider…

I adore champagne and was intrigued to learn that Monsieur Jodoin had worked in France’s Champagne region in the 1980s and returned to Québec with a plan to make a sparkling wine from apples using the traditional methode champenois. His family has been in the apple orchard business for five generations, ever since Jean-Baptiste Jodoin purchased 100 apple trees in 1901. Jodoin is now the largest grower of Geneva apples in North America.

Their award-winning ciders were delicious, and we enjoyed them thoroughly with our picnic lunch in the cidery’s cellars. My favorite was Attention Ca Va Faire Pomme! It’s packaged to look like champagne and captures the wine’s characteristics right down to the perlage or tiny bubbles in the glass.

Jodoin makes several refreshing roses from apples, a broad range of fruit flavored ciders, vermouth, and non- alcoholic drinks. They became the first micro distillery in the country in 1999 and we tasted their spirits, too.

No reservations are needed to visit the Cidrerie Michel Jodoin tasting room. Visitors are welcome to enjoy their picnics outside and can access the hiking trails here. During the summer their grounds are often the site of evening entertainment.

…and More Wine

Next, we stopped into Coteau Rougemont just down the road from Jodoin, to sample their wines. The winery was quiet due to the holiday, so we enjoyed a leisurely tasting outdoors overlooking the beautiful gardens and rolling hills of Montérégie. They also sell local honey, jams and maple syrup at the winery.

Spaaaah

It was time for a break. Bonjour Québec arranged a wonderful afternoon of complete relaxation at Strom Spa Nordique. The thermal waters and serene surroundings are the draw here and we took full advantage, moving from one temperature- controlled pool to another on the recommended circuit. After several hours of blissful soaking, it was dinnertime.

The menu at Bistro Nord at the Strom Spa spotlights artfully and healthily prepared local produce and every course was both. Executive Chef Raphael Podlasiewicz came out to describe each delicious dish to us. Reservations are required at the Strom Spa Nordique locations throughout Québec and in their restaurants as well.

We spent our last night in Québec at the Hotel Rive Gauche, just 20 minutes from Montreal. The hotel is on the Richelieu River, and we were able to see a bit of the Fete de la Saint Jean fireworks launched further upstream.

Sugar Shack

Our last stop on our extraordinary epicurean adventure was a visit to Sucrerie de la Montagne. This traditional “sugar shack” has been a site for maple syrup production in Montérégie since the 1930s. It has been owned by the Faucher family since 1978.

Unlike most, this sugar shack is open all year long, not just March to April during the “sugaring off” season. Owner Steven Faucher (shown above in front of a photo of his father) showed us where and how they make syrup.

We learned how trees are tapped using a spout and bucket and the “maple water” collected and turned into syrup. It takes 40 gallons of maple water to make one gallon of light or amber (medium) syrup, and 50 gallons to make a gallon of dark syrup! Amber is the most popular grade of syrup.

How They Make It

We also visited the massive oven, which was purpose-built in 1982 for bread baking and requires two bakers working six days a week to make enough loaves to feed workers and guests during the maple sugar season.

After finishing our tour of the buildings, we settled into their popular restaurant for a hearty meal, served with maple syrup made at Sucrerie de la Montagne, of course. During lunch we were entertained by live traditional Québecois music and afterwards given a lesson in playing the spoons by our jovial and charming host. Depending on when you visit, you may even see an axe-throwing demonstration near the general store, which has a wide selection of local goods, handicrafts and maple syrup products. Some syrup and tea towels made it into my suitcase!

Southern Quebec for Summer Fun

Our journey through Southern Québec was an unending series of delight and surprise, from the gorgeous countryside to the incredible cuisine. What will really stay with me is the warmth, generosity, and hospitality of the people I met in Centre-du-Québec, the Eastern Townships and Montérégie. Despite recent political tensions between our countries, the Québecois are wonderfully welcoming. Take them up on their offer to, “Come to the Eastern Townships and hug it out!”

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you. I appreciate it!

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