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Porto—Sinners, Saints, Art, and of course, Plenty of Port

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Welcome to Porto!

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine.  All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

The world- famous port houses Porto is named for are across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards.  No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.
Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden.  There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S.  for ports of this quality.

Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.
This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro.  It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below. 

Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.  

Museu Serralves–  Contemporary Collections

A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary.  Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan.  Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber. 

There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.
Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.
The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.

Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.
The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.

A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.
Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.
Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos.  A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower. 

Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia  is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself.  A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it. 

Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.

Shop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina.  Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha. 

Busy Rua Catarina is Porto’s main shopping thoroughfare and is limited to pedestrian traffic.

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao.  This is the place to pick up picnic provisions.  If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal. 

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal.  Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.

Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching.  We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.
Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira.  We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day!  We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices.  We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go. 

A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.
Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.

Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.
Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?

Sleep

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.  

Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.
The kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata.  The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here.  We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful. 

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage.  There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare.  There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto.  After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.
Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.
A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness. 

The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Adventures in Fatima and a Day in the Douro Valley

There are two things travelers must bring along on every trip—a sense of humor and resilience. You have to be flexible because sometimes, maybe even often, things do not go to plan. That’s where a sense of humor comes in handy. This was the case one Sunday in Portugal on what was to be our longest driving day– from Evora in the Alentejo, to the mountains above the Douro River in the north of Portugal, with a planned stop at the Shrine of Fatima. After consulting a map and Google, my husband, who always prefers to drive in Europe, agreed to the Fatima stop since it was right off the freeway.

It was time to leave the beautiful Alentejo in Portugal’s southwest and head north to the Douro Valley.

We did not get an early start, which is no surprise to anyone who knows us, but instead enjoyed a delicious, and leisurely, last breakfast at Convento do Espinheiro before setting off for the Douro Valley.

Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million pilgrims.

Imagine our surprise when two and half hours hours later we turned off the freeway heading for Fatima and were greeted by plenty of police and even more motorcyclists– thousands of them. Many of the roads leading to the Shrine were closed, there were detours everywhere, and there were motorcyclists—young, old, families, even dogs—all on two wheels.

Apparently everyone in Portugal, with the notable exception of these two visiting Americans, knew there was a special mass for motorcyclists that day. After spending about an hour in the traffic jam, we realized there was no possible way we could visit that day. We very sensibly decided to come back on a weekday on our return to Lisbon. I wish I had taken photos of the motorcyclists but didn’t want to risk offending anyone, and there was no possibility of a speedy getaway.  On our return visit, things were decidedly quieter.

This immense plaza, constructed for Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1987, can accommodate 1 million visitors. On Oct. 13 each year nearly that many people arrive to celebrate the anniversary of the apparition. On the day we visited, a week after our first attempt, there were very few visitors.

Turns out the plaza at Fatima between the basilica and the chapel can accommodate 1 million people– as it did when Pope John Paul II visited in 1987—and we imagined that nearly as many motorcyclists had made the pilgrimage that Sunday morning, too.

The open air Chapel of the Apparition was built on the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to the children.

Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million people. When we returned on a Tuesday afternoon a week later, there were no motorcyclists in sight and relatively few visitors.  It could have been the 114 degree heat that kept people away.

Many visitors light candles at the shrine and pray for intentions and interventions.

We visited the beautiful basilica and the Chapel of the Apparition where nuns recited the rosary in numerous languages.  We also took the time to light a few candles, which were available for sale at the shop and ranged in size from standard to enormous. There were candles as big as my arm.

There is a full schedule of masses, reciting the rosary and confessions offered every day.

It was so terribly hot, and since there was no shade on the plaza, we chose not to cross it to see the enormous rosaries and crucifix on the other side. That will have to wait for another visit. But now, back to our journey to the beautiful Douro Valley—

We enjoyed the drive from the Alentejo in the south to the Douro Valley in the north of Portugal. Be sure your rental car comes equipped with the Portuguese version of the Fast Pass.

Back to the freeway and on to our pousada we went, over winding mountain roads and bridges, through tunnels, and burned out forested areas. The main roads in Portugal are well- paved and well-marked. Smaller side roads are a little bit trickier, but we never had trouble finding our way even out in the countryside.  We ate our picnic lunch in the car to save time and arrived in Alijo about three and a half hours later. It had been a long day.

Scenic mountain roads took us north to the vineyards of the Douro Valley.

When we finally arrived at the Palacete Alijo, the first thing we noticed was the laundry hanging out to dry on the balconies. Inside, the pousada didn’t come close to living up to the photos we’d seen online. Perhaps someone had carefully cropped out the propane tanks next door and the rust marks surrounding the pool.

Sadly, this pousada in Alijo didn’t live up to expectations and we left without staying.

The website’s images didn’t deliver an accurate portrayal of the property. This was the view.

The website indicated the place was part of the well-respected Pestana Group. The friendly front desk clerk told us that it hadn’t been for nearly five years and offered us a “welcome” drink. He also mentioned that the air conditioner was broken, brought up a few other housekeeping issues and again offered a welcome drink. We had planned to stay for four nights but after seeing the accommodations, we turned down the drink and summoned up Trip Advisor on our phones.

This was the splendid view across the river to Pesa de Regua from our room at the Vila Gale Douro.

Vila Gale (a hotel group popular in Portugal and Spain) had a river view room available for two nights in the town of Peso de Regua, right on the Douro River. Back to the car we went, grateful we hadn’t brought our bags inside—we never do until after we’ve seen the room. After another hour of driving, this time in the dark through the winding mountain roads, and did I mention it was raining?—we arrived at the Vila Gale Douro.

The Vila Gale Douro, part of a popular group of hotels in Portugal and Spain, is well- located across the river from Peso de Regua.

While my husband put the rental car in the garage, I went to the restaurant on property to secure a table before they closed. It was 10:30 p.m. at this point and we were really hungry. I thought I was imagining things when I my heard my name called out and turned to find two dear friends from home finishing their dinners. Had we not changed our hotel, we would never have had the chance to spend time with them. We agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning.

Our Vila Gale room was large, comfortable and contemporary and had terrific views from the private balcony.

It was lovely to wake up to this beautiful view from our balcony.

Fans of Portuguese wines know that the steep terraced hillsides of the Douro Valley are home to numerous well-regarded producers of table wines and of course, port. Our friends were free in the morning but had to return to Porto in the afternoon. We agreed that a visit to a nearby winery would be the perfect outing.

We spent a fun and informative morning with our friends at Quinta do Vallado.

Grapes grow seemingly everywhere on the Douro Valley’s steep hillsides.

Like the wineries in the Alentejo, you must make reservations to tour and taste in the Douro Valley. My husband had his heart set on a visit to Quinta do Vallado but when he telephoned, he was told that the morning’s English- speaking tour was already full. With the help of our front desk clerk, we secured our spots.

Quinta do Vallado is a highly regarded producer of Douro wines and port. They also have a small hotel on property.

The winery is located high up on the terraced hillside across the river from where we were staying, just about a 10- minute drive away. One of the oldest in the Douro Valley, the winery celebrated its 300th anniversary in 2016. Once owned by Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira (of the Ferreira Port family), production was geared towards port for the company’s first 200 plus years. In 1993, they decided to restructure and expand into producing Quinta do Vallado label table wines and in 2009 construction on the new winery was completed.

Our tour began in the vineyards where some grapes had already been harvested.

We followed our guide from the vineyards, through the production facilities, and into the cellars, explaining each stage of wine making to the group in English. There are also tours given in Portuguese several times daily. We always ask if English tours are available, though rather than miss out, we’ve taken some in Italian, French and Portuguese.

Our knowledgeable tour guide explained the wine making process in detail– and in English.

We saw everything from the grapes growing, to high tech, temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, to the traditional granite legares in which grapes are crushed by foot, to the cellars where the barrels are stored and wines are aged before they’re bottled.

We saw state of the art temperature controlled stainless steel tanks…

…and traditional granite legares where grapes for port are crushed by foot.

Antique barriques are still in use.

New French oak barrels are also used, depending on the kind of wine they’re aging.

After the very informative tour, we all gathered around a communal table and tasted Quinta do Vallado’s wonderful wines, working our way from crisp whites to delicious ports. Many of us made purchases in the quinta’s well-stocked shop.

After our tour we gathered around for a wonderful wine tasting.

During the tasting, we sampled crisp whites, full-bodied reds and finally, ports.

The well-stocked shop beckoned many of the visitors, including our friends and ourselves.

Though we were not able to tour it, Quinta do Vallado has a small hotel on property with 13 rooms—five in the manor house built in 1733, and eight in the modern wing constructed in 2012.

The roads in the Douro are narrow and winding but exceptionally scenic.

There were two things we planned to do in the Douro—wine taste and take a boat ride. After saying goodbye to our friends at the winery, we headed to Pinhao to check out the river cruise options.

The Douro has been used to transport people, port and other products down river to Porto for centuries.

The Douro River meanders from Spain through the heart of northern Portugal down to Porto where it empties into the sea. For centuries, port wine has been transported by boat down river to the city that shares its name with the wine. Day trippers from Porto, cruise boats from lines like AMA and Viking, private pleasure craft, and charter boats large and small ply the waters of the Douro River.  Getting out on the river sounded like a perfect plan on that hot day.

Tourism is big business in the small town of Pinhao.

Pinhao is a small town seemingly fully committed to the tourist trade. There are souvenir shops everywhere and numerous choices for boat rides on the river. A one-hour ride is 10 euro from any of the vendors. We chose our boat based on schedule. They all come and go from the same place and follow a similar route.

River boats all leave from the same place and follow similar routes. Schedules differ but pricing does not. 10 Euro is typical for a one-hour boat ride.

Once aboard, you’ll learn all about the port trade and see many well-known names as you pass by the quintas. We had a delightful time and enjoyed chatting with newlyweds from the Netherlands and a Spanish couple. It was a relaxing and informative hour that passed in a heartbeat. We wished we’d opted for a longer ride.

Our convivial group included newlyweds from the Netherlands and a couple from Spain.

Bridges large and small cross the Douro.

Hillsides, which reminded us of California, are dotted with wineries.

You’ll see quintas with familiar names like Croft along with others that have been producing wine for centuries here.

Our journey was so peaceful and enjoyable we wished we’d booked a longer trip. Next time!

After our boat ride, we walked over to the historic Pinhao train station, which has been in service since 1880. The station is notable for its lovely azulejos—the blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous.

Trains have been transporting travelers to and from the Pinhao station since 1880.

The station is known for its azulejos– the stunning blue and white tiles famous throughout Portugal.

These particular azulejos tell the story of the port trade in 25 large panels that were installed in 1937. There is also a café and shop in the station perfect for a coffee, glass of wine or edible souvenirs.

Pinhao’s 25 panels tell the story of the port trade.

The azulejos were installed in 1937.

The shop inside the station is a pleasant place for a coffee, glass of wine or a snack.

After a leisurely stroll through town and a stop for ice cream and souvenir shopping, we headed back to Pesa de Regua and dinner.

This former industrial building has a new life as home to shops and restaurants.

Just across the bridge from our hotel is a renovated industrial building on R. Jose de Vasques that now houses several restaurants and shops.

Picnic provisions and edible souvenirs are available here.

The contemporary dining room at Castas e Pratos was full on the Monday night we ate here.

We browsed a bit and then headed to Castas e Pratos for our meal. Part wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant, the place was buzzing when we arrived. We were glad we had a reservation upstairs in the airy and modern dining room.

Our starter was a plate of succulent scallops in a rich pea puree.

The tender veal medallions in roquefort sauce was served with a delicious wild mushroom risotto.

Larger parties were sharing dishes like this “Duck Rice”– a local specialty. It looked and smelled divine.

The menu has something for most tastes and includes fish, meat and vegetarian options.

Wines from all over Portugal were featured on the extensive wine list.

We started with a refreshing sparkling rose and ended with a nice tawny port.

Castas e Pratos has an extensive wine list featuring wines from the Douro and as well as all of the other wine producing areas of Portugal. Service was attentive and friendly and we enjoyed every bite of our meal from the scallop starter through desert. Happy and full, we returned to the Vila Gale to plan our next day’s adventure.

Lisbon’s Beautiful Belem

The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.

There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.

Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belem was the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.

The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.

Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimos and its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.

St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.

The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.

Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.

Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.

We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.

Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.

Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.

The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.

Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.

This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.

The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.

After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.

This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.

In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.

You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…

Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.

This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one,  everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!

Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.

If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem   (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner.   It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.

We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.

Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.

We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.

The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.

The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.

Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.

This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!

Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.

When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.

We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.

Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.

Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.

The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.

Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.

There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.

On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!

Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.

Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.

We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!

Portugal’s Mysterious Megaliths

Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arqueologia has numerous treasures including megaliths.

We saw our first megalith in Lisbon’s Museum of Archeology and we were intrigued. What were these stones with their strange markings? Where could we see more of them? It turns out the largest collection of megaliths on the Iberian peninsula is located less than two hours from Lisbon in the Alentejo region not far from Evora, the area’s capital city.

Drive in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees to reach Almendres Cromlech.

There are numerous places to see megaliths in Portugal, many in the Alentejo, but Cromeleque dos Almendres, or Almendres Cromlech, is the largest and most prominent site. Older than Stonehenge, Cromeleque dos Almendres is located about seven kilometers off the main road, the N114, driving towards Evora from Lisbon. We were heading to the Evora after Lisbon and decided to include a stop to see these archeological wonders.

The megaliths are in a large clearing, surrounded by cork oak trees.

Head in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees. The dirt road is clearly marked with signs–Cromeleque dos Almendres and Menhir dos Almendres– directing you to the site. You will either need a car or a taxi to get here. There is no public transportation available.

Visitors can wander freely around the 95 remaining megaliths, or menhirs, at Almendres Cromlech.

About 95 of the granite megaliths, also called menhirs, still stand in the area and date back to the Neolithic Period (4th and 5th century BC). The stones at Almendres Cromlech are arranged to form two rings and visitors are free to wander all around the area, though touching the stones is discouraged.

The Cromeleque dos Almendres is older than Stonehenge.

It is believed that the earliest stones were placed here in 6000 BC and that ancient peoples used the area at Almendres Cromlech until 3000 BC for religious purposes. There is still a great deal of mystery surrounding the purpose of the stones, their placement and the markings on them, but there is speculation that the site had astrological significance due to its latitudinal location.

The placement, purpose and meaning of the megaliths remains largely a mystery.

There is a map of the enclosure on site, which identifies particular menhirs and describes various markings on the different stones.

Helpful signs in English and Portuguese explain the history of Almendres Cromlech and a map of the area shows where the most important stones are located.

This is identified as megalith number 1 on the posted diagram. The markings are clearly visible.

A careful examination is required to see the ancient markings on many of the stones. Here’s a close up look at one.

Admission to the site is free. Guided tours can be arranged.

We chose to take a self-guided exploration of the area but guided tours can be arranged. We met a Canadian couple that had hired a tour company to take them out to Almendres Cromlech and explain the mysteries of this ancient site and they thoroughly enjoyed their visit. Admission to the site is free and there is plenty of parking.

 

 

Evora: The Alentejo’s Capital City

The Vasco da Gama bridge led us away from lively Lisbon to the rural beauty of the Alentejo.

An easy 90- minute drive southeast of Lisbon takes you to the expansive Alentejo region. Home to medieval villages, castles, palaces, pousadas, megaliths, wine producers, and vast agricultural lands, this beautiful area has something to please nearly all visitors. We made Evora, the capital of the region, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our headquarters. This delightful small city is a great base from which to launch day trips to the many attractions in the area.

The Alentejo’s capital city is best explored on foot– wearing comfortable shoes, of course.

Remember to look up as you wander!

The historic city of Evora has interesting sites and several museums to explore. Just walking the winding streets is a fine way to spend a day, especially in the area around the Largo Conde de Vila Flor. After a pleasant stroll through the Praca do Giraldo, Evora’s bustling main square, we considered our options.

The busy Praca do Giraldo is at the heart of the city. Numerous shopping streets fan off from the Praca.

Cork is king in the Alentejo and is featured in souvenirs from sandals to handbags.

Portuguese pottery is also a popular souvenir.

Time was short so we had to make choices.  We decided to save the Contemporary Art Museum for our next visit and headed over to the Museum of Evora, which was hosting a Chinese porcelain exhibition along with its permanent collections.

The Museum of Evora is housed in a former Episcopal palace built in the 17th century.

Beautiful Azulejos tiles line the stone staircase inside the museum.

Teapots, serving pieces, jewelry and other treasures from China are featured in the current exhibition at the museum.

Placards describe the fine Chinese porcelain plates on display in Portuguese and English.

The museum features paintings from the 15th through 19th centuries, drawings, engravings, 17th and 18th century furniture, and Roman sculpture from the 1st and 2nd centuries.

The museum is known for it’s 17th and 18th century painting and sculpture. This piece is by Antonio Teixeira Lopes.

Religious articles, like St. Blaise’s arm reliquary from the 17th century, are part of the permanent collection.

Visitors can see this striking bronze sculpture, statuary, mosaics and other artifacts from the Roman era.

Interesting archeological finds from the Neolithic Age and a collection of silver and gold religious pieces, and jewelry are also on display. There were few visitors on the day we were there.

Antiquities from numerous ancient civilizations are on view.

Artifacts from the Roman era line a courtyard hallway.

Just outside the museum is the Roman Temple from the 1st century AD. Today, the ruins are undergoing restoration and are under wraps, but it is possible to see several of the Corinthian columns.

The Roman Temple which dates from the 1st century is mentioned in all the guide books, but until the restoration is complete, there isn’t much to see.

There is a small park behind the temple that offers nice views over the area beyond Evora and across the way you’ll find a lovely pousada, once a monastery that is now an upmarket hotel called Pousada dos Loios. Feel free to wander inside and take a step back into Portugal’s past. The restaurant here is open to the public.

Here’s a peek at the courtyard and restaurant at Pousada dos Loios.

This small park behind the Roman Temple provided a nice place to relax and enjoy the views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Many people line up at Evora’s Church of St. Francis to visit the Chapel of the Bones or Capela dos Ossis. The 16th century chapel displays the bones and skulls of monks. We’ve seen the creepy Capuchin Crypt in Rome so felt no need to stop in after our visit to the church. The public gardens beside the church were much more appealing.

Inside the Church of St. Francis.

The Chapel of the Bones is a popular tourist attraction inside the Church of St. Francis.

If you have time, stop into Evora’s Cathedral or Se.  It’s one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Southern Portugal and is said to be built on the site of a former mosque.

Here are the marvelously mismatched spires of Evora’s cathedral.

Close to the Church of St. Francis, you’ll find Evora’s morning market.  The market is indoors and was smaller than some we’ve visited, but we also arrived fairly late in the morning after many of the vendors had closed up shop.  Happily, there were several purveyors of tasty cheeses, cured meats, and fruits and vegetables still open.

Many vendors had already packed up and gone home by the time we arrived at the market but there was still plenty to choose from.

Everything you need for a nice picnic is right here–local pork products, sheep and goat’s milk cheeses and other tasty treats.

Evora has lodging options to fit many budgets and preferences. We chose to stay at two very different, but both delightful properties in and near the city. We began our stay at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario, just inside the walls of the city www.hotel@albergariadocalvario.com.

 

We enjoyed our stay at the small, well-located Albergaria do Calvario.

Located just inside the ancient Roman walls, it was easy to walk all around the city and access the freeway quickly for daytrips from our hotel.

The location made it easy to walk to Evora’s important sites as well as to dinner each evening. It was also convenient to reach the freeway for our day trips further afield. We’ll discuss dining and day trips in additional posts.

The comfortable bar area welcomes guests for drinks and light bites.

Ours was a large, comfortable room with a big balcony overlooking the hotel’s courtyard where many guests enjoyed breakfast, aperitifs, and conversation. Rooms vary substantially in size so be sure to explore your options when booking.

Our room was large and bright with a huge balcony overlooking the courtyard.

The marble used here is mined nearby. There is a Museum of Marble in Vila VIcosa we”ll visit next time.

There is no restaurant per se in the hotel, but they do provide a substantial breakfast buffet and have small meals, snacks, and drinks on offer in the bar. Anything ordered can be enjoyed in the courtyard, the bar area or one of the comfortable sitting areas.

This is just a small part of the bountiful buffet breakfast greeting guests each morning.

The courtyard provides a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast, drinks, or just relax.

Friendly staff are happy to help with restaurant bookings, excursion ideas or whatever you need to make your stay memorable.

The staff is extremely helpful and will even park and retrieve your car for you. Parking is available onsite at no additional charge. Laundry service is also available at a very reasonable price. The only thing we missed at this charming, small hotel was a pool, but we got that at our next hotel–Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa.

Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro.

We also spent several nights about 15 kilometers outside of Evora at the stunning Convento do Espinheiro. The converted convent was built in 1458 and when we stayed, was part of the Luxury Collection group managed by www.starwood.com. The property has traditional rooms in the original buildings as well as two modern wings.

We had a large room in the modern wing of the hotel, complete with a nice balcony.

We enjoyed our stay in the modern wing where we had a very large room with a balcony and views over the property towards to the inviting swimming pool. After nearly 10 days of non-stop touring it was the perfect place to take break.

The pool provided the perfect place for relaxation, lunch, drinks and a refreshing dip.

There is also an indoor pool and a nice spa on site where I enjoyed a relaxing massage. There are tours given daily of the expansive Convento which covers the property’s fascinating history.

Ancient olive trees dot the property which dates back to 1458.

These stone benches have been here since the property was a functioning convent.

There is no charge for the tour, which includes a visit to the beautiful church (still in use), monk’s cistern where a complimentary wine tasting is held each evening, the former dining area and kitchen, as well as the vaulted storage cellar which now houses the hotel’s terrific restaurant.

Convento do Espinheiro was one of the three wealthiest convents in Portugal. The church is still in use today.

The bells, one original, ring out to announce a wedding has taken place.

The wine cellar is housed in the monk’s former cistern, which was once filled with water.

A complimentary wine tasting take place each evening at 6 p.m. in the wine cellar.

We ate dinner there each night of our stay. The food is artfully prepared and beautifully presented by top-notch staff. Be sure to reserve for dinner or prepare to be disappointed—the dining room fills up. Should you choose to go offsite for your dinner and prefer not to drive, the helpful staff can arrange for a taxi into Evora.

Fresh local fish elegantly prepared is served with flair.

Luscious lamb chops with squash puree are featured on the menu.

Save room for dessert.

Where monks once stored their wine, olive oil and honey, hotel guests now enjoy a bountiful breakfast buffet. It is possible to enjoy your morning repast out on one of the terraces or in the courtyard area, as we did.

The former storage for olive oil, wine and honey, now serves as the hotel’s elegant dining room.

We also arranged to see some of the traditional rooms including the “royal suite” used by many honeymoon couples. It is truly spectacular in a beautiful old-world way and features a  contemporary bathroom and private rooftop terrace.

The “royal suite” often used by honeymooners offers old world charm and opulence.

The suite’s bathroom features modern fixtures like this free standing tub.

A private rooftop terrace, one flight up from the suite provides glorious views of the area around the Convento.

If your travel plans include a trip to Portugal, don’t miss the beautiful Alentejo. We’re looking forward to our return to this fascinating area.

 

 

 

 

Hats Off to Degas–Lucas Shakes Things Up at SF’s Legion of Honor

San Francisco’s venerable Palace of Legion of Honor, part of the city’s Fine Arts Museums, is currently hosting the very popular Degas, Impressionism and the Paris Millinery Trade.

The extensive exhibition focuses on the impact of the millinery trade in Paris during the Belle Epoch era on the work of Degas and his contemporaries.  Paintings and pastels by Degas, Renoir, Edouard Manet, Mary Cassatt, Toulouse- Lautrec and others, some never before shown in the U.S., are featured. In addition to the splendid impressionist paintings, included in the exhibition are 40 marvelous examples of millinery from that time period—in other words—hats!

Hats featuring flowers were popular in the 19th and 20th centuries. Silk, cotton, velvet and paper were all used to construct artificial flowers like those shown here.

Some patrons were definitely in the spirit of things.

These hats range in size and complexity from the sublime to over the top. One chapeau is topped with an entire owl, which had been preserved specifically for that purpose. There are plumes, beads, metallic wire, ribbons and flowers adorning these mostly enchanting toppers.

Plumage from domestic and exotic birds, including ostrich and owls, often were used to embellish luxury ladies’ hats.

These hats all sport fashionable feathers. The hat on the left features a complete owl while the one on the right has an African starling above its brim.

A visitor admires Manet’s “At the Milliner’s”–one of about 40 paintings and pastels in the exhibition.

Men’s hats are included in the exhibit too. There are fine examples including boater and bowler hats, along with a sketch of Degas himself in a top hat.

Bowlers and top hats, along with carrying cases, are part of the exhibit.

The 42 year-old Edgar Degas is shown here wearing a top hat.

The exhibition was quite crowded, mostly with ladies of a certain age, oohing and ahhing over the millinery creations. There were a few patrons sporting hats and we spotted several of the museum’s docents in the spirit of things– wearing lovely fascinators.

Feathered finery got a lot of attention from visitors.

We didn’t take a docent-guided tour but shared our table at lunch with a group of ladies from the San Jose area who had and raved about it. It is necessary to reserve a spot for a guided tour in connection with this exhibit.

This docent wears a fine fascinator for her presentation. Reservations for the free tours are essential for this exhibition.

Some of the Impressionist paintings in this exhibition have not been shown in the U.S. before.

Special exhibition tickets are required for the Degas exhibit, in addition to the general admission fee for the museum. This doesn’t seem to be keeping the crowds away at all downstairs. There were numerous tour groups vying to get close to the works during our midweek trip to the Legion of Honor.

Special exhibition tickets are required, in addition to general admission. The galleries became quite crowded at times.

Upstairs in the galleries featuring Rodin’s classic sculpture, visitors can enjoy near solitude—at least during our visit. Displayed with the August Rodin: The Centenary Installation, which honors the 100th anniversary of the artist’s death, you’ll find the provocative work of Sarah Lucas. Sarah Lucas:Good Muse is the first major exhibition of the UK artist’s work in the U.S.

The museum is best known for its ancient and classical European collections which includes paintings, sculpture, furnishings and porcelain.

Sarah Lucas’ work brings contemporary art and controversy to the Legion of Honor.

Sarah Lucas:Good Muse would probably be much more comfortable at the SFMOMA (SF Museum of Modern Art) than at the classically- focused Legion of Honor. The docent who provided a tour of the exhibition shared that many patrons and members of the museum were more than a little unhappy with Lucas’ work.

Giant plaster cast boots, soft sculptures and a series of Lucas’ yellow urinal sculptures are on display among the 50 bronze, plaster and marble works by Rodin.

Lucas’ sculptures, made from plaster, panty hose, florescent lights, a bedspring and mattress, cigarettes and other materials, allude to sexual interactions, availability, empowerment, and domestic responsibilities, according to the docent. She also pointed out examples where Rodin’s work related to the themes of Lucas’ pieces.

“Washing Machine Fried Eggs” invites discussion of women’s sexual and domestic roles.

Apparently the artist wanted to “bring color” to the galleries and chose to include a series of yellow urinal sculptures displayed atop small refrigerators, placed among Rodin’s classic sculpture. We found the juxtaposition interesting but could easily understand the contretemps. At the entrance to the galleries where Lucas’ work is displayed, there are signs warning that the art may not be appropriate for all viewers. We have chosen not to include photos of the most controversial work for that reason.

Electricity in this piece “keeps the energy up” according to the artist.

Degas, Impressionism and the Paris Millinery Trade closes September 24 and Sarah Lucas: Good Muse closes September 17. Go see these very different exhibitions for yourself and let us know what you think. A day at the Palace of Legion of Honor is always a day well spent.

Puppets in Palermo—A Stopover in Sicily’s Biggest City

 

Welcome to Palermo.

We took a drive right up the center of Sicily on SS624 to reach Palermo. The ride is scenic, beautiful and pretty straightforward. As you approach, you’ll be greeted with breathtaking views of the city sprawl and the bay—bellissimo!

Palermo is Sicily’s capital city and it’s most populous. Its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture, cultural attractions, and incredible cuisine draw visitors from around the world.

Palermo is the largest and busiest city in Sicily and has plenty to offer the visitor looking for a bustling urban experience. We had less than two full days in Palermo and there is far more to see and do than we had time for.

The simple facade of Monreale Cathedral gives no indication of the superb golden mosaics inside this “must see” church.

Let your first stop in Palermo be a visit to Monreale Cathedral. This stunning cathedral has golden mosaics that rival, and some say surpass, those at Venice’s Basilica San Marco (St. Mark’s). This is truly a spectacular church, considered to be the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily, and should not be missed. The somewhat plain façade belies the beauty that awaits inside.

The breathtaking golden mosaics inside Monreale Cathedral rival those at St. Mark’s (San Marco) Basilica in Venice.

Narrow, busy streets and overcrowding make parking a challenge in Palermo and the area surrounding the cathedral is no exception. There is a well-marked, supervised pay parking garage just down the road from the cathedral. Walk carefully along the alley- like street back up to the church.

The clear message here is: Do not park in front of this garage. Parking is always tricky in Palermo. When in doubt, find a pay lot.

After enjoying the splendor of the cathedral, we had a terrific lunch at Bricco e Bacco Brasserie, just kitty corner from the cathedral. It was a lovely place with good, local specialties and friendly service. Since we arrived after the lunch crowd, it was also quiet. You’ll find the restaurant at Via B. D’Aquisto, 13, Monreale, Phone for a reservation +39 091 641 7773. It’s a popular spot.

Driving in Palermo can be a harrowing experience and is not for the faint hearted.

Wind your way down into the city proper, navigating traffic carefully. All bets are off in Palermo and traffic can be heavy. Stop signs seem to be a mere suggestion and traffic signals are also sometimes ignored.

Farm fresh fruits and vegetables are sold at stands throughout the city. Be aware that in Sicily, what we call broccoli is cauliflower here.

Street markets like this one, selling clothing, dry goods, kitchen wares and other necessities can be found throughout Palermo. Ask for a “piccolo sconto”– a discount. Bargaining is part of the fun.

We really enjoyed walking all around the city to get the flavor of it and to get our bearings on our first visit.  We covered a lot of ground, including the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel, which is Palermo’s “high street.” Here you’ll find upscale shops and stylish boutiques, cafes and bars. Palermo also has numerous street markets with household necessities, clothing and dry goods, fruit stands, and food stalls, including the well known Vucciria and Ballaro markets.

Hands down, our favorite cultural institution in Palermo was the Museo Internazionale delle Marrionette. Yes, it is a puppet museum and far more compelling than you might expect. Sicily has a strong tradition of puppetry used for both entertainment and political commentary dating back centuries.

In addition to providing entertainment, puppet shows were often used to express political and social view points, particularly when the literacy rate was low.

Plan to spend at least a few hours enjoying the expansive collection and exhibits at the International Museum of Puppetry.

The museum’s collection includes more than 3,000 puppets of all kinds from around the world.

Marionette soldiers in full armament along with their battle- ready horses are on display in this large gallery.

The attention to detail and historical accuracy of the costumes is impressive.

They have puppets and marionettes from around the world, from the simplest paper puppets to the most elaborate marionettes. You’ll see everything from fairy princesses and dragons to entire armies dressed in armament from throughout the ages, all with remarkable attention to detail.

Even Laurel and Hardy make an appearance here.

You’ll find examples of puppets from the primitive to the extraordinarily elaborate.

Puppets from around the world including Africa, Indonesia and Japan are represented.

There are also a variety of settings and backdrops on view. We found our visit to the marionette museum to be an absolutely enchanting experience. The museum hosts puppet shows, too, of course.

Enjoy these fine examples of Japanese Bunraku puppets.

The museum often hosts puppet shows and has videos of productions on view.

For more information and show times, please visit www.museomarionettepalermo.it The museum is at the end of Via Butera on the Piazzetta Antonio Pasqualina, 5.

Known for its medieval art collection, the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia at Palazza Abatellis is a former palatial residence dating back to the 1490s, which went on to become a convent and then a monastery. It is now a regional gallery and museum.

Built for the Kingdom of Sicily’s Port Master, this fine former residence now houses an impressive collection of Medieval art and other treasures.

Here you will find sculptures, frescoes and paintings by Italian artists, as well as Flemish and other European masters, sacred art, weaponry and more.

Sculpture, paintings, religious art and more await visitors at the Palazzo Abatellis.

Though the building suffered terrible damage during Allied bombing raids in WWII, frescoes such as these from the 1400s survived.

Unfortunately the website has not been updated for some time so it is best to call the museum at +39 091 623 0011. It is located at Via Allora, 4.

To see how the upper class lived centuries ago, visit the Palazzo Mirto www.casemuseoitalia.it/en.   The Palazzo Mirto is part of a network of “house museums” found throughout Italy. It was originally built for the Filangeri family in the mid 17th century and falls into the ancestry category of homes.

The Palazzo Mirto provides a glimpse at the opulence the upper classes enjoyed during the time of the Kingdom of Sicily.

The palazzo is filled with beautifully appointed rooms featuring elaborate furnishings, ceramics, antique musical instruments, and art. One of the most spectacular is the Chinese Room, likely decorated in 1876 when the house was renovated.

The Chinese Room was the height of fashion when it was designed in the mid 1800s.

There are also classic carriages on display along with other historic treasures that paint a picture of Sicilian life for the upper class in the days before the Risorgimento when Sicily was still a kingdom.

Splendid furnishings and elegant porcelain are among the items on display at Palazzo Mirto.

The museum is located at Via Merlo, 2 and telephone is +39 091 616 4751 for updated information.

Enjoy a performance or take a guided tour– these are the only ways to get inside the magnificent Teatro Massimo.

If there is a performance at the Teatro Massimo, get a ticket and go. Regularly scheduled dance, opera, and classical music are all performed here. If you’re feeling flush, you, too, can rent the royal box —you just have to purchase all 27 seats in it.

The Teatro Massimo is known for its excellent acoustics and grand stage.

If time does not permit you to attend a performance, take a guided tour, which is the only other way to see the inside of this magnificent and historic building.

This beautiful and historic theater is among the largest in Europe.

A model of the theater is displayed in the lobby.

The theater boasts one of the largest stages in Europe and is worth seeing. Built in 1897, it is known for its outstanding acoustics and is still the largest theater in Italy with 1,300 seats. It is appropriately located on the Piazza Verdi. +39 091 6053580 www.teatromassimo.it.

The Politeama Garabaldi Theater hosts regular performances in Palermo’s historic city center.

We wanted to visit the highly regarded National Archeological Museum but it was closed for renovations during our visit. Please go to www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/salinas for current information.

A stroll through Sicily’s capital city yields surprises.

We did not visit the Catacombe dei Cappuccine, the home of about 8,000 dead bodies, amassed over the course of several hundred years, all dressed up and on display. We find the entire enterprise rather ghoulish and having seen the Capuccine Chapel in Rome, which features skeletons of dead monks, felt no obligation to see this seemingly far more ambitious enterprise. Apparently it is a popular place on many tourist itineraries and so we mention it here.

Flags fly outside the Porta Felice Hotel on the small but busy Via Butera.

There are lodgings at all price points and with all levels of service, as you would expect in a large city like Palermo. We stayed at Hotel Porta Felice www.hotelportafelice.it/en at Via Butera, 45. Tele. 091 6175678. This is in the old section of town near the port.

Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd the marina at the end of Via Butera.

Even though the hotel is on what appears to be a small side street, it is pretty busy. We were upgraded to a nice suite, even though we’d booked through www.venere.com. The location was very convenient and we walked everywhere we wanted to go, after turning in our rental car.

Friendly service and excellent Sicilian specialties await diners at L’Ottava Nota.

We only had two nights in Palermo and wound up having dinner both evenings just down the street from our hotel at L’Ottava Nota Ristorante, via Butera 55 091 6168601 www.ristoranteottavanota.it.   The restaurant was small and lovely with fantastic food and great service. The fish dishes were all spectacular. Everything was fresh, artfully prepared and delicious.

Perfectly prepared pasta makes a delicious first course.

White fish in a light curry broth was a favorite.

 

Seafood dishes were the star attraction for us, but L’Ottova Nota has superb meat and vegetable dishes, too.

A fish in a light curry broth with vegetables was so good I still think about it, though it is no longer on the menu. We mentioned we were staying at the Porta Felice and were happily surprised to learn we’d get a 20 percent discount on our meal because we were guests there. We cannot confirm that the special pricing is still available but it never hurts to ask, should you dine here. The restaurant is just a few doors down from Porte Felice on Via Butera, 55. The telephone is +39 091 616 8601.

We had an excellent lunch at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli, www.trattoriapiccolonapoli.it. Piccolo Napoli had been recommended by an Italian friend in the wine business but apparently Anthony Bourdain had once dined here and the owner told us that lots of Americans had been showing up ever since. Our welcome was much more cordial when we told him (in Italian) that his friend Sasha had sent us! Try the panisse (chick pea fritters) to start and have any seafood you like—it is all super fresh and simply, but deliciously, prepared.

Snack on some panisse as you peruse the menu.

Simply but perfectly prepared pastas and seafood dishes shine at Piccolo Napoli.

Through a small window into the kitchen, we watched the chef toss a whole octopus into a pot, plate it and serve it to a young girl who devoured every bit. We had pasta with shellfish and then I had a beautiful swordfish dish. For dessert, they brought us the ubiquitous “winter melon.” The melon is sweet and refreshing and so called winter melon because it can be picked in the summer and stored throughout the winter.  We saw it on menus throughout Sicily. The restaurant is on the Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4. Telephone is +39 091 320431.

Palermo is a fascinating and vibrant city and certainly worth a visit. We’ll be back.

Our final meal in Palermo was an extremely casual, but excellent pizza lunch at the airport, which we enjoyed out on the observation deck with a view of planes coming and going, and of course, the beautiful sea!

 

 

Motorcycle Mania—Moto Talbott Collection

I’m not much of a motorcycle aficionado myself, but I have been married to one for enough years to recognize the distinctive sound of a Ducati from a distance. On our recent trip to California’s Monterey Peninsula, we drove up to Carmel Valley to indulge in some wine tasting and discovered the Moto Talbott Collection. My husband’s delight quickly faded when he saw the motorcycle museum was closed, but fate smiled once again when founder Robb Talbott appeared in the courtyard.

Moto Talbott is a “must see” for motorcycle aficionados.

We had a nice chat, but Mr. Talbott was off to an appointment so no chance for a sneak peek behind the gates that day. We left with the promise to return later that week; my husband clutching the newly printed brochure Robb had kindly given him.

Rare, vintage, award- winning and beautifully restored motorcycles, all with stories to tell, await visitors to Moto Talbott.

Bright and early that Friday morning, we returned to Moto Talbott. In the courtyard were the museum’s newest acquisitions—two BMW Isetta 300s. Originally produced in Italy in the 1950s, Issetas are known as micro cars or “cabin scooters.” These two had been languishing in a hayloft in a Northern California barn for more than 40 years. Robb had picked them up just the night before.

These Isseta micro cars had just arrived after languishing in a hayloft for 40 years.

The Moto Talbott Collection opened in November 2016 and has been  attracting motorcycle fans from all over the world ever since. The collection is mostly motorcycles (more than 170 of them) but also features scooters, vintage transportation- themed toys, motorcycle memorabilia and more. The bikes are artfully displayed in a 6,000 square foot building with walls of snow barrier board trucked in from Wyoming and constructed by hand. Every detail has been carefully thought through.

This BMW is handsomely displayed against a handcrafted wall of Wyoming snow barrier board.

There are some real gems in the collection, including the Ducati Marianna that won the very last Motogira D’Italia in 1956 and is credited with saving the Ducati Company from possible closure. There’s a terrific photo of the wining rider, Guiliano Maoggi, with a cigarette clenched in his teeth on the wall above the bike, along with the fascinating story of his victory.

Visitors can learn about the last Motogiro d’Italia and the winning Ducati’s intriguing victory tale.

Steve McQueen’s 1931 VL Harley is there, as is a demonstration bike from WWII with the gas tank and engine covering cut away so soldiers training on it could learn what went where. This particular bike, which is quite a rare find, came to the collection complete with troop movement maps, gloves and a fully- functioning Thompson sub-machine gun, which has since been rendered inoperable.

Every bike has a fascinating story and a great deal of history behind it, including this rare WWII demo bike.

There’s a Vespa specially designed to promote Coach’s leather goods, a motorcycle that was buried in the backyard to protect it from certain destruction in a fire, race and award winners, beautiful restorations, trial bikes, rare and vintage motorcycles—they’re all here.

Each Coach logo was carefully hand painted on this promotional Vespa.

What really makes a trip to Moto Talbott special is the opportunity to learn the history and stories behind these bikes from the engaging and knowledgeable docents. We were fortunate to spend the morning with Rich Watson, former Economics professor at UC Santa Barbara and a lifelong lover of motorcycles. Rich could not have been more informative and entertaining. We were captivated by the intriguing tales he told, from his description of riders being impaled by enormous splinters during the American board racing days of the early 1900s to stories of unbeatable BSAs.

Engaging docents like Rich Watson enrich the visitor’s experience by sharing the stories and history behind the bikes.

These Indians from the early 1900s were used for American board racing– an extremely dangerous form of motorcycle racing not permitted for decades.

The impressive collection currently features road bikes and dirt bikes from 16 countries, from the Czech Republic to Mexico. MV Agusta, BSA, Bultaco, BMW, Indian, Harley Davidson, Kawaski, Maico, Gilera, Triumph, Honda—nearly every notable motorcycle company is represented here.

Road bikes and dirt bikes from around the globe are part of the collection at Moto Talbott.

The “Riders for Health” motorcycle under the orange vest traveled more than 80,000 kms bringing health care and aid to those in need in Zimbabwe.

The former proprietor of the highly regarded Talbott Vineyards and chairman of the board of the eponymous clothing company his family founded, Robb Talbott’s commitment to excellence and quality is as apparent in the Moto Talbott Collection as it was in his previous endeavors. The museum was at least three years in the making and was created so that he could “…share his passion for bikes and beauty… And mostly to share the stories of these bikes and their history.” The museum’s mission statement rings especially true after talking with Robb—”preservation, restoration and education…all driven by passion.”

Some of founder Robb Talbott’s vintage toys are displayed here.

We also had the chance to meet Bobby Weindorf, the museum’s curator and chief restorer.   Motorcycles have been part of Bobby’s life since he was 12 years old. His career was built on his passion: five years with American Honda’s factory road race and Supercross/Motocross teams; a dealership in Santa Barbara for 10 years, and several years in Italy working with motorcycle race teams. When asked about his three favorite bikes in the collection, he chose the 1977 MV Agusta 850SS because, “It’s big, powerful and makes a bold Italian statement,” a 1977 Hodaka Super Combat Wombat, “…cute dirt bike with an awesome name,” and a 1965 BMW R 69S in Granada Red, for it’s “pure elegance in a rare color…”

Moto Talbott is dedicated to preservation, restoration and education–and doing a spectacular job in all three area.

Bobby noted that Moto Talbott will continue to evolve: expanding and changing the collection, offering events, and continuing to educate visitors, preserve the “survivors,” and restore the classic motorcycles that he and the others involved in this marvelous museum have worked so tirelessly to make accessible to motorcycle lovers from around the world.

Update–The museum has been temporarily closed due to Covid-19.  For more information click here.

San Francisco’s Star-Studded Dining Scene: Al’s Place, Lord Stanley, Kin Khao, SBP

Forget any notion of stuffy dining rooms, pretentious servers and worshipful silence that Michelin- starred restaurants may conjure in your mind. A recent trip to San Francisco showed beyond a doubt that dining in that city’s expanding constellation of contemporary, casual (unless you feel like dressing up), one star Michelin restaurants is more about revelry than reverence.

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Think fun not fussy at San Francisco’s constellation of one-star Michelin restaurants.

Al’s Place, Lord Stanley, and Kin Khao were on our list this time, as well as a return to State Bird Provisions, which we discussed in detail in a previous post.

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Al’s Place

We were only able to get a 5:30 p.m. reservation on a Sunday night at the very popular Al’s Place. The sparely decorated room was packed when we arrived. There are only 46 seats at this Mission District eatery and they are in high demand—it’s no wonder with Chef/owner Aaron London at the helm. His creative cookery is the reason Bon Appetit magazine named Al’s Place best new restaurant of 2015. Just about everything coming out of the tiny kitchen was remarkable.

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Chef Aaron London (AL’s Place) was kind enough to stop and smile for a quick pic. His fantastic fries are pictured to his left.

We were a party of four that night so had the chance to sample quite a bit of the menu, which is designed for sharing. One of our guests had food sensitivities but the kitchen was incredibly accommodating.

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There’s a reason Al’s Place is packed. The food is stellar and the service exceptional.

Start with some Snackles—small dishes just right for munching while you enjoy an aperitif and decide what else you’d like to eat. We had chickpeas Catalan style and the highly touted brined French fries served with a smoked apple dipping sauce. The fries lived up to their reputation–crispy and differently delicious!

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Catalan style chick peas with a tasty Romesco sauce was one of the snackles we chose.

Next up were the Cold/Cool choices. Some eyes rolled when I suggested a salad, but our server, Rebecca, assured us that this would be the most beautiful salad ever and she was right—cool, crisp greens, avocado, pistachio, all topped with lovely edible flowers.

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A beautiful salad, indeed.

We also chose the green bean casserole. This is not the casserole of anybody of a certain age’s youth—the dish was composed of perfectly cooked green beans served cold with tiny tomatoes, micro greens, basil, and creamy burrata—yum!

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Not your mother’s green bean casserole.

The black lime cod in stone fruit curry was the star of the Warm/Hot offerings, for us. The fish was perfectly prepared and the curry was complex with just the right amount of heat.

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The cod in stone fruit curry was spectacular.

The yellow eye bean stew with torn bread was hearty and could have been a meal on its own. Some at our table found it a little salty though.

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Yellow eye bean stew with torn bread was a substantial dish.

Our pick from the Sides was smoked brisket. We’re still not sure why this dish is considered a side. It was a large portion and our companions pronounced it thoroughly delicious.  We got a second order.

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The brisket could be the centerpiece of any Sunday supper.

On our visit, Limited Availability choices included trouty brioche, fish head under a brick, a dry aged rib eye and foie gras. Limited Availability means just that, so if you see something you like, order it. It may not be on the menu the next time around. We said, “yes” to the trouty brioche with its terrific textures, colors and tastes. It was a thick slice of brioche with roe and pickled green peach—superb.

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Trouty Brioche featured creamy cheese nestled under a bed of crunchy roe on a tender slice of brioche.

Though we all were very satisfied with our dinner, we couldn’t resist dessert. The brownie with ice cream was perfect for sharing and a sweet ending to a sensational meal.

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We always try to save room for dessert. A good idea at Al’s Place.

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Dine al fresco at one of the street side tables.

Al’s Place also has a few outdoor tables on the side of the restaurant. Perhaps we’ll try one of those on our next visit– and there will definitely be a next visit! (Update– we have returned to Al’s Place several times and have always been delighted with the food, service, wine– the entire experience!)

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Lord Stanley

If you go to Lord Stanley, and you should, consider sharing all of the dishes you want to try, especially if there are only two of you. You’ll have the opportunity to try more of the delicious dishes on offer that way.

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Lord Stanley has tables upstairs and down. The room is casual and lively.

We shared starters—salt cod beignets and onion petals in sherry vinegar and then had the heirloom tomatoes—all deliciously good and clever rifts on what only sound like simple dishes.

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Onion petals in sherry vinegar topped with edible flowers was our first dish.

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The salt cod beignets were tasty with a dollop of house- made tartar sauce.

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A look inside the beignets.

Each dish had something special and unexpected—all in a very tasty and good way. The heirloom tomatoes were done with cardamom and gazpacho, for example.

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Perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes in a light, bright gazpacho.

We both had the incredible halibut for our entrees which was served with butter beans, roasted dashi, and samphire, whose crunchy texture reminded us of ice plant. It was all delicious, prepared perfectly, and easily big enough to share. We realized we could have had a meat dish as well, had we chosen just one order of halibut. The short rib at the next table looked amazing—and we were assured that it was. Next time!

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The halibut was succulent and rich.

Lord Stanley has a well-priced and interesting wine list. Our server was very knowledgeable and made several excellent suggestions for wine pairings.

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Lord Stanley’s interesting wine list has a number of organic/ biologic wines on offer.

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This light Loire Valley red was organically cultivated and manually harvested. It was a fine complement to our meal.

Though we’d had plenty to eat, we splurged and had the dark chocolate pudding with black sesame and toasted rice for dessert. The “pudding” was a delightfully different assemblage of tastes and textures from the dark chocolate crumbles to the crispy toffee on top.

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The dark chocolate pudding was a winner in both taste and texture.

img_4092Don’t be put off by Kin Khao’s simple surroundings. Located in the Parc 55 Hotel in what looks a lot like a coffee shop—this place is really good. They have extraordinary Thai food, attentive, knowledgeable service and a solid wine list with interesting choices that complement the cuisine nicely.

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Spare surroundings belie the rich, tantalizing Thai food on offer.

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The brief wine list perfectly complements the complex flavors of the food.

Entrees are pretty large but the appetizers are so good, it’s hard not to start with one or two. The Som Tum Papaya Salad is complex, flavorful and super hot—maybe the spiciest item on the small menu, but one bite leads to another and after a few, you’ll enjoy the heat.

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If you like it spicy, don’t miss this papaya salad.

The Pretty Hot Wings are just that, and pretty tasty, too. They hold their own against Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok wings in our estimation.

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Tangy, spicy and just right, these wings hold their own against more well- known competitors.

The Pinto Market Lunch with green curry, rabbit meatballs, pork riblets, salad and rice was more than satisfying and a veritable smorgasbord of taste treats.

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The Pinto Market Lunch is a hearty, satisfying meal full of flavor.

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A light chicken broth and a additional house- made curry sauce come on the side.

We also had a very hearty and savory noodle dish called Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew.  Tender braised pork cheeks with rice noodles, Ngiew flowers, cherry tomatoes, pickled mustard greens in a hearty pork broth made a delicious dish. Curries are prepared in- house from scratch each day.

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Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew was a sensational dish with complex flavors.

For a smaller appetite or on a hot day, try the chicken fat rice with ginger poached chicken, served with a restorative cup of chicken broth—light and delicious.

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The Pad Kee Mao with drunken egg noodles, ground pork, chilis basil and onions was outstanding. It’s also available as a vegetarian dish made with tofu.

Kin Khao has numerous vegetarian and gluten free items on their menu. Some items can easily be made vegetarian by substituting tofu.

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Kin Khao’s dining room between meals.

We’ve enjoyed several lunches and dinner at Kin Khao and have been delighted each time. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner.

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State Bird Provisions

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State Bird Provisions is still a tough table to get but well worth it.

Our unreserved and enthusiastic recommendation of State Bird Provision still stands. We had another terrific evening enjoying lots and lots of small, shared, interesting dishes at this popular Michelin one-star restaurant.

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Perfect heirloom tomatoes with crunchy quinoa and tahini chili oil. Piquant and refreshing.

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Sashimi grade fish and careful spicing makes SBP’s take on poke outstanding.

If you can score a table here do it, even if you have to get up at midnight, 60 days in advance to book, which is exactly what we do. If that doesn’t work out, take heart, they do take a limited number of walk-ins at 5:30 p.m., every night.

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A whole grain pancake topped with fiscalini cheddar and heirloom tomato is a two bite treat.

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State Bird’s extensive wine list has something for every palate. Try one of their wine flights.

The San Francisco Bay Area now has 49 Michelin star-rated restaurants from Los Gatos to the Napa Valley. What are you waiting for? Let’s go eat!  Find new favorites?  Please share them with us.

Three Scoops: Gelato in Florence

After a long day of touring, or in the middle of a long day of touring, or just because you’re in Italy, in the beautiful city of Florence, you’ll want gelato. Even if it’s wintertime. Avoid the places with the big puffy gelato displays and colors not often seen in nature. Look for signs that say gelateria artigianale, naturale, or biologico.  Go for gelaterias that keep the ice cream in stainless containers—covered stainless containers are even better.

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Covered stainless steel containers keep gelato fresh and flavorful. Daily flavors will be listed on signs along with prices.

All the available flavors will be written on a sign and you already know what fragola (aka strawberry) looks like. We love that you can choose two or more flavors even for small cones or cups, so experiment with any flavor combination you fancy. Go wild! If someone behind the counter asks, “Panna?” Just say “Si” and your cono will be topped with delicious fresh whipped cream, often at no extra charge. Feel free to indulge.

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To make your gelato even more satisfying, say yes to panna montata– fresh whipped cream often offered gratis– free!

In Florence, some say Perche No! www.percheno.firenze.it can’t be beat. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in the city, serving it forth since 1939. It is good, really good, so if you’re in the city center you should definitely stop in for a cone.

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Many of the best gelaterias have lines, but they go quickly. It is worth waiting at places like La Carraia.

Often touted as the best in town, La Carraia www.lacarraiagroup.eu , with two shops in Florence, is branching out and opening a store in Rome, too. We like their gelateria on the Altro Arno just over the bridge of the same name. This is a line worth standing on– and there is always a line. They also have scrumptious looking cakes and other tempting confections but we single-mindedly stick to the gelato.

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You can choose at least two flavors even on small cones.

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It’s hard not to be happy with a cone in your hand.

Our little apartment’s location by the Duomo caused us to walk by Edoardo daily. www.edoardobio.it We don’t resist temptation often or easily so had ample opportunity to sample their delicious gelato. Just grab a number by the door and peruse the list of daily flavors while you inhale the intoxicating aroma of their handmade cones. Don’t worry–the line goes quickly.

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Grab a number and enjoy the heady aroma of fresh baked cones while you wait at Edoardo.

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This is what delicious looks like. Chocolate with chili (cioccolato con peperoncino) and cinnamon (cannella) are two of my favorite flavors.

Grom www.grom.it was the first of the “all natural” gelato we enjoyed many years ago and it’s still delicious. The company began in Torino and now you’ll find them in cities across Italy, including Florence, and around the world from New York to Jakarta. They even have an outpost in Los Angeles now.

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Grom is in cities throughout Italy and worldwide.

Gelato preferences are personal, of course, so go explore. Find your favorites and please share your discoveries with us.