travel

How to Have a Wellness Weekend in the Black Forest

fall foliage surrounds a pond with ducks

The charming German town of Badenweiler in the foothills of the Black Forest has been drawing wellness seekers for millennia. They come for the healing, mineral-rich waters to relax and find relief for everything from stress to rheumatism. A tradition since the Romans were here, we devoted our weekend in Badenweiler to bathing, both ancient and modern.

inside ancient Roman ruins of a bathing complex — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

signage about the romans who built these baths — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

In addition to lovely, wooded scenery, hiking trails, and the thermal waters that flow from under the Black Forest, Badenweiler boasts some of the most expansive and best-preserved Roman baths north of the Alps. We were excited to visit them. We followed a small group of people down a leafy walkway into a public park. There we found the glass pavilion that protects this archeological wonder. We paid 3 euro each to pass through the turnstile and travel back in time, way back.

Roman Rituals

The extraordinary 2,000-year-old ruins include the caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Our guide, Dominick, explained the hot, tepid, and cold baths were visited in that order. Cold plunges, popular today, are nothing new. Thousands of years ago the ancient Romans were well-versed in the therapeutic benefits of thermal waters of varying temperatures.

Community baths played an important role in Roman life. They were used not just to bathe, but also to socialize and keep up on politics and local news. Their baths also often included steam rooms and relaxing areas for this reason.

Ruins of a Roman bath complex — *The extensive bathing complex is one of the best preserved n*orth of the Alps.

Roman sculpture, grooming aids, and even a replica of typical Roman wooden bathing shoes are among the exhibits inside the pavilion. These platform sandals protected bathers’ feet from the hot floors inside the caldarium. Dominick was brimming with historical and entertaining facts about the Romans who settled in this part of Germany and built this elaborate bathing complex.

ancient pipes used in the bathing complex — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Replica of Roman bathing shoes — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Roman soldiers were often paid in land and encouraged to settle permanently in the areas they had been sent to conquer. This was the case in Badenweiler. Settler soldiers built these baths to enjoy the same rituals and amenities they would have enjoyed at home. Badenweiler’s healing thermal waters likely made these even more appealing.

Take the Tour

man in front of informational panels — *Our guide helped bring the ancient ruins to life. He gave the tour and answered questions in German and English.*

Visitors walk through and over the remarkable ruins on accessible walkways and have a bird’s eye view of all areas of the baths. Our guide explained the significance of each area in both German and English. Everyone in our small group spoke one or the other language. After a very informative hour-long walk through the Roman complex, Dominick led us out into the park surrounding the baths.

walkway over ancient ruins in the glass pavilion — *Walkways over and through the ruins make the complex accessible to all.*

Using our mobile phones to light the way we ducked through a small doorway, one by one. Dark and dank, we had entered a recreated ancient Roman drainage channel which had originally served the baths in this very spot. It was constructed in 1998. What a relief it was to return to sunlight after a short time inside the channel.

people exiting a tunnel — *The reconstructed subterranean drainage channel* *shows what masters of architecture the Romans were.*

It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but self-guided visits do not include the drainage channel, well worth seeing, or the wonderful stories Dominick shared that sparked our imagination and brought the distant past to life.

Modern Baths

After exiting the drainage tunnel, we looked up and saw people relaxing on chaise lounges on a broad terrace overlooking the park. They were enjoying the popular Cassiopeia Therme. Next door to the ancient Roman ruins, the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths draw visitors and locals alike to the healing waters within. The modern baths are housed in an impressive classical-style building.

Classical -style building with signage for Cassiopeia Therme — *The Cassiopeia Therme is a popular attraction in Badenweiler and can get crowded on weekends and holidays.*

Guests at these public baths enjoy the same thermal waters the Romans did, in a series of pools of varying temperatures and sizes indoors and out. Temperatures range from 30 to 36 degrees Celsius and are seasonally adjusted. Families, couples young and old, and this pair of American wanderers settled in for a relaxing afternoon in the healing waters.

Don’t Forget Your Towel

people waiting inside a large rotunda building — *People waited patiently to check in for an afternoon at the Cassiopeia Thermal Ba*ths.

This was our first experience in a public bath house. As we queued for entry, we realized we had already made a mistake not bringing towels from our hotel. Everyone else, we noticed, came equipped for the day with shower shoes, robes and towels. We had brought flip flops and swimsuits, but had to rent towels. We must not have been the only ones unprepared. Bathrobes, shower towels and sauna towels were available to rent at registration.

long hallway inside the Cassiopeia Therme — *A long hallway led to the gender-specific locker rooms. The rest of the facility is co-ed.*

Off to the changing rooms we went, locker keys in hand. The changing rooms had large lockers, restrooms, and showers. The faint sulfurous aroma of thermal waters wafted through the humid air as we approached the bathing areas.

No Lazy River

Though the day was overcast and a little cool, we headed to the large heated outdoor pool. People of all ages were clearly enjoying themselves. We saw couples floating hand-in-hand, kids leaping from their parents’ arms, and teenagers racing one another around the pool.

overview of large outdoor pool — *The giant whirlpool was a lot of fun and one of our favorite activities. Photo courtesy of Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH.*

There was a vast, oversized whirlpool at one end of the outdoor pool complex. We jumped in and let the water carry us, trying not to bump the other bathers as we circled, laughing as we moved through the swirling current. This was no lazy-river experience. We quickly figured out we would need an exit strategy to escape the strong current, but it was so much fun, we stayed in the fast-moving water for about a half an hour.

Take a Dip

There were many other pools to sample, so we held hands and made for one of the handles on the side of the pool. It took a few attempts, but we finally grabbed hold and swam out. After a dip at the other end of the huge outdoor pool, we headed indoors. There were a series of smaller pools inside on the ground level. Each had different depths and temperatures that were clearly posted. The smaller and shallower pools were popular (and populated) with young children. We avoided those. After exploring the options, we made a circuit from hottest to coolest pool and repeated it several times.

There were chairs and lounges around all the pools, indoors and out. Just like at home, people had “reserved” their chairs with towels and personal property. We took a short break on the comfortable lounges and enjoyed the view of the park outside.

Sauna Time

signage for thermal baths — *Signs outside the Cassiopeia thermal baths let guests know what to expect inside, including a wellness oasis.*

After enjoying almost all the pools on the ground level, we walked past the busy café and headed upstairs to the sauna area. We had become aufguss enthusiasts during our recent stay at the Adler Balance in Italy’s Dolomites and were looking forward to experiencing Cassiopeia’s saunas.

As we climbed the stairs, we noticed we were heading for an adults-only zone as well as a “textile free” area. This was a relatively new term to us and means simply, no swimsuits (or any other garments) allowed. The policy was evident in the large co-ed pool adjacent to the saunas, where naked bathers swam and floated, blissfully unencumbered by swimwear or self-consciousness.

Textile Free Zone

Another patron, perhaps sensing my foreignness, or hesitation, tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to the sign above the sauna, in German and English, when I failed to disrobe quickly enough. She may have thought I planned to enter the sauna in a swimsuit, which I knew was just not done.

signs inside the baths indicate different services — *These signs advertise the thermal baths and Roman-Irish bath*, *also in the textile free zone.*

Leaving our inhibitions and our swimsuits at the sauna door, we stepped out of our pool shoes and into the least hot (coolest would be a misnomer) of the units first. Cassiopeia has a range of saunas from 55 to 90 degrees Celsius. They include aroma, herbal, Finnish, crystal and infusion saunas.

There is also a Roman-Irish bath in the textile-free zone. That would have been a new experience for us but it was not available during our visit. There was plenty to keep us busy without it.

As we had learned at the Adler, a cold plunge or shower is a must after a sauna, especially if you are hopping back into another, even hotter one, as we were. Sauna, shower, repeat, was our plan. We both decided we enjoyed the hotter saunas and spent most of our time there. Interestingly, the saunas had little windows with a view of the pool. After several times in and out, we checked the posted schedule to see if aufguss was available.

The Aufguss Experience

Aufguss is a super-heated sauna experience usually enhanced by aromatherapy and music. It is led by an athletic (in my experience) and specially trained aufguss meister. Using towels and large handheld fans, the aufguss meister directs the hot air around the chamber and melts aroma-containing ice balls emitting scents ranging from relaxing pine forest to uplifting citrus into the sauna. Sadly, we had already missed the aufguss sessions scheduled for the day.

Glowing from our swim and sauna, and fully relaxed, we headed back to the locker room to shower and bid farewell to the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths. Our ancient and modern bathing experiences in Badenweiler were memorable. We’d return to Cassiopeia Therme in a heartbeat, this time with our own towels and robes.

If You Go

Roman Baths

glass pavilion over roman ruins in a park setting — *Take the guided tour to fully appreciate these extraordinary 2,000 year-old Roman baths.*

Tours of the ancient bathing complex are offered Sunday mornings at 11 throughout the year, with an additional one on Tuesdays at 4 pm during summer months. It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but we felt ours added a great deal to our visit.

There is signage, but in German only. Our guide was very helpful and we also used Google Translate to decipher many of the signs. The tour inside the pavilion is accessible to all, but the underground channel is not. Tour group size is limited. Book in advance.

Modern Baths

sign with historical information about the baths — *SIgnage shows how the Cassiopeia Therme has been modernized over its long history.*

Public baths are very popular in the Black Forest and Sunday is a busy day for them, as we learned first-hand. Guests of all ages from toddlers to octogenarians enjoy their time there. Bring your swimsuit, shower shoes, a robe, and a towel. Leave jewelry and valuables in your hotel’s safe. You will need a credit card or other payment method for your day pass, any food or beverages, and towel rental if you forget your own.

Be prepared to shed your swimwear and inhibitions at the sauna door and anywhere you see signs indicating “textile free” areas.

If you plan to shower in the locker rooms, bring your own grooming products.

The Cassiopeia Baths have a café for light meals and beverages. There is a lovely terrace overlooking the grounds and the Roman baths you can relax on.

We were guests of the Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH for the Roman Baths tour and visit to Casseopeia Therme.

Sleeping and Eating

Schwartzmatt Hotel

large yellow hotel building — *The Hotel Schwarzmatt made a great base for exploring the Black Forest and Badenweiler.*

We stayed in Badenweiler at the very comfortable Hotel Schwartzmatt, a member of the luxury Relais & Chateau group. We opted for half-board as our stay was in low season and many restaurants in town were not open. The hotel restaurant, which served a varied and delicious menu focusing on local dishes, was open only to hotel guests in late autumn. There were a few coffee shops and boutiques open in town, but it was quiet. Summer is the busy season here.

Wellness Oasis

The Hotel Schwarzmatt has a “wellness oasis” featuring a steam bath, Finnish and Bio saunas, an indoor pool, a sun pavilion and terrace. The spa offers massages and other treatments and there is a fitness room. These facilities are only available to hotel guests. We didn’t have time for any treatments but enjoyed the steam room, saunas and pool.

Written and photographed (I could not take photos in the baths for obvious reasons) by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Pack Light: Five Weeks with a Carry-On

Packing light for any trip, from a weekend in wine country, a month or more in Europe, or something in between, has become second nature for me because as a travel journalist, I’m away nearly half the year. Friends are always asking for packing tips so I’ve decided to share mine here with you. Like anything, the more you do something the better you become at it.

*Here’s how NOT to pack! What do they have in those big bags? And why?*

I just got back from five weeks in Europe with only a carry-on roller bag and one personal item. If I can do it, so can you. Here’s how to to get organized and travel lightly on your next adventure.

*These are my bags for a five-week trip to Europe.*

Get Organized

Waiting until the last minute to pack means tossing stuff I don’t need into my bag and not bringing the things I do. Make a list or download one from one of the many online sites that offer them free. Do a preliminary pack about a week before you’re leaving and finalize right before you go. This goes for your suitcase (you won’t be checking it) and your one allowable personal item. Mine is a tote that carries a small purse, laptop and essentials like travel documents and medications. Like jewelry and other valuables, these are things you should never, ever check.

*Light layers took me comfortably from hiking in the Dolomites…*

Check the Weather

Unless you’re traveling in mid-winter, you’ll want to pack light layers. We stayed in a castle in Tuscany, went hiking in the Dolomites, wine tasting in Friuli, explored small cities in the Marche, spent time at the seaside in Abruzzo, and revisited the eternal city.

*…to the Adriatic seaside, and lots of places in between.*

The weather was very different in each of these places, but by taking layers, my five-week wardrobe fit nicely in my carry- on, thanks to packing cubes. I had the appropriate clothes for all the weather we encountered.

Take Half the Clothes and Twice the Money

That’s travel advice someone shared with me years ago and I still take it to heart. Chances are you’re going to be moving from one destination to another and seeing different people in all of those places. No one will know you’ve worn that outfit five times already. People everywhere dress much more casually than they used to. Please keep that in mind as you select your travel wardrobe.

Choose clothes you’re comfortable in. A trip abroad is not the time to discover your pants are too tight. If you’re like me, you may even add a few pounds on your travels so clothes that fit a little more loosely at the start of the trip is a good thing.

Leave Them Behind

I often bring a few things that are nearly ready for the donation bin, wear them a few last times and leave them behind. Now there’s more room for purchases in my bag.

*Neutrals are always appropriate. Use accessories to change your look.*

Choose Neutrals

Pick black, white, camel, gray or navy as your base to create a “capsule wardrobe,” which means everything goes with everything else. Use accessories for a pop of color (I love scarves) and to change up your look. Remember the 3:1 rule, pack three tops for every bottom. Lay out whatever you think you need and then put at least one third of it back in the closet. You don’t need it. Trust me.

What Are You Doing?

Consider the activities you have planned. Your wardrobe for hiking in the Italian Alps is going to look a lot different than a theater-going marathon in London. Obviously, you’ll want performance fabrics for athletic endeavors. Choose natural fabrics, think cotton and silk, that will keep you comfortable for everything else. Merino wool works for most of the year and linen can’t be beat for hot summer days. Separates will provide much more flexibility than dresses or jumpsuits, but I always bring a dress, just in case I am going to the theater after a hike in the mountains.

*Some trips include all kinds of activities and events. We went from mountain hikes in the Dolomites to concerts in Salzburg and Vienna!*

Nice trousers, a button down shirt and a sweater will be fine for a night at the theater for men, though many we saw at classical concerts last fall in Vienna and Salzburg were in suits.

*People dress much more casually than they used to, even on a Saturday night in Rome.*

The Shoe Dilemma

You do not need five pairs of shoes. Bring comfortable flats that can also go out to dinner, walking shoes or sneakers for daytime, and sandals or flip flops (good as slippers, too) if you’re headed to a sunny locale. Three pairs is plenty and be sure they’re comfortable. Blisters will ruin that romantic Parisian stroll you planned. If you’re hiking, or going into wet/snowy weather, that’s a different story.

Wear your heaviest shoes/boots on the plane. Never bring new shoes and leave those cute heels at home! Streets are cobbled or uneven in many destinations. Men can get by with sandals (in warm weather), walking shoes that are comfortable but dressy enough for evening out, and a good pair of sneakers.

*Check out their footwear. You’ll see flats and sneakers everywhere and for good reason, cobbled streets like these in Seville are more the rule than the exception.*

Outer Layers

If the weather is changeable, I pack a puffer jacket and a vest (Patagonia’s nanopuff is my go-to) and a lightweight, waterproof shell with a pair of gloves and a scarf tucked in the pocket. That combination sees me through all but the coldest conditions.

Laundry

Pack for no more than a week, no matter how long you’ll be traveling. Wash lighter things in the bathroom sink in your hotel. Bring inflatable hangers and a few plastic clothes pins (also good for keeping drapes closed) — and use hotel shampoo as laundry soap.

For heavier things like pants and shirts we use Google Maps to find a fluff- and -fold cleaner with drop- off service near our lodgings. We dropped our laundry off in Kalamata and learned it was the same cleaner the hotel used, but we paid the local’s price. They even delivered our clothes back to our hotel for us.

*If we can’t find a drop-off fluff and fold, we head to a laundromat.*

If you’re staying in an apartment with a washer, lucky you. Don’t expect to have a clothes drier in Europe though, you’ll likely have a clothesline or drying rack. That works, too.

Medication, Documents, Jewelry

Bring extra prescription medications in case your return is delayed, and these days it easily could be. We woke up to a text announcing our flight home later that day from Madrid was cancelled. Surprise!

Keep medication in its original container, or to save room, get pill pouches (tiny plastic bags available at pharmacies), peel off and apply the label from your Rx bottles and you’re set. Never pack medications in your luggage. Ask your doctor for paper copies of any prescriptions you take regularly in case you need to get more abroad.

*Keep passports and other documents, medications and any valuables with you at all times, not in your luggage.*

Leave jewelry at home. Unless you wear it every day, don’t bring it. You don’t want your bling bringing unwanted attention.

They Sell Toothpaste Overseas

*Hotels usually provide shampoo, bath gel, body lotion, soap, etc. The basics will be waiting for you. No need to pack them.*

Don’t bring every toiletry and beauty product you use at home. Stick to travel sizes of the few you must have and buy what you need when you arrive. Toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and other necessities are readily available in most places you’ll be going. Remember, those 3.4 ounce liquids must fit into a quart- sized bag. If you transit through London Heathrow you will have to go through security again, even if you are departing from the same terminal you flew into. British Airways’ “quart” bag seems a tad smaller to me and you must be able to zip the bag completely closed or risk having your products confiscated. Not sure if you can carry it on? Check TSA.

*Sunny skies can change in a heartbeat. Pack light layers and an umbrella and you’ll be prepared for almost anything!*

Must Haves

Take an umbrella and a swimsuit no matter where you’re going. If you unexpectedly find yourself at the seaside or it turns out your hotel has a pool, you don’t want to frantically shop for a swimsuit. That’s a daunting proposition at the best of times. A small, foldable umbrella is great for sun protection when you’re trekking through sunbaked ruins, as well as for the rain that’s bound to fall.

*We wouldn’t have wanted to miss a sunset swim at the Castello Delle Serre in Rapolano.*

Go Carry On

Don’t check your bag. In the old days I used to drag along a suitcase that was nearly as big as I am. I’m not a tall person, but you get the idea. After a certain British airline lost my luggage on the way to a Mediterranean cruise, I now check a bag only under duress. I like knowing my belongings are right above me in the overhead compartment, especially if I’m making connections.

*Don’t give airlines a chance to lose your bag or waste time waiting at the baggage carousel.*

Reasons Not to Check Bags

I’ve heard so many horror stories about lost luggage but this is one of the worst: A friend’s luggage was recovered at London Heathrow four months after she returned from what should have been a romantic anniversary trip. Everything was wet and ruined. Don’t let lost luggage ruin your trip before it even starts.

*Imagine dragging these bags around Rome?*

If your flight is cancelled or delayed, your chances of rebooking or going standby are much better if you haven’t checked luggage. When our flight home from Brussels was cancelled at the end of a busy Easter Week, we got the last seats on the next flight out because we had our bags with us.

*While these aren’t huge bags, she’s got two of them, and a duffel, and a purse. Take at least a third of what you think you’ll need out of your bag. You don’t need it. I promise.*

Use your coat as an extra carry on. Fill the pockets with small items (not liquids). Put a second jacket inside the first and put a vest or sweater in the sleeves. Make every pocket count!

If you travel with a portable medical device it does NOT count as your one allowable personal item. You can bring it aboard along with your roller bag plus your purse or backpack/tote bag. My husband has one and he takes advantage of any extra space in the device’s carry bag.

Stay Connected

Electronics need chargers and converters so be sure to pack enough for all your devices. You may also want to add an international calling/data plan to your mobile phone before you go. Use WhatsApp to stay in touch for free and use free WIFI when you can, though obviously not for sensitive information. You can also get a new SIM card at your destination(s) but be sure to let friends and family know your new phone number.

Someone recently asked me if they needed converters for their hair dryer and other styling tools. The answer is NO. You’re going to leave those things at home. Every hotel and apartment rental I’ve ever stayed in anywhere in the world has had a hair dryer.

*He’s heading to the gate with just the right amount of carry-on luggage*, *no matter how long the journey.*

Ready, Set, Pack!

Pack light. Leave valuables at home. Keep passports, medications and other hard -to -replace items with you, not in your luggage. Don’t check your bag unless you absolutely have to, and remember, if you forget something, 99 percent of the time there will be stores where you’re going. Ready, set, pack!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase there is no additional charge to you but I may earn a small commission. Thank you for your support!

Why Spring is a Great Time to Visit Amalfi

By mid-March, most of us in the Northern Hemisphere are tired of winter. Our thoughts turn to cloudless blue skies, tourmaline waters, and sun-dappled landscapes. Italy’s Amalfi Coast with its breathtaking views, pristine beaches, and lemons as big as your head, comes immediately to mind. Mild temperatures, a relaxed pace, and relative lack of crowds make Spring the perfect time to travel to what is considered a dream destination by many. Here’s what I discovered on my Springtime trip to Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello.

Beat the Crowds

Amalfi's seaside esplanade with tables and closed umbrella under a blue sky — *Visit Amalfi before Easter and enjoy this dream destination without the crowds.*

Easter marks the beginning of the season in Amalfi and elsewhere in Campania. We decided to visit right before the holiday, hoping to beat the crowds as we had the previous week in the seaside village of Castellabate di Santa Maria. About two hours drive south of Amalfi on the Cilento Coast, there were few tourists and many shops and restaurants remained closed during our stay. Our hotel, the Palazzo Belmonte, was in its “soft opening” period and the restaurant, pool, and beach club hadn’t opened yet but we had great fun exploring this less discovered area. After a five-night stay, Amalfi beckoned so we packed up the rental car and headed north.

sitting room with sunset view outside the window — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

large bedroom with floral printed rug, a settee with pink pillows and a king bed with red printed coverlet — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

We had barely turned on to the coastal road that winds its way across the Sorrento Peninsula, when we came nose-to-nose with an enormous city bus. I was terrified. I couldn’t even take a photo as my husband slowly backed up the narrow roadway into a spot wide enough to let the bus pass. This, I thought, is why people hire professional drivers to get around the Amalfi Coast. It was not the last time I would have this realization.

*Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

bus takes both lanes of the road around a corner — *Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

We soldiered on towards Amalfi, holding our collective breath as we inched by buses and other cars on narrow, hairpin turns. With a sigh of relief, we arrived at DieciSedici.

An Albergo Diffuso

After checking in at the reception desk, we were directed to the building next door. Though billed as a boutique hotel, DieciSedici was more of an albergo diffuso. We had unwittingly booked a room in a residential building, not a proper hotel. This kind of lodging, where “hotel” rooms can be in different buildings, or diffused, is not uncommon in Italy and is fine if you don’t need 24/7 on-site assistance.

old pink stucco residential building with a couple walking twoards it — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

hotel room with bed, desk and two windows — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

Beware the Stairs

When the receptionist mentioned there were stairs and no lift, we asked for help with the bags. Even though we travel with only carry-on bags, we were glad we did. Leo assisted us up the 64 stone steps leading to our room. As we climbed, we learned that breakfast, included with the stay, was served at the Bistro F. Illi Pansa where he worked. It was about a 10-minute walk away in the historic center.

Steep stone steps inside a residential building — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

man and donkeys walking down the street in Amalfi — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

While we settled in, the receptionist had someone from a nearby garage come and spirit our rental car away. She instructed us to call 45 minutes before we needed the car again, but discouraged us from driving in the area at all.

Our room was large, clean, and comfortable. It had a spacious bathroom with a heated towel rack, a small refrigerator, and an electric tea kettle. We could even see a sliver of the sea from our Juliette balcony. After catching our breath, we headed back down the steep steps to explore Amalfi.

The Heart of Amalfi

people gathered by an ancient fountain having a drink and filling waer bottles — *The beautiful Baroque Fountain of St. Andrew, across from Amalfi’s cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo, is a popular spot to get a drink or fill a water bottle.*

We walked along the sparkling sea front, past many restaurants not yet open for the season, and a few busily preparing for the evening’s guests. There were some pedestrians and bicyclists on the promenade but nothing like I’d seen in summertime photos.

*Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

cafe with white table clothes and women sitting at a table — *Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

After passing the transportation hub where boats to Capri and Positano, and buses to Ravello, Sorrento and other points on the peninsula arrive and depart, we entered a pedestrian tunnel. Minutes later we found ourselves on the Piazza del Duomo in the heart of Amalfi’s historic old town staring in awe at the spectacular cathedral that is the city’s centerpiece.

Amalfi’s Duomo

Cathedral of St. Andrew's Byzantine facade with golden mosaics — *The Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle’s facade is spectacular day or night.*

Built between the 9^thand 12^th centuries, the Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle is a masterwork in golden mosaics that gleam in the Mediterranean sunshine. We watched as the elegant façade with its bronze Byzantine doors drew wedding couples and their photographers, and Instagrammers galore. The restaurant where we would enjoy breakfast each morning was directly across from the cathedral, providing us with endless people-watching opportunities with our morning cappuccino.

view of the cathedral in Amalfi with people sitting and standing on the steps — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

people seated at tables in a cafe — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

After queuing for a much-needed gelato at Cioccolato Andrea Pansa, we bought tickets to visit the cathedral. It features Gothic, Romanesque, Byzantine and Arab-Norman architectural styles and is one of the most popular sites in Amalfi. Architect Enrico Alvino designed the ornately decorated facade after an 1861 collapse damaged the front and atrium of the church.

*The opulent interior of Amalfi’s duomo, dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle.*

fresco with angels and dove — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Byzantine painting of the Holy family — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Our 3 Euro visit included the Cathedral and adjoining Basilica of the Crucifix and its crypt. St. Andrews’ relics are there. There is also a small Diocesan museum with frescoes, sculpture and religious art inside the Basilica. Outside, we toured the peaceful Cloister of Paradise, once a burial ground for nobility.

Amalfi’s Famous Fruit

On our walk around town, we saw plenty of evidence of Amalfi’s number one citrus crop. Lemons, limoncello, lemon soap, lemon candles, lemon ice, lemon-embellished clothing, lemon everything was for sale everywhere. At dinner at Pizzeria Donna Stella, we had a table on the upstairs terrace. Lemons were growing overhead.

People in front of the Bottega di Limone, a shop selling lemon-based products and lemon-embellished clothes. — *Lemon everything is sold* *in towns across the Sorrento Peninsula*. Upstairs is one of my favorite restaurants, Da Gemma.

man at a table with lemon trees growing in restaurant — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

A display of various lemon-themed products and souvenirs, including bottles of limoncello, candies, and lemon-infused items, all neatly arranged in wooden crates with price tags. — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

Mistakes Were Made or How Not to Get to Pompeii

On our first full day in Amalfi, we planned to visit Pompeii. Earlier in the trip, we spent five days in Naples. From there, we took day trips by train to explore the nearby ruins in Herculaneum and spectacular palace and gardens at Reggia Caserta. We could have easily taken the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii from Naples, but thought it would be better to drive from Amalfi. It was not.

frescoes on the walls of an ancient villa in Pompeii — *We were richly rewarded with the chance to see ancient frescoes in Pompeii’s intact villas, though the drive there was harrowing.*

No one was available to bring us our car, so we made our way up the steep streets to the garage, passing sure-footed donkeys on the way. Back in our car, we drove down the narrow main street, ever so slowly, past startled shoppers, stand after stand of lemon-themed merchandise, cafes, and coffee shops until we reached the road out of town.

crowd of people waiting at Pompeii — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

teenagers with their backs to viewer wearing Maradona jerseys — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

For what seemed like an eternity, we drove up harrowing, hairpin turns around the mountain and down the other side. I was exhausted by the time we reached Pompeii, and I wasn’t even behind the wheel. It was well worth the nerve-wracking journey to explore the extensive and fascinating archeological site and we spent the entire day there. I’ll share about that experience in another article, but we should have taken the train from Naples. Or hired a driver in Amalfi.

Ravello

bronze statue of Bacchus with child holding grapes on his shoulders — *Villa Cimbrone’s gardens, my main reason for coming to Ravello, are filled with sculpture, fountains and spectacular views.*

I was not ready to get back in the car after our Pompeii outing, but had always wanted to visit the gardens at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Buses runs every half hour from Amalfi and cost 1.50 Euro each way, cash only. The decision was an easy one.

sign saying bus ticket here cash only — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

two men on a motorscooter in front of two buses that say Amalfi on them — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

Up, up, up we went on those now familiar hairpin turns, the ride accompanied by the sounds of squealing bus tires and a blaring horn warning other drivers that we were coming. Buses takes up both lanes of the narrow road so alerting others is a matter of safety.

About a half an hour later, we arrived in Ravello. We hiked through the ancient town and climbed the winding 100 steps to the celebrated Villa Cimbrone. The Villa dates to the 12^th century and has long attracted literary luminaries including members of the Bloomsbury Group like Virginia Woolf and E.M.Forster, celebrities, and bold face names such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Tennessee Williams and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

formal gardens with umbrella trees and stone wall — *Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

*Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

Someday I’d love to stay at the five- star hotel, but I’d set my sights on the botanical gardens for this visit. For 10 Euro, visitors can explore the property’s expansive English-Italo style gardens, redesigned in the early 20^th century by Lord Grimthorpe (Ernest William Beckett) with advice from celebrated English garden designer Vita Sackville-West. In March, the gardens were not in full bloom, but it was still a wonderful experience to stroll the sprawling grounds, admire the superb sculpture, and enjoy sensational views from the Terrace of Infinity high above the sea.

terrace overlooking the sea with marble statues — *Standing on the Terrace of Infinity, you’ll quickly understand how it got its name.*

There were few other visitors in Villa Cimbrone’s gardens that sunny March day, but the restaurants and cafes we passed on our way back to Ravello’s historic city center were buzzing.

The Villa Rufolo and the Ravello Festival

a view from above of gardens at Villa Rufolo — *A view of Villa Rufolo’s gardens, home to the Ravello Festival*.

Another highlight of our day in Ravello was a visit to the Villa Rufolo. It’s right off the Piazza Vescavado, the main square, and home to the acclaimed Ravello Festival that takes place every summer. The festival features world-renowned symphony orchestras, soloists, and ensembles, and will celebrate its 74^th season in 2026. The festival runs from July 4 to September 5 and is the reason Ravello refers to itself as the “City of Music”.

gardens with large palm tree and the sea in the distance — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

inside view of a large pink room with tile floors and a glass chandelier — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

Our self-guided tour included the upper rooms, Knight’s Hall, chapel, theater, cloisters, magnificent gardens and belvedere overlooking the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. We could only imagine what a memorable experience it would be to attend a performance on these spectacular grounds with the gardens and sea as a backdrop.

At the bus stop, we were surprised by the size of the crowd that had gathered. Apparently, it had been an hour or more since the last bus had appeared. One finally came 30 minutes later. Even with the wait, the crowded bus was better than driving.

Amalfi’s Maritime Museum

overview of Maritime Museum with vaulted arches and displays in glass cases — *The Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum, located in Amalfi’s Arsenal, holds 1,000 years of nautical, scientific, and cultural history.*

There’s more to see in Amalfi than the Cathedral and shops. Amalfi was once one of the most important maritime centers and trading hubs on the Mediterranean. Nearly 1,000 years of the city’s nautical, scientific, and cultural history are stored in the Arsenal, home to the Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum.

replica of blue ship with golden horse — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

small stone statue of a young man siting with hand on his head — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

The museum showcases the evolution of nautical navigation equipment including the compass. The compass is a Chinese invention but Amalfitano Flavio Gioia was once credited with its creation. It was later acknowledged to have been brought to Amalfi by sailors who had traveled to China.

One of the antique yellow compasses on display — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

night view of fountain and bronze statue of a man — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

The museum’s collections include Roman and medieval treasures, coins, and manuscripts like the Tabula de Amalpha. This important document of maritime law, written in Latin, was used until the 16^th century. Maritime equipment, art, religious artifacts, and period costumes are also on exhibit. Additional exhibitions are on display in the Salone Morelli in the Town Hall.

Amalfi also has a Paper Museum, the Museo della Carta. I would have loved to visit but ran out of time.

Positano

After too much touring and driving, we hopped on a boat for the less than 30- minute ride to Positano. With the sun shining and wind in our hair, we were finally beginning to relax and enjoy the Amalfi Coast.

*There were plenty of seats on the boat to and from Positano, not likely the case once tourist season begins.*

Positano was exactly as I imagined; soaring cliffs dotted with citrus and olive groves, vineyards, and homes perched precariously high above the sea. Our plan was to have a wander, visit a church, see the shops, and have lunch by the beach. That seemed be the itinerary for most visitors.

men moving large palm trees by the beach — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

people sitting in chairs on the beach in Positano — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

Just like in Amalfi, not everything in Positano was open yet, but would be soon. Workers were very busy preparing for the Easter weekend ahead, which officially kicks off the busy season. Shops and restaurants that had been closed all winter were being swept and windows washed. From our seaside table at Chez Black, we watched as workers erected umbrellas and set up chairs on the beach. They were even busily planting palm trees in the sand.

people eating in a cafe with striped awning that says Chez Black — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

exterior of church with small labyrinth in front of it — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

As we wandered the unexpectedly crowded streets, we saw racks of summer clothes outside in the sunshine, surrounded by shoppers. I have never seen so many lemon-embellished clothes, hats, shoes, and home décor as I did that one afternoon in Positano. After eating and drinking, shopping is a very popular pastime in Positano.

Before leaving Positano, we stopped at the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. We walked the small labyrinth outside the church and took some time in the church’s serene interior to reflect on our good fortune.

On the boat back to Amalfi, I spied a gentleman sporting a straw hat with lemon trimmed band, lemon-embroidered shirt, shorts, and espadrilles. His companion was similarly attired. He told me he was from Milwaukee and on the trip of a lifetime. He certainly had the souvenirs to show for it.

If You Go:

*The sun sets on the Tree of Life on Amalfi’s blissfully quiet esplanade before the “season” begins.*

Don’t wait for summer to travel when the number of tourists and temperatures soar.

Consider hiring a driver or using buses and boats to get around the Amalfi Coast. Driving is treacherous and not for the faint of heart. Boats and buses leave from the harbor (Porto di Amalfi) on a regular schedule or you can hire a private boat. Taxis are also readily available.

Tourism is the main industry in Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and most towns on the Sorrento Peninsula. Be prepared to pay accordingly and extravagantly for almost everything.

If you struggle with mobility issues, be aware that streets are narrow, often cobbled, and hilly. There are stairs nearly everywhere you go, inside and outside.

Practicalities: Where to Eat, Where to Stay in Amalfi

We enjoyed our daily gelato stop at Ciocolatta Andrea Pansa, breakfast at Bistro F. Illi Pansa (included with our room rate), and dinners at Da Gemma, Ristorante L’Abside, and Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi. Antica Trattoria Barracca also came highly recommended and it was good, but we liked the others more.

We chose Amalfi as our base to explore the Sorrento Peninsula with the exception of two nights in Sorrento. We stayed at the Hilton Sorrento Palace before returning to Naples for a flight to Sicily. If you don’t mind climbing many steep stairs and don’t need a front desk with 24-hour assistance, DieciSedici is well-located. There are hotels at varying price points and levels of service, including some luxury properties like La Sirenuse, Il San Pietro di Positano, and Hotel Eden Roc all in Positano, plus Air BnBs, to choose from throughout the peninsula. Make your reservations far in advance, no matter when you plan to visit this popular destination.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

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Maui Magic: A Blowhole, Beach Hike and Dragon’s Teeth

After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales and finally, it was the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!

*What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?*

Nakalele

The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.

*The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!*

Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.

*Park on the shoulder.* *There’s no official parking area here.*

*There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.*

If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.

*The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery*.

*We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!*

Beware the Blowhole

Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.

*These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.*

You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.

*Stay safe and stay clear of the blowhole even when it isn’t active.*

Safety First!

This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.

The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.

*You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.*

We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.

Beachtime

We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.

*Enjoy the beautiful coastline as you make your way down Maui’s winding roads.*

At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.

*Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.*

D.T. Fleming Beach

D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!

*Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.*

The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.

*Bring your own chairs and picnic lunch. Services can be limited on many beaches.*

We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.

*The surf was rough and the lifeguards were busy!*

After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.

*This monument marks* *an ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.*

Take a Hike

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.

*The going got rough, and slippery, the further out on the point we ventured.*

*The scenery was breathtaking from Makaluapuna Point.*

Dragon’s Teeth

The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!

*Take time to walk the labyrinth and reflect.*

There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.

The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?

Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!

Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

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Portugal’s Mysterious Megaliths and Where to Find Them

*Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arqueologia has numerous treasures including megaliths.*

We saw our first megalith in Lisbon’s Museum of Archeology and we were intrigued. What were these stones with their strange markings? Where could we see more of them? It turns out the largest collection of megaliths on the Iberian peninsula is located less than two hours from Lisbon in the Alentejo region not far from Evora, the area’s capital city.

*Drive in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees to reach Almendres Cromlech.*

There are numerous places to see megaliths in Portugal, many in the Alentejo. Cromeleque dos Almendres, or Almendres Cromlech, is the largest and most prominent site. Older than Stonehenge, Cromeleque dos Almendres is located about seven kilometers off the main road, the N114, driving towards Evora from Lisbon. SInce we had planned to visit Evora after Lisbon we decided to include a stop to see these archaeological wonders.

*The megaliths are in a large clearing, surrounded by cork oak trees.*

Head in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees. The dirt road is clearly marked with signs pointing you in the direction of Cromeleque dos Almendres and Menhir dos Almendres. You will either need to drive or take a taxi to get here. There is no public transportation available.

There were no services or visitors center on our first visit to see the menhirs, but now there is. The Centro Interpretativo dos Alemendres near the tiny town of Guadalupe is a welcome addition to the area. In addition to outdoor panels with educational information in Portuguese and English, the Center has a helpful staff, restrooms, a small cafe and a gift shop. You can get a map showing the location of other megaliths here, as well as additional information about the area.

*Visitors can wander freely around the 95 remaining megaliths, or menhirs, at Almendres Cromlech.*

About 95 of the granite megaliths, also called menhirs, still stand in the area and date back to the Neolithic Period (4^th and 5^th century BC). The stones at Almendres Cromlech are arranged to form two rings and visitors are free to wander all around the area, though touching the stones is discouraged.

The earliest stones were believed to have been placed here in 6000 BC and that ancient peoples used the area at Almendres Cromlech until 3000 BC for religious purposes. There is still a great deal of mystery surrounding the purpose of the stones, their placement and the markings on them, but there is speculation that the site had astrological significance due to its latitudinal location.

*The placement, purpose and meaning of the megaliths remains largely a mystery.*

There is a map of the enclosure on site, which identifies particular menhirs and describes various markings on the different stones.

*Helpful signs in English and Portuguese explain the history of Almendres Cromlech and a map of the area shows where the most important stones are located.*

*This is identified as megalith number 1 on the posted diagram. The markings are clearly visible.*

*A careful examination is required to see the ancient markings on many of the stones. Here’s a close up look at one.*

*Admission to the site is free. Guided tours can be arranged.*

We chose to take a self-guided exploration of the area but guided tours can be easily arranged. We met a Canadian couple who had hired a tour company to take them out to Almendres Cromlech. The tour company provided transport and their well-informed guide explained the mysteries of this ancient site to them. They thoroughly enjoyed their visit.

Admission to the site is free and there is plenty of parking.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright laws and may not be reprinted without permission.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Note: This post was updated Aug. 2026.

Noah Purifoy’s Amazing Outdoor Sculpture Museum: A High Desert Treasure

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the pandemic. Museums and most cultural outlets were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go.

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses, with more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Welcome

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn-off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

Assemblage Art

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

The Artist

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

Final Work

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. If you’re visiting Southern California, head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work in Joshua Tree. See the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Note: The Noah Purifoy Museum is less than an hour’s drive from Palm Springs, CA. If you’re heading to Modernism Week and have some time, check it out!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This and all material published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reprinted without express permission from the publisher.

Marvelous Modernism Week in Palm Springs

Note: Update coming soon!

Palm Springs. Just the thought conjures up sunny skies, swimming pools, palm trees; a picture perfect place to relax and enjoy the desert climate, perhaps with a cocktail in hand. Palm Springs is also a mecca for midcentury modern architecture, design and style.

Palm Springs

Palm Springs shifts into high gear each February, as Midcentury Modern fans from across the globe descend on this laid-back desert community for the 11-day festival called Modernism Week. In 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shutdown hit, 162,000 attendees came to enjoy midcentury fun in the sun. I was one of them.

*Bus tours, walking tours, bike tours, architectural tours, garden tours and my favorite– home tours– are all part of the fun at Modernism Week.*

Modernism Week offers more than 350 events including signature home tours, films, lectures, fashion shows, bus tours, bike tours, walking tours, garden tours, parties, a vintage trailer show, art exhibitions, vintage car show, design expo, cooking demonstrations, concerts all focused on midcentury modern design, architecture, art, and culture.

Fabulous Home Tours

Here’s a look at some of the featured homes from past Modernism Week festivals:

The collection of framed artwork above represents popular midcentury swimming pool shapes. The owl-themed wall paper in the bar area is also very much on brand in this 2020 Modernism Week featured home.

*This room has midcentury style in spades, from the Hockney print to the light fixture to the room divider!*

*This midcentury office was so much fun, I’m using it as my Zoom background.*

*Wallpaper was an important design element in the classic midcentury home. This room shows how bold wallpaper keeps the look fresh.*

*This shagalicious sitting area screams 1960s… and that wall paper!*

*Part of the fun of home tours is meeting the architects, designers and the home owners who live in these wonderful spaces. Kevin and Howard are designers and the homeowners here.*

Lots of desert homes have courtyards featuring brise soleil– French for “sun breaker” –to let the air in but keep the sun out. You’ll see some elaborate examples from the double decker bus tours, as well as on home tours.

Shop ‘Til You Drop

As if all those tours, presentations and special events weren’t enough, last year there were opportunities to meet with landscape architects (including my friend Amelia Lima, an award- winning landscape architect), authors, designers and other experts during the event–sometimes one-on-one to help you solve your design problems indoors and out. There was even a chance for some retail therapy at the annual vintage yard sale. There’s truly something for everyone who loves the mid-century aesthetic at Modernism Week!

*The always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo is a highlight for many at Modernism Week.*

*Shopping for vintage decor as well as brand new pieces like this cork furniture by Eugene Stotzfus is all part of the fun at the Modernism Show and Sale.*

Party Time!

In addition to all those tours and talks, demonstrations and presentations, there are parties!

*They were just putting the festive finishing touches on this home, by Christopher Kennedy, when we arrived. It’s fun to experience featured show homes in a relaxed and convivial setting.*

I usually start my day at CAMP – Modernism Week’s ‘Community and Meeting Place’ and defacto headquarters for tours and events.

CAMP

At CAMP, you’ll find information, complimentary coffee, a snack bar, pop-up bookstore and shop, cooking demonstrations, and swoon worthy sponsor displays from companies like Ferguson Kitchen, Bath & Lighting Gallery, Corian Design, JennAir, and Brizo. Many nights CAMP hosted live music by the Dreamboats and a happy hour. It was a great place to take a break, grab a bite and mingle.

*CAMP serves as “headquarters” for Modernism Week. Step inside for information, tickets, book and gift shop, coffee, snack bar, demonstrations and more.*

Due to the ongoing pandemic and local and state requirements, Modernism Week will be different this year. The 2021 celebration will actually be two events. Organizers have announced that this year’s celebration will include an all-virtual program for the entire month of February and in person events scheduled for April 8-18.

The Modernism Week Online Experience from Feb. 1 – 28, 2021 will feature more than 20 video programs available for on demand streaming throughout the month. The April 8-18 festival in Palm Springs will include in-person events, including home and garden tours, as well as additional virtual experiences. Please visit modernismweek.com for program updates.

Charles Phoenix, the always popular midcentury modern expert and author, took us on a fabulous virtual trip to some of Palm Springs most iconic homes during October Preview Week. Photo courtesy Modernism Week.

I sampled Modernism Week’s first virtual offering during the October Preview Week event which was held all online due to Covid-19. I took a wildly entertaining virtual “ride” with Charles Phoenix, the cheeky midcentury expert and author who typically leads sold- out bus tours during Modernism Week.

Elvis Presley and his bride Priscilla spent their honeymoon at this Palm Springs Swiss Miss -style home. Modernism Week’s virtual tour takes you inside where you’ll get a peek at things like the circular electric range– high style for the times!

Mr. Phoenix is a hoot, to say the least, and led a fast- paced and informative trip around Palm Springs in his vintage ride. I “visited” numerous midcentury icons including Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s Swiss Miss honeymoon hideaway and Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House with Mr. Phoenix and loved every minute of it.

*I’d seen the exterior of the Richard Neutra- designed Kaufmann House on other Modernism Week tours, but the virtual visit took viewers inside this home and many others.*

I also took virtual tours of the stunning SkyFall House—yes, you might expect Mr. Bond to arrive via parachute over the pool—the fabulous Pierre Cardin House with a 1972 special Cardin edition AMC Javelin in the garage, the Edris House with its Dixiecup lighting, and the home noted midcentury architect Donald Wexler designed for his own family, along with other historic area dwellings– all thanks to a series of videos created especially for Modernism Week. I’m looking forward to February’s slate of programs!

While the virtual programming was entertaining and informative, I’m excited about the April 2021 in person programming. Organizers have announced that all activities and events are designed to meet social distancing and safety protocols per California public health requirements.

Catch the Wave

Modernism Week’s 2020 featured homes were very special, particularly properties like the Miles Bates Wave House designed by Walter S. White.

The iconic Wave House, named for its curvilinear roof, was designed by Walter S. White for Miles Bates in 1955. The building, which had fallen into disrepair and was on the auction block when we saw it in 2018, was open for touring during Modernism Week 2020. The transformation was stunning!

Here’s what Miles Bate’s Wave House looked like when we first saw it in 2018. The inside was even sadder than the exterior. Happily it was purchased and restored to its former glory by LA’s Stayner Architects. Beginning summer 2021, it will be available for events and overnight stay rentals.

*Here’s a look at the cozy kitchen and living area of the Wave House, now beautifully restored.*

The upcoming April events will feature signature home tours, architectural walking tours, an outdoor garden tour, a number of talks and special events, plus the always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo.

*I am very excited about the return of in person home tours in April. This stunning “Mesa Modern” was a featured home in 2020.*

*Indoor/outdoor living is a hallmark of midcentury modern architecture. This home showcases the concept brilliantly!*

Visits to Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms and the William Holden Estate are part of the 2021 program, as are outdoor neighborhood tours in Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Indian Wells; tours of the Lautner Compound; fashion events; and a vintage automobile exhibition.

*Visits to historic homes like the O’Donnell House, are also a part of Modernism Week activities. I toured Ojo Del Desierto, or Eye of the Desert, as Thomas O’Donnell called his home, in 2020.*

One of the O’Donnell House bedrooms features head and footboards carved with the iconic bell that marked California’s Camino Real established by Junipero Serra during the Mission period. The home is available for rentals and events.

This year there will be two outdoor tours of Sunnylands, one of my favorite places to visit in the desert and a discovery I made during Modernism Week a few years ago. There will be a shuttle tour of the exceptional landscaping around the estate and a historic walking tour of the expansive grounds.

The former home of media mogul Walter and Lenore Annenberg, this midcentury masterpiece has hosted eight US presidents (two of whom were close friends of the Annenbergs), royalty and international leaders, and continues to play a role in promoting world peace under the auspices of the Sunnylands Trust.

When indoor tours resume, take one! You have to see the Reagan’s favorite bedroom where Mrs. Annenberg made sure to have plenty of the former President’s preferred snack—Jellybelly jelly beans that just happen to coordinate with the bed linens! You can read and see more about this desert treasure here.

Interior tours of Sunnylands are not available now due to the pandemic, but we highly recommend you take one when they return. Photography is not permitted inside the home. This image is courtesy of Sunnylands.

There are plenty of free and low-cost activities during Modernism Week. Some of the best values are the fascinating presentations given by experts in design, architecture, midcentury culture and style, and landscape design. Some of these cost as little as $10.

*Some of Modernism Week’s presentations take place at the nearby Palm Springs Art Museum, like this one about Eero Saarinen.*

*Textile designer and social “disrupter” Marguerita Mergentime was the subject of another fascinating presentation during Modernism Week 2020.*

Ticket sales support an ongoing scholarship program for Coachella Valley students embarking on an education in architecture and design. Attendees contribute to a worthwhile cause while enjoying all things midcentury modern. For more information and tickets visit Modernism Week 2021.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reprinted without express consent of the publisher.

This article may include affiliate links. I could earn a small commission if you click and purchase at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Semana Santa: How to Celebrate Holy Week in Spain

Throughout Spain, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, known as Semana Santa or Holy Week, is one of the most important of the year. Spaniards observe Semana Santa joyously and solemnly. Each afternoon and evening from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, people, sometimes numbering in the thousands, gather in city streets and town squares. They celebrate a Catholic tradition that dates back at least to the 15^th century—to the reign of the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.

The Story of the Passion

During the reign of the Catholic monarchs, as Isabella and Ferdinand were known, the population was mostly illiterate. To reach as many people as possible, they told the story of Christ’s resurrection in a way that was easily understood and that has endured for centuries, through processions.

Processions on each day of Semana Santa correspond to the story of Christ’s Passion, Death, and Resurrection with different pasos depicting specific biblical scenes from the New Testament. Here’s our experience:

*In Ronda, one of Andalusia’s famous “white towns,” Jesus is shown arriving in Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday*. *This is the beginning of Holy Week.*

500 Years of Tradition in Spain

We arrived in Madrid for the first time on a Maundy Thursday. The Thursday before Easter commemorates Christ’s Last Supper and is one of the Catholic Church’s holiest days. Though it was after 9 p.m., we were confident we’d find plenty of dinner options in a city known for dining late. Instead, we found one restaurant after another closed.

Finally, at the Bar Santa Clara, the proprietor explained most places were closed not due to the hour, but to the day. He pointed out it was Holy Week and that in Madrid people take Easter very seriously.

He said we could have “anything on toast,” but that was all they would serve that evening. We ordered everything available; cheese, tomatoes, anchovies, and ham. All on toast.

We returned to our apartment behind the Prado Museum close to midnight. Just as were getting ready for bed, our son excitedly announced that he “heard a parade”. We followed the pounding of drums and the heady scent of incense down our street towards San Jeronimo. That’s the church favored by Spain’s Royal Family. Sure enough, a candlelit procession appeared out of the dark.

Processions

We watched columns of marchers in various colored robes, faces covered, wearing tall, pointed hats. It was unsettling. Next, swaying to the music and moving slowly, came an enormous float featuring a life-sized Christ figure. The floats are called pasos.

Beneath it, we could see the strained faces of the men who somberly carried it on their shoulders. We watched until the entire procession passed into the church.

*The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful in Spain, filled in minutes before the procession began.*

We didn’t understand the scale of Holy Week celebrations in Spain, or their importance, until the next evening. We found ourselves caught up in enormous crowds between four different processions around the Plaza Mayor. This, we began to understand, was how they celebrate Semana Santa here. We joined in.

*Sevilla is famous for its elaborate Semana Santa celebrations.*

Preparing for Semana Santa

Fast forward a few years and we are in Sevilla. Though the Semana Santa festivities won’t begin for another week, preparations are well underway. Colorful banners hang from balconies lining the procession routes that crisscross the city.

Workers erect barricades and set up chairs and bleachers in key locations for those privileged few with tickets. Most onlookers crowd streets and sidewalks waiting and watching for the story of the Passion of the Christ to unfold, as it has for 500 years or more.

Meanwhile, cofradias (also called hermandades) or brotherhoods, are busy in parishes everywhere, painstakingly assembling the lavish pasos. These floats are beautiful works of art. Each features biblical scenes that tell the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection from the New Testament.

The Pasos

The pasos hold life-sized statues often handcrafted from wood and can include precious metals. They are laden with candles, fresh flowers, and icons. The most beautiful of these hold a single statue, the Madonna or Senora Dolarosa, the grieving mother of Christ.

The Madonna wears an elaborate cape, often hand- embroidered with gold and silver thread. She is bedecked in gleaming jewels and surrounded by candles and flowers.

*Jamie is a member of the confradia at the Church of the Magdalena and one of the 35 to 45 men, called costaleros, who will carry this exquisite paso through the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week.*

While the pasos are being readied, you can see them in their parishes. We spent days wandering from church to church in several cities to see these magnificent pasos up close. The exquisite detail of the pasos and the cofradias careful handiwork is even more spectacular up close.

We talked with Jamie, a member of the brotherhood at the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalene in Sevilla. He is one of the paso bearers. They are called costaleros and carry the pasos through Sevilla’s cobbled streets. Sometimes for up to six hours.

He told us some pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds and take between 35 to 45 men to carry. Only women carry the paso of the Holy Mother in some parishes, as we saw in several processions in Salamanca.

Pasos, like this one at the Monastery of San Juan do los Reyes in Toledo, are on display in churches during Holy week. Visiting different parishes gives you the chance to admire the careful craftsmanship that goes into these spectacular floats up close.

How it Begins

Shortly before a procession begins, the sidewalks and streets swell with families who seem to appear from nowhere. A carnival-like atmosphere prevails. There are street vendors selling sweets and snacks, drinks, balloons, tiny penitent figures and other souvenirs.

Soon, the incense smoke thickens, music starts, and the excitement in the air is palpable. Fathers hoist their young children onto their shoulders, and everyone crowds closer and often right into the street where the procession will pass.

Who Marches

Some processions have only drummers; most have full marching bands, and sometimes participants sing or chant. Depending on the size and importance of a brotherhood, parish, and the day in Holy Week, there will be numerous pasos in a single procession.

*People fill the streets and vendors with balloons, toys, sweets and drinks create a carnival-like atmosphere before and after Semana Santa processions.*

Embroidered banners announce the cofradias; a priest with a silver cross leads children carrying incense or lanterns. Nazarenos in their colored robes, faces covered by capuz or hoods, and hats called capirote pointing high to the heavens, follow. These are the penitents.

Then there are the Mujeres de la Mantilla. These ladies dress all in black, from their lacey veils to their shoes. They process silently and somberly, carrying candles and rosary beads.

Everywhere in Spain, men, women and children march slowly through the streets during Semana Santa’s processions, each with a role to play in this ancient ritual.

*Young, old, believers or not, everyone crowds onto Spanish streets, like this one in Granada, to watch the traditional processions that mark Semana Santa.*

It’s Emotional

It is magical and emotional to be a part of this. Many people cry silently with tears streaming down their faces, some sob violently. Others cheer and clap, or watch quietly, as the exquisite pasos pass by, but there are no blank expressions. These processions touch people at the most visceral level. Finally, the pasos will re-enter the church they left from hours before. The streets empty almost as quickly as they filled.

The Senora Delarosa represents Christ’s grieving mother, the Virgin Mary. These beautiful sculptures are bedecked in jewels and exquisite garments, and surrounded with fresh flowers and candles. They usually follow the other pasos in Holy Week processions.

How to Prepare

Every city we visited during this sacred time of year has procession routes and schedules available online and/or in print. Look for the booklets in cafes, shops and bars. This is valuable information for visitors to either find or avoid the processions.

Be aware of street closures. Whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic. Even passing on foot is extremely difficult, especially during the most important processions like on Good Friday. Sevilla, Toledo, Malaga and other cities have Semana Santa apps, updated annually. Download them on your iPhone.

*The Risen Christ greets onlookers from this paso at an Easter Sunday procession approaching Salamanca’s Cathedral.*

We have been fortunate to celebrate Semana Santa and Easter Sunday in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, Toledo, and Salamanca. Each city offered a unique and beautiful experience. No matter which region you visit, Semana Santa is an incredible time to be in Spain. It’s not too soon to begin planning for next year.

If You Go

Be prepared for huge crowds during Semana Santa.

Streets and sometimes whole areas of a city close to traffic during Holy Week. Try not to arrive in your destination city during or right before a major procession. You may not be able to reach your hotel.

Download the Semana Santa app many cities offer or check with your hotel or the local tourist office for maps and procession times.

Make hotel reservations early for the Easter holidays. Be sure to book reservations for dinner as soon as possible. Leave plenty of time if your restaurant is anywhere near a procession route.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

Autumn in Strasbourg: The Calm Before the Christmas Markets

Half- timbered buildings n Strasbourg's Petit France.

There’s much more to Strasbourg than its world-famous Christmas Markets, which attract visitors from around the globe every December. When we visited in early November, the city already felt festive, with a chill in the air and a palpable sense of anticipation.

Christmas tree with cathedral spire in background — *Strasbourg’s Christmas tree stands ready for decorating in Place Kleber. The Cathedral’s spire towers in the background.*

Galeries Lafayette unveiled its third-floor Christmas boutique and storefronts throughout the city were dressed for the season. The enormous Christmas tree was erected in Place Kleber, crews were testing the lights, and holiday decorations were beginning to sparkle across the city.

Galerie Lafayette department store with tram passing by. — *Galerie Lafayette was already showing its holiday finery.*

Residents told us that once the Strasbourg Christmas Markets officially open, from November 26 through December 24, the streets become nearly impassable. Markets pop up in every neighborhood, which adds to the magic, and the crowds, as December progresses. November felt like the perfect time to be in Strasbourg: festive and wonderfully uncrowded.

A Rich History

Strasbourg calls itself the Capital of Europe, not only because of its central position in the historic Alsace region, now part of France’s Grand Est, but also because it hosts both the European Parliament and the European Court of Human Rights.

Half- timbered building on the River Ill — *Its captivating fusion of German and French culture, cuisine, and architecture makes Strasbourg a unique destination.*

For centuries, Strasbourg shifted between French and German rule, and that cultural blend makes Strasbourg feel distinct from anywhere else in France. You’ll see it in the architecture, taste it in the food, and hear it echoed in the language. There’s no place quite like it.

What to Do and Where to Go in Strasbourg

Strasbourg Tourism Information office — *Make the Strasbourg Tourism Office your first stop for a Strasbourg City Card, information, and recommendations.*

Strasbourg has fascinating museums, beautiful churches, historic neighborhoods, lovely parks, walking tours, boat rides, and even tiny train tours. Make the Tourist Information Office in Cathedral Square your first stop and pick up a Strasbourg City Card, which gives discounts on museums, attractions, and transportation. Here are some highlights to help you plan your visit:

The Iconic Cathédrale Notre-Dame

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the city’s star attraction and the most visited cathedral in France after Paris’s Notre-Dame. Construction began in 1180 and continued until 1439. One of the first things you’ll notice is the single spire. Although builders had centuries to add a second one, wars, finances, and concerns about the stability of the landfill beneath the cathedral likely were the reason the spire is solitary. The result is an unforgettable, asymmetrical masterpiece. Its 142-meter tower made it the tallest building in Europe until the 19th century.

Notre Dame Cathedral de Strasbourg — *Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the city’s most visited site.*

The cathedral has a wonderful blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Remarkably, much of its medieval stained glass, including the spectacular rose window, has survived centuries of conflict and remains intact.

Note: The cathedral closes to tourists during mass but welcomes worshippers. Once mass ends, everyone must exit immediately. I learned this firsthand when I had to convince the guard to let me stay long enough to light a candle!

Tick Tock Don’t Miss This Clock!

The cathedral’s extraordinary astronomical clock is a must-see. More than three million people visit the clock each year. Check the sign outside the cathedral to see if it’s on display. The schedule varies. We finally saw it on our fifth and final day.

When the clock is available for viewing, enter through the side door near the gift shop. Arrive before noon to buy your 4 € ticket and claim a good spot for the 12:30 p.m. presentation. Tickets cannot be reserved. Even in November the area around the clock fills up quickly.

Strasbourg's astronomical clock — *The skeleton hammers, the cock crows and the apostles circle around Christ at exactly 12:30 PM.*

While you wait, watch the excellent video (German and French with English subtitles) explaining the clock’s history and inspired engineering. Commissioned in 1547 and completed in 1571, the mechanism tracks not only time but ecclesiastic holidays, phases of the moon, solar cycles, and the movement of the zodiac. This is an astonishing feat of 16th-century ingenuity, mathematics and craftsmanship.

At precisely 12:30 p.m., the show begins: a skeleton chimes the hour, a rooster crows, and the twelve apostles parade past the Christ figure three times. This exquisite centuries-old marvel is one of Strasbourg’s must-see experiences.

crowd of people looking at antique clock — *Get to the Cathedral by noon to stake out the best viewing spot.*

This is the third astronomical clock built for the cathedral. The first, built 1352–1354, stood in the south transept across from the current timepiece. It was replaced in 1574 by a clock whose complexity, precision, and craftsmanship brought fame to the mathematicians, clockmakers and artists who built it.

The second clock was dismantled in 1838. It has been displayed in the Decorative Arts Museum since 1924. The current clock, completed in 1840, incorporates parts of the earlier clock including several original figurines, and paintings by Tobias Stimmer who worked on the second clock.

After the presentation ends, you’re free to wander the cathedral. For an additional fee, climb the tower for panoramic city views.

Palais Rohan’s Three Must-See Museums

Just across the square from the cathedral, the elegant 18th-century Palais Rohan, often called “Little Versailles”, showcases lavish Baroque interiors, glittering gilding, and centuries of history in its three museums. Over the years it has housed nobility, monarchy, university offices, and now belongs to the municipality. With a Strasbourg City Card, admission to all three of its museums is only 8 €.

Palais Rohan courtyard — *The beautiful Baroque Palais Rohan houses three important museums.*

Musée des Beaux-Arts

The Fine Arts Museum features more than 2,000 works by European masters including Giotto, Raphael, Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Canaletto, Memling, Rubens, Van Dyck, Zurbarán, Goya, El Greco, Courbet, and Degas. The collection of paintings, sculpture, and religious art spans from the Middle Ages through the 20th century and is a must for classical art lovers.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Perhaps the palace’s most enchanting space and my favorite, the Decorative Arts Museum includes the opulent apartments of the Prince-Bishop, designed between 1732 and 1742 by Robert de Cotte, First Architect to the King, for Cardinal Armand Gaston Maximilien de Rohan-Soubise. Though damaged during the French Revolution and again during World War II, the palace has been meticulously restored. Visitors today can wander through the Guards’ Room, the Bishops’ Hall, the King’s Chamber, the Assembly Hall, the library, the private chapel, and rooms decorated for Napoleon I and Empress Josephine. Marie Antoinette, Louis XV and Charles X were among the royalty who slept here.

Opulent bedroom for Napoleon 1 — *This cozy study was converted to a bedchamber for Napoleon I.*

Each of the stately palace rooms have signage in French and English explaining their use and describing the provenance of the furnishings and artworks. The tapestries, sumptuous furnishings, carved stucco and other materials are exceptional.

Hannong ceramic tureen and platter — The fanciful porcelain designed by Paul Hannong is a highlight at the Decorative Arts Museum.

Don’t miss the Paul Hannong ceramic and porcelain collection. From whimsical oversized cabbage-ware to ornate terrines shaped like a giant boar’s head and a large turkey, this is tableware fit for a king, or at least a Prince-Bishop, for whom they were designed. There are also playful platters of porcelain eggs and pickles that leave little space for actual food but are delightful to look at. The silver collection, with objects ranging from cutlery to liturgical vessels, is equally captivating.

astrolabe and clocks — *Spend time with the historic astrolabe, clocks and globes on display. They’re truly extraordinary.*

The Decorative Arts Museum is a treasure trove of art, furnishings, tableware, silver, books, manuscripts, religious objects, and other remarkable and well-preserved antiques like the astrolabe, clocks and globes in the museum’s collections. It is the perfect place for a history buff or would-be time traveller to spend an afternoon.

Musée Archéologique

The Archaeological Museum is the oldest museum in Strasbourg. Housed on the Palais Rohan’s lower level, it holds an extensive collection of artifacts dating from prehistoric times from to the first centuries of the Middle Ages; the period ruled by the Frankish Merovingian dynasty which lasted from the 5th century until 751. This is one of France’s most important archeological collections and we were sorry to miss it on this visit.

More Museums Worth Visiting

The Historical Museum of the City of Strasbourg offers an excellent overview of the city’s origins and development. Curious about how Strasbourg was founded, who lived here, and what daily life looked like in its earliest centuries? You’ll find the answers here.

Housed in a building originally used for butcher stalls, the museum’s exhibits cover 900 years of Strasbourg history and include everything from military artifacts to pottery. Most displays feature English-language signage and there are audio guides available.

Exhibit of a building at Strasbourg City Museum — *Interactive and static exhibits tell the story of Strasbourg’s fascinating history at the City Museum.*

There are also interactive exhibits that younger visitors will love. Try on a medieval helmet to feel its weight or lift one of the stone balls once used as cannon projectiles. The museum also houses an array of medieval weaponry and full suits of armor for both soldiers and horses, always a crowd pleaser! The museum was closing before we got through all the galleries, but we will be back!

The Museum of the Cathedral’s Treasures was closed during our stay due to a national holiday. The Alsatian Museum is closed for renovation at least through the end of the year.

As always, check websites for current hours and prices. Many museums offer discounts with the Strasbourg City Card.

Locks and Landmarks

A Batorama boat tour is a relaxing way to experience Strasbourg. Departing from a pier on the River Ill just a short walk from the Strasbourg Cathedral, the company offers several itineraries and operates both open and closed boats, depending on the weather. We had a closed boat due to threatening rain, though an open-top boat would have offered better views of the city’s landmarks during the 70-minute cruise.

Headphones provide commentary in multiple languages, including English, French, German, and Italian, as you glide through Strasbourg’s scenic and historic areas. Buy tickets in advance, especially on weekends and holidays. Tours often sell out.

Locks on the River Ill in Petit France — *You’ll pass through locks in Petit France and learn a lot about this charming city on a Batorama boat tour.*

Our itinerary was the most comprehensive and included Petit France, Strasbourg’s most picturesque neighborhood. Known for its half-timbered houses, Petit France’s cobblestone streets are lined with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. In medieval times, the area was home to tanners and slaughterhouses. The upper galleries of the buildings used to dry animal hides are still visible.

The area was derisively nicknamed “Petit France” after a hospital for Napoleonic soldiers being treated for syphilis was built here. The area’s notorious past is quite a contrast to its modern day charm.

The boat also passes through Neustadt, or “New Town,” built by the Germans in the 1800s to showcase their influence and affluence. Grand boulevards, stately colonial buildings, and expansive public spaces characterize Neustadt. It is the opposite of the narrow, winding streets of Petit France. The area significantly expanded Strasbourg’s geographic footprint.

Neustadt is home to lovely parks and key government buildings, including the Ministry of Justice, the Courthouse, and the National and University Library (BNU). The BNU is the second largest library in France and holds about 3 million books, documents, rare works, ancient manuscripts, coins, and maps.

Park and government buildings in Neustadt — *Stroll Neustadt’s grand boulevards and relax in one of the beautiful parks here.*

During the tour, the boat passes through several locks, providing a fascinating look at how boats are raised and lowered along the river. Along the way, you’ll enjoy beautiful views of Strasbourg’s historic architecture, covered bridges, gardens, and modern structures like the European Court of Human Rights. You’ll likely want to return to many of the places the boat passes. We did.

Take a Walking Tour

I like to take a walking tour in every new city I visit. It’s a great way to get to know a place and ideal for first-timers. Our guide, Halima, shared fascinating stories and local lore from architectural quirks to quaint customs. Fun fact: In the Middle Ages, heart-shaped cutouts in shutters signaled marriageable daughters within!

yellow building with blue shutters with heart cut outs — *Shutters with heart cutouts advertised daughters of marrying age in Medieval times.*

Halima also provided us with recommendations for restaurants, bakeries and bars. We had a spontaneous stop at a bakery along the way to buy freshly baked macaroons. Though GuruWalk is technically “free”, participants generally give the guide 15-20 € per person at the end of the tour.

Tiny Train Tours

Strasbourg’s tourist train takes two routes; one leaves in front of the Cathedral in the historic center, and the other goes through Neustadt. We found Strasbourg extremely walkable, often clocking more than seven miles a day, but the train is fun option for families or travelers with mobility concerns.

tiny tourist train — *All aboard! The Petite Tourist Train is fun for all ages* *and is a great option for those with mobility concerns.*

A word of caution: cyclists are everywhere, and bike lanes aren’t always obvious, so be alert! If you’re staying in the city center, plan to walk or use Strasbourg’s excellent public transit system. Leave your car in the hotel garage; street parking is nearly impossible, driving is stressful, and the city center is a pedestrian-only zone.

Sip and Savor

Strasbourg is in the center of one of France’s important wine- growing regions. The Grand Est is known primarily for white wines including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Pinot Noir is the predominant red wine here. It is best suited to the climate and terroir.

woman with wine bottles — *There’s no need to leave the city to taste local wines and chat with winemakers.*

We had planned to drive to the countryside to visit wineries, but instead discovered Comptoir des Vignerons right in Gutenberg Place. The wineshop specializes in local wines and features a Vignerons du Jour program, or winemaker of the day, where a local winemaker pours and discusses their wines. For 8 €, you’ll sample five wines and chat with the vintner. Guided tastings (20 €) are also available. The shop is closed Sundays and Mondays.

Strasbourg also has its own locally brewed beer, Meteor, which you’ll find in many bars and restaurants.

Where to Eat: Try Our Favorite Tables

The culinary combination of German and French cuisine makes Strasbourg a seriously delicious dining destination. While there are plenty of international offerings, we focused on Alsatian cuisine, both traditional and innovative. Traditional dishes usually feature pork and sauerkraut, fish and sauerkraut, sausages, and hearty, meaty stews. Onion tarts, foie gras, charcroute garnie, veal kidney, and wild game are also popular Alsatian dishes. We ate most of them. Some of our favorite tables were:

Pompette: Small and elegant, the restaurant features locally-sourced dishes with a modern twist, like roasted endive with citrus to start and lamb with black olives for the main. Pompette is slang for tipsy!
Foundrefeu: We celebrated my husband’s birthday here with creative, vegetable- forward cuisine. Think mushroom mille-feuille with butternut cream.
Winstub Le Clou: Traditional, hearty Alsatian fare is served in a cozy atmosphere. We were surprised when the hostess sat another couple at our table, but we had a lovely evening with the English-speaking French couple from Normandy.
Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau: Popular with locals, expect classic Alsatian cuisine in a lively atmosphere. Dining here is also a communal experience. Chat with your neighbors! We met a nice Australian couple and three friends who work in the wine and hospitality industries. One happened to be bar manager at our hotel.
Vino Strada Restaurant: This is part wine bar, part restaurant. It’s got an Italian name, but the cooking is Alsatian and elegant. Beetroot with duck breast, figs and blackberries was an excellent starter. Our evening got livelier when a birthday group started a conga line through the restaurant!

Something Sweet

Judging by the sheer number of patisseries and bakeries in Strasbourg, Alsatians must have a collective sweet tooth. Try Patisserie Avelina for exquisite cakes and baked goods. L’Atelier 116 was also good but very crowded and there’s always a line.

cookies and baked goods — *It’s easy to satisfy a sweet tooth in Strasbourg*! *Gingerbread and other seasonal sweets were already in the shops in early November.*

Where to Stay: Art Deco Delight

Strasbourg offers hotels at every price point, but we loved Maison Rouge, a Marriott Autograph Collection property housed in a historic Art Deco building. It’s full of character and within walking distance of nearly everything we were interested in seeing.

The service at Maison Rouge was exceptional. Hotel staff were gracious, knowledgeable and incredibly helpful. On our first night, we were unsure how to get to the restaurant we had booked, and Paloma, the front desk associate who had checked us in, offered to walk us there on her way home. It was a generous gesture that we genuinely appreciated, along with her tips for navigating the city!

Why Go to Strasbourg in November?

Cathedral at night — *Strasbourg’s iconic cathedral lights up the November night.*

Visiting in early November turned out to be ideal. Hotel rates were still reasonable, the weather was cool but pleasant, and we could explore the city at a relaxed pace. River-cruise groups had begun to arrive, but nothing like the peak-season surge locals described. If you want to enjoy Strasbourg’s holiday spirit without the Christmas Market crowds, a late autumn visit offers the perfect blend of atmosphere and breathing room.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream!

An Afternoon with Otzi the Iceman: International Man of Mystery

He’s an international man of mystery, media darling, and a murder victim. Otzi the Iceman was brutally killed about 5,300 years ago and is the oldest known natural human mummy in Europe. A German couple hiking the Otzal Alps discovered his body on September 19, 1991 on a glacier in Northern Italy about 100 meters across the Austrian border — thus his nickname. We spent an afternoon with Otzi, not far from his birthplace in the Dolomites.

*Otzi’s final resting place is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen, not far from where he was born and where his body was discovered 5,300 years later.*

Custody Battle for Mummy

After a brief custody dispute (both Austria and Italy laid claim to Otzi) research on his mummified body began at Innsbruck University in Austria. He has found a final resting place at Italy’s South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano/ Bozen. Today, the entire museum is dedicated to Otzi and life in the Copper Age. Visitors can peek through a small glass window to view Otzi’s body, which is kept in a climate controlled, sealed vault. Be patient, there is always a line to see him.

*Otzi’s body is preserved in a viewable, climate- controlled vault but signage asks visitors to be respectful and refrain from photographing his remains. This acrylic model is provided for photos.*

*Scientists have created a remarkably life-like reconstruction of Otzi, one of the world’s most fascinating murder victims and Europe’s oldest natural human mummy.*

A 3-D reconstruction gives a surprisingly lifelike depiction of what Otzi would have looked like. He was believed to be 45 years old when he met his untimely death. At 5’3’’ and 110 lbs., he was short and stocky, but muscular. He wasn’t in the pink of health when his life was cut short, though. He had tooth decay, parasites and H. pylori, which would have caused numerous gastric issues. Scientists were able to retrieve and identify the contents of his stomach which included his last meal—red deer meat, unleavened bread, fruit, and an herb called hop hornbeam. He likely took that to ease his tummy troubles. His hair had high levels of arsenic and copper particles, possibly from smelting copper, which may also have contributed to his ill health. None of these things killed him though.

*Otzi’s goat hide leggings, bearskin hat, and other garments were remarkably well preserved after 5,300 years entombed in a glacier.*

*Otzi’s leggings would have extended into his shoes for warmth and protection from the snow and rain.*

What He Wore

The garments and accessories Otzi was wearing when he met his demise were remarkably well preserved by his years of glacial entombment. His lambskin loincloth, goat hide coat and leggings, and bearskin hat are all on exhibit, along with what remains of his shoes with their cow hide laces. His shoes are really something to see- made from bearskin soles, deer hide uppers and tree bark netting, they were lined with grasses that acted like socks and cushioned his feet for the long treks he made through the mountains.

*Bearskin, deerskin, tree bark netting and hay-like grasses went into the construction of his shoes. Here you can see the structural foundation as well as what remains of his well worn shoes.*

Even his deerskin quiver and arrows survive. Because of the variety of animal skins used in his clothing and accessories, researchers believe that Otzi kept and herded domesticated animals like sheep, goats and cows. Domestication of these animals was earlier than was previously thought, thanks to research done on Otzi.

*Scientists discovered blood, not his own, on Otzi’s goat skin coat, adding to the mystery around his murder.*

He also had a grass cape with him, either to wear as a raincoat or to sleep upon—or maybe both. Displays show how all of his garments fit together to protect him from the elements—pretty complicated!

*Drawings indicate how Otzi would have dressed. Fitting each item together was a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.*

Tatoos!

Otzi liked ink! He is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the oldest person on earth to sport tattoos. His body is adorned with 61 of them made by rubbing charcoal dust into fresh wounds. These are certainly not the elaborate tattoos seen today—they’re mostly crosses and lines on his back, ribs, wrist and legs and may have been used for pain relief.

*The copper head on Otzi’s axe came from far-away Tuscany, which meant he traveled widely or traded or both.*

Researchers have been able to piece together a great deal about the life and times of Otzi the Iceman based on his clothing and the items found alongside him. He had a copper-bladed axe, which would have made him a high-status individual. The copper was from Tuscany, quite a distance away, so he traveled or traded or both. He also had a flint dagger from the Lake Garda area, arrows, incomplete shafts and longbow, plus a net. Otzi was a hunter.

*The articles found near his body give us great insights into Otzi’s lifestyle and activities. A backpack frame, shown here, was one of many personal belongings discovered with him in 1991.*

He had several wooden tools used to fashion clothes or utensils—he would have needed these to make repairs or construct needed items on his long treks. He also had a birch bark cylinder likely used to carry hot embers for quickly starting a cook fire and a complex fire-starting kit. These would have been handy on his journeys for cooking and for warmth. Otzi has shown us that people travelled more widely than previously believed during the Copper Age, trading goods, services and knowledge.

*Visitors can examine Otzi’s clothing, weapons, even the contents of his last meal, and learn what scientists have finally determined was his cause of death.*

Who or What Killed Otzi?

Researchers know what the iceman wore and ate and likely what he did for a living, but mystery surrounded his murder until 2012. Was he struck in the head with a blunt object? Stabbed? Shot in the back with an arrow? Was there a fight? Or all of these things? Scrappy Otzi was definitely a hunter and a fighter. Blood from four different individuals was found on Otzi’s dagger, coat and on one of his arrows which could mean a battle. He had several broken ribs that had healed before death, and he had been struck in the head. His brain had evidence of clots which could have been from blunt force trauma that then caused stroke or embolism. He also had stab wounds on his hands. The likeliest cause of death was the arrow lodged in his left shoulder. Finally, in 2012, researchers agreed that Otzi had bled to death from the arrow wound.

*Otzi and the mysteries surrounding him have made him a popular media subject across the globe.*

Otzi’s discovery made quite a stir worldwide and was also marked by controversy. Once the significance of the find was reported, numerous people claimed to have found the body. The museum has an exhibit detailing much of the media coverage around him. Otzi is so scientifically important; the museum has a specific evacuation plan for him should a crisis arise that could damage him. He has opened a window into life in the Copper Age that would have remained closed, had those hikers not stumbled upon him back in 1991.

*Helmut and Erika Simon, a German couple, were credited with finding Otzi’s body on the Tisenjoss Pass, just over the Austrian border in Italy, while hiking in the Otzel Alps.*

Otzi’s Lineage Continues

In 2012 Otzi’s genome was sequenced using a bit of his hip bone, revealing he had brown eyes, type O blood, a predisposition to heart disease, was lactose intolerant, and may have had Lyme disease. His maternal line is extinct, but his paternal lineage is intact. In 2013, 19 Austrian men from a group of 3,700 tested, shared a unique genetic mutation with Otzi. Scientists believe that his descendants would have settled between the Dolomites and Sardinia— his genetic profile has much in common with Sardinians today —and that there are likely more of them alive today.

Our afternoon with Otzi was fascinating and we’d highly recommend a visit if you’re in the Bolzano/ Bozen area. For more information, click here.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright laws.

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