travel

Three Scoops: Gelato in Florence

After a long day of touring, or in the middle of a long day of touring, or just because you’re in Italy, in the beautiful city of Florence, you’ll want gelato. Even if it’s wintertime. Avoid the places with the big puffy gelato displays and colors not often seen in nature. Look for signs that say gelateria artigianale, naturale, or biologico. Go for gelaterias that keep the ice cream in stainless containers—covered stainless containers are even better.

Covered stainless steel containers keep gelato fresh and flavorful. Daily flavors will be listed on signs along with prices.

All the available flavors will be written on a sign and you already know what fragola (aka strawberry) looks like. We love that you can choose two or more flavors even for small cones or cups, so experiment with any flavor combination you fancy. Go wild! If someone behind the counter asks, “Panna?” Just say “Si” and your cono will be topped with delicious fresh whipped cream, often at no extra charge. Feel free to indulge.

To make your gelato even more satisfying, say yes to panna montata– fresh whipped cream often offered gratis– free!

In Florence, some say Perche No! www.percheno.firenze.it can’t be beat. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in the city, serving it forth since 1939. It is good, really good, so if you’re in the city center you should definitely stop in for a cone.

Many of the best gelaterias have lines, but they go quickly. It is worth waiting at places like La Carraia.

Often touted as the best in town, La Carraia www.lacarraiagroup.eu , with two shops in Florence, is branching out and opening a store in Rome, too. We like their gelateria on the Altro Arno just over the bridge of the same name. This is a line worth standing on– and there is always a line. They also have scrumptious looking cakes and other tempting confections but we single-mindedly stick to the gelato.

You can choose at least two flavors even on small cones.

It’s hard not to be happy with a cone in your hand.

Our little apartment’s location by the Duomo caused us to walk by Edoardo daily. www.edoardobio.it We don’t resist temptation often or easily so had ample opportunity to sample their delicious gelato. Just grab a number by the door and peruse the list of daily flavors while you inhale the intoxicating aroma of their handmade cones. Don’t worry–the line goes quickly.

Grab a number and enjoy the heady aroma of fresh baked cones while you wait at Edoardo.

This is what delicious looks like. Chocolate with chili (cioccolato con peperoncino) and cinnamon (cannella) are two of my favorite flavors.

Grom www.grom.it was the first of the “all natural” gelato we enjoyed many years ago and it’s still delicious. The company began in Torino and now you’ll find them in cities across Italy, including Florence, and around the world from New York to Jakarta. They even have an outpost in Los Angeles now.

Grom is in cities throughout Italy and worldwide.

Gelato preferences are personal, of course, so go explore. Find your favorites and please share your discoveries with us.

Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo: All About Florence’s Famous Duomo

Florence’s Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo has nothing at all to do with opera. Instead, it is all about the work, or opera, involved in building, preserving and maintaining one of the most recognizable Renaissance buildings in the world—Florence’s Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

A spectacular view of Brunelleschi’s dome from Caffe La Terrazza.

If you’ve ever wanted to see how Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome was constructed, learn what the other options were for the Duomo’s facade, or see the remarkable art treasures once housed in the cathedral, this is the place to come.

Welcome to the recently reopened and reimagined Museo del’Opera del Duomo.

Soaring galleries give visitors a new perspective on the superb sculpture on display at the museum.

Re-opened in October 2015 after years of restoration and reconstruction, the Museo dell’ Opera del Duomo has an exquisite collection of sculpture, paintings and other masterworks displayed on three floors in 6,000 square meters of exhibit space, all designed to showcase the art to its best visual and historical advantage.

A visitor gets an up close look at a statue in the museum.

Most of the works were at one time in, or outside the Duomo.

These sculptures once graced niches in Giotto’s bell tower.

Some of the treasures to be found include the original North Doors created by Lorenzo Ghiberti for the Baptistry of San Giovanni along with the Doors of Paradise by Lorenzo and Vittorio Ghiberti. Replicas now hang on the Baptistry.

Ghiberti’s stunning Doors of Paradise and North Door once graced the Baptistry of San Giovanni but can now be found inside the museum.

Detail of door.

In all, the museum boasts 750 works of art covering 720 years of history.

Arnolfo di Cambio’s stunning Christ with the Soul of Mary

This exquisite silver alter features scenes from the life of John the Baptist and was created by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Betto di Geri, Bernardo Cennini, Antonio di Salvi, Francesco and Leonardo di Giovanni, Antonio del Pollaiolo and Andrea del Verrocchio.

Michelangelo’s poignant pieta, sculpture by Donatello including his magnificent Mary Magdalene as Penitent, and works by Andrea Pisano, Antonio Pollaiolo, Arnolfo di Cambio and other highly regarded Medieval and Renaissance artists are on display.

Michelangelo sculpted this pieta for his own tomb. He later destroyed it. It was reconstructed and acquired by Cosimo de Medici In 1671 and placed in the Duomo in 1722. It was the next to last sculpture Michelangelo ever created.

Donatello’s Mary Magdalene as Penitent draws many visitors.

Sacred items and iconography are part of the museum’s extensive collection.

In the Cappella Musicale, or music gallery, you will hear enchanting sacred music, and find works by Luca della Robbia and others, as well as rare illuminated music books.

Beautiful music fills this gallery where rare illustrated books, sacred objects and art treasures are displayed.

Brunelleschi’s dome, still considered a marvel of engineering, remains one of Florence’s most iconic monuments.

Models of Brunelleschi’s dome show how it was built and why it remains an engineering marvel.

In addition to the art treasures, the museum contains original building materials, equipment and tools, dating back to the Duomo’s 15^th century construction.

Wooden pulleys, ropes and other original construction equipment used to build the Duomo can be seen at the museum.

Original 15th century tools and equipment used to build the Duomo are displayed near a continuously running film that explores the design and construction.

Also featured are drawings and models of the dome and Giotto’s bell tower, which was begun in 1334, after Giotto’s death. An outdoor terrace offers splendid views of the dome.

Brunelleschi’s wooden model of the dome fascinates visitors.

A detailed model of the bell tower designed by Giotto is on display near beautiful stained glass windows created by notables including Ghiberti, Donatello, Paolo Uccelli and Andrea del Castagno.

Visitors to the museum will learn about the history of this spectacular cathedral, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and dedicated in 1412. The name Santa Maria del Fiore means St. Mary of the Flowers or Virgin of the Flowers. Once the largest church in all of Europe, today it is third in size, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral.

A film called Courage to Dare about Florence during the Renaissance and the creation and construction of the Duomo runs continuously in the museum.

A number of possibilities considered for the Duomo’s facade are on display, including this one.

Combination tickets can be purchased for the Duomo Museum, the Baptistery, the bell tower and the Crypt of Santa Reparta, named for the 7^th century church that once stood on the site of the Duomo. There is no charge to enter the Duomo, but paid tickets are required for visitors who wish to climb the more than 400 steps to the top of the bell tower.

The Baptistry of San Giovanni always draws crowds. Tickets are required to enter.

Appropriate clothing is essential for entry. In other words, no shorts, short skirts or skimpy, shoulder baring tops on women or men. Bulky bags and backpacks must be checked. Visit www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it for information on ticket prices, hours and tours.

Admission to the Duomo is free but take care to dress appropriately or you will be denied entry.

On our visit, we also had free access to a photographic exhibition called Opera di Viva by Michele Pecchioli, which paid tribute to the hundreds of men and women who have worked to preserve the artistic integrity and cultural heritage of the building and the art works within for more than 700 years.

Michele Pecchioli’s photographs pay tribute to the men and women who restore and preserve the art and cultural heritage of Florence’s iconic Duomo.

The photos feature the restorers, artists, employees and security guards who play a role in safeguarding these treasurers and ensuring public access to the works for years to come. Note: This was a temporary exhibition and may now longer be available for viewing.

A close up of a security guard charged with safeguarding the priceless treasures at the Duomo and its museum.

When the sun begins to set in Florence, head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for another perspective on the Duomo —and enjoy the gorgeous vista across the Arno over the city.

Some of the most spectacular views of Florence can be had from the Piazzale Michelangelo. Don’t miss a visit to the beautiful San Miniato al Monte across the street. It’s the oldest church in Florence, after the Baptistry.

Florence’s Duomo viewed from Piazzale Michelangelo.

The department store La Rinescente has a terrace restaurant with fine views of the Duomo, as well as drinks and light fare.

If you crave an aperitivo with your sunset and Duomo views, go to La Rinascente, the department store on Piazza Repubblica. Go directly up to La Terrazza on the top floor and you’ll find a little rooftop café/bar with great views of the city and the iconic dome. It gets crowded so get there early or be prepared to wait.

Sensational sunset view over the Piazza della Repubblica from Caffe La Terrazza.

Cin Cin!

Florence’s Fantastic Mercato Centrale

Craving a cappucino and a cornetto? Need a bouquet of fresh flowers or picnic provisions? How about fresh pasta to enjoy at home? Or maybe you’re just in the mood for pizza and a beer? Florence’s Central Market or Mercato Centrale Firenze is Florence’s answer to foodie heaven. Housed in a historic building originally erected in 1847, and open from 10 a.m. to midnight, this is the place to go.

Pick up picnic provisions like salami, cheeses, prosciutto and more at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

Fresh pastas and delicious sauces to go with them make a tasty and quick meal that’s easy to prepare in your vacation rental.

The market on the ground floor is fun to explore with every kind of seasonal produce, pastas, sauces, meats, cheeses, and flowers. Anything you could want that’s fresh and in season is right here.

The Mercato Centrale has a bounty of seasonal produce, herbs and fresh flowers.

Upstairs at the Mercato Centrale is one of our favorite stops for for lunch, though you can also have breakfast, snacks, sweets, drinks and dinner here.

Neapolitan-style pizza is done right at La Pizzeria Sud.

Go get some terrific Neapolitan style pizza at Pizzeria Sud. You can take your slices to one of the communal tables or go upstairs for table service. We opted for the former and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the place.

Lunch is ready!

There are lots of tasty options– pasta, panini, cheese and meat platters, fish, pizza, even burgers and fried chicken to choose from. There is also a coffee bar, wine, beer, pastries, gelato and delicious desserts–something to please most any palate.

Choose your favorite foods from the array of vendors upstairs at the market and grab a seat at the communal tables. Mangia!

Everything on offer here from the hamburgers made from Chianina beef at La Toraia di Enrico Lagorio, the pasta from Raimondo Mendolia, Maurizio e Poala Rosellini’s fresh fish, the bufala mozzarella, beautiful baked goods, chocolates and gelato are all of the highest quality.

A great selection of fresh or aged cheeses to eat now or enjoy later are readily available.

If you’re looking to really splash out, try these fragrant truffles.

If your tastes run more to fried foods, you’re in luck.

We even sampled the trippa fritta—fried tripe, a Florentine favorite, though not to my taste.

Trippa fritta is a Florentine favorite.

After lunch (or dinner), you’ll probably want coffee and something sweet. Please remember that no self-respecting Italian would even consider ordering a cappuccino, latte or similar milky coffee drink after breakfast hours. Stick to the espresso. Ask for a caffe lungo if you miss your American coffee. Desserts are in abundance here and include gelato, pastries, cookies, and cannoli, which are stuffed while you wait—as they should be. Crushed pistachios on the ends are optional.

These confections look almost too good to eat. Almost…

Upstairs is also where you’ll find Eataly, which features Italian grocery items, household goods, personal care items and my favorite Florentine soaps from Nesti Dante. You’ll also find a wine shop specializing in Chianti Classico selections, a cooking school, a bancomat (ATM) and public restrooms which are in short supply in many cities like Florence.

If you’re looking for Italian wines, particularly those from the Chianti Classico region, you’ve come to the right place.

Students pay rapt attention at the Lorenzo de Medici Cooking School upstairs at the Mercato Centrale.

If you feel the need for yet more shopping, there are also stalls outside the building on the surrounding streets with scarfs, leather items, and souvenirs—all the typical Florentine goods you’d expect to find.

Shoppers can find everything from dry pasta to Pinocchio at the market and stalls outside.

Buon appetito and happy shopping!

Picture Perfect Panzano in Chianti

Panzano in Chianti is right in the heart of Chianti’s wine growing region and has been one of our favorite Tuscan getaways for many years. The small town is located midway between Florence and Siena, on the Chiantigiana/Highway 222, making it the perfect location from which to embark on day trips to these beautiful Tuscan cities. Other popular destinations like San Gimignano, Volterra and Pisa are also within easy driving distance, as are lovely nearby towns like Radda, Greve and Castellina in Chianti.

Steps lead down to reception at Villa Pecille in Panzano.

We have always rented from Sammie Daniels, founder of Stay Italia. In Panzano, we’ve stayed at Casa La Rota and Villa Pecille numerous times. Both are located on vineyard property owned by the family behind Fontodi Winery and are situated on the Conca del Ora, some of the most gorgeous countryside in Tuscany. Casa La Rota is surrounded by vineyards and is a five-minute drive into town. Villa Pecille overlooks the Conca del Ora and is a short walk into the village of Panzano.

La Rota is surrounded by Fontodi’s beautiful vineyards.

Casa La Rota.

All the apartments at La Rota and Villa Pecille are fully furnished and equipped with just about everything anyone could need to feel at home. Some have fireplaces. The two properties offer a range of accommodations suitable for two to eight people and both have swimming pools, ample outdoor areas for relaxing, and laundry facilities.

One of the terraces at Villa Pecille.

The pool at Villa Pecille.

Both La Rota and Villa Pecille have lots of lovely outdoor spaces to enjoy.

Sammie, who is American, is an expert on the area and has been here since 1985 when she opened a B & B in nearby Greve. She went on to remodel and manage the Vignamaggio Hotel, which was the setting for Much Ado About Nothing starring Kenneth Branaugh and Emma Thompson in 1993. In 1995, Sammie moved to Fontodi and opened Casa La Rota and has been there ever since. Sammie can assist guests with restaurant recommendations, wine tastings, even organizing dinners prepared in your villa.

Our spacious, fully equipped kitchen at Villa Pecille’s La Loggia.

La Loggia’s beautiful dining room is perfect for entertaining.

Sammie also has other properties in the area and several apartments in Florence.

The Piazza Bucciarelli is at the center of village life in Panzano in Chianti.

While not a large town, Panzano has its own market every Sunday morning in the main square— Piazza Bucciarelli—until about 1 p.m. The market is a great place to pick up fresh produce, fabulous cheeses, hot roast chicken, pasta and sauces, clothing, and household goods.

You can purchase Mr. Moreno’s superb selection of cheeses at Greve’s Saturday Market or in Panzano on Sunday mornings.

Clothing, accessories, shoes and more are available at Panzano’s Sunday Market.

The stores in town including the Coop (supermarket), pharmacy, and smaller shops near the main square and on Via Giovanni de Verrazzano, the road that leads up the hill to Santa Maria Assunta, are also open on Sundays but only until 1 p.m. There is also a much bigger weekly market in nearby Greve on Saturday mornings.

Fresh seasonal produce is at the heart of the market.

The town of Panzano is home to perhaps the most famous butcher in the world—the colorful, Dante- reciting Dario Cecchini. His Antica Macelleria Cecchini is technically a butcher shop but really so much more. Walk into his macelleria on a Sunday morning and it’s like there’s a party going on. He has a great spread of complimentary appetizers including his famous “Tuscan butter” (lardo), salamis, cheeses, olive oil, bread and wine.

Dario Cecchini may be the best known butcher in the world.

In addition to superb meats ready for your grill or oven, it is possible to purchase prepared dishes like porchetta—a delicious roast pork dish, polpetti—giant meatballs, and other local specialties for a picnic or easy meal at home. Service is friendly and English is spoken—Dario’s wife is a Californian. The ever-accommodating Dario is often willing to pose for photographs for international visitors who make the pilgrimage to Panzano to see him.

The very personable Dario Cecchini with our son this summer (top), and many years ago during one of our first holidays in Panzano.

Dario also has several restaurants: Solociccia, which is Tuscan slang for “only meat” and features cuts of beef from top to tail; Solociccino is a mini version of Solociccia and open for lunch only; Officina della Bistecca showcases sensational steaks including the famous Bistecca Fiorentina; and Dario DOC—which serves lunch from Monday through Saturday and is the only Dario restaurant where reservations are not required. All of the restaurants serve family style, multi course, prix fix meals, and while famous for top quality meat, vegetarian options are offered.

Complimentary meats, cheeses, bread, wine and Dario’s famous “Tuscan butter” are a tasty treat for visitors to the macelleria.

The butcher shop and restaurants draw people from around the globe-a lot of people. Dario’s Sunday lunches are especially popular so book in advance if you’d like to partake in these multi course extravaganzas. In the warm weather diners are served outside on long communal tables. We’ve met interesting people from all over the world at these delicious, leisurely meals. Dario also offers classes/workshops in butchery, which must be reserved in advance. All the details for the shop, restaurants and classes are here.

This sculpture welcomes visitors to Il Molino di Grace’s tasting room outside Panzano.

Wine tasting is a popular Tuscan past time and Panzano is a marvelous place to indulge in this pleasure. There are three wine bars or enoteca on or across from the main piazza—Enoteca Baldi at 25 Piazza Bucciarelli, Misticoteca at 13 Piazza Bucciarelli, and the newest, Il Cardo at 50 Piazza Bucciarelli. These are all about a three-minute walk (or less) from one another.

Enoteca Baldi is popular with locals and visitors alike. Bring your beverage outside and enjoy it on the Piazza if you like.

Enoteca Baldi and Il Cardo offer a selection of light foods to accompany your wine. Misticoteca, whose delightful owner Misty always has a warm welcome for visitors, has olive oils, specialty foods and gift items available for purchase. There almost always seems to be a crowd there.

Misticoteca was a popular place to watch the Giro d’Italia but this enoteca always draws a crowd.

We were fortunate to have our recent visit coincide with the Giro d’Italia—a major bicycle race—and its attendant 15 Giorni di Rosa or 15 Days of Pink—an exhaustive calendar of public events ranging from bicycle themed films, musical concerts, theatrical performances, free lectures, and of course, wine tastings.

The Bar Dante Alighieri in Radda is perfect for a coffee, light meal or a drink.

Shopkeepers in Radda were thinking pink for the Giro d’Italia.

The events were held in Radda, where the race would begin; Castellina in Chianti, San Donato, Panzano, through which the race passed; and Greve, where the race would end.

Greve welcomed racers and bicycling enthusiasts for the Giro d’Italia.

The day before the race, Unione Viticoltori de Panzano in Chianti presented Vino al Vino Miniatura, a smaller version of the wine tasting event the group hosts every September. All members of the organization had their wines available for tasting.

Panzano’s vintners presented Vino al Vino in Minaturo the day before the big race.

Wineries represented at that festive Saturday afternoon event included Fontodi, Il Molino di Grace, Casaloste, La Massa, Cennatoio, Fattoria la Quercia, Tenuta degli Dei and Castello dei Rampolla, among other local producers, 20 in total by my count. A souvenir glass and the opportunity to taste all of the delicious wines on offer cost just 10 Euro. There was live music in the Piazza Bucciarelli as well as local art on display to keep participants entertained while they sipped.

Great wines, music and a beautiful day brought people to Panzano’s Piazza Bucciarelli.

We visited Fontodi and Il Molino di Grace for wine tastings on this visit, and have toured and tasted at many others over the years. Here’s a list of local wineries, touring/tasting/direct sales availability, and other information.

A visit to Fontodi– one of the region’s premier wine producers.

The delightful and knowledgable Rina Lapini prepares to pour Fontodi’s flagship Flaccianello for visitors.

Contact wineries directly to make arrangements for private tours and wine tastings prior to arriving in Tuscany. Some are open to the public and some are not. Some offer complimentary tastings and some charge a fee.

Doors on Via Giovanni de Verrazzano, the main street off Piazza Bucciarelli leading up the hill to Santa Maria Assunta.

Panzano is also a fine place to have custom shoes, belts and hand bags made by local leather artisan Carlo Fagiani; visit a gallery that specializes in local artists’ work (we enjoyed a photography exhibition by Jeferson Silva Castellari and purchased one of his photographs on canvas); pick up antique or modern hardware; stop into a beautiful church– Santa Maria Assunta, which has a painting of the Annunciation attributed to Ghirlandaio and a 14^th century Madonna from Botticini; or just relax with a coffee at our favorite bar, Caffe la Curva (it’s called Bar of the Curve because that’s where it is), or stop by for gelato and apperitivi later in the day.

Order custom made shoes, belts and handbags at Carlo Fagiani in Panzano.

Caffe la Curva is a great place to start the day with a cappuccino and cornetto or end it with an apperitivo.

Panzano’s bucolic beauty beckons us back again and again.

However you chose to spend your time in this beautiful place, enjoy la dolce vita in Italia and perhaps you’ll understand why we’ve returned to Panzano in Chianti again and again.

Day Tripping– Lovely Lucca

The lively and lovely small city of Lucca is the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini and a wonderful place to spend one day or several. We’ve had a few day trips from our home base in Panzano in Chianti (www.stayitalia.com more on that in another post) and keep promising ourselves to spend more time here.

Lucca is a popular destination for visitors to Tuscany and easy to reach by car or train from Florence.

You cannot drive inside the walled city. You must park in one of the lots outside. Be sure to look for the pay station if you park in any area with blue lines. White lines mean free parking, but blue lines require payment. We were so excited to get a spot near the Porta Santa Maria that we didn’t even notice we were in a pay zone and came back to find a parking ticket on our windshield. Note—if you get a parking ticket, pay it while you are still in Italy at any Post Office. You can do so with cash or credit card and you’ll avoid paying your car rental company the fee they charge to provide the Italian government with your information plus you’ll avoid the hassle of paying via wire transfer/foreign currency once you return home.

Bicycling is a popular means of getting around in Lucca– inside the city walls and on top of them.

Once you get inside the walls, Porte San Pietro is the main gate–find an Info Point—Porta Santa Maria or Porta San Donato both have them. Pick up a tourism map which has several itineraries for exploring the town. Itineraries are in Italian, English and German and include opening times, closing days, and other important information for the major sites such as museums and churches.

Visitors and locals alike stroll or bicycle around Lucca’s famous medieval walls. Bicycle rentals are readily available.

Lots of people go to Lucca to “walk the wall” or ride bicycles around the city on the top of its ancient fortifications—Passaggiata delle Mura. The medieval walls built in 1544 replaced earlier Roman ones and extend 4,195 meters around the perimeter of Lucca. There are plenty of bicycle rental places just inside the walls, particularly near the Porta Santa Maria. It was a blustery, rainy day when we were there a few weeks ago, so we put this on our list for next time.

Now a place for picnics and soccer practice, the grassy area around the walls was once a moat.

If you have time for a delicious and leisurely lunch (or dinner), go to la Buca di Sant’Antonio, Via della Cervia 3, 55100 Lucca +39058355881 www.bucadisantantonio.com. The restaurant specializes in traditional cuisine of the area and the food is delicious.We’ve had several memorable meals here.You must reserve a table because the restaurant is quite popular.

Put Buca di Sant’ Antonio on your list of delightful restaurants in Lucca.

Maccheroni lucchesi al sugo di coniglio– housemade pasta with rabbit sauce– as delicious as it looks.

Puntarella alla Romana– a crisp, bitter salad topped with anchovies widely regarded as a Roman specialty.

Petto di faraona all’ uva moscato– guinea fowl in a wonderful moscato wine sauce with crispy pancetta. Yum!

The Church of St. Michele in Foro is one of Lucca’s “must visit” sites. It was built on the site of the Roman forum in the 11^th and 12^th centuries and is still the center of city life. The church has works by Luca della Robbia and Fillipino Lippi, among others.

This beautiful church is worth seeing both for its architecture and the wonderful art inside.

San Michele in Forno.

Piazza San Martino is home to Lucca’s duomo of the same name. Built in the Gothic Romanesque style, this beautiful church contains some important artworks by Ghirlandaio, Tintoretto and Fra Bartolomeo as well as the Holy Face of Lucca, a wooden Christ on a crucifix attributed to Nicodemus, as legend has it.

The anfiteatro is another of Lucca’s attractions. Built in the second century AD, the amphitheater’s former arena is now home to many shops and restaurants built into the ancient Roman walls, which are interesting to see from both inside and outside.

This Roman amphitheater once hosted games and gladiators. Now it’s a popular dining and shopping destination.

The Torre delle Ore, or clock tower, dates back to 1390. It is the tallest tower in town and has 207 wooden steps that ambitious visitors are welcome to climb. In its early days, the time was announced by bells alone but a clock face was added in 1752.

Hardy souls who climb the tower can see the hand-wound clock mechanism from the 18th century. It’s still working!

Lucca has a Puccini Museum, of course, which is at Corte San Lorenzo 9 (near the Piazza Citadella)– the composer’s birthplace. The museum features furnishings, artworks, pianos, musical scores and other personal belongings including letters and notes from and to Puccini.

Shopping seems to be a popular past time in Lucca and there is no shortage of brand names from which to choose.

Lucca has plenty of stores to keep shoppers happy.

This giant sewing machine is a clever advertisement for the Milanese menswear maker.

Lucca is perfectly suited to those who like to wander, and we do, but after awhile we needed a break and stopped in for a gelato at De’Coltelli, 10 Via San Paolina, www.decoltelli.it . Definitely seek this one out for their terrific artisanal gelato offered with complimentary panna (thick, sweetened whipped cream), which just adds to the deliciousness!

Panna is offered free as a thank you to gelato lovers here.

If it’s a drink or coffee you crave, pop in to The Dark Side—a cool little bar at 24 Via San Frediano at the corner of Via Angillara near the Church of San Frediano.

Come over to the Dark Side. You’ll be glad you did.

Step inside San Frediano for the beautiful baptismal font and works by Sienese sculptor Jacapo della Quercia, Matteo Civitali, and Amico Aspertini. The stunning facade features a golden mosiac depicting the Ascension.

Although we had come in for a quick coffee, we stayed for more than a half hour. The bartender was really friendly and he gave us tastes of some popular aperitivos along with descriptions of everything we sampled.

Our knowledgable and friendly bartender at the Dark Side.

The Dark Side’s complementary snacks, served with drinks, looked abundant and delicious, but we were off to Pisa.

Menfi, Southwest Sicily and Planeta Estate’s La Foresteria

A giant golden sun welcomes visitors to Menfi, Sicily.

You won’t find much in the guidebooks about Menfi and there is a reason for this. It is a small, unremarkable town in the Southwest of Sicily with no major tourist attractions but there are several excellent reasons to put it on your itinerary. First off, Menfi is a great base for day trips to Selinunte, Segesta, Erice, Marsala, Trapani and other nearby destinations–there is a lot to explore in this part of Sicily. Second, is that is the Planeta family, known for their highly regarded Sicilian wines, has a lovely, small hotel called La Foresteria located just a few kilometers outside of town. This peaceful oasis is between Menfi and Porto Palo, a small seaside community with beautiful, pristine beaches–more on that later.

Welcome to La Foresteria.

Planeta’s La Foresteria is surrounded by beautiful countryside which leads to the sea.

La Foresteria has simple, well-appointed and comfortable rooms. Ours, named Timo (thyme), had a large bed, small sitting area, ample closet space and a bathroom with a double shower and very nice toiletries. The room also had a mini fridge and a safe. Depending on location, each of the 14 rooms has either a patio or balcony with views out over the vineyards and fields to the sea—very tranquil. Besides birdsong, the only other sounds you’re likely to hear are distant tractors working the land. It is an oasis of tranquility.

We had a typical room at La Foresteria– large, comfortable, simple but well appointed.

Rooms have views from their terraces or patios across the fields and on to the sea.

There is a gorgeous infinity pool if you’re up for a swim or for just lounging around and enjoying a sunset cocktail. The hotel has plenty of comfortable public spaces to relax and read, chat or enjoy the peace and quiet. There is also a small gym on the property.

The inviting pool at La Planeta’s La Foresteria, near Menfi, Sicily.

La Foresteria’s pool is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset and a cocktail.

During the summer season through September, La Foresteria has a private beach club for guests. Friends have given it good reviews and really enjoyed the onsite massage service and lunch but both of our visits have been in October, after the beach club was closed. The weather was still perfect though, and the hotel provided us with beach chairs, towels and umbrellas to use at the nearby beaches.

The beaches in nearby Porto Palo are among the cleanest and most pristine in all of Europe and proudly sport the blue flags awarded by the EU Foundation for Environmental Education proclaiming this. We practically had the beach to ourselves and the water was crystal clear and gloriously warm. Take some time off from touring to relax by the sea.

The area near Menfi is known for its beautiful and pristine beaches.

Another reason to stay at La Foresteria is the incredible cuisine prepared by Chef Angelo Pumilia. He takes full advantage of the fresh seafood and abundant vegetables from the area. The menu, which changes seasonally, features classic Sicilian dishes and while we were there, a number of crudos—raw fish dishes that were all excellent, along with artfully prepared pasta and meat courses.

Dinner is served on the terrace during warmer months. Here Chef Angelo welcomes us back to La Foresteria.

Everything we ate, and we each had three courses most nights, was superb. During our two stays (12 nights) we sampled most items on the menu– swordfish, prawns, mullet, chick pea soup, linguine with sardines, ricotta and mint ravioli, different lamb, beef and pork preparations– all were delicious– but Chef Angelo’s couscous was especially outstanding.

Chef Angelo’s spectacular couscous includes both raw and cooked fish.

The local seafood is prominently featured on the menu…

…and artfully prepared and presented.

Guests may choose from several prix fix options or order a la carte. Whichever choice you make, save room for his sublime desserts. The olive oil ice cream and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria (wine) ice cream were my favorites.

Cerasuolo ice cream makes a perfect dessert.

As expected, the reasonably priced wine list is heavily populated with Planeta offerings, but other producers’ wines are available as well. La Foresteria’s knowledgeable staff will gladly guide you.

Planeta wines dominate the wine list, naturally, but other producers are represented as well.

Breakfast is a lovely affair with a bountiful buffet featuring fresh fruits, cheeses, hams, hard cooked eggs, pastries, cakes, juices, coffee drinks, and tea– all enjoyed on the expansive terrace.

Guests choose their breakfast favorites. Coffee drinks are made to order and served at the table.

This table doubles as the communal dining table for dinner during cooler weather.

Both breakfast and dinner were served outside on the patio on our last visit—a fine way to enjoy the great views and warm weather. On our first stay, only breakfast was available on the patio. Dinner was served inside at a large communal table, which was very convivial, and a great way to meet other guests. We made new friends from Italy, France, Belgium, England, Japan and New Zealand.

Guests enjoy breakfast and beautiful views on La Foresteria’s terrace.

While guests have priority for dining room seating, in the morning you should let the front desk staff know if you plan to dine at La Foresteria that evening. I would also recommend booking if you plan to enjoy dinner the evening you arrive. You wouldn’t want to miss out on Chef Angelo’s outstanding cuisine!

The talented and personable Chef Angelo Pumilia presides over La Foresteria’s kitchen.

If you’d like to learn more about Sicilian cuisine, the hotel offers cooking classes with Chef Angelo. Our schedule couldn’t accommodate a full class so we opted for a “Chat with the Chef” one evening for an hour before dinner. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation in the kitchen with Chef amid the hustle and bustle of the evening’s dinner preparation. The front desk will arrange either of these options for you as well as a visit to Planteta’s nearby wine estate. We had an informative tour, terrific wine tasting and a delicious lunch with Chiara Planeta. It was a memorable afternoon, which ended with a relaxing dip in the pool and a well-deserved nap.

A quiet moment at Da Vittoria, before the lunch crowd.

If you choose to dine off property, try Da Vittoria. This local favorite is less than a 10- minute drive from La Foresteria and is right on the beach. The restaurant specializes in seafood and whole fish dishes in particular. We enjoyed some wonderful pasta dishes including shrimp and pistachios, a red mullet pasta and other equally good seafood pasta combos. Our least favorite was the house pasta combination. The grilled fish was simply prepared but so fresh and delicious —the swordfish in particular.

The excellent shrimp and pistachio pasta at Da Vittoria.

Simple but delicious fishcakes made from local catch.

Mandrossa’s Fiano was a perfect accompaniment to our lunch.

The portions are huge at Da Vittoria. Do not be shy about sharing—just say, “Uno per duo, per favore!” We had several lunches and dinners here and enjoyed the food, the view and the people watching each time. Even though the restaurant is quite large it fills up, so do book in for lunch or dinner.

Next up, day trips to consider.

Note– While I do lavish praise on La Foresteria, I have no commercial relationship with the hotel. I just really enjoy staying there!

Happy New Year!

Rome, Italy

Happy New Year! In the year ahead we’re looking forward to returning to some of our favorite European cities including Berlin, Florence and Rome. We’re also planning a first time visit to Milan, named #1 travel destination for 2015 by the New York Times.

Florence, Italy

We’ll also be back to Portland, OR, San Francisco, Los Angeles and other U.S. destinations still to be determined.

Need we say more?

San Francisco’s Ferry Building

Since we live in sunny San Diego, we’ll be exploring some places closer to home and will share those, too.

Polar Bear at San Diego Zoo

San Diego Bay

We hope you’ll join us on our travels and look forward to your comments.

Around Town in Taormina, Sicily

Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.

The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.

Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.

Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.

How do all these shops stay in business?

Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.

Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.

Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.

La Fontana, Taormina.

Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.

Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.

Taormina, Sicily.

More, more, more.

Modern ceramics are popular, too.

Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.

Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.

This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.

Taking a break in Taormina.

There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.

Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.

The humble but tasty arancino.

Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!

Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.

If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.

The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.

The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.

Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.

Some of the 700+ steps that lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.

The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.

The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.

You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.

The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.

If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.

If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.

Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.

Spectacular Sicily: Taormina Practicalities

Like many travelers, we chose to start our Sicilian adventure in Taormina. About an hour’s drive north from the Catania airport, Taormina is high above the Ionian Sea, affording fantastic views of both the sea and Mt. Etna, especially if you have chosen lodging above the town as we did, at the Villa Ducale. More on that later.

Taormina, Sicily.

Mt. Etna peaks through the clouds, Taormina, Sicily.

The drive up the winding A18/E45 to Taormina is usually uneventful except for when you have to share the narrow roadway with enormous tour buses and trucks careening through curves beside you. As we approached the A18/E45 toll way on our last visit, we saw traffic backed up for a good distance—this was unusual. When we finally arrived at the ticket booths, we noticed many people leaving their cars and walking up to the ticket machines. There were no workers on site and the machines were not functioning either. A number of the toll barriers had been lifted up and people were just driving through—without tickets. We followed suit while I frantically searched my memory banks for the Italian words to tell the toll taker at the other end why we had no ticket. I had just about figured out what to say when we reached our exit and saw the big posters pasted on the tollbooth—Sciopero–Strike! We should have known. There are frequent strikes in Italy. They are usually announced in the media in advance of the event and they are not particularly long lived. It is a good idea to pay attention to what and who exactly will be striking, particularly if you are relying on public transportation.

Memorize the word sciopero-- strike! They occur often in Italy.

Memorize the word sciopero– strike! Strikes occur often in Italy.

That experience behind us, we continued our drive up into the hills above the city of Taormina to our hotel—The Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci, 60, Taormina. I must admit all those glowing Trip Advisor reviews I read made me a little apprehensive when I booked in for our first visit last year. How could anyplace be that good? I’m pleased to report that it is indeed a wonderful place to stay. We have stayed there twice for a total of seven nights and were delighted with our lodging, the service, staff and the quiet location above the busy town of Taormina.

Our room at Villa Ducale, high above Taormina, Sicily. Sister hotel, Villa Carlotta is located in Taormina, closer to the sea.

Our terrace at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily. We also had a small balcony.

Friendly, attentive service is a hallmark at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

There is no “restaurant” at the hotel however; dinner is served nightly on their beautiful terrace with gorgeous views to the sea below and Mt. Etna above. Sit back with a nice glass of prosecco, enjoy the view and peruse the menu featuring delicious Sicilian specialties like fresh tuna or swordfish prepared in a number of ways, pastas featuring seasonal ingredients, several meat dishes, and lovely vegetable dishes and salads. They have a good wine list with reasonably priced local selections. Desserts are also terrific. Everything is prepared in- house and with a deft hand. Service is attentive and the terrace is glorious. If you stay at Villa Ducale, be sure to book in for dinner your first night (at least) as they have limited seating.

Dinner on the terrace, Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

Simply grilled swordfish at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.

Breakfast is also served on the terrace, as are complimentary cakes at teatime and appetizers at cocktail hour. There is also a sister property, Villa Carlotta, down in the town of Taormina. It has a pool, which is available to guests at both hotels, and there is a complimentary shuttle that goes between the two as well as to the town.

Unless we were going further afield, as we did when we drove up the Etna, we parked our car at the hotel and relied on public transportation and taxis. Parking is a nightmare in town and the winding, narrow roads are harrowing.

Complimentary cakes are served at teatime at the Villa Ducale, Taormina.

Next up, exploring the town of Taormina. Be prepared for lots of tourists and souvenir shops, but several “must sees” and some hidden treasures!

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