travel

Fairbanks in Summer: Fun Under the Midnight Sun

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds.

The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history.

We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

Sled Dogs

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

Athabaskan Culture

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead.

Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

Athabaskan Fashion

We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.

We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

Alaskan Ingenuity

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage.

Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park.

Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Safety First

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos.

Staying in Shape

We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

If You Go

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you. I appreciate your support!

Listen to the World at Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum

If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.

*Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.*

Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.

*I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!*

The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!

*Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!*

Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.

*Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria*.

*Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.*

We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.

*Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence*?

Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.

*The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow*, *shown below.*

*Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the **Treasures** exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.*

The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.

*This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.*

Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.

*Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.*

*I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums*.

The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.

Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.

Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.

*The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course*!

In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!

*Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!*

*Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.*

Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.

*Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.*

Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.

In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.

*Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!*

*No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!*

Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?

This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.

Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.

*Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranian* *province of Hormozgan.*

Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.

*Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.* *This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.*

Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.

*The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!*

Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the **Treasures** exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.

Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.

Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com is Protected by US copyright laws.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may make a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

What to Do in Porto: From Port Tasting to Amazing Art

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene,. There are beautiful churches, a fascinating history, amazing art, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine. All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

A Visit to Taylor Fladgate

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards. No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

*The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.*

*Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden. There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S. for ports of this quality.

*Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.*

*This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.*

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

*Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.*

Eiffel Bridge

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro. It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below.

*Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.*

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.

Museu Serralves: Contemporary Collections

*A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.*

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan. Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber.

*There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.*

*Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.*

*The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.*

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

*Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.*

Museu National Soares dos Reis: Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

*“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.*

The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal. — *A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.*

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

*The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.*

*Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.*

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

*Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.*

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

*The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.*

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

*Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.*

*Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.*

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos. A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

*Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.*

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

*A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.*

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower.

*Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.*

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

*Stop into Porto’s beau*tiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16^th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself. A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it.

*Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.*

Shop ’til You Drop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha.

*Busy Rua Catarina is Porto’s main shopping thoroughfare and is limited to pedestrian traffic.*

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

*The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for cof*fee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao. This is the place to pick up picnic provisions. If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal.

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal. Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

*The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.*

Buskers, Bars, and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching. We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

*The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.*

*Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.*

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira. We took an hour- long cruise. It was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day. When we went there was no need to book ahead. Boats run regularly and a number of companies offer the same rides at the same prices. We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go.

*A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.*

*Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.*

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here. Prices are typically low, but shop around various stalls.

*Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.*

*Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?*

If You Go

You will not want a car in Porto. Parking is nonexistent and driving is a contact sport. Public transportation is more than adequate and this is a very walkable city. Be aware it is hilly and cobbled, but easy to get around.

Eurostars Modern Convenience

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.

*Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.*

*We only made tea, but the kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.*

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata. The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here. We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff was incredibly helpful.

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service. Shirts were about 7 Euro. This was important for us since we rarely check luggage. There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare. There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

*We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the riv*er *from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.*

Infante Sagres Old World Charm

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto. After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

*Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.*

*Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.*

*A comfortable bed in a blissfully qui*et *room was just what we needed after a very long day.*

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness.

*The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.*

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Adventures in Fatima and a Day in the Douro Valley

There are two things travelers must bring along on every trip—a sense of humor and resilience, because sometimes, maybe even often, things do not go to plan. That’s where a sense of humor comes in handy. This was the case one Sunday in Portugal on what was to be our longest driving day– from Evora in the Alentejo, to the mountains above the Douro River in the north of Portugal, with a stop at the Shrine of Fatima. I had wanted to visit Fatima for a long time and since it was right off the freeway, we thought this was a perfect plan.

It was time to leave the beautiful Alentejo in Portugal’s southwest and head north to the Douro Valley.

We did not get an early start, which is no surprise to anyone who knows us, but instead enjoyed a delicious, and leisurely, last breakfast at Convento do Espinheiro before setting off for the Douro Valley.

Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million pilgrims.

Imagine our surprise when two and half hours hours later we turned off the freeway heading for Fatima and were greeted by plenty of police and even more motorcyclists– thousands of them. Many of the roads leading to the Shrine were closed and everywhere we looked there were motorcyclists—young, old, families, even dogs—all on two wheels.

Apparently everyone in Portugal, with the notable exception of these two visiting Americans, knew there was a special mass for motorcyclists that day at the Shrine of Fatima. After spending about an hour in the traffic jam, we realized there was no possible way we could visit that day. We very sensibly decided to come back on a weekday on our return to Lisbon. I wish I had taken photos of all those motorcyclists but didn’t want to risk offending anyone and there was no possibility of a speedy getaway. On our return visit, things were decidedly quieter.

On Oct. 13 each year nearly hundreds of thousands crowd this immense plaza to celebrate the anniversary of the apparition. On the day we visited, a week after our first attempt, there were very few visitors.

Turns out the plaza at Fatima between the basilica and the chapel can accommodate 1 million people– as it did when Pope John Paul II visited in 1987—and we imagined that nearly as many motorcyclists had made the pilgrimage that Sunday morning, too.

The open air Chapel of the Apparition was built on the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to the children.

Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million people. When we returned on a Tuesday afternoon a week later, there were no motorcyclists in sight and relatively few visitors. It could have been the 114 degree heat that kept people away.

Many visitors light candles at the shrine and pray for intentions and interventions.

We visited the beautiful basilica and the Chapel of the Apparition where nuns recited the rosary in numerous languages. We also took the time to light a few candles, which were available for sale at the shop and ranged in size from standard to enormous. Some were bigger than my arm!

There is a full schedule of masses, reciting the rosary and confessions offered every day.

It was so terribly hot, and since there was no shade on the plaza, we chose not to cross it to see the enormous rosaries and crucifix on the other side. That will have to wait for another visit. But now, back to our journey to the beautiful Douro Valley—

We enjoyed the drive from the Alentejo in the south to the Douro Valley in the north of Portugal. Be sure your rental car comes equipped with the Portuguese version of the Fast Pass.

Back to the freeway and on to our pousada we went, over winding mountain roads and bridges, through tunnels, and burned out forested areas. The main roads in Portugal are well- paved and well-marked. Smaller side roads are a little bit trickier, but we never had trouble finding our way even out in the countryside. We ate our picnic lunch in the car to save time and arrived in Alijo about three and a half hours later. It had been a long day.

Scenic mountain roads took us north to the vineyards of the Douro Valley.

When we finally arrived at the Palacete Alijo, the first thing we noticed was the laundry hanging out to dry on the balconies. Inside, the pousada didn’t come close to living up to the photos we’d seen online. Perhaps someone had carefully cropped out the propane tanks next door and the rust marks surrounding the pool.

Sadly, this pousada in Alijo didn’t live up to expectations and we left without staying.

The website’s images didn’t deliver an accurate portrayal of the property. This was the view from the room we were meant to have.

The website indicated the place was part of the well-respected Pestana Group. The friendly front desk clerk told us that it hadn’t been for nearly five years and offered us a “welcome” drink. He also mentioned that the air conditioner was broken, brought up a few other housekeeping issues and again offered a welcome drink. We had planned to stay for four nights but after seeing the accommodations, we turned down the drink and summoned up Trip Advisor on our phones.

This was the splendid view across the river to Pesa de Regua from our room at the Vila Gale Douro.

Vila Gale (a hotel group popular in Portugal and Spain) had a river view room available for two nights in the town of Peso de Regua, right on the Douro River. Back to the car we went, grateful we hadn’t brought our bags inside—we never do until after we’ve seen the room. After another hour of driving, this time in the dark through the winding mountain roads, and did I mention it was raining?—we arrived at the Vila Gale Douro.

The Vila Gale Douro, part of a popular group of hotels in Portugal and Spain, is well- located across the river from Peso de Regua.

While my husband parked the rental car in the garage, I went to the hotel’s restaurant to secure a table before they closed. It was 10:30 p.m. at this point and we were really hungry. I thought I was imagining things when I my heard my name called out and turned to find two dear friends from home finishing their dinners. Had we not changed our hotel, we would never have had the chance to spend time with them. We agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning.

Our Vila Gale room was large, comfortable and contemporary and had terrific views from the private balcony.

It was lovely to wake up to this beautiful view from our balcony.

Portuguese wine aficionados know that the steep terraced hillsides of the Douro Valley are home to numerous well-regarded producers of table wines and of course, port. Our friends were free in the morning but had to return to Porto in the afternoon. We agreed that a visit to a nearby winery would be the perfect outing.

We spent a fun and informative morning with our friends at Quinta do Vallado.

Grapes grow seemingly everywhere on the Douro Valley’s steep hillsides.

Like the wineries in the Alentejo, you must make reservations to tour and taste in the Douro Valley. My husband had his heart set on a visit to Quinta do Vallado but when he telephoned, was told that the morning’s English- speaking tour was already full. With the help of our front desk clerk, we secured four spots.

Quinta do Vallado is a highly regarded producer of Douro wines and port. They also have a small hotel on property.

The winery is located high up on the terraced hillside across the river from where we were staying, just about a 10- minute drive away. One of the oldest in the Douro Valley, the winery celebrated its 300^th anniversary in 2016. Once owned by Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira (of the Ferreira Port family), production was geared towards port for the company’s first 200 plus years. In 1993, they decided to restructure and expand into producing Quinta do Vallado label table wines and in 2009 construction on the new winery was completed.

Our tour began in the vineyards where some grapes had already been harvested.

We followed our guide from the vineyards, through the production facilities, and into the cellars, as she explained each stage of wine making to the group in English. Tours are also given in Portuguese several times daily. We always ask if English tours are available, though rather than miss out, we’ve taken some in Italian, French and Portuguese at numerous places.

Our knowledgeable tour guide explained the wine making process in detail– and in English.

We saw everything from the grapes growing, to high tech, temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, to the traditional granite legares in which grapes are crushed by foot, to the cellars where the barrels are stored and wines are aged before they’re bottled.

We saw state of the art temperature controlled stainless steel tanks…

…and traditional granite legares where grapes for port are crushed by foot.

Antique barriques are still in use.

New French oak barrels are also used, depending on the kind of wine they’re aging.

After the very informative tour, we all gathered around a communal table and tasted Quinta do Vallado’s wonderful wines, working our way from crisp whites to delicious ports. Many of us made purchases in the quinta’s well-stocked shop.

After our tour we gathered around for a wonderful wine tasting.

During the tasting, we sampled crisp whites, full-bodied reds and finally, ports.

The well-stocked shop beckoned many of the visitors, including our friends and ourselves.

Though we were not able to tour it, Quinta do Vallado has a small hotel on property with 13 rooms—five in the manor house built in 1733, and eight in the modern wing constructed in 2012.

The roads in the Douro are narrow and winding but exceptionally scenic.

There were two things we planned to do in the Douro—wine taste and take a boat ride. After saying goodbye to our friends at the winery, we headed to Pinhao to check out the river cruise options.

The Douro has been used to transport people, port and other products down river to Porto for centuries.

The Douro River meanders from Spain through the heart of northern Portugal down to Porto where it empties into the sea. For centuries, port wine has been transported by boat down river to the city that shares its name with the wine. Day trippers from Porto, cruise boats from lines like AmaWaterways and Viking, private pleasure craft, and charter boats large and small ply the waters of the Douro River. Getting out on the river sounded like a perfect plan on that hot day.

Tourism is big business in the small town of Pinhao.

Pinhao is a small town seemingly fully committed to the tourist trade. There are souvenir shops everywhere and numerous choices for boat rides on the river. A one-hour ride was 10 euro from any of the vendors. We chose our boat based on schedule. They all come and go from the same place and follow a similar route.

River boats all leave from the same place and follow similar routes. Schedules differ but pricing does not. 10 Euro is typical for a one-hour boat ride.

Once aboard, you’ll learn all about the port trade and see many well-known names as you pass by the quintas. We had a delightful time and enjoyed chatting with newlyweds from the Netherlands and a Spanish couple. It was a relaxing and informative hour that passed in a heartbeat. We wished we’d opted for a longer ride.

Our convivial group included newlyweds from the Netherlands and a couple from Spain.

Bridges large and small cross the Douro.

Hillsides, which reminded us of California, are dotted with wineries.

You’ll see quintas with familiar names like Croft along with others that have been producing wine for centuries here.

Our journey was so peaceful and enjoyable we wished we’d booked a longer trip. Next time!

After our boat ride, we walked over to the historic Pinhao train station, which has been in service since 1880. The station is notable for its lovely azulejos—the blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous.

Trains have been transporting travelers to and from the Pinhao station since 1880.

The station is known for its azulejos– the stunning blue and white tiles famous throughout Portugal.

These particular azulejos tell the story of the port trade in 25 large panels that were installed in 1937. There is also a café and shop in the station perfect for a coffee, glass of wine or edible souvenirs.

Pinhao’s 25 panels tell the story of the port trade.

The azulejos were installed in 1937.

The shop inside the station is a pleasant place for a coffee, glass of wine or a snack.

After a leisurely stroll through town and a stop for ice cream and souvenir shopping, we headed back to Pesa de Regua and dinner.

This former industrial building has a new life as home to shops and restaurants.

Just across the bridge from our hotel is a renovated industrial building on R. Jose de Vasques that now houses several restaurants and shops.

Picnic provisions and edible souvenirs are available here.

The contemporary dining room at Castas e Pratos was full on the Monday night we ate here.

We browsed a bit and then headed to Castas e Pratos for our meal. Part wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant, the place was buzzing when we arrived. We were glad we had a reservation upstairs in the airy and modern dining room.

Our starter was a plate of succulent scallops in a rich pea puree.

The tender veal medallions in roquefort sauce was served with a delicious wild mushroom risotto.

Larger parties were sharing dishes like this “Duck Rice”– a local specialty. It looked and smelled divine.

The menu has something for most tastes and includes fish, meat and vegetarian options.

Wines from all over Portugal were featured on the extensive wine list.

We started with a refreshing sparkling rose and ended with a nice tawny port.

Castas e Pratos has an extensive wine list featuring wines from the Douro and as well as all of the other wine producing areas of Portugal. Service was attentive and friendly and we enjoyed every bite of our meal from the scallop starter through desert. Happy and full, we returned to the Vila Gale to plan our next day’s adventure.

Lisbon’s Beautiful Belem

The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.

There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.

Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belem was the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.

The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.

Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimos and its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.

St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.

The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.

Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.

Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.

We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.

Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.

Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.

The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.

Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.

This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.

The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.

After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.

This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.

In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.

You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…

Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.

This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!

Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.

If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.

We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.

Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.

We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.

The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.

The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.

Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.

This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!

Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.

When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.

We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.

Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.

Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500^th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.

The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.

Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.

There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.

On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!

Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.

Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.

We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright laws.

Evora: The Alentejo’s Capital City

The Vasco da Gama bridge led us away from lively Lisbon to the rural beauty of the Alentejo.

An easy 90- minute drive southeast of Lisbon takes you to the expansive Alentejo region. Home to medieval villages, castles, palaces, pousadas, megaliths, wine producers, and vast agricultural lands, this beautiful area has something to please nearly all visitors. We made Evora, the capital of the region, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our headquarters. This delightful small city is a great base from which to launch day trips to the many attractions in the area.

The Alentejo’s capital city is best explored on foot– wearing comfortable shoes, of course.

Remember to look up as you wander!

The historic city of Evora has interesting sites and several museums to explore. Just walking the winding streets is a fine way to spend a day, especially in the area around the Largo Conde de Vila Flor. After a pleasant stroll through the Praca do Giraldo, Evora’s bustling main square, we considered our options.

The busy Praca do Giraldo is at the heart of the city. Numerous shopping streets fan off from the Praca.

Cork is king in the Alentejo and is featured in souvenirs from sandals to handbags.

Portuguese pottery is also a popular souvenir.

Time was short so we had to make choices. We decided to save the Contemporary Art Museum for our next visit and headed over to the Museum of Evora, which was hosting a Chinese porcelain exhibition along with its permanent collections.

The Museum of Evora is housed in a former Episcopal palace built in the 17th century.

Beautiful Azulejos tiles line the stone staircase inside the museum.

Teapots, serving pieces, jewelry and other treasures from China are featured in the current exhibition at the museum.

Placards describe the fine Chinese porcelain plates on display in Portuguese and English.

The museum features paintings from the 15^th through 19^th centuries, drawings, engravings, 17^th and 18^th century furniture, and Roman sculpture from the 1^st and 2^nd centuries.

The museum is known for it’s 17th and 18th century painting and sculpture. This piece is by Antonio Teixeira Lopes.

Religious articles, like St. Blaise’s arm reliquary from the 17th century, are part of the permanent collection.

Visitors can see this striking bronze sculpture, statuary, mosaics and other artifacts from the Roman era.

Interesting archeological finds from the Neolithic Age and a collection of silver and gold religious pieces, and jewelry are also on display. There were few visitors on the day we were there.

Antiquities from numerous ancient civilizations are on view.

Artifacts from the Roman era line a courtyard hallway.

Just outside the museum is the Roman Temple from the 1^st century AD. Today, the ruins are undergoing restoration and are under wraps, but it is possible to see several of the Corinthian columns.

The Roman Temple which dates from the 1st century is mentioned in all the guide books, but until the restoration is complete, there isn’t much to see.

There is a small park behind the temple that offers nice views over the area beyond Evora and across the way you’ll find a lovely pousada, once a monastery that is now an upmarket hotel called Pousada dos Loios. Feel free to wander inside and take a step back into Portugal’s past. The restaurant here is open to the public.

Here’s a peek at the courtyard and restaurant at Pousada dos Loios.

This small park behind the Roman Temple provided a nice place to relax and enjoy the views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Many people line up at Evora’s Church of St. Francis to visit the Chapel of the Bones or Capela dos Ossis. The 16^th century chapel displays the bones and skulls of monks. We’ve seen the creepy Capuchin Crypt in Rome so felt no need to stop in after our visit to the church. The public gardens beside the church were much more appealing.

Inside the Church of St. Francis.

The Chapel of the Bones is a popular tourist attraction inside the Church of St. Francis.

If you have time, stop into Evora’s Cathedral or Se. It’s one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Southern Portugal and is said to be built on the site of a former mosque.

Here are the marvelously mismatched spires of Evora’s cathedral.

Close to the Church of St. Francis, you’ll find Evora’s morning market. The market is indoors and was smaller than some we’ve visited, but we also arrived fairly late in the morning after many of the vendors had closed up shop. Happily, there were several purveyors of tasty cheeses, cured meats, and fruits and vegetables still open.

Many vendors had already packed up and gone home by the time we arrived at the market but there was still plenty to choose from.

Everything you need for a nice picnic is right here–local pork products, sheep and goat’s milk cheeses and other tasty treats.

Evora has lodging options to fit many budgets and preferences. We chose to stay at two very different, but both delightful properties in and near the city. We began our stay at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario, just inside the walls of the city [email protected].

We enjoyed our stay at the small, well-located Albergaria do Calvario.

Located just inside the ancient Roman walls, it was easy to walk all around the city and access the freeway quickly for daytrips from our hotel.

The location made it easy to walk to Evora’s important sites as well as to dinner each evening. It was also convenient to reach the freeway for our day trips further afield. We’ll discuss dining and day trips in additional posts.

The comfortable bar area welcomes guests for drinks and light bites.

Ours was a large, comfortable room with a big balcony overlooking the hotel’s courtyard where many guests enjoyed breakfast, aperitifs, and conversation. Rooms vary substantially in size so be sure to explore your options when booking.

Our room was large and bright with a huge balcony overlooking the courtyard.

The marble used here is mined nearby. There is a Museum of Marble in Vila VIcosa we”ll visit next time.

There is no restaurant per se in the hotel, but they do provide a substantial breakfast buffet and have small meals, snacks, and drinks on offer in the bar. Anything ordered can be enjoyed in the courtyard, the bar area or one of the comfortable sitting areas.

This is just a small part of the bountiful buffet breakfast greeting guests each morning.

The courtyard provides a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast, drinks, or just relax.

Friendly staff are happy to help with restaurant bookings, excursion ideas or whatever you need to make your stay memorable.

The staff is extremely helpful and will even park and retrieve your car for you. Parking is available onsite at no additional charge. Laundry service is also available at a very reasonable price. The only thing we missed at this charming, small hotel was a pool, but we got that at our next hotel–Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa.

Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro.

We also spent several nights about 15 kilometers outside of Evora at the stunning Convento do Espinheiro. The converted convent was built in 1458 and when we stayed, was part of the Luxury Collection group managed by www.starwood.com. The property has traditional rooms in the original buildings as well as two modern wings.

We had a large room in the modern wing of the hotel, complete with a nice balcony.

We enjoyed our stay in the modern wing where we had a very large room with a balcony and views over the property towards to the inviting swimming pool. After nearly 10 days of non-stop touring it was the perfect place to take break.

The pool provided the perfect place for relaxation, lunch, drinks and a refreshing dip.

There is also an indoor pool and a nice spa on site where I enjoyed a relaxing massage. There are tours given daily of the expansive Convento which covers the property’s fascinating history.

Ancient olive trees dot the property which dates back to 1458.

These stone benches have been here since the property was a functioning convent.

There is no charge for the tour, which includes a visit to the beautiful church (still in use), monk’s cistern where a complimentary wine tasting is held each evening, the former dining area and kitchen, as well as the vaulted storage cellar which now houses the hotel’s terrific restaurant.

Convento do Espinheiro was one of the three wealthiest convents in Portugal. The church is still in use today.

The bells, one original, ring out to announce a wedding has taken place.

The wine cellar is housed in the monk’s former cistern, which was once filled with water.

A complimentary wine tasting take place each evening at 6 p.m. in the wine cellar.

We ate dinner there each night of our stay. The food is artfully prepared and beautifully presented by top-notch staff. Be sure to reserve for dinner or prepare to be disappointed—the dining room fills up. Should you choose to go offsite for your dinner and prefer not to drive, the helpful staff can arrange for a taxi into Evora.

Fresh local fish elegantly prepared is served with flair.

Luscious lamb chops with squash puree are featured on the menu.

Save room for dessert.

Where monks once stored their wine, olive oil and honey, hotel guests now enjoy a bountiful breakfast buffet. It is possible to enjoy your morning repast out on one of the terraces or in the courtyard area, as we did.

The former storage for olive oil, wine and honey, now serves as the hotel’s elegant dining room.

We also arranged to see some of the traditional rooms including the “royal suite” used by many honeymoon couples. It is truly spectacular in a beautiful old-world way and features a contemporary bathroom and private rooftop terrace.

The “royal suite” often used by honeymooners offers old world charm and opulence.

The suite’s bathroom features modern fixtures like this free standing tub.

A private rooftop terrace, one flight up from the suite provides glorious views of the area around the Convento.

If your travel plans include a trip to Portugal, don’t miss the beautiful Alentejo. We’re looking forward to our return to this fascinating area.

Three Scoops: Where to Find the Best Gelato in Florence

After a long day of touring, or in the middle of a long day of touring, or just because you’re in Italy, in the beautiful city of Florence, you’ll want gelato. Even if it’s wintertime. Avoid the places with the big puffy gelato displays and colors not often seen in nature. Look for signs that say gelateria artigianale, naturale, or biologico. Go for gelaterias that keep the ice cream in stainless containers—covered stainless containers are even better.

Covered stainless steel containers keep gelato fresh and flavorful. Daily flavors will be listed on signs along with prices.

All the available flavors will be written on a sign and you already know what fragola (aka strawberry) looks like. We love that you can choose two or more flavors even for small cones or cups, so experiment with any flavor combination you fancy. Go wild! If someone behind the counter asks, “Panna?” Just say “Si” and your cono will be topped with delicious fresh whipped cream, often at no extra charge. Feel free to indulge.

To make your gelato even more satisfying, say yes to panna montata– fresh whipped cream often offered gratis– free!

In Florence, some say Perche No! www.percheno.firenze.it can’t be beat. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in the city, serving it forth since 1939. It is good, really good, so if you’re in the city center you should definitely stop in for a cone.

Many of the best gelaterias have lines, but they go quickly. It is worth waiting at places like La Carraia.

Often touted as the best in town, La Carraia www.lacarraiagroup.eu , with two shops in Florence, is branching out and opening a store in Rome, too. We like their gelateria on the Altro Arno just over the bridge of the same name. This is a line worth standing on– and there is always a line. They also have scrumptious looking cakes and other tempting confections but we single-mindedly stick to the gelato.

You can choose at least two flavors even on small cones.

It’s hard not to be happy with a cone in your hand.

Our little apartment’s location by the Duomo caused us to walk by Edoardo daily. www.edoardobio.it We don’t resist temptation often or easily so had ample opportunity to sample their delicious gelato. Just grab a number by the door and peruse the list of daily flavors while you inhale the intoxicating aroma of their handmade cones. Don’t worry–the line goes quickly.

Grab a number and enjoy the heady aroma of fresh baked cones while you wait at Edoardo.

This is what delicious looks like. Chocolate with chili (cioccolato con peperoncino) and cinnamon (cannella) are two of my favorite flavors.

Grom www.grom.it was the first of the “all natural” gelato we enjoyed many years ago and it’s still delicious. The company began in Torino and now you’ll find them in cities across Italy, including Florence, and around the world from New York to Jakarta. They even have an outpost in Los Angeles now.

Grom is in cities throughout Italy and worldwide.

Gelato preferences are personal, of course, so go explore. Find your favorites and please share your discoveries with us.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright Laws.

Everything You Need to Know About Florence’s Famous Duomo: Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo

Florence’s Il Grande Museo del’Opera del Duomo has nothing at all to do with opera. Instead, it is all about the work, or opera, involved in building, preserving and maintaining one of the most recognizable Renaissance buildings in the world—Florence’s Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.

A spectacular view of Brunelleschi’s dome from Caffe La Terrazza.

If you’ve ever wanted to see how Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome was constructed, learn what the other options were for the Duomo’s facade, or see the remarkable art treasures once housed in the cathedral, this is the place to come.

Welcome to the recently reopened and reimagined Museo del’Opera del Duomo.

Soaring galleries give visitors a new perspective on the superb sculpture on display at the museum.

Re-opened in October 2015 after years of restoration and reconstruction, the Museo dell’ Opera del Duomo has an exquisite collection of sculpture, paintings and other masterworks displayed on three floors in 6,000 square meters of exhibit space, all designed to showcase the art to its best visual and historical advantage.

A visitor gets an up close look at a statue in the museum.

Most of the works were at one time in, or outside the Duomo.

These sculptures once graced niches in Giotto’s bell tower.

Some of the treasures to be found include the original North Doors created by Lorenzo Ghiberti for the Baptistry of San Giovanni along with the Doors of Paradise by Lorenzo and Vittorio Ghiberti. Replicas now hang on the Baptistry.

Ghiberti’s stunning Doors of Paradise and North Door once graced the Baptistry of San Giovanni but can now be found inside the museum.

Detail of door.

In all, the museum boasts 750 works of art covering 720 years of history.

Arnolfo di Cambio’s stunning Christ with the Soul of Mary

This exquisite silver alter features scenes from the life of John the Baptist and was created by Lorenzo Ghiberti, Betto di Geri, Bernardo Cennini, Antonio di Salvi, Francesco and Leonardo di Giovanni, Antonio del Pollaiolo and Andrea del Verrocchio.

Michelangelo’s poignant pieta, sculpture by Donatello including his magnificent Mary Magdalene as Penitent, and works by Andrea Pisano, Antonio Pollaiolo, Arnolfo di Cambio and other highly regarded Medieval and Renaissance artists are on display.

Michelangelo sculpted this pieta for his own tomb. He later destroyed it. It was reconstructed and acquired by Cosimo de Medici In 1671 and placed in the Duomo in 1722. It was the next to last sculpture Michelangelo ever created.

Donatello’s Mary Magdalene as Penitent draws many visitors.

Sacred items and iconography are part of the museum’s extensive collection.

In the Cappella Musicale, or music gallery, you will hear enchanting sacred music, and find works by Luca della Robbia and others, as well as rare illuminated music books.

Beautiful music fills this gallery where rare illustrated books, sacred objects and art treasures are displayed.

Brunelleschi’s dome, still considered a marvel of engineering, remains one of Florence’s most iconic monuments.

Models of Brunelleschi’s dome show how it was built and why it remains an engineering marvel.

In addition to the art treasures, the museum contains original building materials, equipment and tools, dating back to the Duomo’s 15^th century construction.

Wooden pulleys, ropes and other original construction equipment used to build the Duomo can be seen at the museum.

Original 15th century tools and equipment used to build the Duomo are displayed near a continuously running film that explores the design and construction.

Also featured are drawings and models of the dome and Giotto’s bell tower, which was begun in 1334, after Giotto’s death. An outdoor terrace offers splendid views of the dome.

Brunelleschi’s wooden model of the dome fascinates visitors.

A detailed model of the bell tower designed by Giotto is on display near beautiful stained glass windows created by notables including Ghiberti, Donatello, Paolo Uccelli and Andrea del Castagno.

Visitors to the museum will learn about the history of this spectacular cathedral, designed by Arnolfo di Cambio and dedicated in 1412. The name Santa Maria del Fiore means St. Mary of the Flowers or Virgin of the Flowers. Once the largest church in all of Europe, today it is third in size, after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral.

A film called Courage to Dare about Florence during the Renaissance and the creation and construction of the Duomo runs continuously in the museum.

A number of possibilities considered for the Duomo’s facade are on display, including this one.

Combination tickets can be purchased for the Duomo Museum, the Baptistery, the bell tower and the Crypt of Santa Reparta, named for the 7^th century church that once stood on the site of the Duomo. There is no charge to enter the Duomo, but paid tickets are required for visitors who wish to climb the more than 400 steps to the top of the bell tower.

The Baptistry of San Giovanni always draws crowds. Tickets are required to enter.

Appropriate clothing is essential for entry. In other words, no shorts, short skirts or skimpy, shoulder baring tops on women or men. Bulky bags and backpacks must be checked. Visit www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it for information on ticket prices, hours and tours.

Admission to the Duomo is free but take care to dress appropriately or you will be denied entry.

On our visit, we also had free access to a photographic exhibition called Opera di Viva by Michele Pecchioli, which paid tribute to the hundreds of men and women who have worked to preserve the artistic integrity and cultural heritage of the building and the art works within for more than 700 years.

Michele Pecchioli’s photographs pay tribute to the men and women who restore and preserve the art and cultural heritage of Florence’s iconic Duomo.

The photos feature the restorers, artists, employees and security guards who play a role in safeguarding these treasurers and ensuring public access to the works for years to come. Note: This was a temporary exhibition and may now longer be available for viewing.

A close up of a security guard charged with safeguarding the priceless treasures at the Duomo and its museum.

When the sun begins to set in Florence, head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for another perspective on the Duomo —and enjoy the gorgeous vista across the Arno over the city.

Some of the most spectacular views of Florence can be had from the Piazzale Michelangelo. Don’t miss a visit to the beautiful San Miniato al Monte across the street. It’s the oldest church in Florence, after the Baptistry.

Florence’s Duomo viewed from Piazzale Michelangelo.

The department store La Rinescente has a terrace restaurant with fine views of the Duomo, as well as drinks and light fare.

If you crave an aperitivo with your sunset and Duomo views, go to La Rinascente, the department store on Piazza Repubblica. Go directly up to La Terrazza on the top floor and you’ll find a little rooftop café/bar with great views of the city and the iconic dome. It gets crowded so get there early or be prepared to wait.

Sensational sunset view over the Piazza della Repubblica from Caffe La Terrazza.

Cin Cin!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright Laws.

Want a Quick Bite? Try Florence’s Mercato Centrale

Craving a cappucino and a cornetto? Need a bouquet of fresh flowers or picnic provisions? How about fresh pasta to enjoy at home? Or maybe you’re just in the mood for pizza and a beer? Florence’s Central Market or Mercato Centrale Firenze is Florence’s answer to foodie heaven. Housed in a historic building originally erected in 1847, and open from 10 a.m. to midnight, this is the place to go.

Pick up picnic provisions like salami, cheeses, prosciutto and more at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

Fresh pastas and delicious sauces to go with them make a tasty and quick meal that’s easy to prepare in your vacation rental.

The market on the ground floor is fun to explore with every kind of seasonal produce, pastas, sauces, meats, cheeses, and flowers. Anything you could want that’s fresh and in season is right here.

The Mercato Centrale has a bounty of seasonal produce, herbs and fresh flowers.

Upstairs at the Mercato Centrale is one of our favorite stops for for lunch, though you can also have breakfast, snacks, sweets, drinks and dinner here.

Neapolitan-style pizza is done right at La Pizzeria Sud.

Go get some terrific Neapolitan style pizza at Pizzeria Sud. You can take your slices to one of the communal tables or go upstairs for table service. We opted for the former and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the place.

Lunch is ready!

There are lots of tasty options– pasta, panini, cheese and meat platters, fish, pizza, even burgers and fried chicken to choose from. There is also a coffee bar, wine, beer, pastries, gelato and delicious desserts–something to please most any palate.

Choose your favorite foods from the array of vendors upstairs at the market and grab a seat at the communal tables. Mangia!

Everything on offer here from the hamburgers made from Chianina beef at La Toraia di Enrico Lagorio, the pasta from Raimondo Mendolia, Maurizio e Poala Rosellini’s fresh fish, the bufala mozzarella, beautiful baked goods, chocolates and gelato are all of the highest quality.

A great selection of fresh or aged cheeses to eat now or enjoy later are readily available.

If you’re looking to really splash out, try these fragrant truffles.

If your tastes run more to fried foods, you’re in luck.

We even sampled the trippa fritta—fried tripe, a Florentine favorite, though not to my taste.

Trippa fritta is a Florentine favorite.

After lunch (or dinner), you’ll probably want coffee and something sweet. Please remember that no self-respecting Italian would even consider ordering a cappuccino, latte or similar milky coffee drink after breakfast hours. Stick to the espresso. Ask for a caffe lungo if you miss your American coffee. Desserts are in abundance here and include gelato, pastries, cookies, and cannoli, which are stuffed while you wait—as they should be. Crushed pistachios on the ends are optional.

These confections look almost too good to eat. Almost…

Upstairs is also where you’ll find Eataly, which features Italian grocery items, household goods, personal care items and my favorite Florentine soaps from Nesti Dante. You’ll also find a wine shop specializing in Chianti Classico selections, a cooking school, a bancomat (ATM) and public restrooms which are in short supply in many cities like Florence.

If you’re looking for Italian wines, particularly those from the Chianti Classico region, you’ve come to the right place.

Students pay rapt attention at the Lorenzo de Medici Cooking School upstairs at the Mercato Centrale.

If you feel the need for yet more shopping, there are also stalls outside the building on the surrounding streets with scarfs, leather items, and souvenirs—all the typical Florentine goods you’d expect to find.

Shoppers can find everything from dry pasta to Pinocchio at the market and stalls outside.

Buon apetito and happy shopping!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright Laws.

Puppets in Palermo—A Stopover in Sicily’s Biggest City

Welcome to Palermo.

We took a drive right up the center of Sicily on SS624 to reach Palermo. The ride is scenic, beautiful and pretty straightforward. As you approach, you’ll be greeted with breathtaking views of the city sprawl and the bay—bellissimo!

Palermo is Sicily’s capital city and it’s most populous. Its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture, cultural attractions, and incredible cuisine draw visitors from around the world.

Palermo is the largest and busiest city in Sicily and has plenty to offer the visitor looking for a bustling urban experience. We had less than two full days in Palermo and there is far more to see and do than we had time for.

The simple facade of Monreale Cathedral gives no indication of the superb golden mosaics inside this “must see” church.

Let your first stop in Palermo be a visit to Monreale Cathedral. This stunning cathedral has golden mosaics that rival, and some say surpass, those at Venice’s Basilica San Marco (St. Mark’s). This is truly a spectacular church, considered to be the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily, and should not be missed. The somewhat plain façade belies the beauty that awaits inside.

The breathtaking golden mosaics inside Monreale Cathedral rival those at St. Mark’s (San Marco) Basilica in Venice.

Narrow, busy streets and overcrowding make parking a challenge in Palermo and the area surrounding the cathedral is no exception. There is a well-marked, supervised pay parking garage just down the road from the cathedral. Walk carefully along the alley- like street back up to the church.

The clear message here is: Do not park in front of this garage. Parking is always tricky in Palermo. When in doubt, find a pay lot.

After enjoying the splendor of the cathedral, we had a terrific lunch at Bricco e Bacco Brasserie, just kitty corner from the cathedral. It was a lovely place with good, local specialties and friendly service. Since we arrived after the lunch crowd, it was also quiet. You’ll find the restaurant at Via B. D’Aquisto, 13, Monreale, Phone for a reservation +39 091 641 7773. It’s a popular spot.

Driving in Palermo can be a harrowing experience and is not for the faint hearted.

Wind your way down into the city proper, navigating traffic carefully. All bets are off in Palermo and traffic can be heavy. Stop signs seem to be a mere suggestion and traffic signals are also sometimes ignored.

Farm fresh fruits and vegetables are sold at stands throughout the city. Be aware that in Sicily, what we call broccoli is cauliflower here.

Street markets like this one, selling clothing, dry goods, kitchen wares and other necessities can be found throughout Palermo. Ask for a “piccolo sconto”– a discount. Bargaining is part of the fun.

We really enjoyed walking all around the city to get the flavor of it and to get our bearings on our first visit. We covered a lot of ground, including the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel, which is Palermo’s “high street.” Here you’ll find upscale shops and stylish boutiques, cafes and bars. Palermo also has numerous street markets with household necessities, clothing and dry goods, fruit stands, and food stalls, including the well known Vucciria and Ballaro markets.

Hands down, our favorite cultural institution in Palermo was the Museo Internazionale delle Marrionette. Yes, it is a puppet museum and far more compelling than you might expect. Sicily has a strong tradition of puppetry used for both entertainment and political commentary dating back centuries.

In addition to providing entertainment, puppet shows were often used to express political and social view points, particularly when the literacy rate was low.

Plan to spend at least a few hours enjoying the expansive collection and exhibits at the International Museum of Puppetry.

The museum’s collection includes more than 3,000 puppets of all kinds from around the world.

Marionette soldiers in full armament along with their battle- ready horses are on display in this large gallery.

The attention to detail and historical accuracy of the costumes is impressive.

They have puppets and marionettes from around the world, from the simplest paper puppets to the most elaborate marionettes. You’ll see everything from fairy princesses and dragons to entire armies dressed in armament from throughout the ages, all with remarkable attention to detail.

Even Laurel and Hardy make an appearance here.

You’ll find examples of puppets from the primitive to the extraordinarily elaborate.

Puppets from around the world including Africa, Indonesia and Japan are represented.

There are also a variety of settings and backdrops on view. We found our visit to the marionette museum to be an absolutely enchanting experience. The museum hosts puppet shows, too, of course.

Enjoy these fine examples of Japanese Bunraku puppets.

The museum often hosts puppet shows and has videos of productions on view.

For more information and show times, please visit www.museomarionettepalermo.it The museum is at the end of Via Butera on the Piazzetta Antonio Pasqualina, 5.

Known for its medieval art collection, the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia at Palazza Abatellis is a former palatial residence dating back to the 1490s, which went on to become a convent and then a monastery. It is now a regional gallery and museum.

Built for the Kingdom of Sicily’s Port Master, this fine former residence now houses an impressive collection of Medieval art and other treasures.

Here you will find sculptures, frescoes and paintings by Italian artists, as well as Flemish and other European masters, sacred art, weaponry and more.

Sculpture, paintings, religious art and more await visitors at the Palazzo Abatellis.

Though the building suffered terrible damage during Allied bombing raids in WWII, frescoes such as these from the 1400s survived.

Unfortunately the website has not been updated for some time so it is best to call the museum at +39 091 623 0011. It is located at Via Allora, 4.

To see how the upper class lived centuries ago, visit the Palazzo Mirto www.casemuseoitalia.it/en. The Palazzo Mirto is part of a network of “house museums” found throughout Italy. It was originally built for the Filangeri family in the mid 17^th century and falls into the ancestry category of homes.

The Palazzo Mirto provides a glimpse at the opulence the upper classes enjoyed during the time of the Kingdom of Sicily.

The palazzo is filled with beautifully appointed rooms featuring elaborate furnishings, ceramics, antique musical instruments, and art. One of the most spectacular is the Chinese Room, likely decorated in 1876 when the house was renovated.

The Chinese Room was the height of fashion when it was designed in the mid 1800s.

There are also classic carriages on display along with other historic treasures that paint a picture of Sicilian life for the upper class in the days before the Risorgimento when Sicily was still a kingdom.

Splendid furnishings and elegant porcelain are among the items on display at Palazzo Mirto.

The museum is located at Via Merlo, 2 and telephone is +39 091 616 4751 for updated information.

Enjoy a performance or take a guided tour– these are the only ways to get inside the magnificent Teatro Massimo.

If there is a performance at the Teatro Massimo, get a ticket and go. Regularly scheduled dance, opera, and classical music are all performed here. If you’re feeling flush, you, too, can rent the royal box —you just have to purchase all 27 seats in it.

The Teatro Massimo is known for its excellent acoustics and grand stage.

If time does not permit you to attend a performance, take a guided tour, which is the only other way to see the inside of this magnificent and historic building.

This beautiful and historic theater is among the largest in Europe.

A model of the theater is displayed in the lobby.

The theater boasts one of the largest stages in Europe and is worth seeing. Built in 1897, it is known for its outstanding acoustics and is still the largest theater in Italy with 1,300 seats. It is appropriately located on the Piazza Verdi. +39 091 6053580 www.teatromassimo.it.

The Politeama Garabaldi Theater hosts regular performances in Palermo’s historic city center.

We wanted to visit the highly regarded National Archeological Museum but it was closed for renovations during our visit. Please go to www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/salinas for current information.

A stroll through Sicily’s capital city yields surprises.

We did not visit the Catacombe dei Cappuccine, the home of about 8,000 dead bodies, amassed over the course of several hundred years, all dressed up and on display. We find the entire enterprise rather ghoulish and having seen the Capuccine Chapel in Rome, which features skeletons of dead monks, felt no obligation to see this seemingly far more ambitious enterprise. Apparently it is a popular place on many tourist itineraries and so we mention it here.

Flags fly outside the Porta Felice Hotel on the small but busy Via Butera.

There are lodgings at all price points and with all levels of service, as you would expect in a large city like Palermo. We stayed at Hotel Porta Felice www.hotelportafelice.it/en at Via Butera, 45. Tele. 091 6175678. This is in the old section of town near the port.

Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd the marina at the end of Via Butera.

Even though the hotel is on what appears to be a small side street, it is pretty busy. We were upgraded to a nice suite, even though we’d booked through www.venere.com. The location was very convenient and we walked everywhere we wanted to go, after turning in our rental car.

Friendly service and excellent Sicilian specialties await diners at L’Ottava Nota.

We only had two nights in Palermo and wound up having dinner both evenings just down the street from our hotel at L’Ottava Nota Ristorante, via Butera 55 091 6168601 www.ristoranteottavanota.it. The restaurant was small and lovely with fantastic food and great service. The fish dishes were all spectacular. Everything was fresh, artfully prepared and delicious.

Perfectly prepared pasta makes a delicious first course.

White fish in a light curry broth was a favorite.

Seafood dishes were the star attraction for us, but L’Ottova Nota has superb meat and vegetable dishes, too.

A fish in a light curry broth with vegetables was so good I still think about it, though it is no longer on the menu. We mentioned we were staying at the Porta Felice and were happily surprised to learn we’d get a 20 percent discount on our meal because we were guests there. We cannot confirm that the special pricing is still available but it never hurts to ask, should you dine here. The restaurant is just a few doors down from Porte Felice on Via Butera, 55. The telephone is +39 091 616 8601.

We had an excellent lunch at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli, www.trattoriapiccolonapoli.it. Piccolo Napoli had been recommended by an Italian friend in the wine business but apparently Anthony Bourdain had once dined here and the owner told us that lots of Americans had been showing up ever since. Our welcome was much more cordial when we told him (in Italian) that his friend Sasha had sent us! Try the panisse (chick pea fritters) to start and have any seafood you like—it is all super fresh and simply, but deliciously, prepared.

Snack on some panisse as you peruse the menu.

Simply but perfectly prepared pastas and seafood dishes shine at Piccolo Napoli.

Through a small window into the kitchen, we watched the chef toss a whole octopus into a pot, plate it and serve it to a young girl who devoured every bit. We had pasta with shellfish and then I had a beautiful swordfish dish. For dessert, they brought us the ubiquitous “winter melon.” The melon is sweet and refreshing and so called winter melon because it can be picked in the summer and stored throughout the winter. We saw it on menus throughout Sicily. The restaurant is on the Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4. Telephone is +39 091 320431.

Palermo is a fascinating and vibrant city and certainly worth a visit. We’ll be back.

Our final meal in Palermo was an extremely casual, but excellent pizza lunch at the airport, which we enjoyed out on the observation deck with a view of planes coming and going, and of course, the beautiful sea!

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