Family Fun

Greece: Discover the Magic of the Peloponnese Peninsula

Skip the sweltering summer heat and crazy crowds. Sunny skies, warm weather, wild flowers amidst the ancient ruins, and best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the country’s extraordinary sights make Spring the best time to travel to Greece. Our original plan was an April trip to the Greek islands. We were a month too early. Most island hotels weren’t even open yet so we chose a road trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula instead.

*We saw* *only pleasure craft in Nafplio’s beautiful harbor–several from as far away as Sweden and Wales.*

The Beautiful Seaside CIty You Probably Never Heard Of

Nafplio, Greece’s first capital city, is less than a two-hour drive from Athens. Though this charming seaside city is unfamiliar to many Americans, it’s a favorite weekend getaway for Athenians. A rich history, Venetian fort and castle, wonderful museums, and important archeological sites nearby, made it an easy choice to begin our Peloponnese adventure here.

*Sunday afternoons are perfect for a stroll and a leisurely lunch across from the Nafplio harbor.*

We chose a boutique hotel in a former sea captain’s home as our base– 3Sixty Hotel & Suites. The busy harbor, lined not with working boats, but luxury yachts and other pleasure craft, enticing shops, and open-air restaurants with fresh fish on offer, was a five-minute walk in one direction. Syntagma Square, the center of the historic old town with museums, beautiful churches and more restaurants and shops was five minutes the opposite way.

Historic Syntagma Square

*Syntagma Square is still the heart of the city. The Archeological Museum forms the Western wall of the square.*

Syntagma or Constitution Square, remains the center of public and political life in Nafplio and it was here that the citizenry rose up and demanded independence from the Ottoman Empire. There are monuments, plaques and a War Museum proudly proclaiming the important role Nafplio’s citizens played in Greece’s War of Independence throughout the city.

*You’ll find monuments to Greece’s War for Independence* all around Nafplio. The Palamidi Castle looms high above this one.

Archeological Museum

Standing in the center of the square you are surrounded by several of modern Greece’s most important buildings. There is a former mosque used as the country’s first Parliament. The homes of Greece’s first Governor, Ionnis Kapodisrias, and War of Independence hero Theodoros Koloktronis are here, too.

Nafplio’s Archeological Museum, a must-see in Nafplio is housed in a 1713 Venetian building that forms the Western side of the Square. It boasts exhibits that date back to the Paleolithic era.

*These figurines were discovered at the archeological site at Tiryns and date to 6th-5th century BC. They are part of the permanent collection at Nafplio’s Archeological Museum.*

The impressive building was originally meant as a warehouse for the Venetian fleet. Step inside and priceless antiquities await. The museum’s collections include include pottery, clay and bronze seals, and marble figurines, some more than 5,000 years old,

*This cache of 92 golden staters dates back to the early 3rd century BC.*

Clay hearths from 3,200-2,100 BC, stone and bone tools, jewelry, anthropomorphic clay figures, and some of the earliest handmade Neolithic clay vases are displayed, giving us a glimpse into what life was like back then.

*Ouch! You’ll find these iron reinforcements for sandals at the Nafplio Archeological Museum.*

While you’re in the historic center, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the pedestrian-only shopping streets. There are shops, restaurants, bakeries, and cafes to suit most tastes and budgets.

<img loading= — *After a stroll around town and some shopping, I always want ice cream. Here’s my favorite!*

A Murder in Church

Visit one of the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches. St. George’s Cathedral features both Byzantine and Venetian 16^th century architecture. Another noteworthy church is St. Spyridon on Odos Kapodisriou. The street was named for the first governor. Mr. Kapodisriou was murdered by political rivals on the threshold of the small church.

*Greece’s first governor met his untimely end at the hands of political rivals here at St. Spyradon.*

What the Conquerors Left Behind

Over the centuries the city was captured and ruled by Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Turks before Greece won independence in 1830. These conquerors have all left their mark on Nafplio’s culture, architecture and cuisine.

The Venetians

Responsible for two of Nafplio’s best known and most visible landmarks, the Venetians built the Bourtzi and Palamidi Castle. Both are open to the public. On arrival, you’ll see a small, fortified island in Nafplio’s harbor. Bourtzi means island fortress in Turkish, but it was originally named Castello dello Soglio by the Venetians who built it on the islet of St. Theodoroi in 1471 to protect the city and harbor from invading Ottomans. Take a 10-minute boat ride from the harbor to visit the Bourtzi. Extremely windy weather on the day we planned to visit kept us away.

The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece, looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks only one year after it was built, ending the Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio in 1715. The castle has spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim 999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light a candle.

Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below. Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the Castle is not accessible to mobility challenged visitors.

More to Explore

If you plan to spend several days in Nafplio and explore nearby archeological sites, buy the 20 Euro three-day combination ticket at Palamidi Castle or the Archeological Museum. It includes Mycenae Archeological Site and Museum, Byzantine Museum at Argolis (Argos), Tiryns Archeological Site, Nafplio Archeological Museum, Palamidi Castle and Asini Archeological site. We managed to see all except Asini.

Why Worry (Beads)?

*Greek worry beads, or komboloi, have been popular since the Ottomans ruled Nafplio.*

It’s common to see Greek men toying with a rhythmically clacking string of beads while they’re walking down the street, chatting with friends, dining, and pretty much anytime. These are komboloi or worry beads. Nafplio has a unique and interesting museum dedicated to them.

Komboloi Museum

Komboloi became popular during the Turkish occupation of Greece, but the use of beads for prayer, mediation, and to ward off evil can be traced to the 8^th century BC. Always strung in odd numbers, the beads are traditionally barrel shaped and made from amber, carnelian, horn, bone (buffalo and camel are popular) semi-precious stones, ivory or olive wood. Along with komboloi, the museum has a spectacular collection of beads dating from 1550 to 1950 including Muslim prayer beads brought back by the crusaders and converted to rosary beads, and Hindu and Buddhist meditation beads. No photos were allowed in the Museum.

Because Nafplio is so closely associated with komboloi, there are shops selling beads of varying quality everywhere. I liked Amber House at 12 Vos. Konstantinou, which carries locally crafted komboloi. Natural materials make the most satisfying sounds and are meant to sooth, owner Angelika told me. She had me hold several komboloi to find the most comfortable string and listen to the sounds the beads made before purchasing.

Tiryns and Hercules

*Wildflowers were blooming amidst the ruins everywhere we visited in the Peloponnesian Peninsula, like here at Tiryns.*

In 468 BC the ancient city of Tiryns was sacked by neighboring Argos. Today, wildflowers, poppies and chamomile bloom among the remaining stone foundations of the once thriving kingdom. Climb the stone steps to the upper ramparts and use your imagination to see where the palace once stood, as well as homes and shops in this community of 15,000. Fun fact: Hercules’ mother (Greeks call him Heracles), Alcmene, was the Queen of Tiryns. You’ll likely have this peaceful place all to yourself, as we did.

Mighty Mycenae and a Scandal

One of the most important archeological sites in the world is perched high between two hills 30 minutes from Nafplio. Home to the once mighty Mycenean civilization, this area of Greece has been inhabited since the 7^th millennium BC. The extensive ruins here date from the late Bronze Age (1,350 to 1,200 BC). Excavation of the vast site began in 1876, funded by a German businessman with a penchant for Homerian heroes. He was on a quest to find the burial site of King Agamemnon and he succeeded.

*These enormous stones at Mycenea are a hallmark of Cyclopsean architecture. It was thought that only creatures as great as the cyclops could have built with stones this size, not mortal men.*

The Legend

Legend has it that the conquering hero returned home from war (Agamemnon, not the German businessman) to find his wife Clytemnestra had taken up with Aegisthus, his cousin. Together they stabbed him to death in the bath, partly in revenge for sacrificing Clytemnestra’s daughter to ensure favorable winds for the Greeks as their warships sailed to Troy. The lovers are buried in giant beehive tombs, side by side, in the fields below the citadel. You’ll have to drive up the road and hike a bit to find Agamemnon’s larger, but solitary resting place. Don’t miss these ancient architectural wonders with their spectacular domes!

Walk inside Agamemnon’s phenomenal tholos, or beehive, tomb- an architectural wonder. Pieces of the sculpted facade are on display at the British Museum in London and the National Archeological Museum in Athens. Grave robbers make it impossible to know what treasures he may have been interred with.

Mycenae is on the tourist route and there were busloads the morning we visited. The often-photographed Lions Gate is at the entrance and selfie-seekers can create a bottleneck. Be prepared to be awed as you follow the pathway up through the Cyclopean walls where you’ll find the ruined palaces, temples, royal burial circles, cistern, treasury and fortifications of ancient Greece.

*Royal burial circles at Mycenae are just inside the gates. The dead were placed in vaults vertically.*

There are some paved paths at Mycenae, particularly in the beginning of the complex through the Lion’s Gate and past the royal burial circles. Further along, the path is mostly rocks and dirt with sharp pieces of marble protruding from the ground. It becomes paved again later. Much of this site is not accessible for people with mobility challenges, nor are the fields below the citadel where the beehive tombs are located.

*The famous Lions Gate is a highlight at ancient Mycenae and one of the few areas accessible for those with mobility challenges.*

Whether you visit the Mycenae Museum before or after the archeological site is personal preference. Just be sure you see it. More than 2,500 amazing treasures including fine gold works like Agamemnon’s exquisite death mask, everyday items like pottery, weapons, figurines, jewelry, and frescoes from the archeological site showcase the life and afterlife of the ancient Myceneans from the Bronze Age to the Hellenistic Era.

*Agamemnon”s death mask is just a splendid example example of the fine gold work the Mycenaens were known for.* *You’ll find it in the Mycenae Museum.*

An Ancient Healing Place

*It’s a long climb to the top of the ancient theater at Epidaurus. Known for its outstanding acoutics, it still hosts performances today. And yes, you can hear every word spoken at the bottom!*

In the ancient world, Epidaurus and the Sanctuary of Asclepius was known as a curative place. Asclepius was the most important healing god in antiquity. Today the site draws visitors primarily for its theater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its perfect acoustics. Built around 340 BC, the Greek theater, which was expanded by the Romans to seat up to 14,000, is one of the best preserved in the world and still used for performances. Climb up the steep stone steps to the top and listen to the “orators” below.

*Take time to wander through the Sanctuary of Asclepius, one of the most important healing places of the ancient world.*

After, head out to the sanctuary where you can visit temples, the gymnasium and the enkoimeteria- a large hall where visitors would sleep and wait for the gods to come to them in their dreams with health advice. There is also a small museum on the site with sculptures and other excavated artifacts.

Byzantium

*The road leading to the ancient Argos Theater, built in 320 BC, still has some of its marble pavers. Just beyond are Roman baths and the Greek Agora is across the road.*

Snakes were the only thing on my mind as we followed the groundskeeper who, armed with a weedwhacker, cleared the tall grass between placards in the ancient agora, or marketplace, at Argos. Located in the modern town, the ruins of Roman baths and the theater complex are across a busy street. They’re worth seeing, though there is little signage.

*Detail on a stela near the Argos Theater.*

The Byzantine Museum, housed in the historic Kapodistria Barracks, focuses on private, public and religious life here, from 324 AD until 1453 AD. Everyday objects, pottery, sculpture, weapons, and religious artifacts that belonged to residents of the one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world gave us a fascinating peek into the past.

*This 13th century bowl is among the everyday objects on display at the Byzantine Museum in Argos*.

Nafplio and the amazing archeological sites nearby filled us with wonder and sparked our interest in returning to this spectacular region of Greece for a deeper exploration of these ancient civilizations. Our road trip continued to Kalamata, Patras, Galaxidi, Delphi and finally, Athens—a city we could have spent a month exploring. Those who choose the Peloponnese Peninsula as their destination, as we did, will be generously rewarded. We’ll visit the islands another time!

Practicalities– Driving and More

*Driving on Greece’s main roads is easy. Mountainous, country roads are bit of a challenge but getting to explore the Peloponnese countryside is worth the effort.*

Nafplio is an easy drive from Athens, but country roads can be winding and narrow, especially in the mountains, and people drive fast. Most signage is in Greek and English but not all, so prepare by jotting down the Greek spelling for your destination, especially if it is off the main road, and bring paper maps. Most Greeks speak English, but they were tickled when we could say good morning, hello, goodbye, and thank you in their native tongue. Very few of the archeological sites we visited were accessible for people with mobility challenges.

*Nafplio was a great place to begin our exploration of the Peloponnese Peninsula. We will definitely return!*

If You Go

We stayed at 3Sixty Hotel & Suites in Nafplio. Some of our favorite restaurants were I Folio, Taverna Pidalio, Mevta, and 3Sixty Grill, all in Nafplio. Here are links to the sites we visited mentioned in this article: Archeological Museum of Nafplio, Palamidi Castle, Archeological Site and Museum at Mycenae, Archeological Site at Tiryns, Archeological Site at Argos, Byzantine Museum in Argos, Epidaurus, the Bourtzi.

For group travel info visit advantageintravel.com.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Have More Fun and Stress Less: Practical Travel Tips You’ll Actually Use

We can’t help with the weather, crowds and unexpected events vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your adventures better and much more fun whenever and where ever you go!

Check Your Documents

*Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!*

You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Renew it today if it’s not valid for at least six months from your scheduled return date and be prepared to pay to expedite this. If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process. Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.

Are You a Trusted Traveler?

Save time and stress at the airport. Sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport has free “security reservations” allowing you to book a time to pass through security lines.

*Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!*

Include your “known traveler” number in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile. Enroll today if you haven’t already.

Back Up Plan

Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WiFi isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear. Print your boarding passes. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.

*Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.*

Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone. Make color copies of these documents. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor.

If Your Passport is Lost or Stolen

This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen. Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London, both when we filed the mandatory police report and at the US Embassy.

*London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.*

Be sure to have replacement photos correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than the US does. We made this mistake and it was costly and time consuming to go back for photos a second time.

*Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!*

We use Google Maps everywhere. GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access maps we thought we downloaded while on WiFi. We wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us on a dirt tract while looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon. Bring paper maps as a backup.

Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!

Get the App

*Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.*

Driving

If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.

*To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.*

Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. To see what’s it’s really like to drive in other countries, check out Tripiamo‘s driving guides. You’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP), to drive in Europe and elsewhere overseas.

*Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.*

Get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA). Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you. You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos. The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.

You Need a What?

Some countries like Austria and Slovenia require a vignette to drive in their country. You purchase these just before crossing the border, usually at a rest stop or gas station. There will be signs. Most vignettes are digital now and register your license plate for a certain number of days, but there are still some places that sell a sticker you’ll need to affix to your windshield. Rental car companies typically do not provide these and you can be pulled over and fined if you haven’t gotten a vignette.

Book Your Rental Car Early

*For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.*

Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels. Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book. Double check prices several times including right before you leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals. Do the same with hotels. We have had good luck with Auto Slash. It’s a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.

*Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.*

Examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.

Car Services

Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.

Take the Train

Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville, Spain since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid.

If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car, but in this case, we didn’t. Even though we weren’t driving in the cities we visited, we still had to pay the rental and the garage fees and they added it up, believe me!

*If you’re mostly traveling in cities, take the train.*

Use Train Apps

Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.

*Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.*

Most European countries have their own rail line. There’s SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps to buy tickets and select seats. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer weekends and holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.

*Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.*

Validate

Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!

Join Hotel Loyalty Programs

Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP, before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.

*Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!*

If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores. These are lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress. If you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.

It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!

Create an Itinerary

Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), tours, and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.

*First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome.* *Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.*

This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.

*Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.*

Take Time to Relax

A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything. Take your time and focus on a few highlights.

Bring the Right Credit Cards

Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.

Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.

*Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.*

We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!

Cash is Not King But You’ll Need Some

*There are certain things you have to pay cash for.*

You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all. There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere. We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one. You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific. Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet which is not that unusual in Europe.

*The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.*

On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency. You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM.

ATMs

Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees. When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice. When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately, just like at home. Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.

There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.

Buy Travel Insurance

*Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.*

No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen; from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse. Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry. Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance.

*Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!*

We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation. Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.

No Bad Weather

There’s an old saying, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe choices.” You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece.

Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.

*As the saying goes, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe decisions.” Be prepared!*

Packing Tips

Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.

*Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.*

If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself. Bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts. It’s considered disrespectful in many cultures and you don’t want to miss out.

*An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.*

Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling. You can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products you think you need at home and pick up your basics overseas. There are Sephoras in most cities and well-stocked pharmacies everywhere for everything from shampoo to shaving cream. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.

Don’t Check Luggage

Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer and holiday travel seasons. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it. Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees.

Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!

The Dreaded Gate Check

Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag. Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on. European rules are different and you’ll have to hand it over.

Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack. These are considered “personal items” and must fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.

*Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.*

Check Your Airline

Always check your airline’s requirements. Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible. Prices go up as departure time nears.

Cancel Deliveries

*You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..*

If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who allow you to donate your papers to local schools. Or have your account credited for days you are away, just don’t let them pile up on the driveway. Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too. The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return.

Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway. They can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.

Some Final Advice

You’re all set. Your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.

*Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!*

Here’s some final advice before you go: To really enjoy your travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp. Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines, and meeting new people. Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired, after all it is your vacation. Now go see the world and have some fun!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. I
promise not to spend it all on gelato. Thank you for your support!

O Canada! An Exciting Culinary Adventure in Southern Québec

It doesn’t normally take five days to drive from Québec City to Montreal, but we weren’t on an ordinary trip. Hosted by Bonjour Québec, we were on an epicurean journey. Our culinary experiences included a visit to a traditional sugar shack; farm-to-table dining where the farm was literally outside the door; visits to local wineries as well as an award-winning cidery; a monumental market with an educational farm and butterfly pavilion; a mountain hike and more. We only had one night in each location, but I’d strongly recommend settling in and enjoying Southern Quebec’s warm hospitality more fully. Here are some of the highlights:

Find the best accommodations in Southern Québec!

Wine and Cheese? Oui, Merci!

Canada may not be the first country that springs to mind for wine tourism. Perhaps it should. The Okanagan Valley in British Columbia has 284 wineries and 4,486 hectares of vineyards and Ontario is known for it’s world-class ice wine. Québec is Canada’s third largest wine region and a growing force in the country’s wine industry. It boasts 125 wineries and 775 Hectares dedicated to viticulture.

Our journey began with a visit to Vignoble Cotes du Gavet, a family-run, award-winning winery in Centre-du-Québec. The Marchand family has been making wines here since 2023 from vineyards that have been producing since 2000.

We sampled several of their wines including their pet nats (petillant naturel). I was particularly partial to the sparkling rose. The wines, under both Cotes du Gavet and Osez labels, are made using local hybrid grape varietals like Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Noir, Louise Swenson, Sabrevois, Petite Pearl and Crimson Pearl.

We enjoyed delicious cheeses from Fromagerie du Presbytère with our wine tasting. Their award-winning cheeses are produced nearby by the Morin family using milk from their dairy farm, Ferme Louis d’Or. They are aged in a former church, which retains a small chapel for worship. Our cheese platter featured Louis d’Or aged 24 and 36 months, Religieuse, Bleu d’Elizabeth and Laliberte. I’d love to visit their shop in St. Elizabeth du Warwick during one of their famous Friday summer picnics. They feature live music and are open to all.

Poutine!

Poutine is almost synonymous with Québec. We learned all about this beloved regional dish and its controversial beginnings at the Musee des Cultures du Monde. The iconic dish, which is traditionally made from French fries, gravy and cheese curds, has been adapted globally to reflect local tastes in nearly every corner of the world.

We had fun voting for our favorite origin story and most important ingredient using giant plastic French fries. The only thing missing here was actual poutine. I think we were all craving it at the end of the exhibit. The poutine-themed merch in the gift shop was impossible to resist and made up for missing the tasty dish.

Poutine: A Culture of all Flavors is a special exhibition and closes September 28. There is more to see at this small museum in the Centre-du-Québec.

The museum has ongoing exhibitions about world religions including a massive display of Barbie dolls illustrating wedding customs from many cultures.

Elevated Cuisine at Au Paturage

Au Paturage roughly translates to at the pasture. The restaurant is indeed surrounded by agricultural fields and flower- filled meadows. The elegant Au Paturage- Espaces Gourmand,

focuses on seasonal, locally sourced foods, including produce grown on their own three-acre farm, right outside the restaurant. Their cheese comes from Fromagerie Presbytère and meat from Ferme le Roy du Cerf. After a welcome cocktail, it was time to taste the vegetable-forward menu.

Prepared in the open kitchen by Chef Chloe Ouellet, the meal was spectacular. Each course was paired with wines from Québec, or interestingly, Eastern Europe. During summer, their dog-friendly 55-seat terrace is open. Be sure to make reservations.

The (Very) Old Mill

After a night at Hotel Montfort in Nicolet, it was time to move on to Bécancour. We began the day with a visit to the historic Moulin Michel, which has been grinding buckwheat into flour since 1743. The current mill has been operating in the Centre-du-Québec since 1774, after a fire destroyed the original mill.

Owner Philippe Dumas showed us the hydraulic mechanism and taught us about the fascinating history of buckwheat, the 18^th century mill, and the area. Fun fact, in lieu of cash, farmers left a portion of their grain as payment to use the mill, which was available to everyone.

Inside the historic mill building you’ll find a café and shop with delectable pastries, coffee and local products for sale. In the evening it becomes a bar.

During summer months, the sprawling grounds behind the mill are transformed into an entertainment venue. The Old Mill hosts a Blues Festival that draws 1,200 people to this town of 2,000.

Take a Hike or Bike

We needed to walk off all those goodies and did so with a guided hike at the beautiful Parc des Sommets. It’s a popular natural recreation area in Bromont in the Eastern Townships. In summer, the 150 kilometers of hiking trails draw outdoor lovers of all ages and abilities. It’s also a great place to bike. Let the kids try out the climbing wall or just enjoy a picnic here.

Southern Québec boasts six national parks perfect for outdoor endeavors like hiking, biking and kayaking during lazy summer days and crisp autumn ones. There are snow sports of all kinds when the winter weather beckons.

L’Espace Old Mill

Having met our exercise goal for the day, it was time for dinner at one of the toughest tables to get in the Eastern Townships; L’Espace Old Mill.

Inspiration and education are on the menu at this extraordinary restaurant that serves only what grows in its greenhouse and gardens (even in Québec’s frigid winter months) and what it can procure from nearby farms. We enjoyed a glass of local sparkling wine while we toured the expansive gardens with Executive Chef Eric Gendron before heading inside the airy dining room to feast on summer’s bounty.

The hyper-local focus is on the cuisine of the Brome-Missiquoi region here. Farmer/owner Jean-Martin Fortier came by and shared his vision for L’Espace Old Mill and their ongoing commitment to sustainable and regenerative farming, widely embraced by farmers in the Eastern Townships.

The Michelin Green Star-awarded restaurant’s menu is naturally vegetable-forward, though not vegetarian. I don’t think I have ever had peas or radishes that tasted so sweet and delectable! The wines poured to match the courses were also local. After a remarkable meal, we were off to nearby Hotel Chateau-Bromont, our lux and comfortable home for the night.

We had a beautiful bi-level room at Hotel Chateau-Bromont with a gorgeous view of the mountains. After our abundant breakfast, we explored the property, wishing we had more time to lounge around the spa and pool area. We need a return visit to take advantage of the wellness offerings here and revisit the beautiful nature park! Another dinner at Old Mill would be wonderful, too.

Beer and Brunch

It was time to move on to the charming town of Dunham and the Brasserie Dunham, which brews its own beer. We took a table in the outdoor beer garden and finally, poutine was on the menu! We couldn’t resist ordering a plate to share.

Hearty sandwiches, salads, burgers and other beer-friendly fare make the Brasserie popular for lunch and dinner. The brewery offers beers from blonde lagers to IPAs to seasonal ales and stouts. Our group sampled several. Our wonderful driver Dave was behind the wheel so were able to indulge in adult beverages.

On the Wine Route

Our stomachs full, we headed out to explore the wine route of Brome-Missisquoi where about 60 percent of Québec’s wine is produced. Now home to more than 20 wineries, the 160-kilometer route winds through beautiful countryside, rolling hills and several pleasant towns in the Eastern Townships. There are itineraries for cars and bicycles available.

Domaine du Ridge

Our first stop was at Domaine du Ridge, a 200-acre property that includes fields, woodlands and 40 acres of vineyards. It’s a popular venue for weddings and other special events. Tours and tastings are by reservation at this 26-year-old winery.

In addition to still and sparkling wines, Domaine du Ridge produces a late harvest made with Vidal Blanc grapes called Bis d’Automne (Autumn Kiss), a dessert wine in the style of Pineau des Charentes, and Mystic, a vermouth. After sampling several still wines from their recent vintage it was time to move on to Vignoble de l’Ardennais.

Vignoble de l’Ardennais

You’ll know you have arrived at Vignoble de l’Ardennais when you see the giant bunny painted on the garage. This was my favorite, both for the wines and the charming owner, Pier Cousineau, who with his wife Stephanie Thibodeau, and adult children Charlotte and Eliot, run every facet of wine production from label design to vinification.

Other than Pinot Noir and Riesling, the grape varieties used here were unfamiliar to me. Seyval Noir, Chancellor, Petite Pearl, Frontenac Noir, Cayuga, and Marquette are hardy hybrid varietals that grow well in the often unforgiving Québec climate. Monsieur Cousineau uses them to full advantage to produce excellent wines and has been since 2016 when they acquired the property. The vineyards had been established by the previous owner in 1994. Grab a glass of Berthe rose and relax in the Adirondack chairs or picnic tables. That’s my idea of a perfect summer Sunday afternoon.

Dining en Plein Aire

It was a pleasant surprise to find that our Sunday dinner at Les Cocagnes in Frelighsburg would be prepared by chefs Emile Trembly and Sylvain Dervieux from Faux Bergers in Baie St. Paul, where we had spent the weekend before arriving in Québec City.

Les Cocagnes

Each summer weekend, chefs from throughout Québec set up shop at this bucolic spot in the Eastern Townships. After an aperitif and hand-sliced local prosciutto, we followed our hostess through the fields and vegetable gardens to the outdoor dining room for a memorable five-course tasting menu paired with local wines. Reservations are essential.

It was time to leave the Eastern Townships for Montérégie. La Cache du Lac Champlain across the street from Lake Champlain was our home for the evening. After depositing our bags in our large room with a golf course view, we headed out for a moonlight walk along the lake.

We couldn’t resist a local ice cream stand a few blocks away and enjoyed our cones while admiring the public art and private terraces along the lake front. These terraces, with outdoor furniture and boat docks, dot the lakefront while the homes are across the road.

Public Art

Les Amoureuses (The Lovers) by Veronique Pepin and Patrick Monast has space inside for two. It is the first work in a public art installation in Venice-en-Québec and will be on view through May 2026.

Ferme Guyon and Bonne Saint Jean

We heard people at breakfast greeting each other with “Bonne Saint Jean.” Saint Jean Baptiste (John the Baptist) is the patron saint of Québec, and the Fete de la Saint Jean is a national holiday in the province. This called for a slight change of plans and a trip to Ferme Guyon.

Just 30 minutes from Montreal, this is the supermarket of my dreams. Farm-fresh produce, fine cheeses, charcuterie, maple sugar everything (cotton candy!), and an extensive selection of local ciders, beer and wines, plus Québecois handicrafts make this a one-stop shop for picnic provisions or any meal you’d want to prepare. If you don’t have time to visit local fromageries, wineries and farms, a trip here will definitely give you a taste of local flavors!

The Ferme Guyon also has an educational farm with adorable baby animals and a butterfly pavilion, which in addition to housing lepidoptera, is the habitat of Oscar, a 14-year old tortoise. I could have spent the whole day here, but shopping completed, we headed off to Cidrerie Michel Jodoin on the Rougemont Cider and Montérégie Wine Route.

Jodoin Cider…

I adore champagne and was intrigued to learn that Monsieur Jodoin had worked in France’s Champagne region in the 1980s and returned to Québec with a plan to make a sparkling wine from apples using the traditional methode champenois. His family has been in the apple orchard business for five generations, ever since Jean-Baptiste Jodoin purchased 100 apple trees in 1901. Jodoin is now the largest grower of Geneva apples in North America.

Their award-winning ciders were delicious, and we enjoyed them thoroughly with our picnic lunch in the cidery’s cellars. My favorite was Attention Ca Va Faire Pomme! It’s packaged to look like champagne and captures the wine’s characteristics right down to the perlage or tiny bubbles in the glass.

Jodoin makes several refreshing roses from apples, a broad range of fruit flavored ciders, vermouth, and non- alcoholic drinks. They became the first micro distillery in the country in 1999 and we tasted their spirits, too.

No reservations are needed to visit the Cidrerie Michel Jodoin tasting room. Visitors are welcome to enjoy their picnics outside and can access the hiking trails here. During the summer their grounds are often the site of evening entertainment.

…and More Wine

Next, we stopped into Coteau Rougemont just down the road from Jodoin, to sample their wines. The winery was quiet due to the holiday, so we enjoyed a leisurely tasting outdoors overlooking the beautiful gardens and rolling hills of Montérégie. They also sell local honey, jams and maple syrup at the winery.

Spaaaah

It was time for a break. Bonjour Québec arranged a wonderful afternoon of complete relaxation at Strom Spa Nordique. The thermal waters and serene surroundings are the draw here and we took full advantage, moving from one temperature- controlled pool to another on the recommended circuit. After several hours of blissful soaking, it was dinnertime.

The menu at Bistro Nord at the Strom Spa spotlights artfully and healthily prepared local produce and every course was both. Executive Chef Raphael Podlasiewicz came out to describe each delicious dish to us. Reservations are required at the Strom Spa Nordique locations throughout Québec and in their restaurants as well.

We spent our last night in Québec at the Hotel Rive Gauche, just 20 minutes from Montreal. The hotel is on the Richelieu River, and we were able to see a bit of the Fete de la Saint Jean fireworks launched further upstream.

Sugar Shack

Our last stop on our extraordinary epicurean adventure was a visit to Sucrerie de la Montagne. This traditional “sugar shack” has been a site for maple syrup production in Montérégie since the 1930s. It has been owned by the Faucher family since 1978.

Unlike most, this sugar shack is open all year long, not just March to April during the “sugaring off” season. Owner Steven Faucher (shown above in front of a photo of his father) showed us where and how they make syrup.

We learned how trees are tapped using a spout and bucket and the “maple water” collected and turned into syrup. It takes 40 gallons of maple water to make one gallon of light or amber (medium) syrup, and 50 gallons to make a gallon of dark syrup! Amber is the most popular grade of syrup.

How They Make It

We also visited the massive oven, which was purpose-built in 1982 for bread baking and requires two bakers working six days a week to make enough loaves to feed workers and guests during the maple sugar season.

After finishing our tour of the buildings, we settled into their popular restaurant for a hearty meal, served with maple syrup made at Sucrerie de la Montagne, of course. During lunch we were entertained by live traditional Québecois music and afterwards given a lesson in playing the spoons by our jovial and charming host. Depending on when you visit, you may even see an axe-throwing demonstration near the general store, which has a wide selection of local goods, handicrafts and maple syrup products. Some syrup and tea towels made it into my suitcase!

Southern Quebec for Summer Fun

Our journey through Southern Québec was an unending series of delight and surprise, from the gorgeous countryside to the incredible cuisine. What will really stay with me is the warmth, generosity, and hospitality of the people I met in Centre-du-Québec, the Eastern Townships and Montérégie. Despite recent political tensions between our countries, the Québecois are wonderfully welcoming. Take them up on their offer to, “Come to the Eastern Townships and hug it out!”

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you. I appreciate it!

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Why Spring is a Great Time to Visit Amalfi

By mid-March, most of us in the Northern Hemisphere are tired of winter. Our thoughts turn to cloudless blue skies, tourmaline waters, and sun-dappled landscapes. Italy’s Amalfi Coast with its breathtaking views, pristine beaches, and lemons as big as your head, comes immediately to mind. Mild temperatures, a relaxed pace, and relative lack of crowds make Spring the perfect time to travel to what is considered a dream destination by many. Here’s what I discovered on my Springtime trip to Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello.

Beat the Crowds

Amalfi's seaside esplanade with tables and closed umbrella under a blue sky — *Visit Amalfi before Easter and enjoy this dream destination without the crowds.*

Easter marks the beginning of the season in Amalfi and elsewhere in Campania. We decided to visit right before the holiday, hoping to beat the crowds as we had the previous week in the seaside village of Castellabate di Santa Maria. About two hours drive south of Amalfi on the Cilento Coast, there were few tourists and many shops and restaurants remained closed during our stay. Our hotel, the Palazzo Belmonte, was in its “soft opening” period and the restaurant, pool, and beach club hadn’t opened yet but we had great fun exploring this less discovered area. After a five-night stay, Amalfi beckoned so we packed up the rental car and headed north.

sitting room with sunset view outside the window — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

large bedroom with floral printed rug, a settee with pink pillows and a king bed with red printed coverlet — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

We had barely turned on to the coastal road that winds its way across the Sorrento Peninsula, when we came nose-to-nose with an enormous city bus. I was terrified. I couldn’t even take a photo as my husband slowly backed up the narrow roadway into a spot wide enough to let the bus pass. This, I thought, is why people hire professional drivers to get around the Amalfi Coast. It was not the last time I would have this realization.

*Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

bus takes both lanes of the road around a corner — *Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

We soldiered on towards Amalfi, holding our collective breath as we inched by buses and other cars on narrow, hairpin turns. With a sigh of relief, we arrived at DieciSedici.

An Albergo Diffuso

After checking in at the reception desk, we were directed to the building next door. Though billed as a boutique hotel, DieciSedici was more of an albergo diffuso. We had unwittingly booked a room in a residential building, not a proper hotel. This kind of lodging, where “hotel” rooms can be in different buildings, or diffused, is not uncommon in Italy and is fine if you don’t need 24/7 on-site assistance.

old pink stucco residential building with a couple walking twoards it — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

hotel room with bed, desk and two windows — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

Beware the Stairs

When the receptionist mentioned there were stairs and no lift, we asked for help with the bags. Even though we travel with only carry-on bags, we were glad we did. Leo assisted us up the 64 stone steps leading to our room. As we climbed, we learned that breakfast, included with the stay, was served at the Bistro F. Illi Pansa where he worked. It was about a 10-minute walk away in the historic center.

Steep stone steps inside a residential building — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

man and donkeys walking down the street in Amalfi — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

While we settled in, the receptionist had someone from a nearby garage come and spirit our rental car away. She instructed us to call 45 minutes before we needed the car again, but discouraged us from driving in the area at all.

Our room was large, clean, and comfortable. It had a spacious bathroom with a heated towel rack, a small refrigerator, and an electric tea kettle. We could even see a sliver of the sea from our Juliette balcony. After catching our breath, we headed back down the steep steps to explore Amalfi.

The Heart of Amalfi

people gathered by an ancient fountain having a drink and filling waer bottles — *The beautiful Baroque Fountain of St. Andrew, across from Amalfi’s cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo, is a popular spot to get a drink or fill a water bottle.*

We walked along the sparkling sea front, past many restaurants not yet open for the season, and a few busily preparing for the evening’s guests. There were some pedestrians and bicyclists on the promenade but nothing like I’d seen in summertime photos.

*Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

cafe with white table clothes and women sitting at a table — *Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

After passing the transportation hub where boats to Capri and Positano, and buses to Ravello, Sorrento and other points on the peninsula arrive and depart, we entered a pedestrian tunnel. Minutes later we found ourselves on the Piazza del Duomo in the heart of Amalfi’s historic old town staring in awe at the spectacular cathedral that is the city’s centerpiece.

Amalfi’s Duomo

Cathedral of St. Andrew's Byzantine facade with golden mosaics — *The Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle’s facade is spectacular day or night.*

Built between the 9^thand 12^th centuries, the Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle is a masterwork in golden mosaics that gleam in the Mediterranean sunshine. We watched as the elegant façade with its bronze Byzantine doors drew wedding couples and their photographers, and Instagrammers galore. The restaurant where we would enjoy breakfast each morning was directly across from the cathedral, providing us with endless people-watching opportunities with our morning cappuccino.

view of the cathedral in Amalfi with people sitting and standing on the steps — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

people seated at tables in a cafe — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

After queuing for a much-needed gelato at Cioccolato Andrea Pansa, we bought tickets to visit the cathedral. It features Gothic, Romanesque, Byzantine and Arab-Norman architectural styles and is one of the most popular sites in Amalfi. Architect Enrico Alvino designed the ornately decorated facade after an 1861 collapse damaged the front and atrium of the church.

*The opulent interior of Amalfi’s duomo, dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle.*

fresco with angels and dove — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Byzantine painting of the Holy family — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Our 3 Euro visit included the Cathedral and adjoining Basilica of the Crucifix and its crypt. St. Andrews’ relics are there. There is also a small Diocesan museum with frescoes, sculpture and religious art inside the Basilica. Outside, we toured the peaceful Cloister of Paradise, once a burial ground for nobility.

Amalfi’s Famous Fruit

On our walk around town, we saw plenty of evidence of Amalfi’s number one citrus crop. Lemons, limoncello, lemon soap, lemon candles, lemon ice, lemon-embellished clothing, lemon everything was for sale everywhere. At dinner at Pizzeria Donna Stella, we had a table on the upstairs terrace. Lemons were growing overhead.

People in front of the Bottega di Limone, a shop selling lemon-based products and lemon-embellished clothes. — *Lemon everything is sold* *in towns across the Sorrento Peninsula*. Upstairs is one of my favorite restaurants, Da Gemma.

man at a table with lemon trees growing in restaurant — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

A display of various lemon-themed products and souvenirs, including bottles of limoncello, candies, and lemon-infused items, all neatly arranged in wooden crates with price tags. — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

Mistakes Were Made or How Not to Get to Pompeii

On our first full day in Amalfi, we planned to visit Pompeii. Earlier in the trip, we spent five days in Naples. From there, we took day trips by train to explore the nearby ruins in Herculaneum and spectacular palace and gardens at Reggia Caserta. We could have easily taken the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii from Naples, but thought it would be better to drive from Amalfi. It was not.

frescoes on the walls of an ancient villa in Pompeii — *We were richly rewarded with the chance to see ancient frescoes in Pompeii’s intact villas, though the drive there was harrowing.*

No one was available to bring us our car, so we made our way up the steep streets to the garage, passing sure-footed donkeys on the way. Back in our car, we drove down the narrow main street, ever so slowly, past startled shoppers, stand after stand of lemon-themed merchandise, cafes, and coffee shops until we reached the road out of town.

crowd of people waiting at Pompeii — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

teenagers with their backs to viewer wearing Maradona jerseys — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

For what seemed like an eternity, we drove up harrowing, hairpin turns around the mountain and down the other side. I was exhausted by the time we reached Pompeii, and I wasn’t even behind the wheel. It was well worth the nerve-wracking journey to explore the extensive and fascinating archeological site and we spent the entire day there. I’ll share about that experience in another article, but we should have taken the train from Naples. Or hired a driver in Amalfi.

Ravello

bronze statue of Bacchus with child holding grapes on his shoulders — *Villa Cimbrone’s gardens, my main reason for coming to Ravello, are filled with sculpture, fountains and spectacular views.*

I was not ready to get back in the car after our Pompeii outing, but had always wanted to visit the gardens at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Buses runs every half hour from Amalfi and cost 1.50 Euro each way, cash only. The decision was an easy one.

sign saying bus ticket here cash only — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

two men on a motorscooter in front of two buses that say Amalfi on them — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

Up, up, up we went on those now familiar hairpin turns, the ride accompanied by the sounds of squealing bus tires and a blaring horn warning other drivers that we were coming. Buses takes up both lanes of the narrow road so alerting others is a matter of safety.

About a half an hour later, we arrived in Ravello. We hiked through the ancient town and climbed the winding 100 steps to the celebrated Villa Cimbrone. The Villa dates to the 12^th century and has long attracted literary luminaries including members of the Bloomsbury Group like Virginia Woolf and E.M.Forster, celebrities, and bold face names such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Tennessee Williams and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

formal gardens with umbrella trees and stone wall — *Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

*Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

Someday I’d love to stay at the five- star hotel, but I’d set my sights on the botanical gardens for this visit. For 10 Euro, visitors can explore the property’s expansive English-Italo style gardens, redesigned in the early 20^th century by Lord Grimthorpe (Ernest William Beckett) with advice from celebrated English garden designer Vita Sackville-West. In March, the gardens were not in full bloom, but it was still a wonderful experience to stroll the sprawling grounds, admire the superb sculpture, and enjoy sensational views from the Terrace of Infinity high above the sea.

terrace overlooking the sea with marble statues — *Standing on the Terrace of Infinity, you’ll quickly understand how it got its name.*

There were few other visitors in Villa Cimbrone’s gardens that sunny March day, but the restaurants and cafes we passed on our way back to Ravello’s historic city center were buzzing.

The Villa Rufolo and the Ravello Festival

a view from above of gardens at Villa Rufolo — *A view of Villa Rufolo’s gardens, home to the Ravello Festival*.

Another highlight of our day in Ravello was a visit to the Villa Rufolo. It’s right off the Piazza Vescavado, the main square, and home to the acclaimed Ravello Festival that takes place every summer. The festival features world-renowned symphony orchestras, soloists, and ensembles, and will celebrate its 74^th season in 2026. The festival runs from July 4 to September 5 and is the reason Ravello refers to itself as the “City of Music”.

gardens with large palm tree and the sea in the distance — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

inside view of a large pink room with tile floors and a glass chandelier — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

Our self-guided tour included the upper rooms, Knight’s Hall, chapel, theater, cloisters, magnificent gardens and belvedere overlooking the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. We could only imagine what a memorable experience it would be to attend a performance on these spectacular grounds with the gardens and sea as a backdrop.

At the bus stop, we were surprised by the size of the crowd that had gathered. Apparently, it had been an hour or more since the last bus had appeared. One finally came 30 minutes later. Even with the wait, the crowded bus was better than driving.

Amalfi’s Maritime Museum

overview of Maritime Museum with vaulted arches and displays in glass cases — *The Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum, located in Amalfi’s Arsenal, holds 1,000 years of nautical, scientific, and cultural history.*

There’s more to see in Amalfi than the Cathedral and shops. Amalfi was once one of the most important maritime centers and trading hubs on the Mediterranean. Nearly 1,000 years of the city’s nautical, scientific, and cultural history are stored in the Arsenal, home to the Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum.

replica of blue ship with golden horse — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

small stone statue of a young man siting with hand on his head — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

The museum showcases the evolution of nautical navigation equipment including the compass. The compass is a Chinese invention but Amalfitano Flavio Gioia was once credited with its creation. It was later acknowledged to have been brought to Amalfi by sailors who had traveled to China.

One of the antique yellow compasses on display — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

night view of fountain and bronze statue of a man — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

The museum’s collections include Roman and medieval treasures, coins, and manuscripts like the Tabula de Amalpha. This important document of maritime law, written in Latin, was used until the 16^th century. Maritime equipment, art, religious artifacts, and period costumes are also on exhibit. Additional exhibitions are on display in the Salone Morelli in the Town Hall.

Amalfi also has a Paper Museum, the Museo della Carta. I would have loved to visit but ran out of time.

Positano

After too much touring and driving, we hopped on a boat for the less than 30- minute ride to Positano. With the sun shining and wind in our hair, we were finally beginning to relax and enjoy the Amalfi Coast.

*There were plenty of seats on the boat to and from Positano, not likely the case once tourist season begins.*

Positano was exactly as I imagined; soaring cliffs dotted with citrus and olive groves, vineyards, and homes perched precariously high above the sea. Our plan was to have a wander, visit a church, see the shops, and have lunch by the beach. That seemed be the itinerary for most visitors.

men moving large palm trees by the beach — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

people sitting in chairs on the beach in Positano — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

Just like in Amalfi, not everything in Positano was open yet, but would be soon. Workers were very busy preparing for the Easter weekend ahead, which officially kicks off the busy season. Shops and restaurants that had been closed all winter were being swept and windows washed. From our seaside table at Chez Black, we watched as workers erected umbrellas and set up chairs on the beach. They were even busily planting palm trees in the sand.

people eating in a cafe with striped awning that says Chez Black — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

exterior of church with small labyrinth in front of it — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

As we wandered the unexpectedly crowded streets, we saw racks of summer clothes outside in the sunshine, surrounded by shoppers. I have never seen so many lemon-embellished clothes, hats, shoes, and home décor as I did that one afternoon in Positano. After eating and drinking, shopping is a very popular pastime in Positano.

Before leaving Positano, we stopped at the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. We walked the small labyrinth outside the church and took some time in the church’s serene interior to reflect on our good fortune.

On the boat back to Amalfi, I spied a gentleman sporting a straw hat with lemon trimmed band, lemon-embroidered shirt, shorts, and espadrilles. His companion was similarly attired. He told me he was from Milwaukee and on the trip of a lifetime. He certainly had the souvenirs to show for it.

If You Go:

*The sun sets on the Tree of Life on Amalfi’s blissfully quiet esplanade before the “season” begins.*

Don’t wait for summer to travel when the number of tourists and temperatures soar.

Consider hiring a driver or using buses and boats to get around the Amalfi Coast. Driving is treacherous and not for the faint of heart. Boats and buses leave from the harbor (Porto di Amalfi) on a regular schedule or you can hire a private boat. Taxis are also readily available.

Tourism is the main industry in Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and most towns on the Sorrento Peninsula. Be prepared to pay accordingly and extravagantly for almost everything.

If you struggle with mobility issues, be aware that streets are narrow, often cobbled, and hilly. There are stairs nearly everywhere you go, inside and outside.

Practicalities: Where to Eat, Where to Stay in Amalfi

We enjoyed our daily gelato stop at Ciocolatta Andrea Pansa, breakfast at Bistro F. Illi Pansa (included with our room rate), and dinners at Da Gemma, Ristorante L’Abside, and Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi. Antica Trattoria Barracca also came highly recommended and it was good, but we liked the others more.

We chose Amalfi as our base to explore the Sorrento Peninsula with the exception of two nights in Sorrento. We stayed at the Hilton Sorrento Palace before returning to Naples for a flight to Sicily. If you don’t mind climbing many steep stairs and don’t need a front desk with 24-hour assistance, DieciSedici is well-located. There are hotels at varying price points and levels of service, including some luxury properties like La Sirenuse, Il San Pietro di Positano, and Hotel Eden Roc all in Positano, plus Air BnBs, to choose from throughout the peninsula. Make your reservations far in advance, no matter when you plan to visit this popular destination.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

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Fairbanks in Summer: Fun Under the Midnight Sun

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds.

The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history.

We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

Sled Dogs

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

Athabaskan Culture

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead.

Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

Athabaskan Fashion

We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.

We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

Alaskan Ingenuity

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage.

Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park.

Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Safety First

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos.

Staying in Shape

We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

If You Go

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you. I appreciate your support!

Listen to the World at Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum

If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.

*Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.*

Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.

*I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!*

The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!

*Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!*

Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.

*Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria*.

*Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.*

We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.

*Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence*?

Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.

*The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow*, *shown below.*

*Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the **Treasures** exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.*

The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.

*This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.*

Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.

*Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.*

*I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums*.

The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.

Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.

Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.

*The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course*!

In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!

*Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!*

*Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.*

Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.

*Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.*

Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.

In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.

*Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!*

*No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!*

Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?

This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.

Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.

*Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranian* *province of Hormozgan.*

Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.

*Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.* *This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.*

Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.

*The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!*

Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the **Treasures** exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.

Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.

Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com is Protected by US copyright laws.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may make a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Maui Magic: A Blowhole, Beach Hike and Dragon’s Teeth

After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales and finally, it was the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!

*What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?*

Nakalele

The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.

*The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!*

Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.

*Park on the shoulder.* *There’s no official parking area here.*

*There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.*

If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.

*The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery*.

*We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!*

Beware the Blowhole

Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.

*These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.*

You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.

*Stay safe and stay clear of the blowhole even when it isn’t active.*

Safety First!

This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.

The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.

*You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.*

We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.

Beachtime

We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.

*Enjoy the beautiful coastline as you make your way down Maui’s winding roads.*

At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.

*Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.*

D.T. Fleming Beach

D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!

*Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.*

The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.

*Bring your own chairs and picnic lunch. Services can be limited on many beaches.*

We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.

*The surf was rough and the lifeguards were busy!*

After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.

*This monument marks* *an ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.*

Take a Hike

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.

*The going got rough, and slippery, the further out on the point we ventured.*

*The scenery was breathtaking from Makaluapuna Point.*

Dragon’s Teeth

The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!

*Take time to walk the labyrinth and reflect.*

There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.

The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?

Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!

Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Headed to Hawaii? What to Know Before You Go

Note: Even though Covid and the many restrictions (travel and otherwise) that came with it is behind us, I’m leaving this post up to memorialize the experience!

It seems like almost everyone I know is either on their way, just returned, or is planning a trip to Hawaii. With most international destinations still off limits for Americans, Hawaii is the perfect escape—mainlanders can enjoy a far flung holiday without leaving the USA. A trip to paradise during the pandemic is not going to happen without planning though. Gone are the days of buying a ticket and showing up at the airport. The State of Hawaii has testing requirements and rules in place to safeguard the health of its citizens and those wishing to enjoy a tropical get-away. Here’s what you need to know before you go.

First step—visit Safe Travels: State of Hawaii https://travel.hawaii.gov Here’s where you’ll find all current travel rules and requirements. They change frequently! You can also find helpful information at http://hawaiicovid19.com. You will need a Covid-19 test within 72-hours of travel and it must be administered by an approved testing organization. These are listed on the website. We used Carbon Health at San Diego’s airport. It was seamless and our results were back in plenty of time to upload and add to our documentation on the SafeTravelHawaii site. It was not inexpensive—we paid $170 each but knowing we’d have our results back on time reduced our stress level considerably.

*Visit https://travel .hawaii.gov before you pack for paradise!*

There is also a mandatory online questionnaire to complete. Once you’ve submitted all the information required, the State of Hawaii will send you a QR code. You will need this to check in for your flight and at your hotel. Some car rental companies may also want to see and scan your code. Consider printing a copy or two and keeping it with you along with a printed copy of your negative Covid-19 test results. WiFi can be spotty and you may need to show the QR code even when you can’t access it on your mobile device.

*Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own travel regulations. In Maui, you need to download the contact tracing app, for example.*

if you’re traveling to Maui, as we were, you’ll need to download the contact tracing app for the island. Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own, very specific rules and travel between islands also requires compliance with local regulations. You must meet all of these requirements even if you are fully vaccinated.

*Alaska Airline’s pre-screening meant we got off the plane and started our vacation with no further Covid-19 checks necessary.*

Your airline may also be of assistance in your travel preparations. We were able to complete a pre-clearance check before boarding our Alaska Airlines http://www.alaskaair.com flight. The wristbands we were given meant once we landed, we were free to leave the airport with no further interactions or delays. Hawaii means business– there were officials positioned throughout the airport, checking for wristbands. Those without them were whisked away.

*Hawaii is a very popular destination right now, especially since most international travel is still off limits to Americans.*

There is a mandatory quarantine in effect for anyone arriving without the required testing and documentation. I read recently of a couple who tried to bribe a TSA official upon landing without having been tested. They wanted to avoid quarantine and instead were arrested.

*We spent lots of time admiring rainbows, whale watching and staring at the sea in Maui.*

Be sure to book your rental car when you buy your air tickets. I’ve heard horror stories lately about the lack of rental car availability and the outrageous prices being charged. Do not expect to find a rental car without a reservation on any of the islands.

Because Hawaii is such a popular destination right now, make restaurant reservations before you leave home. We were lucky to get reservations for the last two nights of our 10-day holiday.

*Many popular restaurants were fully booked for the first week of our vacation. We would have booked our favorites before we left home, had we known!*

Due to Covid restrictions, restaurants are operating at limited capacity and reservations are a must at most places. Some of the more casual eateries will accept walk-ins and we had a luck with that at Maui Brewing Company www.mauibrewing.com on our first night. If you’re craving beer and a burger (or that tasty kalua pork), this is a great option and it’s family-friendly, too. I’m not much of a beer drinker but our friendly server gave me a few tastes to find one I liked– the Wiamea Red was my pick.

*The Wiamea Red and Hazy Big Swell IPA were perfect with our burger and tacos after a long travel day.*

*Maui Brewing makes a wide range of local beers from Bikini Blonde lager to the very robust Imperial Coconut Porter. They offer flights so you can try a few!*

They offer their beer to go with or without take-away food orders and it’s priced better at the brewery than the Safeway. They have two locations on Maui and two on Oahu. We ate at the Lahaina/Kahana outpost.

If you are up for a night out and enjoy Asian cuisine, Star Noodle in Lahaina www.starnoodle.com gets two thumbs up from us. We had such a delicious lunch that we returned for dinner later in our stay.

*Great food and a fabulous location make Star Noodle one of our top picks!*

The seating is almost all outdoors and right on the ocean–just what you want on a Hawaiian holiday. All the noodles are made in-house and both the Hot n Sour noodles and Singapore noodles were delicious.

*All the noodles at Star Noodle are made in-house and are delicious!*

The Nuoc Cham wings were so tasty we ate them both times! The Adobo Ribs were excellent as were the Colossal Tempura Shrimp but beware—these dishes sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.

*These Nuoc Cham wings were so good we ordered them twice.*

*We enjoyed a lunch and a dinner at Star Noodle. Reservations for both are required!*

Star Noodle is located right next door to the Old Lahaina Luau www.oldlahainaluau.com and during our dinner we could hear the drumming and the singing from next door. I even caught a glimpse of a few performers headed to the stage.

*The Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best and most popular on the island. They sell out months in advance during the high season.*

This brought back happy memories of traveling to Maui with our kids when they were younger and a trip to the luau was a Hawaiian highlight. The concierge at the Westin told me that the Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best on the island but get your tickets way in advance—it sells out quickly!

*Dukes is a popular spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.*

On our last night in Maui, we opted for the extremely popular Duke’s Beach House www.dukesmaui.com since it was just a short walk up the beach from the Nanea. We had booked early in the trip and honestly, my expectations were not high but the food and the service far surpassed what I imagined a place packed with tourists would offer. I had delicious, seared ahi and my husband opted for a huge and tasty burger.

*The ahi was perfectly fresh and seared just right.*

*They make a big, tasty burger at Duke’s Maui.*

They offered us a complimentary Hulu pie—their signature dessert, but we were too full to accept. They also had live music—a treat after being locked down for so long– and they’re right across from the beach so tables close to the esplanade have lovely views. Duke’s serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Make reservations!

*Grilling at the oceanfront condo we rented took the sting out of cooking on vacation.*

After cooking at home for months and months, we found ourselves still cooking on vacation most nights, but the change of scenery made it much more palatable! We stayed in a condo in Kahana our first five nights https://www.vacasa.com/unit/15880 and had a well-equipped kitchen and sparkling clean BBQ grills in the pool area which we used nightly. It was pretty special to grill just feet from the ocean and enjoy our meals on the balcony while whale watching! That’s something we can’t do at home.

*We had rainbows at breakfast, whale watching at lunch, and spectacular sunsets before dinner every night from the balcony at our Hololani rental.*

Our last five nights were at the Westin Nanea, an upscale timeshare on the north end of Ka’anapali. We had a very large two-bedroom unit with an eat-in kitchen and all the amenities we needed. http://marriott.com The pools were busy but the adjacent lawn area and beach were peaceful.

*Both the Westin Nanea and its sister property Ocean Resort Villas further down the beach were buzzing with activity during our stay.*

*We had a fully-equipped kitchen, a dining area plus a balcony with table and chairs at our two-bedroom, two bath villa.*

*There was plenty of room to spread out in our unit at the family-friendly Westin Nanea.*

Dining options on the property were very limited due to Covid but BBQ grills were placed throughout the expansive property so we’d grab a glass of wine and our fish and head down the elevators to cook most nights. We met some lovely people while preparing our meals!

*Guests will find BBQ grills throughout the grounds at the Nanea.*

If you are planning a “self-catering” holiday in Maui where you have a kitchen and/or grill available, be sure to stock up at the Costco near the airport. We got most of the basics, wine, and fantastic fresh fish there. I also picked up a lightweight rain jacket which came in very handy on this trip. You’ll also find chocolate covered macadamia nuts, Hawaiian coffee, and other edible souvenirs at a fraction of the price of the touristy shops around the island. Watch out for the chickens roaming the parking lot!

*These chickens were in Lahaina but their cousins were everywhere– including the Costco parking lot.*

If you don’t have a Costco membership or just want a few things, the Lahaina Safeway will have what you need. We made a trip or two there, as well.

Pick up pies both sweet and savory—it is vacation after all–at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu https://www.leodas.com. There’s always a line but it goes quickly. The Olowalu Lime and Chocolate Macadamia were my favorites!

*Leoda’s is a popular stop for sweet and savory pies, sandwiches and more.*

*Avoid disappointment and go early or order online! Pies sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.*

Right next door is the Olowalu Juice Stand and Farmer’s Market for fresh fruits and vegetables, ice cold coconuts, sweets and more. We watched a Farmer’s Market clerk with a machete make quick work of a coconut, preparing it for a customer in minutes– paper umbrella and all. There’s also a small general store and the Butterfly Farm here.

*Grab one of Olowalu Juice Stand’s tropical smoothies and head next door to the Farmer’s Market where fresh coconuts and pineapples are big sellers.*

*We didn’t go in, but the Butterfly Farm is close to Leoda’s and the Juice Stand in Olowalu.*

After a long year of not traveling, our trip to Maui was just what we needed. It was exciting to be on an airplane again and to spend some time in such a beautiful, tropical paradise—without ever leaving our own country!

*What a wonderful trip after a long year without travel!*

Next up, I’ll share about some of the places we explored in Maui when we weren’t gazing out to sea, watching for whales, and enjoying rainbows!

Note- This article was written in April 2021. Many Covid-related restrictions have changed since that time.

Noah Purifoy’s Amazing Outdoor Sculpture Museum: A High Desert Treasure

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the pandemic. Museums and most cultural outlets were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go.

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses, with more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Welcome

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn-off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

Assemblage Art

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

The Artist

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

Final Work

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. If you’re visiting Southern California, head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work in Joshua Tree. See the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Note: The Noah Purifoy Museum is less than an hour’s drive from Palm Springs, CA. If you’re heading to Modernism Week and have some time, check it out!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This and all material published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reprinted without express permission from the publisher.

Take a Roadtrip on Oregon’s Spectacular Scenic Central Coast

Take a deep breath. On Oregon’s wild Central Coast the air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.

There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do in Coastal Oregon? Let’s start with the whales.

*Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.*

Whale Watching

The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales, 20,000 of them according to some sources, pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.

*Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.*

It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spy hop so close to shore. We learned that spy hopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby. Maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy watching them.

*Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.*

Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.

*Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.*

Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.

*Stop by the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center.*

World’s Smallest Harbor

Make the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center your first stop. When we visited we saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.

*The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep.*

*Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.*

Volunteers can usually be found at coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks .org.

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse

There’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.

*The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.*

Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.

Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.

*The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.*

Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.

*To make the most of your visit make the Interpretive Center your first stop. Admission to the center is free but there is a fee to enter the park.*

*Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.*

Lighthouse Life

After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit.

Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.

*Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps.*

*A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.*

Marine Life

There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!

Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.

Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.

Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.

*Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.*

Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.

Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center

*Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.*

Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.

*Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.*

Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.

*Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development.*

*Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.*

Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave.

The Burrows House

Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19^th and early 20^th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.

*Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s.*

*This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.*

Hatfield Marine Science Center

Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.

Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense
of wonder in visitors of all ages.

*Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.*

The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.

Go Explore

Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.

Devil’s Punchbowl

Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.

*Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore!*

*Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide.*

Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.

Finders Keepers

Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.

Nye Beach

Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.

*It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.*

If You Go

Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.

There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.

Where to Eat

As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. You can’t go wrong with these:

Depoe Bay

Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.

*Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.*

Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.

Gleneden Beach

Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.

*We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them.*

*Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!*

Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.

Newport

Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.

*Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite.*

*The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious.*

*The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.*

We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.

Gleneden Breakfast

Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.

*Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning.*

*Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.*

The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.

Lincoln City

Kyllos- Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.

*We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.*

If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.

This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways… Find more Oregon fun here.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

Note: This article was updated March 30, 2026.

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