Family Fun

A Visit to Friedrichshafen’s Fascinating Zeppelin Museum

zeppelin museum with playground in front of it

Can you resist looking up when the Goodyear blimp passes overhead? Imagine being among the first to spot a zeppelin as the strange looking aircraft floated by 125 years ago. Learn about the iconic airship that once captured the world’s imagination and transformed travel, commerce, and military strategy at a visit to Friedrichshafen’s fascinating Zeppelin Museum.

This engaging, family-friendly museum is perfect for fans of flight, military history, engineering, and adventure. The museum is a must for those fascinated by the Hindenburg disaster.

zeppelin suspended from ceiling — *After 125 years, Zeppelins are still a source of fascination.*

On the Shores of Lake Constance

museum signage about von Zeppelin — *Retired German General von Zeppelin correctly foresaw a rewarding future in the rigid airship.*

Housed in an enormous structure on the shores of Lake Constance, or the Bodensee in German, the Zeppelin Museum tells the story of the airship developed by Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin. A retired German General and an inventor with a penchant for engineering, he foresaw a future where these large, lighter than air, rigid airships would play an important role in transporting goods and people, with both commercial and military applications. For decades, they did just that.

men look at zeppelin models in glass cases

Visitors to the museum learn the science, technology, development and fascinating 125 year history of the airships. Compelling interactive and static exhibits tell the story. The first zeppelins, LZ 1 and LZ 2, were experimental aircraft and used to survey large swaths of Europe from their base in Friedrichshafen.

As von Zeppelin correctly surmised, the German military quickly saw their potential for surveillance and transportation. Consumer applications came soon after when zeppelins were used to transport goods over long distances.

First in Transatlantic Flight

reconstructed zeppelin hull — *The Hindenburg was the fastest way to cross the Atlantic for passengers and goods in 1936. The museum has a partial reconstruction of the airship* and *some of the wreckage from its crash.*

Zeppelins were first flown to destinations within Germany and then across Europe. The fast, economical airships became the first aircraft to carry passengers across the Atlantic Ocean.

By 1936, the Hindenburg carried passengers and up to eight tons of perishable goods like flowers, food, and medicine in its cargo hold for the relatively speedy two-day transAtlantic journey. Zeppelins were also used for polar expeditions including Roald Amundsen’s last fateful trip to rescue Italian explorers at the North Pole.

During Wartime

museum exhibits explain the zeppelin's history — *Zeppelins changed military strategy in WWI but barely played a role in WWII.*

The museum has fascinating exhibitions about the zeppelin’s role in WWI and the subsequent shut down of production demanded by the Allies after Germany’s loss in the conflict. Two of the already-built zeppelins were given as reparations to Italy and France. A third was sent to the USA. German engineers also came to the United States to work with the military to develop an American dirigible program.

Let Your Imagination Soar Aboard the Hindenburg

One of the highlights at the Zeppelin Museum is exploring a partial reconstruction of the Hindenburg. It was one of the largest passenger-carrying zeppelins ever built. The reconstruction was faithfully built adhering to the airship’s original plans.

Enjoy the 1930s Bauhaus design of the surprisingly spacious lounges and public spaces and relax where passengers would have. Peek into the restrooms and down the halls where the passenger cabins are located aboard the luxury airship. It’s clear that traveling by zeppelin was for strictly for those with means.

During the zeppelin’s heyday, 50 to 70 passengers could comfortably travel across the Atlantic to Lakehurst, New Jersey just outside of New York City, or to Brazil’s then capital, Rio de Janeiro. In 1928, the journey to New Jersey aboard the LZ 127 Graf Zeppelin took more than four days, while less than a decade later the Hindenburg could make the crossing in about 50 hours.

The Hindenburg Disaster

*The Hindenburg crash signaled the end of transatlantic passenger flights aboard zeppelins.*

After a transatlantic journey on May 6, 1937, the Hindenburg crashed and burned while landing in Lakehurst, New Jersey. The zeppelin was carrying half its normal passenger load on that flight. Incredibly, of the 97 people aboard, which included 61 crewmen and 36 passengers; 65 lived through the catastrophe while 32 souls perished. The museum contains photos, newsreels and news clips of one of the world’s most infamous air disasters.

An aviation failure of epic proportions, the fiery Hindenburg crash has been studied in minute detail since then. Spoiler alert: While a number of factors (highly combustible hydrogen gas, weather conditions, the flammable coating of the rigid aircraft) may all have played a role, the exact cause of the crash is still a mystery. Many of the most sensational photographs of the burning Hindenburg in the exhibition were taken by Richard Fleischhut, who became known for his photographic portraits of stars like Marlene Dietrich.

An older man and young boy look at an exhibit together — *The Zeppelin Museum is fascinating for visitors of all ages.*

With the development of faster aircraft and public confidence dwindling after the Hindenburg disaster, the era of passenger travel aboard zeppelins came to a close. This was not the end of the zeppelin, however. The museum explores how Hitler’s National Socialist Party leveraged the airships for propaganda purposes and used slave and forced labor brought to Friedrichshafen from across Europe to build zeppelins before and during WWII, even though they knew the airships had limited military usefulness.

A Family Connection

We have a family connection to that dark period of history. We spotted signage in the museum that noted after Allied bombers attacked Friedrichshafen on March 18, 1944, Hitler ordered all military production, including the Zeppelin factory, to move to hastily constructed underground bunkers. It was on that March 18th bombing run that my father-in-law and his B-24 crew mates, who had taken off from Wendling Air Base in the UK, were shot down over Friedrichshafen. They managed to fly their crippled aircraft across Lake Constance and landed in Switzerland, barely avoiding Nazi capture.

photograph and handwriting in an open book — *My father-in-law kept a journal during his internment in Switzerland in 1944. He is in the back row, second from the right, in the crew photo.*

The men were interned in Adelboden, Switzerland for the remainder of the war. The 392^nd bombing group had one of its deadliest days of the war on that mission. Only 10 of the 24 planes that flew to Friedrichshafen that day returned to England.

Models, Statistics, and A Flight Simulator

inside museum sign points to Hindenburg Hall — *Hindenburg Hall is the first stop for many visitors to the Zeppelin Museum.*

The museum has an entire gallery dedicated to the Hindenburg. In addition to models, photographs, and plenty of fascinating facts, the largest surviving pieces of Hindenburg wreckage are on display here; the rudder bearing arm and part of the tail unit.

In Zeppelin Hall, aviation fans can geek out over routes, statistics, comparisons, and models of various aircraft. There is a lot to see here. In addition to aircraft models, visitors can admire the luxurious Mercedes-Maybach custom-built for Herr Zeppelin, as well as other classic cars on exhibit.

*The museum explores the science, technology, and social impact of zeppelins. Be sure to see the advertisements for passenger travel.*

Ever wonder what makes a gas balloon rise or how airship gears and engines work? Visitors can learn the basics of flight technology and the science behind airships, and use the museum’s NT Zeppelin flight simulator to embark on a scientific research mission. The interactive stations bring the technology of zeppelins to life and are a hit with visitors of all ages.

The Wunderkammer: A Cabinet of Wonders

The zeppelin’s soaring popularity in the 1930s created a huge market for all things airship-related including clocks, coins, toys, and tableware. Based on 16^th century collector’s cabinets, the Wunderkammer is a treasure trove of 350 zeppelin-inspired items that can be further explored using the tablets near the displays. I could have spent hours in the Wunderkammer admiring everything from the carousel to miniature zeppelins.

Image and Power

After viewing the extensive exhibitions on the zeppelin’s history, development, role in two world wars, and the merchandise the zeppelin craze spawned; head upstairs to see the photography gallery. Image and Power: Photography in Focus contains fascinating photographs from the museum’s archives and explores the role photographs of the zeppelin played in promoting political agendas and national identity, among other things. The photographs will be on view until April 12, 2026.

photo of hindenburg over manhattan — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

photograph of women looking at zeppelin — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

Art and Restitution

Obligation of Ownership focuses on the provenance of the 40 works of art displayed here from the Bodensee Museum and the ongoing difficulties of reuniting art confiscated or stolen from victims of the Third Reich. The museum scrutinizes its own collection regarding Nazi looting and relocation of cultural treasures, along with a look at art dealers who played a role. Even 80 years after the end of the war, restitution work continues.

painting of a woman on a wall — *The challenge of reuniting art with its rightful owners continues 80 years after WWII ended.*

Take a Walk

After your visit to the Zeppelin Museum, take some time to explore Friedrichshafen. More than half of the city was destroyed by bombing during WWII, but today there are beautiful public gardens to stroll in, lovely churches to visit, and plenty of coffee shops, bars, and restaurants to relax in while you take in the views across Lake Constance to Switzerland’s magnificent mountains.

sculpture along the shores of lake constance

As you stroll along the Lake Constance shoreline take a moment to enjoy the public art including Helmut Lutz’s Sound Ship (above left), a carved wooden toad who appears to be watching the sunset over Switzerland (center), and a memorial to Herr von Zeppelin (right) in the park across from the water. There’s also a pedestrian shopping zone nearby if you’re looking for some retail therapy.

Practicalities: Plan Your Trip

We stayed at the charming Hotel Villino, a Relais & Chateau property in Bodolz, a 30-minute drive from Friedrichshafen. The Villino is a delightful, family-owned property with 21 beautifully decorated, comfortable rooms and suites. It is surrounded by gardens in a peaceful countryside setting and has a spa on the property. The hotel was the ideal base for exploring the Bodensee region and a pleasure to return to after day trips throughout the area.

The Villino boasts a Michelin-starred dining room with two elegant multi-course pre-fix menus with an Italian-Asian flair. We enjoyed the restaurant very much, both at breakfast and dinner. Reservations are essential for dinner.

Eat Like a Local

We also enjoyed dining in nearby Lindau at Hotel Restaurant Alte Post, known for traditional Styrian and Swabian cuisine like schnitzel, roasts, spaetzle, and fish dishes. It was the perfect place for dinner before catching a performance of Swan Lake at the Lindau Marionettenoper a few streets away. (Get tickets to see a show if you can; it’s a delightful experience.) In the warmer weather Alte Post’s beer garden is open, serving beverages and hearty fare. Be sure to reserve as the restaurant is very popular with residents and visitors.

plates of food — Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

For a very local experience, head to Bodolzer Dorfstubel in Bodolz. This casual eatery offers German dishes like schnitzel, spaetzle, wurstsalat, steaks, and stews. Our waiter, who didn’t speak English comfortably (I relied on Google translate) pulled up the restaurant’s Instagram account and showed us photos of the food to help us choose. It was a tasty meal that left us too full for dessert.

The Bodensee

The Bodensee region encompasses Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Lichtenstein, and offers travelers a world of cultural activities and culinary opportunities, along with boating, hiking, and other outdoor pursuits. The Zeppelin Museum is just one of the highlights in area filled with them. Be sure to get a Bodensee PLUS card for free admission to the Zeppelin Museum and 160 other attractions in the Lake Constance region. Visit traveltawk.com again soon for more stories on the fascinating cross-cultural Bodensee.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Have a Wellness Weekend in the Black Forest

fall foliage surrounds a pond with ducks

The charming German town of Badenweiler in the foothills of the Black Forest has been drawing wellness seekers for millennia. They come for the healing, mineral-rich waters to relax and find relief for everything from stress to rheumatism. A tradition since the Romans were here, we devoted our weekend in Badenweiler to bathing, both ancient and modern.

inside ancient Roman ruins of a bathing complex — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

signage about the romans who built these baths — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

In addition to lovely, wooded scenery, hiking trails, and the thermal waters that flow from under the Black Forest, Badenweiler boasts some of the most expansive and best-preserved Roman baths north of the Alps. We were excited to visit them. We followed a small group of people down a leafy walkway into a public park. There we found the glass pavilion that protects this archeological wonder. We paid 3 euro each to pass through the turnstile and travel back in time, way back.

Roman Rituals

The extraordinary 2,000-year-old ruins include the caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Our guide, Dominick, explained the hot, tepid, and cold baths were visited in that order. Cold plunges, popular today, are nothing new. Thousands of years ago the ancient Romans were well-versed in the therapeutic benefits of thermal waters of varying temperatures.

Community baths played an important role in Roman life. They were used not just to bathe, but also to socialize and keep up on politics and local news. Their baths also often included steam rooms and relaxing areas for this reason.

Ruins of a Roman bath complex — *The extensive bathing complex is one of the best preserved n*orth of the Alps.

Roman sculpture, grooming aids, and even a replica of typical Roman wooden bathing shoes are among the exhibits inside the pavilion. These platform sandals protected bathers’ feet from the hot floors inside the caldarium. Dominick was brimming with historical and entertaining facts about the Romans who settled in this part of Germany and built this elaborate bathing complex.

ancient pipes used in the bathing complex — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Replica of Roman bathing shoes — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Roman soldiers were often paid in land and encouraged to settle permanently in the areas they had been sent to conquer. This was the case in Badenweiler. Settler soldiers built these baths to enjoy the same rituals and amenities they would have enjoyed at home. Badenweiler’s healing thermal waters likely made these even more appealing.

Take the Tour

man in front of informational panels — *Our guide helped bring the ancient ruins to life. He gave the tour and answered questions in German and English.*

Visitors walk through and over the remarkable ruins on accessible walkways and have a bird’s eye view of all areas of the baths. Our guide explained the significance of each area in both German and English. Everyone in our small group spoke one or the other language. After a very informative hour-long walk through the Roman complex, Dominick led us out into the park surrounding the baths.

walkway over ancient ruins in the glass pavilion — *Walkways over and through the ruins make the complex accessible to all.*

Using our mobile phones to light the way we ducked through a small doorway, one by one. Dark and dank, we had entered a recreated ancient Roman drainage channel which had originally served the baths in this very spot. It was constructed in 1998. What a relief it was to return to sunlight after a short time inside the channel.

people exiting a tunnel — *The reconstructed subterranean drainage channel* *shows what masters of architecture the Romans were.*

It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but self-guided visits do not include the drainage channel, well worth seeing, or the wonderful stories Dominick shared that sparked our imagination and brought the distant past to life.

Modern Baths

After exiting the drainage tunnel, we looked up and saw people relaxing on chaise lounges on a broad terrace overlooking the park. They were enjoying the popular Cassiopeia Therme. Next door to the ancient Roman ruins, the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths draw visitors and locals alike to the healing waters within. The modern baths are housed in an impressive classical-style building.

Classical -style building with signage for Cassiopeia Therme — *The Cassiopeia Therme is a popular attraction in Badenweiler and can get crowded on weekends and holidays.*

Guests at these public baths enjoy the same thermal waters the Romans did, in a series of pools of varying temperatures and sizes indoors and out. Temperatures range from 30 to 36 degrees Celsius and are seasonally adjusted. Families, couples young and old, and this pair of American wanderers settled in for a relaxing afternoon in the healing waters.

Don’t Forget Your Towel

people waiting inside a large rotunda building — *People waited patiently to check in for an afternoon at the Cassiopeia Thermal Ba*ths.

This was our first experience in a public bath house. As we queued for entry, we realized we had already made a mistake not bringing towels from our hotel. Everyone else, we noticed, came equipped for the day with shower shoes, robes and towels. We had brought flip flops and swimsuits, but had to rent towels. We must not have been the only ones unprepared. Bathrobes, shower towels and sauna towels were available to rent at registration.

long hallway inside the Cassiopeia Therme — *A long hallway led to the gender-specific locker rooms. The rest of the facility is co-ed.*

Off to the changing rooms we went, locker keys in hand. The changing rooms had large lockers, restrooms, and showers. The faint sulfurous aroma of thermal waters wafted through the humid air as we approached the bathing areas.

No Lazy River

Though the day was overcast and a little cool, we headed to the large heated outdoor pool. People of all ages were clearly enjoying themselves. We saw couples floating hand-in-hand, kids leaping from their parents’ arms, and teenagers racing one another around the pool.

overview of large outdoor pool — *The giant whirlpool was a lot of fun and one of our favorite activities. Photo courtesy of Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH.*

There was a vast, oversized whirlpool at one end of the outdoor pool complex. We jumped in and let the water carry us, trying not to bump the other bathers as we circled, laughing as we moved through the swirling current. This was no lazy-river experience. We quickly figured out we would need an exit strategy to escape the strong current, but it was so much fun, we stayed in the fast-moving water for about a half an hour.

Take a Dip

There were many other pools to sample, so we held hands and made for one of the handles on the side of the pool. It took a few attempts, but we finally grabbed hold and swam out. After a dip at the other end of the huge outdoor pool, we headed indoors. There were a series of smaller pools inside on the ground level. Each had different depths and temperatures that were clearly posted. The smaller and shallower pools were popular (and populated) with young children. We avoided those. After exploring the options, we made a circuit from hottest to coolest pool and repeated it several times.

There were chairs and lounges around all the pools, indoors and out. Just like at home, people had “reserved” their chairs with towels and personal property. We took a short break on the comfortable lounges and enjoyed the view of the park outside.

Sauna Time

signage for thermal baths — *Signs outside the Cassiopeia thermal baths let guests know what to expect inside, including a wellness oasis.*

After enjoying almost all the pools on the ground level, we walked past the busy café and headed upstairs to the sauna area. We had become aufguss enthusiasts during our recent stay at the Adler Balance in Italy’s Dolomites and were looking forward to experiencing Cassiopeia’s saunas.

As we climbed the stairs, we noticed we were heading for an adults-only zone as well as a “textile free” area. This was a relatively new term to us and means simply, no swimsuits (or any other garments) allowed. The policy was evident in the large co-ed pool adjacent to the saunas, where naked bathers swam and floated, blissfully unencumbered by swimwear or self-consciousness.

Textile Free Zone

Another patron, perhaps sensing my foreignness, or hesitation, tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to the sign above the sauna, in German and English, when I failed to disrobe quickly enough. She may have thought I planned to enter the sauna in a swimsuit, which I knew was just not done.

signs inside the baths indicate different services — *These signs advertise the thermal baths and Roman-Irish bath*, *also in the textile free zone.*

Leaving our inhibitions and our swimsuits at the sauna door, we stepped out of our pool shoes and into the least hot (coolest would be a misnomer) of the units first. Cassiopeia has a range of saunas from 55 to 90 degrees Celsius. They include aroma, herbal, Finnish, crystal and infusion saunas.

There is also a Roman-Irish bath in the textile-free zone. That would have been a new experience for us but it was not available during our visit. There was plenty to keep us busy without it.

As we had learned at the Adler, a cold plunge or shower is a must after a sauna, especially if you are hopping back into another, even hotter one, as we were. Sauna, shower, repeat, was our plan. We both decided we enjoyed the hotter saunas and spent most of our time there. Interestingly, the saunas had little windows with a view of the pool. After several times in and out, we checked the posted schedule to see if aufguss was available.

The Aufguss Experience

Aufguss is a super-heated sauna experience usually enhanced by aromatherapy and music. It is led by an athletic (in my experience) and specially trained aufguss meister. Using towels and large handheld fans, the aufguss meister directs the hot air around the chamber and melts aroma-containing ice balls emitting scents ranging from relaxing pine forest to uplifting citrus into the sauna. Sadly, we had already missed the aufguss sessions scheduled for the day.

Glowing from our swim and sauna, and fully relaxed, we headed back to the locker room to shower and bid farewell to the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths. Our ancient and modern bathing experiences in Badenweiler were memorable. We’d return to Cassiopeia Therme in a heartbeat, this time with our own towels and robes.

If You Go

Roman Baths

glass pavilion over roman ruins in a park setting — *Take the guided tour to fully appreciate these extraordinary 2,000 year-old Roman baths.*

Tours of the ancient bathing complex are offered Sunday mornings at 11 throughout the year, with an additional one on Tuesdays at 4 pm during summer months. It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but we felt ours added a great deal to our visit.

There is signage, but in German only. Our guide was very helpful and we also used Google Translate to decipher many of the signs. The tour inside the pavilion is accessible to all, but the underground channel is not. Tour group size is limited. Book in advance.

Modern Baths

sign with historical information about the baths — *SIgnage shows how the Cassiopeia Therme has been modernized over its long history.*

Public baths are very popular in the Black Forest and Sunday is a busy day for them, as we learned first-hand. Guests of all ages from toddlers to octogenarians enjoy their time there. Bring your swimsuit, shower shoes, a robe, and a towel. Leave jewelry and valuables in your hotel’s safe. You will need a credit card or other payment method for your day pass, any food or beverages, and towel rental if you forget your own.

Be prepared to shed your swimwear and inhibitions at the sauna door and anywhere you see signs indicating “textile free” areas.

If you plan to shower in the locker rooms, bring your own grooming products.

The Cassiopeia Baths have a café for light meals and beverages. There is a lovely terrace overlooking the grounds and the Roman baths you can relax on.

We were guests of the Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH for the Roman Baths tour and visit to Casseopeia Therme.

Sleeping and Eating

Schwartzmatt Hotel

large yellow hotel building — *The Hotel Schwarzmatt made a great base for exploring the Black Forest and Badenweiler.*

We stayed in Badenweiler at the very comfortable Hotel Schwartzmatt, a member of the luxury Relais & Chateau group. We opted for half-board as our stay was in low season and many restaurants in town were not open. The hotel restaurant, which served a varied and delicious menu focusing on local dishes, was open only to hotel guests in late autumn. There were a few coffee shops and boutiques open in town, but it was quiet. Summer is the busy season here.

Wellness Oasis

The Hotel Schwarzmatt has a “wellness oasis” featuring a steam bath, Finnish and Bio saunas, an indoor pool, a sun pavilion and terrace. The spa offers massages and other treatments and there is a fitness room. These facilities are only available to hotel guests. We didn’t have time for any treatments but enjoyed the steam room, saunas and pool.

Written and photographed (I could not take photos in the baths for obvious reasons) by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Why Spring is a Great Time to Visit Amalfi

By mid-March, most of us in the Northern Hemisphere are tired of winter. Our thoughts turn to cloudless blue skies, tourmaline waters, and sun-dappled landscapes. Italy’s Amalfi Coast with its breathtaking views, pristine beaches, and lemons as big as your head, comes immediately to mind. Mild temperatures, a relaxed pace, and relative lack of crowds make Spring the perfect time to travel to what is considered a dream destination by many. Here’s what I discovered on my Springtime trip to Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello.

Beat the Crowds

Amalfi's seaside esplanade with tables and closed umbrella under a blue sky — *Visit Amalfi before Easter and enjoy this dream destination without the crowds.*

Easter marks the beginning of the season in Amalfi and elsewhere in Campania. We decided to visit right before the holiday, hoping to beat the crowds as we had the previous week in the seaside village of Castellabate di Santa Maria. About two hours drive south of Amalfi on the Cilento Coast, there were few tourists and many shops and restaurants remained closed during our stay. Our hotel, the Palazzo Belmonte, was in its “soft opening” period and the restaurant, pool, and beach club hadn’t opened yet but we had great fun exploring this less discovered area. After a five-night stay, Amalfi beckoned so we packed up the rental car and headed north.

sitting room with sunset view outside the window — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

large bedroom with floral printed rug, a settee with pink pillows and a king bed with red printed coverlet — *Breakfast was served in our suite’s sitting room each morning.*

We had barely turned on to the coastal road that winds its way across the Sorrento Peninsula, when we came nose-to-nose with an enormous city bus. I was terrified. I couldn’t even take a photo as my husband slowly backed up the narrow roadway into a spot wide enough to let the bus pass. This, I thought, is why people hire professional drivers to get around the Amalfi Coast. It was not the last time I would have this realization.

*Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

bus takes both lanes of the road around a corner — *Driving on the Amalfi Coast is harrowing. Try not to, unless you have nerves of steel!*

We soldiered on towards Amalfi, holding our collective breath as we inched by buses and other cars on narrow, hairpin turns. With a sigh of relief, we arrived at DieciSedici.

An Albergo Diffuso

After checking in at the reception desk, we were directed to the building next door. Though billed as a boutique hotel, DieciSedici was more of an albergo diffuso. We had unwittingly booked a room in a residential building, not a proper hotel. This kind of lodging, where “hotel” rooms can be in different buildings, or diffused, is not uncommon in Italy and is fine if you don’t need 24/7 on-site assistance.

old pink stucco residential building with a couple walking twoards it — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

hotel room with bed, desk and two windows — *Our boutique hotel room was in this residential building.*

Beware the Stairs

When the receptionist mentioned there were stairs and no lift, we asked for help with the bags. Even though we travel with only carry-on bags, we were glad we did. Leo assisted us up the 64 stone steps leading to our room. As we climbed, we learned that breakfast, included with the stay, was served at the Bistro F. Illi Pansa where he worked. It was about a 10-minute walk away in the historic center.

Steep stone steps inside a residential building — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

man and donkeys walking down the street in Amalfi — *There are steep stairs everywhere in Amalfi. This was the first flight leading to our room at the DieciSedici.*

While we settled in, the receptionist had someone from a nearby garage come and spirit our rental car away. She instructed us to call 45 minutes before we needed the car again, but discouraged us from driving in the area at all.

Our room was large, clean, and comfortable. It had a spacious bathroom with a heated towel rack, a small refrigerator, and an electric tea kettle. We could even see a sliver of the sea from our Juliette balcony. After catching our breath, we headed back down the steep steps to explore Amalfi.

The Heart of Amalfi

people gathered by an ancient fountain having a drink and filling waer bottles — *The beautiful Baroque Fountain of St. Andrew, across from Amalfi’s cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo, is a popular spot to get a drink or fill a water bottle.*

We walked along the sparkling sea front, past many restaurants not yet open for the season, and a few busily preparing for the evening’s guests. There were some pedestrians and bicyclists on the promenade but nothing like I’d seen in summertime photos.

*Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

cafe with white table clothes and women sitting at a table — *Amalfi was quiet outside the city center.*

After passing the transportation hub where boats to Capri and Positano, and buses to Ravello, Sorrento and other points on the peninsula arrive and depart, we entered a pedestrian tunnel. Minutes later we found ourselves on the Piazza del Duomo in the heart of Amalfi’s historic old town staring in awe at the spectacular cathedral that is the city’s centerpiece.

Amalfi’s Duomo

Cathedral of St. Andrew's Byzantine facade with golden mosaics — *The Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle’s facade is spectacular day or night.*

Built between the 9^thand 12^th centuries, the Cathedral of St. Andrew the Apostle is a masterwork in golden mosaics that gleam in the Mediterranean sunshine. We watched as the elegant façade with its bronze Byzantine doors drew wedding couples and their photographers, and Instagrammers galore. The restaurant where we would enjoy breakfast each morning was directly across from the cathedral, providing us with endless people-watching opportunities with our morning cappuccino.

view of the cathedral in Amalfi with people sitting and standing on the steps — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

people seated at tables in a cafe — *The steps of Amalfi’s Cathedral are a popular meeting place and a magnet for selfie-seekers.*

After queuing for a much-needed gelato at Cioccolato Andrea Pansa, we bought tickets to visit the cathedral. It features Gothic, Romanesque, Byzantine and Arab-Norman architectural styles and is one of the most popular sites in Amalfi. Architect Enrico Alvino designed the ornately decorated facade after an 1861 collapse damaged the front and atrium of the church.

*The opulent interior of Amalfi’s duomo, dedicated to St. Andrew the Apostle.*

fresco with angels and dove — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Byzantine painting of the Holy family — *The small Diosean Museum inside the Basilica of the Crucifix holds frescoes, religious artifacts and art.*

Our 3 Euro visit included the Cathedral and adjoining Basilica of the Crucifix and its crypt. St. Andrews’ relics are there. There is also a small Diocesan museum with frescoes, sculpture and religious art inside the Basilica. Outside, we toured the peaceful Cloister of Paradise, once a burial ground for nobility.

Amalfi’s Famous Fruit

On our walk around town, we saw plenty of evidence of Amalfi’s number one citrus crop. Lemons, limoncello, lemon soap, lemon candles, lemon ice, lemon-embellished clothing, lemon everything was for sale everywhere. At dinner at Pizzeria Donna Stella, we had a table on the upstairs terrace. Lemons were growing overhead.

People in front of the Bottega di Limone, a shop selling lemon-based products and lemon-embellished clothes. — *Lemon everything is sold* *in towns across the Sorrento Peninsula*. Upstairs is one of my favorite restaurants, Da Gemma.

man at a table with lemon trees growing in restaurant — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

A display of various lemon-themed products and souvenirs, including bottles of limoncello, candies, and lemon-infused items, all neatly arranged in wooden crates with price tags. — *Lemon trees are part of the decor at Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi.*

Mistakes Were Made or How Not to Get to Pompeii

On our first full day in Amalfi, we planned to visit Pompeii. Earlier in the trip, we spent five days in Naples. From there, we took day trips by train to explore the nearby ruins in Herculaneum and spectacular palace and gardens at Reggia Caserta. We could have easily taken the Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii from Naples, but thought it would be better to drive from Amalfi. It was not.

frescoes on the walls of an ancient villa in Pompeii — *We were richly rewarded with the chance to see ancient frescoes in Pompeii’s intact villas, though the drive there was harrowing.*

No one was available to bring us our car, so we made our way up the steep streets to the garage, passing sure-footed donkeys on the way. Back in our car, we drove down the narrow main street, ever so slowly, past startled shoppers, stand after stand of lemon-themed merchandise, cafes, and coffee shops until we reached the road out of town.

crowd of people waiting at Pompeii — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

teenagers with their backs to viewer wearing Maradona jerseys — *It doesn’t matter when you visit Pompeii. There will be crowds.*

For what seemed like an eternity, we drove up harrowing, hairpin turns around the mountain and down the other side. I was exhausted by the time we reached Pompeii, and I wasn’t even behind the wheel. It was well worth the nerve-wracking journey to explore the extensive and fascinating archeological site and we spent the entire day there. I’ll share about that experience in another article, but we should have taken the train from Naples. Or hired a driver in Amalfi.

Ravello

bronze statue of Bacchus with child holding grapes on his shoulders — *Villa Cimbrone’s gardens, my main reason for coming to Ravello, are filled with sculpture, fountains and spectacular views.*

I was not ready to get back in the car after our Pompeii outing, but had always wanted to visit the gardens at the Villa Cimbrone in Ravello. Buses runs every half hour from Amalfi and cost 1.50 Euro each way, cash only. The decision was an easy one.

sign saying bus ticket here cash only — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

two men on a motorscooter in front of two buses that say Amalfi on them — *We use credit cards for almost everything when traveling, but sometimes you do need cash.*

Up, up, up we went on those now familiar hairpin turns, the ride accompanied by the sounds of squealing bus tires and a blaring horn warning other drivers that we were coming. Buses takes up both lanes of the narrow road so alerting others is a matter of safety.

About a half an hour later, we arrived in Ravello. We hiked through the ancient town and climbed the winding 100 steps to the celebrated Villa Cimbrone. The Villa dates to the 12^th century and has long attracted literary luminaries including members of the Bloomsbury Group like Virginia Woolf and E.M.Forster, celebrities, and bold face names such as Greta Garbo, Winston Churchill, Tennessee Williams and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

formal gardens with umbrella trees and stone wall — *Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

*Vila Cimbrone’s gardens were not really in bloom in March but it was delightful to stroll through the gorgeous grounds.*

Someday I’d love to stay at the five- star hotel, but I’d set my sights on the botanical gardens for this visit. For 10 Euro, visitors can explore the property’s expansive English-Italo style gardens, redesigned in the early 20^th century by Lord Grimthorpe (Ernest William Beckett) with advice from celebrated English garden designer Vita Sackville-West. In March, the gardens were not in full bloom, but it was still a wonderful experience to stroll the sprawling grounds, admire the superb sculpture, and enjoy sensational views from the Terrace of Infinity high above the sea.

terrace overlooking the sea with marble statues — *Standing on the Terrace of Infinity, you’ll quickly understand how it got its name.*

There were few other visitors in Villa Cimbrone’s gardens that sunny March day, but the restaurants and cafes we passed on our way back to Ravello’s historic city center were buzzing.

The Villa Rufolo and the Ravello Festival

a view from above of gardens at Villa Rufolo — *A view of Villa Rufolo’s gardens, home to the Ravello Festival*.

Another highlight of our day in Ravello was a visit to the Villa Rufolo. It’s right off the Piazza Vescavado, the main square, and home to the acclaimed Ravello Festival that takes place every summer. The festival features world-renowned symphony orchestras, soloists, and ensembles, and will celebrate its 74^th season in 2026. The festival runs from July 4 to September 5 and is the reason Ravello refers to itself as the “City of Music”.

gardens with large palm tree and the sea in the distance — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

inside view of a large pink room with tile floors and a glass chandelier — *Some of the flower beds at Villa Rufolo were in bloom.*

Our self-guided tour included the upper rooms, Knight’s Hall, chapel, theater, cloisters, magnificent gardens and belvedere overlooking the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea. We could only imagine what a memorable experience it would be to attend a performance on these spectacular grounds with the gardens and sea as a backdrop.

At the bus stop, we were surprised by the size of the crowd that had gathered. Apparently, it had been an hour or more since the last bus had appeared. One finally came 30 minutes later. Even with the wait, the crowded bus was better than driving.

Amalfi’s Maritime Museum

overview of Maritime Museum with vaulted arches and displays in glass cases — *The Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum, located in Amalfi’s Arsenal, holds 1,000 years of nautical, scientific, and cultural history.*

There’s more to see in Amalfi than the Cathedral and shops. Amalfi was once one of the most important maritime centers and trading hubs on the Mediterranean. Nearly 1,000 years of the city’s nautical, scientific, and cultural history are stored in the Arsenal, home to the Compass and Maritime Duchy Museum.

replica of blue ship with golden horse — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

small stone statue of a young man siting with hand on his head — *Amalfi was once an important trading port. The Maritime Museum preserves that fascinating history.*

The museum showcases the evolution of nautical navigation equipment including the compass. The compass is a Chinese invention but Amalfitano Flavio Gioia was once credited with its creation. It was later acknowledged to have been brought to Amalfi by sailors who had traveled to China.

One of the antique yellow compasses on display — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

night view of fountain and bronze statue of a man — *The Maritime Museum boasts an impressive display of navigational equipment including numerous kinds of compasses.*

The museum’s collections include Roman and medieval treasures, coins, and manuscripts like the Tabula de Amalpha. This important document of maritime law, written in Latin, was used until the 16^th century. Maritime equipment, art, religious artifacts, and period costumes are also on exhibit. Additional exhibitions are on display in the Salone Morelli in the Town Hall.

Amalfi also has a Paper Museum, the Museo della Carta. I would have loved to visit but ran out of time.

Positano

After too much touring and driving, we hopped on a boat for the less than 30- minute ride to Positano. With the sun shining and wind in our hair, we were finally beginning to relax and enjoy the Amalfi Coast.

*There were plenty of seats on the boat to and from Positano, not likely the case once tourist season begins.*

Positano was exactly as I imagined; soaring cliffs dotted with citrus and olive groves, vineyards, and homes perched precariously high above the sea. Our plan was to have a wander, visit a church, see the shops, and have lunch by the beach. That seemed be the itinerary for most visitors.

men moving large palm trees by the beach — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

people sitting in chairs on the beach in Positano — *Workers planted palms and prepared for the coming Easter weekend*.

Just like in Amalfi, not everything in Positano was open yet, but would be soon. Workers were very busy preparing for the Easter weekend ahead, which officially kicks off the busy season. Shops and restaurants that had been closed all winter were being swept and windows washed. From our seaside table at Chez Black, we watched as workers erected umbrellas and set up chairs on the beach. They were even busily planting palm trees in the sand.

people eating in a cafe with striped awning that says Chez Black — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

exterior of church with small labyrinth in front of it — *We enjoyed a casual seaside lunch at Chez Black. The Positano restaurant was busy midweek before Easter.*

As we wandered the unexpectedly crowded streets, we saw racks of summer clothes outside in the sunshine, surrounded by shoppers. I have never seen so many lemon-embellished clothes, hats, shoes, and home décor as I did that one afternoon in Positano. After eating and drinking, shopping is a very popular pastime in Positano.

Before leaving Positano, we stopped at the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. We walked the small labyrinth outside the church and took some time in the church’s serene interior to reflect on our good fortune.

On the boat back to Amalfi, I spied a gentleman sporting a straw hat with lemon trimmed band, lemon-embroidered shirt, shorts, and espadrilles. His companion was similarly attired. He told me he was from Milwaukee and on the trip of a lifetime. He certainly had the souvenirs to show for it.

If You Go:

*The sun sets on the Tree of Life on Amalfi’s blissfully quiet esplanade before the “season” begins.*

Don’t wait for summer to travel when the number of tourists and temperatures soar.

Consider hiring a driver or using buses and boats to get around the Amalfi Coast. Driving is treacherous and not for the faint of heart. Boats and buses leave from the harbor (Porto di Amalfi) on a regular schedule or you can hire a private boat. Taxis are also readily available.

Tourism is the main industry in Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and most towns on the Sorrento Peninsula. Be prepared to pay accordingly and extravagantly for almost everything.

If you struggle with mobility issues, be aware that streets are narrow, often cobbled, and hilly. There are stairs nearly everywhere you go, inside and outside.

Practicalities: Where to Eat, Where to Stay in Amalfi

We enjoyed our daily gelato stop at Ciocolatta Andrea Pansa, breakfast at Bistro F. Illi Pansa (included with our room rate), and dinners at Da Gemma, Ristorante L’Abside, and Pizzeria Donna Stella in Amalfi. Antica Trattoria Barracca also came highly recommended and it was good, but we liked the others more.

We chose Amalfi as our base to explore the Sorrento Peninsula with the exception of two nights in Sorrento. We stayed at the Hilton Sorrento Palace before returning to Naples for a flight to Sicily. If you don’t mind climbing many steep stairs and don’t need a front desk with 24-hour assistance, DieciSedici is well-located. There are hotels at varying price points and levels of service, including some luxury properties like La Sirenuse, Il San Pietro di Positano, and Hotel Eden Roc all in Positano, plus Air BnBs, to choose from throughout the peninsula. Make your reservations far in advance, no matter when you plan to visit this popular destination.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Maui Magic: A Blowhole, Beach Hike and Dragon’s Teeth

After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales and finally, it was the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!

*What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?*

Nakalele

The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.

*The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!*

Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.

*Park on the shoulder.* *There’s no official parking area here.*

*There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.*

If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.

*The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery*.

*We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!*

Beware the Blowhole

Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.

*These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.*

You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.

*Stay safe and stay clear of the blowhole even when it isn’t active.*

Safety First!

This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.

The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.

*You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.*

We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.

Beachtime

We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.

*Enjoy the beautiful coastline as you make your way down Maui’s winding roads.*

At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.

*Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.*

D.T. Fleming Beach

D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!

*Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.*

The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.

*Bring your own chairs and picnic lunch. Services can be limited on many beaches.*

We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.

*The surf was rough and the lifeguards were busy!*

After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.

*This monument marks* *an ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.*

Take a Hike

The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.

*The going got rough, and slippery, the further out on the point we ventured.*

*The scenery was breathtaking from Makaluapuna Point.*

Dragon’s Teeth

The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!

*Take time to walk the labyrinth and reflect.*

There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.

The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?

Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!

Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

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Portugal’s Mysterious Megaliths and Where to Find Them

*Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arqueologia has numerous treasures including megaliths.*

We saw our first megalith in Lisbon’s Museum of Archeology and we were intrigued. What were these stones with their strange markings? Where could we see more of them? It turns out the largest collection of megaliths on the Iberian peninsula is located less than two hours from Lisbon in the Alentejo region not far from Evora, the area’s capital city.

*Drive in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees to reach Almendres Cromlech.*

There are numerous places to see megaliths in Portugal, many in the Alentejo. Cromeleque dos Almendres, or Almendres Cromlech, is the largest and most prominent site. Older than Stonehenge, Cromeleque dos Almendres is located about seven kilometers off the main road, the N114, driving towards Evora from Lisbon. SInce we had planned to visit Evora after Lisbon we decided to include a stop to see these archaeological wonders.

*The megaliths are in a large clearing, surrounded by cork oak trees.*

Head in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees. The dirt road is clearly marked with signs pointing you in the direction of Cromeleque dos Almendres and Menhir dos Almendres. You will either need to drive or take a taxi to get here. There is no public transportation available.

There were no services or visitors center on our first visit to see the menhirs, but now there is. The Centro Interpretativo dos Alemendres near the tiny town of Guadalupe is a welcome addition to the area. In addition to outdoor panels with educational information in Portuguese and English, the Center has a helpful staff, restrooms, a small cafe and a gift shop. You can get a map showing the location of other megaliths here, as well as additional information about the area.

*Visitors can wander freely around the 95 remaining megaliths, or menhirs, at Almendres Cromlech.*

About 95 of the granite megaliths, also called menhirs, still stand in the area and date back to the Neolithic Period (4^th and 5^th century BC). The stones at Almendres Cromlech are arranged to form two rings and visitors are free to wander all around the area, though touching the stones is discouraged.

The earliest stones were believed to have been placed here in 6000 BC and that ancient peoples used the area at Almendres Cromlech until 3000 BC for religious purposes. There is still a great deal of mystery surrounding the purpose of the stones, their placement and the markings on them, but there is speculation that the site had astrological significance due to its latitudinal location.

*The placement, purpose and meaning of the megaliths remains largely a mystery.*

There is a map of the enclosure on site, which identifies particular menhirs and describes various markings on the different stones.

*Helpful signs in English and Portuguese explain the history of Almendres Cromlech and a map of the area shows where the most important stones are located.*

*This is identified as megalith number 1 on the posted diagram. The markings are clearly visible.*

*A careful examination is required to see the ancient markings on many of the stones. Here’s a close up look at one.*

*Admission to the site is free. Guided tours can be arranged.*

We chose to take a self-guided exploration of the area but guided tours can be easily arranged. We met a Canadian couple who had hired a tour company to take them out to Almendres Cromlech. The tour company provided transport and their well-informed guide explained the mysteries of this ancient site to them. They thoroughly enjoyed their visit.

Admission to the site is free and there is plenty of parking.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright laws and may not be reprinted without permission.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Note: This post was updated Aug. 2026.

Noah Purifoy’s Amazing Outdoor Sculpture Museum: A High Desert Treasure

I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the pandemic. Museums and most cultural outlets were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go.

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses, with more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Welcome

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn-off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

Assemblage Art

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

The Artist

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

Final Work

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. If you’re visiting Southern California, head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work in Joshua Tree. See the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.

Note: The Noah Purifoy Museum is less than an hour’s drive from Palm Springs, CA. If you’re heading to Modernism Week and have some time, check it out!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This and all material published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reprinted without express permission from the publisher.

The Amazing Earth Pyramids of Renon/Ritten

I have a fear of heights. I’ll admit it. Standing at the cable car station in Bolzano/Bozen and staring up at the impressive mountain I was about to ascend made me a little queasy, but I hadn’t come all this way to miss out on my very first hike in the Dolomites. Specifically, a hike to see the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.

*The cable car is the fastest and easiest way to reach Soprabolzano/Oberbozen.*

We boarded the red gondola along with a group of young men laden with picnic provisions and camping gear and up we went. I choked back my apprehension and concentrated on the incredible views as we climbed higher and higher up the mountain toward SopraBolzano/Oberbozen.

*The views are exceptional as you ascend the 1221 meters to the mountaintop.*

It’s possible to take a bus or drive up the steep switchbacks to reach the town, but the cable car is much faster and easier. It departs every four minutes and takes less than 15 minutes to reach the top– 1221 meters above Bolzano/Bozen.

*Hikers and campers shared our gondola for the 15-minute ride.*

The cable car deposits you right across the street from the historic narrow- gauge Renon/Ritten Railroad. Be sure to buy a round trip combo ticket for the cable car and the railroad when you purchase your ticket at the Bolzano/Bozen station.

*The historic railroad has been carrying passengers since 1907.*

Trains run every 30 minutes during peak daytime hours. Climb aboard and enjoy the mountain views on the 20-minute ride from SopraBolzano/Oberbozen to Collalbo/Klobenstein. We passed farms, cows, hikers and traditional Alpine A-frame homes as we whizzed by to the end of the line.

*We zipped along through the beautiful Alpine countryside enjoying the views.*

It’s a short walk from the station through a residential neighborhood to the center of Collalbo/ Klobenstein where lunch can be had a several restaurants. Most seemed to offer the same traditional South Tyrol dishes but the two we had our eye on were closing shortly and wouldn’t seat us.

*The path from the train station into Collalbo/Klobenstein goes through a residential area.*

It’s a pleasant stroll from the train station and fun to see all the carefully tended gardens along the way.

*One of the gardens we passed was creatively decorated with gnomes and a Disney princess.*

It was disappointing to be turned away from several restaurants because we arrived too close to the kitchen closing, but we kept searching!

*Sleek Zentral was a welcome sight for these hungry travelers.*

We were directed to Zentral by a harried hostess and off we went in search of sustenance. We were not disappointed and were soon tucking into a perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel and a tasty mushroom and polenta dish. We had a crisp local white wine with the meal and finished up with some house made gelato.

*Crisp, perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel was just right for lunch.*

Menus in the Sud Tirol usually feature Austrian and Italian influenced dishes and are always seasonal.

*A medley of local mushrooms atop polenta was outstanding.*

Save room for dessert! Cakes and gelato are always on offer.

There is a mix of Austrian and Italian influences in this autonomous area of Italy, which was a part of Austria until the end of World War I. German is the predominant and preferred language in the Sud Tirol, though signage and menus are generally printed in German, Italian and sometimes English. You’ll find many people speak English, particularly in hotels, shops and restaurants here.

*Signs indicate directions and show how long it will take to reach your destination.*

After a satisfying lunch we headed off towards our destination—Longomoso/Lengmoos and the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten. It’s an easy 30-minute hike from town to see these natural wonders, said to be Europe’s highest and most perfectly shaped examples of the boulder- topped pillars.

*It’s an easy 30- minute hike to the earth pyramids.*

Paths are well-marked and part of the way to the earth pyramids is paved.

*Signs in German and Italian point the way.*

The views just get better and better as you continue your hike!

*The earth pyramids at Renon/Ritten are 25,000 years old.*

Called erdpyramiden in German or piramidi di terra in Italian, the conical pillars were formed 25,000 years ago from the moraine clay soil left behind when the last of the Ice Age glaciers covering the Valle d’Isarco melted away. It takes thousands of years for earth pyramids to form and the process is a dynamic one.

*These earth pyramids are said to be the highest and most perfectly shaped in Europe.*

In dry weather, the soil is rock hard, but rain softens the earth and carries away the soil. The rocks left behind in the mud protect the clay soil beneath them, which rises from the earth to form the pyramids—capped by the boulders that allowed them to develop. As older earth pyramids collapse, new ones form. They really are spectacular to see!

*New pillars are formed as the older ones collapse.*

These are some of the most impressive earth pyramids in the world and some of the oldest!

*The boulders capping the pyramids protect them and allow them to develop.*

At the end of the trail from Collalbo/Klobenstein, there is a large viewing platform with panoramic vistas over the valley to the earth pyramids in the nearby gorge, with maps and helpful information in German, Italian and English. We were lucky to have the platform to ourselves much of the time, though during busy summer months the popular site draws crowds.

Keep going– enjoy the views and pose for a silly picture at the top.

Many natural sites in this area have maps that include highlights of the area and give a sense of place.

*Informational signs are in German, Italian and English at this popular site.*

After enjoying the sensational view of the earth pyramids for quite some time, we began the hike back. We came upon the Café Erdpyramiden along the way.

*We were happy to find the cafe open as there are no services or facilities near the viewing platform.*

The cafe is a handy stop since there are no facilities at the viewing platform or along the trail to reach it.

*Stop in for coffee, cold drinks, snacks and local wine.*

It’s a great place to enjoy the view, have a drink and a snack and use the facilities!

*Bring your drink out on the back terrace and enjoy a last look at the earth pyramids.*

A pleasant stroll back past historic buildings, churches, homes, a pond and grazing cows took us back to town and the train station.

*It’s a beautiful walk through the countryside to and from the earth pyramids.*

Enjoy the walk back– it’s an easy trek.

*It’s hard to get lost with signage everywhere!*

Our timing was perfect and five minutes later we were chugging along toward home, which in our case was the Nepora Design Hotel in nearby Settequerce.

*Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours and we timed our return perfectly.*

We wandered around SopraBolzano/Oberbozen, admiring the views and checking out lodging for a future trip before heading back down to Bolzano/Bozen on the cable car.

*The comfortable lobby at Gloriette Guesthouse. Love the baby buggy bar.*

We popped in the the Gloriette Guesthouse to check it out for a return visit to the area.

*We had a nice wander around the town of Soprabolzano/Oberbozen before heading to the cable car.*

*Making our descent into the center of Bolzano/Bozen after a wonderful day in the Dolomites.*

We will definitely return to this spectacular area and its natural wonders and suggest you add it to your list, too. In the meantime you can enjoy the virtual view here.

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Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Autumn in Strasbourg: The Calm Before the Christmas Markets

Half- timbered buildings n Strasbourg's Petit France.

There’s much more to Strasbourg than its world-famous Christmas Markets, which attract visitors from around the globe every December. When we visited in early November, the city already felt festive, with a chill in the air and a palpable sense of anticipation.

Christmas tree with cathedral spire in background — *Strasbourg’s Christmas tree stands ready for decorating in Place Kleber. The Cathedral’s spire towers in the background.*

Galeries Lafayette unveiled its third-floor Christmas boutique and storefronts throughout the city were dressed for the season. The enormous Christmas tree was erected in Place Kleber, crews were testing the lights, and holiday decorations were beginning to sparkle across the city.

Galerie Lafayette department store with tram passing by. — *Galerie Lafayette was already showing its holiday finery.*

Residents told us that once the Strasbourg Christmas Markets officially open, from November 26 through December 24, the streets become nearly impassable. Markets pop up in every neighborhood, which adds to the magic, and the crowds, as December progresses. November felt like the perfect time to be in Strasbourg: festive and wonderfully uncrowded.

A Rich History

Strasbourg calls itself the Capital of Europe, not only because of its central position in the historic Alsace region, now part of France’s Grand Est, but also because it hosts both the European Parliament and the European Court of Human Rights.

Half- timbered building on the River Ill — *Its captivating fusion of German and French culture, cuisine, and architecture makes Strasbourg a unique destination.*

For centuries, Strasbourg shifted between French and German rule, and that cultural blend makes Strasbourg feel distinct from anywhere else in France. You’ll see it in the architecture, taste it in the food, and hear it echoed in the language. There’s no place quite like it.

What to Do and Where to Go in Strasbourg

Strasbourg Tourism Information office — *Make the Strasbourg Tourism Office your first stop for a Strasbourg City Card, information, and recommendations.*

Strasbourg has fascinating museums, beautiful churches, historic neighborhoods, lovely parks, walking tours, boat rides, and even tiny train tours. Make the Tourist Information Office in Cathedral Square your first stop and pick up a Strasbourg City Card, which gives discounts on museums, attractions, and transportation. Here are some highlights to help you plan your visit:

The Iconic Cathédrale Notre-Dame

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the city’s star attraction and the most visited cathedral in France after Paris’s Notre-Dame. Construction began in 1180 and continued until 1439. One of the first things you’ll notice is the single spire. Although builders had centuries to add a second one, wars, finances, and concerns about the stability of the landfill beneath the cathedral likely were the reason the spire is solitary. The result is an unforgettable, asymmetrical masterpiece. Its 142-meter tower made it the tallest building in Europe until the 19th century.

Notre Dame Cathedral de Strasbourg — *Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the city’s most visited site.*

The cathedral has a wonderful blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Remarkably, much of its medieval stained glass, including the spectacular rose window, has survived centuries of conflict and remains intact.

Note: The cathedral closes to tourists during mass but welcomes worshippers. Once mass ends, everyone must exit immediately. I learned this firsthand when I had to convince the guard to let me stay long enough to light a candle!

Tick Tock Don’t Miss This Clock!

The cathedral’s extraordinary astronomical clock is a must-see. More than three million people visit the clock each year. Check the sign outside the cathedral to see if it’s on display. The schedule varies. We finally saw it on our fifth and final day.

When the clock is available for viewing, enter through the side door near the gift shop. Arrive before noon to buy your 4 € ticket and claim a good spot for the 12:30 p.m. presentation. Tickets cannot be reserved. Even in November the area around the clock fills up quickly.

Strasbourg's astronomical clock — *The skeleton hammers, the cock crows and the apostles circle around Christ at exactly 12:30 PM.*

While you wait, watch the excellent video (German and French with English subtitles) explaining the clock’s history and inspired engineering. Commissioned in 1547 and completed in 1571, the mechanism tracks not only time but ecclesiastic holidays, phases of the moon, solar cycles, and the movement of the zodiac. This is an astonishing feat of 16th-century ingenuity, mathematics and craftsmanship.

At precisely 12:30 p.m., the show begins: a skeleton chimes the hour, a rooster crows, and the twelve apostles parade past the Christ figure three times. This exquisite centuries-old marvel is one of Strasbourg’s must-see experiences.

crowd of people looking at antique clock — *Get to the Cathedral by noon to stake out the best viewing spot.*

This is the third astronomical clock built for the cathedral. The first, built 1352–1354, stood in the south transept across from the current timepiece. It was replaced in 1574 by a clock whose complexity, precision, and craftsmanship brought fame to the mathematicians, clockmakers and artists who built it.

The second clock was dismantled in 1838. It has been displayed in the Decorative Arts Museum since 1924. The current clock, completed in 1840, incorporates parts of the earlier clock including several original figurines, and paintings by Tobias Stimmer who worked on the second clock.

After the presentation ends, you’re free to wander the cathedral. For an additional fee, climb the tower for panoramic city views.

Palais Rohan’s Three Must-See Museums

Just across the square from the cathedral, the elegant 18th-century Palais Rohan, often called “Little Versailles”, showcases lavish Baroque interiors, glittering gilding, and centuries of history in its three museums. Over the years it has housed nobility, monarchy, university offices, and now belongs to the municipality. With a Strasbourg City Card, admission to all three of its museums is only 8 €.

Palais Rohan courtyard — *The beautiful Baroque Palais Rohan houses three important museums.*

Musée des Beaux-Arts

The Fine Arts Museum features more than 2,000 works by European masters including Giotto, Raphael, Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Canaletto, Memling, Rubens, Van Dyck, Zurbarán, Goya, El Greco, Courbet, and Degas. The collection of paintings, sculpture, and religious art spans from the Middle Ages through the 20th century and is a must for classical art lovers.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Perhaps the palace’s most enchanting space and my favorite, the Decorative Arts Museum includes the opulent apartments of the Prince-Bishop, designed between 1732 and 1742 by Robert de Cotte, First Architect to the King, for Cardinal Armand Gaston Maximilien de Rohan-Soubise. Though damaged during the French Revolution and again during World War II, the palace has been meticulously restored. Visitors today can wander through the Guards’ Room, the Bishops’ Hall, the King’s Chamber, the Assembly Hall, the library, the private chapel, and rooms decorated for Napoleon I and Empress Josephine. Marie Antoinette, Louis XV and Charles X were among the royalty who slept here.

Opulent bedroom for Napoleon 1 — *This cozy study was converted to a bedchamber for Napoleon I.*

Each of the stately palace rooms have signage in French and English explaining their use and describing the provenance of the furnishings and artworks. The tapestries, sumptuous furnishings, carved stucco and other materials are exceptional.

Hannong ceramic tureen and platter — The fanciful porcelain designed by Paul Hannong is a highlight at the Decorative Arts Museum.

Don’t miss the Paul Hannong ceramic and porcelain collection. From whimsical oversized cabbage-ware to ornate terrines shaped like a giant boar’s head and a large turkey, this is tableware fit for a king, or at least a Prince-Bishop, for whom they were designed. There are also playful platters of porcelain eggs and pickles that leave little space for actual food but are delightful to look at. The silver collection, with objects ranging from cutlery to liturgical vessels, is equally captivating.

astrolabe and clocks — *Spend time with the historic astrolabe, clocks and globes on display. They’re truly extraordinary.*

The Decorative Arts Museum is a treasure trove of art, furnishings, tableware, silver, books, manuscripts, religious objects, and other remarkable and well-preserved antiques like the astrolabe, clocks and globes in the museum’s collections. It is the perfect place for a history buff or would-be time traveller to spend an afternoon.

Musée Archéologique

The Archaeological Museum is the oldest museum in Strasbourg. Housed on the Palais Rohan’s lower level, it holds an extensive collection of artifacts dating from prehistoric times from to the first centuries of the Middle Ages; the period ruled by the Frankish Merovingian dynasty which lasted from the 5th century until 751. This is one of France’s most important archeological collections and we were sorry to miss it on this visit.

More Museums Worth Visiting

The Historical Museum of the City of Strasbourg offers an excellent overview of the city’s origins and development. Curious about how Strasbourg was founded, who lived here, and what daily life looked like in its earliest centuries? You’ll find the answers here.

Housed in a building originally used for butcher stalls, the museum’s exhibits cover 900 years of Strasbourg history and include everything from military artifacts to pottery. Most displays feature English-language signage and there are audio guides available.

Exhibit of a building at Strasbourg City Museum — *Interactive and static exhibits tell the story of Strasbourg’s fascinating history at the City Museum.*

There are also interactive exhibits that younger visitors will love. Try on a medieval helmet to feel its weight or lift one of the stone balls once used as cannon projectiles. The museum also houses an array of medieval weaponry and full suits of armor for both soldiers and horses, always a crowd pleaser! The museum was closing before we got through all the galleries, but we will be back!

The Museum of the Cathedral’s Treasures was closed during our stay due to a national holiday. The Alsatian Museum is closed for renovation at least through the end of the year.

As always, check websites for current hours and prices. Many museums offer discounts with the Strasbourg City Card.

Locks and Landmarks

A Batorama boat tour is a relaxing way to experience Strasbourg. Departing from a pier on the River Ill just a short walk from the Strasbourg Cathedral, the company offers several itineraries and operates both open and closed boats, depending on the weather. We had a closed boat due to threatening rain, though an open-top boat would have offered better views of the city’s landmarks during the 70-minute cruise.

Headphones provide commentary in multiple languages, including English, French, German, and Italian, as you glide through Strasbourg’s scenic and historic areas. Buy tickets in advance, especially on weekends and holidays. Tours often sell out.

Locks on the River Ill in Petit France — *You’ll pass through locks in Petit France and learn a lot about this charming city on a Batorama boat tour.*

Our itinerary was the most comprehensive and included Petit France, Strasbourg’s most picturesque neighborhood. Known for its half-timbered houses, Petit France’s cobblestone streets are lined with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. In medieval times, the area was home to tanners and slaughterhouses. The upper galleries of the buildings used to dry animal hides are still visible.

The area was derisively nicknamed “Petit France” after a hospital for Napoleonic soldiers being treated for syphilis was built here. The area’s notorious past is quite a contrast to its modern day charm.

The boat also passes through Neustadt, or “New Town,” built by the Germans in the 1800s to showcase their influence and affluence. Grand boulevards, stately colonial buildings, and expansive public spaces characterize Neustadt. It is the opposite of the narrow, winding streets of Petit France. The area significantly expanded Strasbourg’s geographic footprint.

Neustadt is home to lovely parks and key government buildings, including the Ministry of Justice, the Courthouse, and the National and University Library (BNU). The BNU is the second largest library in France and holds about 3 million books, documents, rare works, ancient manuscripts, coins, and maps.

Park and government buildings in Neustadt — *Stroll Neustadt’s grand boulevards and relax in one of the beautiful parks here.*

During the tour, the boat passes through several locks, providing a fascinating look at how boats are raised and lowered along the river. Along the way, you’ll enjoy beautiful views of Strasbourg’s historic architecture, covered bridges, gardens, and modern structures like the European Court of Human Rights. You’ll likely want to return to many of the places the boat passes. We did.

Take a Walking Tour

I like to take a walking tour in every new city I visit. It’s a great way to get to know a place and ideal for first-timers. Our guide, Halima, shared fascinating stories and local lore from architectural quirks to quaint customs. Fun fact: In the Middle Ages, heart-shaped cutouts in shutters signaled marriageable daughters within!

yellow building with blue shutters with heart cut outs — *Shutters with heart cutouts advertised daughters of marrying age in Medieval times.*

Halima also provided us with recommendations for restaurants, bakeries and bars. We had a spontaneous stop at a bakery along the way to buy freshly baked macaroons. Though GuruWalk is technically “free”, participants generally give the guide 15-20 € per person at the end of the tour.

Tiny Train Tours

Strasbourg’s tourist train takes two routes; one leaves in front of the Cathedral in the historic center, and the other goes through Neustadt. We found Strasbourg extremely walkable, often clocking more than seven miles a day, but the train is fun option for families or travelers with mobility concerns.

tiny tourist train — *All aboard! The Petite Tourist Train is fun for all ages* *and is a great option for those with mobility concerns.*

A word of caution: cyclists are everywhere, and bike lanes aren’t always obvious, so be alert! If you’re staying in the city center, plan to walk or use Strasbourg’s excellent public transit system. Leave your car in the hotel garage; street parking is nearly impossible, driving is stressful, and the city center is a pedestrian-only zone.

Sip and Savor

Strasbourg is in the center of one of France’s important wine- growing regions. The Grand Est is known primarily for white wines including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Pinot Noir is the predominant red wine here. It is best suited to the climate and terroir.

woman with wine bottles — *There’s no need to leave the city to taste local wines and chat with winemakers.*

We had planned to drive to the countryside to visit wineries, but instead discovered Comptoir des Vignerons right in Gutenberg Place. The wineshop specializes in local wines and features a Vignerons du Jour program, or winemaker of the day, where a local winemaker pours and discusses their wines. For 8 €, you’ll sample five wines and chat with the vintner. Guided tastings (20 €) are also available. The shop is closed Sundays and Mondays.

Strasbourg also has its own locally brewed beer, Meteor, which you’ll find in many bars and restaurants.

Where to Eat: Try Our Favorite Tables

The culinary combination of German and French cuisine makes Strasbourg a seriously delicious dining destination. While there are plenty of international offerings, we focused on Alsatian cuisine, both traditional and innovative. Traditional dishes usually feature pork and sauerkraut, fish and sauerkraut, sausages, and hearty, meaty stews. Onion tarts, foie gras, charcroute garnie, veal kidney, and wild game are also popular Alsatian dishes. We ate most of them. Some of our favorite tables were:

Pompette: Small and elegant, the restaurant features locally-sourced dishes with a modern twist, like roasted endive with citrus to start and lamb with black olives for the main. Pompette is slang for tipsy!
Foundrefeu: We celebrated my husband’s birthday here with creative, vegetable- forward cuisine. Think mushroom mille-feuille with butternut cream.
Winstub Le Clou: Traditional, hearty Alsatian fare is served in a cozy atmosphere. We were surprised when the hostess sat another couple at our table, but we had a lovely evening with the English-speaking French couple from Normandy.
Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau: Popular with locals, expect classic Alsatian cuisine in a lively atmosphere. Dining here is also a communal experience. Chat with your neighbors! We met a nice Australian couple and three friends who work in the wine and hospitality industries. One happened to be bar manager at our hotel.
Vino Strada Restaurant: This is part wine bar, part restaurant. It’s got an Italian name, but the cooking is Alsatian and elegant. Beetroot with duck breast, figs and blackberries was an excellent starter. Our evening got livelier when a birthday group started a conga line through the restaurant!

Something Sweet

Judging by the sheer number of patisseries and bakeries in Strasbourg, Alsatians must have a collective sweet tooth. Try Patisserie Avelina for exquisite cakes and baked goods. L’Atelier 116 was also good but very crowded and there’s always a line.

cookies and baked goods — *It’s easy to satisfy a sweet tooth in Strasbourg*! *Gingerbread and other seasonal sweets were already in the shops in early November.*

Where to Stay: Art Deco Delight

Strasbourg offers hotels at every price point, but we loved Maison Rouge, a Marriott Autograph Collection property housed in a historic Art Deco building. It’s full of character and within walking distance of nearly everything we were interested in seeing.

The service at Maison Rouge was exceptional. Hotel staff were gracious, knowledgeable and incredibly helpful. On our first night, we were unsure how to get to the restaurant we had booked, and Paloma, the front desk associate who had checked us in, offered to walk us there on her way home. It was a generous gesture that we genuinely appreciated, along with her tips for navigating the city!

Why Go to Strasbourg in November?

Cathedral at night — *Strasbourg’s iconic cathedral lights up the November night.*

Visiting in early November turned out to be ideal. Hotel rates were still reasonable, the weather was cool but pleasant, and we could explore the city at a relaxed pace. River-cruise groups had begun to arrive, but nothing like the peak-season surge locals described. If you want to enjoy Strasbourg’s holiday spirit without the Christmas Market crowds, a late autumn visit offers the perfect blend of atmosphere and breathing room.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream!

Fairbanks in Summer: Fun Under the Midnight Sun

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds.

The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49^th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

*A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.*

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

*Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.*

I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

*Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.*

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history.

We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!

*Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.*

Sled Dogs

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat.

*Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.*

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

*A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.*

Athabaskan Culture

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead.

Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

*Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.*

*Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.*

Athabaskan Fashion

We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.

*The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.*

Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.

We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.

Cultural Exchange

*Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.*

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.

*Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.*

Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

*We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.*

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

*Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.*

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.

*The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.*

Alaskan Ingenuity

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage.

Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

*Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.*

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

*The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.*

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

*Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.*

*The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.*

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

*Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.*

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.

A Day in Denali

*Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.*

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park.

Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.

*Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.*

Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.

*Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!*

Safety First

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

*A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.*

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

*Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.*

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos.

Staying in Shape

We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

*The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.*

Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

If You Go

*Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball*!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

*The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.*

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you. I appreciate your support!

Listen to the World at Phoenix’s Musical Instrument Museum

If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.

*Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.*

Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.

*I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!*

The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!

*Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!*

Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.

*Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria*.

*Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.*

We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.

*Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence*?

Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.

*The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow*, *shown below.*

*Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the **Treasures** exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.*

The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.

*This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.*

Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.

*Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.*

*I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums*.

The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.

Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.

Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.

*The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course*!

In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!

*Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!*

*Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.*

Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.

*Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.*

Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.

In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.

*Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!*

*No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!*

Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?

This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.

Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.

*Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranian* *province of Hormozgan.*

Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.

*Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.* *This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.*

Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.

*The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!*

Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the **Treasures** exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.

Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.

Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com is Protected by US copyright laws.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may make a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

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