A visit to Portland’s world famous International Rose Test Garden is truly a treat for the senses. The heady fragrance of thousands of roses greets you even before you see them. Here on 4.5 acres in the city’s Washington Park, high above Portland’s hustle and bustle, visitors will delight in the sights and aromas of more than 10,000 individual plants and 650 different varieties of gorgeous roses.
About 700,000 people visit Portland’s International Rose Test Garden each year.
With whimsical names like Angel Face, Candy Cane Cocktail, Carmel Kisses, Champagne Wishes, First Crush, Falling in Love and Jump for Joy, giant blooms and tiny tea varieties give approximately 700,000 visitors a year something to smile about.
How about Gold-medal winning Sunshine Daydream to brighten your day?
These beautiful blooms are a delight to the senses.
Barbra Streisand, Bishop Desmond Tutu, Pope John Paul II, Dale Chihuly, Ingrid Bergman, George Burns, Coretta Scott King, Dick Clark, Marilyn Monroe and England’s Queen Elizabeth are among the luminaries who have a namesake rose here.
Well-known people from around the globe including artists, philanthropists, world and religious leaders have namesake roses here.
While the peak month for rose viewing is June, our visit in August was sensational. According to the Portland Parks & Recreation Department, which owns and manages the Rose Garden, roses are in bloom from May through October.
These floral favorites were glorious even in August.
Plan accordingly–we arrived in April one time and were disappointed to see we’d come too early. We enjoyed a stroll through the lovely Japanese Garden across the street instead.
More than 650 varieties of roses are grown here.
“Hot Cocoa” seems right, even in the summer.
The oldest continuously operating public rose test garden in the U.S., Portland’s International Rose Test Garden just celebrated its 100th birthday. The centennial was marked this August with music and other activities.
Portland recently celebrated 100 Years of Roses– that’s why it’s called the Rose City.
During its 100 years of operation the Rose Test Garden has served as just that—a testing ground for new varieties of this floral favorite. During World War I, the Garden also became home and protector of European-grown rose varieties threatened by bombing.
Admission is free and so are guided tours given at 1 p.m. daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day.
To get the most from your visit, download a self-guided tour or join one of the free guided tours offered daily at 1 p.m. from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Enjoy the roses during your visit but remember, absolutely no plantings or cuttings can be removed from the Garden.
Dick Clark’s namesake rose won “Portland’s Best Rose” last year.
Admission to the Rose Garden is free. There is limited metered parking available. Consider taking public transportation or a ride share to reach the Garden. Take Trimet MAX to Washington Park and then use the free shuttle from the station that runs throughout the Park.
The next time Portland, Oregon is on your itinerary, treat yourself to a visit here and find out why it’s called the Rose City. And take time to smell, the well… you know!
The first thing I do when I arrive at Gleneden Beach, a hamlet on Oregon’s Central Coast, is take a deep breath. The clean, crisp air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.
There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales!
Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.
Whale Watching Season
The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales–20,000 of them according to some sources– pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.
Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.
It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spyhop so close to shore. We learned that spyhopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby—maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy seeing them.
Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.
Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.
Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.
Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.
The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center is closed now but watch for the reopening.
The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center was closed for construction in March while we were there, but we visited last year and saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.
The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep. Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.
Volunteers can usually be found at 24 coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Docents will not be at their stations and viewing equipment will be unavailable this year due to the public health crisis. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks.org.
Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse
I think there’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.
The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.
Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.
The rocky shoals below the Yaquina Head lighthouse became the final resting place for many ships and sailors.
Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.
The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.
Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.
Come to the Interpretive Center for information that will help you make the most of your visit. Admission to the center is free. There is a fee to enter the park.Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.
After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit. Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.
Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps. A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.
There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!
Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.
Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.
Take a hike and enjoy the spectacular views.
Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.
Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.
Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.
Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center and Burrows House
Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.
Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.
Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.
Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.
Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development. Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.
Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave!
Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19th and early 20th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.
Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s. This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.
Hatfield Marine Science Center
Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.
Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense of wonder in visitors of all ages.Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.
The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.
Go Exploring
Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.
Devil’s Punchbowl is at its best at high tide when the sea really churns.
Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.
Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore! Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide. Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.
Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Free “finders keepers” glass floats are a 20-year tradition on Lincoln City’s beaches. These are for sale at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.
It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.
Practicalities
Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.
You’ll share the road with logging trucks on the scenic coastal road.
There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.
We’ve stayed at this Wyndham timeshare in Gleneden Beach several times.
As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. Our favorite restaurants are:
Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.
You can’t beat the sunset view at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay. The halibut is always a great choice. Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.
Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.
Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.
We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them. Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!
Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.
Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.
Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite. The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious. The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.
We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.
Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.
Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning. Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.
The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.
Kyllos-Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.
We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.Kyllos fish tacos are good, too!
If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.
This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways…
Art, food and fun highlighted our three-day weekend in the Emerald City. We started off our Saturday morning with a monorail ride from the central shopping area to the Center City area, home of the iconic Space Needle. The monorail, which was built for the 1962 World’s Fair, costs just $4.00 and is only $2.00 for seniors, children under 12, disabled, and active duty military.
It’s a quick but fun ride on Seattle’s monorail.
The trip takes only minutes between Westlake Center Station at 5th and Pine Streets and The Seattle Center Station. Purchase your ticket at the kiosk or from the cashier as you enter the train. The monorail runs every 10 minutes or so from 8:30 a.m. on weekends (7:30 a.m. during the week) and closes between 9 p.m. and midnight, depending on the date and what’s happening downtown. Be sure to check the schedule.
Sonic Bloom greets visitors walking to EMP or Chihuly Garden and Glass. The “sunflowers” move and emit sound.
Seattle’s iconic Space Needle was built for the 1962 World’s Fair.
We’d been to the Space Needle on previous visits so headed right to the Chihuly Garden and Glass.
There’s a reason Chihuly Garden and Glass is on everyone’s Top 10 list. Don’t miss it!
We should have bought our tickets online—the lines were long for the cashiers inside and at the outdoor kiosks, and cost more than the online price. Plan ahead! Once you have your ticket and have reached the admission area, ask to have your arm stamped so that you can return in the evening to view these magnificent glass works illuminated. The sun sets quite late in Seattle during the summer months so keep that in mind when planning your return visit.
Prepare to be amazed. Detail of Chihuly’s Sealife Tower.
The Chihuly Garden and Glass is included in Seattle’s City Pass so if you plan to visit more than one of the included attractions—yes, the Space Needle is one of them—you may want to opt for the City Pass. You’ll save money and time since you won’t wait on line.
Tabac Basket in the Northwest Room.
Once inside, be prepared to be awed. There is a reason Chihuly Garden and Glass is on everyone’s “must see” list. We heard more than a few “wows” as soon as we stepped into the first gallery. Dale Chihuly’s glass art works are artistic, whimsical and beyond stunning.
Mille Fiori– A thousand flowers- delight the senses.
These photos cannot capture the splendid forms, movement, intricacy and vibrant colors in Chihuly’s work but they do give an hint of what you’ll experience at Chihuly Garden and Glass. It is a magical place.
Persian Ceilingfloods the room with color from above.
It seems as you move from gallery to gallery the works get progressively more beautiful and intricate. The lighting, staging and even the music in the galleries combine to create a magnificent experience.
Ikebana and Float Boatscapture the viewer’s imagination.
A stroll through the gorgeous gardens is another delight. The art is so beautifully integrated in the various plantings that you’ll want to linger.
A view in the garden.
Northwest timber is integrated in the glass garden.
We had the added benefit of a spectacular day—clear, blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70s. The soothing background music being performed by a gentleman playing the Eyhu on the street just outside the garden added to our enjoyment.
Soothing music further enhanced our enjoyment of the gardens.
The works on display are included in a fairly comprehensive catalog titled, Chihuly Garden and Glass, available in the gift shop in the lobby. It is one of many available volumes featuring Mr. Chihuly’s art. In addition to the usual museum gift shop items like books and calendars featuring the artist’s work, original pieces of Chihuly’s glass art are also on offer.
This is no ordinary gift shop.
A spectacular souvenir.
If you’ve worked up an appetite after your stroll through the garden, head over to the Seattle Center Armory a few steps away. Originally built in 1939 to house the 146th artillery and its half-ton tanks, it was repurposed for the 1962 World’s Fair and became the city’s first vertical shopping mall, called the Food Circus.
Once home to an artillery unit and half-ton tanks, the Armory now features food and family fun.
Today, in addition to a public space that hosts more than 3,000 free family entertainment and cultural events each year, you’ll find a food court that’s got something for everyone. Though Starbuck’s and Subway do have a presence here, they share the main floor with more interesting offerings from the likes of Eltana’s Wood- Fired Bagel Café, Seattle Fudge, MOD Pizza, Kabab, Cool Guys Fry Bar, Ceres Roasting Company, Bigfood BBQ, Quincy’s (burgers and seafood) , Blue Water Taco, Plum Pantry (vegan and organic selections), The Confectional and Skillet Counter.
The Seattle Center Armory is a busy place at lunchtime.
Mediterranean street food, beef baracoa, fish tacos, Belgian style fries, individual cheesecakes, pizza, vegan fare, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich are among the tantalizing possibilities we deliberated for lunch.
So many choices…
We chose Skillet Counter where the Fried Chicken Sammy with a fennel seed crust, kale, and jalapeno aioli on a potato roll called out to my traveling companions. I had a delicious curried carrot soup and a salad. We met Chef Mike “Mookie” who kindly shared his recipe for the soup and the aioli. Looking forward to whipping up some of that at home!
Skillet Counter’s Chef Mike aka “Mookie”
If you’ve got little ones in tow—you’re in luck—Seattle’s Children’s Museum is just downstairs. Here you’ll find interactive exhibitions, hands on, and age appropriate activities for children ages 10 months to 10 years.
Seattle Children’s Museum is lots of fun for the little ones.
After our satisfying lunch at Skillet Counter, we headed down towards Elliott Bay to the Olympic Sculpture Park, part of the Seattle Art Museum. So much to see and do in the Emerald City!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
Protected by US Copyright Laws.
Note: Things change. Please be sure to verify opening times and pricing for any and all places and activities mentioned.
Air Force One, the Concorde, the Space Shuttle Trainer, the first fighter plane, and many more remarkable aircraft are just a short drive south of Seattle in Tukwila, WA, home of the largest private non-profit aviation museum in the West.
Seaplanes to space craft are all on display at the Museum of Flight.
The Museum of Flight http://www.museumofflight.org is located at the King County International Airport on Boeing Field and has more than 150 aircraft plus interactive exhibitions, rare photographs, films, newsreels, memorabilia and much more. Exhibits take visitors on a fascinating journey from the earliest days of aviation, to the moon, and back to the present.
Military aircraft make up a significant part of the Museum’s collection.
After purchasing tickets inside the Museum of Flight, come back outside and climb aboard some of the most iconic aircraft to ever take flight. The outdoor exhibits close before the museum does.
The very first Air Force One jet.
Just outside on the Boeing Field, the first jet used as Air Force One, a specially constructed Boeing 707-120 called SAM (Special Air Missions) 970, is open for touring. Presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon and numerous dignitaries traveled the world aboard this particular aircraft. Kennedy’s pipe rack, Johnson’s hat rack, the safe where the president’s secret nuclear codes were kept, “Press Section” seating and the president’s private quarters are all on view.
This area was the president’s private sitting area and popular for naps, we were told.
Personal memorabilia from several presidents are still onboard.
The world’s fastest commercial jet, one of only 20 Concordes ever built, is on display outside the Museum, too. Courtesy of British Airways, guests can tour this compact aircraft. We were surprised at just how narrow the cabin was.
One of only 20 Concordes manufactured.
Speed was more important than spaciousness on the Concorde.
At the other end of the spectrum, guests can visit Boeing’s 787 Dreamliner, one of the most fuel efficient commercial airliners to take to the skies, according to the company.
A wide array of aircraft are on display and open for touring. Helpful docents are on hand at most.
There’s plenty of room to relax on this Boeing 787, at least in the forward cabins.
Also on the field is a US Air 737, which now serves as a theater for those interested in viewing Time Flies: Century of Flight.
Back inside the Museum, guests can trace the history of aviation from its earliest days right up to the present. The Red Barn, where the Boeing Company began, is part of the Museum today and gives guests an excellent historical perspective on the development of commercial aviation.
Inside the Red Barn.
Visitors can learn about the men and women at the forefront of aviation in America.
Rare photographs, news stories, film clips and more tell the story of flight.
Memorabilia from Boeing’s beginning.
The Museum has displays of every imaginable aircraft from the Taylor Aerocar III—AKA the “car plane”, which actually did take flight as a film clearly shows; to all manor of military aircraft, including the first fighter plane, the Italian built Caproni Ca.20; to planes used to deliver mail in Alaska and newspapers in the Midwest and much more.
The Aerocar was one of my favorite aircraft. The wings folded into a handy trailer for driving after landing.
There is a hole in the floor of the plane for the pilot to drop newspapers through.
There are even miniature planes. The Holtgrewe WWII Model Collection has more than 400 1/72 scale models of military aircraft used by most of the countries who became combatants in the second world war. Another marvelous miniature is the 1/10 scale model of the Montgolfier Brothers’ Balloon on display in the Museum’s lobby.
A model of a Montgolfier Brothers Balloon greets visitors in the lobby.
Military craft from many nations attract visitors’ attention.
A Vietnam War era helicopter.
The U.S. Space Program is well represented, too. Visitors can track America’s race to space from its earliest days to the present. There are photographs, magazine and newspaper articles, films and news reels, exhibits on the animals used in space program, space suits worn by U.S. Astronauts and Soviet Cosmonauts, and a vast assortment of memorabilia from moon rocks to the cowboy boots worn by a famous test pilot. Apollo 17 Mission Models and the only Mars Viking lander still here on Earth are also at the Museum.
Here’s how the cosmonauts suited up for space.
Primates and pups launched before our first astronauts.
Guests can also walk through the Space Shuttle Trainer Crew Compartment where U.S. astronauts trained for every Shuttle mission. A separate 30- minute tour of the Trainer is available for an additional fee for visitors 10 years and older. Tours of the Boeing Field are also offered for an additional fee.
Apollo 17 models are just some of the fascinating exhibits on space exploration.
There are numerous flight simulators, exhibits on every aspect of aviation including rocketry and “spacebots”, a research library, aviation advertising, and so much more for visitors to see.
Aviation advertising from the days when flying was fun.
An American Airlines advertisement.
There is so much to see and experience at the Museum that many visitors will not be able to enjoy all that is on offer in one day. Happily, discounted return tickets are available so take your time and come back again.
After a beautiful morning at Chihuly Garden and Glass and lunch at Seattle Central Armory’s Skillet Counter, we headed down to the Olympic Sculpture Park, part of the Seattle Art Museum. On the way we passed a Duckload of friendly tourists.
Seattle’s Duck Tour is one way to see the sights in the Emerald City.
We enjoyed the view of snowcapped Mt. Ranier in the distance and the cruise ships docked nearby.
Seattle is a popular jumping off point for Alaskan cruises.
And finally reached our destination– the Olympic Sculpture Park.
All are welcome at Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park. Admission is free.
Jaume Plensa’s 46- foot Echo, towers over visitors with her eyes closed to the sea beyond.
This beautiful urban art park was once an industrial site. Now, less than 10 years later, the nine acres on Elliott Bay is Seattle’s largest downtown green space and home to spectacular sculpture by some of the most influential and respected artists in the world including Richard Serra, Ellsworth Kelly, Alexander Calder, and Louise Nevelson.
A view of Richard Serra’s Wake.
It’s an entirely different visual experience to wander among the panels of Wake.
Alexander Calder’s The Eagle provides a brilliant pop of color and a shady place to rest.
Typewriter Eraser by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen must add a touch of whimsy to the daily commute.
With views toward the Olympic Mountains and Puget Sound, thought provoking and attention getting art, and its beautiful waterfront location, the award-winning Olympic Sculpture Park ought to be on your list of “must sees” in Seattle.
Cargo ships glide by Bunyon’s Chess by Mark di Suvero.
Puget Sound makes a beautiful backdrop for these sculptures.
di Suvero’s Schubert Sonata has a prime location.
The nine-acre sculpture park has lovely wooded paths to explore.
The Olympic Sculpture Park is pedestrian and bicycle friendly, handicapped accessible, and admission is free.
Roy McMakin’s Love and Loss was commissioned for the Olympic Sculpture Park.
Beverly Pepper’s Perre’s Ventaglio III is right at home among the vegetation.
What a fantastic place to spend a beautiful day in Seattle! Next, dinner decisions, The Frye and we take flight to Boeing Field–a visit to the Museum of Flight.
Note: Banner image is Louise Bourgeois’s Father and Son. Each figure is in turn concealed and revealed by the water in which they stand, separated, arms outstretched.
It had been more than 25 years since I last slid my feet into skis but when the chance came to join some friends on their annual ski trip to Park City, Utah, I took it. This would be my first time to visit Utah. A short Delta flight delta.com from San Diego and then an Uber had us in Park City in no time.
There is lodging ranging from hotel rooms to home rentals at all price points in and around Park City. We stayed at a friend’s home in this beautiful area close to both Park City Mountain and Deer Valley.
We set off to get provisions for the house and made a quick trip to Christy Sports Ski and Snowboard Rentals www.christysports.com where my friends had reserved their equipment. Book your gear in advance online and you’ll save about 15 percent. There are numerous rental outlets to choose from in Park City and the ski resorts have their own shops and rental facilities, too. Check around for best prices.
Downtown Park City has plenty of stores, boutiques, galleries and restaurants for every taste and budget. You’ll get the best value in ski gear rentals with an advance booking online at places like Christy’s, which is outside of town.
We had a delicious dinner at the Blind Dog www.blinddogpc.com on our first night. It’s a casual restaurant popular with locals and visitors with an expansive menu sure to please most. There are salads, seafood and steak dishes to choose from, as well as both gluten free and vegetarian options. There is also a sushi menu available, which several in our group chose.
The Blind Dog has lots of menu options including gluten free and vegetarian selections.
Everything was fresh and tasty and the service attentive.The Blind Dog’s “Whine List” has a very good selection with plenty of by- the- glass options, beers, cocktails and sakes. The restaurant also has a gift shop with all manner of Blind Dog merchandise.
Indulge in some after dinner shopping at Blind Dog in Park City, UT.
The next morning we were off to Deer Valley Resort. There wasn’t as much snow as in years past, but the mountains were beautiful and I was excited to start my ski adventure.
Deer Valley is a full- service ski resort with lodging, restaurants, shops, gear rentals and a terrific ski school.
The others were planning to ski both Deer Valley www.deervalley.com and Park City www.parkcitymountain.com during our time there, but I was advised to start at Deer Valley. Their ski school is highly regarded and after my lengthy hiatus from the mountains, lessons were definitely in order. Note: Deer Valley is for skiers only–snowboarders are welcome at Park City Mountain.
Park City Mountain welcomes snowboarders and skiers. Free buses shuttle visitors between the mountain and downtown Park City.
The Deer Valley www.deervalley.com ski school staff suggested I purchase a beginner’s day pass, which allows access up to Silver Lake –about mid-mountain and high enough for me. A beginner’s pass was only $35 while a full day pass was $120 for adults. There are discounts available for seniors, children and military. You must have a pass to take lessons.
You must have a ski pass to take lessons at Deer Valley. The beginner’s ticket is perfect if you’re only planning to go mid-mountain.
I also opted to rent my equipment at Deer Valley. You can purchase your lift ticket, equipment rental and pay for lessons at the rental shop—one stop shopping. Since I chose the three-hour afternoon ski lesson, I was also counseled to wait until noon to get my rentals—great advice since the price is reduced at that time. I found out later that my rental also included a complimentary subscription to Ski Magazine.
Deer Valley has a highly regarded ski school and lived up to its reputation with patient, knowledgeable instructors.
By 12:40 p.m. I was fully outfitted and making my way to join the others in my “Max 4” lesson, so-called because there is a maximum of three other students plus an instructor. Students are matched as much as possible based on level of skill, age, etc. I was with three other women and all had been back on the slopes far more recently than I. Mike Wirt, from upstate New York, was our excellent and patient instructor. He critiqued with kindness, gave practical pointers and instilled confidence in all of us.
Being back on skis after a 25- year hiatus was fun and exhilarating. Yes, I fell a few times but that was no surprise!
I was a little nervous when our instructor took my poles away but it actually helped me improve—immediately. Before long, I was skiing with a new found confidence and while I fell a few times (including a pretty spectacular wipeout that involved a fence), I thoroughly enjoyed myself. I had a wonderful and exhilarating afternoon, and thanks to Mike’s excellent instruction, I’m looking forward to my next adventure on the slopes.
In addition to skiing, you can book snowshoeing and sleigh ride excursions at Deer Valley or rent skates at Park City and take a few turns on their on-site ice rink.
Deer Valley Resort has numerous options for dining and refreshments. I enjoyed a restorative hot cocoa at Deer Valley, Etc., the coffee shop on the plaza level, and a casual lunch at the cafeteria there. My friends dined at Silver Lake Restaurant, which they raved about, but my lesson time precluded meeting up with them mid-mountain.
There are also shops to explore and a handy locker room to stow your stuff while you’re on the slopes at Deer Valley. Lockers are $3 for one- time access. The attended bins are $5 for all day access and can be shared. This is the way to go if you want to ditch outer layers as the day warms up. You may also store your skis overnight with the attendants. Park City Mountain also offers a variety of dining and shopping opportunities as well, and an on-site outdoor ice rink.
Complimentary buses take visitors from Deer Valley and Park City Mountain to downtown Park City where a free trolley is available.
Local transportation is convenient and complimentary— free shuttle buses take visitors into town, up to Silver Lake, to Park City Mountain and all around the area. There’s also a free trolley that traverses Park City’s Main Street.
The helpful people at Deer Valley’s information booth are happy to assist with transportation, excursions and dining recommendations. In addition to skiing, shopping and dining, it is also possible to book sleigh rides and snowshoeing outings at Deer Valley. The lack of snow precluded us from those activities last time, but next season looks promising!
It’s easy to spend your entire day just wandering around the Mission District. There’s someplace inviting to eat and drink every few feet, interesting shops, galleries, independent bookstores (there are still a few left) and of course, the Mission Dolores, for which the area is named.
One of many inviting places to stop for a bite in the Mission District.
Our itinerary included some of all of the above. First, lunch at the ever-popular Pizzeria Delfina. We’ve enjoyed many delicious dinners at Delfina www.delfinasf.com, a lively, casual Italian restaurant that many say marked the beginning of the Mission District’s popularity as a dining destination back in 1998 when Craig and Annie Stoll first opened their doors. Today, we’re looking for lunch, and Delfina serves dinner only, so it’s Pizzeria Delfina (right next door) for lunch.
The original Pizzeria Delfina is right next door to the restaurant and has sidewalk tables.
With Delfina owner Craig Stoll.
There is almost always a lengthy line of hungry folks waiting for the pie at Pizzeria Delfina www.pizzeriadelfina.com. No reservations are accepted but there is a chalkboard right inside the small space– write your name and the number in your party then stand on line and wait your turn. Watch the pizzaoli as you wait—it’ll be your turn soon enough!
Lunchtime at Pizzaria Delfina.
The menu has a nice variety of pizzas with perfect thin and crunchy crusts (puffy on the edges—just like I like it), salads, antipasti and some desserts. There is limited seating inside but there are also some tables on the sidewalk. Wine and beer are available along with soft drinks. Service is friendly and pizzas are delivered to your table prontissimo.
Everything on the simple menu is fresh and delicious.
Perfect pizza– puffy, crunchy crust and best quality toppings.
If pizza is not what you’re after, Tartine www.tartinebakery.com is right on the corner. When we were loitering around the closed Pizzaria Delfina one sad Monday—the only day they are not open, owner Craig Stoll directed us to Tartine— one of his neighborhood favorites.
Crowds queue for Tartine’s pastries, breads and hot pressed sandwiches.
Diners in the back of the room can watch the bakers at work.
Superb sandwiches, salads, light meals and beautiful pastries are available in this small storefront, which also almost always has a line, especially on the weekends. If you grab a table near the back, you can watch the bakers at work and enjoy the heady aroma of baking bread.
If you haven’t satisfied your sweet tooth, walk a few blocks over to Valencia St. for dessert and learn how chocolate is made at Dandelion Small- Batch Chocolate.This café and factory has organized tours (book online at www.dandelionchocolate.com) but even if you haven’t been able to reserve a formal tour, it’s easy to see the chocolate makers at work in the open kitchen area and they are happy to answer questions.
Reserve a tour of Dandelion’s chocolate making facility online.
The current roaster can handle five kilos of cacao beans. The new facility will have a 50 kilo roaster.
We couldn’t join a tour but Lisa Vega, executive pastry chef, was kind enough to show us around and explain the chocolate making process from bean procurement (high quality, single source beans from numerous countries including Ecuador, Madagascar, Belize, and Venezuela), to sorting, roasting, winnowing, melanging, blocking, tempering, and finally, wrapping the bars for sale.
Executive Pastry Chef Lisa Vega was happy to show us around.
Dandelion’s chocolate makers create small batch chocolates everyday.
Their chocolates are made from two ingredients only– cacao and sugar.
After you’ve satisfied your curiosity, sample the wares while you wait to place your order for a delicious cocoa or coffee drink and something sweet to eat. There are plenty of tempting items both to enjoy at the café and to take home.
It isn’t easy to choose!
Complimentary samples are available of most of the single source chocolates.
Dandelion Chocolate also has a small kiosk in the Ferry Building, which sells their tasty products, books and other chocolate-related merchandise. The Ferry Building location is at the same end of the building as Miette Patisserie www.miette.com and Humphrey Slocombe Ice Cream www.humphreyslocombe.com— just across the way from Slanted Door’s take away place, Out the Door www.outthedoors.com.
Soon chocolately drinks like these will also be available at the Ferry Building.
Dandelion has plans for a cocoa café there as well, so you can enjoy their delicious drinks even if you don’t make it to the Mission.
Say cheese– at Mission Cheese.
If it’s cheesy goodness you’re craving, check out Mission Cheese www.missioncheese.net. This little shop is across from the “parklet” on Valencia and just two doors down from Dandelion Chocolate. Sample and purchase a wide variety of cheeses both domestic and imported, or make a meal of it with their gooey mac n’ cheese, a pressed cheese sandwich, charcuterie or a cheese flight. They also offer a fine selection of wine, beer and ciders, plus coffee, teas and dessert.
There’s plenty to see and do in the Mission.
Need pirate supplies? Pop into 826 Valencia St. in the Mission www.826valencia.org It’s the only “independent pirate supply store” in San Francisco.
Stop in to 826 for pirate supplies and to support young writers’ programming.
There you’ll find an assortment of pirate paraphernalia including “Scurvy Be Gone,” pirate flags, booty chests, tattoo removers (metal brushes aka “the low cost option”), looking glasses, maps, eye patches, tee shirts, books and much, much more.
Everyday is “Talk like a Pirate Day.”
In the back room, you’ll see what makes this space so important—it’s the free writing/tutoring lab author and 826 Valencia co-founder Dave Eggers began in the storefront in 2002, along with educator Ninive Calegari.
The writing/tutoring lab is the heart of 826 Valencia.
826 Valencia is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting underserved Bay Area students ages six to 18 by working with them to develop their writing skills. According to the 826 Valencia’s website, the group serves more than 6,000 students annually thanks to their 1,700 Bay Area volunteers. They also have an outreach program for teachers. Books by the young authors, including numerous anthologies, are available for sale, as are quarterly subscriptions to the young writers’ work. For more information on in-store events, volunteer and donation opportunities, and the writing programs, visit www.826valencia.org. Proceeds from all sales in the pirate shop support the free writing programs, so stop by and pick up a few treasures, matey.
Support independent booksellers.
Borderlands Bookstore www.borderlands-books.com is also on Valencia and home to new and used sci-fi, mystery, horror and fantasy titles. Independent bookstores like these are getting increasingly hard to find, and in fact, Borderlands was in danger of closing earlier this year due to the dramatic increase in minimum wage now required by the state of California. A community meeting and the clever idea to sell 300 $100 sponsorships have kept the doors open so far.
Grab a cup of coffee with your sci-fi.
Borderlands has special events including author readings and signings and a nice café right next door, too. I always like to support independent booksellers and encourage everyone else to do so. If you’re in the neighbor and your shelves are looking a little empty, stop in and buy a book or two.
The Mission is named for the beautiful Mission Dolores.
Finally, a visit to the actual Mission www.missiondolores.org, the oldest intact building in San Francisco. As we mentioned earlier, the Mission District takes its name from the Mission San Francisco de Asis established by Father Junipero Serra in 1776, but also commonly called Mission Dolores because of a nearby creek, Arroyo de los Dolores or “Creek of Sorrows.”
The gorgeous painted wooden ceiling is one of the highlights at Mission Dolores.
If the Mission Dolores seems familiar, it’s probably because you’ve seen it in the movies. Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo with Kim Novak and Jimmy Stewart was filmed here in 1957. Visitors are welcome, and for a small fee, can tour the church with it’s brightly painted wooden ceiling and alter piece, outbuildings and gardens, as well as the small cemetery, which was the final resting place of missionaries and parishioners alike.
Visit the tranquil gardens.
There are antique vestments, a diorama depicting how the mission functioned, paintings and Native American artifacts on display. There is also a small gift shop with handicrafts, devotional candles, rosary beads, prayer cards and Alfred Hitchcock bobble heads—really!
A tribute to “Vertigo.”
Take a few hours, an afternoon, or the whole day, and explore this fascinating area of San Francisco. Buy some books. Enjoy a meal or a drink. Pick up some chocolate, cheese or even a bobble head while you’re there!
Note: The Moto Talbott Collection closed permanently on September 30, 2024.
I’m not much of a motorcycle aficionado myself, but I have been married to one for enough years to recognize the distinctive sound of a Ducati from a distance. On our recent trip to California’s Monterey Peninsula, we drove up to Carmel Valley to indulge in some wine tasting and discovered the Moto Talbott Collection. My husband’s delight quickly faded when he saw the motorcycle museum was closed, but fate smiled once again when founder Robb Talbott appeared in the courtyard.
Moto Talbott is a “must see” for motorcycle aficionados.
We had a nice chat, but Mr. Talbott was off to an appointment so no chance for a sneak peek behind the gates that day. We left with the promise to return later that week; my husband clutching the newly printed brochure Robb had kindly given him.
Rare, vintage, award- winning and beautifully restored motorcycles, all with stories to tell, await visitors to Moto Talbott.
Bright and early that Friday morning, we returned to Moto Talbott. In the courtyard were the museum’s newest acquisitions—two BMW Isetta 300s. Originally produced in Italy in the 1950s, Issetas are known as micro cars or “cabin scooters.” These two had been languishing in a hayloft in a Northern California barn for more than 40 years. Robb had picked them up just the night before.
These Isseta micro cars had just arrived after languishing in a hayloft for 40 years.
The Moto Talbott Collection opened in November 2016 and has been attracting motorcycle fans from all over the world ever since. The collection is mostly motorcycles (more than 170 of them) but also features scooters, vintage transportation- themed toys, motorcycle memorabilia and more. The bikes are artfully displayed in a 6,000 square foot building with walls of snow barrier board trucked in from Wyoming and constructed by hand. Every detail has been carefully thought through.
This BMW is handsomely displayed against a handcrafted wall of Wyoming snow barrier board.
There are some real gems in the collection, including the Ducati Marianna that won the very last Motogira D’Italia in 1956 and is credited with saving the Ducati Company from possible closure. There’s a terrific photo of the wining rider, Guiliano Maoggi, with a cigarette clenched in his teeth on the wall above the bike, along with the fascinating story of his victory.
Visitors can learn about the last Motogiro d’Italia and the winning Ducati’s intriguing victory tale.
Steve McQueen’s 1931 VL Harley is there, as is a demonstration bike from WWII with the gas tank and engine covering cut away so soldiers training on it could learn what went where. This particular bike, which is quite a rare find, came to the collection complete with troop movement maps, gloves and a fully- functioning Thompson sub-machine gun, which has since been rendered inoperable.
Every bike has a fascinating story and a great deal of history behind it, including this rare WWII demo bike.
There’s a Vespa specially designed to promote Coach’s leather goods, a motorcycle that was buried in the backyard to protect it from certain destruction in a fire, race and award winners, beautiful restorations, trial bikes, rare and vintage motorcycles—they’re all here.
Each Coach logo was carefully hand painted on this promotional Vespa.
What really makes a trip to Moto Talbott special is the opportunity to learn the history and stories behind these bikes from the engaging and knowledgeable docents. We were fortunate to spend the morning with Rich Watson, former Economics professor at UC Santa Barbara and a lifelong lover of motorcycles. Rich could not have been more informative and entertaining. We were captivated by the intriguing tales he told, from his description of riders being impaled by enormous splinters during the American board racing days of the early 1900s to stories of unbeatable BSAs.
Engaging docents like Rich Watson enrich the visitor’s experience by sharing the stories and history behind the bikes.
These Indians from the early 1900s were used for American board racing– an extremely dangerous form of motorcycle racing not permitted for decades.
The impressive collection currently features road bikes and dirt bikes from 16 countries, from the Czech Republic to Mexico. MV Agusta, BSA, Bultaco, BMW, Indian, Harley Davidson, Kawaski, Maico, Gilera, Triumph, Honda—nearly every notable motorcycle company is represented here.
Road bikes and dirt bikes from around the globe are part of the collection at Moto Talbott.
The “Riders for Health” motorcycle under the orange vest traveled more than 80,000 kms bringing health care and aid to those in need in Zimbabwe.
The former proprietor of the highly regarded Talbott Vineyards and chairman of the board of the eponymous clothing company his family founded, Robb Talbott’s commitment to excellence and quality is as apparent in the Moto Talbott Collection as it was in his previous endeavors. The museum was at least three years in the making and was created so that he could “…share his passion for bikes and beauty… And mostly to share the stories of these bikes and their history.” The museum’s mission statement rings especially true after talking with Robb—”preservation, restoration and education…all driven by passion.”
Some of founder Robb Talbott’s vintage toys are displayed here.
We also had the chance to meet Bobby Weindorf, the museum’s curator and chief restorer. Motorcycles have been part of Bobby’s life since he was 12 years old. His career was built on his passion: five years with American Honda’s factory road race and Supercross/Motocross teams; a dealership in Santa Barbara for 10 years, and several years in Italy working with motorcycle race teams. When asked about his three favorite bikes in the collection, he chose the 1977 MV Agusta 850SS because, “It’s big, powerful and makes a bold Italian statement,” a 1977 Hodaka Super Combat Wombat, “…cute dirt bike with an awesome name,” and a 1965 BMW R 69S in Granada Red, for it’s “pure elegance in a rare color…”
Moto Talbott is dedicated to preservation, restoration and education–and doing a spectacular job in all three area.
Bobby noted that Moto Talbott will continue to evolve: expanding and changing the collection, offering events, and continuing to educate visitors, preserve the “survivors,” and restore the classic motorcycles that he and the others involved in this marvelous museum have worked so tirelessly to make accessible to motorcycle lovers from around the world.
Update–The museum has been temporarily closed due to Covid-19. For more information click here.
Note: Even though Covid and the many restrictions (travel and otherwise) that came with it is behind us, I’m leaving this post up to memorialize the experience!
It seems like almost everyone I know is either on their way, just returned, or is planning a trip to Hawaii. With most international destinations still off limits for Americans, Hawaii is the perfect escape—mainlanders can enjoy a far flung holiday without leaving the USA. A trip to paradise during the pandemic is not going to happen without planning though. Gone are the days of buying a ticket and showing up at the airport. The State of Hawaii has testing requirements and rules in place to safeguard the health of its citizens and those wishing to enjoy a tropical get-away. Here’s what you need to know before you go.
First step—visit Safe Travels: State of Hawaii https://travel.hawaii.gov Here’s where you’ll find all current travel rules and requirements. They change frequently! You can also find helpful information at http://hawaiicovid19.com. You will need a Covid-19 test within 72-hours of travel and it must be administered by an approved testing organization. These are listed on the website. We used Carbon Health at San Diego’s airport. It was seamless and our results were back in plenty of time to upload and add to our documentation on the SafeTravelHawaii site. It was not inexpensive—we paid $170 each but knowing we’d have our results back on time reduced our stress level considerably.
There is also a mandatory online questionnaire to complete. Once you’ve submitted all the information required, the State of Hawaii will send you a QR code. You will need this to check in for your flight and at your hotel. Some car rental companies may also want to see and scan your code. Consider printing a copy or two and keeping it with you along with a printed copy of your negative Covid-19 test results. WiFi can be spotty and you may need to show the QR code even when you can’t access it on your mobile device.
Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own travel regulations. In Maui, you need to download the contact tracing app, for example.
if you’re traveling to Maui, as we were, you’ll need to download the contact tracing app for the island. Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own, very specific rules and travel between islands also requires compliance with local regulations. You must meet all of these requirements even if you are fully vaccinated.
Alaska Airline’s pre-screening meant we got off the plane and started our vacation with no further Covid-19 checks necessary.
Your airline may also be of assistance in your travel preparations. We were able to complete a pre-clearance check before boarding our Alaska Airlines http://www.alaskaair.com flight. The wristbands we were given meant once we landed, we were free to leave the airport with no further interactions or delays. Hawaii means business– there were officials positioned throughout the airport, checking for wristbands. Those without them were whisked away.
Hawaii is a very popular destination right now, especially since most international travel is still off limits to Americans.
There is a mandatory quarantine in effect for anyone arriving without the required testing and documentation. I read recently of a couple who tried to bribe a TSA official upon landing without having been tested. They wanted to avoid quarantine and instead were arrested.
We spent lots of time admiring rainbows, whale watching and staring at the sea in Maui.
Be sure to book your rental car when you buy your air tickets. I’ve heard horror stories lately about the lack of rental car availability and the outrageous prices being charged. Do not expect to find a rental car without a reservation on any of the islands.
Because Hawaii is such a popular destination right now, make restaurant reservations before you leave home. We were lucky to get reservations for the last two nights of our 10-day holiday.
Many popular restaurants were fully booked for the first week of our vacation. We would have booked our favorites before we left home, had we known!
Due to Covid restrictions, restaurants are operating at limited capacity and reservations are a must at most places. Some of the more casual eateries will accept walk-ins and we had a luck with that at Maui Brewing Company www.mauibrewing.com on our first night. If you’re craving beer and a burger (or that tasty kalua pork), this is a great option and it’s family-friendly, too. I’m not much of a beer drinker but our friendly server gave me a few tastes to find one I liked– the Wiamea Red was my pick.
The Wiamea Red and Hazy Big Swell IPA were perfect with our burger and tacos after a long travel day.Maui Brewing makes a wide range of local beers from Bikini Blonde lager to the very robust Imperial Coconut Porter. They offer flights so you can try a few!
They offer their beer to go with or without take-away food orders and it’s priced better at the brewery than the Safeway. They have two locations on Maui and two on Oahu. We ate at the Lahaina/Kahana outpost.
If you are up for a night out and enjoy Asian cuisine, Star Noodle in Lahaina www.starnoodle.com gets two thumbs up from us. We had such a delicious lunch that we returned for dinner later in our stay.
Great food and a fabulous location make Star Noodle one of our top picks!
The seating is almost all outdoors and right on the ocean–just what you want on a Hawaiian holiday. All the noodles are made in-house and both the Hot n Sour noodles and Singapore noodles were delicious.
All the noodles at Star Noodle are made in-house and are delicious!
The Nuoc Cham wings were so tasty we ate them both times! The Adobo Ribs were excellent as were the Colossal Tempura Shrimp but beware—these dishes sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
These Nuoc Cham wings were so good we ordered them twice.We enjoyed a lunch and a dinner at Star Noodle. Reservations for both are required!
Star Noodle is located right next door to the Old Lahaina Luau www.oldlahainaluau.com and during our dinner we could hear the drumming and the singing from next door. I even caught a glimpse of a few performers headed to the stage.
The Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best and most popular on the island. They sell out months in advance during the high season.
This brought back happy memories of traveling to Maui with our kids when they were younger and a trip to the luau was a Hawaiian highlight. The concierge at the Westin told me that the Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best on the island but get your tickets way in advance—it sells out quickly!
Dukes is a popular spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
On our last night in Maui, we opted for the extremely popular Duke’s Beach House www.dukesmaui.com since it was just a short walk up the beach from the Nanea. We had booked early in the trip and honestly, my expectations were not high but the food and the service far surpassed what I imagined a place packed with tourists would offer. I had delicious, seared ahi and my husband opted for a huge and tasty burger.
The ahi was perfectly fresh and seared just right.They make a big, tasty burger at Duke’s Maui.
They offered us a complimentary Hulu pie—their signature dessert, but we were too full to accept. They also had live music—a treat after being locked down for so long– and they’re right across from the beach so tables close to the esplanade have lovely views. Duke’s serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Make reservations!
Grilling at the oceanfront condo we rented took the sting out of cooking on vacation.
After cooking at home for months and months, we found ourselves still cooking on vacation most nights, but the change of scenery made it much more palatable! We stayed in a condo in Kahana our first five nights https://www.vacasa.com/unit/15880 and had a well-equipped kitchen and sparkling clean BBQ grills in the pool area which we used nightly. It was pretty special to grill just feet from the ocean and enjoy our meals on the balcony while whale watching! That’s something we can’t do at home.
We had rainbows at breakfast, whale watching at lunch, and spectacular sunsets before dinner every night from the balcony at our Hololani rental.
Our last five nights were at the Westin Nanea, an upscale timeshare on the north end of Ka’anapali. We had a very large two-bedroom unit with an eat-in kitchen and all the amenities we needed. http://marriott.com The pools were busy but the adjacent lawn area and beach were peaceful.
Both the Westin Nanea and its sister property Ocean Resort Villas further down the beach were buzzing with activity during our stay. We had a fully-equipped kitchen, a dining area plus a balcony with table and chairs at our two-bedroom, two bath villa. There was plenty of room to spread out in our unit at the family-friendly Westin Nanea.
Dining options on the property were very limited due to Covid but BBQ grills were placed throughout the expansive property so we’d grab a glass of wine and our fish and head down the elevators to cook most nights. We met some lovely people while preparing our meals!
Guests will find BBQ grills throughout the grounds at the Nanea.
If you are planning a “self-catering” holiday in Maui where you have a kitchen and/or grill available, be sure to stock up at the Costco near the airport. We got most of the basics, wine, and fantastic fresh fish there. I also picked up a lightweight rain jacket which came in very handy on this trip. You’ll also find chocolate covered macadamia nuts, Hawaiian coffee, and other edible souvenirs at a fraction of the price of the touristy shops around the island. Watch out for the chickens roaming the parking lot!
These chickens were in Lahaina but their cousins were everywhere– including the Costco parking lot.
If you don’t have a Costco membership or just want a few things, the Lahaina Safeway will have what you need. We made a trip or two there, as well.
Pick up pies both sweet and savory—it is vacation after all–at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu https://www.leodas.com. There’s always a line but it goes quickly. The Olowalu Lime and Chocolate Macadamia were my favorites!
Leoda’s is a popular stop for sweet and savory pies, sandwiches and more. Avoid disappointment and go early or order online! Pies sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
Right next door is the Olowalu Juice Stand and Farmer’s Market for fresh fruits and vegetables, ice cold coconuts, sweets and more. We watched a Farmer’s Market clerk with a machete make quick work of a coconut, preparing it for a customer in minutes– paper umbrella and all. There’s also a small general store and the Butterfly Farm here.
Grab one of Olowalu Juice Stand’s tropical smoothies and head next door to the Farmer’s Market where fresh coconuts and pineapples are big sellers.We didn’t go in, but the Butterfly Farm is close to Leoda’s and the Juice Stand in Olowalu.
After a long year of not traveling, our trip to Maui was just what we needed. It was exciting to be on an airplane again and to spend some time in such a beautiful, tropical paradise—without ever leaving our own country!
What a wonderful trip after a long year without travel!
Next up, I’ll share about some of the places we explored in Maui when we weren’t gazing out to sea, watching for whales, and enjoying rainbows!
Note- This article was written in April 2021. Many Covid-related restrictions have changed since that time.
In just over a month’s time, one of the most extensive and engaging exhibitions of Pablo Picasso’s sculpture ever presented in the United States will close. If you haven’t already visited the Museum of Modern Art’s marvelous retrospective of the painter’s rarely seen works, get your tickets and go see it before it closes on Feb. 7, 2016. http://www.moma.org
A visitor examines Picasso’s Man With A Lamb(1943).
For the first time since 1967, New York’s MoMA presents one of the largest exhibitions of the painter’s three-dimensional work. The exhibit includes more than 100 sculptures plus photographs and works on paper, many never before displayed in North America. I was fortunate to see the exhibition during the Member Preview before it opened to the public in September.
Left foreground, Woman with Child (1961), center rear, Head of a Woman (1957), right, Chair (1961). All three of these sculptures are painted sheet metal.
While Picasso was a formally trained painter, he was a self-taught sculptor and his work reflects the exuberance and personal relationship he had with the art form. He kept most of his sculptures in his personal possession rarely allowing these works to be displayed. One of the first and only times some of these pieces were presented publicly was in 1966 at a major retrospective at the Petit Palais in Paris when the artist was 85 years old. The following year, the MoMA staged Sculpture of Picasso in New York featuring many of the same works. Picasso’s sculptures have not been on public view on such a grand scale since.
Insect (1951) was created from fired white clay and painted.
Picasso was fond of unconventional techniques and materials and frequently used found objects and materials including scrap wood, wire, metal and cardboard in his sculpture. Wicker baskets, pie tins, palm fronds, toy cars and many other scavenged items found their way into Picasso’s work. He used a bicycle seat and handlebars to create Bull’s Head, which was on loan from a private collection, for example.
Bull’s Head, (Spring 1942) is a repurposed bicycle seat and handlebars.
Left, bronze Pregnant Woman (1949). Right, Flowery Watering Can (1951-52) incorporates a watering can, plaster, nails and wood.
Museumgoers will learn that Picasso’s forays into sculpture were influenced by many sources including ceramics and woodcarvings by Paul Gaugin and Edgar Degas as well as by Oceanic and African sculpture. His themes run the gamut from political expression to family life. Just as in his paintings, women are frequent subjects in Picasso’s sculpture.
Left, Bather (1931) bronze. Right, Head of a Woman (1932) plaster.
Left, Woman with Vase (1933) bronze. Center, Head of a Warrior (1933) plaster, metal and wood.
He enjoyed reinventing and reimagining many of the same themes as the exhibition demonstrates. His Glass of Absinthe – six different polychromed bronze pieces each including an actual absinthe spoon, is a good example of this.
Seated Woman(1947), Standing Woman (1945), Seated Musician (1950), and Seated Faun(1950) are among the small earthenware, terracotta and clay pieces in this display case.
Visitors to Museum of Modern Art http://www.moma.org will need timed tickets to see the Picasso Sculpture exhibition. Only members, corporate members and guests accompanied by members are exempt from this. Each day a limited number of tickets will be available for same day viewing but we strongly suggest that you get your tickets in advance to ensure you don’t miss this wonderful exhibition.
Woman with Outstretched Arms (1961) painted iron and sheet metal.
Published in conjunction with the exhibition and available in the MoMA’s book and gift shops, the Picasso Sculpture catalog makes a beautiful souvenir that will allow you to revisit your favorite works again and again.
