I have a fear of heights. I’ll admit it. Standing at the cable car station in Bolzano/Bozen and staring up at the impressive mountain I was about to ascend made me a little queasy, but I hadn’t come all this way to miss out on my very first hike in the Dolomites. Specifically, a hike to see the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.
The cable car is the fastest and easiest way to reach Soprabolzano/Oberbozen.
We boarded the red gondola along with a group of young men laden with picnic provisions and camping gear and up we went. I choked back my apprehension and concentrated on the incredible views as we climbed higher and higher up the mountain toward SopraBolzano/Oberbozen.
The views are exceptional as you ascend the 1221 meters to the mountaintop.
It’s possible to take a bus or drive up the steep switchbacks to reach the town, but the cable car is much faster and easier. It departs every four minutes and takes less than 15 minutes to reach the top– 1221 meters above Bolzano/Bozen.
Hikers and campers shared our gondola for the 15-minute ride.
The cable car deposits you right across the street from the historic narrow- gauge Renon/Ritten Railroad. Be sure to buy a round trip combo ticket for the cable car and the railroad when you purchase your ticket at the Bolzano/Bozen station.
The historic railroad has been carrying passengers since 1907.
Trains run every 30 minutes during peak daytime hours. Climb aboard and enjoy the mountain views on the 20-minute ride from SopraBolzano/Oberbozen to Collalbo/Klobenstein. We passed farms, cows, hikers and traditional Alpine A-frame homes as we whizzed by to the end of the line.
We zipped along through the beautiful Alpine countryside enjoying the views.
It’s a short walk from the station through a residential neighborhood to the center of Collalbo/ Klobenstein where lunch can be had a several restaurants. Most seemed to offer the same traditional South Tyrol dishes but the two we had our eye on were closing shortly and wouldn’t seat us.
The path from the train station into Collalbo/Klobenstein goes through a residential area.
It’s a pleasant stroll from the train station and fun to see all the carefully tended gardens along the way.
One of the gardens we passed was creatively decorated with gnomes and a Disney princess.
It was disappointing to be turned away from several restaurants because we arrived too close to the kitchen closing, but we kept searching!
Sleek Zentral was a welcome sight for these hungry travelers.
We were directed to Zentral by a harried hostess and off we went in search of sustenance. We were not disappointed and were soon tucking into a perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel and a tasty mushroom and polenta dish. We had a crisp local white wine with the meal and finished up with some house made gelato.
Crisp, perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel was just right for lunch.
Menus in the Sud Tirol usually feature Austrian and Italian influenced dishes and are always seasonal.
A medley of local mushrooms atop polenta was outstanding.
Save room for dessert! Cakes and gelato are always on offer.
There’s always room for gelato.
There is a mix of Austrian and Italian influences in this autonomous area of Italy, which was a part of Austria until the end of World War I. German is the predominant and preferred language in the Sud Tirol, though signage and menus are generally printed in German, Italian and sometimes English. You’ll find many people speak English, particularly in hotels, shops and restaurants here.
Signs indicate directions and show how long it will take to reach your destination.
After a satisfying lunch we headed off towards our destination—Longomoso/Lengmoos and the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten. It’s an easy 30-minute hike from town to see these natural wonders, said to be Europe’s highest and most perfectly shaped examples of the boulder- topped pillars.
It’s an easy 30- minute hike to the earth pyramids.
Paths are well-marked and part of the way to the earth pyramids is paved.
Signs in German and Italian point the way.
The views just get better and better as you continue your hike!
The earth pyramids at Renon/Ritten are 25,000 years old.
Called erdpyramiden in German or piramidi di terra in Italian, the conical pillars were formed 25,000 years ago from the moraine clay soil left behind when the last of the Ice Age glaciers covering the Valle d’Isarco melted away. It takes thousands of years for earth pyramids to form and the process is a dynamic one.
These earth pyramids are said to be the highest and most perfectly shaped in Europe.
In dry weather, the soil is rock hard, but rain softens the earth and carries away the soil. The rocks left behind in the mud protect the clay soil beneath them, which rises from the earth to form the pyramids—capped by the boulders that allowed them to develop. As older earth pyramids collapse, new ones form. They really are spectacular to see!
New pillars are formed as the older ones collapse.
These are some of the most impressive earth pyramids in the world and some of the oldest!
The boulders capping the pyramids protect them and allow them to develop.
At the end of the trail from Collalbo/Klobenstein, there is a large viewing platform with panoramic vistas over the valley to the earth pyramids in the nearby gorge, with maps and helpful information in German, Italian and English. We were lucky to have the platform to ourselves much of the time, though during busy summer months the popular site draws crowds.
We made it to the top!
Keep going– enjoy the views and pose for a silly picture at the top.
A handy map shows points of interest.
Many natural sites in this area have maps that include highlights of the area and give a sense of place.
Informational signs are in German, Italian and English at this popular site.
After enjoying the sensational view of the earth pyramids for quite some time, we began the hike back. We came upon the Café Erdpyramiden along the way.
We were happy to find the cafe open as there are no services or facilities near the viewing platform.
The cafe is a handy stop since there are no facilities at the viewing platform or along the trail to reach it.
Stop in for coffee, cold drinks, snacks and local wine.
It’s a great place to enjoy the view, have a drink and a snack and use the facilities!
Bring your drink out on the back terrace and enjoy a last look at the earth pyramids.
A pleasant stroll back past historic buildings, churches, homes, a pond and grazing cows took us back to town and the train station.
It’s a beautiful walk through the countryside to and from the earth pyramids.
Enjoy the walk back– it’s an easy trek.
It’s hard to get lost with signage everywhere!
Our timing was perfect and five minutes later we were chugging along toward home, which in our case was the Nepora Design Hotel in nearby Settequerce.
Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours and we timed our return perfectly.
We wandered around SopraBolzano/Oberbozen, admiring the views and checking out lodging for a future trip before heading back down to Bolzano/Bozen on the cable car.
The comfortable lobby at Gloriette Guesthouse. Love the baby buggy bar.
We popped in the the Gloriette Guesthouse to check it out for a return visit to the area.
We had a nice wander around the town of Soprabolzano/Oberbozen before heading to the cable car.Making our descent into the center of Bolzano/Bozen after a wonderful day in the Dolomites.
We will definitely return to this spectacular area and its natural wonders and suggest you add it to your list, too. In the meantime you can enjoy the virtual view here.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book through TravelTawk.com, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on gelato.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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He’s an international man of mystery, media darling, and a murder victim. Ötzi the Iceman was brutally killed about 5,300 years ago and is the oldest known natural human mummy in Europe. A German couple hiking the Ötzel Alps discovered his body on September 19, 1991 on a glacier in Northern Italy about 100 meters across the Austrian border. That’s how he got his nickname. We spent an afternoon with Ötzi, in Bolzano Bozen not far from his birthplace in the Dolomites.
Ötzi ‘s final resting place is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen, not far from where he was born and where his body was discovered 5,300 years later.
Custody Battle for Mummy
After a brief custody dispute (both Austria and Italy laid claim to Ötzi) research on his mummified body began at Innsbruck University in Austria. He has found a final resting place at Italy’s South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen. Today, the entire museum is dedicated to Ötzi and life in the Copper Age. Visitors can peek through a small glass window to view Ötzi’s body, which is kept in a climate controlled, sealed vault. Be patient, there is always a line to see him.
Ötzi‘s body is preserved in a viewable, climate- controlled vault but signage asks visitors to be respectful and refrain from photographing his remains. This acrylic model is provided for photos.
Scientists have created a remarkably life-like reconstruction of Ötzi, one of the world’s most fascinating murder victims and Europe’s oldest natural human mummy.
A 3-D reconstruction gives a surprisingly lifelike depiction of what Ötzi would have looked like. He was believed to be 45 years old when he met his untimely death. At 5’3’’ and 110 lbs., he was short and stocky, but muscular. He wasn’t in the pink of health when his life was cut short, though. He had tooth decay, parasites and H. pylori, which would have caused numerous gastric issues. Scientists were able to retrieve and identify the contents of his stomach which included his last meal. He ate red deer meat, unleavened bread, fruit, and an herb called hop hornbeam. He likely took that to ease his tummy troubles. His hair had high levels of arsenic and copper particles, possibly from smelting copper, which may also have contributed to his ill health. None of these things killed him though.
Ötzi‘s goat hide leggings, bearskin hat, and other garments were remarkably well preserved after 5,300 years entombed in a glacier.
Ötzi ‘s leggings would have extended into his shoes for warmth and protection from the snow and rain.
What He Wore
The garments and accessories Ötzi was wearing when he met his demise were remarkably well preserved by his years of glacial entombment. His lambskin loincloth, goat hide coat and leggings, and bearskin hat are all on exhibit, along with what remains of his shoes with their cow hide laces. His shoes are really something to see. They were made from bearskin soles, deer hide uppers and tree bark netting, and were lined with grasses that acted like socks and cushioned his feet for the long treks he made through the mountains.
Bearskin, deerskin, tree bark netting and hay-like grasses went into the construction of his shoes. Here you can see the structural foundation as well as what remains of his well worn shoes.
Even his deerskin quiver and arrows survive. Because of the variety of animal skins used in his clothing and accessories, researchers believe that Ötzi kept and herded domesticated animals like sheep, goats and cows. Domestication of these animals was earlier than was previously thought, thanks to research done on Ötzi.
Scientists discovered blood, not his own, on Ötzi ‘s goat skin coat, adding to the mystery around his murder.
He also had a grass cape with him, either to wear as a raincoat or to sleep upon. Maybe both. Displays show how all of his garments fit together to protect him from the elements. It was pretty complicated!
Drawings indicate how Ötzi would have dressed. Fitting each item together was a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.
Ötzi Liked Ink
Ötzi is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the oldest person on earth to sport tattoos. His body is adorned with 61 of them made by rubbing charcoal dust into fresh wounds. These are certainly not the elaborate tattoos seen today. They’re mostly crosses and lines on his back, ribs, wrist and legs and may have been used for pain relief.
The copper head on Ötzi‘s axe came from far-away Tuscany, which meant he traveled widely or traded, or both.
Researchers have been able to piece together a great deal about the life and times of Ötzi the Iceman based on his clothing and the items found alongside him. He had a copper-bladed axe, which would have made him a high-status individual. The copper was from Tuscany, quite a distance away, so he traveled or traded, or both. He also had a flint dagger from the Lake Garda area, arrows, incomplete shafts and longbow, plus a net. Ötzi was definitely a hunter.
The articles found near his body give us great insights into Ötzi ‘s lifestyle and activities. A backpack frame, shown here, was one of many personal belongings discovered with him in 1991.
He had several wooden tools used to fashion clothes or utensils. He would have needed these to make repairs or construct needed items on his long treks. He also had a birch bark cylinder likely used to carry hot embers for quickly starting a cook fire and a complex fire-starting kit. These would have been handy on his journeys for cooking and for warmth. Ötzi has shown us that people traveled more widely than previously believed during the Copper Age, trading goods, services and knowledge.
Visitors can examine Ötzi ‘s clothing, weapons, even the contents of his last meal, and learn what scientists have finally determined was his cause of death.
Who or What Killed Ötzi ?
Researchers know what the iceman wore and ate and likely what he did for a living, but mystery surrounded his murder until 2012. Was he struck in the head with a blunt object? Stabbed? Shot in the back with an arrow? Was there a fight? Or all of these things? Scrappy Ötzi was definitely a hunter and a fighter. Blood from four different individuals was found on his dagger, coat and on one of his arrows which could mean a battle. He had several broken ribs that had healed before death, and he had been struck in the head. His brain had evidence of clots which could have been from blunt force trauma that then caused stroke or embolism. He also had stab wounds on his hands. The likeliest cause of death was the arrow lodged in his left shoulder. Finally, in 2012, researchers agreed that Ötzi had bled to death from the arrow wound.
Ötzi and the mysteries surrounding him have made him a popular media subject across the globe.
Ötzi’s discovery made quite a stir worldwide and was also marked by controversy. Once the significance of the find was reported, numerous people claimed to have found the body. The museum has an exhibit detailing much of the media coverage around him. He is so scientifically important; the museum has a specific evacuation plan for him should a crisis arise that could damage him. He has opened a window into life in the Copper Age that would have remained closed, had those hikers not stumbled upon him back in 1991.
Helmut and Erika Simon, a German couple, were credited with finding Ötzi s body on the Tisenjoss Pass, just over the Austrian border in Italy, while hiking in the Otzel Alps.
Otzi’s Lineage Continues
In 2012 Ötzi’s genome was sequenced using a bit of his hip bone, revealing he had brown eyes, type O blood, a predisposition to heart disease, was lactose intolerant, and may have had Lyme disease. His maternal line is extinct, but his paternal lineage is intact. In 2013, 19 Austrian men from a group of 3,700 tested, shared a unique genetic mutation with him. Scientists believe that his descendants would have settled between the Dolomites and Sardinia. His genetic profile has much in common with Sardinians today. Scientists suspect that there are likely many more of his descendants alive and well.
Our afternoon with Ötzi was fascinating and we’d highly recommend a visit if you’re in the BolzanoBozen area.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
This article and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright laws.
You may notice affiliate links included in this article. If you click and book, I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support! I promise not to spend it all on gelato.
If you like spending your sunny days outdoors, head to Bend, Oregon. Hiking, biking, fishing, rock climbing, floating, kayaking, and paddle boarding are just a few of the outdoor pursuits that make Bend (and nearby Central Oregon communities) enormously popular in summer months. Spectacular waterfalls, lakes, and lava flows are close by and the mighty Deschutes River winds its way right through the city.
The Deschutes River runs right through Bend, Oregonproviding plenty of summer fun for kayakers, paddle boarders and floaters.
I noticed a sign saying, “Defund Visit Bend,” posted on a bridge on a recent stay, but I’ve always found the locals friendly and happy to share the attractions their city offers. As a frequent visitor, here are some of my favorite places to go out and play:
I think floating on the Deschutes River is one of the best ways to while away a summer afternoon in Bend, and I’m not alone in that opinion. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, one quarter of a million people take to the river on floats, paddle boards and kayaks, according to VisitBend.com. Weekends get really crowded. If you can, do your floating mid-week. There are rules for everyone’s safety. Wear your personal flotation device (there are no lifeguards on the river), and alcoholic beverages are not permitted. It’s the law.
Early on a midweek morning, you’ll share the river with more ducks than people.
What You’ll Need
We’ve seen plenty of dogs floating with their humans, but it is not recommended, even with doggie life jackets. Neither are pool toys and floats; they aren’t sturdy enough for the rocks and branches you’ll encounter. If you don’t have your own, rent equipment at Park & Float or Riverbend Park. PFDs are free to borrow at both places. Reserve your floats in advance since it’s first come, first served, at the rental places.
Pets and pool toys belong at home, not on the river.Follow the “tips for success” for everyone’s safety.
Along with your water bottle, sunscreen, hat, and rash guard, remember your aqua socks. Get a pair with sturdy soles to protect your feet from rocks. Leave your flip flops at home. You’ll also want a dry bag to keep your car keys, wallet and phone safe while you float along. If you didn’t bring one, there’s an REI in the Old Mill District.
There’s a short section of the Deschutes with rapids, but you can choose to go over them or not.
Keep an eye out for the white water rapids under the Colorado Avenue Bridge. Fear not, it’s a short segment of the river. If you’re not up for the adrenaline rush, it’s easy to leave the river just before the rapids and put back in after you pass them. There are warning signs in the river that show where to go.
It’s fun to watch people navigate the rapids on their floats, paddle boards, kayaks, and sometimes, surf boards, from the safety of the shore. Depending on where you put in (and the currents) your river “cruise” will take between one and two hours.
Surf’s up on the Deschutes! Bring your board and enjoy the ride.
The Old Mill District: Go for the Music, Bird Watching, and More
Hayden Homes Amphitheater hosts high wattage talent all summer long.
You’ll have floated (or paddled) right by the Old Mill District on your river outing. The towering smokestacks you passed have become a Bend landmark, and are all that remain of what were once two highly productive lumber mills.
Now the Old Mill District is a thriving gathering place with restaurants, bars, shops and Hayden Homes, the largest outdoor music venue in Oregon. The amphitheater has 8,000 seats, including lawn spots, and features chart toppers in every genre from alt rock to cowboy crooners all summer long. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a sultry summer night!
Paved paths along the Deschutes beckon bike riders and dog walkers.
The inviting pathways along both sides of the Deschutes at the Old Mill make it easy to walk, jog, or bike along the river. If you don’t have your own two wheels, Wheel Fun bike rentals are open seasonally. Bend is a dog-friendly town so bring your furry friend for a stroll here, but please obey leash laws.
This is also a great place for bird watching. Pick up a free guide at the Ticket Mill or the Bend Visitor Center before you set out. Raptors, woodpeckers, songbirds, waterfowl and shorebirds as well as owls and quails call Bend and its environs home or are migratory visitors. The East Cascades Bird Alliance occasionally offers free guided “bird walks” along the river.
Bird watching is a popular pastime at the Old Mill.
If you’re looking for retail therapy, the Old Mill has everything from clothing to fine jewelry, accessories and sporting goods. There are also plenty of places to eat and drink. But let’s get back to the great outdoors.
Climb Smith Rock
Smith Rock State Park draws rock climbers from around the world. It’s a great place to hike and bike, too.
Some claim rock climbing was invented at Smith Rock State Park in nearby Terrebonne. Whether that’s true or not, with a ridge elevation of 3,200 feet, the high volcanic walls are a big draw for climbers from around the world. That’s not for me, but the scenic hiking trails are.
Choose the well-marked trails that best match your abilities from the easy Canyon Trail to the aptly named Misery Ridge Trail. You’ll enjoy spectacular vistas on whichever trail you follow, especially the ones overlooking Crooked River. Smith Rock is also popular for fishing and mountain biking. It’s a beautiful place to spend the day.
The scenic trails along Crooked River are my favorite.
There is little to no shade at Smith Rock State Park, and it gets really hot in Central Oregon in the summertime. Try to get out on the trail early and bring plenty of water. Rangers recommend 16 oz. per person per hour. Wear sunscreen and appropriate footwear and be mindful that this is a wilderness area. Watch out for wildlife and snakes.
Smith Canyon’s majestic volcanic walls.Choose trails that match your ability. You don’t want to have to use the emergency equipment!Smith Rock State Park’s Welcome Center has passes, maps and more.
There is a $10 day use fee for Oregon residents ($12.50 for all others), unless you have an annual Oregon State Park pass. Smithrock.com has all the details you’ll need to plan your outing. Check in at the Welcome Center in the parking lot for passes, maps and information.
Get out on the trail as early as you can in the summer. Stop at Juniper Junction.Time for huckleberry ice cream
Ice Cream
There are no services in the park, but plan to stop at nearby Juniper Junction. Rockhard has the most delicious huckleberry ice cream I’ve ever tasted. Reward yourself after your exertions! The small store also has local crafts, souvenirs, and snacks. Contact them for rock climbing guides.
Alpacas!
Meet the friendly alpacas at Crescent Moon Ranch.The babies are adorable.Shop for alpaca everything!
On your way back to Bend, stop at the Crescent Moon Alpaca Ranch. Walk around the enclosure, learn about, and feed these fuzzy creatures whose wool is so prized. These alpacas are super friendly and so are the people who work here. We saw new babies in the barn and you might, too. Crescent Moon has a terrific gift shop with all things alpaca from gorgeous knitwear to stuffed toys and lotions and potions made locally. They sell the alpaca food there, too.
Newberry National Volcanic Monument
Volcanic activity began here 500,000 years ago and produced 400 cinder cones, lava tubes, and vents amid a flow area that covers 1,200 square miles. Newberry National VolcanicMonumentin the Deschutes National Forest covers 57,384 acres of that area, which means there are plenty of places to explore the fascinating geological formations created by volcanoes in Central Oregon.
Some sites in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument are accessible to all, others are not for the mobility challenged. Big Obsidian Flow is in the latter category. Formed only 1,300 years ago, it is the youngest lava flow here.
This is the “trail” up the Big Obsidian Flow. Figuring out where to safely put my feet was a challenge.
Beware Changeable Weather
Somehow we thought it would be fun to climb what turned out to be an extremely treacherous one- mile loop to the top of the razor-sharp flow. It was all about the views of surrounding mountains and Paulina Lake for us. While we were enjoying the sights from the top, suddenly lightning flashed, thunder roared, and the rain poured down. Realizing we were the tallest things up there, we ran for our lives as carefully as we could down the hazardous, barely- there trail, getting soaked to the skin. It was an adventure we laugh about now.
There’s Paulina Lake behind us. We were woefully unprepared for the downpour.Weather changes fast in the high desert. By the time we reached Paulina Lake Lodge, we were still dripping but the sun was shining.
We’d gone from sunshine to torrential rains and back to sunshine by the time we reached nearby Paulina Lake. We knew we’d find restrooms, shelter and food there. A kind woman on the restroom line took one look at my soaking wet hair and clothes and offered me her beach towel. I gladly accepted. Paulina Lake is popular for boating and fishing and has a lodge with a casual restaurant. They rent boats ranging from canoes to motorboats, but I’d had enough water for one day.
Welcome to Lava Lands!
There are spectacular views across the lava fields to the mountains beyond at Lava Lands.
Lava Lands Visitor Centerwith its Chitwood Exhibit Hall is a great place to begin your exploration of the Newbury National Volcanic Monument. Named for a former geologist with the U.S. Forest Service, the Chitwood Exhibit Hall is full of educational, interactive exhibits on the geology and cultural history of the area including a 3D topographical map. There are daily films and helpful Forest Service Ranger talks.
The 7,000 -year old lava flows here came from Lava Butte, above.The paved Sun Lava Trail is accessible to all.
Step outside the visitors center and you’ll enter Lava Land. There’s a 5.5-mile fully accessible Sun Lava Trail as well as the Trail of Molten Land over the 7,000-year-old lava that flowed down from nearby Lava Butte. There are plenty of informative signs about the geological features, the wildlife, and the original inhabitants on these lands. A seasonal shuttle takes visitors to Lava Butte for a fee, or you can hike up. There’s also a pleasant walk through a young forest along the Trail of the Whispering Pines.
Had we come here first, we would have been better prepared for Big Obsidian Flow! There are picnic tables and restrooms here as well as a well-stocked gift shop.
Spooky and Surreal Lava Cast Forest
All that remains of a majestic forest are these otherworldly lava casts.
Once upon a time, an enormous forest stood where lava casts of this old growth forest now lie. About 7,000 years ago molten lava caught the trees on fire, and the resulting steam formed the casts. It’s an extraordinary place and fascinating to see.
The landscape is eerily beautiful at Lava Cast Forest.There are helpful informational signs on the trail.The trail is less accessible as it winds into the forest.
The beginning of the trail from the parking lot is paved and accessible to all, but further out into the Lava Cast Forest the trail becomes rough and nearly disappears in places. Strollers or wheelchairs should turn back, but hikers can continue down the switchback through the Ponderosa Pines. There are no services and no shade here so be prepared for heat and sun, and pack accordingly.
Waterfalls
You’ll need to hike to see this waterfall in Deschutes County.
The Northwest Waterfalls Survey lists more than 60 waterfalls in Deschutes County, some unnamed. At almost 100 feet, Tumalo Falls is the tallest and one of the most popular waterfalls in Central Oregon. It’s easy to reach and busy with bikers and hikers. For fewer crowds, head halfway between Bend and Sunriver to see both Dillon and Benham Falls. We visited both one afternoon.
It’s a thrill to watch the whitewater race by at these atypical waterfalls in the Deschutes National Forest.
These are very different from the typical cascading waterfalls you might expect, but well worth a visit. Reach these falls by either hiking the Deschutes River Trail between the two or driving to each. We drove and hiked the trails along the river at each of the falls.
Take a moment. Breathe in the fragrant pines and enjoy the spectacular white water views!
The one-mile accessible trail from the day use/parking area at Dillon Falls takes you through the towering Ponderosa pines to a lookout point over the river. The river narrows here, and you can view the raging rapids furiously funneling through the channel as it drops, creating Dillon Falls. The lava flow on the opposite shore is impressive, too.
Volcanic walls force the powerful rapids through a narrow channel in the Deschutes forming Dillon Falls.The waters near Dillon Falls are extremely dangerous.
Beware! The river here runs tremendously fast and turns into Class-V whitewater. It is as treacherous as it is beautiful and a recent tubing accident resulted in fatalities. If you are not an expert on the water, the views are best enjoyed from the trail. Hike along the riverbank to enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Dillon Falls has roiling rapids and class-5 whitewater. It’s a beautiful hike along the riverbank and a much safer place to enjoy these raging waters.
South of Dillon, you’ll find Benham Falls. At 25 feet, Benham is the largest waterfall on the Upper Deschutes River. There’s no monumental cascade of water, instead you’ll see a series of powerful rapids rushing over steep volcanic rock. The drop forms Benham Falls. You may see rafters and kayakers paddling through the fast-moving river here, surrounded by high volcanic walls. We also spotted hardy mountain bikers on the rugged trail as we relaxed with our picnic lunch.
Enjoy the tranquility.Take a hike through giant Ponderosa Pines at Benham Falls.Rushing white water and lava flows are hallmarks of Benham Falls.
Just beyond the Newbury Caldera, 80 feet high Paulina Falls is another favorite. There’s a short, accessible trail to the double-plumed waterfall and a picnic area. Hike further along to view the majestic falls from above, which we did. You won’t be alone here; these falls are popular.
You’ll need a $5 day use pass, Northwest Forest annual pass, or a lifetime America the Beautiful pass available to people age 62+ for $80 wherever you see signs saying, “Recreation fee required.” Click here for pass and permit information.
But Wait, There’s More
Bend has plenty to offer in all seasons, and it’s especially enjoyable in summertime. Visitors can explore the Ale Trail, High Desert Food Trail, and Roundabout Art Route. Downtown Bend is a delight with boutiques, restaurants, breweries, and bars. There are world-class golf resorts, and even a tea producer in this growing city.
Bend has something for everyone.
Woman-owned Metolius blends responsibly- sourcedteas from family farms and small co-ops, along with delicious handcrafted syrups. You can sample their popular chai, Earl Gray and other teas at local cafes including Sisters Coffee and the Backporch. They’ll ship your online order or you can pick it up when you’re in Bend. I love their teas and was lucky enough to have a private tour there.
Metolius Teas are handcrafted in Bend.Tea for two! Chai Lattes with Cardamom Rose garnish from Metolius.Yum!
There are also notable museums in and around Bend, including the High Desert Museum, my favorite! More on that in another article.
Have some outdoor fun in Bend before the sun sets on summer.
Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or taking the whole family; go and enjoy this outdoor paradise while the summer days are long.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
This and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US copyright laws and may not be reproduced without permission.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you for your support!
We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day. It was early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.
With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.
The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion, and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.
While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.
Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.
The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.
Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.
Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.
Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.
Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.
There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.
Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.
Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.
The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.
Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed. She was still a striking figure though.
An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.
This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.
Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings long lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created.
The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.
The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.
The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. Who doesn’t want to climb inside?
I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938. He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.
A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.
The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno. Dante writes a warning above the Gates of Hell, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built-in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.
Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!I couldn’t do it.
Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger; purposefully, scholars think. There’s not much to see inside other than the family crest and motto. Some believe that the house represents the Orsini family’s falling fortunes, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!
Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.
Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules, a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.
Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.
Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine, a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are the Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions, and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.
The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.
There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that surprise and delight visitors around every turn.
Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.
Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.
Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken-hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.
Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.
A Pegasus in the garden represents the Farnese family; Orsini’s in-laws. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.
Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.
Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited, including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este, are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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We can’t help with the weather, crowds and unexpected events vying to take a toll on your summer fun, but these practical tips will help you get organized, take some of the stress out of overseas travel, and hopefully make your adventures better and much more fun whenever and where ever you go!
Check Your Documents
Make sure your passport is valid six months from your return date or renew it now!
You already have a passport if you’re planning on leaving the U.S. this summer, (please say yes) but is it up to date? Renew it today if it’s not valid for at least six months from your scheduled return date and be prepared to pay to expedite this. If you’ve waited until the busy summer season, it is going to take longer to process. Visit the US State Department to get all the information you’ll need.
Are You a Trusted Traveler?
Save time and stress at the airport. Sign up for TSA Precheck, Global Entry and/or CLEAR to expedite travel. Some credit cards, like American Express Platinum, will cover the fees for these programs. You need to have an in-person interview to complete the application process for Global Entry and an in-person appointment for Precheck. Enroll in CLEAR on the spot at certain US airports and check to see if your airport has free “security reservations” allowing you to book a time to pass through security lines.
Save time and stress at the airport– enroll in Trusted Traveler programs!
Include your “known traveler” number in all your flight reservations and on your airline loyalty program(s) profile. Enroll today if you haven’t already.
Back Up Plan
Many people keep digital boarding passes on their phones, but there are instances when WiFi isn’t available, or some glitch causes those boarding passes to disappear. Print your boarding passes. If you don’t have a printer at home, use the kiosks in the airport before you go through security.
Keep photos of all your important documents on your phone.
Take a photo of your passport and other important documents and keep them on your phone. Make color copies of these documents. Keep one set with you and leave one at home or with a trusted friend or neighbor.
If Your Passport is Lost or Stolen
This will come in handy if your passport is lost or stolen. Having a copy with us made replacing my husband’s passport much simpler when it was stolen in London, both when we filed the mandatory police report and at the US Embassy.
London is a fascinating city but getting a passport stolen there wasn’t fun. If this happens to you, file a police report before you go to the US Embassy.
Be sure to have replacement photos correctly sized to meet US passport requirements. Most European countries use a different size than the US does. We made this mistake and it was costly and time consuming to go back for photos a second time.
Sometimes GPS doesn’t work. Bring paper maps, just in case!
We use Google Maps everywhere. GPS is usually reliable, but there have been instances when it is not, or we cannot access maps we thought we downloaded while on WiFi. We wound up facing down a tractor barreling towards us on a dirt tract while looking for our friend’s winery outside Lisbon. Bring paper maps as a backup.
Amazon and American Automobile Association (AAA) are good sources. We like the detailed Michelin maps which show even the smallest backroads. Be sure to pack a car charger and a phone holder along with those maps!
Get the App
Download the apps for all the airlines you’ll fly on your trip before you leave home.
Driving
If you really want to explore a country and have the most flexibility in your travels, you’ll need a car. You won’t have to adhere to train schedules and can go where ever you like, no matter how far off-the-beaten path your wanderlust takes you.
To really enjoy the Tuscan countryside, you’ll need a car.
Driving in the EU is not that different from driving in the US. Roads are well-signed and in good shape in most places. To see what’s it’s really like to drive in other countries, check out Tripiamo‘s driving guides. You’ll need an International Driver’s License, also called an International Driver’s Permit (IDP), to drive in Europe and elsewhere overseas.
Most overseas locations require an IDP. Get one before you leave home.
Get one at your local American Automobile Association (AAA). Download and complete the form at home and bring it, your state- issued driving license and the $20.00 fee with you. You can have your photos taken at AAA. They’re the same size as passport photos. The IDP must be issued in the US before travel and cannot be obtained more than six months before departure.
You Need a What?
Some countries like Austria and Slovenia require a vignette to drive in their country. You purchase these just before crossing the border, usually at a rest stop or gas station. There will be signs. Most vignettes are digital now and register your license plate for a certain number of days, but there are still some places that sell a sticker you’ll need to affix to your windshield. Rental car companies typically do not provide these and you can be pulled over and fined if you haven’t gotten a vignette.
Book Your Rental Car Early
For best pricing and options, if you want an automatic for example, book your car early.
Book your rental car when you book your air tickets and hotels. Chances are good that you will get a much better deal, the earlier you book. Double check prices several times including right before you leave town just to be sure there aren’t any last-minute deals. Do the same with hotels. We have had good luck with Auto Slash. It’s a consolidator for all the major car rental companies, and you can still accrue your loyalty points when you book through them. Sign up for price drop notifications.
Check for damage and photograph your rental car before you drive off.
Examine your rental car carefully and report any and all damage no matter how minor. Take photos on your phone before you drive off. We recently had a situation in Naples where they blamed us for damage to the rim of one wheel and forced us to pay for it before we could catch our plane to Sicily. We had taken photos beforehand and are currently trying to resolve the situation.
Car Services
Another option is a point-to-point car service, like Daytrip, which we used to get from Vienna to Budapest. We had already turned in our rental car since we knew we wouldn’t need it in Vienna or our next and final stop, Budapest. We learned Budapest’s main train station was closed for construction and our plan to take the train would require a train, a bus and a taxi and a lot more time than we had anticipated. Instead, we opted for Daytrip, and enjoyed a very comfortable, door-to-door ride in a Mercedes van. We booked online and found the trip cost about a third of what our hotel quoted for the car service they used.
Take the Train
Train travel in Europe is efficient, often faster than driving, and extremely convenient if you plan to spend your time in cities. I wished we had turned in our car after our drive from Evora in Portugal to Seville, Spain since we only used the car to get from one city to another in Andalusia. We would have saved time and money taking the train from Seville to Granada then on to Cordoba and Madrid.
If you’re going to be exploring the countryside or small towns, like Panzano in Tuscany, you’ll need a car, but in this case, we didn’t. Even though we weren’t driving in the cities we visited, we still had to pay the rental and the garage fees and they added it up, believe me!
If you’re mostly traveling in cities, take the train.
Use Train Apps
Download the apps for any rail lines you plan to use on your trip. I keep TrenItalia and Italo Treno on my phone because I frequently travel in Italy. It’s easy to check schedules, compare prices, book your tickets and select your seats on the app.
Easy to use self-service kiosks are available for rail lines in the station.
Most European countries have their own rail line. There’s SNCF in France, Deutschbahn in Germany, Renfe in Spain, for example. Use their apps to buy tickets and select seats. You can also buy your tickets at the station at self-serve kiosks or at the ticket office, but be aware that popular routes during busy times, like summer weekends and holidays, sell out. If your timing is not flexible, get your tickets in advance. AAA also sells some rail tickets, like EuroRail passes, if you aren’t comfortable using your phone or handling the transactions in person overseas.
Pay attention to both the platform and the train’s number.
Validate
Remember to always validate your ticket in the station before you board the train or risk a significant fine. (This is also true for subways.) Keep an eye on the electronic board for both your train’s number and the platform you’ll need. I shared the story of how I wound up in Genoa because I didn’t look at the train’s number and hopped on an express train instead of the local I should have taken for one stop. That adventure took a few extra hours!
Join Hotel Loyalty Programs
Even if you haven’t stayed at a particular hotel brand before and you’re thinking this could be the time to try it, join their loyalty programs ASAP, before you reserve your room if possible. You can start accruing points and perks right away and may even find program members get a discount or a free breakfast beginning with your first stay. Adler Friends is one example where you’ll get an instant discount.
Being a longtime Marriott Bonvoy member got me an upgrade at Vienna’s Hotel Imperial. There was also birthday cake and champagne waiting for me!
If you’re a traveler of a certain age, investigate senior discounts. Book into one of Portugal’s Pousadas or Spain’s Paradores. These are lovely hotels often housed in historic buildings like a former castle, convent or fortress. If you’re 55 years or older, you’ll save 30 percent on your stay with the Golden Age rate.
It never hurts to ask if you’re eligible for a discount!
Create an Itinerary
Your itinerary should include your flights, hotels, car rental information, train tickets, main points of interest/events (especially those for which you have purchased advance tickets like museums and theater performances), tours, and dinner reservations. Be as complete as possible and include confirmation numbers, addresses, phone numbers and contact information for each.
First time visitors to Europe will want to see the highlights, like the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican in Rome.Include ticket information for the Vatican Museums, which you’ll buy in advance, in your itinerary.
This simple step will help you get organized and be sure there are no gaps or mistakes in your reservations. In the past, I’ve found overlapping dates and a night with no hotel booked once I’ve put all my reservations together in an itinerary. It is a handy way to share details of your travels with with family, friends, and those nice neighbors keeping an eye on things at home. I like TripIt and use their free product for my travels.
Take a “nature break” from your touring and visit green spaces like Madrid’s El Retiro Park.
Take Time to Relax
A detailed itinerary is really helpful to stay organized, but be sure to leave plenty of time for wandering around your chosen destination(s) and making discoveries of your own. Every city has hidden treasures, beautiful parks to explore, and small museums where you won’t fight the crowds. Rome and Paris both have city-run museums that are free to visit and are rarely crowded! Don’t try to see everything. Take your time and focus on a few highlights.
Bring the Right Credit Cards
Not all credit card companies and banks need to know your whereabouts abroad but some do and it’s a lot easier to notify them before you leave rather than risk having your cards or ATM card frozen due to fraud concerns. Make a note of all of the cards and contact numbers and keep it in a secure location in the event they are lost or stolen. Get a four or six-digit PIN for each card before you leave home and only bring cards with no foreign transaction fee. These fees can add 3-4% to every purchase you make.
Consider opening a separate travel checking account linked to an ATM card that you can access while you’re away. If the worst happens, your primary accounts won’t be accessible to thieves.
Leave any credit cards with a foreign transaction fee at home and use your cards for most purchases.
We were surprised to learn that American Express doesn’t cover your rental car issues in certain countries like Italy, Australia and New Zealand but does pretty much everywhere else. Keep that in mind when you choose which card to use!
Cash is Not King But You’ll Need Some
There are certain things you have to pay cash for.A bus ticket from Amalfi to Ravello is one of them.
You don’t need a lot of cash; in fact, you shouldn’t carry much at all. There’s no need with no foreign transaction fee credit cards and ATMs nearly everywhere. We always have a small amount of Euros left at the end of each overseas trip that we stash away for the next one. You can get foreign currency from your local bank but the rate won’t be terrific. Get just enough cash to pay for your taxi or transportation from the airport to your lodging, tip money, and get some coins in case you must pay to use the toilet which is not that unusual in Europe.
The Hungarian Parliament is a “must see” in Budapest. You’ll need Forints to pay to visit.
On a recent trip from Vienna to Budapest, our Daytrip driver handed us each four Forints when we crossed the Hungarian border explaining we would need it at the rest stop. We had been traveling in Europe for a month and had Euros and dollars with us, but no Hungarian currency. You may also find some restaurants and museums in Europe that only accept cash, but you can stop at an ATM.
ATMs
Speaking of ATMs, some will try to charge ludicrously high fees. When the prompt comes up asking you to accept the conversion rate, decline. You can complete your transaction paying the bank rate, which is the best choice. When using ATMs be aware of your surroundings, cover the keypad when you insert your PIN, and pocket your cash immediately, just like at home. Try to visit ATMs during busy, daylight hours and watch for pickpockets.
There will be times, particularly at hotels, when you’ll be asked if you want to pay in Euro, for example, or dollars. Always choose the local currency. It will save you money in the form of conversion/transaction fees.
Buy Travel Insurance
Give yourself peace of mind and get travel insurance.
No one likes to think that anything unpleasant will happen while they’re off enjoying the world, but things can and do happen; from a cracked windshield in your rental car to a cracked rib and worse. Flights can be delayed for hours or cancelled outright leaving you stranded or missing your cruise. A family emergency may find you scrambling to return home in a hurry. Be prepared for these contingencies with travel insurance.
Accidents can happen while you’re far from home. Protect yourself!
We use Allianz and buy an annual policy with extensive coverage as well as providing emergency medical evacuation. Read the terms of the policies you’re considering before signing the contract and find out exactly what your credit cards will cover so you don’t duplicate coverage.
No Bad Weather
There’s an old saying, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe choices.” You already know summer pretty much everywhere is going to be steamy and there may be some rainy days, too. Bring an umbrella and a light jacket. You can also use the umbrella as a sun parasol, which I often do when hiking through sunbaked ruins in Italy and Greece.
Always bring a swimsuit and sturdy, comfortable shoes for the long days of touring, and think light layers when you choose your wardrobe.
As the saying goes, “There is no bad weather, just poor wardrobe decisions.” Be prepared!
Packing Tips
Bring clothes you’re comfortable in and that can accommodate an extra pound or two. Don’t even think about bringing flashy jewelry, five pairs of shoes, or a different outfit for every day. Read my packing hacks here.
Dress conservatively if you are visiting a house of worship or risk being turned away.
If you’ll be visiting cathedrals and other places of worship, be sure to have a light wrap to cover yourself. Bare arms and legs can get you barred from entering. Ladies, please don’t turn up in a skinny mini or shorts and a bra top or guys in a muscle tank and old shorts. It’s considered disrespectful in many cultures and you don’t want to miss out.
An umbrella is also handy for sunny places, like the ancient ruins at Mycenae.
Think about the activities you have planned and bring what you’ll need to be comfortable doing them. Pack only for a week, no matter how long you’re traveling. You can get the laundry done! Leave all those cosmetic products you think you need at home and pick up your basics overseas. There are Sephoras in most cities and well-stocked pharmacies everywhere for everything from shampoo to shaving cream. Remember the liquids rule and only bring containers 3.4 ounces or less of your essentials in a quart- sized clear plastic bag. Questions about what’s allowed? Check with TSA.
Don’t Check Luggage
Airlines are notorious for losing bags especially during the busy summer and holiday travel seasons. If you don’t check a bag, they can’t lose it. Plus, you’ll save valuable time not waiting around the baggage carousel, and money by not paying those hefty, checked baggage fees.
Unless you’re traveling with very small children who need lots of extras, you CAN go carry on and when you’re dragging your bag through train stations, over cobbled streets, and up and down stairs in charming little European hotels, you’ll thank me!
Save time and money– go carry-on!You don’t want to drag big bags around.
The Dreaded Gate Check
Sometimes you will be faced with a gate agent who insists on taking your bag. Maybe the flight is full, and the luggage racks have no space, or they don’t think your bag is small enough to carry on. European rules are different and you’ll have to hand it over.
Be prepared for this contingency by always keeping cash, credit cards, travel documents (including any vouchers and tickets), medications, keys, electronics, cameras, jewelry (if you must bring it), eyeglasses, and anything valuable and/or irreplaceable in a tote bag or backpack. These are considered “personal items” and must fit under the seat in front of you. Add a change of clothing with fresh socks and underwear and basic toiletries and you’re good to go.
Some airlines may make you pay to carry even small bags onboard.
Check Your Airline
Always check your airline’s requirements. Heavily discounted airlines may not let you bring anything other than a small purse aboard without paying for it. If this is the case, pay for the privilege of carrying- on, as far in advance as possible. Prices go up as departure time nears.
Cancel Deliveries
You won’t want to worry about deliveries at home..…while you’re enjoying the world!
If you regularly get a newspaper delivered to your home, get a vacation hold. The Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are among the dailies who allow you to donate your papers to local schools. Or have your account credited for days you are away, just don’t let them pile up on the driveway. Be sure to put a hold on your mail delivery, too. The USPS will bring you a big bin with all your held mail when you return.
Try not to order packages that will be delivered in your absence but if you do, let your neighbor know, so nothing is sitting by your front door possibly alerting criminals to your absence. In fact, it’s a great idea to let your neighbors know that you are traveling anyway. They can keep an eye out for any suspicious activity.
Some Final Advice
You’re all set. Your carry-on and tote are packed, documents, electronics and chargers/converters easy to access, and you’re leaving for the airport with plenty of time to get through security.
Eat the gelato, linger in that cafe, take a nap– it’s summer vacation. Enjoy!
Here’s some final advice before you go: To really enjoy your travel adventures abroad, bring your patience, be flexible, and keep your sense of humor sharp. Leave unrealistic expectations behind and be open to new cultural experiences, different cuisines, and meeting new people. Don’t try to see and do everything on one trip. Take a nap if you’re tired, after all it is your vacation. Now go see the world and have some fun!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Lawsand may not be reproduced without express permission.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on gelato. Thank you for your support!
Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds.
The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:
Rolling On the River
A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.
Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.
Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.
I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.
Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.Relax and enjoy the spectacular scenery while you learn about this fascinating area.
These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history.
We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!
Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.
Sled Dogs
As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat.
Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.These sled dogs and their handlers demonstrate what it takes to be part of a winning team.
He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.
A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.
Athabaskan Culture
We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead.
Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.
Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.
Athabaskan Fashion
We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.
Traditional Athabascan winter wear.Fur is key in Alaska’s subzero temps.
Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.
The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.
Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.
We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.
Cultural Exchange
Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.
Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center
Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.
Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.We had the chance to meet the artisans who created the handicrafts for sale.
Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!
We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.
The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.
Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.
Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.
Cool Cars and Clothes
Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.
If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.
The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.
Alaskan Ingenuity
The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage.
Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.
The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.
Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.
Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.
Go North
The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.
The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.
Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.
Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.
Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.
Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.
While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.
A Day in Denali
Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.
One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park.
Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park,but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.
Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.
Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.
Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!
Safety First
Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.
A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.Don’t hike alone– it is safer and more fun with friends anyway!
We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!
Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.
We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos.
Staying in Shape
We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.
The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad from Denali to Fairbanks is unparalleled!
Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad
After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad.Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.
If You Go
Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball!
When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!
The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!
Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.
Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.
Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.
I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!
The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!
Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!
Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.
Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria.Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.
We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.
Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence?
Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.
The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow, shown below.Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the Treasures exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.
The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.
This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.
Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.
Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums.
The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.
Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.
Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.
The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course!
In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!
Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.
Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.
Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.
Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.
In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!
Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?
This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.
Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.
Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranianprovince of Hormozgan.
Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.
Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.
Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.
The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the Treasures exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.
Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.
Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales and finally, it was the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!
What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?
Nakalele
The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.
The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!
Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.
Park on the shoulder.There’s no official parking area here.
There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.
If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.
The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery.
We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!
Beware the Blowhole
Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.
These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.
You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.
Stay safe and stay clear of the blowhole even when it isn’t active.
Safety First!
This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.
Heed the sign!
The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.
You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.
We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.
Beachtime
We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.
Enjoy the beautiful coastline as you make your way down Maui’s winding roads.
At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.
Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.
D.T. Fleming Beach
D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!
Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.
The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.
Bring your own chairs and picnic lunch. Services can be limited on many beaches.
We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.
The surf was rough and the lifeguards were busy!
After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.
This monument marksan ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.
Take a Hike
The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.
The going got rough, and slippery, the further out on the point we ventured.
The scenery was breathtaking from Makaluapuna Point.
Dragon’s Teeth
The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!
Take time to walk the labyrinth and reflect.
There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.
Enjoy nature’s sculpture!
The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?
Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!
Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.
This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.
Note: Even though Covid and the many restrictions (travel and otherwise) that came with it is behind us, I’m leaving this post up to memorialize the experience!
It seems like almost everyone I know is either on their way, just returned, or is planning a trip to Hawaii. With most international destinations still off limits for Americans, Hawaii is the perfect escape—mainlanders can enjoy a far flung holiday without leaving the USA. A trip to paradise during the pandemic is not going to happen without planning though. Gone are the days of buying a ticket and showing up at the airport. The State of Hawaii has testing requirements and rules in place to safeguard the health of its citizens and those wishing to enjoy a tropical get-away. Here’s what you need to know before you go.
First step—visit Safe Travels: State of Hawaii https://travel.hawaii.gov Here’s where you’ll find all current travel rules and requirements. They change frequently! You can also find helpful information at http://hawaiicovid19.com. You will need a Covid-19 test within 72-hours of travel and it must be administered by an approved testing organization. These are listed on the website. We used Carbon Health at San Diego’s airport. It was seamless and our results were back in plenty of time to upload and add to our documentation on the SafeTravelHawaii site. It was not inexpensive—we paid $170 each but knowing we’d have our results back on time reduced our stress level considerably.
There is also a mandatory online questionnaire to complete. Once you’ve submitted all the information required, the State of Hawaii will send you a QR code. You will need this to check in for your flight and at your hotel. Some car rental companies may also want to see and scan your code. Consider printing a copy or two and keeping it with you along with a printed copy of your negative Covid-19 test results. WiFi can be spotty and you may need to show the QR code even when you can’t access it on your mobile device.
Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own travel regulations. In Maui, you need to download the contact tracing app, for example.
if you’re traveling to Maui, as we were, you’ll need to download the contact tracing app for the island. Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own, very specific rules and travel between islands also requires compliance with local regulations. You must meet all of these requirements even if you are fully vaccinated.
Alaska Airline’s pre-screening meant we got off the plane and started our vacation with no further Covid-19 checks necessary.
Your airline may also be of assistance in your travel preparations. We were able to complete a pre-clearance check before boarding our Alaska Airlines http://www.alaskaair.com flight. The wristbands we were given meant once we landed, we were free to leave the airport with no further interactions or delays. Hawaii means business– there were officials positioned throughout the airport, checking for wristbands. Those without them were whisked away.
Hawaii is a very popular destination right now, especially since most international travel is still off limits to Americans.
There is a mandatory quarantine in effect for anyone arriving without the required testing and documentation. I read recently of a couple who tried to bribe a TSA official upon landing without having been tested. They wanted to avoid quarantine and instead were arrested.
We spent lots of time admiring rainbows, whale watching and staring at the sea in Maui.
Be sure to book your rental car when you buy your air tickets. I’ve heard horror stories lately about the lack of rental car availability and the outrageous prices being charged. Do not expect to find a rental car without a reservation on any of the islands.
Because Hawaii is such a popular destination right now, make restaurant reservations before you leave home. We were lucky to get reservations for the last two nights of our 10-day holiday.
Many popular restaurants were fully booked for the first week of our vacation. We would have booked our favorites before we left home, had we known!
Due to Covid restrictions, restaurants are operating at limited capacity and reservations are a must at most places. Some of the more casual eateries will accept walk-ins and we had a luck with that at Maui Brewing Company www.mauibrewing.com on our first night. If you’re craving beer and a burger (or that tasty kalua pork), this is a great option and it’s family-friendly, too. I’m not much of a beer drinker but our friendly server gave me a few tastes to find one I liked– the Wiamea Red was my pick.
The Wiamea Red and Hazy Big Swell IPA were perfect with our burger and tacos after a long travel day.Maui Brewing makes a wide range of local beers from Bikini Blonde lager to the very robust Imperial Coconut Porter. They offer flights so you can try a few!
They offer their beer to go with or without take-away food orders and it’s priced better at the brewery than the Safeway. They have two locations on Maui and two on Oahu. We ate at the Lahaina/Kahana outpost.
If you are up for a night out and enjoy Asian cuisine, Star Noodle in Lahaina www.starnoodle.com gets two thumbs up from us. We had such a delicious lunch that we returned for dinner later in our stay.
Great food and a fabulous location make Star Noodle one of our top picks!
The seating is almost all outdoors and right on the ocean–just what you want on a Hawaiian holiday. All the noodles are made in-house and both the Hot n Sour noodles and Singapore noodles were delicious.
All the noodles at Star Noodle are made in-house and are delicious!
The Nuoc Cham wings were so tasty we ate them both times! The Adobo Ribs were excellent as were the Colossal Tempura Shrimp but beware—these dishes sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
These Nuoc Cham wings were so good we ordered them twice.We enjoyed a lunch and a dinner at Star Noodle. Reservations for both are required!
Star Noodle is located right next door to the Old Lahaina Luau www.oldlahainaluau.com and during our dinner we could hear the drumming and the singing from next door. I even caught a glimpse of a few performers headed to the stage.
The Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best and most popular on the island. They sell out months in advance during the high season.
This brought back happy memories of traveling to Maui with our kids when they were younger and a trip to the luau was a Hawaiian highlight. The concierge at the Westin told me that the Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best on the island but get your tickets way in advance—it sells out quickly!
Dukes is a popular spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
On our last night in Maui, we opted for the extremely popular Duke’s Beach House www.dukesmaui.com since it was just a short walk up the beach from the Nanea. We had booked early in the trip and honestly, my expectations were not high but the food and the service far surpassed what I imagined a place packed with tourists would offer. I had delicious, seared ahi and my husband opted for a huge and tasty burger.
The ahi was perfectly fresh and seared just right.They make a big, tasty burger at Duke’s Maui.
They offered us a complimentary Hulu pie—their signature dessert, but we were too full to accept. They also had live music—a treat after being locked down for so long– and they’re right across from the beach so tables close to the esplanade have lovely views. Duke’s serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Make reservations!
Grilling at the oceanfront condo we rented took the sting out of cooking on vacation.
After cooking at home for months and months, we found ourselves still cooking on vacation most nights, but the change of scenery made it much more palatable! We stayed in a condo in Kahana our first five nights https://www.vacasa.com/unit/15880 and had a well-equipped kitchen and sparkling clean BBQ grills in the pool area which we used nightly. It was pretty special to grill just feet from the ocean and enjoy our meals on the balcony while whale watching! That’s something we can’t do at home.
We had rainbows at breakfast, whale watching at lunch, and spectacular sunsets before dinner every night from the balcony at our Hololani rental.
Our last five nights were at the Westin Nanea, an upscale timeshare on the north end of Ka’anapali. We had a very large two-bedroom unit with an eat-in kitchen and all the amenities we needed. http://marriott.com The pools were busy but the adjacent lawn area and beach were peaceful.
Both the Westin Nanea and its sister property Ocean Resort Villas further down the beach were buzzing with activity during our stay. We had a fully-equipped kitchen, a dining area plus a balcony with table and chairs at our two-bedroom, two bath villa. There was plenty of room to spread out in our unit at the family-friendly Westin Nanea.
Dining options on the property were very limited due to Covid but BBQ grills were placed throughout the expansive property so we’d grab a glass of wine and our fish and head down the elevators to cook most nights. We met some lovely people while preparing our meals!
Guests will find BBQ grills throughout the grounds at the Nanea.
If you are planning a “self-catering” holiday in Maui where you have a kitchen and/or grill available, be sure to stock up at the Costco near the airport. We got most of the basics, wine, and fantastic fresh fish there. I also picked up a lightweight rain jacket which came in very handy on this trip. You’ll also find chocolate covered macadamia nuts, Hawaiian coffee, and other edible souvenirs at a fraction of the price of the touristy shops around the island. Watch out for the chickens roaming the parking lot!
These chickens were in Lahaina but their cousins were everywhere– including the Costco parking lot.
If you don’t have a Costco membership or just want a few things, the Lahaina Safeway will have what you need. We made a trip or two there, as well.
Pick up pies both sweet and savory—it is vacation after all–at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu https://www.leodas.com. There’s always a line but it goes quickly. The Olowalu Lime and Chocolate Macadamia were my favorites!
Leoda’s is a popular stop for sweet and savory pies, sandwiches and more. Avoid disappointment and go early or order online! Pies sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
Right next door is the Olowalu Juice Stand and Farmer’s Market for fresh fruits and vegetables, ice cold coconuts, sweets and more. We watched a Farmer’s Market clerk with a machete make quick work of a coconut, preparing it for a customer in minutes– paper umbrella and all. There’s also a small general store and the Butterfly Farm here.
Grab one of Olowalu Juice Stand’s tropical smoothies and head next door to the Farmer’s Market where fresh coconuts and pineapples are big sellers.We didn’t go in, but the Butterfly Farm is close to Leoda’s and the Juice Stand in Olowalu.
After a long year of not traveling, our trip to Maui was just what we needed. It was exciting to be on an airplane again and to spend some time in such a beautiful, tropical paradise—without ever leaving our own country!
What a wonderful trip after a long year without travel!
Next up, I’ll share about some of the places we explored in Maui when we weren’t gazing out to sea, watching for whales, and enjoying rainbows!
Note- This article was written in April 2021. Many Covid-related restrictions have changed since that time.
Take a deep breath. On Oregon’s wild Central Coast the air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.
There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do in Coastal Oregon? Let’s start with the whales.
Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.
Whale Watching
The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales, 20,000 of them according to some sources, pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.
Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.
It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spy hop so close to shore. We learned that spy hopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby. Maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy watching them.
Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.
Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.
Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.
Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.
Stop by the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center.
World’s Smallest Harbor
Make the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center your first stop. When we visited we saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.
The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep.
Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.
Volunteers can usually be found at coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks.org.
Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse
There’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.
The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.
Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.
The rocky shoals below the Yaquina Head lighthouse became the final resting place for many ships and sailors.
Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.
The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.
Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.
To make the most of your visit make the Interpretive Center your first stop. Admission to the center is free but there is a fee to enter the park.
Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.
Lighthouse Life
After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit.
Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.
Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps.
A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.
Marine Life
There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!
Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.
Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.
Take a hike and enjoy the spectacular views.
Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.
Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.
Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.
Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center
Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.
Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.
Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.
Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.
Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development.
Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.
Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave.
The Burrows House
Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19th and early 20th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.
Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s.
This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.
Hatfield Marine Science Center
Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.
Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense of wonder in visitors of all ages.
Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.
The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.
Newport’s busy harbor.
Go Explore
Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.
Devil’s Punchbowl is at its best at high tide when the sea really churns.
Devil’s Punchbowl
Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.
Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore!
Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide.
Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.
Finders Keepers
Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Free “finders keepers” glass floats are a tradition on Lincoln City’s beaches. These are for sale at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Nye Beach
Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.
It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.
If You Go
Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.
You’ll share the road with logging trucks on the scenic coastal road.
There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.
We’ve stayed at this Wyndham timeshare in Gleneden Beach several times.
Where to Eat
As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. You can’t go wrong with these:
Depoe Bay
Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.
You can’t beat the sunset view at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay.
The halibut is always a great choice.
Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.
Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.
Gleneden Beach
Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.
We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them.
Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!
Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.
Newport
Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.
Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite.
The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious.
The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.
We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.
Gleneden Breakfast
Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.
Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning.
Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.
The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.
Lincoln City
Kyllos-Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.
We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.
Kyllos fish tacos are good, too!
If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.
This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways… Find more Oregon fun here.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker.
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