If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.
Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.
Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.
I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!
The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!
Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!
Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.
Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria.Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.
We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.
Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence?
Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.
The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow, shown below.Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the Treasures exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.
The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.
This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.
Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.
Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums.
The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.
Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.
Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.
The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course!
In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!
Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.
Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.
Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.
Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.
In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!
Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?
This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.
Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.
Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranianprovince of Hormozgan.
Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.
Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.
Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.
The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the Treasures exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.
Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.
Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.
We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day, early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.
With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.
The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.
While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.
Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.
The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.
Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.
Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.
Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.
Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.
There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.
Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.
Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.
The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.
Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed, though she was still a striking figure.
An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.
This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.
Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings which have long been lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created. The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.
The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.
The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938! He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.
A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.
The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno, where a warning above the Gates of Hell reads, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built- in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.
Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!
Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. There’s not much to see other than the family crest and motto. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger—purposefully, scholars think. Some believe that the house represents the falling fortunes of the Orsini family, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!
Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.
Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules—a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.
Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.
Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine– a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.
The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.
There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that will surprise and delight around every turn.
Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.
Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.
Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken- hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.
Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.
A Pegasus in the garden represents Orsini’s in-laws– the Farnese family. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.
Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.
Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited– including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este–are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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Oregon’s Wine Country is only about an hour drive from downtown Portland, so some people consider it a day trip. That’s one idea, and we hope they use a designated driver, but we like to settle in for a few days and get to know a place. We talked about visiting the Willamette Valley’s wineries in a recent post. Here’s some practical advice on where to eat, sleep and enjoy the area.
Location, Location…
We’ve chosen McMinnville as our wine country base twice. It’s right in the heart of the Willamette Valley AVA with its nearly 600 wineries, there are a plenty of lodging options, and most important, there are a lot of places to eat (and drink), all within walking distance.
Whether you’re interested in a stroll around town to wineries with tasting rooms right in the downtown or you’re more into pints than Pinot Noir, there’s a lot to choose from in McMinnville. Wineries, breweries, coffee shops, a tea house, restaurants, bistros, bars, bakeries, pizzerias and an ice cream parlor line Third Street, the main thoroughfare in this historic town. There are boutiques, galleries, and shops for souvenirs and necessities. From May to October—there’s a wonderful Thursday Farmer’s Market with everything from handmade soaps to home baked pies.
Pie really does fix everything!
McMinnville’s Thursday Farmers Market has something for everyone.
McMinnville also hosts annual events like the International Pinot Noir Celebration, Walnut City Music Festival, Turkey Rama, an old-fashioned Starlight Parade to kick off the holiday season, and the UFO Festival. The latter, billed as “the most popular UFO Festival in the world” is on my list to visit someday. See photos of past events here. For a relatively small town, there’s a lot going on here.
Go ahead. Eat the cupcake.
Work off those calories with a bike ride or a hike.
There’s plenty of hiking, biking, and picnicking to be done, even if there aren’t any events happening.
Hungry?
Whatever your palate or pocketbook, there’s something here to satisfy. What follows is our personal recommendations– not an exhaustive list of McMinnville’s dining spots.
Thistle
Thistle’s menu reflects the seasons and highlights local growers.
Our hands down favorite for dinner is Thistle, an intimate restaurant just off Third Street. Thistle serves memorable meals with ingredients sourced uber locally. The menu changes frequently to reflect what’s available seasonally and it’s written on a chalk board; purveyors are listed at the bottom, so you know who grew your food.
We loved everything we tried including this delectable rabbit dish.
Oregon wines dominate the list.
You’ll find starters like Netarts Bay oysters and mains like rockfish with fennel, oxalis, yogurt and fava pods or rabbit with collard greens, turnip and spring onion. The wine list favors Oregon producers and the waitstaff are friendly and helpful. Reservations are necessary. Thistle is a very small space and hugely popular with locals and visitors. Fun fact—the restaurant was named for the thistle wallpaper the owner spotted when designing the space.
Red Hills Kitchen
The restaurant is in the Atticus Hotel (more about that later), and like most in McMinnville, focuses on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. They tweak classic dishes like Shepard’s Pie using tenderloin of beef. The meatloaf was delicious and nothing like your mother made, we promise.
Red Hills Kitchen’s tasty version of Shepard’s Pie.
Try anything cooked in the Josper oven, like this cod.
The Josper oven uses charcoal and imparts a lovely smokey element to dishes.
Red Hills Kitchen has a massive Josper oven that uses the same Thaan charcoal Portland’s Pok Pok uses. It imparts a subtle smoky flavor to the dishes, like the roasted beets, cod, and pork shoulder on the menu when we dined. Fancy donuts are available at dinner and the bucket of mini donuts can be had at breakfast, lunch and to go. Get some!
Check out Red Hills Kitchen’s Happy Hour.
They have a solid wine list with plenty of local wines to choose from and a fun cocktail list. Red Hills Kitchen also has a Happy Hour with drink and food specials. We had dinner twice in as many nights here in March.
Red Hills Market is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic provisions.
Red Hills Market in nearby Dundee, which is affiliated with the Red Hills Kitchen, is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic supplies. They also make wood-fired pizza, but it wasn’t available on our visits.
In addition to good food, you can pick up fun gifts or souvenirs.
They’ve got cheeses, baked goods, and fancy foods, plus tea towels, coffee mugs and other kitchen-related items that make great gifts or souvenirs. The Market is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and also serves wine and beer.
Nick’s Italian Cafe
Nick’s is on everyone’s McMinnville list because it’s good—-and Nick was a James Beard Award Winner. His daughter runs the restaurant now but it’s still one of the most popular places in town. This is where to go for house made pastas, wood fired pizza and classic Italian specialties. The place is always packed so if it’s Dungeness lasagna or a pizza bianca you’re craving, be sure to book a table.
Dungeness crab lasagna. Need we say more?
Everybody goes to Nick’s.
The wine list features Italian varietals from Tuscany, Piemonte and Southern Italy as well as local vintages from Oregon producers.
3rd Street Pizza Co.
Pop into 3rd Street Pizza for pie, calzone and wings.
If you want a pizza in a casual setting and are thinking of seeing a movie, too, you can get both at 3rd Street Pizza. Delicious, classic, hand- tossed pies are available in sizes ranging from 10” to family-friendly 18” pizzas. They also have sandwiches, salads, calzones and wings. We focused on the pizza.
Hand tossed, classic pizza– and a movie!
There is a movie theater in the rear of the restaurant, and you can enjoy your food while you watch the show. After 5 p.m., guests over 21 can order alcoholic drinks to bring into the theater. There is an admission fee for the movies. Note—please check the theater schedule online.
Bistro Maison
Fancy French cuisine? Traditional French bistro items like escargot, coq au vin, steak au poivre and cassoulet await guests at Bistro Maison. The dining room is as classic as the bistro menu and draws a crowd. There is also garden seating, but we took a table indoors. There were a lot of people celebrating occasions the night we dined, which created a festive atmosphere.
Crab cocktail made a great starter.
Classic bistro fare like this chicken with morels made our night.
Save room for dessert.
The wine list is international. Local producers and French bottlings get top billing, but Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina all make a showing. Service is attentive and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening. Bistro Maison serves lunch and dinner.
Pura Vida Cocina
Local friends suggested lunch at Pura Vidaand we’re glad they did. It wasn’t easy to choose from the seasonal Latin American specialties like arepas, empanadas and tacos so we tried a few things and shared them. The tortillas are handmade and when stuffed with the barbocoa beef—delicious! Wine, beer and cocktails are available and while those margaritas were tempting, we didn’t indulge.
What’s for lunch? Home-made tortillas filled with fresh, delicious ingredients.
The restaurant is very casual but there is interesting art on the walls. It’s a popular place so book a table for lunch or dinner.
Java Joints
Red Fox has coffee, pastries, sandwiches and more.
Two places we like for coffee are Flag and Wireand The Red Fox Bakery. The latter also serves sandwiches and light fare, but we were all about the coffee and pastry. We liked the coffee so much at Flag and Wire, we bought some to take out to the coast with us and more to bring home.
Ice Cream
We had unseasonably hot weather on our first trip to McMinnville and the truth is, even if we didn’t, we’d still want ice cream. The line was out the door at Serendipity Ice Cream, but it was worth the wait for the two dozen flavors of made-in-Oregon ice cream and house made waffle cones. They serve sundaes, specialty desserts and fresh baked cookies, too.
Ice cream worth the wait.
We also indulged at the Cream ice cream truck at the Thursday McMinnville Farmer’s Market. Once again there was a line, but the fun flavors and homemade ice cream was worth it!
And Now to Sleep
The elegant Atticus Hotel’s front desk.
McMinnville has elegant, eclectic, budget and bucolic lodging options. On the outskirts of town, you’ll find big budget chains like Red Lion Inn, Best Western and Comfort Inn. In the eclectic category there’s the very quirky The Vintages– a vintage trailer “resort” or the McMenamins Hotel Oregonwith shared bathrooms but a bustling rooftop bar. There are also bed and breakfast options and vacation homes for rent. We chose none of those.
Third Street Flat’s Pearl.
The Third Street Flats got our vote, twice. Owned by the same people behind the elegant Atticus Hotel, the Third Street Flats are eleven different apartments of varying sizes and décor in two downtown McMinnville buildings. The flats all have kitchens and sitting areas with bedrooms to accommodate groups from two to six.
The Pearl’s colorful sleeping area.
We stayed in the Pearl our first time, in the historic McMinnville Bank Building. There’s not a bank there anymore but there’s a hair salon, a bar called The Bitter Monk and La Rambla, a Spanish restaurant on the ground floor. There’s street parking available and the Thursday Farmer’s Market is right down the street. Unfortunately, we came home several evenings to find that the parking lot behind the building is a gathering spot for some folks who appeared to be down on their luck. Management is working on this issue. The apartment was very comfortable and nicely furnished and decorated. We got a peek at some of the larger units and they all look exactly as presented on the website.
We loved the crisp navy and white decor in the Indigo flat.
We had plenty of room to relax and a full kitchen in the Indigo flat.
The Oddfellows Lodge is right next door to the Atticus Hotel and that’s where we slept on our second trip to the Willamette Valley. We chose the Indigo flat for this visit. We loved the crisp blue and white décor, hardwood floors, fireplace and the full kitchen in this flat. We didn’t do much cooking, but it was nice to know we could. The location was perfect for us and we found on street parking easily. Best of all, Red Hills Kitchen was right next door in the hotel. We also found it handy to pop in and talk to the concierge at the Atticus—everyone behind the front desk was warm, welcoming and had plenty of great tips for enjoying Oregon’s wine country.
We learned a lot of fun facts about McMinnville aka Walnut City at the Atticus Hotel. This historic display is in the lobby area. The walnuts in the bowls are for munching.
A guest room at the Atticus.
The Bunkhouse is the perfect solution for groups of up to six traveling together.
Though we didn’t stay in the Atticus, they were kind enough to show us some rooms and share some historic background on the property and the town. Where ever you stay and whatever you choose to do during your visit to this delightful region, you’re sure to enjoy your time here. Please let me know about your discoveries!
Please check individual websites for updates and further information.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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I’m no wine expert but I enjoy drinking it and learning about it. In my thirst for knowledge (couldn’t resist) I’ve been lucky enough to visit wineries and talk to wine makers in many of the world’s most important wine growing regions from the slopes of Sicily’s Mt. Etna to the chalky soil to Champagne and here in California, of course. After visiting Portland regularly for years; we were way overdue for a trip to explore Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
It’s just about an hour drive from downtown to Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley.
It’s little more than an hour drive from downtown Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA and home to nearly 600 wineries. As much as I adore a good Pinot Noir, Oregon winemakers are producing other award-winning varietals including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and lately, Gamay, as well as those prize- winning Pinots.
There are nearly 600 wineries in the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA.
I was as impressed with the wines we tasted as I was with the casual, “walk-ins welcome” vibe at many of the wineries we visited on several recent trips to Oregon’s wine country. Tasting room staff were passionate about the wines they were pouring and eager to share their knowledge everywhere we went.
Knowledgeable staff made wine tasting fun and educational at Saffron Fields Vineyards, shown here, and at the other wineries we visited.
My last visit was just days before the Covid-19 shelter order closed restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and all those winery tasting rooms. Now that things are slowly reopening, I circled back with some of the wineries we visited to find out what people can expect post -pandemic.
Reservations, masks, social distancing, and contactless payment are some of the differences visitors to this gorgeous wine growing region will notice, but it can still be a wonderful experience.
Things will be different for the foreseeable future for wineries large and small, but all were in agreement with a number of “new normal” requirements: Drop- in visits are largely a thing of the past. Most wineries now require reservations be booked online for timed tastings that will last between 60 and 90 minutes. Masks are mandatory, unless you are seated, and staff will be masked throughout the tasting. Social distancing will be enforced. Most wineries have moved the tasting experience outdoors. Tastings will be staggered to allow thorough cleaning and sanitizing between groups. Menus will be laminated for easy disinfection or single use paper menus will be provided. Hand sanitizer will be readily available. Outside food is no longer allowed at most wineries. Most wineries are using contactless chip readers for purchases i.e. no cash. Everybody is working hard to keep the wine tasting experience safe and fun.
Here’s what I learned from individual wineries I contacted:
Argyle Winery
Let’s start with bubbles. Argyle is Oregon’s premier producer of sparkling wines and they make excellent still wines as well. The award-winning winery has a big, beautiful tasting facility with plenty of outdoor space. Argyle is one of the first wineries you’ll encounter heading west on the 99 from Portland. Plan to stop.
Argyle’s Tasting House is a large comfortable space but for now, wine tastings will be held outdoors. Reservations are required, as they are almost everywhere now.
The Tasting House has re-opened and will welcome groups of eight or fewer by reservation only. Hours are the same as pre-pandemic—Monday-Thursday 11 am-5pm; Friday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm, but less seating is available due to social distancing regulations.
To streamline the wine tasting experience, Argyle is offering two flights—a selection of the varietals they produce, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, and one that is all sparkling (my favorite). They also offer by-the-glass and half-glass pours. Try the brut rose! Tasting flights are $20-$30 per person.
A wine club member created this low- touch wine flight delivery system using barrel staves. Photo courtesy Argyle Winery.
“We have reduced the flight options in an effort to minimize glassware used, and we have a cool delivery system for the flights that involves a barrel stave that holds the glasses and lets us deliver flights to the table without having to touch them. One of our club members made them. Innovation is everywhere during times like these,” says Argyle’s Cathy Martin.
There’s plenty of room to relax outdoors and enjoy Argyle’s award-winning wines.
“We have had lots of reservations, and everyone seems to be very understanding of the situation. We really wanted to get the process down to make sure visitors felt comfortable and welcome,” adds Cathy.
Argyle also offers curbside pick-up for online wine orders.
Saffron Fields Vineyards
We weren’t familiar with Saffron Fields Vineyards, but it was highly recommended by the concierge at the Atticus Hotel in McMinnville, so we took a drive to Yamhill. We spent a leisurely afternoon at Saffron Fields, enjoying their stunning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in one of the loveliest tasting rooms we’d visited. The tasting room is surrounded by Japanese gardens, designed by Hoichi Kurisu, the former director of the acclaimed Japanese Gardens in Portland. Like everywhere else in the valley, the pandemic has caused operational changes at this former dairy farm.
Saffron Field’s tasting room is surrounded by serene Japanese gardens.
Saffron Fields is by appointment only now, wine club members included. Andrea Feero says, “We are pleased to have reopened to the public and are happy to see guests fill our patio once again. Our tasting room hosts are still providing the same warm welcome and hospitality as before.”
“If guests arrive early, they are asked to wait in their vehicle until they are notified that their table is ready. Most tastings will occur outside, but we do have space inside the tasting room if needed or requested. All tastings are seated flights. Additionally, we offer bottle purchases for onsite consumption on the lawn, this is what we are calling our Alfresco Experience on the Lawn. This experience is ideal for 5-10 people,” says Andrea.
Tastings will take place outside at Saffron Fields and reservations are required.
Children and dogs were welcome at Saffron Fields pre-Covid-19, but Andrea adds, “We love both, but I am not sure how we will move forward with this and are taking it as a case by case approach. Regrettably, both open the door to encroachment of the six-foot rule that we are trying to follow.”
A standard tasting is $25, and guests should allow 60-90 minutes. For reservations please contact [email protected] or call 503.662.5323.
Hazelfern Cellars
We have friends who are friends with the owners at Hazelfern Cellars, so naturally we planned a visit. We already knew how terrific their Pinot Noir was and were looking forward to trying the current release as well as their Chardonnay. With our reservation confirmed, off to Newberg we went!
We enjoyed our private wine tasting in Hazelfern’s beautiful barn.
Hazelfern has one of the nicest barns I’ve ever seen and that’s where proprietor Laura Laing met us for our private tasting experience. They also have an outdoor tasting area, which uses local hazelnut shells as a ground cover– sustainable, practical and attractive! As expected, we thoroughly enjoyed the wines Laura poured. I checked back with her to see what changes the pandemic has created.
“We’ve always been by reservation, so we have been able to adapt pretty seamlessly. We have been utilizing a reservation system for a number of years now and will continue to do so. This helps us plan and limit the number of people in each group, currently limited to 10 or fewer. We have designated reservation times of 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm and allow for multiple reservations at a time because luckily, our space is so large. We are not currently accepting walk-ins. Tastings are $25 per person and guests can expect about five wines during the tasting,” Laura says.
“Sadly, we are not facilitating tours or activities that have folks moving about the winery. Hopefully that will be back soon though! We’ve been utilizing both indoor and outdoor seating when weather permits. The tasting itself is about 60 minutes and we ask guests to depart by 90 minutes to allow for deep cleaning between groups.”
Hazelfern has plenty of space for outdoor tastings. The ground cover is local hazelnut shells–sustainable and attractive.
“Overall everyone has been so amazing, respectful, kind and so understanding of the new guidelines as we work to keep everyone safe and stocked up on wine, “ Laura adds.
Oregon is rightly famous for their Pinot Noirs but when you’re ready for a break, head to Remy Winery. Known for their Italian varietals, Remy’s tasting room is in a friendly yellow farmhouse in the Dundee Hills.
Pre-pandemic, we dropped in and had a terrific tasting experience with Hannah, their Hospitality Director. Like many wineries in the valley, Remy is now open for by appointment only, Friday through Monday for groups of six or fewer.
Remy is known for Italian varietals.
“We were always more limited by number due to our small tasting room and bathroom facility. Tasting appointments are staggered so that no more than one party will arrive at one time, with an hour and a half allotted to each tasting. No more than 22 people would be in the process of tasting at one time,” says Remy’s Erin Butler.
Social distance- appropriate barrels are set up around the property to serve as tables for outside wine tasting. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.
All tastings will be conducted outside. Wine barrels are set up throughout the yard, more than 20 feet apart. There are also tasting spots on the covered front porch and at the picnic table. The tasting fee is $20 per person. Barbera, Dolcetto, Lagrein, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris may be among the wines you’ll be poured.
“We have these cute tasting trays that Hannah’s husband built for us. Four carafes fit in line and are filled according to the number of tasters in the party. Guests pour the wine (1 oz per person) into their own glasses, limiting the number of contacts. The flights (four wines) change each week, with a selection of white, rosé and reds,” Erin adds.
Hospitality Director Hannah Graham (left), and owner Remy Drabkin, show off their new wine flight delivery system, built by Hannah’s husband. Guest will pour from carafes themselves, limiting contact with staff. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.
Remy usually hosts events during the summer months. This year will be different, but the winery is not giving up.
“We are getting creative and really sorting through those things now. The property is large, so we are still moving ahead with two of our al fresco dining experiences. The first is our partnership with Pittsburgh’s Black Radish Kitchen. We had about 10 guests coming from Pittsburgh, and they will now be having their own experience in Pittsburgh with BRK. Locals will still come to the property, and we will be mirroring BRK menu with chefs here (most likely Remy; she’s a great cook!). Rather than one big table, we will be breaking them up into smaller tables,” Erin says.
Remy often hosts outdoor special events during summer months and will continue to do so this year, respecting new public health regulations.
Plans are also underway for the Bounty of Yamhill County dinner, and the Opera on the Lawn. “We’re keeping it fun, creative and safe. One of Remy’s greatest gifts has always been her creativity and can-do attitude,” says Erin.
Remy no longer offers food for purchase or allows outside food to be consumed on site, but they do have “porch pick -up” every day for wines ordered online.
For reservation requests visit [email protected] or 503.412.8387. A $30 deposit will be taken and applied to tasting fees and/or wine purchases, ensuring a no-touch check-out process.
Day Wines at Day Camp
Just before the shutdown, we stopped by Day Camp’s spacious tasting facility and enjoyed Day Wines’ petillant naturalle (sparkling) and Peridot- a 90% syrah and 10% viognier blend, along with her perfect- for- everyday Vin de Days, both blanc and rouge.
Brianne Day’s wines are made from grapes sourced from grower partners with biodynamic and/or organic practices.
Day Camp is now open for tastings Wednesday through Sunday from 11 am-5 pm but reservations are necessary for parties of six people or more. The winery plans to use Open Table for bookings soon. Walk-ins are still welcome.
Day Wines will soon use Open Table for tasting bookings.
“It has definitely been an unusual time for us where we have had to make quite a few adjustments to how we typically run things here at Day Wines. But we are making it work. We’re very fortunate that we have a large patio area, with a lot of covered spots. We have heaters for when the Oregon rain hits, and even an outdoor fireplace for just chilly days. We feel very lucky for that, since we are not doing any tastings in our actual tasting room. Everything is outside now,” says Leyla.
Durant at Red Hill Farms was recommended by our host at Day Wines and was another we dropped by to visit. The estate wines here include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. We particularly enjoyed the Pinot Noirs we tried and the Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris were perfect for the unseasonably hot weather we were having. We were also impressed with the sensational views and expansive grounds, which include beautiful lavender fields, a plant nursery and Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill.
We dropped in to Durant for a wine tasting prior to the pandemic.
Durant is the only winery I contacted that hasn’t reopened to the public for tastings yet, but they are welcoming back their wine and olive oil club members now.
Erin Rapp explains, “Wine and olive oil club members will need reservations and are limited to groups of six people. There is no tasting fee for members, but the time limit is 90 minutes per group. Tastings are currently available Friday through Monday, outside only, and there is food for purchase that can be consumed on property. Wine is also available for purchase by the bottle for on-site consumption.”
Durant has been operating Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill since 2008. Tours are complimentary but reservations are required.
Durant’s olive oil mill is open for complimentary tours by reservation only. Guests will soon have the opportunity to enjoy touchless olive oil tastings in the shop, Erin says.
Wine tasting is not yet available to the public, but walking trails, the plant nursery, and the shop are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm.
The plant nursery, shop, grounds, and the walking trail are all open to the public during business hours. The winery offers pick-up at the farm for online purchases, daily from 11 am to 4 pm and they’ll deliver orders of $100 or more to Salem, Portland and Vancouver (WA).
For updated information visit shop.redridgefarms.com or call 503.864.2000 x 2 for curbside service.
Terra Vina
Terra Vina is one of a number of smaller wineries with tasting rooms in historic downtown McMinnville. Guests can taste varietals like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Merlot, and Petite Verdot. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling may also be on Terra Vina’s rotation.
Terra Vina’s seating can accommodate groups of up to six. Reservations are required for one-hour seated tastings but walk- Ins are welcome if a table is available.
Terra Vina has taken a number of measures to ensure visitors enjoy their wine tasting safely. “Our tasting room has been reconfigured to allow guests to maintain a safe social distance from other parties. To minimize contact between our team and guests, we will be serving multiple wines in the flight at the same time. We will be using limited contact protocols for all transactions and will only be accepting credit card payment (no cash),” says Carole Dinger.
Terra Vina’s wines are available for sale at their McMinnville tasting room.
Currently, the McMinnville tasting room welcomes guests with reservations Fridays and Saturdays from 12-6pm and Sundays from 12-4pm. Tastings are $15 per person. Their Wilsonville vineyard tasting room will be open the second and fourth Saturday of the month from 12-6 pm. Vineyard tours will not be available until a later date. Lawn seating will be available for bottle/glass consumption.
Summing It All Up
Things are changing day by day. Check in with the wineries you plan to visit. Be patient– everyone is doing their best to deliver a safe and fun experience!
Here’s the pandemic playbook–Wear your mask, wash your hands, respect social distancing, and be sure to check with individual wineries for reservations and updates before heading out for a tasting. Please be patient. In these fast-changing times, everyone’s doing the best they can. Cheers!
PS If you’d like some practical information on where to stay, eat and play in Oregon’s Wine Country click here.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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The first thing I do when I arrive at Gleneden Beach, a hamlet on Oregon’s Central Coast, is take a deep breath. The clean, crisp air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.
There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales!
Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.
Whale Watching Season
The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales–20,000 of them according to some sources– pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.
Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.
It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spyhop so close to shore. We learned that spyhopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby—maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy seeing them.
Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.
Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.
Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.
Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.
The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center is closed now but watch for the reopening.
The Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center was closed for construction in March while we were there, but we visited last year and saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.
The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep. Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.
Volunteers can usually be found at 24 coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Docents will not be at their stations and viewing equipment will be unavailable this year due to the public health crisis. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks.org.
Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse
I think there’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.
The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.
Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.
The rocky shoals below the Yaquina Head lighthouse became the final resting place for many ships and sailors.
Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.
The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.
Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.
Come to the Interpretive Center for information that will help you make the most of your visit. Admission to the center is free. There is a fee to enter the park.Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.
After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit. Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.
Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps. A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.
There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!
Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.
Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.
Take a hike and enjoy the spectacular views.
Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.
Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.
Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.
Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center and Burrows House
Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.
Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.
Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.
Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.
Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development. Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.
Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave!
Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19th and early 20th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.
Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s. This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.
Hatfield Marine Science Center
Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.
Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense of wonder in visitors of all ages.Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.
The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.
Go Exploring
Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.
Devil’s Punchbowl is at its best at high tide when the sea really churns.
Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.
Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore! Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide. Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.
Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Free “finders keepers” glass floats are a 20-year tradition on Lincoln City’s beaches. These are for sale at Lincoln City Glass Center.
Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.
It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.
Practicalities
Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.
You’ll share the road with logging trucks on the scenic coastal road.
There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.
We’ve stayed at this Wyndham timeshare in Gleneden Beach several times.
As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. Our favorite restaurants are:
Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.
You can’t beat the sunset view at Tidal Raves in Depoe Bay. The halibut is always a great choice. Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.
Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.
Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.
We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them. Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!
Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.
Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.
Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite. The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious. The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.
We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.
Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.
Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning. Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.
The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.
Kyllos-Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.
We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.Kyllos fish tacos are good, too!
If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.
This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways…
Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.
Welcome to Porto!
Port!
Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine. All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.
The world- famous port houses Porto is named for are across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia.
Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!
Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards. No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.
The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.
We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.
Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden. There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S. for ports of this quality.
Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting. This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.
Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.
Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.
A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro. It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below.
Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.
If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.
Museu Serralves– Contemporary Collections
A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.
As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan. Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber.
There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum. The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.
There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.
Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.
Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum
The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.
“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture. A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.
The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.
The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.
The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.
Portuguese Centre of Photography
Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.
Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.
Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.
The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.
The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.
Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.
Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos
While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos. A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.
Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.
Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.
Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit
A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.
The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.
Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower.
Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.
The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.
Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.
Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself. A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it.
Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.
Shop
If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha.
Busy Rua Catarina is Porto’s main shopping thoroughfare and is limited to pedestrian traffic.
You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous MajesticCafe.
The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.
Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao. This is the place to pick up picnic provisions. If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal.
Sao Bento’s Azulejos
If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal. Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.
The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.
Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides
The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching. We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.
The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.
Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira. We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day! We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices. We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go.
A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.
Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.
Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto. Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?
Sleep
Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.
Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.We only made tea, but the kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.
Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata. The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here. We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful.
The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage. There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare. There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.
We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.
We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto. After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!
Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.
We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness.
The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.
Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.
There are two things travelers must bring along on every trip—a sense of humor and resilience, because sometimes, maybe even often, things do not go to plan. That’s where a sense of humor comes in handy. This was the case one Sunday in Portugal on what was to be our longest driving day– from Evora in the Alentejo, to the mountains above the Douro River in the north of Portugal, with a stop at the Shrine of Fatima. I had wanted to visit Fatima for a long time and since it was right off the freeway, we thought this was a perfect plan.
It was time to leave the beautiful Alentejo in Portugal’s southwest and head north to the Douro Valley.
We did not get an early start, which is no surprise to anyone who knows us, but instead enjoyed a delicious, and leisurely, last breakfast at Convento do Espinheiro before setting off for the Douro Valley.
Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million pilgrims.
Imagine our surprise when two and half hours hours later we turned off the freeway heading for Fatima and were greeted by plenty of police and even more motorcyclists– thousands of them. Many of the roads leading to the Shrine were closed and everywhere we looked there were motorcyclists—young, old, families, even dogs—all on two wheels.
Apparently everyone in Portugal, with the notable exception of these two visiting Americans, knew there was a special mass for motorcyclists that day at the Shrine of Fatima. After spending about an hour in the traffic jam, we realized there was no possible way we could visit that day. We very sensibly decided to come back on a weekday on our return to Lisbon. I wish I had taken photos of all those motorcyclists but didn’t want to risk offending anyone and there was no possibility of a speedy getaway. On our return visit, things were decidedly quieter.
On Oct. 13 each year nearly hundreds of thousands crowd this immense plaza to celebrate the anniversary of the apparition. On the day we visited, a week after our first attempt, there were very few visitors.
Turns out the plaza at Fatima between the basilica and the chapel can accommodate 1 million people– as it did when Pope John Paul II visited in 1987—and we imagined that nearly as many motorcyclists had made the pilgrimage that Sunday morning, too.
The open air Chapel of the Apparition was built on the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to the children.
Each year the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima welcomes more than 4 million people. When we returned on a Tuesday afternoon a week later, there were no motorcyclists in sight and relatively few visitors. It could have been the 114 degree heat that kept people away.
Many visitors light candles at the shrine and pray for intentions and interventions.
We visited the beautiful basilica and the Chapel of the Apparition where nuns recited the rosary in numerous languages. We also took the time to light a few candles, which were available for sale at the shop and ranged in size from standard to enormous. Some were bigger than my arm!
There is a full schedule of masses, reciting the rosary and confessions offered every day.
It was so terribly hot, and since there was no shade on the plaza, we chose not to cross it to see the enormous rosaries and crucifix on the other side. That will have to wait for another visit. But now, back to our journey to the beautiful Douro Valley—
We enjoyed the drive from the Alentejo in the south to the Douro Valley in the north of Portugal. Be sure your rental car comes equipped with the Portuguese version of the Fast Pass.
Back to the freeway and on to our pousada we went, over winding mountain roads and bridges, through tunnels, and burned out forested areas. The main roads in Portugal are well- paved and well-marked. Smaller side roads are a little bit trickier, but we never had trouble finding our way even out in the countryside. We ate our picnic lunch in the car to save time and arrived in Alijo about three and a half hours later. It had been a long day.
Scenic mountain roads took us north to the vineyards of the Douro Valley.
When we finally arrived at the Palacete Alijo, the first thing we noticed was the laundry hanging out to dry on the balconies. Inside, the pousada didn’t come close to living up to the photos we’d seen online. Perhaps someone had carefully cropped out the propane tanks next door and the rust marks surrounding the pool.
Sadly, this pousada in Alijo didn’t live up to expectations and we left without staying.
The website’s images didn’t deliver an accurate portrayal of the property. This was the view from the room we were meant to have.
The website indicated the place was part of the well-respected Pestana Group. The friendly front desk clerk told us that it hadn’t been for nearly five years and offered us a “welcome” drink. He also mentioned that the air conditioner was broken, brought up a few other housekeeping issues and again offered a welcome drink. We had planned to stay for four nights but after seeing the accommodations, we turned down the drink and summoned up Trip Advisor on our phones.
This was the splendid view across the river to Pesa de Regua from our room at the Vila Gale Douro.
Vila Gale (a hotel group popular in Portugal and Spain) had a river view room available for two nights in the town of Peso de Regua, right on the Douro River. Back to the car we went, grateful we hadn’t brought our bags inside—we never do until after we’ve seen the room. After another hour of driving, this time in the dark through the winding mountain roads, and did I mention it was raining?—we arrived at the Vila Gale Douro.
The Vila Gale Douro, part of a popular group of hotels in Portugal and Spain, is well- located across the river from Peso de Regua.
While my husband parked the rental car in the garage, I went to the hotel’s restaurant to secure a table before they closed. It was 10:30 p.m. at this point and we were really hungry. I thought I was imagining things when I my heard my name called out and turned to find two dear friends from home finishing their dinners. Had we not changed our hotel, we would never have had the chance to spend time with them. We agreed to meet for breakfast the next morning.
Our Vila Gale room was large, comfortable and contemporary and had terrific views from the private balcony.
It was lovely to wake up to this beautiful view from our balcony.
Portuguese wine aficionados know that the steep terraced hillsides of the Douro Valley are home to numerous well-regarded producers of table wines and of course, port. Our friends were free in the morning but had to return to Porto in the afternoon. We agreed that a visit to a nearby winery would be the perfect outing.
We spent a fun and informative morning with our friends at Quinta do Vallado.
Grapes grow seemingly everywhere on the Douro Valley’s steep hillsides.
Like the wineries in the Alentejo, you must make reservations to tour and taste in the Douro Valley. My husband had his heart set on a visit to Quinta do Valladobut when he telephoned, was told that the morning’s English- speaking tour was already full. With the help of our front desk clerk, we secured four spots.
Quinta do Vallado is a highly regarded producer of Douro wines and port. They also have a small hotel on property.
The winery is located high up on the terraced hillside across the river from where we were staying, just about a 10- minute drive away. One of the oldest in the Douro Valley, the winery celebrated its 300th anniversary in 2016. Once owned by Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira (of the Ferreira Port family), production was geared towards port for the company’s first 200 plus years. In 1993, they decided to restructure and expand into producing Quinta do Vallado label table wines and in 2009 construction on the new winery was completed.
Our tour began in the vineyards where some grapes had already been harvested.
We followed our guide from the vineyards, through the production facilities, and into the cellars, as she explained each stage of wine making to the group in English. Tours are also given in Portuguese several times daily. We always ask if English tours are available, though rather than miss out, we’ve taken some in Italian, French and Portuguese at numerous places.
Our knowledgeable tour guide explained the wine making process in detail– and in English.
We saw everything from the grapes growing, to high tech, temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, to the traditional granite legares in which grapes are crushed by foot, to the cellars where the barrels are stored and wines are aged before they’re bottled.
We saw state of the art temperature controlled stainless steel tanks…
…and traditional granite legares where grapes for port are crushed by foot.
Antique barriques are still in use.
New French oak barrels are also used, depending on the kind of wine they’re aging.
After the very informative tour, we all gathered around a communal table and tasted Quinta do Vallado’s wonderful wines, working our way from crisp whites to delicious ports. Many of us made purchases in the quinta’s well-stocked shop.
After our tour we gathered around for a wonderful wine tasting.
During the tasting, we sampled crisp whites, full-bodied reds and finally, ports.
The well-stocked shop beckoned many of the visitors, including our friends and ourselves.
Though we were not able to tour it, Quinta do Vallado has a small hotel on property with 13 rooms—five in the manor house built in 1733, and eight in the modern wing constructed in 2012.
The roads in the Douro are narrow and winding but exceptionally scenic.
There were two things we planned to do in the Douro—wine taste and take a boat ride. After saying goodbye to our friends at the winery, we headed to Pinhao to check out the river cruise options.
The Douro has been used to transport people, port and other products down river to Porto for centuries.
The Douro River meanders from Spain through the heart of northern Portugal down to Porto where it empties into the sea. For centuries, port wine has been transported by boat down river to the city that shares its name with the wine. Day trippers from Porto, cruise boats from lines like AmaWaterways and Viking, private pleasure craft, and charter boats large and small ply the waters of the Douro River. Getting out on the river sounded like a perfect plan on that hot day.
Tourism is big business in the small town of Pinhao.
Pinhao is a small town seemingly fully committed to the tourist trade. There are souvenir shops everywhere and numerous choices for boat rides on the river. A one-hour ride was 10 euro from any of the vendors. We chose our boat based on schedule. They all come and go from the same place and follow a similar route.
River boats all leave from the same place and follow similar routes. Schedules differ but pricing does not. 10 Euro is typical for a one-hour boat ride.
Once aboard, you’ll learn all about the port trade and see many well-known names as you pass by the quintas. We had a delightful time and enjoyed chatting with newlyweds from the Netherlands and a Spanish couple. It was a relaxing and informative hour that passed in a heartbeat. We wished we’d opted for a longer ride.
Our convivial group included newlyweds from the Netherlands and a couple from Spain.
Bridges large and small cross the Douro.
Hillsides, which reminded us of California, are dotted with wineries.
You’ll see quintas with familiar names like Croft along with others that have been producing wine for centuries here.
Our journey was so peaceful and enjoyable we wished we’d booked a longer trip. Next time!
After our boat ride, we walked over to the historic Pinhao train station, which has been in service since 1880. The station is notable for its lovely azulejos—the blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous.
Trains have been transporting travelers to and from the Pinhao station since 1880.
The station is known for its azulejos– the stunning blue and white tiles famous throughout Portugal.
These particular azulejos tell the story of the port trade in 25 large panels that were installed in 1937. There is also a café and shop in the station perfect for a coffee, glass of wine or edible souvenirs.
Pinhao’s 25 panels tell the story of the port trade.
The azulejos were installed in 1937.
The shop inside the station is a pleasant place for a coffee, glass of wine or a snack.
After a leisurely stroll through town and a stop for ice cream and souvenir shopping, we headed back to Pesa de Regua and dinner.
This former industrial building has a new life as home to shops and restaurants.
Just across the bridge from our hotel is a renovated industrial building on R. Jose de Vasques that now houses several restaurants and shops.
Picnic provisions and edible souvenirs are available here.
The contemporary dining room at Castas e Pratos was full on the Monday night we ate here.
We browsed a bit and then headed to Castas e Pratos for our meal. Part wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant, the place was buzzing when we arrived. We were glad we had a reservation upstairs in the airy and modern dining room.
Our starter was a plate of succulent scallops in a rich pea puree.
The tender veal medallions in roquefort sauce was served with a delicious wild mushroom risotto.
Larger parties were sharing dishes like this “Duck Rice”– a local specialty. It looked and smelled divine.
The menu has something for most tastes and includes fish, meat and vegetarian options.
Wines from all over Portugal were featured on the extensive wine list.
We started with a refreshing sparkling rose and ended with a nice tawny port.
Castas e Pratos has an extensive wine list featuring wines from the Douro and as well as all of the other wine producing areas of Portugal. Service was attentive and friendly and we enjoyed every bite of our meal from the scallop starter through desert. Happy and full, we returned to the Vila Gale to plan our next day’s adventure.
The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.
There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.
Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belemwas the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.
The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.
Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimosand its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.
St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.
The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.
Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.
Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.
We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.
Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.
Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.
The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.
Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.
This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.
The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.
After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.
This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.
In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.
You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…
Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.
This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!
Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.
If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.
We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.
Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.
We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.
The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.
The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.
Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.
This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!
Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.
When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.
We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.
The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.
Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.
Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.
The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.
The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.
Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.
There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.
On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!
Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.
Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.
We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!
Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arqueologia has numerous treasures including megaliths.
We saw our first megalith in Lisbon’s Museum of Archeology and we were intrigued. What were these stones with their strange markings? Where could we see more of them? It turns out the largest collection of megaliths on the Iberian peninsula is located less than two hours from Lisbon in the Alentejo region not far from Evora, the area’s capital city.
Drive in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees to reach Almendres Cromlech.
There are numerous places to see megaliths in Portugal, many in the Alentejo, but Cromeleque dos Almendres, or Almendres Cromlech, is the largest and most prominent site. Older than Stonehenge, Cromeleque dos Almendres is located about seven kilometers off the main road, the N114, driving towards Evora from Lisbon. We were heading to the Evora after Lisbon and decided to include a stop to see these archeological wonders.
The megaliths are in a large clearing, surrounded by cork oak trees.
Head in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees. The dirt road is clearly marked with signs–Cromeleque dos Almendres and Menhir dos Almendres– directing you to the site. You will either need a car or a taxi to get here. There is no public transportation available.
Visitors can wander freely around the 95 remaining megaliths, or menhirs, at Almendres Cromlech.
About 95 of the granite megaliths, also called menhirs, still stand in the area and date back to the Neolithic Period (4th and 5th century BC). The stones at Almendres Cromlech are arranged to form two rings and visitors are free to wander all around the area, though touching the stones is discouraged.
The Cromeleque dos Almendres is older than Stonehenge.
It is believed that the earliest stones were placed here in 6000 BC and that ancient peoples used the area at Almendres Cromlech until 3000 BC for religious purposes. There is still a great deal of mystery surrounding the purpose of the stones, their placement and the markings on them, but there is speculation that the site had astrological significance due to its latitudinal location.
The placement, purpose and meaning of the megaliths remains largely a mystery.
There is a map of the enclosure on site, which identifies particular menhirs and describes various markings on the different stones.
Helpful signs in English and Portuguese explain the history of Almendres Cromlech and a map of the area shows where the most important stones are located.
This is identified as megalith number 1 on the posted diagram. The markings are clearly visible.
A careful examination is required to see the ancient markings on many of the stones. Here’s a close up look at one.
Admission to the site is free. Guided tours can be arranged.
We chose to take a self-guided exploration of the area but guided tours can be arranged. We met a Canadian couple who had hired a tour company to take them out to Almendres Cromlech and explain the mysteries of this ancient site and they thoroughly enjoyed their visit. Admission to the site is free and there is plenty of parking.
The Vasco da Gama bridge led us away from lively Lisbon to the rural beauty of the Alentejo.
An easy 90- minute drive southeast of Lisbon takes you to the expansive Alentejo region. Home to medieval villages, castles, palaces, pousadas, megaliths, wine producers, and vast agricultural lands, this beautiful area has something to please nearly all visitors. We made Evora, the capital of the region, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our headquarters. This delightful small city is a great base from which to launch day trips to the many attractions in the area.
The Alentejo’s capital city is best explored on foot– wearing comfortable shoes, of course.
Remember to look up as you wander!
The historic city of Evora has interesting sites and several museums to explore. Just walking the winding streets is a fine way to spend a day, especially in the area around the Largo Conde de Vila Flor. After a pleasant stroll through the Praca do Giraldo, Evora’s bustling main square, we considered our options.
The busy Praca do Giraldo is at the heart of the city. Numerous shopping streets fan off from the Praca.
Cork is king in the Alentejo and is featured in souvenirs from sandals to handbags.
Portuguese pottery is also a popular souvenir.
Time was short so we had to make choices. We decided to save the Contemporary Art Museum for our next visit and headed over to the Museum of Evora, which was hosting a Chinese porcelain exhibition along with its permanent collections.
The Museum of Evora is housed in a former Episcopal palace built in the 17th century.
Beautiful Azulejos tiles line the stone staircase inside the museum.
Teapots, serving pieces, jewelry and other treasures from China are featured in the current exhibition at the museum.
Placards describe the fine Chinese porcelain plates on display in Portuguese and English.
The museum features paintings from the 15th through 19th centuries, drawings, engravings, 17th and 18th century furniture, and Roman sculpture from the 1st and 2nd centuries.
The museum is known for it’s 17th and 18th century painting and sculpture. This piece is by Antonio Teixeira Lopes.
Religious articles, like St. Blaise’s arm reliquary from the 17th century, are part of the permanent collection.
Visitors can see this striking bronze sculpture, statuary, mosaics and other artifacts from the Roman era.
Interesting archeological finds from the Neolithic Age and a collection of silver and gold religious pieces, and jewelry are also on display. There were few visitors on the day we were there.
Antiquities from numerous ancient civilizations are on view.
Artifacts from the Roman era line a courtyard hallway.
Just outside the museum is the Roman Temple from the 1st century AD. Today, the ruins are undergoing restoration and are under wraps, but it is possible to see several of the Corinthian columns.
The Roman Temple which dates from the 1st century is mentioned in all the guide books, but until the restoration is complete, there isn’t much to see.
There is a small park behind the temple that offers nice views over the area beyond Evora and across the way you’ll find a lovely pousada, once a monastery that is now an upmarket hotel called Pousada dos Loios. Feel free to wander inside and take a step back into Portugal’s past. The restaurant here is open to the public.
Here’s a peek at the courtyard and restaurant at Pousada dos Loios.
This small park behind the Roman Temple provided a nice place to relax and enjoy the views over the city and surrounding countryside.
Many people line up at Evora’s Church of St. Francis to visit the Chapel of the Bones or Capela dos Ossis. The 16th century chapel displays the bones and skulls of monks. We’ve seen the creepy Capuchin Crypt in Rome so felt no need to stop in after our visit to the church. The public gardens beside the church were much more appealing.
Inside the Church of St. Francis.
The Chapel of the Bones is a popular tourist attraction inside the Church of St. Francis.
If you have time, stop into Evora’s Cathedral or Se. It’s one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Southern Portugal and is said to be built on the site of a former mosque.
Here are the marvelously mismatched spires of Evora’s cathedral.
Close to the Church of St. Francis, you’ll find Evora’s morning market. The market is indoors and was smaller than some we’ve visited, but we also arrived fairly late in the morning after many of the vendors had closed up shop. Happily, there were several purveyors of tasty cheeses, cured meats, and fruits and vegetables still open.
Many vendors had already packed up and gone home by the time we arrived at the market but there was still plenty to choose from.
Everything you need for a nice picnic is right here–local pork products, sheep and goat’s milk cheeses and other tasty treats.
Evora has lodging options to fit many budgets and preferences. We chose to stay at two very different, but both delightful properties in and near the city. We began our stay at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario, just inside the walls of the city [email protected].
We enjoyed our stay at the small, well-located Albergaria do Calvario.
Located just inside the ancient Roman walls, it was easy to walk all around the city and access the freeway quickly for daytrips from our hotel.
The location made it easy to walk to Evora’s important sites as well as to dinner each evening. It was also convenient to reach the freeway for our day trips further afield. We’ll discuss dining and day trips in additional posts.
The comfortable bar area welcomes guests for drinks and light bites.
Ours was a large, comfortable room with a big balcony overlooking the hotel’s courtyard where many guests enjoyed breakfast, aperitifs, and conversation. Rooms vary substantially in size so be sure to explore your options when booking.
Our room was large and bright with a huge balcony overlooking the courtyard.
The marble used here is mined nearby. There is a Museum of Marble in Vila VIcosa we”ll visit next time.
There is no restaurant per se in the hotel, but they do provide a substantial breakfast buffet and have small meals, snacks, and drinks on offer in the bar. Anything ordered can be enjoyed in the courtyard, the bar area or one of the comfortable sitting areas.
This is just a small part of the bountiful buffet breakfast greeting guests each morning.
The courtyard provides a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast, drinks, or just relax.
Friendly staff are happy to help with restaurant bookings, excursion ideas or whatever you need to make your stay memorable.
The staff is extremely helpful and will even park and retrieve your car for you. Parking is available onsite at no additional charge. Laundry service is also available at a very reasonable price. The only thing we missed at this charming, small hotel was a pool, but we got that at our next hotel–Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa.
Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro.
We also spent several nights about 15 kilometers outside of Evora at the stunning Convento do Espinheiro. The converted convent was built in 1458 and when we stayed, was part of the Luxury Collection group managed by www.starwood.com. The property has traditional rooms in the original buildings as well as two modern wings.
We had a large room in the modern wing of the hotel, complete with a nice balcony.
We enjoyed our stay in the modern wing where we had a very large room with a balcony and views over the property towards to the inviting swimming pool. After nearly 10 days of non-stop touring it was the perfect place to take break.
The pool provided the perfect place for relaxation, lunch, drinks and a refreshing dip.
There is also an indoor pool and a nice spa on site where I enjoyed a relaxing massage. There are tours given daily of the expansive Convento which covers the property’s fascinating history.
Ancient olive trees dot the property which dates back to 1458.
These stone benches have been here since the property was a functioning convent.
There is no charge for the tour, which includes a visit to the beautiful church (still in use), monk’s cistern where a complimentary wine tasting is held each evening, the former dining area and kitchen, as well as the vaulted storage cellar which now houses the hotel’s terrific restaurant.
Convento do Espinheiro was one of the three wealthiest convents in Portugal. The church is still in use today.
The bells, one original, ring out to announce a wedding has taken place.
The wine cellar is housed in the monk’s former cistern, which was once filled with water.
A complimentary wine tasting take place each evening at 6 p.m. in the wine cellar.
We ate dinner there each night of our stay. The food is artfully prepared and beautifully presented by top-notch staff. Be sure to reserve for dinner or prepare to be disappointed—the dining room fills up. Should you choose to go offsite for your dinner and prefer not to drive, the helpful staff can arrange for a taxi into Evora.
Fresh local fish elegantly prepared is served with flair.
Luscious lamb chops with squash puree are featured on the menu.
Save room for dessert.
Where monks once stored their wine, olive oil and honey, hotel guests now enjoy a bountiful breakfast buffet. It is possible to enjoy your morning repast out on one of the terraces or in the courtyard area, as we did.
The former storage for olive oil, wine and honey, now serves as the hotel’s elegant dining room.
We also arranged to see some of the traditional rooms including the “royal suite” used by many honeymoon couples. It is truly spectacular in a beautiful old-world way and features a contemporary bathroom and private rooftop terrace.
The “royal suite” often used by honeymooners offers old world charm and opulence.
The suite’s bathroom features modern fixtures like this free standing tub.
A private rooftop terrace, one flight up from the suite provides glorious views of the area around the Convento.
If your travel plans include a trip to Portugal, don’t miss the beautiful Alentejo. We’re looking forward to our return to this fascinating area.
