We made our way to Bomarzo’s Monster Park on a beautiful autumn day, early enough that the morning fog still hung over the woods adding a decidedly forbidding atmosphere to the place.
With its strange and beautiful sculptures, eerie wooded pathways and vertigo-inducing tipsy house, I wondered for a moment if Lewis Carroll had taken inspiration from Bomarzo for his Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.
The dragon symbolizes time and wisdom, rather than destruction. At Bomarzo, the dragon fights a dog, lion and wolf representing spring, summer and winter.
While appearing completely contemporary, this unconventional garden near Viterbo, Italy was commissioned by Prince Pier Francesco “Vicino” Orsini in 1552. Known for their balance, order and harmony, classical 16th century Italian gardens with their careful geometric designs and extravagant water features seemed to celebrate man’s control over nature. Not so, the wild and woodsy Bomarzo.
Bomarzo’s winding, woodsy paths are full of surprises.
The giant jaws of the whale warn visitors away from the water.
Created by architect Pirro Ligorio in the Mannerist style, this garden is almost a rebellion against order and a tribute to life’s unpredictability. That’s what makes it so much fun to visit.
Proteus, Neptune’s son, comes from the legend of Glauco, a fisherman who became a sea god.
Instead of being adjacent to or surrounding the owner’s villa like most gardens of the period, this one flourishes in a nearby wood, nearly hidden from view from the palace above.
Il Sacro Bosco, the Sacred Wood, is the opposite of the well-ordered classical 16th century Italian garden.
There is no rhyme or reason to this garden. There doesn’t seem to be a relationship between the sculptures and their placement in the park, though that could have everything to do with the fact that they were all carved from gigantic rocks where the stone stood.
Statues were carved on-site from stones where they stood.
Il Sacro Bosco or the Sacred Wood, as the Monster Park is also known, is home to mermaids, sphinx, dragons, nymphs, fountains, a giant tortoise, and a heroic Hercules, among other fantastical sculptures.
The tortoise symbolizes the feminine powers of water and ancient knowledge.
Originally the sculptures would have been painted in bright colors. None of that remains today though some pieces are covered in downy green moss. I was slightly disappointed to see the tortoise had recently had her nice coat of soft green moss removed, though she was still a striking figure.
An elephant carrying a castle was a popular medieval symbol and reference to Hannibal’s use of elephants to invade the Italian peninsula.
This elephant, holding a wounded or dead soldier, represents Rome’s victories and defeats.
Many of the Bomarzo’s sculptures have historical, religious and cultural significance. Some are meant to be puns or puzzles. Others may have had meanings which have long been lost over the nearly 500 years since the garden was created. The brochure we received with our tickets gave explanations for all of the 35 key sculptures, as well as serving as a guide through the park.
The sleeping nymph, which represents purity in Greek mythology, is both human and divine.
The Ogre, or L’Orco, king of the underworld, is at the center of the garden and one of the most popular sculptures at Bomarzo. I found a photo of surrealist artist Salvador Dali sitting in the “Mouth of Hell” in 1938! He was so inspired by the Monster Park that he made a short film about the gardens.
A school group posed in front of the giant sculpture amid much jostling and laughter, clearly enjoying the monsters and whimsical creatures throughout the park.
The inscription above the entrance says, “Abandon all thought,” a reference, and maybe a tribute, to Dante Alighiere’s Divine Comedy- Inferno, where a warning above the Gates of Hell reads, “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.” Don’t be put off. Inside the mouth, visitors will find cool respite and a small built- in table and seats. It’s a perfect place for contemplation and perhaps a picnic.
Just try to walk around inside the Leaning House without losing your balance!
Another popular stop, the Leaning House doesn’t seem so disorienting until you get inside and try to explore the rooms. There’s not much to see other than the family crest and motto. It is a vertiginous experience at best and not a place to linger—purposefully, scholars think. Some believe that the house represents the falling fortunes of the Orsini family, but nearly 500 years on, the house still stands!
Proserpina welcomes visitors to the hippodrome area.
Hiding around every corner or peeking through the trees are heroic and monumental figures. Proserpina, wife of Pluto, stands in for Diana and Juno greeting visitors with open arms. An enormous Hercules—a protector of good, is shown subduing the evil Caucus. Ceres appears with her circle of babies.
Hercules, protecting the poor, vanquishes Caucus, who stole food from them.
Neptune towers over the basin, while the open jaws of a whale warn visitors away from the water. Nearby, a giant nymph is both human and divine– a reference to the sleeping Ariadne. There are Furies, a pegasus, dolphins, lions and other mythical and magical creatures throughout the garden.
The Winged Fury is of Greek origin and also played an important role in Roman religion. The Furies were considered guardians of national glory and the fertility of the soil.
There are large vases with inscriptions no longer decipherable, benches with messages in Latin, and much more that will surprise and delight around every turn.
Some of the benches have Latin inscriptions.
Scholars think this sculpture represents Bacchus’s descent into hell, goblet in hand. Medusa’s head is carved into the bottom of the giant vase.
Il Sacro Bosco was created as a memorial to Prince Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese, of the wealthy Farnese family. Their money helped fund the garden, which her broken- hearted husband intended as a manifestation of his grief and a place of shock and surprise.
Il Sacro Bosco was created as a tribute to Orsini’s late wife, Guilia Farnese.
A Pegasus in the garden represents Orsini’s in-laws– the Farnese family. The Temple of Eternity was built 20 years after the original garden as a memorial to Guilia and was designed with roses associated with the Orsini family.
Wander as you like, but if you follow the suggested trail in the park’s brochure you’ll see all of the key sculptures and sights in this fascinating garden.
Visitors are welcome to wander freely through the paths, but following the trail outlined on the brochure’s itinerary will ensure that you won’t miss a single one of the extraordinary sculptures and sights waiting in the Sacred Wood at Bomarzo. While the traditional gardens of the period we visited– including Villa Farnese, Villa Lante and Villa D’Este–are stunning, Bomarzo is absolutely fascinating. We’ve never experienced anyplace like it!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
Protected by US Copyright Laws.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you, and I promise not to spend it all on gelato
There’s plenty of summer left, so if you like spending your sunny days outdoors, head to Bend, Oregon. Hiking, biking, fishing, rock climbing, floating, kayaking, and paddle boarding are just a few of the outdoor pursuits that make Bend (and nearby Central Oregon communities) enormously popular in summer months. Waterfalls, lakes, and lava flows are close by and the mighty Deschutes River winds its way right through the city.
The Deschutes River runs right through Bend, Oregonproviding plenty of summer fun for kayakers, paddle boarders and floaters.
I noticed a sign saying, “Defund Visit Bend,” posted on a bridge on a recent stay, but I’ve always found the locals friendly and happy to share the attractions their city offers. As a frequent visitor, here are some of my favorite places to go out and play:
I think floating on the Deschutes River is one of the best ways to while away a summer afternoon in Bend, and I’m not alone in that opinion. Between Memorial Day and Labor Day, one quarter of a million people take to the river on floats, paddle boards and kayaks, according to VisitBend.com. Weekends get really crowded. If you can, do your floating mid-week. There are rules for everyone’s safety. Wear your personal flotation device (there are no lifeguards on the river), and alcoholic beverages are not permitted. It’s the law.
Early on a midweek morning, you’ll share the river with more ducks than people.
We’ve seen plenty of dogs floating with their humans, but it is not recommended, even with doggie life jackets. Neither are pool toys and floats; they aren’t sturdy enough for the rocks and branches you’ll encounter. If you don’t have your own, rent equipment at Park & Float or Riverbend Park. PFDs are free to borrow at both places. Reserve your floats in advance since it’s first come, first served, at the rental places.
Pets and pool toys belong at home, not on the river.Follow the “tips for success” for everyone’s safety.
Along with your water bottle, sunscreen, hat, and rash guard, remember your aqua socks. Get a pair with sturdy soles to protect your feet from rocks. Leave your flip flops at home. You’ll also want a dry bag to keep your car keys, wallet and phone safe while you float along. If you didn’t bring one, there’s an REI in the Old Mill District.
There’s a short section of the Deschutes with rapids, but you can choose to go over them or not.
Keep an eye out for the white water rapids under the Colorado Avenue Bridge. Fear not, it’s a short segment of the river. If you’re not up for the adrenaline rush, it’s easy to leave the river just before the rapids and put back in after you pass them. There are warning signs in the river that show where to go. It’s fun to watch people navigate the rapids on their floats, paddle boards, kayaks, and sometimes, surf boards, from the safety of the shore. Depending on where you put in (and the currents) your river “cruise” will take between one and two hours.
Surf’s up on the Deschutes! Bring your board and enjoy the ride.
The Old Mill District: Go for the Music, Bird Watching, and More
Hayden Homes Amphitheater hosts high wattage talent all summer long.
You’ll have floated (or paddled) right by the Old Mill District on your river outing. The towering smokestacks you passed have become a Bend landmark, and are all that remain of what were once two highly productive lumber mills. Now the Old Mill District is a thriving gathering place with restaurants, bars, shops and Hayden Homes, the largest outdoor music venue in Oregon. The amphitheater has 8,000 seats, including lawn spots, and features chart toppers in every genre from alt rock to cowboy crooners all summer long. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a sultry summer night!
Paved paths along the Deschutes beckon bike riders and dog walkers.
The inviting pathways along both sides of the Deschutes at the Old Mill make it easy to walk, jog, or bike along the river. If you don’t have your own two wheels, Wheel Fun bike rentals are open seasonally. Bend is a dog-friendly town so bring your furry friend for a stroll here, but please obey leash laws.
This is also a great place for bird watching. Pick up a free guide at the Ticket Mill or the Bend Visitor Center before you set out. Raptors, woodpeckers, songbirds, waterfowl and shorebirds as well as owls and quails call Bend and its environs home or are migratory visitors. The East Cascades Bird Alliance occasionally offers free guided “bird walks” along the river.
Bird watching is a popular pastime at the Old Mill.
If you’re looking for retail therapy, the Old Mill has everything from clothing to fine jewelry, accessories and sporting goods. There are also plenty of places to eat and drink. But let’s get back to the great outdoors.
Climb Smith Rock
Smith Rock State Park draws rock climbers from around the world. It’s a great place to hike and bike, too.
Some claim rock climbing was invented at Smith Rock State Park in nearby Terrebonne. Whether that’s true or not, with a ridge elevation of 3,200 feet, the high volcanic walls are a big draw for climbers from around the world. That’s not for me, but the scenic hiking trails are. Choose the well-marked trails that best match your abilities from the easy Canyon Trail to the aptly named Misery Ridge Trail. You’ll enjoy spectacular vistas on whichever trail you follow, especially the ones overlooking Crooked River. Smith Rock is also popular for fishing and mountain biking. It’s a beautiful place to spend the day.
The scenic trails along Crooked River are my favorite.
There is little to no shade at Smith Rock State Park, and it gets really hot in Central Oregon in the summertime. Try to get out on the trail early and bring plenty of water. Rangers recommend 16 oz. per person per hour. Wear sunscreen and appropriate footwear and be mindful that this is a wilderness area. Watch out for wildlife and snakes.
Smith Canyon’s majestic volcanic walls.Choose trails that match your ability. You don’t want to have to use the emergency equipment!Smith Rock State Park’s Welcome Center has passes, maps and more.
There is a $10 day use fee for Oregon residents ($12.50 for all others), unless you have an annual Oregon State Park pass. Smithrock.com has all the details you’ll need to plan your outing. Check in at the Welcome Center in the parking lot for passes, maps and information.
Get out on the trail as early as you can in the summer. Stop at Juniper Junction.Time for huckleberry ice cream
There are no services in the park, but plan to stop at nearby Juniper Junction. Rockhard has the most delicious huckleberry ice cream I’ve ever tasted. Reward yourself after your exertions! The small store also has local crafts, souvenirs, and snacks. Contact them for rock climbing guides.
Alpacas!
Meet the friendly alpacas at Crescent Moon Ranch.The babies are adorable.Shop for alpaca everything!
On your way back to Bend, stop at the Crescent Moon Alpaca Ranch. Walk around the enclosure, learn about, and feed these fuzzy creatures whose wool is so prized. These alpacas are super friendly and so are the people who work here. We saw new babies in the barn and you might, too. Crescent Moon has a terrific gift shop with all things alpaca from gorgeous knitwear to stuffed toys and lotions and potions made locally. They sell the alpaca food there, too.
A Special Place:Newberry National Volcanic Monument
Volcanic activity began here 500,000 years ago and produced 400 cinder cones, lava tubes, and vents amid a flow area that covers 1,200 square miles. Newberry National VolcanicMonument in the Deschutes National Forest covers 57,384 acres of that area, which means there are plenty of places to explore the fascinating geological formations created by volcanoes in Central Oregon.
Some sites in the Newberry National Volcanic Monument are accessible to all, others are not for the mobility challenged. Big Obsidian Flow is in the latter category. Formed only 1,300 years ago, it is the youngest lava flow here.
This is the “trail” up the Big Obsidian Flow. Figuring out where to safely put my feet was a challenge.
Somehow we thought it would be fun to climb what turned out to be an extremely treacherous one- mile loop to the top of the razor-sharp flow. It was all about the views of surrounding mountains and Paulina Lake for us. While we were enjoying the sights from the top, suddenly lightning flashed, thunder roared, and the rain poured down. Realizing we were the tallest things up there, we ran for our lives as carefully as we could down the hazardous, barely- there trail, getting soaked to the skin. It was an adventure we laugh about now.
There’s Paulina Lake behind us. We were woefully unprepared for the downpour.Weather changes fast in the high desert. By the time we reached Paulina Lake Lodge, we were still dripping but the sun was shining.
We’d gone from sunshine to torrential rains and back to sunshine by the time we reached nearby Paulina Lake. We knew we’d find restrooms, shelter and food there. A kind woman on the restroom line took one look at my soaking wet hair and clothes and offered me her beach towel. I gladly accepted. Paulina Lake is popular for boating and fishing and has a lodge with a casual restaurant. They rent boats ranging from canoes to motorboats, but I’d had enough water for one day.
Welcome to Lava Lands!
There are spectacular views across the lava fields to the mountains beyond at Lava Lands.
Lava Lands Visitor Center with its Chitwood Exhibit Hall is a great place to begin your exploration of the Newbury National Volcanic Monument. Named for a former geologist with the U.S. Forest Service, the Chitwood Exhibit Hall is full of educational, interactive exhibits on the geology and cultural history of the area including a 3D topographical map. There are daily films and helpful Forest Service Ranger talks.
The 7,000 -year old lava flows here came from Lava Butte, above.The paved Sun Lava Trail is accessible to all.
Step outside the visitors center and you’ll enter Lava Land. There’s a 5.5-mile fully accessible Sun Lava Trail as well as the Trail of Molten Land over the 7,000-year-old lava that flowed down from nearby Lava Butte. There are plenty of informative signs about the geological features, the wildlife, and the original inhabitants on these lands. A seasonal shuttle takes visitors to Lava Butte for a fee, or you can hike up. There’s also a pleasant walk through a young forest along the Trail of the Whispering Pines.
Had we come here first, we would have been better prepared for Big Obsidian Flow! There are picnic tables and restrooms here as well as a well-stocked gift shop.
Spooky and Surreal Lava Cast Forest
All that remains of a majestic forest are these otherworldly lava casts.
Once upon a time, an enormous forest stood where lava casts of this old growth forest now lie. About 7,000 years ago molten lava caught the trees on fire, and the resulting steam formed the casts. It’s an extraordinary place and fascinating to see.
The landscape is eerily beautiful at Lava Cast Forest.There are helpful informational signs on the trail.The trail is less accessible as it winds into the forest.
The beginning of the trail from the parking lot is paved and accessible to all, but further out into the Lava Cast Forest the trail becomes rough and nearly disappears in places. Strollers or wheelchairs should turn back, but hikers can continue down the switchback through the Ponderosa Pines. There are no services and no shade here so be prepared for heat and sun, and pack accordingly.
Waterfalls Galore
You’ll need to hike to see this waterfall in Deschutes County.
The Northwest Waterfalls Survey lists more than 60 waterfalls in Deschutes County, some unnamed. At almost 100 feet, Tumalo Falls is the tallest and one of the most popular waterfalls in Central Oregon. It’s easy to reach and busy with bikers and hikers. For fewer crowds, head halfway between Bend and Sunriver to see both Dillon and Benham Falls. We visited both one afternoon.
It’s a thrill to watch the whitewater race by at these atypical waterfalls in the Deschutes National Forest.
These are very different from the typical cascading waterfalls you might expect, but well worth a visit. Reach these falls by either hiking the Deschutes River Trail between the two or driving to each. We drove and hiked the trails along the river at each of the falls.
Take a moment. Breathe in the fragrant pines and enjoy the spectacular white water views!
The one-mile accessible trail from the day use/parking area at Dillon Falls takes you through the towering Ponderosa pines to a lookout point over the river. The river narrows here, and you can view the raging rapids furiously funneling through the channel as it drops, creating Dillon Falls. The lava flow on the opposite shore is impressive, too.
Volcanic walls force the powerful rapids through a narrow channel in the Deschutes forming Dillon Falls.The waters near Dillon Falls are extremely dangerous.
Beware! The river here runs tremendously fast and turns into Class-V whitewater. It is as treacherous as it is beautiful and a recent tubing accident resulted in fatalities. If you are not an expert on the water, the views are best enjoyed from the trail. Hike along the riverbank to enjoy the spectacular scenery.
Dillon Falls has roiling rapids and class-5 whitewater. It’s a beautiful hike along the riverbank and a much safer place to enjoy these raging waters.
South of Dillon, you’ll find Benham Falls. At 25 feet, Benham is the largest waterfall on the Upper Deschutes River. There’s no monumental cascade of water, instead you’ll see a series of powerful rapids rushing over steep volcanic rock. The drop forms Benham Falls. You may see rafters and kayakers paddling through the fast-moving river here, surrounded by high volcanic walls. We also spotted hardy mountain bikers on the rugged trail as we relaxed with our picnic lunch.
Enjoy the tranquility.Take a hike through giant Ponderosa Pines at Benham Falls.Rushing white water and lava flows are hallmarks of Benham Falls.
Just beyond the Newbury Caldera, 80 feet high Paulina Falls is another favorite. There’s a short, accessible trail to the double-plumed waterfall and a picnic area. Hike further along to view the majestic falls from above, which we did. You won’t be alone here; these falls are popular.
You’ll need a $5 day use pass, Northwest Forest annual pass, or a lifetime America the Beautiful pass available to people age 62+ for $80 wherever you see signs saying, “Recreation fee required.” Click here for pass and permit information.
But Wait, There’s More!
Bend has plenty to offer in all seasons, and it’s especially enjoyable in summertime. Visitors can explore the Ale Trail, High Desert Food Trail, and Roundabout Art Route. Downtown Bend is a delight with boutiques, restaurants, breweries, and bars. There are world-class golf resorts, and even a tea producer in this growing city.
Bend has something for everyone.
Woman-owned Metolius blends responsibly- sourcedteas from family farms and small co-ops, along with delicious handcrafted syrups. You can sample their popular chai, Earl Gray and other teas at local cafes including Sisters Coffee and the Backporch. They’ll ship your online order or you can pick it up when you’re in Bend. I love their teas and was lucky enough to have a private tour there.
Metolius Teas are handcrafted in Bend.Tea for two! Chai Lattes with Cardamom Rose garnish from Metolius.Yum!
There are also notable museums in and around Bend, including the High Desert Museum, my favorite! More on that in another article.
Have some outdoor fun in Bend before the sun sets on summer.
Whether you’re traveling solo, as a couple, or taking the whole family; go and enjoy this outdoor paradise while the summer days are long.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
Protected by US copyright laws.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you!
Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska and summer is on its way. In the space of a week, trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow for months, erupt in a riot of blooms and buds. The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light in our 49th state until late August. There are plenty of Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes! Here are some suggestions:
Rolling On the River
A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.
Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.
Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.
I got a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse and found out he, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.
Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.Relax and enjoy the spectacular scenery while you learn about this fascinating area.
These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history. We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!
Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.
As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore while we watched and cheered from the boat.
Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.These sled dogs and their handlers demonstrate what it takes to be part of a winning team.
He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.
A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.
We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead. We learned about the salmon that was a dietary mainstay not just for the people, but their dogs as well, and watched a demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.
Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.
We also saw a fashion show of sorts featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain—moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.
Traditional Athabascan winter wear.Fur is key in Alaska’s subzero temps.
Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. While many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas, and conventional camps have been abandoned in many areas, we were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited.
The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.
As we enjoyed the scenery on our way back, our captain’s grandmother came out of her home on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically at her grandson, and us. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us. We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week, while others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.
Cultural Exchange
Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.
Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work, which included jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.
Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.We had the chance to meet the artisans who created the handicrafts for sale.
We also enjoyed a dance performance put on by local tribal members who explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. We were treated to the still rare event of having a woman drummer accompany the dancers. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!
We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.
The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.
Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.
Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.
Cool Cars and Clothes
Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.
If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.
The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.
The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage. Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.
The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.
Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.
Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.
Go North
The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.
The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.
Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.
Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.
Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.
Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.
While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.
A Day in Denali
Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.
One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. We took a bus, which had been arranged for our group, to the Park. We learned that Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park. Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park,but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.
Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.
Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.
Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!
Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.
A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.Don’t hike alone– it is safer and more fun with friends anyway!
We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!
Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.
We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos. We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.
The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad from Denali to Fairbanks is unparalleled!
After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad.Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.
Go Play Outside
Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball!
When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!
The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!
Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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Skip the sweltering summer heat and crazy crowds. Sunny skies, warm weather, wild flowers amidst the ancient ruins, and best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the extraordinary sights that Greece has to offer make Spring the best time to visit. Our original plan was an April trip to the Greek islands, but we were a month too early. Most island hotels weren’t even open yet so we chose a road trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula instead.
We sawonly pleasure craft in Nafplio’s beautiful harbor–several from as far away as Sweden and Wales.
The Beautiful Seaside CIty You Probably Never Heard Of
Nafplio, Greece’s first capital city, is less than a two-hour drive from Athens. Though this charming seaside city is unfamiliar to many Americans, it’s a favorite weekend getaway for Athenians. With its rich history, Venetian fort and castle, wonderful museums, and important archeological sites nearby, this is where we began our Peloponnese adventure
Sunday afternoons are perfect for a stroll and a leisurely lunch across from the Nafplio harbor.
We chose a boutique hotel in a former sea captain’s home as our base– 3Sixty Hotel & Suites. The busy harbor, lined not with working boats, but luxury yachts and other pleasure craft, enticing shops, and open-air restaurants with fresh fish on offer, was a five-minute walk in one direction. Syntagma Square, the center of the historic old town with museums, beautiful churches and more restaurants and shops was five minutes the opposite way.
Nafplio’s Historic Center
Syntagma Square is still the heart of the city. The Archeological Museum forms the Western wall of the square.
Syntagma or Constitution Square, remains the center of public and political life in Nafplio and it was here that the citizenry rose up and demanded independence from the Ottoman Empire. Throughout the city there are monuments, plaques and a War Museum proudly proclaiming the important role Nafplio’s citizens played in Greece’s War of Independence.
You’ll find monuments to Greece’s War for Independence all around Nafplio. The Palamidi Castle looms high above this one.
Standing in the center of the square you are surrounded by several of modern Greece’s most important buildings. The former mosque used as the country’s first Parliament and the homes of Greece’s first Governor, Ionnis Kapodisrias, and War of Independence hero Theodoros Koloktronis are here, along with Nafplio’s Archeological Museum. The must- see museum is housed in a 1713 Venetian building that forms the Western side of the Square and boasts exhibits that date back to the Paleolithic era.
These figurines were discovered at the archeological site at Tiryns and date to 6th-5th century BC. They are part of the permanent collection at Nafplio’s Archeological Museum.
Priceless antiquities, some more than 5,000 years old, including pottery, clay and bronze seals, and marble figurines, await in this impressive building originally meant as a warehouse for the Venetian fleet.
This cache of 92 golden staters dates back to the early 3rd century BC.
Clay hearths from 3,200-2,100 BC, stone and bone tools, jewelry, anthropomorphic clay figures, and some of the earliest handmade Neolithic clay vases are displayed, giving us a glimpse into what life was like back then.
Ouch! You’ll find these iron reinforcements for sandals at the Nafplio Archeological Museum.
While you’re in the historic center, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the pedestrian-only shopping streets. There are shops, restaurants, bakeries, and cafes to suit most tastes and budgets.
After a nice wander around town and some shopping, I always want ice cream. Here’s my favorite!
Visit one of the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches here, like St. George’s Cathedral with both Byzantine and Venetian 16th century architecture. Another noteworthy church is St. Spyridon on Odos Kapodisriou. The street was named for the first governor. Mr. Kapodisriou was murdered by political rivals on the threshold of the small church.
Greece’s first governor met his untimely end at the hands of political rivals here at St. Spyradon.
The Conquerorsand What They Left Behind
The Venetians built this island fortress to protect the city from the Ottomans. The Turks captured Nafplio in 1540, were ousted by the Venetians in 1685, and retook the city in 1715. Today the Bourtzi is a tourist attraction.
Over the centuries the city was captured and ruled by Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Turks before Greece won independence in 1830. These conquerors have all left their mark on Nafplio’s culture, architecture and cuisine.
The Venetians were responsible for two of Nafplio’s best known and most visible landmarks—the Bourtzi and Palamidi Castle, both open to the public. On arrival, you’ll see a small, fortified island in Nafplio’s harbor. Bourtzi means island fortress in Turkish, but it was originally named Castello dello Soglio by the Venetians who built it on the islet of St. Theodoroi in 1471 to protect the city and harbor from invading Ottomans. Take a 10-minute boat ride from the harbor to visit the Bourtzi. Extremely windy weather on the day we planned to visit kept us away.
Built by the Venetians and conquered by the Ottomans a year later in 1715, the Palamidi Castle is visible from nearly everywhere in Nafplio, including the public beach.
The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece, looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks only one year after it was built, ending the Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio in 1715. The castle has spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim 999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light a candle.
There are hundreds of years of history to explore at the Palamidi Castle.
Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below. Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the Castle is not accessible to mobility challenged visitors.
If you plan to spend several days in Nafplio and explore nearby archeological sites, buy the 20 Euro three-day combination ticket at Palamidi Castle or the Archeological Museum. It includes Mycenae Archeological Site and Museum, Byzantine Museum at Argolis (Argos), Tiryns Archeological Site, Nafplio Archeological Museum, Palamidi Castle and Asini Archeological site. We managed to see all except Asini.
Why Worry (Beads)?
Greek worry beads, or komboloi, have been popular since the Ottomans ruled Nafplio.
It’s common to see Greek men toying with a rhythmically clacking string of beads while they’re walking down the street, chatting with friends, dining– pretty much anytime. These are komboloi—worry beads— and Nafplio has a unique museum dedicated to them. Komboloi became popular during the Turkish occupation but the use of beads for prayer, mediation, and to ward off evil can be traced to the 8th century BC. Always strung in odd numbers, the beads are traditionally barrel shaped and made from amber, carnelian, horn, bone (buffalo and camel are popular) semi-precious stones, ivory or olive wood. Along with komboloi, the museum has a spectacular collection of beads dating from 1550 to 1950 including Muslim prayer beads brought back by the crusaders and converted to rosary beads, and Hindu and Buddhist meditation beads. No photos were allowed in the Museum.
Komboloi made from natural materials can cost from several hundred to more than 1,500 euro.
Because Nafplio is so closely associated with komboloi, there are shops selling beads of varying quality everywhere. I liked Amber House at 12 Vos. Konstantinou, which carries locally crafted komboloi. Natural materials make the most satisfying sounds and are meant to sooth, owner Angelika told me. She had me hold several komboloi to find the most comfortable string and listen to the sounds the beads made before purchasing.
Tiryns and Hercules
Wildflowers were blooming amidst the ruins everywhere we visited in the Peloponnesian Peninsula, like here at Tiryns.
In 468 BC the ancient city of Tiryns was sacked by neighboring Argos. Today, wildflowers, poppies and chamomile bloom among the remaining stone foundations of the once thriving kingdom. Climb the stone steps to the upper ramparts and use your imagination to see where the palace once stood, as well as homes and shops in this community of 15,000. Fun fact: Hercules’ mother (Greeks call him Heracles), Alcmene, was the Queen of Tiryns. You’ll likely have this peaceful place all to yourself, as we did.
Mighty Mycenae and a Scandalous StoryMighty Mycenae and a Scandalous Story
Mycenae’s extensive archeological site covers about 79 acres or 32 hectares.
One of the most important archeological sites in the world is perched high between two hills 30 minutes from Nafplio. Home to the once mighty Mycenean civilization, this area has been inhabited since the 7th millennium BC. The extensive ruins here date from the late Bronze Age (1,350 to 1,200 BC). Excavation of the vast site began in 1876, funded by a German businessman with a penchant for Homerian heroes. He was on a quest to find the burial site of King Agamemnon and he succeeded.
These enormous stones at Mycenea are a hallmark of Cyclopsean architecture. It was thought that only creatures as great as the cyclops could have built with stones this size, not mortal men.
Legend has it that the conquering hero returned home from war (Agamemnon, not the German businessman) to find his wife Clytemnestra had taken up with Aegisthus, his cousin. Together they stabbed him to death in the bath, partly in revenge for sacrificing Clytemnestra’s daughter to ensure favorable winds for the Greeks as their warships sailed to Troy. The lovers are buried in giant beehive tombs, side by side, in the fields below the citadel. You’ll have to drive up the road and hike a bit to find Agamemnon’s larger, but solitary resting place. Don’t miss these ancient architectural wonders with their spectacular domes!
Walk inside Agamemnon’s phenomenal tholos, or beehive, tomb- an architectural wonder. Pieces of the sculpted facade are on display at the British Museum in London and the National Archeological Museum in Athens. Grave robbers make it impossible to know what treasures he may have been interred with.
Mycenae is on the tourist route and there were busloads the morning we visited. The often-photographed Lions Gate is at the entrance and selfie-seekers can create a bottleneck. Be prepared to be awed as you follow the pathway up through the Cyclopean walls where you’ll find the ruined palaces, temples, royal burial circles, cistern, treasury and fortifications.
Royal burial circles at Mycenae are just inside the gates. The dead were placed in vaults vertically.
There are some paved paths at Mycenae, particularly in the beginning of the complex through the Lion’s Gate and past the royal burial circles. Further along, the path is mostly rocks and dirt with sharp pieces of marble protruding from the ground and then it becomes paved again. Much of this site is not accessible for people with mobility challenges, nor are the fields below the citadel where the beehive tombs are located.
The famous Lions Gate is a highlight at ancient Mycenae and one of the few areas accessible for those with mobility challenges.
Whether you visit the Mycenae Museum before or after the archeological site is personal preference, as long as you see it. More than 2,500 amazing treasures including fine gold works like Agamemnon’s exquisite death mask, everyday items like pottery, weapons, figurines, jewelry, and frescoes from the archeological site showcase the life and afterlife of the ancient Myceneans from the Bronze Age to the Hellenistic Era.
Agamemnon”s death mask is just a splendid example example of the fine gold work the Mycenaens were known for.You’ll find it in the Mycenae Museum.
An Ancient Healing Place
It’s a long climb to the top of the ancient theater at Epidaurus. Known for its outstanding acoutics, it still hosts performances today. And yes, you can hear every word spoken at the bottom!
In the ancient world, Epidaurus and the Sanctuary of Asclepius was known as a curative place. Asclepius was the most important healing god in antiquity. Today the site draws visitors primarily for its theater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its perfect acoustics. Built around 340 BC, the Greek theater, which was expanded by the Romans to seat up to 14,000, is one of the best preserved in the world and still used for performances. Climb up the steep stone steps to the top and listen to the “orators” below.
Take time to wander through the Sanctuary of Asclepius, one of the most important healing places of the ancient world.
After, head out to the sanctuary where you can visit temples, the gymnasium and the enkoimeteria- a large hall where visitors would sleep and wait for the gods to come to them in their dreams with health advice. There is also a small museum on the site with sculptures and other excavated artifacts.
Byzantium
The road leading to the ancient Argos Theater, built in 320 BC, still has some of its marble pavers. Just beyond are Roman baths and the Greek Agora is across the road.
Snakes were the only thing on my mind as we followed the groundskeeper who, armed with a weedwhacker, cleared the tall grass between placards in the ancient agora, or marketplace, at Argos. Located in the modern town, the ruins of Roman baths and the theater complex are across a busy street. They’re worth seeing, though there is little signage.
Detail on a stela near the Argos Theater.
The Byzantine Museum, housed in the historic Kapodistria Barracks, focuses on private, public and religious life here, from 324 AD until 1453 AD. Everyday objects, pottery, sculpture, weapons, and religious artifacts that belonged to residents of the one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world gave us a fascinating peek into the past.
This 13th century bowl is among the everyday objects on display at the Byzantine Museum in Argos.
Nafplio and the amazing archeological sites nearby filled us with wonder and sparked our interest in returning to this spectacular region for a deeper exploration of these ancient civilizations. Our road trip continued to Kalamata, Patras, Galaxidi, Delphi and finally, Athens—a city we could have spent a month exploring. Those who choose the Peloponnese Peninsula as their destination, as we did, will be generously rewarded. We’ll visit the islands another time!
Practicalities– Driving and More
Driving on Greece’s main roads is easy. Mountainous, country roads are bit of a challenge but getting to explore the Peloponnese countryside is worth the effort.
Nafplio is an easy drive from Athens, but country roads can be winding and narrow, especially in the mountains, and people drive fast. Most signage is in Greek and English but not all, so prepare by jotting down the Greek spelling for your destination, especially if it is off the main road, and bring paper maps. Most Greeks speak English, but they were tickled when we could say good morning, hello, goodbye, and thank you in their native tongue. Very few of the archeological sites we visited were accessible for people with mobility challenges.
Nafplio was a great place to begin our exploration of the Peloponnese Peninsula. We will definitely return!
Throughout Spain, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, known as Semana Santa or Holy Week, is observed in ways both joyous and solemn. Each afternoon and evening from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, thousands of Spaniards and visitors gather in city streets and town squares to celebrate a Catholic tradition that dates back at least to the 15th century—to the reign of the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand. The Catholic monarchs, as they are called, told the story of Christ’s resurrection to a largely illiterate population in a way that has endured for centuries, through processions. Here’s our experience:
Processions on each day of Semana Santa correspond to the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection with different pasos depicting specific biblical scenes from the New Testament. In Ronda, one of Andalusia’s famous “white towns,” Jesus is shown arriving in Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday, traditionally the beginning of Holy Week.
We arrived in Madrid for the first time on a Maundy Thursday– the Thursday before Easter commemorates Christ’s Last Supper and is one of the Catholic Church’s holiest days. Though it was after 9 p.m., we were confident we’d find plenty of dinner options in a city known for dining late. Instead, we found one restaurant after another closed. Finally, at the Bar Santa Clara, the proprietor explained most places were closed not due to the hour, but to the day, pointing out it was Holy Week and that in Madrid people take Easter very seriously. He told us we could have “anything on toast” but that was all they were serving that evening. We ordered everything available–cheese, tomatoes, anchovies, and ham—all on toast.
Good Friday is one of the most important days in Holy Week and the pasos and processions are fittingly elaborate. It was well after midnight when this Good Friday procession returned to Toledo’s Cathedral.
We returned to our apartment behind the Prado Museum close to midnight and were getting ready for bed when our son excitedly announced, “I hear a parade!” We followed the pounding of drums and the heady scent of incense down the street towards San Jeronimo—the church favored by Spain’s Royal Family. Sure enough, a candlelit procession appeared out of the dark. First, we saw columns of marchers in various colored robes, faces covered, wearing tall, pointed hats. It was unsettling. Next, seemingly swaying to the music and moving ever so slowly, came an enormous float we learned was called a paso, featuring a life-sized Christ figure. Beneath it, we could see the strained faces of the men who somberly carried it on their shoulders. We watched until the entire procession passed into the church.
Be prepared for huge crowds during Semana Santa. The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful in Spain, filled in minutes before the procession began. Streets and sometimes whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic during Holy Week.
We didn’t understand the scale of Holy Week celebrations in Spain, or their importance, until the next evening when we found ourselves caught up in enormous crowds between four different processions around Plaza Mayor, as we tried unsuccessfully to get to dinner on time. This, we began to understand, was how they celebrate Semana Santa. We joined in the celebrations.
Sevilla is known for its elaborate Semana Santa celebrations. Chairs, banners and barricades went up at least a week before the festivities began.
Fast forward a few years and we are in Sevilla. Preparations are well underway for Semana Santa though the festivities won’t begin for another week. Colorful banners are hung from balconies lining the procession routes that crisscross the city. Barricades are erected, and chairs and bleachers are set up in key locations for those privileged few with tickets. The rest of us will crowd the streets and sidewalks waiting and watching for the story of the Passion of the Christ to unfold as it has for 500 years or more.
Every detail on the pasos must be perfect. At the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador in Sevilla, members of the cofradia work together to ready their pasos for Holy Week.
Meanwhile, cofradias (also called hermandades) or brotherhoods, are busy in parishes everywhere, painstakingly assembling the lavish pasos. These floats are beautiful works of art featuring biblical scenes that tell the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection from the New Testament. They hold life-sized statues often handcrafted from wood and can include precious metals. They are laden with candles, fresh flowers, and icons. The most beautiful of these hold a single statue—the Madonna or Senora Dolarosa, the grieving mother of Christ. She is enrobed in an elaborate cape, often hand- embroidered with gold and silver thread, wearing gleaming jewels and surrounded by candles and flowers.
Jamie is a member of the confradia at the Church of the Magdalena and one of the 35 to 45 men, called costaleros, who will carry this exquisite paso through the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week. Once fully decorated with candles and flowers, pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds or more.
While the pasos are being readied, you can visit them in their parishes. We spent days wandering from church to church in several cities to see these magnificent pasos up close, admiring the detail and careful handiwork of the cofradias. We had the chance to chat with one gentleman, Jamie, who is not only a member of the brotherhood at the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalene in Sevilla, but also one of the bearers, called costaleros, who carry the massive pasos for up to six hours through Sevilla’s cobbled streets. He told us some pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds and take between 35 to 45 men to carry. Only women carry the paso of the Holy Mother in some parishes, as we saw in several processions in Salamanca last Easter.
Pasos, like this one at the Monastery of San Juan do los Reyes in Toledo, are on display in churches during Holy week. Visiting different parishes gives you the chance to admire the careful craftsmanship that goes into these spectacular floats up close.
Shortly before a procession begins, the sidewalks and streets swell with families who seem to appear from nowhere and a carnival-like atmosphere prevails. There are street vendors selling sweets and snacks, drinks, balloons, tiny penitent figures and other souvenirs. Soon, the incense smoke thickens, music starts, and the excitement in the air is palpable. Fathers hoist their young children onto their shoulders, and everyone crowds closer and often right into the street where the procession will pass. Some processions have only drummers; most have full marching bands, and sometimes there is singing. Depending on the size and importance of a brotherhood, parish, and the day in Holy Week, there can be numerous pasos in a single procession.
People fill the streets and vendors with balloons, toys, sweets and drinks create a carnival-like atmosphere before and after Semana Santa processions.
Embroidered banners announce the cofradias; a priest with a silver cross leads children carrying incense or lanterns. Nazarenos in their colored robes, faces covered by capuz or hoods, and hats called capirote pointing high to the heavens, follow. These are the penitents. There are also Mujeres de la Mantilla, ladies dressed all in black from their lacey veils to their shoes, silently processing, carrying candles and rosary beads. Everywhere in Spain, men, women and children march slowly through the streets during Semana Santa’s processions, each with a role to play in this ancient ritual.
Young, old, believers or not, everyone crowds onto Spanish streets, like this one in Granada, to watch the traditional processions that mark Semana Santa.
It is magical and emotional to be a part of this. Many people cry silently with tears streaming down their faces, some sob violently, others cheer and clap, or watch quietly as the exquisite pasos go by, but you will not see a blank expression. These processions touch people at the most visceral level. Finally, the pasos will re-enter the church they left from hours before and the streets empty almost as quickly as they filled.
The Senora Delarosa represents Christ’s grieving mother, the Virgin Mary. These beautiful sculptures are bedecked in jewels and exquisite garments, and surrounded with fresh flowers and candles. They usually follow the other pasos in Holy Week processions.
Every city we visited during this sacred time of year has procession routes and schedules available online and/or in print. Look for the booklets in cafes, shops and bars. This is valuable information for visitors to either find or avoid the processions. Be aware of street closures. Whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic and even passing on foot is extremely difficult, especially during the most important processions—like on Good Friday. Sevilla, Toledo, Malaga and other cities have Semana Santa apps, updated annually, you can download on your iPhone.
The Risen Christ greets onlookers from this paso at an Easter Sunday procession approaching Salamanca’s Cathedral.
We have been fortunate to celebrate Semana Santa and Easter Sunday in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, Toledo, and Salamanca. Each city offered a unique and beautiful experience. No matter which region you visit, Semana Santa is an incredible time to be in Spain. It’s not too soon to begin planning for next year!
I first learned about Noah Purifoy’s wondrous Outdoor Desert Museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park during the COVID pandemic. Museums, and most cultural outlets, were closed in Southern California where I live, and pretty much everywhere else, too. When I learned about an outdoor museum close to the town of Joshua Tree, I knew we had to go!
Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.
After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.
The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.
Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.
Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.
Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures. Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.
I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.
1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.
Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.
Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored. Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.
A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.
Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.
Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.
Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in SocialInstitutions program he initiated.
This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things. Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.
No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.
Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.
From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.
Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.
Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.
From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.
The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.
Admission is free but donations are welcome.
Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. These eminent museums have long since reopened their doors, but visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit the Noah Purifoy Foundation for more information.
As a regular visitor to the Palm Desert area, I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage. During Modernism Week I found out. Among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 10-day tribute to Midcentury Modernism were tours of Sunnylands, the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife, Lee.
The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.
The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is a fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones. It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front door of the historic main house opens onto the spectacular great room with its pink marble floors, prolific planting, outstanding art collection (Rodin’s Eve surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium), exquisite furnishings, and panoramic desert views.
Art Price’s Birds of Welcome, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greets visitors to Sunnylands.
Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate. You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos.
The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
The color-themed guest rooms (hint-Mrs. Annenberg’s favorite colors were yellow, pink and green), stunning dining room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour. Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters, which were modified somewhat by Mrs. Annenberg after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94.
Comfortable guest rooms were color-themed and included Mrs. Annenberg’s favorites– yellow, green and pink. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood. She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.
The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions. Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.
This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.
The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012. That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.
Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. The private nine-hole golf course enjoyed by celebrities and world leaders is in the distance.
While Sunnylands served as the winter home of the Annenbergs, it was also designed to function as a private and intimate retreat for luminaries and world leaders. The guest list is as impressive as the property. Eight U.S. Presidents were among the notable visitors the Annenbergs welcomed to Sunnylands. Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.
President and Mrs. Reagan were good friends of the Annenbergs and frequent visitors to Sunnylands. Mr. Reagan was one of eight U.S. Presidents to have enjoyed their hospitality. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Ronald Reagan, a good friend of the Annenbergs, was a frequent guest as President, and earlier, when he served as Governor of California. Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years. Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice– Jelly Belly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands. Fun fact—the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!
The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite. Jellybeans were always on hand–color coordinated to match the room, of course. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
Richard Nixon, who was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent guest before, during and after his presidency, spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.
George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided. President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate and preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the lake for early morning angling.
President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.
Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands. President Obama was a three-time visitor, meeting with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate, which resulted in the “Sunnylands Declaration.”
President Obama and Chinese President Xi Jinping were photographed strolling near the reflection pool shown here.
Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE) so it’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.
U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands.
It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party. Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list. Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display throughout the home.
All tours except the Open Air Experience must be booked in advance, online.
The historic main house can be visited only by guided tour, which must be booked online, typically one month in advance. Because access is limited, the Historic House Tour slots fill quickly. Plan ahead! This is the only tour that provides access to the home. Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking—there is no sitting down and children under 10 are not permitted. Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house.
Channel your inner Hollywood icon and imagine yourself preparing for a dip in the pool with some of the Annenbergs’ famous friends like Frank Sinatra, who was married at the estate.
There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more. The Foundation’s commitment to sustainability and the steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are also discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens and unlike the other tours, does not require prior reservations.
Birding tours on the Estate are also available and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.
The Sunnylands Center and Gardens are open to the public free of charge.
There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly. Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.
Enjoy the gardens while having a snack or light meal at the cafe.
Sunnylands Center and Gardens are family-friendly, though the tours do have age limits.
There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack, which can be enjoyed indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden. On a recent visit, families were playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.
Meandering paths take visitors through the Sunnylands Gardens featuring more than 70 native and drought-tolerant species.
The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked for the enjoyment of amateur botanists.
Visitors can walk the labyrinth and enjoy quiet meditation at Sunnylands Gardens.
Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns. The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here. Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.
Palm Springs. Just the thought conjures up sunny skies, swimming pools, palm trees—a picture perfect place to relax and enjoy the desert climate, perhaps with a cocktail in hand.
Palm Springs is also a mecca for midcentury modern architecture, design and style. From February 13-23, 2025, the city will welcome Mid Mod fans for Modernism Week’s 20th anniversary! Naturally, I’ll be writing an update, but in the meantime, here’s a story I wrote a few years ago about this celebration of all things midcentury:
Palm Springs shifts into high gear each February, as Midcentury Modern fans from across the globe descend on this laid-back desert community for the 11-day festival called Modernism Week. In 2020, just weeks before the pandemic shutdown hit, 162,000 attendees came to enjoy midcentury fun in the sun. I was one of them.
Bus tours, walking tours, bike tours, architectural tours, garden tours and my favorite– home tours– are all part of the fun at Modernism Week.
Modernism Week offers more than 350 events including signature home tours, films, lectures, fashion shows, bus tours, bike tours, walking tours, garden tours, parties, a vintage trailer show, art exhibitions, vintage car show, design expo, cooking demonstrations, concerts—all focused on midcentury modern design, architecture, art, and culture. Here’s a look at some of the featured homes from past Modernism Week festivals:
The collection of framed artwork above represents popular midcentury swimming pool shapes. The owl-themed wall paper in the bar area is also very much on brand in this 2020 Modernism Week featured home. This room has midcentury style in spades, from the Hockney print to the light fixture to the room divider!This midcentury office was so much fun, I’m using it as my Zoom background.Wallpaper was an important design element in the classic midcentury home. This room shows how bold wallpaper keeps the look fresh.This shagalicious sitting area screams 1960s… and that wall paper!
Part of the fun of home tours is meeting the architects, designers and the home owners who live in these wonderful spaces. Kevin and Howard are designers and the homeowners here.
Lots of desert homes have courtyards featuring brise soleil– French for “sun breaker” –to let the air in but keep the sun out. You’ll see some elaborate examples from the double decker bus tours, as well as on home tours.
As if all those tours, presentations and special events weren’t enough, last year there were opportunities to meet with landscape architects (including my friend Amelia Lima, an award- winning landscape architect), authors, designers and other experts during the event–sometimes one-on-one to help you solve your design problems indoors and out. There was even a chance for some retail therapy at the annual vintage yard sale. There’s truly something for everyone who loves the mid-century aesthetic at Modernism Week!
The always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo is a highlight for many at Modernism Week.
Shopping for vintage decor as well as brand new pieces like this cork furniture by Eugene Stotzfus is all part of the fun at the Modernism Show and Sale.
In addition to all those tours and talks, demonstrations and presentations, there are parties!
They were just putting the festive finishing touches on this home, by Christopher Kennedy, when we arrived. It’s fun to experience featured show homes in a relaxed and convivial setting.
I usually start my day at CAMP – Modernism Week’s ‘Community and Meeting Place’ and defacto headquarters for tours and events.
I like to start my day with a cup of Koffi at CAMP! Koffi has been providing complimentary coffee and tea to attendees since I’ve been coming to Modernism Week.
At CAMP, you’ll find information, complimentary coffee, a snack bar, pop-up bookstore and shop, cooking demonstrations, and swoon worthy sponsor displays from companies like Ferguson Kitchen, Bath & Lighting Gallery, Corian Design, JennAir, and Brizo. Many nights CAMP hosted live music by the Dreamboats and a happy hour. It was a great place to take a break, grab a bite and mingle.
Meet my new friends. Dressed to impress for Modernism Week, they’re here from Calgary to enjoy live music by the Dreamboats and Happy Hour at CAMP.
CAMP serves as “headquarters” for Modernism Week. Step inside for information, tickets, book and gift shop, coffee, snack bar, demonstrations and more.
Due to the ongoing pandemic and local and state requirements, Modernism Week will be different this year. The 2021 celebration will actually be two events. Organizers have announced that this year’s celebration will include an all-virtual program for the entire month of February and in person events scheduled for April 8-18.
The Modernism Week Online Experience from Feb. 1 – 28, 2021 will feature more than 20 video programs available for on demand streaming throughout the month. The April 8-18 festival in Palm Springs will include in-person events, including home and garden tours, as well as additional virtual experiences. Please visit modernismweek.com for program updates.
Charles Phoenix, the always popular midcentury modern expert and author, took us on a fabulous virtual trip to some of Palm Springs most iconic homes during October Preview Week. Photo courtesy Modernism Week.
I sampled Modernism Week’s first virtual offering during the October Preview Week event which was held all online due to Covid-19. I took a wildly entertaining virtual “ride” with Charles Phoenix, the cheeky midcentury expert and author who typically leads sold- out bus tours during Modernism Week.
Elvis Presley and his bride Priscilla spent their honeymoon at this Palm Springs Swiss Miss -style home. Modernism Week’s virtual tour takes you inside where you’ll get a peek at things like the circular electric range– high style for the times!
Mr. Phoenix is a hoot, to say the least, and led a fast- paced and informative trip around Palm Springs in his vintage ride. I “visited” numerous midcentury icons including Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s Swiss Miss honeymoon hideaway and Richard Neutra’s Kaufmann House with Mr. Phoenix and loved every minute of it.
I’d seen the exterior of the Richard Neutra- designed Kaufmann House on other Modernism Week tours, but the virtual visit took viewers inside this home and many others.
I also took virtual tours of the stunning SkyFall House—yes, you might expect Mr. Bond to arrive via parachute over the pool—the fabulous Pierre Cardin House with a 1972 special Cardin edition AMC Javelin in the garage, the Edris House with its Dixiecup lighting, and the home noted midcentury architect Donald Wexler designed for his own family, along with other historic area dwellings– all thanks to a series of videos created especially for Modernism Week. I’m looking forward to February’s slate of programs!
While the virtual programming was entertaining and informative, I’m excited about the April 2021 in person programming. Organizers have announced that all activities and events are designed to meet social distancing and safety protocols per California public health requirements.
Modernism Week’s 2020 featured homes were very special, particularly properties like the Miles Bates Wave House designed by Walter S. White.
The iconic Wave House, named for its curvilinear roof, was designed by Walter S. White for Miles Bates in 1955. The building, which had fallen into disrepair and was on the auction block when we saw it in 2018, was open for touring during Modernism Week 2020. The transformation was stunning!
Here’s what Miles Bate’s Wave House looked like when we first saw it in 2018. The inside was even sadder than the exterior. Happily it was purchased and restored to its former glory by LA’s Stayner Architects. Beginning summer 2021, it will be available for events and overnight stay rentals.
Here’s a look at the cozy kitchen and living area of the Wave House, now beautifully restored.
The upcoming April events will feature signature home tours, architectural walking tours, an outdoor garden tour, a number of talks and special events, plus the always popular Modernism Show & Sale and Modern Design Expo.
I am very excited about the return of in person home tours in April. This stunning “Mesa Modern” was a featured home in 2020.
Indoor/outdoor living is a hallmark of midcentury modern architecture. This home showcases the concept brilliantly!
Visits to Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms and the William Holden Estate are part of the 2021 program, as are outdoor neighborhood tours in Palm Springs, Rancho Mirage and Indian Wells; tours of the Lautner Compound; fashion events; and a vintage automobile exhibition.
Visits to historic homes like the O’Donnell House, are also a part of Modernism Week activities. I toured Ojo Del Desierto, or Eye of the Desert, as Thomas O’Donnell called his home, in 2020.
One of the O’Donnell House bedrooms features head and footboards carved with the iconic bell that marked California’s Camino Real established by Junipero Serra during the Mission period. The home is available for rentals and events.
This year there will be two outdoor tours of Sunnylands, one of my favorite places to visit in the desert and a discovery I made during Modernism Week a few years ago. There will be a shuttle tour of the exceptional landscaping around the estate and a historic walking tour of the expansive grounds.
I first discovered Sunnylands during Modernism Week several years ago and have returned to this enchanting place many times since.
The former home of media mogul Walter and Lenore Annenberg, this midcentury masterpiece has hosted eight US presidents (two of whom were close friends of the Annenbergs), royalty and international leaders, and continues to play a role in promoting world peace under the auspices of the Sunnylands Trust.
Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. There will be two outdoor tours offered during Modernism Week 2021.
When indoor tours resume, take one! You have to see the Reagan’s favorite bedroom where Mrs. Annenberg made sure to have plenty of the former President’s preferred snack—Jellybelly jelly beans that just happen to coordinate with the bed linens! You can read and see more about this desert treasure here.
Interior tours of Sunnylands are not available now due to the pandemic, but we highly recommend you take one when they return. Photography is not permitted inside the home. This image is courtesy of Sunnylands.
There are plenty of free and low-cost activities during Modernism Week. Some of the best values are the fascinating presentations given by experts in design, architecture, midcentury culture and style, and landscape design. Some of these cost as little as $10.
Some of Modernism Week’s presentations take place at the nearby Palm Springs Art Museum, like this one about Eero Saarinen.
Textile designer and social “disrupter” Marguerita Mergentime was the subject of another fascinating presentation during Modernism Week 2020.
Ticket sales support an ongoing scholarship program for Coachella Valley students embarking on an education in architecture and design. Attendees contribute to a worthwhile cause while enjoying all things midcentury modern. For more information and tickets visit Modernism Week 2021.
If “Music is the language of the soul,” the Musical Instrument Museum speaks it fluently. The MIM, as it’s known, is home to more than 8,000 musical instruments from every country on the planet and calls itself the world’s only global music museum.
Musical instruments from every country on earth are displayed at the MIM, sometimes along with ceremonial costumes, like this one from the Mongol people of Ulaanbaatar.
Wonder what a theremin sounds like or even what it is? Put on your headset and watch and listen as virtuoso Clara Rockmore brings this custom-built instrument to life, moving her hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume. You’ll learn the history behind the instrument, the artist, and even see what she wore as she toured the USA with major symphonic orchestras in the 1930s.
I’d never heard of a theremin before my visit to the MIM! Now I’ve had the chance to see, hear and even play one!
The MIM’s interactive technology instantly syncs your headset to any video screen you stand before, allowing guests to see, hear and experience instruments we may never have even heard of, let alone seen and heard being played!
Move your hands between two antennae to control pitch and volume on the theremin. There’s one in the Experience Gallery for visitors to try!
Throughout the museum, thousands of instruments– historic, rare and sometimes common place– are displayed along with clothing, costumes, cultural artifacts, maps, and most importantly, information that gives perspective to the ceremonies, rituals and the role in everyday life the instruments play. The videos that accompany each exhibition take visitors on a musical journey to countries and cultures around the world and sometimes, back in time.
Headphones sync automatically with videos as you walk through the museum.Watch and listen as Kukeri- costumed dancers chase away evil spirits with their jangling bells in Bulgaria.Visit Ireland and hear the Chieftains, the country’s “Musical Ambassadors,” perform traditional Irish music.
We started our visit at the MIM’s special exhibition, Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments. Rare, historically significant and stunningly beautiful instruments from around the world, spanning thousands of years of musical history, are on display along with videos that allow you to hear these incredible instruments being played.
Where else will you see and hear an ancient Greek trumpet that may be the only one of its kind still in existence?
Nowhere else will you experience the sounds and sight of a Salpinx, an ancient Greek trumpet (300 BCE-200 CE) believed to be the only one of its kind still in existence! You’ll see and hear renowned musician Jake Shimabakuro play a Kumu tenor ukulele handcrafted of Koa wood, mahogany, mother-of pearl, ebony, turquoise, abalone and onyx, built specifically for him. View fragments of a 4,500-year-old lyre from Ur, Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq), along with the oldest intact guitar on earth, and Jimi Hendrix’s iconic Black Widow guitar.
The oldest intact guitar in the world is at the MIM along with Jimi Hendrix’s famous Black Widow, shown below.Anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic are among the rare instruments in the Treasures exhibition and are a part of the MIM’s permanent collection.
The collection includes a 1584 harpsichord from Belgium made from wood, bird quill, iron, felt, paper and paint, and anthropomorphic harps from the Ngandi people of the Central African Republic (1850-1875). There are fiddles, mandolins, drums, bells, lutes, and flutes– some shown being played by world-class musicians. In the center of it all is a spectacular bronze-gilded grand piano built by the Erard Company in Paris for the 1889 Exposition Universelle, where the Eiffel Tower was introduced to the world.
This splendid piano was unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris at the same time as the Eiffel Tower.
Next door to Treasures, the Artist Gallery features musicians from nearly every genre you can think of from hip hop to country. Missed Woodstock? The MIM has it covered with instruments, costumes, memorabilia and video of that epic event thanks to donations by people who performed there including Carlos Santana, Joan Baez and John Sebastian.
Memorabilia, musical instruments and concert performances by numerous artists who played the iconic festival help capture the spirit of Woodstock.I saw the legendary drummer performing at New York City’s Rainbow Room many years ago though I don’t know if Buddy was playing this particular set of drums.
The white, marine pearl Swingerland drum set the legendary Buddy Rich played many times on The Tonight Show hosted by Johnny Carson (also a drummer by the way) is here. So is the Steinway piano John Lennon composed Imagine on and the guitar Eric Clapton used to record Layla. Country music fans will find the Chet Atkin’s Signature electric archtop guitar donated by Duane Eddy and hear Glen Campbell strumming, singing and playing the bagpipes, via video at the MIM.
Photos, video, drums, even Tito Puente’s dazzling jacket are here along with one of the “Queen of Salsa” Celia Cruz’s gorgeous stage dresses and maracas. Cruz, a five-time Grammy -award winner sometimes performed and recorded with Puente.
Elvis Presley, Dick Dale, Black Eyed Peas, Johnny Cash and Maroon 5 are just a few of the artists sharing the spotlight in this enormous gallery which rotates its 40 exhibitions to include music icons from around the world.
The King is among the legendary performers in the Artists Gallery, of course!
In the Mechanical Music Gallery, the MIM has treasures ranging from intricate music boxes to player pianos to my personal favorite, the orchestrion named Apollonia. Built in 1926 in Antwerp, she is 25 feet wide, seven feet tall and weighs two tons. After retiring from a career touring the dance halls of Europe, Apollonia was refurbished in 1950 and found her way to the USA. Now she entertains MIM’s visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. How extraordinary to experience the same music played on identical instruments audiences enjoyed nearly one hundred years ago!
Apollonian entertains visitors daily at noon and 3 p.m. Don’t miss a chance to hear this performance!Intricate music boxes, dancing puppets, player pianos and more fill the Mechanical Music Gallery.
Upstairs, in the Geographic Galleries, you’ll tour the world through music—the bridge that connects us all. Start in Africa, where human civilization began, and wind your way through the continent from Angola to Zimbabwe.
Start your journey in Africa, where human civilization began and prepared to be amazed at the sheer variety of instruments played on that continent.
Stunning stringed instruments, drums, Nigerian bronze bells from the eighth century, an enormous 18- key xylophone from Ghana, Ngoni lutes from Mali, and more held our attention as we traveled from country to country learning about cultures, languages and the music people make a world away from our home. Move on to the Middle East then continue your tour through Asia.
In 17th century Japan, displaced Samuri warriors often became Komuso monks, wandering the countryside playing the shakuhachi. Wearing a basket over their head signified detachment from the material world.Take a musical journey through every country in the world at the MIM. Just about every instrument imaginable– is here in one gallery or another!No area of the globe is left unexplored -even instruments from the subarctic are here!
Cross the seas to Oceania and Latin America. Experience Europe’s musical treasures–opera, ballet and orchestral instruments and performances– and finally, explore genres from country to classical to jazz and even marching band music in North America. Who knew Elkhart, Indiana played such a significant role in our musical history?
This 48K Grand Jumbo sousaphone (left) was manufactured in Elkhart, IN, the home of most American band instrument companies. Master engraver Julian Stenberg created this for a nationwide promotional tour for the C.G. Conn company’s 50th anniversary.
Personally, I was astounded to see how musical instruments traveled and evolved across borders and through time. We saw bagpipes in one form or another, made from materials ranging from fabric to animal skin, not only from Scotland, but also Tunisia, Croatia, Slovakia, France, Spain, Romania and Sweden.
Above are bagpipes from Tulum, Turkey while the instrument below is from the Iranianprovince of Hormozgan.
Though closely associated with the Scottish Highlands, bagpipes have been around for 2,000 years and may have originated in Turkey, according to the MIM.
Bagpipes may have originated in Turkey more than 2,000 years ago.This display shows wind, string and percussion instruments from Turkey’s countryside and urban areas.
Don’t leave the MIM before stopping in the Experience Gallery where visitors of all ages are not only invited but encouraged to make their own kind of music.
The gamelan shown here is displayed in the Geographic Galleries but there is also a gamelan available for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery. Give it a try!Drums are found in every country. These Turkish kettle drums from the 1920’s are made from copper covered in camel skin and are part of the Treasures exhibit. There’s a huge communal drum for visitors to play in the Experience Gallery.
Bang a gong, play a zither, try your hand at the theremin or Javanese gamelan. Join your friends around the communal drum and make a joyful noise! Express your own ‘Language of the Soul”—after all, that’s what this magnificent museum is all about. Learn more at mim.org.
Note: Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments was a special exhibition that has closed since I originally posted this article, but the majority of the rare instruments highlighted in the exhibit are part of MIM’s permanent collection and can still be seen and experienced at the museum.
The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.
There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.
Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belemwas the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.
The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.
Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimosand its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.
St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.
The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.
Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.
Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.
We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.
Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.
Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.
The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.
Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.
This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.
The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.
After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.
This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.
In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.
You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…
Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.
This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!
Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.
If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.
We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.
Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.
We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.
The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.
The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.
Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.
This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!
Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.
When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.
We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.
The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.
Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.
Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.
The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.
The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.
Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.
There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.
On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!
Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.
Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.
We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!
