Travel Tips

Oregon’s Rugged Coast is Spectacular in Springtime

Take a deep breath. On Oregon’s wild Central Coast the air is an intoxicating combination of briny ocean and the refreshing scent of the pines that line the craggy shoreline. In early Spring there are no crowds.

There also aren’t any luxury hotels or fancy restaurants, but the natural beauty of the place draws us back with its tranquility, miles of pristine beaches, wooded hiking trails, a lighthouse or two, and small towns that are somewhere between charming and touristy. So what is there to do? Let’s start with the whales.

*Gray whales put on an impressive show off Oregon’s Central Coast in early Spring.*

Whale Watching

The gray whales begin their 10,000-mile migration between Baja California and the Bering Sea in the late winter months and March is prime viewing season on Oregon’s Central Coast. Weighing in at about 35 tons and averaging around 45 feet in length, thousands of gray whales, 20,000 of them according to some sources, pass by Oregon’s coastal communities in early spring through June.

*Some estimates have 20,000 gray whales passing Oregon’s coastal communities during their annual migration.*

It’s exhilarating to see these amazing animals breach and spy hop so close to shore. We learned that spy hopping is when whales raise their heads vertically out of the water to get a better sense of their surroundings. They often do this when tour boats are nearby. Maybe they like to see us as much as we enjoy watching them.

*Boiler Bay is a prime spot for whale watching.*

Depoe Bay, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Oregon, and nearby Boiler Bay are premium locations for catching the show these leviathans put on at this time of year.

*Bring your binoculars and see how many species of whale, dolphins and porpoises you can spot.*

Besides gray whales, marine life aficionados with a sharp eye or a good pair of binoculars may spot orcas, sperm whales, dolphins, porpoises, and even blue whales cavorting in the waves.

*Stop by the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center.*

World’s Smallest Harbor

Make the Depoe Bay Whale Watching Center your first stop. When we visited we saw plenty of whales and sea life from both the outdoor and indoor viewing platforms. It was great to come in out of the rain and still watch the whales go by. Helpful staff told us that during the busy summer months, around 100 of these majestic creatures live in the waters right off Depoe Bay.

*The Whale Watching Center has indoor and outdoor viewing platforms and a terrific location for spotting these leviathans of the deep.*

*Rangers and volunteers are on hand to answer questions about marine life, seabirds and the region’s many scenic areas.*

Volunteers can usually be found at coastal sites marked by Whale Watching Spoken Here signs, charting the whales’ migration and noting the numbers of sea mammals and birds spotted during their watch. Check out whale watching videos at oregonstateparks .org.

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse

There’s something romantic about lighthouses and this one is particularly captivating. Perched 162 feet above the churning sea, the Yaquina Head lighthouse is visible from miles away. Standing a majestic 93 feet tall, Oregon’s tallest lighthouse has been guiding mariners to safety since August 20, 1863.

*The rugged beauty of the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area draws 400,00 visitors annually.*

Constructed of 370,000 bricks imported from San Francisco, the second oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast shines its warning beacon from its original 400 lb. Fresnel lens. The lens, then a technical marvel, was built in Paris and transported through the Panama Canal to what was then called Cape Foulweather—for good reasons.

Many ships foundered on the rocky shoals off Yaquina Head before the lighthouse was operational. Look for the memorial to those lost at sea at the base of the lighthouse.

*The path between the lighthouse and Interpretive Center boasts beautiful vistas and educational information.*

Stop by the Interpretive Center before hiking down the path to the lighthouse and tidal pools. There is a wealth of information and knowledgeable rangers available to help you make the most of your visit.

*To make the most of your visit make the Interpretive Center your first stop. Admission to the center is free but there is a fee to enter the park.*

*Films, exhibits, displays and helpful staff provide a wealth of information about the lighthouse and the area’s history.*

Lighthouse Life

After viewing the short films, photographs, diaries and displays that tell the story of the Yaquina Head lighthouse and the people who kept it running for more than 100 years, it’s not hard to imagine light keepers going up and down the lighthouse’s 114 steps several times a day carrying 20 lb. buckets of tallow in each hand to keep the lamp lit.

Instructions circa 1902 warn that the light must be kept burning at all times and at all costs. Inspectors could arrive unannounced, at any time day or night; to be sure the mandate was kept. Life could be hard and lonely. It wasn’t until 1966 that Yaquina Head’s light was automated and light keepers were no longer needed.

*Light keepers climbed these 114 steps several times daily. During summer months ranger-led tours allow visitors to follow in their footsteps.*

*A replica of the 400 lb. Fresnel lens demonstrates how the light was constructed and operates.*

Marine Life

There are also films and exhibits about the vibrant marine life and seabirds visitors may encounter. In addition to peregrine falcons, pelagic and double-tufted cormorants, tufted puffins, and storm petrels, Yaquina Head hosts one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest colonies of the common murre, a seabird that tends to gather in large groups and float noisily around. We heard them long before we saw them but what a sight it was!

Common murres are among the many seabirds that call Yaquina Head home. A large colony of the noisy birds floats just right of the rocks in this photo.

Today, more than 400,000 visitors come annually to see the lighthouse and grounds, explore Cobble Beach and the tide pools, watch for whales and dolphins, enjoy the seabirds and visit the interpretive Center. Visitors are free to explore the 100-acre natural area on their own and during summer months, when ranger-guided tours are available, it’s possible to go inside the lighthouse.

Take a hike up the hill behind the former vegetable gardens for fantastic views of the lighthouse and the breathtaking coastline or climb down the wooden stairway to the beach to see anemones and other sea life up close. Or do both, as we did.

*Visitors can explore Yaquina Head’s 100-acres at their own pace.*

Those with impaired mobility may want to drive to the lighthouse. All areas of the Interpretive Center are accessible.

Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center

*Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd Newport’s busy harbor.*

Curiosity and shipwrecks drew us to the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center, a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum. Walking past Bay Boulevard’s touristy shops across from Newport’s bustling harbor, we saw signs for the museum and were intrigued.

*Newport is home to the largest commercial fleet in Oregon.*

Chippendale dancers, off-track betting enthusiasts and night clubbers frequented this once stately home before a careful eight-year renovation transformed the Smuggler’s Inn into the Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center. Open since 2013, the museum has a wealth of information on the area’s history, the role of the fishing industry in the region’s growth and the many shipwrecks that have been documented along the rugged Oregon coastline since 1852. Maps, photographs, exhibits and helpful docents bring the past to life here.

*Exhibits explore the fishing industry’s impact on the region’s growth and development.*

*Visitors interested in shipwrecks, sea lore and maritime history will find the museum fascinating.*

Many of items in the museum’s collections were donated by the local community– from maritime gear to artifacts recovered from shipwrecks. Newport’s sister city, Mombetsu, sent the colorful Japanese fishing flags that fly above the galleries. They are meant to bring luck to the local fishing fleet and are a gesture of good will between the cities. Be sure to step out onto the roof terrace and enjoy the expansive views before you leave.

The Burrows House

Burrows House, also a Lincoln County Historical Society Museum, is just a five- minute drive away. The Victorian house began life as a private home, and was used as a boarding house and finally a funeral parlor before becoming part of the museum. Touring the modest dwelling, which was built in 1895, visitors get a good sense of what life was like for Newport residents in the 19^th and early 20^th century. Don’t miss the eight-foot long toothpick model of the Yaquina Bay Bridge.

*Clothing, household goods and memorabilia paint a vivid picture of life here in the late 1800s.*

*This eight-foot replica of the Newport Bridge is constructed entirely from wooden toothpicks.*

Hatfield Marine Science Center

Looking for family fun and the chance to spend quality time with an octopus? Oregon State University’s Hatfield Marine Center is just across the bridge from Newport’s busy commercial harbor and definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have young ones in tow. We stopped by on a rainy day and it was easy to see why more than 150,000 people a year are drawn to the dynamic marine education center.

Hatfield’s aquatic exhibits bring out a sense
of wonder in visitors of all ages.

*Touch tanks and interactive exhibits entertain and educate visitors.*

The Visitors Center’s aquatic animal exhibits, hands-on experiences, and interactive displays make learning fun. The Center’s resident octopus is a big draw. Visitors can watch him “hunt” for his food, play with his toys and explore his environment. Hatfield has an Octocam, so even after returning home, fans can keep tabs on the popular cephalopod.

Go Explore

Oregon’s Central Coast has so many beaches, trails, natural wonders and small towns to discover that you can be as busy as you like.

Devil’s Punchbowl

Take a drive to Devil’s Punchbowl and watch the swirling sea churning up inside the hollow rock formation. Stop in to Cliffside Coffee & Sweets and get an ice cream cone or chocolates while you’re there.

*Pristine beaches, trails and parks along Oregon’s Central Coast await. Pack a picnic and go explore!*

*Join the agate hunters on Gleneden Beach at low tide.*

Tsunami safety instructions are posted on this chunk of harbor that washed up in Newport after crossing the Pacific from Japan. Now it’s part of the bayfront along with shops, tourist attractions and restaurants you can enjoy.

Finders Keepers

Pack a picnic and head over to Fogerty Creek. Check out the tide pools. Hunt for agates during low tide on Gleneden Beach. Head to Lincoln City and search for the “finders keepers” glass floats or make your own at Lincoln City Glass Center.

Nye Beach

Stroll through historic Nye Beach for a little retail therapy and enjoy the sandy beach there. Or just sit and watch for whales.

*It’s easy to while away a sunny Spring afternoon just sitting and watching for whales.*

If You Go

Unless you live within driving distance, fly into Portland (PDX), rent a car and drive the 2-1/2 hours to the coast. It’s a scenic drive once you’re past the suburban areas.

There are a few hotels and a lot of rentals and timeshares along Oregon’s Central Coast. We rent a fully- equipped condo and need provisions to make breakfast and picnic lunches when weather allows. Chester’s, a mid-sized grocery between Gleneden Beach and Depoe Bay, has a good selection and all the necessities, plus a video rental on-site. Newport and Lincoln City—the two largest towns in this area– have the chain stores and more shopping options.

Where to Eat

As much as I love to cook, I also like a good dinner (or lunch) out. You can’t go wrong with these:

Depoe Bay

Tidal Raves Seafood Grill –We spotted nine whales during one dinner at this Depoe Bay mainstay! Portions are generous and full meals include soup or salad so you can probably skip the appetizer.

*Dinner specials, like this sturgeon don’t disappoint.*

Fish dishes are fresh and delicious– try the halibut or the BBQ shrimp for something a little different. Nightly specials have never disappointed and the steaks are good, too. This place is extremely popular with locals and visitors. Make a reservation.

Gleneden Beach

Side Door Café– There are no ocean views, but there is plenty of ambiance at this local Gleneden Beach favorite. The food is hands down delicious and that’s what keeps people coming back for more.

*We’ll take the salmon or halibut any way the kitchen is preparing them.*

*Save room for the house made desserts. They’re divine!*

Try the Dungeness crab cakes, or the salmon or halibut – however the kitchen is preparing them. The hazelnut crusted pork and rack of lamb are both outstanding. Save room for the homemade desserts! Reservations are essential.

Newport

Local Ocean– It’s all about the fresh fish here–right off the boats from Newport’s busy commercial harbor just across the street.

*Fresh fish, often from the fishing boats across the street, make this our Newport favorite.*

*The fish and chips are huge, crispy and delicious.*

*The retail market at Local Ocean has great options for fresh, local fish.*

We like the crab cakes, fish and chips, fish tacos, albacore tuna wrap and whatever the daily special is. The burgers are good, too. There are terrific harbor views from the upstairs dining area and bar. Local Ocean has a retail seafood market on the ground floor so you can bring home today’s catch, too.

Gleneden Breakfast

Red Roof Inn— Follow your nose to this Gleneden favorite. The mouthwatering aroma of fresh baked goods and strong coffee kept us coming back day after day.

*Everything here is baked from scratch early in the morning.*

*Robert just took this Irish soda bread out of the oven.*

The friendly staff will make you feel like a local and their sandwiches are amazing. Open for breakfast and lunch only.

Lincoln City

Kyllos- Big and busy, this Lincoln City restaurant is right on the water and serves continually from lunch on.

*We like Happy Hour at Kyllos. The Dungeness crab is a tasty treat.*

If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, the views are spectacular. Happy hour, or lunch in the bar, is the budget- friendly way to go. Try the kale salad and fish tacos.

This is just a sampling of the fun and food that await on Oregon’s beautiful Central Coast. Add it to your list of Springtime get-aways! Or summer get-aways, fall get-aways… Find more Oregon fun here.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker.

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This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

Note: This article has been updated March 30, 2026.

Liguria: The Coastal Magic of Camogli, Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline. Think stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

***Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.***

Ligurian Coast

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. Though we’d gotten suggestions from La Spezia to Santa Margherita Ligure, we settled on Camogli.

Midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the exceedingly popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns, Camogli made sense as a base from which to explore this stretch of Italy’s coastline.

We planned to drive to the Ligurian Coast from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

Stuck

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels. The Italians call them galleries. We quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

I needed that distraction for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Find your accommodations here!

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

*Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool.*

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant, and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

Dinner With a View

We had phoned ahead from the tunnel, and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. After admiring the sea view, we tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable. Stuffed, we headed upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

***The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.***

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

***You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.***

***These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.***

Famous Fish Fry

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!

The early festivals used smaller cookware, but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. In 2025, they served three tons of fish fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil. In all, volunteers prepared 30,000 portions. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

The festival is free but hungry attendees are asked for a 6 Euro charitable donation. The fish fry is in the Guiness Book of World Records as the largest in the world.

Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.

Around Town

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare. It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

*You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!*

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that.

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

Camogli has a scenic harbor area and basilica to explore. The popular public beach is perfect for relaxing in the sunshine. Bring aqua socks. Beaches in this area are covered in stones, not sand.

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

Camogli basilica looms over the public beach — *Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

A Visit to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso

*The Abbey at San Fruttuoso has art and antiquities and is the final resting place for the prominent Doria family.*

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.*

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Pack your aqua socks. Many beaches in Liguria are covered with stones rather than sand. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet.

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach. Both were busy but we didn’t eat at either. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

*The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.*

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre: Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns.

It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess.

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

Riomaggiore was an exercise in patience and ours wore thin quickly. We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, until we couldn’t wait anymore. The highly touted charms of Riomaggiore were lost on us. We got on a train heading north to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised us to get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south.

On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants, and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were plenty of tourists, which we expected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden we had planned to visit was closed. We’d checked the website for Museo del Parco but that’s the way things are here sometimes.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake.

This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” He didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. When I showed the conductor our tickets, he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

*Wait until the exact time your train is due to board or you could inadvertently wind up in Genoa, like we did!*

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early. Ever.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Visit Sunnylands: A Midcentury Masterpiece

As a regular visitor to the Palm Desert area, I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage. During Modernism Week I found out.

Tours of Sunnylands were among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 10-day celebration of all things midcentury Modern. I couldn’t resist a visit to the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife.

The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Some History

Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.

The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is the fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones. It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front door of the historic main house opens onto the spectacular great room. Pink marble floors, prolific plantings, and an outstanding art collection await visitors. Rodin’s Eve, surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads, will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium. There are exquisite midcentury furnishings and stunning panoramic desert views.

*Art Price’s **Birds of Welcome**, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greets visitors to Sunnylands.*

Inside Sunnylands

Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate. You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos.

The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Yellow, Pink, and Green

The stunning dining room, living room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour. Don’t miss their breakfast china. They both had their own pattern.

Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters. Mrs. Annenberg modified these after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94. The color-themed guest rooms, all in her favorite colors of yellow, pink and green, are also on the house tour.

*Comfortable guest rooms were color-themed and included Mrs. Annenberg’s favorites– yellow, green and pink. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood. She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.

Masterpieces

The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions. Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.

*This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.*

Playtime

The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012. That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.

U.S. Presidents

Sunnylands served as the winter home of the Annenbergs. It was also designed to function as a private and intimate retreat for luminaries and world leaders. The guest list is as impressive as the property. Eight U.S. Presidents were among the notable visitors the Annenbergs welcomed to Sunnylands. Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.

Ronald Reagan, a good friend of the Annenbergs, was a frequent guest as President, and earlier, when he served as Governor of California. Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years.

Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice, JellyBelly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands. Fun fact; the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!

*The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite. Jellybeans were always on hand–color coordinated to match the room, of course. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

Richard Nixon, was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent guest before, during and after his presidency. He spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.

President George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided. President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate. He preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the lake for early morning angling.

*President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.*

Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands. President Obama was a three-time visitor. He met with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate. The “Sunnylands Declaration” resulted from the meeting.

Welcoming World Leaders

Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE). It’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth IIPrince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands.

Weddings and Celebrations

It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party. Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list. Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display throughout the home.

The historic main house can be visited only by guided tour. Tours must be booked online, typically one month in advance. The Historic House Tour slots fill quickly because access is limited. Plan ahead! This is the only tour that provides access to the home.

Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking—there is no sitting down and children under 10 are not permitted. Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house.

Sunnyland’s Open Air Experience

There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more.

Sustainability

The Sunnylands Foundation is committed to sustainability. Steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens. Unlike the other tours, it does not require prior reservations.

Birding tours on the Estate are also available and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.

Visit the Gardens for Free

There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly. Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.

There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack, which can be enjoyed indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden. On a recent visit, families were playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.

The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked. Surely, this adds to the enjoyment of amateur botanists.

If You Go

Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns. The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here. Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on gelato or lemons.

This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.

How to Pack Light: Five Weeks with a Carry-On!

Packing for any trip–a weekend in wine country, a month in Europe, or something in between used to be second nature for me, but my skills got rusty during the pandemic. What I did and did not bring on my first post-Covid lockdown trips were proof of that! Thankfully, I’ve had lots of trips and plenty of practice packing light since then.

*Here’s how NOT to pack! What do they have in those big bags? And why?*

I just got back from five weeks in Europe with only a carry-on roller bag and one personal item. If I can do it, so can you. Here’s how to to get organized and travel lightly on your next adventure.

*These are my bags– for a five-week trip to Europe.*

Get Organized

Waiting until the last minute to pack means throwing stuff I don’t need into my bag and not bringing the things I do. Make a list or download one from one of the many online sites that offer them free. Do a “preliminary pack” about a week before you’re leaving and finalize right before you go. This goes for your suitcase (you won’t be checking it) and your one allowable “personal item” — mine is a tote that carries a small purse, laptop and essentials like travel documents and medications.

*Light layers took me comfortably from hiking in the Dolomites…*

Check the weather. Unless you’re traveling in mid-winter cold, you’ll want to pack light layers. We stayed in a castle in Tuscany, went hiking in the Dolomites, wine tasting in Friuli, explored small cities in the Marche, spent time at the seaside in Abruzzo, and revisited the eternal city.

*…to the Adriatic seaside, and lots of places in between.*

The weather was very different in each of these places, but by taking layers, my five-week wardrobe fit nicely in my carry- on (thanks to packing cubes) and I had the appropriate clothes for all the weather we encountered.

Take Half the Clothes and Twice the Money

That’s travel advice someone shared with me years ago and I still take it to heart. Chances are you’re going to be moving from one destination to another and seeing different people in all of those places. No one will know you’ve worn that outfit five times already. People everywhere dress much more casually than they used to– keep that in mind as you select your travel wardrobe.

Choose clothes you’re comfortable in– a trip abroad is not the time to discover your pants are too tight. If you’re like me, you may even add a few pounds on your travels so clothes that fit a little more loosely at the start of the trip is a good thing. I often bring a few things that are nearly ready for the donation bin, wear them a few last times and leave them behind– more room for new purchases in my bag!

*Neutrals are always appropriate. Use accessories to change your look.*

Choose neutrals. Pick black, white, camel, gray or navy as your base to create a “capsule wardrobe,” which means everything goes with everything else. Use accessories for a pop of color (I love scarves) and to change up your look. Remember the 3:1 rule– three tops for every bottom. Lay out whatever you think you need and then put at least one third of it back in the closet. You don’t need it—trust me.

Consider the activities you have planned. Your wardrobe for hiking in the Italian Alps is going to look a lot different than a theater-going marathon in London. Obviously, you’ll want performance fabrics for athletic endeavors. Choose natural fabrics, think cotton and silk, that will keep you comfortable for everything else. Merino wool works for most of the year and linen can’t be beat for hot summer days. Separates will provide much more flexibility than dresses or jumpsuits, but I always bring a dress, just in case I am going to the theater after a hike in the mountains.

*Some trips include all kinds of activities and events. We went from mountain hikes in the Dolomites to concerts in Salzburg and Vienna!*

Nice trousers, a button down shirt and a sweater will be fine for a night at the theater for men, though many we saw at classical concerts last fall in Vienna and Salzburg were in suits.

*People dress much more casually than they used to, even on a Saturday night in Rome.*

You do not need five pairs of shoes. Bring comfortable flats that can also go out to dinner, walking shoes or sneakers for daytime, and sandals or flip flops (good as slippers, too) if you’re headed to a sunny locale. Three pairs is plenty and be sure they’re comfortable. Blisters will ruin that romantic Parisian stroll you planned. If you’re hiking, or going into wet/snowy weather, that’s a different story. Wear your heaviest shoes/boots on the plane. Never bring new shoes and leave those cute heels at home! Streets are cobbled or uneven in many destinations. Men can get by with sandals (in warm weather), walking shoes that are comfortable but dressy enough for evening out, and a good pair of sneakers.

*Check out their footwear– flats and sneakers. Cobbled streets like these in Seville are more the rule than the exception.*

If the weather is changeable, I pack a puffer jacket and a vest (Patagonia’s nanopuff is my go-to) and a lightweight, waterproof shell with a pair of gloves and a scarf tucked in the pocket. That combination sees me through all but the coldest conditions.

Laundry

Pack for no more than a week, no matter how long you’ll be traveling. Wash lighter things in the bathroom sink in your hotel. Bring inflatable hangers and a few plastic clothes pins (also good for keeping drapes closed) — and use hotel shampoo as laundry soap. For heavier things like pants and shirts we use Google Maps to find a fluff- and -fold cleaner with drop- off service near our lodgings. We dropped our laundry off in Kalamata and learned it was the same cleaner the hotel used, but we paid the local’s price. They even delivered our clothes back to our hotel for us.

*If we can’t find a drop-off fluff and fold, we head to a laundromat.*

If you’re staying in an apartment with a washer, lucky you. Don’t expect to have a clothes drier in Europe—you’ll likely have a clothesline or drying rack. That works, too.

Medication, Documents, Jewelry

Bring extra prescription medications in case your return is delayed—and these days, it easily could be. We woke up to a text announcing our flight home later that day from Madrid was cancelled. Keep medication in its original container, or to save room, get pill pouches (tiny plastic bags available at pharmacies), peel off and apply the label from your Rx bottles and you’re set. Never pack medications in your luggage. Ask your doctor for paper copies of any prescriptions you take regularly in case you need to get more abroad.

*Keep passports and other documents, medications and any valuables with you at all times, not in your luggage.*

Leave jewelry at home. Unless you wear it every day, don’t bring it. You don’t want your bling bringing unwanted attention.

They Sell Toothpaste Overseas

*Hotels usually provide shampoo, bath gel, body lotion, soap, etc.– the basics will be waiting for you. No need to pack them.*

Don’t bring every toiletry and beauty product you use at home. Stick to travel sizes of the few you must have and buy what you need when you arrive. Toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and other necessities are readily available in most places you’ll be going. Remember–those 3.4 ounce liquids must fit into a quart- sized bag. If you transit through London Heathrow you will have to go through security again, even if you are departing from the same terminal you flew into. British Airways’ “quart” bag seems a tad smaller to me and you must be able to zip the bag completely closed or risk having your products confiscated. Not sure if you can carry it on? Check TSA.

*Sunny skies can change in a heartbeat. Pack light layers and an umbrella and you’ll be prepared for almost anything!*

Take an umbrella and a swimsuit no matter where you’re going. If you unexpectedly find yourself at the seaside or it turns out your hotel has a pool, you don’t want to frantically shop for a swimsuit— a daunting proposition at the best of times. A small, foldable umbrella is great for sun protection when you’re trekking through sunbaked ruins, as well as for the rain that’s bound to fall.

*We wouldn’t have wanted to miss a sunset swim at the Castello Delle Serre in Rapolano.*

Go Carry On

Don’t check your bag. In the old days I used to drag along a suitcase that was nearly as big as I am. I’m not a tall person, but you get the idea. After a certain British airline lost my luggage on the way to a Mediterranean cruise, I now check a bag only under duress. I like knowing my belongings are right above me in the overhead compartment, especially if I’m making connections.

*Don’t give airlines a chance to lose your bag or waste time waiting at the baggage carousel.*

I’ve heard so many horror stories about lost luggage but this is one of the worst: A friend’s luggage was recovered at London Heathrow four months after she returned from what should have been a romantic anniversary trip– everything was wet and ruined. Don’t let lost luggage ruin your trip before it even starts.

*Imagine dragging these bags around Rome?*

If your flight is cancelled or delayed, your chances of rebooking or going standby are much better if you haven’t checked luggage. When our flight home from Brussels was cancelled at the end of a busy Easter Week, we got the last seats on the next flight out because we had our bags with us.

*While these aren’t huge bags, she’s got two of them, and a duffel, and a purse. Take at least a third of what you think you’ll need out of your bag– you don’t need it. I promise.*

Use your coat as an extra carry on. Fill the pockets with small items (not liquids). Put a second jacket inside the first and put a vest or sweater in the sleeves. Make every pocket count!

If you travel with a portable medical device it does NOT count as your one allowable personal item. You can bring it aboard along with your roller bag plus your purse or backpack/tote bag. My husband has one and he takes advantage of any extra space in the device’s carry bag.

Stay Connected

Electronics need chargers and converters so be sure to pack enough for all your devices. You may also want to add an international calling/data plan to your mobile phone before you go. Use WhatsApp to stay in touch for free and use free WIFI when you can, though obviously not for sensitive information. You can also get a new SIM card at your destination(s) but be sure to let friends and family know your new phone number.

Someone recently asked me if they needed converters for their hair dryer and other styling tools. The answer is NO– because you’re going to leave those things at home. Every hotel and apartment rental I’ve ever stayed in anywhere in the world has a hair dryer.

*He’s heading to the gate with just the right amount of carry-on luggage*, *no matter how long the journey.*

The take-aways–Pack light. Leave valuables at home. Keep passports, medications and other hard -to -replace items with you—not in your luggage. Don’t check your bag unless you absolutely have to, and remember, if you forget something, 99 percent of the time there will be stores where you’re going. Ready, set, pack!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US copyright laws.

Navigating Travel as Covid Continues– Updated!

Note: I’ve chosen to leave this post up as a reminder of what travel was like not that long ago. Let’s hope this experience remains in the rear view mirror!

Remember when we could book an airline ticket, grab our bags and go? Covid has changed how, and even if we travel, for what feels like a long time now. As I prepared for my first international trip in nearly two years last fall, I learned just how different things had become. When I returned to Europe last month, the rules had changed again.

*Covid has changed so much about how and even if we can travel.*

Vaccination and documentation requirements, for leaving the country and returning, seem to change almost daily both in the USA and abroad. Check government websites for any and all countries you will visit or transit through for updated Covid information. Some countries still require testing, proof of vaccination, and forms that must be completed online before you can board the plane.

We traveled to Italy last fall, transiting through London’s Heathrow airport. We needed proof of a negative Covid test within 72 hours of travel (we scheduled free tests cvs.com), a completed EU locator form euplf.eu, a UK locator form gov.uk, an Italian Declaration Statement esteri.it, our vaccine card showing at least two doses, and of course, USA passport, before we could obtain our boarding passes. The UK has no restrictions right now, and masks are no longer required there or on planes or airports in the EU. When we went to Portugal and Spain last month we still needed to test to enter Portugal and locator forms were also required. Had we flown into Spain, none of that would have been necessary.

*We didn’t realize we needed a UK Locator Form just to pass through Heathrow Airport last fall.* *All restrictions have been lifted in the UK– for now.*

We flew on American Airlines which uses VeriFLY, an app you upload your documents and test results to for easier airport check-in. See if your airline uses one of these services. I wish we had downloaded it before we started our trip– we would’ve known we needed the UK Locator form before we got to the airport, saving time and undue stress as we scrambled to complete the form on our phones before we could check in.

*If your airline uses an app like VeriFLY download it– it makes check-in much easier and lets you know exactly which forms you’ll need before you head to the airport.*

I strongly suggest you carry paper copies of all of your documentation in case you can’t access digital copies. Not only did we need these to obtain our boarding passes, but also on arrival in the UK, before we boarded our flight to Rome and again when we landed in Rome. We also had to show negative Covid test results, vaccine card and EU locator forms when we checked in to our first hotel in Italy. This spring, we used Verifly again and it made life a lot easier!

*Check specific requirements for every country you plan to visit.*

Carry your Covid-19 vaccination card at all times. You will be showing it a lot if you’re traveling in an EU country. In Italy we needed our vaccine cards to enter all buildings including museums, shops, restaurants, hotels—nearly everywhere we went. In Spain and Portugal we rarely needed to show it, though we kept it handy just in case.

A clear plastic sleeve will help protect your card. I got ours on amazon.com. At the moment EU citizens and people from 16 other countries can get a digital “green pass” but most Americans cannot ec.europa.eu.

*You’ll show your vaccination card at the Green Pass check everywhere you go. Keep it handy!*

Bring disposable masks. Mask mandates are changing all the time. They are still required in many places where social distancing is not possible in the EU and other parts of the world. No discussion. No exceptions. Wear your mask if you’re asked to.

*Masks may be required in EU countries and many other parts of the world.*

Check your documents! Is your passport up to date? And by that, I mean will it be valid six months from your scheduled departure? If not, renew it now and be prepared to pay extra to expedite this if necessary. Everything takes longer in the time of Covid. I just renewed mine. It took six weeks with expedited processing, though the website said it could take up to 11 weeks. For more visit travel.state.gov.

Make copies of your passport and leave at least one copy at home with a friend or family member. Keep one with you in a secure location and keep a copy on your phone. This will come in handy if your passport goes missing. Having a color copy helped my husband get a replacement passport in a hurry when his was stolen in London. It also was helpful for the police report he had to file before the new one could be issued. Never pack your passport in a checked bag. When you’ve reached your destination lock it in your hotel safe and carry a color copy. Do not leave it in your room unsecured.

*Be sure your passport is valid for six months from your departure date.*

Notify your bank and credit card companies that you will be traveling abroad. Nothing will ruin your trip faster than having your credit card frozen because of fraud concerns. Make a note of contact numbers for your cards and keep it in a secure location in case they’re lost or stolen. If you don’t already have a four- digit pin, create one as soon as possible.

*We haven’t always been notified when a flight has been delayed or cancelled.* *Check your travel plans with your airline regularly.*

Check in with your airline regularly. Flights are cancelled and changed with shocking frequency these days. Both our outbound and return flights were cancelled, rescheduled, and changed again before we left for Italy. Our return trip from Madrid last month was cancelled the same day we were scheduled to fly and we got a “bonus” day there. Your airline will also have updated Covid information for the countries you’ll be visiting.

Book your rental car ASAP. Rental cars are harder to come by and much more expensive than they used to be. This is true everywhere. The sooner you book the more likely you’ll get what you want and at a better price. Try autoslash.com for price comparisons for the major rental companies.

Coming home can be fraught with anxiety these days as everyone must be tested for Covid before returning to the USA. We are one of the few remaining countries to require this and it is not as easy to organize as it was even last fall. At the moment rapid tests taken within 24-hours of departure are needed. Your hotel can usually book you an appointment. Ours had a nurse come to our room in Madrid to administer the test. If you’re going elsewhere, bring your passport to the testing appointment–you will need it to receive your documentation. We paid 50 Euro each in cash in Madrid for our tests in April. Last year in Rome it was 22 Euro each at a pharmacy. Be aware that some pharmacies do not test on the weekend, appointments are required, and because few countries require tests, not all will provide necessary documentation.

*You still need proof of a negative Covid test to return to the USA. Check for current requirements*.

Summing it up—Check current requirements for all countries you’ll visit or transit through, as well as testing needs for returning, and make appointments in advance. Keep your vaccination card handy. Be flexible– and very patient. Now go out in the world, be safe, and have fun!

Note– This article was originally written in January 2022 and updated in May 2022.

Oregon’s Rugged Coast is Spectacular in Springtime

Whale Watching

World’s Smallest Harbor

Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse

Lighthouse Life

Marine Life

Pacific Maritime & Heritage Center

The Burrows House

Hatfield Marine Science Center

Go Explore

Devil’s Punchbowl

Finders Keepers

Nye Beach

If You Go

Where to Eat

Depoe Bay

Gleneden Beach

Newport

Gleneden Breakfast

Lincoln City

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Liguria: The Coastal Magic of Camogli, Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Ligurian Coast

Stuck

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

Dinner With a View

Famous Fish Fry

Around Town

A Visit to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso

The Cinque Terre: Beautiful But…

Riomaggiore

Vernazza

Picture Perfect Portofino

Genoa

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How to Visit Sunnylands: A Midcentury Masterpiece

Some History

Inside Sunnylands

Yellow, Pink, and Green

Masterpieces

Playtime

U.S. Presidents

Welcoming World Leaders

Weddings and Celebrations

Sunnyland’s Open Air Experience

Sustainability

Visit the Gardens for Free

If You Go

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How to Pack Light: Five Weeks with a Carry-On!

Get Organized

Take Half the Clothes and Twice the Money

Laundry

Medication, Documents, Jewelry

They Sell Toothpaste Overseas

Go Carry On

Stay Connected

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Navigating Travel as Covid Continues– Updated!

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