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Scala dei Turchi- Sicily’s Spectacular Turkish Steps

You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.

When we first visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.

Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.

The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.

As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.

Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.

The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.

Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.

The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.

Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.

We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.

Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi when you visit. It is not possible to climb them any more.

The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.

You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.

Visitors used to be able to relax and enjoy the unparalleled view from the top of the Turkish Steps.

The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!

UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright laws.

Around Town in Taormina, Sicily

Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.

The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.

Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.

Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.

How do all these shops stay in business?

Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.

Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.

Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.

La Fontana, Taormina.

Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.

Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.

Taormina, Sicily.

More, more, more.

Modern ceramics are popular, too.

Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.

Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.

This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.

Taking a break in Taormina.

There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.

Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.

The humble but tasty arancino.

Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!

Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.

If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.

The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.

The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.

Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.

Some of the 700+ steps that lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.

The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.

The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.

You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.

The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.

If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.

If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.

Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.

Napa Valley Winery Visits and our First Stop- B Cellars

Gone are the days when it was possible to drive up and down Route 29 or the Silverado Trail and pop into wineries for complimentary tastings. Though there are plenty of wineries that are open to all during posted hours, many are open for tours and tastings by appointment only. Most now require reservations due to the Covid-19 crisis. It is also rare to find a winery that offers complimentary tastings. Buses, and even limos, are discouraged at most wineries these days, too. We think these are all positive changes and if you’ve ever seen large, loud groups who’ve clearly been doing more drinking than “tasting” you’ll probably agree.

B Cellar’s owners preserved many of the older oak trees on the property when they built the new winery facility.

The Napa Valley has nearly 500 wineries with tasting rooms so to make the most of your trip, it’s important to do some homework. Look at a map of the Napa Valley and find where your favorite wineries’ tasting rooms are located because sometimes they are not where the wine is actually made. You won’t want to waste time driving up and down the Valley backtracking, so plan your itinerary with location in mind. Our rule of thumb is no more than three winery visits a day and only two if the tours and tastings are very extensive. Do some research and contact your favorite wineries to see what they offer and reserve accordingly. Many offer a range of “experiences.”

When walk-in visits were allowed and most people just turned up, by booking a visit you’d frequently get to taste special bottles and have the chance to really learn about a particular winery and its wine maker. You’d also avoid the crowded tasting room experience, though the current public health crisis limits the number of people allowed at wineries.

B Cellars open demonstration kitchen.

On our last visit to Napa Valley we began with a trip to B Cellars in Oakville. We had first visited them back in 2014, when the winery was being built and our tasting took place in a construction trailer. The wines were spectacular then too, but now the setting befits the wine! The Hospitality House, with several tasting areas inside and out, is situated on gorgeous, expansive grounds and includes a demonstration kitchen, a culinary garden, chicken coop, wine production facilities, wine cave and event space.

The grounds are populated by Seward Johnson’s lifelike sculptures of people involved in daily tasks like shopping, gardening and just relaxing.

The winery, which was founded in 2003 by Duffy Keys and Jim Borsack, with the highly respected Kirk Venge as winemaker, offers several tasting experiences. Most take about 90 minutes. Since we would be coming right after lunch, we chose the Sojourn, which included B Cellars Flagship wines and several delicious local cheeses.

We were greeted with a taste of the 2013 Juliana Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, which we enjoyed on the expansive terrace. We moved over to an umbrella- shaded table and began our tasting in earnest with a 2012 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay.

The Hospitality House has tasting areas inside and out.

Red wines we tasted included the 2013 Manzana Vineyard Pinot Noir, a 2009 Blend 24, and 2012 Ehrlich Cabernet Sauvignon. Our delightful and knowledgeable wine host Alex also poured us several wines not typically included on the Sojourn tasting including a 2012 Blend 26.

Our knowledgeable wine host Alex.

The wine cellar has plenty of private event space.

After our tasting we elected to tour the grounds and wine cave with Alex—a lovely and memorable afternoon at B Cellars and a great place to begin our Napa Valley wine adventure.

Note– I have updated this post to reflect the need for reservations during the current coronavirus crisis. Please check with individual wineries for details and requirements.

Carneros: Art, Bubbles and Fine Dining

This lovely path leads to the di Rosa Collection– one of the most extensive contemporary art collections in Northern California.

If you’re ready for a break from wine tasting and need to get off the well-trodden and always busy wine road that is Route 29, head over to the tranquil Carneros District and stop in at the di Rosa Collection. This lovely property has been open to the public since 2000, when it was incorporated as a nonprofit public trust.

The Gatehouse Gallery features rotating exhibitions of contemporary art.

Rene and Veronica di Rosa’s extensive contemporary art collection includes some 2,000 works by 800 artists including Richard Shaw, Bruce Nauman, Larry Sultan, John Buck, Allan Rath, Paul Kos, Viola Frey and many others and is considered to be one of the most important collections in Northern California.

Book a tour to see the entire collection both inside the buildings and around the gorgeous grounds.

The works are displayed in three buildings and throughout the property. The modern Gatehouse Gallery is home to rotating exhibitions of modern paintings, sculpture, multi-media and interactive pieces.

A recent exhibition in the Gatehouse Gallery.

An interactive piece lets visitors…

…blow giant smoke rings!

Tongue-In-Cheek, a recent exhibition at Gatehouse.

Gallery admission allows access only to the current exhibition on view in the Gatehouse and is self-guided. To experience the entire collection, set aside 1-1/2 to two hours for the superb guided tour of the outbuildings, including the chapel, and the exquisite grounds. It is best to book the guided tour in advance to avoid disappointment.

Take a tour and experience the art outdoors.

You’ll likely see peacocks racing through the tall grass around many of the outdoor sculptures including, “Field Hands.” The catalog of the permanent collection, Local Color, makes a great souvenir or a gift for an art-loving friend. Click here for updated information.

Outside art.

Domaine Carneros is right across the road from di Rosa.

After your tour of the di Rosa Collection, go across the street to the elegant Domaine Carneros—it’s home to Tattinger’s California sparkling wines. Reservations are required.

Domaine Carneros– Taittinger’s California Sparkling Wine.

There are numerous options for tasting from flights to single glasses. Take your glass out onto the beautiful terrace and enjoy the spectacular view across the vineyards of the Carneros District.

Enjoy a drink in this pleasant lounge area at Farm.

One of my favorite dining destinations is in the Carneros, just a short distance away—Farm at the Carneros Inn. We have celebrated many memorable meals here and the last, which happened to be an anniversary, was no exception. Start with your libation of choice and relax outside on the comfy couches that surround the open fire. Depending on the hour, you’re likely to see children running happily around the lawn—much better here than in the dining room!

The dining room is casual but elegant.

The menu at Farm changes often to reflect the restaurant’s commitment to local, seasonal and sustainable produce, fish and meat. The cuisine is contemporary Californian and the wine list draws almost entirely from California producers.

The wine list focuses on Californian bottlings. Our somm gave us terrific recommendations like this Philip Staley 2012 Viognier.

Service is impeccable and the room is spare yet elegant. The restaurant is open daily for dinner only and reservations are a must.

A complimentary amuse bouche began our dining adventure.

Even a chicken breast is elevated to new culinary heights at Farm.

The halibut was sublime.

A chocolate lover’s dream dessert.

A lovely finish to a beautiful meal.

The hotel also has a casual option called Boon Fly, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations are only available at dinner. This is great place to stop if you want a quick and tasty lunch and are in the mood for a burger, salad or sandwich.

Mix it up a bit and add Carneros to your itinerary. You’ll be glad you did!

Note– I have updated this post to reflect the need for reservations during the current coronavirus crisis, though other elements of your visit may also change. Please check with individual wineries, restaurants and galleries for details and requirements.

Art and Wine in Napa Valley—A Visit to Mumm Napa and Hall Wines

A surprising number of Napa wineries also have art galleries on their premises. The Hess Collection, Clos Pegase, and Hall Wines –more on that winery later—are among our personal favorites.

Mumm Napa is a great place to stop for a glass of sparkling wine and a visit to their photo gallery.

We frequently stop by Mumm Napa to see what’s new in their gallery, which features fine art photography. This time, we grabbed a glass of their California sparkling—always choosing one that is not readily available outside the winery, like the Santana or a DVX Cuvee – and headed off to see the Graham Nash photos then on view. The primarily black and white photos focused mostly on Nash’s days as part of the band Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young.

Mumm Napa’s gallery features fine art photography and exhibitions changes frequently.

A color photo by singer/songwriter Graham Nash on view at Mumm Napa’s photography gallery.

Mumm’s permanent collection includes a sizable collection of Ansel Adam’s black and white photos of Yosemite and other beautiful California locations.

Mumm’s photo exhibits change frequently and you may be lucky enough to visit while they’re hosting an artist’s reception.There is no charge for admission to the Mumm gallery nor are you required to purchase wine, but why wouldn’t you? After viewing the photos, relax on their expansive verandah with another glass and enjoy the pleasant views out over the vineyards.

Hall Wines has a truly marvelous contemporary art collection and they make delicious wines, too, which were two reasons we chose to stop in. Located on Route 29 in St. Helena, visitors can’t help but notice the huge metal rabbit that appears to be leaping over the vineyards (shown above). Lawrence Argent created the sculpture. He is also the artist responsible for the gigantic red rabbit titled, “Leap,” in the Sacramento, CA airport. Hall’s owners, Kathryn and Craig Hall, were quite taken by the airport piece and had a similar one commissioned for the winery.

Baldessari’s camel greets visitors to Hall Wines in St. Helena.

Please don’t ride the sheep!

Guests at Hall are greeted by a whimsical flock of sheep by Francois- Xavier Lalanne and a camel sculpture by John Baldessari, both positioned close to the main entrance. Other contemporary pieces on view include a an enormous piece constructed of “temperamental” index cards by Peter Wegner and a huge wall hanging fashioned from embroidered and bedazzled textiles (read repurposed sweaters) by Nick Cave. You’ll find fiber optic art, a crazy kaleidoscope by Alyson Shotz that looks out over the vineyards behind the modern tasting facility, and many more edgy pieces to capture your imagination by highly regarded artists like Russell Crotty, Joel Shapiro, Anya Gallaccio, Jaume Plensa, Jesus Moroles, Ivan Navarro, Spencer Finch and others.

Wenger’s “temperamental” index cards are prominently displayed in the visitor’s center.

This piece by Nick Cave was fashioned from repurposed textiles like embellished sweaters.

Outside, you’ll find more art including a number of structures by Patrick Dougherty reminiscent of the “Big Bamboo” installation that was on display, and available for climbing, at Rome’s Macro Museum in the Testaccio during one visit. Please do not climb any of the art at Hall. There are plenty of benches to rest on to contemplate life and watch the grapes grow. There is also a barn on the property available for private functions.

It’s fun to explore these “structures” on the grounds at Hall Wines.

Hall hosts private events in this barn.

After touring the collection outside, head back in to the LEED® Gold certified building for what the Halls tout as #crazygoodcabernet—and it is. The attentive and very knowledgeable wine hosts will tell you everything you want and need to know about the provenance of the grapes, the processes used and the excellent wines you will taste here. There is a fee for tasting and several options are offered. Reservations are requested.

Step inside the beautiful tasting room for some #crazygoodcabernet.

Hall also has a well-stocked gift shop with just about anything the wine aficionado could want, including a suitcase designed to carry those precious bottles back home on the plane.

The gift shop has something for every wine fan.

Wineries cannot compete with their own distributors by discounting prices so sometimes it’s wise to wait until you get home to buy—this applies to all wineries in California. If you fall in love with a wine that’s only available at the winery, buy it! California wineries ship to most states.

Looking for more art? Click here.

Note– I have updated this post to reflect the need for reservations during the current coronavirus crisis, though other elements of a visit may also have changed. Please check with individual wineries for details and requirements.

Downtown Napa Dining: Atlas Social + 1313 Main + Oenotri + Cadet

Note: This article originally included a review of TORC, since closed. Please check individual restaurants’ and attractions’ websites for the most updated information possible.

There are few vacations I find more relaxing than a trip to the Napa Valley. There are always new restaurants to try, old favorites to revisit, and of course wonderful wines to enjoy. The Napa Valley also offers plenty of shopping, spa experiences and interesting art. But first, let’s eat.

Atlas Social is a fun downtown venue.

Downtown Napa has come a long way in recent years and offers a wide range of delicious dining destinations that will fit most tastes and budgets. We started our culinary adventures with dinner at Atlas Social www.atlassocialnapa.com, which is operated by the same people who own Azzurro Pizzeria and Enoteca and the Norman Rose Tavern, both in downtown Napa.

Inside Atlas Social.

Atlas Social, which opened in January 2015, has a casual vibe and a big, open dining room and bar area. The menu will appeal to locavores and fans of the farm to fork concept. The dishes, which range from snacks like their addictive Herb Leaf Fries with Meyer Lemon aioli ($6) to platters for a group, like the Garlic and Chili Roasted Whole Fish ($35), Spice Highway Chicken ($19/$35) and Grilled Hanger Steak ($36), are meant for sharing. They have an interesting and well-priced wine list that is all Californian except for a sparkling offering from France. Craft brew lovers won’t go thirsty either. There are beers on tap from California and Oregon, large format beer offerings from the West Coast, and ciders and a few other imported beers in cans.

Crunchy, crispy herb leaf fries with an addictive Meyer Lemon aioli.

We happily worked our way through the seasonally appropriate menu, sampling from all the categories—Farm, Sea, and Ranch plus those amazing fries. We ate the delicious shaved snap pea salad ($8), “angry” shrimp (I didn’t find them all that spicy) with basil, chilies and orange ($14), Masala chicken skewers ($10) and finished with the duck confit ($13), which was a very generous portion.

The shaved snap pea, marcona almond, sieved egg + citrus vinaigrette salad was my favorite dish. Spectacular!

Masala spiced chicken skewers with eggplant-pepper Muhammara + pine nut syrup were nicely seasoned.

1313 Main www.1313main.com was new for us and definitely deserves a return visit. What began as a wine bar is now a fantastic full- fledged restaurant. Even though there were plenty of people enjoying their meals on the Saturday night that we dined, the room was quiet enough for conversation and quite comfortable for a leisurely meal.

1313 Main should be on your list of downtown Napa dinner spots.

After a complimentary amuse bouche, we began our meal in earnest with a flatbread “carta musica” topped with chevre, lettuces, radishes, raspberries and nasturtiums ($11).

This flatbread was so beautifully presented, it looked almost too good to eat.

Champagne by Henri Goutorbe recommended by somm Bryan, made a festive and well-matched accompaniment.

Sommelier Bryan helped navigate the extensive wine list at 1313 Main.

Next up was a green garlic risotto with green peas, escargot and topped with crunchy garlic breadcrumbs ($17). I rarely order risotto out since I prepare it at home often, but this was delicious.

The risotto was a perfectly delicious.

Bacon-wrapped rabbit loin on a bed of polenta and salsa verde was an excellent choice.

The sturgeon was wrapped in “brick dough” and served with beautiful seasonal vegetables.

We chose a Knez Winery’s K—and Anderson Valley Pinot Noir to accompany our main courses, Sonoma Rabbit ($28) and Sturgeon in Brick Dough ($25). The Day Boat Scallops ($28) and Lamb Saddle ($29) we tempting, too, but will have to wait for the next time.

For once, we saved room for dessert—pound cake churros served with a Valrhona drinking chocolate ($8). A perfect finale to a terrific meal.

Save room for dessert!

1313 Main also offers a seven course Chef’s tasting Menu from amuse bouche to mignardises for $70 per person with an additional $55 for wine pairings.

Complimentary mignardise.

The wine list is very well thought out and will fit most tastes and budgets. Offerings are broad, global and interesting with bottles ranging from a 2010 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir from Fiddlehead Cellars for $39 to a 2008 Opus One Red Blend from Napa Valley for $1020. Both small and large format bottles are offered including a number of wines available in Jerobaoms and Methuselahs. 1313 Main also has a wonderful champagne list which includes the well-known labels, or grandes marques, as well as bubbles from grower producers and negociants. There are of course a full complement of sweet and fortified wines to end the meal. The people at two adjacent tables seemed to enjoy their dessert wine– two glasses of 1890 De Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva Madeira ($150 per glass) very much– a sweet end to a memorable meal.

Oenotri has a busy, open kitchen and a bustling dining room.

Oenotri www.oenotri.com is a downtown Southern Italian restaurant that we return to again and again. It’s a fun, casual restaurant with delicious, well-priced fare, a lively bar and great service. Salads are inventive and large enough to share. We had a stone fruit salad with pancetta and nuts that was a great beginning to our meal ($13). Other antipasti on offer include pork belly, salmon crudo and seasonal vegetables.

A stone fruit salad was a great choice on a warm night.

Pastas range from a standard like bucatini with Alfredo sauce to an unexpected canneloni stuffed with pigeon. The pasta dishes are also suitable for sharing and prices range from $17 to $18. We didn’t have pasta this time but have enjoyed them as part of past meals here.

The pizzas are thin crusted and tasty and range in price from $15.50 to $18.00. If Oenotri’s seasonal toppings aren’t enough, diners can add traditional items like anchovy, Calabrian Chili or pancetta for a few additional dollars. We shared the nicely spicy “Diavola” pizza with gypsy peppers, lamb sausage and fior di latte with heirloom tomatoes. We added arugula to ours– vegetables are so important!

This was a terrific pie– crispy, thin crust and tasty toppings.

There is also a selection of “secondi”– main plates, usually including a fish, a meat and a poultry dish, that change frequently. We chose the swordfish prepared in the typical Sicilian agrodolce style which was served with grilled squashes and fennel. We had a crisp 2013 Tami Grillo from Sicily which was perfect with the meal. Main courses are in the $28 to $32 range.

Sicilian-style swordfish took me back there, for a little while.

A nice Sicilian wine was a great match for the food.

We were too full for dessert after another delightful dinner at Oenotri! Check their website for events and news www.oenotri.com.

A bonus to our meal was learning from our server about Cadet www.cadetbeerandwinebar.com, a fun little bar just around the alley. Naturally, we had to pop by and check it out. We were there on a surprisingly crowded Monday night. Turns out it is a popular spot among those who work in the hospitality business. Plenty of restaurants are closed on Monday night and Cadet is where those folks go to take a break.

Cadet has a lively bar scene with libations and a casual menu.

Monday is “School Night” at Cadet.

Other restaurants in downtown Napa that we’ve enjoyed and recommend checking out include: Celedon www.celedonnapa.com, Zuzu www.zuzunapa.com, Angele Restaurant + Bar www.angelerestaurant.com, and Kitchen Door www. kitchendoornapa.com at Oxbow Market. If you have any favorites we haven’t talked about, please let us know and we’ll be sure to add them to the list for our next visit.

Back to (Ski) School— Hitting the Slopes at Deer Valley

It had been more than 25 years since I last slid my feet into skis but when the chance came to join some friends on their annual ski trip to Park City, Utah, I took it. This would be my first time to visit Utah. A short Delta flight delta.com from San Diego and then an Uber had us in Park City in no time.

There is lodging ranging from hotel rooms to home rentals at all price points in and around Park City. We stayed at a friend’s home in this beautiful area close to both Park City Mountain and Deer Valley.

We set off to get provisions for the house and made a quick trip to Christy Sports Ski and Snowboard Rentals www.christysports.com where my friends had reserved their equipment. Book your gear in advance online and you’ll save about 15 percent. There are numerous rental outlets to choose from in Park City and the ski resorts have their own shops and rental facilities, too. Check around for best prices.

Downtown Park City has plenty of stores, boutiques, galleries and restaurants for every taste and budget. You’ll get the best value in ski gear rentals with an advance booking online at places like Christy’s, which is outside of town.

We had a delicious dinner at the Blind Dog www.blinddogpc.com on our first night. It’s a casual restaurant popular with locals and visitors with an expansive menu sure to please most. There are salads, seafood and steak dishes to choose from, as well as both gluten free and vegetarian options. There is also a sushi menu available, which several in our group chose.

The Blind Dog has lots of menu options including gluten free and vegetarian selections.

Everything was fresh and tasty and the service attentive.The Blind Dog’s “Whine List” has a very good selection with plenty of by- the- glass options, beers, cocktails and sakes. The restaurant also has a gift shop with all manner of Blind Dog merchandise.

Indulge in some after dinner shopping at Blind Dog in Park City, UT.

The next morning we were off to Deer Valley Resort. There wasn’t as much snow as in years past, but the mountains were beautiful and I was excited to start my ski adventure.

Deer Valley is a full- service ski resort with lodging, restaurants, shops, gear rentals and a terrific ski school.

The others were planning to ski both Deer Valley www.deervalley.com and Park City www.parkcitymountain.com during our time there, but I was advised to start at Deer Valley. Their ski school is highly regarded and after my lengthy hiatus from the mountains, lessons were definitely in order. Note: Deer Valley is for skiers only–snowboarders are welcome at Park City Mountain.

Park City Mountain welcomes snowboarders and skiers. Free buses shuttle visitors between the mountain and downtown Park City.

The Deer Valley www.deervalley.com ski school staff suggested I purchase a beginner’s day pass, which allows access up to Silver Lake –about mid-mountain and high enough for me. A beginner’s pass was only $35 while a full day pass was $120 for adults. There are discounts available for seniors, children and military. You must have a pass to take lessons.

You must have a ski pass to take lessons at Deer Valley. The beginner’s ticket is perfect if you’re only planning to go mid-mountain.

I also opted to rent my equipment at Deer Valley. You can purchase your lift ticket, equipment rental and pay for lessons at the rental shop—one stop shopping. Since I chose the three-hour afternoon ski lesson, I was also counseled to wait until noon to get my rentals—great advice since the price is reduced at that time. I found out later that my rental also included a complimentary subscription to Ski Magazine.

Deer Valley has a highly regarded ski school and lived up to its reputation with patient, knowledgeable instructors.

By 12:40 p.m. I was fully outfitted and making my way to join the others in my “Max 4” lesson, so-called because there is a maximum of three other students plus an instructor. Students are matched as much as possible based on level of skill, age, etc. I was with three other women and all had been back on the slopes far more recently than I. Mike Wirt, from upstate New York, was our excellent and patient instructor. He critiqued with kindness, gave practical pointers and instilled confidence in all of us.

Being back on skis after a 25- year hiatus was fun and exhilarating. Yes, I fell a few times but that was no surprise!

I was a little nervous when our instructor took my poles away but it actually helped me improve—immediately. Before long, I was skiing with a new found confidence and while I fell a few times (including a pretty spectacular wipeout that involved a fence), I thoroughly enjoyed myself. I had a wonderful and exhilarating afternoon, and thanks to Mike’s excellent instruction, I’m looking forward to my next adventure on the slopes.

In addition to skiing, you can book snowshoeing and sleigh ride excursions at Deer Valley or rent skates at Park City and take a few turns on their on-site ice rink.

Deer Valley Resort has numerous options for dining and refreshments. I enjoyed a restorative hot cocoa at Deer Valley, Etc., the coffee shop on the plaza level, and a casual lunch at the cafeteria there. My friends dined at Silver Lake Restaurant, which they raved about, but my lesson time precluded meeting up with them mid-mountain.

There are also shops to explore and a handy locker room to stow your stuff while you’re on the slopes at Deer Valley. Lockers are $3 for one- time access. The attended bins are $5 for all day access and can be shared. This is the way to go if you want to ditch outer layers as the day warms up. You may also store your skis overnight with the attendants. Park City Mountain also offers a variety of dining and shopping opportunities as well, and an on-site outdoor ice rink.

Complimentary buses take visitors from Deer Valley and Park City Mountain to downtown Park City where a free trolley is available.

Local transportation is convenient and complimentary— free shuttle buses take visitors into town, up to Silver Lake, to Park City Mountain and all around the area. There’s also a free trolley that traverses Park City’s Main Street.

The helpful people at Deer Valley’s information booth are happy to assist with transportation, excursions and dining recommendations. In addition to skiing, shopping and dining, it is also possible to book sleigh rides and snowshoeing outings at Deer Valley. The lack of snow precluded us from those activities last time, but next season looks promising!

The Museum of Flight: An Aviation Adventure

Air Force One, the Concorde, the Space Shuttle Trainer, the first fighter plane, and many more remarkable aircraft are just a short drive south of Seattle in Tukwila, WA, home of the largest private non-profit aviation museum in the West.

Seaplanes to space craft are all on display at the Museum of Flight.

The Museum of Flight http://www.museumofflight.org is located at the King County International Airport on Boeing Field and has more than 150 aircraft plus interactive exhibitions, rare photographs, films, newsreels, memorabilia and much more. Exhibits take visitors on a fascinating journey from the earliest days of aviation, to the moon, and back to the present.

Military aircraft make up a significant part of the Museum’s collection.

After purchasing tickets inside the Museum of Flight, come back outside and climb aboard some of the most iconic aircraft to ever take flight. The outdoor exhibits close before the museum does.

The very first Air Force One jet.

Just outside on the Boeing Field, the first jet used as Air Force One, a specially constructed Boeing 707-120 called SAM (Special Air Missions) 970, is open for touring. Presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon and numerous dignitaries traveled the world aboard this particular aircraft. Kennedy’s pipe rack, Johnson’s hat rack, the safe where the president’s secret nuclear codes were kept, “Press Section” seating and the president’s private quarters are all on view.

This area was the president’s private sitting area and popular for naps, we were told.

Personal memorabilia from several presidents are still onboard.

The world’s fastest commercial jet, one of only 20 Concordes ever built, is on display outside the Museum, too. Courtesy of British Airways, guests can tour this compact aircraft. We were surprised at just how narrow the cabin was.

One of only 20 Concordes manufactured.

Speed was more important than spaciousness on the Concorde.

At the other end of the spectrum, guests can visit Boeing’s 787 Dreamliner, one of the most fuel efficient commercial airliners to take to the skies, according to the company.

A wide array of aircraft are on display and open for touring. Helpful docents are on hand at most.

There’s plenty of room to relax on this Boeing 787, at least in the forward cabins.

Also on the field is a US Air 737, which now serves as a theater for those interested in viewing Time Flies: Century of Flight.

Back inside the Museum, guests can trace the history of aviation from its earliest days right up to the present. The Red Barn, where the Boeing Company began, is part of the Museum today and gives guests an excellent historical perspective on the development of commercial aviation.

Inside the Red Barn.

Visitors can learn about the men and women at the forefront of aviation in America.

Rare photographs, news stories, film clips and more tell the story of flight.

Memorabilia from Boeing’s beginning.

The Museum has displays of every imaginable aircraft from the Taylor Aerocar III—AKA the “car plane”, which actually did take flight as a film clearly shows; to all manor of military aircraft, including the first fighter plane, the Italian built Caproni Ca.20; to planes used to deliver mail in Alaska and newspapers in the Midwest and much more.

The Aerocar was one of my favorite aircraft. The wings folded into a handy trailer for driving after landing.

There is a hole in the floor of the plane for the pilot to drop newspapers through.

There are even miniature planes. The Holtgrewe WWII Model Collection has more than 400 1/72 scale models of military aircraft used by most of the countries who became combatants in the second world war. Another marvelous miniature is the 1/10 scale model of the Montgolfier Brothers’ Balloon on display in the Museum’s lobby.

A model of a Montgolfier Brothers Balloon greets visitors in the lobby.

Military craft from many nations attract visitors’ attention.

A Vietnam War era helicopter.

The U.S. Space Program is well represented, too. Visitors can track America’s race to space from its earliest days to the present. There are photographs, magazine and newspaper articles, films and news reels, exhibits on the animals used in space program, space suits worn by U.S. Astronauts and Soviet Cosmonauts, and a vast assortment of memorabilia from moon rocks to the cowboy boots worn by a famous test pilot. Apollo 17 Mission Models and the only Mars Viking lander still here on Earth are also at the Museum.

Here’s how the cosmonauts suited up for space.

Primates and pups launched before our first astronauts.

Guests can also walk through the Space Shuttle Trainer Crew Compartment where U.S. astronauts trained for every Shuttle mission. A separate 30- minute tour of the Trainer is available for an additional fee for visitors 10 years and older. Tours of the Boeing Field are also offered for an additional fee.

Apollo 17 models are just some of the fascinating exhibits on space exploration.

There are numerous flight simulators, exhibits on every aspect of aviation including rocketry and “spacebots”, a research library, aviation advertising, and so much more for visitors to see.

Aviation advertising from the days when flying was fun.

An American Airlines advertisement.

There is so much to see and experience at the Museum that many visitors will not be able to enjoy all that is on offer in one day. Happily, discounted return tickets are available so take your time and come back again.

Wild Ginger: Seattle Standby

Wild Ginger www.wildginger.net has been part of Seattle’s restaurant scene since 1989. We have visited the Asian eatery and satay bar several times during numerous visits to the Emerald City. This time, we chose it for lunch.

Wild Ginger can accommodate large groups in its multi-level downtown restaurant.

The downtown location (there is also one in Bellevue) is huge and has multiple dining rooms on two levels. Wild Ginger offers an expansive menu with dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Indonesia and Malaysia. You’ll find lots of traditional favorites on the menu, including gluten free and vegan options, which should appeal if you have a large group. There were a number of these at our recent visit.

The expansive menu has vegan and gluten free options.

Starters include Siam lettuce cups at $18.50/ $22.50, traditional Chinese potstickers for $9.50/$13.50, and Vietnamese style chicken wings for $13.50. We began with fresh and tasty “Buddha rolls”– spring rolls served with a pineapple dipping sauce, $9.50.

Tasty Buddha Rolls started our meal.

We decided to skip the soup and salad category which ranges from squash and sweet potato stew $5, to green papaya salad $11. Though many of the main dishes, like the fragrant duck $16.50/$28 and green curry chicken $13.50/$17.50, sounded delicious, we opted for several luncheon specials, which we shared. Luncheon specials rotate regularly, about every other week. These typically include poultry, fish, meat, and vegetable options, and a “chef’s special” fried rice dish.

The chicken curry was delicious. We wanted more.

Our waiter recommended the special yellow chicken curry with bok choy $14, and told us he ordered himself any time it appeared on the menu. We agreed it was delicious! He also touted the grilled prawns $15, which sounded tasty, but we found the dish pedestrian and disappointing. If you’re planning on sharing, be aware that servings were quite small, at least among the dishes we chose.

Seafood, poultry, meat and vegetable options are available as lunch specials.

If you’re interested in imbibing, Wild Ginger has a large, well thought out wine list as well as cocktails, beer, and of course, teas and soft drinks. Overall, Wild Ginger offers a wide variety of good Asian food, but if you don’t choose wisely, you’ll find yourself with an expensive tab at the end of the meal.

Super Seattle Supper at Terra Plata

We chose Terra Plata www.terraplata.com for our Sunday supper and we’re glad we did. This Capitol Hill restaurant features a large bar and rough-hewn wooden tables mostly filled by groups of young people and families all obviously enjoying their meals and beverages. It was another warm summer Seattle night but the big open windows helped to keep it cool inside.

Terra Plata has a fun, casual vibe.

There are cocktails and a nice selection of beers and ciders on tap or in bottles, including local brews from Washington and Oregon at Terra Plata. The reasonably priced wine list features plenty of good choices from the Northwest, Italy, France and Spain. We began with a glass of sparkling rose from Chatau Moncontour in the Loire Valley for $13, and a round of Bale Breaker IPAs at $6 each. We chose a refreshing rose from Chateau Teulon in Costieres de Nimes at $32 to accompany our meal.

The large bar area filled up as the evening progressed.

Terra Plata’s menu is divided into snacks and starters, earth, sea, and land. Like at many Northwest restaurants, sharing is heartily encouraged. Starters ranged from Moroccan olives at $6, to $13 for blistered Shishito peppers or roasted grapes with olives, walnuts and crostini, and topped out at $22 for the generous charcuterie plate.

Serrano ham and cherries punched up the flavor profile of this tasty salad.

The butter lettuces served with Cabrales dressing (a blue cheese), cherries and crisp Serrano ham from the “earth” category was $14 and perfect for sharing—which we did. Other choices included beets with sheep’s cheese, arugula and pistachio at $20; a radish plate with English pea butter, anchovy butter and “roof top” herbs for $11; or a risotto with peas, mint, mascarpone, parmigiano and pea leaves for $26.

We would heartily endorse the halibut.

We opted for our own entrees, though shared tastes of course. The halibut with skordalia, charred garlic scapes (a member of the green onion family), crushed olives and lemon tahini vinaigrette was perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. It was well worth the $32. The others at the table enjoyed the succulent roast pig with chorizo, clams, hot smoked paprika, chicharron and “bay scented” potatoes. The $30 roast pig was so large that two people could easily have shared one portion.

Crunchy chicharron were a perfect foil for the succulent roast pork.

Once again, we were too full for dessert, but several at our table chose to sample a few of the Madeiras ($7 and $9 per glass) on the wine list–a perfect ending to a delicious meal. Terra Plata’s wait staff was very friendly and knowledgeable and gave us excellent guidance throughout the evening. We will definitely return!

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