Like many travelers, we chose to start our Sicilian adventure in Taormina. About an hour’s drive north from the Catania airport, Taormina is high above the Ionian Sea, affording fantastic views of both the sea and Mt. Etna, especially if you have chosen lodging above the town as we did, at the Villa Ducale. More on that later.
Taormina, Sicily.
Mt. Etna peaks through the clouds, Taormina, Sicily.
The drive up the winding A18/E45 to Taormina is usually uneventful except for when you have to share the narrow roadway with enormous tour buses and trucks careening through curves beside you. As we approached the A18/E45 toll way on our last visit, we saw traffic backed up for a good distance—this was unusual. When we finally arrived at the ticket booths, we noticed many people leaving their cars and walking up to the ticket machines. There were no workers on site and the machines were not functioning either. A number of the toll barriers had been lifted up and people were just driving through—without tickets. We followed suit while I frantically searched my memory banks for the Italian words to tell the toll taker at the other end why we had no ticket. I had just about figured out what to say when we reached our exit and saw the big posters pasted on the tollbooth—Sciopero–Strike! We should have known. There are frequent strikes in Italy. They are usually announced in the media in advance of the event and they are not particularly long lived. It is a good idea to pay attention to what and who exactly will be striking, particularly if you are relying on public transportation.
Memorize the word sciopero– strike! Strikes occur often in Italy.
That experience behind us, we continued our drive up into the hills above the city of Taormina to our hotel—The Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci, 60, Taormina. I must admit all those glowing Trip Advisor reviews I read made me a little apprehensive when I booked in for our first visit last year. How could anyplace be that good? I’m pleased to report that it is indeed a wonderful place to stay. We have stayed there twice for a total of seven nights and were delighted with our lodging, the service, staff and the quiet location above the busy town of Taormina.
Our room at Villa Ducale, high above Taormina, Sicily. Sister hotel, Villa Carlotta is located in Taormina, closer to the sea.
Our terrace at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily. We also had a small balcony.
Friendly, attentive service is a hallmark at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.
There is no “restaurant” at the hotel however; dinner is served nightly on their beautiful terrace with gorgeous views to the sea below and Mt. Etna above. Sit back with a nice glass of prosecco, enjoy the view and peruse the menu featuring delicious Sicilian specialties like fresh tuna or swordfish prepared in a number of ways, pastas featuring seasonal ingredients, several meat dishes, and lovely vegetable dishes and salads. They have a good wine list with reasonably priced local selections. Desserts are also terrific. Everything is prepared in- house and with a deft hand. Service is attentive and the terrace is glorious. If you stay at Villa Ducale, be sure to book in for dinner your first night (at least) as they have limited seating.
Dinner on the terrace, Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.
Simply grilled swordfish at Villa Ducale, Taormina, Sicily.
Breakfast is also served on the terrace, as are complimentary cakes at teatime and appetizers at cocktail hour. There is also a sister property, Villa Carlotta, down in the town of Taormina. It has a pool, which is available to guests at both hotels, and there is a complimentary shuttle that goes between the two as well as to the town.
Unless we were going further afield, as we did when we drove up the Etna, we parked our car at the hotel and relied on public transportation and taxis. Parking is a nightmare in town and the winding, narrow roads are harrowing.
Complimentary cakes are served at teatime at the Villa Ducale, Taormina.
Next up, exploring the town of Taormina. Be prepared for lots of tourists and souvenir shops, but several “must sees” and some hidden treasures!
Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.
The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.
Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.
Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.
How do all these shops stay in business?
Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.
Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.
Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.
La Fontana, Taormina.
Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.
Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.
Taormina, Sicily.
More, more, more.
Modern ceramics are popular, too.
Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.
Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.
This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.
Taking a break in Taormina.
There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.
Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.
The humble but tasty arancino.
Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!
Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.
If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.
The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.
The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.
Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.
700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.
There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.
The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.
The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.
You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.
The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.
If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.
If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.
Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.
Heroic hunting scenes, chariot races, beautiful birds, wild beasts, cherubs, mythical sea creatures, even girls in bikinis—are all here at Villa Romana del Casale depicted in mosaics so vibrant that they almost come to life.
One of the polychrome floor mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale, near Piazza Armerina, Sicily.
Almost in the dead center of Sicily, about 5 km southwest of the town of Piazza Armerina, Villa Romana del Casale is home to the largest, best preserved and most exquisite Roman mosaics anywhere in the world. You won’t come upon these splendid ruins by chance and it is well worth a side trip to see them. We chose to visit the Villa Romana del Casale on our way from Taormina to La Planteta’s La Foresteria near Menfi. You may be scratching your head if you’re looking at a map right now, but for our purposes and itinerary, it seemed the best time to go. It was a very long drive to get here but it was worth it.
The African animals depicted in the mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale show the far reaches of the Roman Empire.
Protected as a UNESCO site since 1997, the Villa was likely constructed in the 4th century, possibly for a Roman senator. The structure was built upon a more rustic villa dating between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. The exacting detail illustrating dress, hairstyle and even footwear, shown in the mosaics’ depictions of daily life, as well as those more fantastical scenes, helped archeologists date the villa’s construction.
Villa Romana del Casale was probably built 4th centuries AD atop an older structure.
The mosaics are so well preserved primarily because they were covered in a mudslide in the 12th century and remained buried until excavations began in the 1950s. Once subject to the elements, the ruins are now covered and walkways connect the four buildings at different elevations, allowing visitors to view many of the intricate mosaic floors from above and at ground level. Various rooms including private apartments, baths, and courtyards are open for viewing. Different themes and mosaic motifs indicate who was most likely to inhabit or use the rooms: adults, children, servants, or guests.
Extensive ruins at Villa Romana del Casale, near Pizza Armerina, Sicily.
Villa Romana del Casale was not at all crowded when we were there in October, but if the enormous car parks and tour bus lots are any indication of the number of visitors that arrive during the busy summer months, beware. Try to go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds and the heat. Please visit the Villa’s website www.villaromanadelcasale.it for updated ticket prices and hours of operation, as well as for downloadable visitor’s guides in English, French and Italian.
Whenever you go, you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse into Imperial Roman daily life, and fantastic flights of fancy, as you view this incredible record of the past preserved in the form of magnificent mosaics.
Note: If you go to see the villa, have a delicious lunch or dinner at nearby AlFogher. We had a lovely multi -course lunch before our visit to the villa. We were told Al Fogher was one of the best restaurants in the area but was not at all busy when we were there. Book a table to be sure you get one if you travel during the high season. There was a cafeteria onsite at the Villa Romana but it was not particularly inviting and most of it was closed—likely because we visited off-season. We were happy to have a cold drink there though. It can get very hot, even in October, in Sicily and the day of our visit was no exception.
A giant golden sun welcomes visitors to Menfi, Sicily.
You won’t find much in the guidebooks about Menfi and there is a reason for this. It is a small, unremarkable town in the Southwest of Sicily with no major tourist attractions but there are several excellent reasons to put it on your itinerary. First off, Menfi is a great base for day trips to Selinunte, Segesta, Erice, Marsala, Trapani and other nearby destinations–there is a lot to explore in this part of Sicily. Second, is that is the Planeta family, known for their highly regarded Sicilian wines, has a lovely, small hotel called La Foresteria located just a few kilometers outside of town. This peaceful oasis is between Menfi and Porto Palo, a small seaside community with beautiful, pristine beaches–more on that later.
Welcome to La Foresteria.
Planeta’s La Foresteria is surrounded by beautiful countryside which leads to the sea.
La Foresteria has simple, well-appointed and comfortable rooms. Ours, named Timo (thyme), had a large bed, small sitting area, ample closet space and a bathroom with a double shower and very nice toiletries. The room also had a mini fridge and a safe. Depending on location, each of the 14 rooms has either a patio or balcony with views out over the vineyards and fields to the sea—very tranquil. Besides birdsong, the only other sounds you’re likely to hear are distant tractors working the land. It is an oasis of tranquility.
We had a typical room at La Foresteria– large, comfortable, simple but well appointed.
Rooms have views from their terraces or patios across the fields and on to the sea.
There is a gorgeous infinity pool if you’re up for a swim or for just lounging around and enjoying a sunset cocktail. The hotel has plenty of comfortable public spaces to relax and read, chat or enjoy the peace and quiet. There is also a small gym on the property.
The inviting pool at La Planeta’s La Foresteria, near Menfi, Sicily.
La Foresteria’s pool is the perfect place to enjoy the sunset and a cocktail.
During the summer season through September, La Foresteria has a private beach club for guests. Friends have given it good reviews and really enjoyed the onsite massage service and lunch but both of our visits have been in October, after the beach club was closed. The weather was still perfect though, and the hotel provided us with beach chairs, towels and umbrellas to use at the nearby beaches.
The beaches in nearby Porto Palo are among the cleanest and most pristine in all of Europe and proudly sport the blue flags awarded by the EU Foundation for Environmental Education proclaiming this. We practically had the beach to ourselves and the water was crystal clear and gloriously warm. Take some time off from touring to relax by the sea.
The area near Menfi is known for its beautiful and pristine beaches.
Another reason to stay at La Foresteria is the incredible cuisine prepared by Chef Angelo Pumilia. He takes full advantage of the fresh seafood and abundant vegetables from the area. The menu, which changes seasonally, features classic Sicilian dishes and while we were there, a number of crudos—raw fish dishes that were all excellent, along with artfully prepared pasta and meat courses.
Dinner is served on the terrace during warmer months. Here Chef Angelo welcomes us back to La Foresteria.
Everything we ate, and we each had three courses most nights, was superb. During our two stays (12 nights) we sampled most items on the menu– swordfish, prawns, mullet, chick pea soup, linguine with sardines, ricotta and mint ravioli, different lamb, beef and pork preparations– all were delicious– but Chef Angelo’s couscous was especially outstanding.
Chef Angelo’s spectacular couscous includes both raw and cooked fish.
The local seafood is prominently featured on the menu…
…and artfully prepared and presented.
Guests may choose from several prix fix options or order a la carte. Whichever choice you make, save room for his sublime desserts. The olive oil ice cream and the Cerasuolo di Vittoria (wine) ice cream were my favorites.
Cerasuolo ice cream makes a perfect dessert.
As expected, the reasonably priced wine list is heavily populated with Planeta offerings, but other producers’ wines are available as well. La Foresteria’s knowledgeable staff will gladly guide you.
Planeta wines dominate the wine list, naturally, but other producers are represented as well.
Breakfast is a lovely affair with a bountiful buffet featuring fresh fruits, cheeses, hams, hard cooked eggs, pastries, cakes, juices, coffee drinks, and tea– all enjoyed on the expansive terrace.
Guests choose their breakfast favorites. Coffee drinks are made to order and served at the table.
This table doubles as the communal dining table for dinner during cooler weather.
Both breakfast and dinner were served outside on the patio on our last visit—a fine way to enjoy the great views and warm weather. On our first stay, only breakfast was available on the patio. Dinner was served inside at a large communal table, which was very convivial, and a great way to meet other guests. We made new friends from Italy, France, Belgium, England, Japan and New Zealand.
Guests enjoy breakfast and beautiful views on La Foresteria’s terrace.
While guests have priority for dining room seating, in the morning you should let the front desk staff know if you plan to dine at La Foresteria that evening. I would also recommend booking if you plan to enjoy dinner the evening you arrive. You wouldn’t want to miss out on Chef Angelo’s outstanding cuisine!
The talented and personable Chef Angelo Pumilia presides over La Foresteria’s kitchen.
If you’d like to learn more about Sicilian cuisine, the hotel offers cooking classes with Chef Angelo. Our schedule couldn’t accommodate a full class so we opted for a “Chat with the Chef” one evening for an hour before dinner. We enjoyed a wonderful conversation in the kitchen with Chef amid the hustle and bustle of the evening’s dinner preparation. The front desk will arrange either of these options for you as well as a visit to Planteta’s nearby wine estate. We had an informative tour, terrific wine tasting and a delicious lunch with Chiara Planeta. It was a memorable afternoon, which ended with a relaxing dip in the pool and a well-deserved nap.
A quiet moment at Da Vittoria, before the lunch crowd.
If you choose to dine off property, try Da Vittoria. This local favorite is less than a 10- minute drive from La Foresteria and is right on the beach. The restaurant specializes in seafood and whole fish dishes in particular. We enjoyed some wonderful pasta dishes including shrimp and pistachios, a red mullet pasta and other equally good seafood pasta combos. Our least favorite was the house pasta combination. The grilled fish was simply prepared but so fresh and delicious —the swordfish in particular.
The excellent shrimp and pistachio pasta at Da Vittoria.
Simple but delicious fishcakes made from local catch.
Mandrossa’s Fiano was a perfect accompaniment to our lunch.
The portions are huge at Da Vittoria. Do not be shy about sharing—just say, “Uno per duo, per favore!” We had several lunches and dinners here and enjoyed the food, the view and the people watching each time. Even though the restaurant is quite large it fills up, so do book in for lunch or dinner.
Take a stroll through the Brandenburg Gate, down Unter den Linden, to the banks of the River Spree. There you’ll find some of the world’s most intriguing and important cultural treasures—the Ishtar Gate, the bust of Nefertiti and so many extraordinary antiquities, classical sculpture and masterworks, it is impossible to imagine they could all be in one place—but they are—Berlin’s Museum Island.
Museumsinsel http://www.smb.museum is home to five separate historical museum buildings, each designed by a well-regarded architect of the time and now part of a UNESCO world heritage site. Here you will find the Pergamonmuseum, Altes (Old) Museum, Alte Nationalgalerie, the Bode-Museum, and the Neues (New) Museum.
The museums on Berlin’s Museumsinsel are a treasure trove of important paintings, sculpture, and antiquities from around the globe.
According to Visit Berlin, more than 3 million people come each year to view the collections that range from prehistory to 20th century art. Savvy travelers will want to purchase a Museum Pass, which provides entry to 50 major and lesser-known museums, including the five on Museum Island, over three consecutive days for one low fee. The price was 24 Euro when we visited in November. Passes are available at Berlin Tourist Info points, in the museums, and online at Shop.visitberlin.com.
The magnificent Ishtar Gate, believed to date from 170 AD, was dedicated to Zeus and Athena. It was brought to Berlin from Western Turkey in 1903.
The long lines and crowded galleries attest to the fact that the Pergamon Museum is on nearly every visitor’s short list of places to visit in Germany’s capitol city. It should be. The magnificent Pergamon Altar, Ishtar Gate, and marvelous sculpture and other works from ancient Sumeria, Babylon, Assyria, and modern day Iraq, Turkey and Syria are all on display here. Restoration is underway on the Ishtar Gate, but it remains open for viewing. The Pergamon Altar was closed for restoration during our recent visit and will reopen in 2019. We were fortunate to see it several years ago.
Detail from the Processional Way, which leads to the Ishtar Gate, at the Pergamon.
Stunning Roman mosaics cover the floor in the gallery that contains the Market Gate of Miletus, built in the 2nd century AD in Turkey and excavated and brought to Berlin in the early 1900s.
The stunning Aleppo Room at the Pergamon, seen through protective glass walls.
Facade of the Caliph Palace Mshatta from Amman/Jordan from the 8th century. The 33 meter long, 5 meter high facade was brought to Berlin in 1903 to the Bode Museum. In 1932 it was reconstructed in the Pergamon.
We practically had the galleries to ourselves when we visited the Bode-Museum in November. This beautiful museum boasts art from the Byzantine and Roman Empires, a spectacular sculpture collection spanning from the early Middle Ages to the late 18th century, and one of the most extensive numismatic collections in the world. We could not understand why the Bode wasn’t full of people enjoying these art treasures.
Pedro Roldan’s Our Lady of Sorrows (Mater Delorosa) at the Bode-Museum.
The Bode-Museum is known for it’s sculpture collection. Friezes, sacred art and other cultural treasures are also on display.
Don’t miss the extensive numismatic collection at the Bode. It’s one of the most comprehensive in the world.
The Bode also has a lovely café where we enjoyed a delicious and very reasonably priced lunch along with views over the Spree. The cafe balcony overlooks the museum’s grand entrance below.
The comfortable cafe at the Bode was perfect for a light lunch.
Save room for dessert!
If Impressionist works are more to your liking, visit the Alte Nationalgalerie, home to 19th century works by Renoir, Manet, Monet, and Cezanne, Adolph von Menzel and other well regarded artists of that time period. The Alte Nationalgalerie was the third museum to open on Museum Island.
The Alte Nationalgalerie is home to a fine collection of 19th century paintings– part of Berlin’s State Art Collection.
Housed in one of Berlin’s most impressive neoclassical buildings, the Altes Museum was dedicated in 1828 by Friedrich Wilhelm III for “the study all antiquities and the free arts”. The museum’s permanent collection centers on classic antiquities covering Etruscan, Roman and Greek art and includes urns, vases, sarcophagi, friezes, pottery and sculpture.
The Altes Museum is a popular destination for student and tour groups.
The 3300 year-old bust of Nefertiti is among the highlights at the Neues Museum, or New Museum. After sustaining significant damage during World War II, the building, which was designed by Friedrich August Stuler and constructed between 1843 and 1855, was abandoned. In 2003, extensive restoration began and the museum opened in 2009 with three main collections—Egyptian art from the Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection, prehistoric objects from the Museum for Prehistory and Early History, and classical antiquities. Visitors will find works from around the globe including the Middle East, North Africa, and Northern Europe at the Neues Museum.
For updated information on each of the museums on Berlin’s Museum Island and details on permanent collections, temporary exhibitions, admission, hours and directions, please visit http://www.smb.museum.
Note: The banner image is the Cathedral of Berlin known also as Berlin Dom, located on Museum Island. In addition to church services, the Berlin Dom is open for tours. Numerous concerts and other events are also held there throughout the year. To the right is the Berlin TV Tower, constructed by the Soviets during the Cold War and now a popular tourist destination.
You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.
When we first visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.
Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.
The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.
As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.
Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.
The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.
Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.
The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.
Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.
We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.
Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi when you visit. It is not possible to climb them any more.
The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.
You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.
Visitors used to be able to relax and enjoy the unparalleled view from the top of the Turkish Steps.
The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!
UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.
If you enjoy a walk on the wilder side, visit Portland’s Hoyt Arboretum. Just up the hill in Washington Park from the refined and well-manicured Japanese Garden, nature lovers will find 12 miles of rustic trails that run through the 187-acre park.
Visitors can explore 12 miles of rustic trails, many fairly rugged. There are two miles of trails suitable for strollers and wheelchairs.
Trails are well marked and lead to “family” groupings of trees.
The Hoyt Arboretum boasts 6,000 plants and trees representing 1,100 species and it’s free to visit. The trees, first planted in the 1930s by John W. Duncan, are grouped with others they are related to, in areas closest to their natural, native habitat.
The Hoyt Arboretum is a nature lover’s paradise in Portland’s Washington Park.
Visitors can meander down the Magnolia Trail to the Magnolia Grove or view a broad array of holly on the Holly Loop. You’ll find Oak Trail, Beech Trail, Maple Trail, Hawthorn Trail, Walnut Trail, Redwood Trail, Bristlecone Pine Trail— you get the picture. If you have a favorite kind of tree, chances are you can find it here, along with its closest relatives.
Volcano Vista is one of many scenic spots in the 187-acre “living museum.” Mt. Ranier, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood are off in the distance.
Be aware that many of the trails are fairly rugged and not well suited to people with ambulatory challenges. There are, however, two miles of trails appropriate for strollers, wheelchairs and less sure-footed visitors. Be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes for your Arboretum adventure.
The Magnolia Grove was a personal favorite. There are so many varieties of this beautiful flowering tree to enjoy at the Hoyt Arboretum.
The Hoyt Arboretum hosts 90-minute tours on many Saturdays, but it’s best to call or check the website www.hoytarboretum.org to confirm the schedule. In the autumn, there are Fall Color Tours and during April, which is Arbor Month, volunteer docents guide visitors on the Magnolia and Spring Blossom Tours. A $3 donation is suggested for the tours. Check with the Arboretum for other tours and events throughout the year.
Check out the guided Magnolia and Spring Blossoms tours, held on Saturdays in the Spring.
The Hoyt Arboretum is pet and family friendly. We encountered a number of families with cavorting canines and energetic children frolicking in the meadow areas.
Daffodils, a sure harbinger of Spring, were blooming in the Winter Garden during our recent visit.
The Visitor Center, which includes a small nature center and a research library, was closed when we visited, but the restrooms were open. There were brochures available, which included handy trail maps.
There was something to delight the eye in every area of the Hoyt Arboretum. This is a view of the Winter Garden.
There is a Winter Garden to explore and a picnic area when you’re ready for a break. There are no cafes or restaurants on the Arboretum’s grounds so come prepared. We often stop by Elephant’s Deli on NW 22nd Avenue. It’s a great place to pick up provisions on your way to Washington Park. You can order everything from pizza to black bean burgers, prepared while you wait, or order ahead for sandwiches, sack lunches, full picnics, and platters. They also have “grab and go” items, a full bakery, and plenty of specialty foods and gift items. A complete menu is available at www.elephantsdeli.com.
Specialty foods, full picnics, platters, pre-packaged salads and sandwiches, side dishes, baked goods and more are on offer at Elephant’s Deli.
Get a pizza, fried chicken, burgers and other entrees to bring to the park or enjoy before you go. There are no dining facilities at the Hoyt Arboretum so be prepared.
There is a small pay parking lot at the entrance to the Hoyt Arboretum or take the free Washington Park shuttle bus up from the transit center (Max Red or Blue lines to Washington Park). The complimentary shuttle runs around the park from April through October. For current information, please visit www.explorewashingtonpark.org and enjoy your walk in the woods in this remarkable spot in Portland.
Gorgeous grounds, stunning views and an authentic Japanese experience have been delighting visitors to Portland’s spectacular Japanese Garden since 1963. Now, the beautiful 12-acre oasis, which includes five separate gardens with plenty of peaceful seating areas for reflection, a Japanese Tea House, tranquil ponds, and meandering paths perfect for contemplation, has even more to offer. Last month the new $33.5 million Cultural Crossing opened to visitors.
Follow the footpaths, steps and bridges that lead to each of the separate and distinctive garden spaces within Portland’s Japanese Garden.
The new $33.5 million Cultural Crossings expansion project includes new exhibition space, library, tea house and additional garden areas, all designed to enhance the authentic Japanese experience for visitors.
Designed by respected architect Kengo Kuma, the Cultural Crossing’s new buildings provide the perfect showcase for traditional Japanese arts and culture and serve as a venue for family-friendly activities and interesting demonstrations. An already popular attraction is even more appealing with the new expansion project. No wonder the lines for tickets are long. Purchase tickets online and check-in at the membership desk, exchange your voucher for a ticket there, and avoid the serpentine lines that are sure to continue for some time.
Minutes away from Portland’s busy streets, the Portland Japanese Garden is an oasis of tranquility.
Many visitors take the complimentary shuttle up to the gardens and walk back down to the parking area along the paved pathways.
Visitors can either take a complimentary shuttle bus or walk up the pathway to the open and airy Japanese Arts Learning Center–the heart of the new project with performance space, library and classroom.
Young visitors take a break on the steps inside the new Jordan Schnitzer Japanese Arts Learning Center.
The ground level Tanabe Gallery currently hosts an exhibition of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro.
A delightful display of ceramics, calligraphy, and sculpture by former Japanese Prime Minister Hosokawa Morihiro are currently on exhibit in the Tanabe Gallery and Pavilion Gallery.
The expansive display, Hosokawa Morihiro: The Art of Life, a Rebirth in Clay, continues in the Pavilion Gallery, which also includes a portable teahouse. Two additional “Art in the Garden” showcases, one featuring Kabuki costumes and the other, Noh masks and costumes, are scheduled for later in the year. The Japanese Garden will host related events and activities associated with both.
A portable tea house with the implements needed to perform a classic Japanese tea ceremony are part of the current exhibition. Noh masks and costumes and Kabuki costumes will be featured in the galleries later this year.
Now, to explore these magnificent gardens! The Strolling Pond Garden was our first stop, after a visit to the Learning Center and Gallery. Visitors can walk across the “iconic Moon Bridge” over the Upper Pond and enjoy the views.
Stroll the “Zig-Zag Bridge” over the Lower Pond which is surrounded by iris. It had not quite bloomed at the time of our visit, but was close. The aptly named Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop to the Lower Pond and were a popular “selfie stop.”
The Heavenly Falls provide the perfect backdrop for contemplation or photo opps.
Follow the rough stepping stones along a lantern- lined path through the beautiful Japanese Tea Garden to the authentic Kashintei Tea House. Typically, the tea garden is a place to appreciate nature’s beauty and “the art of living in harmony” while leaving the cares of the world behind. This is certainly the case at the Portland Japanese Garden—it is so serene it’s easy to forget you are mere minutes from busy city streets.
Visitors are invited to leave their worldly cares behind when they explore the authentic tea garden and Kashintei Tea House.
The Kashintei Tea House, which is where tea demonstrations and related events are held, was brought to Portland from Japan and reassembled here.
Contact the Japanese Garden to learn when tea demonstrations and other events are scheduled for the Kashintei Tea House.
The Portland Japanese Garden has a lovely Sand and Stone Garden, created by Professor Takuma Tono, the Garden’s chief designer in the 1960s. These“dry landscape” gardens are sometimes called “Zen Gardens” because they are often found at Zen monasteries and are meant to invite quiet contemplation. The Sand and Stone Garden here illustrates an important Japanese concept—“the beauty of blank space.”
Enjoy your moments of Zen at the Sand and Stone Garden.
Recent additions to Portland’s Japanese Garden include the Natural Garden, which features local plants not typically associated with Japanese gardens and depicts seasonal change.
The cherry blossoms were in full bloom during our recent visit to Portland’s Japanese Garden.
The small courtyard garden (Tsubo-Niwa) and the Ellie M. Hill Bonsai Terrace are both new and located near the Tateuchi Courtyard in the Cultural Village.
Visitors are treated to an exquisite display of bonsai at the new Ellie M.Hill Bonsai Terrace.
The Flat Garden, which highlights each of the four seasons with specific plantings and trees is popular with visitors. The weeping cherry tree on the left represents spring while a 100- year old maple depicts autumn.
The Flat Garden is meant to be viewed from a single angle either from inside a home, where the door or window serves as a frame, or from a verandah, as these visitors are doing.
The gravel stands in for water, signifying summer in the Flat Garden.
After you’ve finished strolling around the gorgeous gardens and interesting exhibitions, stop in and sample the fare at the new Umami Café. During our visit, just a week after the April 2 reopening, the café was not yet serving food but was offering complimentary samples of four delicious teas from Tokyo-based Jugetsudo Tea Company. (Update– Light snacks and sweets were available on subsequent visits.)
Stop in the new Umami Cafe for a restorative cup of tea and authentic Japanese sweets and snacks.
During our visit, guests were offered four different and delicious teas as part of a complimentary tea tasting.
When His Excellency Nobuo Matsunaga, the former Ambassador of Japan to the United States, visited the Portland Japanese Garden, he proclaimed it “the most beautiful and authentic Japanese garden in the world outside of Japan,” according to the organization.
Tranquil settings such as this one near the Upper Pond, have been drawing visitors since 1963.
They currently report more than 350,000 visitors annually, a number that will surely grow with the addition of the new Cultural Crossroads expansion. Be sure to add this spectacularly beautiful and serene spot to your Portland itinerary. For updated information on tickets, events and hours click here.
Oregon’s Wine Country is only about an hour drive from downtown Portland, so some people consider it a day trip. That’s one idea, and we hope they use a designated driver, but we like to settle in for a few days and get to know a place. We talked about visiting the Willamette Valley’s wineries in a recent post. Here’s some practical advice on where to eat, sleep and enjoy the area.
Location, Location…
We’ve chosen McMinnville as our wine country base twice. It’s right in the heart of the Willamette Valley AVA with its nearly 600 wineries, there are a plenty of lodging options, and most important, there are a lot of places to eat (and drink), all within walking distance.
Whether you’re interested in a stroll around town to wineries with tasting rooms right in the downtown or you’re more into pints than Pinot Noir, there’s a lot to choose from in McMinnville. Wineries, breweries, coffee shops, a tea house, restaurants, bistros, bars, bakeries, pizzerias and an ice cream parlor line Third Street, the main thoroughfare in this historic town. There are boutiques, galleries, and shops for souvenirs and necessities. From May to October—there’s a wonderful Thursday Farmer’s Market with everything from handmade soaps to home baked pies.
Pie really does fix everything!
McMinnville’s Thursday Farmers Market has something for everyone.
McMinnville also hosts annual events like the International Pinot Noir Celebration, Walnut City Music Festival, Turkey Rama, an old-fashioned Starlight Parade to kick off the holiday season, and the UFO Festival. The latter, billed as “the most popular UFO Festival in the world” is on my list to visit someday. See photos of past events here. For a relatively small town, there’s a lot going on here.
Go ahead. Eat the cupcake.
Work off those calories with a bike ride or a hike.
There’s plenty of hiking, biking, and picnicking to be done, even if there aren’t any events happening.
Hungry?
Whatever your palate or pocketbook, there’s something here to satisfy. What follows is our personal recommendations– not an exhaustive list of McMinnville’s dining spots.
Thistle
Thistle’s menu reflects the seasons and highlights local growers.
Our hands down favorite for dinner is Thistle, an intimate restaurant just off Third Street. Thistle serves memorable meals with ingredients sourced uber locally. The menu changes frequently to reflect what’s available seasonally and it’s written on a chalk board; purveyors are listed at the bottom, so you know who grew your food.
We loved everything we tried including this delectable rabbit dish.
Oregon wines dominate the list.
You’ll find starters like Netarts Bay oysters and mains like rockfish with fennel, oxalis, yogurt and fava pods or rabbit with collard greens, turnip and spring onion. The wine list favors Oregon producers and the waitstaff are friendly and helpful. Reservations are necessary. Thistle is a very small space and hugely popular with locals and visitors. Fun fact—the restaurant was named for the thistle wallpaper the owner spotted when designing the space.
Red Hills Kitchen
The restaurant is in the Atticus Hotel (more about that later), and like most in McMinnville, focuses on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. They tweak classic dishes like Shepard’s Pie using tenderloin of beef. The meatloaf was delicious and nothing like your mother made, we promise.
Red Hills Kitchen’s tasty version of Shepard’s Pie.
Try anything cooked in the Josper oven, like this cod.
The Josper oven uses charcoal and imparts a lovely smokey element to dishes.
Red Hills Kitchen has a massive Josper oven that uses the same Thaan charcoal Portland’s Pok Pok uses. It imparts a subtle smoky flavor to the dishes, like the roasted beets, cod, and pork shoulder on the menu when we dined. Fancy donuts are available at dinner and the bucket of mini donuts can be had at breakfast, lunch and to go. Get some!
Check out Red Hills Kitchen’s Happy Hour.
They have a solid wine list with plenty of local wines to choose from and a fun cocktail list. Red Hills Kitchen also has a Happy Hour with drink and food specials. We had dinner twice in as many nights here in March.
Red Hills Market is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic provisions.
Red Hills Market in nearby Dundee, which is affiliated with the Red Hills Kitchen, is our go-to for sandwiches and picnic supplies. They also make wood-fired pizza, but it wasn’t available on our visits.
In addition to good food, you can pick up fun gifts or souvenirs.
They’ve got cheeses, baked goods, and fancy foods, plus tea towels, coffee mugs and other kitchen-related items that make great gifts or souvenirs. The Market is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and also serves wine and beer.
Nick’s Italian Cafe
Nick’s is on everyone’s McMinnville list because it’s good—-and Nick was a James Beard Award Winner. His daughter runs the restaurant now but it’s still one of the most popular places in town. This is where to go for house made pastas, wood fired pizza and classic Italian specialties. The place is always packed so if it’s Dungeness lasagna or a pizza bianca you’re craving, be sure to book a table.
Dungeness crab lasagna. Need we say more?
Everybody goes to Nick’s.
The wine list features Italian varietals from Tuscany, Piemonte and Southern Italy as well as local vintages from Oregon producers.
3rd Street Pizza Co.
Pop into 3rd Street Pizza for pie, calzone and wings.
If you want a pizza in a casual setting and are thinking of seeing a movie, too, you can get both at 3rd Street Pizza. Delicious, classic, hand- tossed pies are available in sizes ranging from 10” to family-friendly 18” pizzas. They also have sandwiches, salads, calzones and wings. We focused on the pizza.
Hand tossed, classic pizza– and a movie!
There is a movie theater in the rear of the restaurant, and you can enjoy your food while you watch the show. After 5 p.m., guests over 21 can order alcoholic drinks to bring into the theater. There is an admission fee for the movies. Note—please check the theater schedule online.
Bistro Maison
Fancy French cuisine? Traditional French bistro items like escargot, coq au vin, steak au poivre and cassoulet await guests at Bistro Maison. The dining room is as classic as the bistro menu and draws a crowd. There is also garden seating, but we took a table indoors. There were a lot of people celebrating occasions the night we dined, which created a festive atmosphere.
Crab cocktail made a great starter.
Classic bistro fare like this chicken with morels made our night.
Save room for dessert.
The wine list is international. Local producers and French bottlings get top billing, but Australia, New Zealand, and Argentina all make a showing. Service is attentive and we enjoyed a very pleasant evening. Bistro Maison serves lunch and dinner.
Pura Vida Cocina
Local friends suggested lunch at Pura Vidaand we’re glad they did. It wasn’t easy to choose from the seasonal Latin American specialties like arepas, empanadas and tacos so we tried a few things and shared them. The tortillas are handmade and when stuffed with the barbocoa beef—delicious! Wine, beer and cocktails are available and while those margaritas were tempting, we didn’t indulge.
What’s for lunch? Home-made tortillas filled with fresh, delicious ingredients.
The restaurant is very casual but there is interesting art on the walls. It’s a popular place so book a table for lunch or dinner.
Java Joints
Red Fox has coffee, pastries, sandwiches and more.
Two places we like for coffee are Flag and Wireand The Red Fox Bakery. The latter also serves sandwiches and light fare, but we were all about the coffee and pastry. We liked the coffee so much at Flag and Wire, we bought some to take out to the coast with us and more to bring home.
Ice Cream
We had unseasonably hot weather on our first trip to McMinnville and the truth is, even if we didn’t, we’d still want ice cream. The line was out the door at Serendipity Ice Cream, but it was worth the wait for the two dozen flavors of made-in-Oregon ice cream and house made waffle cones. They serve sundaes, specialty desserts and fresh baked cookies, too.
Ice cream worth the wait.
We also indulged at the Cream ice cream truck at the Thursday McMinnville Farmer’s Market. Once again there was a line, but the fun flavors and homemade ice cream was worth it!
And Now to Sleep
The elegant Atticus Hotel’s front desk.
McMinnville has elegant, eclectic, budget and bucolic lodging options. On the outskirts of town, you’ll find big budget chains like Red Lion Inn, Best Western and Comfort Inn. In the eclectic category there’s the very quirky The Vintages– a vintage trailer “resort” or the McMenamins Hotel Oregonwith shared bathrooms but a bustling rooftop bar. There are also bed and breakfast options and vacation homes for rent. We chose none of those.
Third Street Flat’s Pearl.
The Third Street Flats got our vote, twice. Owned by the same people behind the elegant Atticus Hotel, the Third Street Flats are eleven different apartments of varying sizes and décor in two downtown McMinnville buildings. The flats all have kitchens and sitting areas with bedrooms to accommodate groups from two to six.
The Pearl’s colorful sleeping area.
We stayed in the Pearl our first time, in the historic McMinnville Bank Building. There’s not a bank there anymore but there’s a hair salon, a bar called The Bitter Monk and La Rambla, a Spanish restaurant on the ground floor. There’s street parking available and the Thursday Farmer’s Market is right down the street. Unfortunately, we came home several evenings to find that the parking lot behind the building is a gathering spot for some folks who appeared to be down on their luck. Management is working on this issue. The apartment was very comfortable and nicely furnished and decorated. We got a peek at some of the larger units and they all look exactly as presented on the website.
We loved the crisp navy and white decor in the Indigo flat.
We had plenty of room to relax and a full kitchen in the Indigo flat.
The Oddfellows Lodge is right next door to the Atticus Hotel and that’s where we slept on our second trip to the Willamette Valley. We chose the Indigo flat for this visit. We loved the crisp blue and white décor, hardwood floors, fireplace and the full kitchen in this flat. We didn’t do much cooking, but it was nice to know we could. The location was perfect for us and we found on street parking easily. Best of all, Red Hills Kitchen was right next door in the hotel. We also found it handy to pop in and talk to the concierge at the Atticus—everyone behind the front desk was warm, welcoming and had plenty of great tips for enjoying Oregon’s wine country.
We learned a lot of fun facts about McMinnville aka Walnut City at the Atticus Hotel. This historic display is in the lobby area. The walnuts in the bowls are for munching.
A guest room at the Atticus.
The Bunkhouse is the perfect solution for groups of up to six traveling together.
Though we didn’t stay in the Atticus, they were kind enough to show us some rooms and share some historic background on the property and the town. Where ever you stay and whatever you choose to do during your visit to this delightful region, you’re sure to enjoy your time here. Please let me know about your discoveries!
Please check individual websites for updates and further information.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
All materials published by TravelTawk.com including this article and photographs are protected by US Copyright laws.
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I’m no wine expert but I enjoy drinking it and learning about it. In my thirst for knowledge (couldn’t resist) I’ve been lucky enough to visit wineries and talk to wine makers in many of the world’s most important wine growing regions from the slopes of Sicily’s Mt. Etna to the chalky soil to Champagne and here in California, of course. After visiting Portland regularly for years; we were way overdue for a trip to explore Oregon’s Willamette Valley.
It’s just about an hour drive from downtown to Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley.
It’s little more than an hour drive from downtown Portland to the heart of the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA and home to nearly 600 wineries. As much as I adore a good Pinot Noir, Oregon winemakers are producing other award-winning varietals including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and lately, Gamay, as well as those prize- winning Pinots.
There are nearly 600 wineries in the Willamette Valley, Oregon’s largest AVA.
I was as impressed with the wines we tasted as I was with the casual, “walk-ins welcome” vibe at many of the wineries we visited on several recent trips to Oregon’s wine country. Tasting room staff were passionate about the wines they were pouring and eager to share their knowledge everywhere we went.
Knowledgeable staff made wine tasting fun and educational at Saffron Fields Vineyards, shown here, and at the other wineries we visited.
My last visit was just days before the Covid-19 shelter order closed restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and all those winery tasting rooms. Now that things are slowly reopening, I circled back with some of the wineries we visited to find out what people can expect post -pandemic.
Reservations, masks, social distancing, and contactless payment are some of the differences visitors to this gorgeous wine growing region will notice, but it can still be a wonderful experience.
Things will be different for the foreseeable future for wineries large and small, but all were in agreement with a number of “new normal” requirements: Drop- in visits are largely a thing of the past. Most wineries now require reservations be booked online for timed tastings that will last between 60 and 90 minutes. Masks are mandatory, unless you are seated, and staff will be masked throughout the tasting. Social distancing will be enforced. Most wineries have moved the tasting experience outdoors. Tastings will be staggered to allow thorough cleaning and sanitizing between groups. Menus will be laminated for easy disinfection or single use paper menus will be provided. Hand sanitizer will be readily available. Outside food is no longer allowed at most wineries. Most wineries are using contactless chip readers for purchases i.e. no cash. Everybody is working hard to keep the wine tasting experience safe and fun.
Here’s what I learned from individual wineries I contacted:
Argyle Winery
Let’s start with bubbles. Argyle is Oregon’s premier producer of sparkling wines and they make excellent still wines as well. The award-winning winery has a big, beautiful tasting facility with plenty of outdoor space. Argyle is one of the first wineries you’ll encounter heading west on the 99 from Portland. Plan to stop.
Argyle’s Tasting House is a large comfortable space but for now, wine tastings will be held outdoors. Reservations are required, as they are almost everywhere now.
The Tasting House has re-opened and will welcome groups of eight or fewer by reservation only. Hours are the same as pre-pandemic—Monday-Thursday 11 am-5pm; Friday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm, but less seating is available due to social distancing regulations.
To streamline the wine tasting experience, Argyle is offering two flights—a selection of the varietals they produce, such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, and one that is all sparkling (my favorite). They also offer by-the-glass and half-glass pours. Try the brut rose! Tasting flights are $20-$30 per person.
A wine club member created this low- touch wine flight delivery system using barrel staves. Photo courtesy Argyle Winery.
“We have reduced the flight options in an effort to minimize glassware used, and we have a cool delivery system for the flights that involves a barrel stave that holds the glasses and lets us deliver flights to the table without having to touch them. One of our club members made them. Innovation is everywhere during times like these,” says Argyle’s Cathy Martin.
There’s plenty of room to relax outdoors and enjoy Argyle’s award-winning wines.
“We have had lots of reservations, and everyone seems to be very understanding of the situation. We really wanted to get the process down to make sure visitors felt comfortable and welcome,” adds Cathy.
Argyle also offers curbside pick-up for online wine orders.
Saffron Fields Vineyards
We weren’t familiar with Saffron Fields Vineyards, but it was highly recommended by the concierge at the Atticus Hotel in McMinnville, so we took a drive to Yamhill. We spent a leisurely afternoon at Saffron Fields, enjoying their stunning Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays in one of the loveliest tasting rooms we’d visited. The tasting room is surrounded by Japanese gardens, designed by Hoichi Kurisu, the former director of the acclaimed Japanese Gardens in Portland. Like everywhere else in the valley, the pandemic has caused operational changes at this former dairy farm.
Saffron Field’s tasting room is surrounded by serene Japanese gardens.
Saffron Fields is by appointment only now, wine club members included. Andrea Feero says, “We are pleased to have reopened to the public and are happy to see guests fill our patio once again. Our tasting room hosts are still providing the same warm welcome and hospitality as before.”
“If guests arrive early, they are asked to wait in their vehicle until they are notified that their table is ready. Most tastings will occur outside, but we do have space inside the tasting room if needed or requested. All tastings are seated flights. Additionally, we offer bottle purchases for onsite consumption on the lawn, this is what we are calling our Alfresco Experience on the Lawn. This experience is ideal for 5-10 people,” says Andrea.
Tastings will take place outside at Saffron Fields and reservations are required.
Children and dogs were welcome at Saffron Fields pre-Covid-19, but Andrea adds, “We love both, but I am not sure how we will move forward with this and are taking it as a case by case approach. Regrettably, both open the door to encroachment of the six-foot rule that we are trying to follow.”
A standard tasting is $25, and guests should allow 60-90 minutes. For reservations please contact [email protected] or call 503.662.5323.
Hazelfern Cellars
We have friends who are friends with the owners at Hazelfern Cellars, so naturally we planned a visit. We already knew how terrific their Pinot Noir was and were looking forward to trying the current release as well as their Chardonnay. With our reservation confirmed, off to Newberg we went!
We enjoyed our private wine tasting in Hazelfern’s beautiful barn.
Hazelfern has one of the nicest barns I’ve ever seen and that’s where proprietor Laura Laing met us for our private tasting experience. They also have an outdoor tasting area, which uses local hazelnut shells as a ground cover– sustainable, practical and attractive! As expected, we thoroughly enjoyed the wines Laura poured. I checked back with her to see what changes the pandemic has created.
“We’ve always been by reservation, so we have been able to adapt pretty seamlessly. We have been utilizing a reservation system for a number of years now and will continue to do so. This helps us plan and limit the number of people in each group, currently limited to 10 or fewer. We have designated reservation times of 11 am, 1 pm and 3 pm and allow for multiple reservations at a time because luckily, our space is so large. We are not currently accepting walk-ins. Tastings are $25 per person and guests can expect about five wines during the tasting,” Laura says.
“Sadly, we are not facilitating tours or activities that have folks moving about the winery. Hopefully that will be back soon though! We’ve been utilizing both indoor and outdoor seating when weather permits. The tasting itself is about 60 minutes and we ask guests to depart by 90 minutes to allow for deep cleaning between groups.”
Hazelfern has plenty of space for outdoor tastings. The ground cover is local hazelnut shells–sustainable and attractive.
“Overall everyone has been so amazing, respectful, kind and so understanding of the new guidelines as we work to keep everyone safe and stocked up on wine, “ Laura adds.
Oregon is rightly famous for their Pinot Noirs but when you’re ready for a break, head to Remy Winery. Known for their Italian varietals, Remy’s tasting room is in a friendly yellow farmhouse in the Dundee Hills.
Pre-pandemic, we dropped in and had a terrific tasting experience with Hannah, their Hospitality Director. Like many wineries in the valley, Remy is now open for by appointment only, Friday through Monday for groups of six or fewer.
Remy is known for Italian varietals.
“We were always more limited by number due to our small tasting room and bathroom facility. Tasting appointments are staggered so that no more than one party will arrive at one time, with an hour and a half allotted to each tasting. No more than 22 people would be in the process of tasting at one time,” says Remy’s Erin Butler.
Social distance- appropriate barrels are set up around the property to serve as tables for outside wine tasting. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.
All tastings will be conducted outside. Wine barrels are set up throughout the yard, more than 20 feet apart. There are also tasting spots on the covered front porch and at the picnic table. The tasting fee is $20 per person. Barbera, Dolcetto, Lagrein, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris may be among the wines you’ll be poured.
“We have these cute tasting trays that Hannah’s husband built for us. Four carafes fit in line and are filled according to the number of tasters in the party. Guests pour the wine (1 oz per person) into their own glasses, limiting the number of contacts. The flights (four wines) change each week, with a selection of white, rosé and reds,” Erin adds.
Hospitality Director Hannah Graham (left), and owner Remy Drabkin, show off their new wine flight delivery system, built by Hannah’s husband. Guest will pour from carafes themselves, limiting contact with staff. Photo courtesy Remy Wines.
Remy usually hosts events during the summer months. This year will be different, but the winery is not giving up.
“We are getting creative and really sorting through those things now. The property is large, so we are still moving ahead with two of our al fresco dining experiences. The first is our partnership with Pittsburgh’s Black Radish Kitchen. We had about 10 guests coming from Pittsburgh, and they will now be having their own experience in Pittsburgh with BRK. Locals will still come to the property, and we will be mirroring BRK menu with chefs here (most likely Remy; she’s a great cook!). Rather than one big table, we will be breaking them up into smaller tables,” Erin says.
Remy often hosts outdoor special events during summer months and will continue to do so this year, respecting new public health regulations.
Plans are also underway for the Bounty of Yamhill County dinner, and the Opera on the Lawn. “We’re keeping it fun, creative and safe. One of Remy’s greatest gifts has always been her creativity and can-do attitude,” says Erin.
Remy no longer offers food for purchase or allows outside food to be consumed on site, but they do have “porch pick -up” every day for wines ordered online.
For reservation requests visit [email protected] or 503.412.8387. A $30 deposit will be taken and applied to tasting fees and/or wine purchases, ensuring a no-touch check-out process.
Day Wines at Day Camp
Just before the shutdown, we stopped by Day Camp’s spacious tasting facility and enjoyed Day Wines’ petillant naturalle (sparkling) and Peridot- a 90% syrah and 10% viognier blend, along with her perfect- for- everyday Vin de Days, both blanc and rouge.
Brianne Day’s wines are made from grapes sourced from grower partners with biodynamic and/or organic practices.
Day Camp is now open for tastings Wednesday through Sunday from 11 am-5 pm but reservations are necessary for parties of six people or more. The winery plans to use Open Table for bookings soon. Walk-ins are still welcome.
Day Wines will soon use Open Table for tasting bookings.
“It has definitely been an unusual time for us where we have had to make quite a few adjustments to how we typically run things here at Day Wines. But we are making it work. We’re very fortunate that we have a large patio area, with a lot of covered spots. We have heaters for when the Oregon rain hits, and even an outdoor fireplace for just chilly days. We feel very lucky for that, since we are not doing any tastings in our actual tasting room. Everything is outside now,” says Leyla.
Durant at Red Hill Farms was recommended by our host at Day Wines and was another we dropped by to visit. The estate wines here include Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Rose of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris. We particularly enjoyed the Pinot Noirs we tried and the Sauv Blanc and Pinot Gris were perfect for the unseasonably hot weather we were having. We were also impressed with the sensational views and expansive grounds, which include beautiful lavender fields, a plant nursery and Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill.
We dropped in to Durant for a wine tasting prior to the pandemic.
Durant is the only winery I contacted that hasn’t reopened to the public for tastings yet, but they are welcoming back their wine and olive oil club members now.
Erin Rapp explains, “Wine and olive oil club members will need reservations and are limited to groups of six people. There is no tasting fee for members, but the time limit is 90 minutes per group. Tastings are currently available Friday through Monday, outside only, and there is food for purchase that can be consumed on property. Wine is also available for purchase by the bottle for on-site consumption.”
Durant has been operating Oregon’s only commercial olive oil mill since 2008. Tours are complimentary but reservations are required.
Durant’s olive oil mill is open for complimentary tours by reservation only. Guests will soon have the opportunity to enjoy touchless olive oil tastings in the shop, Erin says.
Wine tasting is not yet available to the public, but walking trails, the plant nursery, and the shop are open daily from 11 am to 4 pm.
The plant nursery, shop, grounds, and the walking trail are all open to the public during business hours. The winery offers pick-up at the farm for online purchases, daily from 11 am to 4 pm and they’ll deliver orders of $100 or more to Salem, Portland and Vancouver (WA).
For updated information visit shop.redridgefarms.com or call 503.864.2000 x 2 for curbside service.
Terra Vina
Terra Vina is one of a number of smaller wineries with tasting rooms in historic downtown McMinnville. Guests can taste varietals like Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Merlot, and Petite Verdot. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling may also be on Terra Vina’s rotation.
Terra Vina’s seating can accommodate groups of up to six. Reservations are required for one-hour seated tastings but walk- Ins are welcome if a table is available.
Terra Vina has taken a number of measures to ensure visitors enjoy their wine tasting safely. “Our tasting room has been reconfigured to allow guests to maintain a safe social distance from other parties. To minimize contact between our team and guests, we will be serving multiple wines in the flight at the same time. We will be using limited contact protocols for all transactions and will only be accepting credit card payment (no cash),” says Carole Dinger.
Terra Vina’s wines are available for sale at their McMinnville tasting room.
Currently, the McMinnville tasting room welcomes guests with reservations Fridays and Saturdays from 12-6pm and Sundays from 12-4pm. Tastings are $15 per person. Their Wilsonville vineyard tasting room will be open the second and fourth Saturday of the month from 12-6 pm. Vineyard tours will not be available until a later date. Lawn seating will be available for bottle/glass consumption.
Summing It All Up
Things are changing day by day. Check in with the wineries you plan to visit. Be patient– everyone is doing their best to deliver a safe and fun experience!
Here’s the pandemic playbook–Wear your mask, wash your hands, respect social distancing, and be sure to check with individual wineries for reservations and updates before heading out for a tasting. Please be patient. In these fast-changing times, everyone’s doing the best they can. Cheers!
PS If you’d like some practical information on where to stay, eat and play in Oregon’s Wine Country click here.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
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