Family Fun

Want a Quick Bite? Try Florence’s Mercato Centrale

Craving a cappucino and a cornetto? Need a bouquet of fresh flowers or picnic provisions? How about fresh pasta to enjoy at home? Or maybe you’re just in the mood for pizza and a beer? Florence’s Central Market or Mercato Centrale Firenze is Florence’s answer to foodie heaven. Housed in a historic building originally erected in 1847, and open from 10 a.m. to midnight, this is the place to go.

Pick up picnic provisions like salami, cheeses, prosciutto and more at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

Fresh pastas and delicious sauces to go with them make a tasty and quick meal that’s easy to prepare in your vacation rental.

The market on the ground floor is fun to explore with every kind of seasonal produce, pastas, sauces, meats, cheeses, and flowers. Anything you could want that’s fresh and in season is right here.

The Mercato Centrale has a bounty of seasonal produce, herbs and fresh flowers.

Upstairs at the Mercato Centrale is one of our favorite stops for for lunch, though you can also have breakfast, snacks, sweets, drinks and dinner here.

Neapolitan-style pizza is done right at La Pizzeria Sud.

Go get some terrific Neapolitan style pizza at Pizzeria Sud. You can take your slices to one of the communal tables or go upstairs for table service. We opted for the former and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the place.

Lunch is ready!

There are lots of tasty options– pasta, panini, cheese and meat platters, fish, pizza, even burgers and fried chicken to choose from. There is also a coffee bar, wine, beer, pastries, gelato and delicious desserts–something to please most any palate.

Choose your favorite foods from the array of vendors upstairs at the market and grab a seat at the communal tables. Mangia!

Everything on offer here from the hamburgers made from Chianina beef at La Toraia di Enrico Lagorio, the pasta from Raimondo Mendolia, Maurizio e Poala Rosellini’s fresh fish, the bufala mozzarella, beautiful baked goods, chocolates and gelato are all of the highest quality.

A great selection of fresh or aged cheeses to eat now or enjoy later are readily available.

If you’re looking to really splash out, try these fragrant truffles.

If your tastes run more to fried foods, you’re in luck.

We even sampled the trippa fritta—fried tripe, a Florentine favorite, though not to my taste.

Trippa fritta is a Florentine favorite.

After lunch (or dinner), you’ll probably want coffee and something sweet. Please remember that no self-respecting Italian would even consider ordering a cappuccino, latte or similar milky coffee drink after breakfast hours. Stick to the espresso. Ask for a caffe lungo if you miss your American coffee. Desserts are in abundance here and include gelato, pastries, cookies, and cannoli, which are stuffed while you wait—as they should be. Crushed pistachios on the ends are optional.

These confections look almost too good to eat. Almost…

Upstairs is also where you’ll find Eataly, which features Italian grocery items, household goods, personal care items and my favorite Florentine soaps from Nesti Dante. You’ll also find a wine shop specializing in Chianti Classico selections, a cooking school, a bancomat (ATM) and public restrooms which are in short supply in many cities like Florence.

If you’re looking for Italian wines, particularly those from the Chianti Classico region, you’ve come to the right place.

Students pay rapt attention at the Lorenzo de Medici Cooking School upstairs at the Mercato Centrale.

If you feel the need for yet more shopping, there are also stalls outside the building on the surrounding streets with scarfs, leather items, and souvenirs—all the typical Florentine goods you’d expect to find.

Shoppers can find everything from dry pasta to Pinocchio at the market and stalls outside.

Buon apetito and happy shopping!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright Laws.

A Visit to Florence’s Salvatore Ferragamo Museum: Scarpe Diem

Descend the staircase in the stunning Palazzo Spini Feroni, which houses the flagship Ferragamo store and serves as company headquarters, and you’ll be greeted by walls of Salvatore Ferragamo’s strikingly beautiful shoes, artfully displayed, of course. Though they play a major role in the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo, a marvelous small museum on Florence’s posh Via Tornabuono, there’s much more to see than fabulous footwear.

Ferragamo’s shoes may themselves be considered works of art.

The Museum tells the story of the man, who grew up outside of Naples, the eleventh of 14 children and became “shoemaker to the stars”; the company, which became synonymous with beautiful and comfortable shoes that were widely imitated; and the city of Florence itself.

Visitors can learn about Florence’s fascinating history at the museum.

Stunning masterworks of 17^th and 18^th century Florentine art, a look at the palazzo’s chapel with frescoes by Bernardino Poccetti, artful fashion, and company’s history are all part of the museum experience www.ferragamo.com/museo.

There is much more to see than shoes at the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo.

In addition to the innovatively designed shoes for which the company is known, the signed lasts created for Marilyn Monroe, Rita Hayworth, Sophia Loren and so many other movie stars and well-known names, past and present, are on view along with Ferragamo’s leather working tools.

Wooden lasts created for movie stars, royalty and other recognizable names hang on the museum’s walls.

The company’s history is cleverly presented in photographs displayed on racks like tourist post cards.

These “picture postcards” give visitors a glimpse of the company’s past.

Video and still photos tell the story of Salvatore Ferragamo and the company he created.

Beautiful sculpture, noteworthy paintings, historic books, documents, and more from the family’s extensive collection compete for visitors’ attention. Classical music such as Corelli’s Le Sonata per Violino, Violone e Cimbalo plays in various gallery spaces, adding to the ambiance.

Along with the permanent collection, the museum hosts rotating exhibitions. The current show, Across Art and Fashion poses the question, “Is fashion art?” and examines the relationship between the two.

The famous building, constructed in 1289, is itself part of the museum. Among other things, the Palazzo Spini Feroni was once home to the City Council when Florence was the capital of Italy. Salvatore Ferragamo purchased the Palazzo in 1938, after returning from America, and it has served as Ferragamo’s headquarters since that time.

During it’s long and colorful history, the Palazzo Spini Feroni was home to Florence’s City Council, a hotel and art galleries before becoming Ferragamo’s headquarters.

Salvatore Ferragamo’s widow, Wanda, was instrumental in creating the museum.

Through the efforts of Ferragamo’s widow and family members, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo was founded in 1995 after an exhibition at Florence’s Palazzo Strozzi went on tour, hosted by New York’s Guggenheim Museum, the County Museum of Los Angeles, London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, and Sogetsu Kai Foundation in Tokyo among others. The traveling exhibition became the basis of the permanent collection at the museum.

Phone or email for private guided tours.

Private guided tours can be arranged on the first Saturday of each moth at 10 a.m. and 11 a.m. by emailing [email protected] or by calling +39 055 3562466. The museum also hosts special events. Check the website www.ferragamo.com/museo for details.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright Laws.

Pitstop in Pisa

If you’ve never been and you’re in the area, it’s worth a stop to see Pisa’s famous Leaning Tower and the Campo dei Miracoli or Square of Miracles. The Tower, or Torre, which was begun in 1173 and not completed until 1399 almost 200 years later, is one of the most recognizable and visited sites in Italy.

Go ahead– it’s why you’re here!

It’s easy to reach Pisa from Florence by car or train. We stopped on our way back to Panzano from Lucca. Park in one of the signed lots close to the piazza. There is a bit of an “element” looking to take advantage of tourists near the Campo dei Miracoli so it’s worth putting your car in an attended, paid lot. If you’ve arrived by train, take the LAM Rossa bus from the station in the direction of San Jacapo and get off at Torre.

Site map of the Campo dei Miracoli shows where everything is located.

If you’re feeling energetic, you can climb the 251 steps to the top of the Tower, for a fee. Children under the age of 8 are not allowed up into the Tower for safety reasons and children between the ages of 8 and 18 must have an adult accompany them. Opening hours and ticket prices are available at here, the official tourism website for Pisa.

Part of the fun is watching everyone else take their photos.

Take the requisite photos, enjoy watching others take theirs, and then visit Il Duomo, Pisa’s cathedral. It is really beautiful and has the holy doors or porta santa open for the Catholic Church’s Jubilee Year of Mercy. Inside, in addition to the spectacular architecture, you’ll find art treasures like 700-year-old depictions from the bible, works by Ghirlandaio, the tomb of the Holy Roman Emperor Henry VII, a beautiful mosaic by Cimabue, and a carved pulpit by Giovanni Pisano. Photos are not allowed inside.

Take the time to come inside. There is no charge to enter Pisa’s magnificent Il Duomo.

The Baptistery, though not as spectacular inside as the duomo, is also worth seeing if time allows. The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, which contains many of the artworks formerly housed in Il Duomo, the Baptistery and the Camposanto (cemetery) is also located on the Square of Miracles.

Construction on the Baptistry began in 1152 and is the best known work of Pisan architect Diotisalvi.

Entrance to the Cathedral is free but you must collect an entry coupon at the ticket office on the square. For tickets and admission information for the Baptistry, Museum and Camposanto click here.

Day Tripping– Lovely Lucca

The lively and lovely small city of Lucca is the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini and a wonderful place to spend one day or several. We’ve had a few day trips from our home base in Panzano in Chianti (www.stayitalia.com more on that in another post) and keep promising ourselves to spend more time here.

Lucca is a popular destination for visitors to Tuscany and easy to reach by car or train from Florence.

You cannot drive inside the walled city. You must park in one of the lots outside. Be sure to look for the pay station if you park in any area with blue lines. White lines mean free parking, but blue lines require payment. We were so excited to get a spot near the Porta Santa Maria that we didn’t even notice we were in a pay zone and came back to find a parking ticket on our windshield. Note—if you get a parking ticket, pay it while you are still in Italy at any Post Office. You can do so with cash or credit card and you’ll avoid paying your car rental company the fee they charge to provide the Italian government with your information plus you’ll avoid the hassle of paying via wire transfer/foreign currency once you return home.

Bicycling is a popular means of getting around in Lucca– inside the city walls and on top of them.

Once you get inside the walls, Porte San Pietro is the main gate–find an Info Point—Porta Santa Maria or Porta San Donato both have them. Pick up a tourism map which has several itineraries for exploring the town. Itineraries are in Italian, English and German and include opening times, closing days, and other important information for the major sites such as museums and churches.

Visitors and locals alike stroll or bicycle around Lucca’s famous medieval walls. Bicycle rentals are readily available.

Lots of people go to Lucca to “walk the wall” or ride bicycles around the city on the top of its ancient fortifications—Passaggiata delle Mura. The medieval walls built in 1544 replaced earlier Roman ones and extend 4,195 meters around the perimeter of Lucca. There are plenty of bicycle rental places just inside the walls, particularly near the Porta Santa Maria. It was a blustery, rainy day when we were there a few weeks ago, so we put this on our list for next time.

Now a place for picnics and soccer practice, the grassy area around the walls was once a moat.

If you have time for a delicious and leisurely lunch (or dinner), go to la Buca di Sant’Antonio, Via della Cervia 3, 55100 Lucca +39058355881 www.bucadisantantonio.com. The restaurant specializes in traditional cuisine of the area and the food is delicious.We’ve had several memorable meals here.You must reserve a table because the restaurant is quite popular.

Put Buca di Sant’ Antonio on your list of delightful restaurants in Lucca.

Maccheroni lucchesi al sugo di coniglio– housemade pasta with rabbit sauce– as delicious as it looks.

Puntarella alla Romana– a crisp, bitter salad topped with anchovies widely regarded as a Roman specialty.

Petto di faraona all’ uva moscato– guinea fowl in a wonderful moscato wine sauce with crispy pancetta. Yum!

The Church of St. Michele in Foro is one of Lucca’s “must visit” sites. It was built on the site of the Roman forum in the 11^th and 12^th centuries and is still the center of city life. The church has works by Luca della Robbia and Fillipino Lippi, among others.

This beautiful church is worth seeing both for its architecture and the wonderful art inside.

San Michele in Forno.

Piazza San Martino is home to Lucca’s duomo of the same name. Built in the Gothic Romanesque style, this beautiful church contains some important artworks by Ghirlandaio, Tintoretto and Fra Bartolomeo as well as the Holy Face of Lucca, a wooden Christ on a crucifix attributed to Nicodemus, as legend has it.

The anfiteatro is another of Lucca’s attractions. Built in the second century AD, the amphitheater’s former arena is now home to many shops and restaurants built into the ancient Roman walls, which are interesting to see from both inside and outside.

This Roman amphitheater once hosted games and gladiators. Now it’s a popular dining and shopping destination.

The Torre delle Ore, or clock tower, dates back to 1390. It is the tallest tower in town and has 207 wooden steps that ambitious visitors are welcome to climb. In its early days, the time was announced by bells alone but a clock face was added in 1752.

Hardy souls who climb the tower can see the hand-wound clock mechanism from the 18th century. It’s still working!

Lucca has a Puccini Museum, of course, which is at Corte San Lorenzo 9 (near the Piazza Citadella)– the composer’s birthplace. The museum features furnishings, artworks, pianos, musical scores and other personal belongings including letters and notes from and to Puccini.

Shopping seems to be a popular past time in Lucca and there is no shortage of brand names from which to choose.

Lucca has plenty of stores to keep shoppers happy.

This giant sewing machine is a clever advertisement for the Milanese menswear maker.

Lucca is perfectly suited to those who like to wander, and we do, but after awhile we needed a break and stopped in for a gelato at De’Coltelli, 10 Via San Paolina, www.decoltelli.it . Definitely seek this one out for their terrific artisanal gelato offered with complimentary panna (thick, sweetened whipped cream), which just adds to the deliciousness!

Panna is offered free as a thank you to gelato lovers here.

If it’s a drink or coffee you crave, pop in to The Dark Side—a cool little bar at 24 Via San Frediano at the corner of Via Angillara near the Church of San Frediano.

Come over to the Dark Side. You’ll be glad you did.

Step inside San Frediano for the beautiful baptismal font and works by Sienese sculptor Jacapo della Quercia, Matteo Civitali, and Amico Aspertini. The stunning facade features a golden mosiac depicting the Ascension.

Although we had come in for a quick coffee, we stayed for more than a half hour. The bartender was really friendly and he gave us tastes of some popular aperitivos along with descriptions of everything we sampled.

Our knowledgable and friendly bartender at the Dark Side.

The Dark Side’s complementary snacks, served with drinks, looked abundant and delicious, but we were off to Pisa.

Picture Perfect Panzano in Chianti

Panzano in Chianti is right in the heart of Chianti’s wine growing region and has been one of our favorite Tuscan getaways for many years. The small town is located midway between Florence and Siena, on the Chiantigiana/Highway 222, making it the perfect location from which to embark on day trips to these beautiful Tuscan cities. Other popular destinations like San Gimignano, Volterra and Pisa are also within easy driving distance, as are lovely nearby towns like Radda, Greve and Castellina in Chianti.

Steps lead down to reception at Villa Pecille in Panzano.

We have always rented from Sammie Daniels, founder of Stay Italia. In Panzano, we’ve stayed at Casa La Rota and Villa Pecille numerous times. Both are located on vineyard property owned by the family behind Fontodi Winery and are situated on the Conca del Ora, some of the most gorgeous countryside in Tuscany. Casa La Rota is surrounded by vineyards and is a five-minute drive into town. Villa Pecille overlooks the Conca del Ora and is a short walk into the village of Panzano.

La Rota is surrounded by Fontodi’s beautiful vineyards.

Casa La Rota.

All the apartments at La Rota and Villa Pecille are fully furnished and equipped with just about everything anyone could need to feel at home. Some have fireplaces. The two properties offer a range of accommodations suitable for two to eight people and both have swimming pools, ample outdoor areas for relaxing, and laundry facilities.

One of the terraces at Villa Pecille.

The pool at Villa Pecille.

Both La Rota and Villa Pecille have lots of lovely outdoor spaces to enjoy.

Sammie, who is American, is an expert on the area and has been here since 1985 when she opened a B & B in nearby Greve. She went on to remodel and manage the Vignamaggio Hotel, which was the setting for Much Ado About Nothing starring Kenneth Branaugh and Emma Thompson in 1993. In 1995, Sammie moved to Fontodi and opened Casa La Rota and has been there ever since. Sammie can assist guests with restaurant recommendations, wine tastings, even organizing dinners prepared in your villa.

Our spacious, fully equipped kitchen at Villa Pecille’s La Loggia.

La Loggia’s beautiful dining room is perfect for entertaining.

Sammie also has other properties in the area and several apartments in Florence.

The Piazza Bucciarelli is at the center of village life in Panzano in Chianti.

While not a large town, Panzano has its own market every Sunday morning in the main square— Piazza Bucciarelli—until about 1 p.m. The market is a great place to pick up fresh produce, fabulous cheeses, hot roast chicken, pasta and sauces, clothing, and household goods.

You can purchase Mr. Moreno’s superb selection of cheeses at Greve’s Saturday Market or in Panzano on Sunday mornings.

Clothing, accessories, shoes and more are available at Panzano’s Sunday Market.

The stores in town including the Coop (supermarket), pharmacy, and smaller shops near the main square and on Via Giovanni de Verrazzano, the road that leads up the hill to Santa Maria Assunta, are also open on Sundays but only until 1 p.m. There is also a much bigger weekly market in nearby Greve on Saturday mornings.

Fresh seasonal produce is at the heart of the market.

The town of Panzano is home to perhaps the most famous butcher in the world—the colorful, Dante- reciting Dario Cecchini. His Antica Macelleria Cecchini is technically a butcher shop but really so much more. Walk into his macelleria on a Sunday morning and it’s like there’s a party going on. He has a great spread of complimentary appetizers including his famous “Tuscan butter” (lardo), salamis, cheeses, olive oil, bread and wine.

Dario Cecchini may be the best known butcher in the world.

In addition to superb meats ready for your grill or oven, it is possible to purchase prepared dishes like porchetta—a delicious roast pork dish, polpetti—giant meatballs, and other local specialties for a picnic or easy meal at home. Service is friendly and English is spoken—Dario’s wife is a Californian. The ever-accommodating Dario is often willing to pose for photographs for international visitors who make the pilgrimage to Panzano to see him.

The very personable Dario Cecchini with our son this summer (top), and many years ago during one of our first holidays in Panzano.

Dario also has several restaurants: Solociccia, which is Tuscan slang for “only meat” and features cuts of beef from top to tail; Solociccino is a mini version of Solociccia and open for lunch only; Officina della Bistecca showcases sensational steaks including the famous Bistecca Fiorentina; and Dario DOC—which serves lunch from Monday through Saturday and is the only Dario restaurant where reservations are not required. All of the restaurants serve family style, multi course, prix fix meals, and while famous for top quality meat, vegetarian options are offered.

Complimentary meats, cheeses, bread, wine and Dario’s famous “Tuscan butter” are a tasty treat for visitors to the macelleria.

The butcher shop and restaurants draw people from around the globe-a lot of people. Dario’s Sunday lunches are especially popular so book in advance if you’d like to partake in these multi course extravaganzas. In the warm weather diners are served outside on long communal tables. We’ve met interesting people from all over the world at these delicious, leisurely meals. Dario also offers classes/workshops in butchery, which must be reserved in advance. All the details for the shop, restaurants and classes are here.

This sculpture welcomes visitors to Il Molino di Grace’s tasting room outside Panzano.

Wine tasting is a popular Tuscan past time and Panzano is a marvelous place to indulge in this pleasure. There are three wine bars or enoteca on or across from the main piazza—Enoteca Baldi at 25 Piazza Bucciarelli, Misticoteca at 13 Piazza Bucciarelli, and the newest, Il Cardo at 50 Piazza Bucciarelli. These are all about a three-minute walk (or less) from one another.

Enoteca Baldi is popular with locals and visitors alike. Bring your beverage outside and enjoy it on the Piazza if you like.

Enoteca Baldi and Il Cardo offer a selection of light foods to accompany your wine. Misticoteca, whose delightful owner Misty always has a warm welcome for visitors, has olive oils, specialty foods and gift items available for purchase. There almost always seems to be a crowd there.

Misticoteca was a popular place to watch the Giro d’Italia but this enoteca always draws a crowd.

We were fortunate to have our recent visit coincide with the Giro d’Italia—a major bicycle race—and its attendant 15 Giorni di Rosa or 15 Days of Pink—an exhaustive calendar of public events ranging from bicycle themed films, musical concerts, theatrical performances, free lectures, and of course, wine tastings.

The Bar Dante Alighieri in Radda is perfect for a coffee, light meal or a drink.

Shopkeepers in Radda were thinking pink for the Giro d’Italia.

The events were held in Radda, where the race would begin; Castellina in Chianti, San Donato, Panzano, through which the race passed; and Greve, where the race would end.

Greve welcomed racers and bicycling enthusiasts for the Giro d’Italia.

The day before the race, Unione Viticoltori de Panzano in Chianti presented Vino al Vino Miniatura, a smaller version of the wine tasting event the group hosts every September. All members of the organization had their wines available for tasting.

Panzano’s vintners presented Vino al Vino in Minaturo the day before the big race.

Wineries represented at that festive Saturday afternoon event included Fontodi, Il Molino di Grace, Casaloste, La Massa, Cennatoio, Fattoria la Quercia, Tenuta degli Dei and Castello dei Rampolla, among other local producers, 20 in total by my count. A souvenir glass and the opportunity to taste all of the delicious wines on offer cost just 10 Euro. There was live music in the Piazza Bucciarelli as well as local art on display to keep participants entertained while they sipped.

Great wines, music and a beautiful day brought people to Panzano’s Piazza Bucciarelli.

We visited Fontodi and Il Molino di Grace for wine tastings on this visit, and have toured and tasted at many others over the years. Here’s a list of local wineries, touring/tasting/direct sales availability, and other information.

A visit to Fontodi– one of the region’s premier wine producers.

The delightful and knowledgable Rina Lapini prepares to pour Fontodi’s flagship Flaccianello for visitors.

Contact wineries directly to make arrangements for private tours and wine tastings prior to arriving in Tuscany. Some are open to the public and some are not. Some offer complimentary tastings and some charge a fee.

Doors on Via Giovanni de Verrazzano, the main street off Piazza Bucciarelli leading up the hill to Santa Maria Assunta.

Panzano is also a fine place to have custom shoes, belts and hand bags made by local leather artisan Carlo Fagiani; visit a gallery that specializes in local artists’ work (we enjoyed a photography exhibition by Jeferson Silva Castellari and purchased one of his photographs on canvas); pick up antique or modern hardware; stop into a beautiful church– Santa Maria Assunta, which has a painting of the Annunciation attributed to Ghirlandaio and a 14^th century Madonna from Botticini; or just relax with a coffee at our favorite bar, Caffe la Curva (it’s called Bar of the Curve because that’s where it is), or stop by for gelato and apperitivi later in the day.

Order custom made shoes, belts and handbags at Carlo Fagiani in Panzano.

Caffe la Curva is a great place to start the day with a cappuccino and cornetto or end it with an apperitivo.

Panzano’s bucolic beauty beckons us back again and again.

However you chose to spend your time in this beautiful place, enjoy la dolce vita in Italia and perhaps you’ll understand why we’ve returned to Panzano in Chianti again and again.

Puppets in Palermo—A Stopover in Sicily’s Biggest City

Welcome to Palermo.

We took a drive right up the center of Sicily on SS624 to reach Palermo. The ride is scenic, beautiful and pretty straightforward. As you approach, you’ll be greeted with breathtaking views of the city sprawl and the bay—bellissimo!

Palermo is Sicily’s capital city and it’s most populous. Its Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture, cultural attractions, and incredible cuisine draw visitors from around the world.

Palermo is the largest and busiest city in Sicily and has plenty to offer the visitor looking for a bustling urban experience. We had less than two full days in Palermo and there is far more to see and do than we had time for.

The simple facade of Monreale Cathedral gives no indication of the superb golden mosaics inside this “must see” church.

Let your first stop in Palermo be a visit to Monreale Cathedral. This stunning cathedral has golden mosaics that rival, and some say surpass, those at Venice’s Basilica San Marco (St. Mark’s). This is truly a spectacular church, considered to be the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily, and should not be missed. The somewhat plain façade belies the beauty that awaits inside.

The breathtaking golden mosaics inside Monreale Cathedral rival those at St. Mark’s (San Marco) Basilica in Venice.

Narrow, busy streets and overcrowding make parking a challenge in Palermo and the area surrounding the cathedral is no exception. There is a well-marked, supervised pay parking garage just down the road from the cathedral. Walk carefully along the alley- like street back up to the church.

The clear message here is: Do not park in front of this garage. Parking is always tricky in Palermo. When in doubt, find a pay lot.

After enjoying the splendor of the cathedral, we had a terrific lunch at Bricco e Bacco Brasserie, just kitty corner from the cathedral. It was a lovely place with good, local specialties and friendly service. Since we arrived after the lunch crowd, it was also quiet. You’ll find the restaurant at Via B. D’Aquisto, 13, Monreale, Phone for a reservation +39 091 641 7773. It’s a popular spot.

Driving in Palermo can be a harrowing experience and is not for the faint hearted.

Wind your way down into the city proper, navigating traffic carefully. All bets are off in Palermo and traffic can be heavy. Stop signs seem to be a mere suggestion and traffic signals are also sometimes ignored.

Farm fresh fruits and vegetables are sold at stands throughout the city. Be aware that in Sicily, what we call broccoli is cauliflower here.

Street markets like this one, selling clothing, dry goods, kitchen wares and other necessities can be found throughout Palermo. Ask for a “piccolo sconto”– a discount. Bargaining is part of the fun.

We really enjoyed walking all around the city to get the flavor of it and to get our bearings on our first visit. We covered a lot of ground, including the Corso Vittorio Emmanuel, which is Palermo’s “high street.” Here you’ll find upscale shops and stylish boutiques, cafes and bars. Palermo also has numerous street markets with household necessities, clothing and dry goods, fruit stands, and food stalls, including the well known Vucciria and Ballaro markets.

Hands down, our favorite cultural institution in Palermo was the Museo Internazionale delle Marrionette. Yes, it is a puppet museum and far more compelling than you might expect. Sicily has a strong tradition of puppetry used for both entertainment and political commentary dating back centuries.

In addition to providing entertainment, puppet shows were often used to express political and social view points, particularly when the literacy rate was low.

Plan to spend at least a few hours enjoying the expansive collection and exhibits at the International Museum of Puppetry.

The museum’s collection includes more than 3,000 puppets of all kinds from around the world.

Marionette soldiers in full armament along with their battle- ready horses are on display in this large gallery.

The attention to detail and historical accuracy of the costumes is impressive.

They have puppets and marionettes from around the world, from the simplest paper puppets to the most elaborate marionettes. You’ll see everything from fairy princesses and dragons to entire armies dressed in armament from throughout the ages, all with remarkable attention to detail.

Even Laurel and Hardy make an appearance here.

You’ll find examples of puppets from the primitive to the extraordinarily elaborate.

Puppets from around the world including Africa, Indonesia and Japan are represented.

There are also a variety of settings and backdrops on view. We found our visit to the marionette museum to be an absolutely enchanting experience. The museum hosts puppet shows, too, of course.

Enjoy these fine examples of Japanese Bunraku puppets.

The museum often hosts puppet shows and has videos of productions on view.

For more information and show times, please visit www.museomarionettepalermo.it The museum is at the end of Via Butera on the Piazzetta Antonio Pasqualina, 5.

Known for its medieval art collection, the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia at Palazza Abatellis is a former palatial residence dating back to the 1490s, which went on to become a convent and then a monastery. It is now a regional gallery and museum.

Built for the Kingdom of Sicily’s Port Master, this fine former residence now houses an impressive collection of Medieval art and other treasures.

Here you will find sculptures, frescoes and paintings by Italian artists, as well as Flemish and other European masters, sacred art, weaponry and more.

Sculpture, paintings, religious art and more await visitors at the Palazzo Abatellis.

Though the building suffered terrible damage during Allied bombing raids in WWII, frescoes such as these from the 1400s survived.

Unfortunately the website has not been updated for some time so it is best to call the museum at +39 091 623 0011. It is located at Via Allora, 4.

To see how the upper class lived centuries ago, visit the Palazzo Mirto www.casemuseoitalia.it/en. The Palazzo Mirto is part of a network of “house museums” found throughout Italy. It was originally built for the Filangeri family in the mid 17^th century and falls into the ancestry category of homes.

The Palazzo Mirto provides a glimpse at the opulence the upper classes enjoyed during the time of the Kingdom of Sicily.

The palazzo is filled with beautifully appointed rooms featuring elaborate furnishings, ceramics, antique musical instruments, and art. One of the most spectacular is the Chinese Room, likely decorated in 1876 when the house was renovated.

The Chinese Room was the height of fashion when it was designed in the mid 1800s.

There are also classic carriages on display along with other historic treasures that paint a picture of Sicilian life for the upper class in the days before the Risorgimento when Sicily was still a kingdom.

Splendid furnishings and elegant porcelain are among the items on display at Palazzo Mirto.

The museum is located at Via Merlo, 2 and telephone is +39 091 616 4751 for updated information.

Enjoy a performance or take a guided tour– these are the only ways to get inside the magnificent Teatro Massimo.

If there is a performance at the Teatro Massimo, get a ticket and go. Regularly scheduled dance, opera, and classical music are all performed here. If you’re feeling flush, you, too, can rent the royal box —you just have to purchase all 27 seats in it.

The Teatro Massimo is known for its excellent acoustics and grand stage.

If time does not permit you to attend a performance, take a guided tour, which is the only other way to see the inside of this magnificent and historic building.

This beautiful and historic theater is among the largest in Europe.

A model of the theater is displayed in the lobby.

The theater boasts one of the largest stages in Europe and is worth seeing. Built in 1897, it is known for its outstanding acoustics and is still the largest theater in Italy with 1,300 seats. It is appropriately located on the Piazza Verdi. +39 091 6053580 www.teatromassimo.it.

The Politeama Garabaldi Theater hosts regular performances in Palermo’s historic city center.

We wanted to visit the highly regarded National Archeological Museum but it was closed for renovations during our visit. Please go to www.regione.sicilia.it/beniculturali/salinas for current information.

A stroll through Sicily’s capital city yields surprises.

We did not visit the Catacombe dei Cappuccine, the home of about 8,000 dead bodies, amassed over the course of several hundred years, all dressed up and on display. We find the entire enterprise rather ghoulish and having seen the Capuccine Chapel in Rome, which features skeletons of dead monks, felt no obligation to see this seemingly far more ambitious enterprise. Apparently it is a popular place on many tourist itineraries and so we mention it here.

Flags fly outside the Porta Felice Hotel on the small but busy Via Butera.

There are lodgings at all price points and with all levels of service, as you would expect in a large city like Palermo. We stayed at Hotel Porta Felice www.hotelportafelice.it/en at Via Butera, 45. Tele. 091 6175678. This is in the old section of town near the port.

Pleasure craft and fishing boats crowd the marina at the end of Via Butera.

Even though the hotel is on what appears to be a small side street, it is pretty busy. We were upgraded to a nice suite, even though we’d booked through www.venere.com. The location was very convenient and we walked everywhere we wanted to go, after turning in our rental car.

Friendly service and excellent Sicilian specialties await diners at L’Ottava Nota.

We only had two nights in Palermo and wound up having dinner both evenings just down the street from our hotel at L’Ottava Nota Ristorante, via Butera 55 091 6168601 www.ristoranteottavanota.it. The restaurant was small and lovely with fantastic food and great service. The fish dishes were all spectacular. Everything was fresh, artfully prepared and delicious.

Perfectly prepared pasta makes a delicious first course.

White fish in a light curry broth was a favorite.

Seafood dishes were the star attraction for us, but L’Ottova Nota has superb meat and vegetable dishes, too.

A fish in a light curry broth with vegetables was so good I still think about it, though it is no longer on the menu. We mentioned we were staying at the Porta Felice and were happily surprised to learn we’d get a 20 percent discount on our meal because we were guests there. We cannot confirm that the special pricing is still available but it never hurts to ask, should you dine here. The restaurant is just a few doors down from Porte Felice on Via Butera, 55. The telephone is +39 091 616 8601.

We had an excellent lunch at Trattoria Piccolo Napoli, www.trattoriapiccolonapoli.it. Piccolo Napoli had been recommended by an Italian friend in the wine business but apparently Anthony Bourdain had once dined here and the owner told us that lots of Americans had been showing up ever since. Our welcome was much more cordial when we told him (in Italian) that his friend Sasha had sent us! Try the panisse (chick pea fritters) to start and have any seafood you like—it is all super fresh and simply, but deliciously, prepared.

Snack on some panisse as you peruse the menu.

Simply but perfectly prepared pastas and seafood dishes shine at Piccolo Napoli.

Through a small window into the kitchen, we watched the chef toss a whole octopus into a pot, plate it and serve it to a young girl who devoured every bit. We had pasta with shellfish and then I had a beautiful swordfish dish. For dessert, they brought us the ubiquitous “winter melon.” The melon is sweet and refreshing and so called winter melon because it can be picked in the summer and stored throughout the winter. We saw it on menus throughout Sicily. The restaurant is on the Piazzetta Mulino a Vento, 4. Telephone is +39 091 320431.

Palermo is a fascinating and vibrant city and certainly worth a visit. We’ll be back.

Our final meal in Palermo was an extremely casual, but excellent pizza lunch at the airport, which we enjoyed out on the observation deck with a view of planes coming and going, and of course, the beautiful sea!

Taormina’s Beach Clubs

Sicily boasts some of Europe’s most beautiful and pristine beaches, but since we live in San Diego, we usually don’t spend much, if any, time at the beach on our vacations– Hawaii being an exception. On our first visit to Sicily, we spent one lovely afternoon on a nearly deserted beach near Porto Paulo. The season was over, but the water was warm and beach was inviting.

The beach at La Caravella, Taormina.

This year, we opted for a more leisurely paced vacation and chose to spend some time enjoying the sand and surf. Our hotel in Taormina, the Villa Ducale, has arrangements with two local beach clubs—Lido La Pigna and La Caravella Lido. This is how it works—you reserve a place at the beach club through your hotel, the beach club sends a shuttle to collect you and takes you back to your hotel at a pre-agreed upon time at the end of the day. This is fairly typical. The fee for this was 8 Euro for Lido La Pigna and 12 Euro for La Caravella Lido. The beach club fees were about half the price of a round-trip taxi ride from our hotel into the town of Taormina and included reserved lounge chairs and umbrellas. Having a reserved lounge chair is a very good idea, especially during the busy summer season. Even in October when we visited, the weather was fantastic so the beach was crowded.

Reserve a chaise and umbrella, especially when the beach is crowded. Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

If you’d like to go to the beach after walking around town, as we did, you can also take the funicular down. Just outside the Porte Messina, the funicular is operated by ASM (same as bus line), and for 3 Euros, you can take a scenic one-way ride to the parking lot right across from La Pigna. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the same parking lot to La Caravella.

One way fare to the beach is just 3 Euros.

Scenic funicular ride takes only a few minutes from Taormina down to the beach.

Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

La Pigna was more crowded than La Caravella, probably due to the proximity of the funicular, but the water was pristine. There were paddle boats for rent, excursions to Isola Bella and that large rock you could swim out to and jump off—an activity many engaged in.

Lifeguard on duty at La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily. Signs warn of sudden drop off in water depth–in Italian, German and English.

Taiwanese women (self-identified) walked up and down the beach at La Pigna offering massage from 20 to 40 Euros for outdoor treatments ranging from foot reflexology to full body massage. We followed our masseuse down the beach where she had a little area set aside and had our treatments on chaise lounges on beach—not at all private, but very relaxing.

Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.

There were also some souvenir sellers on the beach at La Pigna. There were neither masseuses nor vendors on the beach at La Caravella on the days that we were there.

La Caravella Lido, Taormina, Sicily.

Our hotel provided us with a handy tote bag and nice big towels. This is important—be sure to get towels from your hotel because otherwise you have to pay a hefty rental fee for towels at the beach–if they have any. We learned this lesson the hard way and wound up paying 12 Euros each, just to use towels at a beach club in the Southeast of Sicily. There were no free towels available at any of the beach clubs we visited in Sicily. Remember to bring your own towels!

Swimming out to the rocks is an appealing activity at La Caravella, Taormina.

All of the beach clubs we visited had changing facilities and showers –but not the kind I imagined. In my mind, they would be like those at the fitness clubs and beach clubs I have visited or belonged to in the U.S.—comfortable locker rooms, all amenities (including hair dryers) provided, private, etc. The changing rooms at the beach clubs we visited in Sicily ranged from a portable unit, not unlike a large port-a-potty, to a permanent cement structure attached to the beach club’s restaurant. These changing rooms are utilitarian at best, but better than going home in a wet, sandy swimsuit.

Restaurant at La Caravella, Taormina. Changing facilities were in connecting building.

The showers were outdoors at both Taormina beach clubs we visited. In fact, the showers were outdoors at all the Sicilian beach clubs we went to. No soap or shampoo was provided and the showers are completely public— in other words, there is no privacy at all. The good news is that you are able to rinse off and even wash your hair after swimming—if you bring your own toiletries.

Both beach clubs had attentive chair-side beverage service as well as full- service restaurants on the property. We enjoyed a nice pizza and salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna but only had drinks at La Caravella since we had already had lunch in town.

La Terrazze at Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

La Terrazze’s menu, Lido La Pigna, Taormina.

We shared a pizza and a salad for lunch at Lido La Pigna, Taormina, Sicily.

There are other beach clubs in Taormina besides the two we visited and some hotels have their own. Wherever you choose to enjoy the beaches in Sicily, relax , unwind and have a wonderful time.

Touring Taormina: The “Must Sees”

The town of Taormina offers several “must sees” including the Greek Theater and the Public Gardens. The Greek Theater, or Teatro Greco Taormina, was built by the Greeks, possibly in the 3^rd Century BC, and rebuilt and expanded by the Romans. The arena is spectacular and is still a venue for all kinds of entertainment ranging from rock to classical music, ballet, and theatrical performances. It is also the home of the Taormina Film Festival. The views over the Bay of Naxos and up to Mt. Etna are amazing. There will be lots and lots of other people sharing the views at what is possibly the most famous, and certainly among the most visited site in Sicily. Even when it’s crowded, it is worth waiting to enter and enjoy the setting.

Taormina’s Teatro Greco is one of the most visited sites in Sicily.

Stunning landscaping at Taormina’s Greek Theater.

After braving the crowds, go next door to the luxurious Grand Hotel Timeo at Via Teatro Greco, 59. If you are staying here, you are indeed fortunate. While we did not, several friends have and loved it. Even if you are not a guest, you can relax with a drink or coffee on their expansive verandah—and once again, enjoy the incredible views. There are many, many lodging options in Taormina at all price points. The Grand Timeo is among the more expensive choices, but it is a very grand property and if you want a location in the heart of Taormina and price is not a consideration, why not?

The lovely terrace at the Grand Hotel Timeo is a fantastic place to relax with a drink or coffee.

The public gardens, Giardini della Villa Comunale, located on Via Bagnoli Croce are gorgeous and blissfully peaceful. Even though they are quite near to the Greek Theater, you’ll rarely encounter crowds while strolling the lovely manicured grounds, which also afford spectacular views.

Taormina’s beautiful public gardens are a peaceful oasis in a busy tourist town.

Giardini della Villa Comunale, Taormina, Sicily.

The gardens were the creation of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an Englishwoman known for her dalliances as well as her botanical interests. Lady Trevelyan included a number of “follies,” buildings included for visual interest but no other real purpose, in her gardens.

A so-called “folly” at the Giardini della Villa Comunale in Taormina, Sicily.

Along with beautiful Mediterranean and exotic flowers, plants and trees that keep the garden colorful all year long, you’ll find a human driven “torpedo” from World War II at Taormina’s Giardini della Villa Comunale. The craft, which operators in the Italian Navy referred to as the Maiale (pig) was electronically propelled and driven by two crewmen in dive suits who steered the torpedo to an enemy ship, detached the warhead, and affixed it to the enemy ship’s hull. Mission accomplished, the divers rode away on the torpedo before the explosion. An interesting find in the public gardens!

The human torpedo nicknamed "Miaile" or pig, at Taormina's beautiful public gardens.

The human torpedo nicknamed “Maiale” or pig, at Taormina’s beautiful public gardens.

Next, we’ll join the crowds and see the town.

Around Town in Taormina, Sicily

Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.

The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.

Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.

Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.

How do all these shops stay in business?

Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.

Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.

Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.

La Fontana, Taormina.

Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.

Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.

Taormina, Sicily.

More, more, more.

Modern ceramics are popular, too.

Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.

Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.

This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.

Taking a break in Taormina.

There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.

Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.

The humble but tasty arancino.

Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!

Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.

If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.

The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.

The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.

Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.

Some of the 700+ steps that lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.

There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.

The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.

The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.

You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.

The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.

If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.

If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.

Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.

Scala dei Turchi- Sicily’s Spectacular Turkish Steps

You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.

When we first visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.

Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.

The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.

As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.

Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.

The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.

Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.

The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.

Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.

We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.

Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi when you visit. It is not possible to climb them any more.

The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.

You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.

Visitors used to be able to relax and enjoy the unparalleled view from the top of the Turkish Steps.

The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!

UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Protected by US Copyright laws.

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