I have a fear of heights. I’ll admit it. Standing at the cable car station in Bolzano/Bozen and staring up at the impressive mountain I was about to ascend made me a little queasy, but I hadn’t come all this way to miss out on my very first hike in the Dolomites. Specifically, a hike to see the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten.
The cable car is the fastest and easiest way to reach Soprabolzano/Oberbozen.
We boarded the red gondola along with a group of young men laden with picnic provisions and camping gear and up we went. I choked back my apprehension and concentrated on the incredible views as we climbed higher and higher up the mountain toward SopraBolzano/Oberbozen.
The views are exceptional as you ascend the 1221 meters to the mountaintop.
It’s possible to take a bus or drive up the steep switchbacks to reach the town, but the cable car is much faster and easier. It departs every four minutes and takes less than 15 minutes to reach the top– 1221 meters above Bolzano/Bozen.
Hikers and campers shared our gondola for the 15-minute ride.
The cable car deposits you right across the street from the historic narrow- gauge Renon/Ritten Railroad. Be sure to buy a round trip combo ticket for the cable car and the railroad when you purchase your ticket at the Bolzano/Bozen station.
The historic railroad has been carrying passengers since 1907.
Trains run every 30 minutes during peak daytime hours. Climb aboard and enjoy the mountain views on the 20-minute ride from SopraBolzano/Oberbozen to Collalbo/Klobenstein. We passed farms, cows, hikers and traditional Alpine A-frame homes as we whizzed by to the end of the line.
We zipped along through the beautiful Alpine countryside enjoying the views.
It’s a short walk from the station through a residential neighborhood to the center of Collalbo/ Klobenstein where lunch can be had a several restaurants. Most seemed to offer the same traditional South Tyrol dishes but the two we had our eye on were closing shortly and wouldn’t seat us.
The path from the train station into Collalbo/Klobenstein goes through a residential area.
It’s a pleasant stroll from the train station and fun to see all the carefully tended gardens along the way.
One of the gardens we passed was creatively decorated with gnomes and a Disney princess.
It was disappointing to be turned away from several restaurants because we arrived too close to the kitchen closing, but we kept searching!
Sleek Zentral was a welcome sight for these hungry travelers.
We were directed to Zentral by a harried hostess and off we went in search of sustenance. We were not disappointed and were soon tucking into a perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel and a tasty mushroom and polenta dish. We had a crisp local white wine with the meal and finished up with some house made gelato.
Crisp, perfectly prepared weiner schnitzel was just right for lunch.
Menus in the Sud Tirol usually feature Austrian and Italian influenced dishes and are always seasonal.
A medley of local mushrooms atop polenta was outstanding.
Save room for dessert! Cakes and gelato are always on offer.
There’s always room for gelato.
There is a mix of Austrian and Italian influences in this autonomous area of Italy, which was a part of Austria until the end of World War I. German is the predominant and preferred language in the Sud Tirol, though signage and menus are generally printed in German, Italian and sometimes English. You’ll find many people speak English, particularly in hotels, shops and restaurants here.
Signs indicate directions and show how long it will take to reach your destination.
After a satisfying lunch we headed off towards our destination—Longomoso/Lengmoos and the earth pyramids of Renon/Ritten. It’s an easy 30-minute hike from town to see these natural wonders, said to be Europe’s highest and most perfectly shaped examples of the boulder- topped pillars.
It’s an easy 30- minute hike to the earth pyramids.
Paths are well-marked and part of the way to the earth pyramids is paved.
Signs in German and Italian point the way.
The views just get better and better as you continue your hike!
The earth pyramids at Renon/Ritten are 25,000 years old.
Called erdpyramiden in German or piramidi di terra in Italian, the conical pillars were formed 25,000 years ago from the moraine clay soil left behind when the last of the Ice Age glaciers covering the Valle d’Isarco melted away. It takes thousands of years for earth pyramids to form and the process is a dynamic one.
These earth pyramids are said to be the highest and most perfectly shaped in Europe.
In dry weather, the soil is rock hard, but rain softens the earth and carries away the soil. The rocks left behind in the mud protect the clay soil beneath them, which rises from the earth to form the pyramids—capped by the boulders that allowed them to develop. As older earth pyramids collapse, new ones form. They really are spectacular to see!
New pillars are formed as the older ones collapse.
These are some of the most impressive earth pyramids in the world and some of the oldest!
The boulders capping the pyramids protect them and allow them to develop.
At the end of the trail from Collalbo/Klobenstein, there is a large viewing platform with panoramic vistas over the valley to the earth pyramids in the nearby gorge, with maps and helpful information in German, Italian and English. We were lucky to have the platform to ourselves much of the time, though during busy summer months the popular site draws crowds.
We made it to the top!
Keep going– enjoy the views and pose for a silly picture at the top.
A handy map shows points of interest.
Many natural sites in this area have maps that include highlights of the area and give a sense of place.
Informational signs are in German, Italian and English at this popular site.
After enjoying the sensational view of the earth pyramids for quite some time, we began the hike back. We came upon the Café Erdpyramiden along the way.
We were happy to find the cafe open as there are no services or facilities near the viewing platform.
The cafe is a handy stop since there are no facilities at the viewing platform or along the trail to reach it.
Stop in for coffee, cold drinks, snacks and local wine.
It’s a great place to enjoy the view, have a drink and a snack and use the facilities!
Bring your drink out on the back terrace and enjoy a last look at the earth pyramids.
A pleasant stroll back past historic buildings, churches, homes, a pond and grazing cows took us back to town and the train station.
It’s a beautiful walk through the countryside to and from the earth pyramids.
Enjoy the walk back– it’s an easy trek.
It’s hard to get lost with signage everywhere!
Our timing was perfect and five minutes later we were chugging along toward home, which in our case was the Nepora Design Hotel in nearby Settequerce.
Trains run every 30 minutes during peak hours and we timed our return perfectly.
We wandered around SopraBolzano/Oberbozen, admiring the views and checking out lodging for a future trip before heading back down to Bolzano/Bozen on the cable car.
The comfortable lobby at Gloriette Guesthouse. Love the baby buggy bar.
We popped in the the Gloriette Guesthouse to check it out for a return visit to the area.
We had a nice wander around the town of Soprabolzano/Oberbozen before heading to the cable car.Making our descent into the center of Bolzano/Bozen after a wonderful day in the Dolomites.
We will definitely return to this spectacular area and its natural wonders and suggest you add it to your list, too. In the meantime you can enjoy the virtual view here.
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
Protected by US copyright laws.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on gelato.
Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska and summer is on its way. In the space of a week, trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow for months, erupt in a riot of blooms and buds. The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light in our 49th state until late August. There are plenty of Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes! Here are some suggestions:
Rolling On the River
A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.
Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.
Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.
I got a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse and found out he, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.
Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.Relax and enjoy the spectacular scenery while you learn about this fascinating area.
These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history. We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association. We even met some reindeer!
Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.
As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore while we watched and cheered from the boat.
Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.These sled dogs and their handlers demonstrate what it takes to be part of a winning team.
He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.
A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.
We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village. These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead. We learned about the salmon that was a dietary mainstay not just for the people, but their dogs as well, and watched a demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.
Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.
We also saw a fashion show of sorts featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain—moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.
Traditional Athabascan winter wear.Fur is key in Alaska’s subzero temps.
Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt. While many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas, and conventional camps have been abandoned in many areas, we were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited.
The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.
As we enjoyed the scenery on our way back, our captain’s grandmother came out of her home on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically at her grandson, and us. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us. We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week, while others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise.
Cultural Exchange
Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.
Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center. We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work, which included jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets.
Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.We had the chance to meet the artisans who created the handicrafts for sale.
We also enjoyed a dance performance put on by local tribal members who explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard. We were treated to the still rare event of having a woman drummer accompany the dancers. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!
We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.
The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.
Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.
Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.
Cool Cars and Clothes
Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.
If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must. We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection. The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here.
The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.
The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage. Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck. He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum.
The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976. The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.
Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.
Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town. Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.
Go North
The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.
The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.
Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.
Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.
Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.
Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.
While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world.
A Day in Denali
Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.
One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away. We took a bus, which had been arranged for our group, to the Park. We learned that Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park. Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park,but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged.
Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.
Our plans were far more modest. After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness.
Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!
Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.
A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.Don’t hike alone– it is safer and more fun with friends anyway!
We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!
Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.
We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali. There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos. We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.
The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad from Denali to Fairbanks is unparalleled!
After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad.Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.
Go Play Outside
Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball!
When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball. The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!
The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!
Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis. To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!
Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker
Protected by US copyright laws.
This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you. I appreciate it!
After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales–the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!
What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?
The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.
The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!
Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.
Park on the shoulder.There’s no official parking area here.There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.
If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.
The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery.We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!
Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.
These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.
You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.
This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.
Heed the sign!
The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.
You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.
We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.
We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.
At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.
Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.
D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!
Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.
The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.
We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.
After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.
This monument marksan ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.
The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.
The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!
There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.
The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?
Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!
Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!
