You’ll see them long before you reach them– bright white, gleaming brilliantly in the Sicilian sun as they rise from the blue Mediterranean–the Scala dei Turchi or Turkish Steps. If you’re in the area of Agrigento, home to Valle dei Templi– some of Sicily’s best known and most visited Greek ruins, head a few miles west towards Realmonte and Porte Empedocle and explore one of Southern Sicily’s most breathtaking natural wonders.
When we first visited, people were able to climb the Scala dei Turchi near Porte Empedocle, Sicily.
Follow the brown informational road signs and you’ll wind up at a car park just across from the beach. It can be tricky to find so pay close attention. Walk past the beach club and restaurant and hike along the beach. The trail is fairly rocky, marshy and wet, of course. There are nicer swimming beaches in the area, but you won’t find anything like the Turkish Steps anywhere else.
The gleaming white steps of the Scala dei Turchi beckon from the beach.
As you walk through grassy wetlands, and along the beach, shimmering in the distance you’ll see the spectacular step formation known as Scala dei Turchi rising from the sea.
Consider aquasocks or similar footwear as the beach is quite rocky.
The Turkish Steps, as they are popularly referred to, are truly a sight to behold. Formed by sedimentary rock, this gleaming white staircase leads up to spectacular cliffs that rise up from the blue Mediterranean. The site got its name from the stair-like shape of the rock formation and also because it was a favorite landing place for pirates and the invading Moors.
Visitors used to climb the Turkish Steps but this is no longer permitted.
The rock is fairly soft and many visitors have carved their names, initials and paeans to love in the steps. We do not encourage this.
Unfortunately, visitors have carved messages in the soft rock in many languages. Please don’t.
We visited the Scala dei Turchi on a beautiful warm October afternoon and while we were certainly not alone, the site was not terribly crowded. That is not the case during the summertime, we’ve been told. We were also warned that parking is at a premium in the summer months.
Enjoy the views from the overlook above the Scala dei Turchi when you visit. It is not possible to climb them any more.
The crashing waves of Mediterranean Sea far below– breathtaking.
You may also choose to park above the steps and walk down to the top, where there is an overlook, instead of hiking along the beach. This is a shorter and less challenging way to go but you’ll miss the great views that the beach walk affords.
Visitors used to be able to relax and enjoy the unparalleled view from the top of the Turkish Steps.
The naturally created troughs at the top of Scala dei Turchi drew many looking for a place to relax, sunbathe and enjoy the magnificent Mediterranean Sea– this is no longer permitted. Enjoy views of the steps and the Sicilian sunset from the beach or overlook above before heading back to your hotel!
UPDATE– The Turkish Steps are now protected and it is not permitted to climb them. I have revised the post to reflect that, though when I wrote this piece and took the photos, it was allowed. Enjoy this natural wonder from the beach below or the scenic overlook above, but please stay off the steps.
Even in October, the streets of Taormina are jam packed with tourists, many trailing their tour guides. Large, slow, name tags and fanny packs in evidence, many of these groups of visitors disembark from their cruise ships early in the morning, and after a long day of souvenir shopping for the likes of Homer Simpson as The Godfather tee shirts, thankfully get back on their boats before sunset.
The streets are Taormina are packed with people–even in October.
Both the sheer numbers of people and the shops offering absolute junk surprised me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many souvenir shops selling so many of the same silly things.
Godfather tee shirts are in abundance at Taormina’s shops.
How do all these shops stay in business?
Despite the crowds and questionable merchandise, the main street, Corso Umberto I, is certainly worth a stroll and there are lovely churches and galleries to stop in and admire as you make you way through the throngs. There are gates at each end of Corso Umberto I– Porta Catania and Porta Messina, through which you enter this pedestrian thoroughfare. Piazza del Duomo and Piazza IX Aprile are the two main squares in the town with the requisite cafes and shops, though there are also bars and restaurants, along with countless shops, all along the Corso and on the smaller streets. Cafe Wunderbar on the Piazza IX Aprile looks inviting and always seems to have a crowd.
Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina, Sicily.
Piazza del Duomo, Taormina, Sicily.
La Fontana, Taormina.
Ceramics are a really popular souvenir all over Sicily and Taormina is no exception. Ceramic heads of kings and queens are especially sought after in the Taormina area. There are a number of stories around this with slight variations, but all have a grisly ending.
Ubiquitous ceramic king and queen heads.
Taormina, Sicily.
More, more, more.
Modern ceramics are popular, too.
Leave the main streets and piazzas and you’ll be rewarded by Taormina’s quiet corners.
Find lovely galleries and shops on Taormina’s small narrow streets off the Corso Umberto I.
This deconsecrated church is now a gallery on a small street off the Corso Umberto.
Taking a break in Taormina.
There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets in Taormina, but if you like arancini—a Sicilian specialty that is basically a big rice ball stuffed with delicious cheese, meats and/or vegetables, (tastes so much better than it sounds) you must go to Antica Rosticceria da Cristina. It’s at 2 Via Strabone—a little alley off the Piazza del Duomo near the Excelsior Hotel This is a carry out place so you’ll queue up, choose your favorite (I like the original), grab a drink and then either eat at one of their very few tables or walk up to the little park outside the Porta Catania (go left after you walk back up the alley towards the main street) and enjoy your al fresco lunch.
Try da Christina for arancini in Taormina.
The humble but tasty arancino.
Afterward, treat yourself to some gelato for dessert. My favorite is Gelateria Artigianale O’sciality on Piazza Antonio Abate, just outside the Porta Catania. Yum!
Delicious artisanal gelato in Taormina.
If you’re feeling quite fit, or just need to walk off the arancini and gelato, take a walk up the 700+ steps through the town to the Madonna Della Rocca and the Castello Saraceno. Look for the signposts.
The cross of the church of Madonna della Rocca can be seen from the town of Taormina below.
The steps can be steep and are narrow in some areas, but the views are superb and there are sculptures marking the Stations of the Cross along the way.
Stations of the Cross mark the steps between Madonna della Rocca and the town of Taormina below.
700+ steps lead to Madonna della Rocca from Taormina, Sicily.
There are also benches in some spots so that you can stop and rest. Once you reach the top, visit the small but beautiful church of the Madonna della Rocca, so named because it is built into the rock on which it stands.
The church of Madonna della Rocca is built into the rock on which it stands.
The Castle of the Saracens is not open for touring but you can admire the ruins from a distance.
You can choose to walk down those many, many steps back to town, take a bus which passes just a block below in front of Villa Ducale on Via Leonardo da Vinci or, depending upon the time of day, have the Al Saraceno restaurant or Villa Ducale call a taxi for you. Villa Ducale offers its guests a complimentary shuttle service into town and back. Full disclosure—we walked down the steps into town and took a taxi back up to our hotel. A word about public transportation– there are local ASM city buses, which we took when the schedule was convenient, though no buses ran for several hours in the afternoon, and those run by Interbus (these are blue). Both run regularly and on a schedule. The Interbus goes farther afield than the local bus. Tickets can be purchased on the bus in both cases. Look for the main bus stop just outside the Porta Messina. There is also a taxi stand there.
The views are amazing on the steps between the town of Taormina and Madonna della Rocca. We walked down to town, not up.
If you’ve managed to walk up all those steps, reward yourself with lunch or dinner at Al Saraceno, Via Madonna della Rocca. The food is delicious, well priced and if the weather is nice, the expansive outdoor terrace is open. Again, the views are spectacular. We enjoyed several terrific dinners here.
If you choose to dine at Al Saraceno, make reservations– it’s popular with locals.
Next, we’ll explore a few of Taormina’s beach clubs.
The town of Taormina offers several “must sees” including the Greek Theater and the Public Gardens. The Greek Theater, or Teatro Greco Taormina, was built by the Greeks, possibly in the 3rd Century BC, and rebuilt and expanded by the Romans. The arena is spectacular and is still a venue for all kinds of entertainment ranging from rock to classical music, ballet, and theatrical performances. It is also the home of the Taormina Film Festival. The views over the Bay of Naxos and up to Mt. Etna are amazing. There will be lots and lots of other people sharing the views at what is possibly the most famous, and certainly among the most visited site in Sicily. Even when it’s crowded, it is worth waiting to enter and enjoy the setting.
Taormina’s Teatro Greco is one of the most visited sites in Sicily.
Stunning landscaping at Taormina’s Greek Theater.
After braving the crowds, go next door to the luxurious Grand Hotel Timeo at Via Teatro Greco, 59. If you are staying here, you are indeed fortunate. While we did not, several friends have and loved it. Even if you are not a guest, you can relax with a drink or coffee on their expansive verandah—and once again, enjoy the incredible views. There are many, many lodging options in Taormina at all price points. The Grand Timeo is among the more expensive choices, but it is a very grand property and if you want a location in the heart of Taormina and price is not a consideration, why not?
The lovely terrace at the Grand Hotel Timeo is a fantastic place to relax with a drink or coffee.
The public gardens, Giardini della Villa Comunale, located on Via Bagnoli Croce are gorgeous and blissfully peaceful. Even though they are quite near to the Greek Theater, you’ll rarely encounter crowds while strolling the lovely manicured grounds, which also afford spectacular views.
Taormina’s beautiful public gardens are a peaceful oasis in a busy tourist town.
Giardini della Villa Comunale, Taormina, Sicily.
The gardens were the creation of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an Englishwoman known for her dalliances as well as her botanical interests. Lady Trevelyan included a number of “follies,” buildings included for visual interest but no other real purpose, in her gardens.
A so-called “folly” at the Giardini della Villa Comunale in Taormina, Sicily.
Along with beautiful Mediterranean and exotic flowers, plants and trees that keep the garden colorful all year long, you’ll find a human driven “torpedo” from World War II at Taormina’s Giardini della Villa Comunale. The craft, which operators in the Italian Navy referred to as the Maiale (pig) was electronically propelled and driven by two crewmen in dive suits who steered the torpedo to an enemy ship, detached the warhead, and affixed it to the enemy ship’s hull. Mission accomplished, the divers rode away on the torpedo before the explosion. An interesting find in the public gardens!
The human torpedo nicknamed “Maiale” or pig, at Taormina’s beautiful public gardens.
Note: I’ve chosen to leave this post up as a reminder of what travel was like not that long ago. Let’s hope this experience remains in the rear view mirror!
Remember when we could book an airline ticket, grab our bags and go? Covid has changed how, and even if we travel, for what feels like a long time now. As I prepared for my first international trip in nearly two years last fall, I learned just how different things had become. When I returned to Europe last month, the rules had changed again.
Covid has changed so much about how and even if we can travel.
Vaccination and documentation requirements, for leaving the country and returning, seem to change almost daily both in the USA and abroad. Check government websites for any and all countries you will visit or transit through for updated Covid information. Some countries still require testing, proof of vaccination, and forms that must be completed online before you can board the plane.
We traveled to Italy last fall, transiting through London’s Heathrow airport. We needed proof of a negative Covid test within 72 hours of travel (we scheduled free tests cvs.com), a completed EU locator formeuplf.eu, a UK locator formgov.uk, an Italian Declaration Statementesteri.it, our vaccine card showing at least two doses, and of course, USA passport, before we could obtain our boarding passes. The UK has no restrictions right now, and masks are no longer required there or on planes or airports in the EU. When we went to Portugal and Spain last month we still needed to test to enter Portugal and locator forms were also required. Had we flown into Spain, none of that would have been necessary.
We didn’t realize we needed a UK Locator Form just to pass through Heathrow Airport last fall.All restrictions have been lifted in the UK– for now.
We flew on American Airlines which uses VeriFLY, an app you upload your documents and test results to for easier airport check-in. See if your airline uses one of these services. I wish we had downloaded it before we started our trip– we would’ve known we needed the UK Locator form before we got to the airport, saving time and undue stress as we scrambled to complete the form on our phones before we could check in.
If your airline uses an app like VeriFLY download it– it makes check-in much easier and lets you know exactly which forms you’ll need before you head to the airport.
I strongly suggest you carry paper copies of all of your documentation in case you can’t access digital copies. Not only did we need these to obtain our boarding passes, but also on arrival in the UK, before we boarded our flight to Rome and again when we landed in Rome. We also had to show negative Covid test results, vaccine card and EU locator forms when we checked in to our first hotel in Italy. This spring, we used Verifly again and it made life a lot easier!
Check specific requirements for every country you plan to visit.
Carry your Covid-19 vaccination card at all times. You will be showing it a lot if you’re traveling in an EU country. In Italy we needed our vaccine cards to enter all buildings including museums, shops, restaurants, hotels—nearly everywhere we went. In Spain and Portugal we rarely needed to show it, though we kept it handy just in case.
A clear plastic sleeve will help protect your card. I got ours on amazon.com. At the moment EU citizens and people from 16 other countries can get a digital “green pass” but most Americans cannot ec.europa.eu.
You’ll show your vaccination card at the Green Pass check everywhere you go. Keep it handy!
Bring disposable masks. Mask mandates are changing all the time. They are still required in many places where social distancing is not possible in the EU and other parts of the world. No discussion. No exceptions. Wear your mask if you’re asked to.
Masks may be required in EU countries and many other parts of the world.
Check your documents! Is your passport up to date? And by that, I mean will it be valid six months from your scheduled departure? If not, renew it now and be prepared to pay extra to expedite this if necessary. Everything takes longer in the time of Covid. I just renewed mine. It took six weeks with expedited processing, though the website said it could take up to 11 weeks. For more visit travel.state.gov.
Make copies of yourpassport and leave at least one copy at home with a friend or family member. Keep one with you in a secure location and keep a copy on your phone. This will come in handy if your passport goes missing. Having a color copy helped my husband get a replacement passport in a hurry when his was stolen in London. It also was helpful for the police report he had to file before the new one could be issued. Never pack your passport in a checked bag. When you’ve reached your destination lock it in your hotel safe and carry a color copy. Do not leave it in your room unsecured.
Be sure your passport is valid for six months from your departure date.
Notify your bank and credit card companies that you will be traveling abroad. Nothing will ruin your trip faster than having your credit card frozen because of fraud concerns. Make a note of contact numbers for your cards and keep it in a secure location in case they’re lost or stolen. If you don’t already have a four- digit pin, create one as soon as possible.
We haven’t always been notified when a flight has been delayed or cancelled.Check your travel plans with your airline regularly.
Check in with your airline regularly. Flights are cancelled and changed with shocking frequency these days. Both our outbound and return flights were cancelled, rescheduled, and changed again before we left for Italy. Our return trip from Madrid last month was cancelled the same day we were scheduled to fly and we got a “bonus” day there. Your airline will also have updated Covid information for the countries you’ll be visiting.
Book your rental car ASAP. Rental cars are harder to come by and much more expensive than they used to be. This is true everywhere. The sooner you book the more likely you’ll get what you want and at a better price. Try autoslash.com for price comparisons for the major rental companies.
Coming home can be fraught with anxiety these days as everyone must be tested for Covid before returning to the USA. We are one of the few remaining countries to require this and it is not as easy to organize as it was even last fall. At the moment rapid tests taken within 24-hours of departure are needed. Your hotel can usually book you an appointment. Ours had a nurse come to our room in Madrid to administer the test. If you’re going elsewhere, bring your passport to the testing appointment–you will need it to receive your documentation. We paid 50 Euro each in cash in Madrid for our tests in April. Last year in Rome it was 22 Euro each at a pharmacy. Be aware that some pharmacies do not test on the weekend, appointments are required, and because few countries require tests, not all will provide necessary documentation.
You still need proof of a negative Covid test to return to the USA. Check for current requirements.
Summing it up—Check current requirements for all countries you’ll visit or transit through, as well as testing needs for returning, and make appointments in advance. Keep your vaccination card handy. Be flexible– and very patient. Now go out in the world, be safe, and have fun!
Note– This article was originally written in January 2022 and updated in May 2022.
Happy New Year! In the year ahead we’re looking forward to returning to some of our favorite European cities including Berlin, Florence and Rome. We’re also planning a first time visit to Milan, named #1 travel destination for 2015 by the New York Times.
Florence, Italy
We’ll also be back to Portland, OR, San Francisco, Los Angeles and other U.S. destinations still to be determined.
