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Free, Fun Things to Do in Rome This Summer– or Anytime!

Lagoon in the Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

Heading to Rome this summer? You won’t be alone. This year, Rome expects to host 35 million visitors, up from 13 million in 2024. It is a Jubilee Year in the Catholic Church—a celebration with events and activities throughout the year jubilaeum2025.va, and there is a new, American Pope. It is going to be very, very crowded in Rome and prices for everything are going to be higher. Go anyway.

To help you keep costs down while still enjoying the magic of Rome, I’ve put together a list of some of my favorite free (and almost free) things to do in the Eternal City.

Visit the Vatican

St. Peter's Basilica in Rome — *You must visit St. Peter’s Basilica at least once. Why not during the Jubilee Year?*

Yes, there will be crowds, but how can you visit Rome and not see St. Peter’s? Entry to the Basilica and crypt is always free and tickets are not required. Lines are shorter early in the morning but there are always lines. If you are there to pray and would like to enter through the Porte Santa, (the Holy Doors) which are open only during the Jubilee Year, ask one of the guards and they may let you proceed directly. No promises. You can also attend mass at St. Peter’s but be on time and dress appropriately –shoulders and knees must be covered–or risk being denied entry. The Basilica is closed during the Pope’s Wednesday public audience until 1 p.m. You need to purchase a ticket to visit the Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museums or Gardens but it is worth it. Order now for a summer visit if you haven’t already!

Meet the Pope

*The Pope speaks from his balcony every Sunday but you could get lucky and see him in St. Peter’s Square.*

Every Wednesday morning (except in July and important Church feast days) the Pope holds a general audience for thousands of well-wishers either outside in the piazza in front of St. Peter’s or in the nearby auditorium. Tickets are free. Write to the Pontifical North American College pnac.org no later than two weeks before you’d like to attend, but as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

Collect your tickets in person at PNAC offices near the Piazza Navona on the Tuesday before your visit. Newlyweds can apply to sit in the special Sposi Novelli section near the Holy Father. The audience is general seating but try to get an aisle seat for the best chance of an encounter with the Pope. Be warned, it was chaotic when we went to an audience in the auditorium. People were clambering over chairs (and other people) to try to shake the Pope’s hand. Go early as you will have to pass through security.

Take a Walk in the Borghese Gardens

*Rome’s Borghese Gardens are full of fountains, sculpture and plenty of places to sit and relax.*

Located at the top of the Via Veneto, these beautiful gardens are to Rome what Central Park is to New York City. Once the private parklands of the powerful Borghese family, they’ve been open to the public since 1903. There are fountains, sculptures, and the Orolgio al Aqua del Pincio—a water powered clock from 1867 that’s still ticking along!

Orlogio al Aqua del Pincio Water clock in Rome's Borghese Gardens — *This water-powered clock has been keeping time since 1867.*

Bring a picnic and enjoy the views over the lagoon or pick a bench and people watch—it’s the perfect place for it. There’s a dog park, playing fields, even a riding rink where you can admire the equestrian skills of riders putting their horses through their paces.

There are plenty of things to do in the Gardens of the Villa Borghese. Or you can just relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. Weekends are busy with families out enjoying the day and sometimes there are special events in the park. We came across a chocolate festival a few years ago– very tasty!

*Rent a bike, a trike or a boat in the Borghese Gardens for more family fun.*

For a small fee, you can rent a boat, a bicycle or a kart, or ride the carousel. The world-renowned Galleria Borghese is here, too, galeriaborghese.beniculturi.it with its collection of works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Titian and other masters. The museum has a private sculpture garden, too. It is not free but absolutely worth a visit and must be booked in advance online.

*The Museo Canonica is one of* the eight free City of Rome Museums.

The Pietro Canonica Museum museocanonica.it/en which features the sculptor’s work, is also in the park and because it is a City of Rome Museum, is free.

Enjoy Art, Archeology, and History for Free

*Rome’s free city museums feature fine art, antiquities, fossils and ancient artifacts.*

The City of Rome’s eight free museums are sure to delight and entertain most visitors. These small museums present everything from fine art to fossils, and ancient Egyptian artifacts to Napoleonic family heirlooms. They each focus on a specific area.

*The Napoleonic Museum is free and worth a visit to see the Bonaparte family’s art and personal belongings, many with historical relevance.*

In no particular order, the free Comune di Roma Museums include: Napoleonic Museum (a grand palazzo with art and belongings from generations of the Bonaparte family), Museo delle Mura (archeology museum inside the Aurelian Walls), Pietro Canonica Museum (the sculptor’s works exhibited in “the little fortress”–his home and studio), Casal de’ Pazzi Museum (archeology), Carlo Bilotti Museum (contemporary art), Museo della Memoria Garibaldina (Italian history), Giovanni Barracco Museum (ancient Middle Eastern arts and artifacts and Classical Greek sculpture), and Villa Massenzio (Imperial Roman villa on the Appia Antica).

*You’ll rarely fight crowds at Rome’s smaller, less known museums.*

Visit museiincomuneroma.it for details on each of these small treasure- filled museums. Not only are they free, but in my experience, and I’ve visited almost all of them, they are rarely crowded.

Explore the Neighborhoods

Villa Torlonia Gardens — *Leave the center of the city and explore Rome’s vibrant and interesting neighborhoods.*

There is a lot more to explore in Rome than the Centro Storica, the city’s historic center, though of course you’ll spend time there, especially if this is your first visit. Head out to the upscale Nomentana neighborhood and enjoy another lovely park at the Villa Torlonia museivillatorlonia.it/en.

*The gardens surrounding the Villa Torlonia are open to the public and one of the few “English” gardens in Rome.*

This is one of the few sprawling English-style gardens in Rome and it is free to enter. We have seen yoga classes, kids playing soccer, picnickers, and people just relaxing in this lovely green space. There are also sculptures and a grand obelisk in the park to enjoy.

*You can visit the Villa Torlonia, Mussolini’s former home, for free on the first Sunday of the month as part of the Domenica al Museo program.*

Mussolini and his family made their home at the Villa Torlonia from 1925-1943. He rented the VIlla for one lira a year, which is less than you’ll pay to enter the Villa, now a museum. The ticket also includes entry to the Little Owl House and a contemporary art gallery on the grounds. Mussolini’s underground bunker requires a separate ticket and has more limited hours.

Owl House at Villa Torlonia in Rome — *The art-filled Casa delle Civette is included with admission to the Museo Villa Torlonia.*

After your visit to the park and villa, go around the corner to my favorite gelateria- Guttilla Alta Gelateria. It’s not free but costs less than five euro for a three-scoop cone topped with panna (cream) and a cookie!

ice cream cones from the gelato shop Guttilia — *Take a break and enjoy a gelato!*

There are many neighborhoods outside the city center that all have something enriching to offer from markets to museums. Rome’s public transportation system is inexpensive and makes it easy to get around. We use it frequently, especially when we want to visit a more far flung location like Cine Citta, which while not free, I highly recommend if you’d like to do something completely different on your Roman holiday.

Unless you’re traveling at rush hour (and why would you?) buses and subways are convenient, affordable, and not terribly crowded.

Have a Wander

*The 19th century Galerie Sciarra is one of Rome’s “hidden” treasures. FInd it on Via Marco Minghetti.*

Wandering Rome’s cobbled streets is one of the great free pleasures of a visit here. You never know what you’ll find as you explore the streets of this beautiful city. We came upon this gorgeous frescoed late 19th galleria completely by accident. We also saw a college graduation (champagne corks popping) near the Colosseum, nuns and gladiators on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, and heard an impromptu acappella concert in a park as we made our way to the Scuderie del Quirinale.

*We walked by a college graduation celebration with champagne, laurel crowns and happy families.*

Stroll around the Jewish Quarter or the Trastevere, which means across the Tiber. The Flaminia neighborhood has plenty of shops and a great contemporary art museum– MAXXI italia.it/en/lazio/rome/maxxi-museum. It’s free on the first Sunday of the month, as are many of the Musei di Comune di Roma that typically require tickets, including the Centrale Montemartini where you’ll find classic sculpture displayed in Rome’s first power plant, and the MACRO satellite with its multimedia and contemporary art. Both are in outlying neighborhoods, respectively in Ostiense and the Testaccio, a former slaughterhouse area that’s now home to top restaurants, local markets and museums, of course.

Domenica Al Museo– Free First Sundays

*The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art is part of the Sunday at the Museum Program.*

For a complete list of museums, monuments and sites that participate in Domenica al Museo, the free on first Sundays program, visit cultura.gov.it but be aware that special exhibitions will still require a paid ticket. A MIC pass will give you further discounts for ticketed museums and special exhibits, if you are eligible for it.

Swiss Institute

The Swiss Institute, housed in a stunning early 20th century palazzo, often hosts free contemporary art exhibitions that change regularly, lectures and other events.

The gardens are spectacular, too. Check out current offerings here.

Pick a Piazza and Drink Up!

*Rome’s Piazza Navona is one of the city’s best known squares and home to museums, churches and restaurants as well as the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (four rivers).*

From the popular Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori to small, tucked away piazzetti, you’ll stumble upon plenty of places to ponder and people watch across the city. You’ll also find public fountains everywhere–usually good places to sit and relax a bit. There are 2,500 fountains within the city of Rome according to several sources.

Piazetta di Vicolo in Rome, Italy — *The Piazetta di Vicolo di San Simeone is one of the many small piazzas throughout the city. The Taverna Agape here is good for a casual meal.*

Wherever you find a piazza or piazzetta, there’s almost always a bar nearby for a quick espresso. Drink it standing up like the locals do, and if you stop into a popular place like Sant’ Eustachio, be ready to order or they’ll pass you by. An espresso is still only a few euro in most places. Remember, everything costs more if you sit at a table than if you stand at the bar and no milky drinks after breakfast please.

The Porter's Fountain in Rome, Italy — *The Fountain of the Porter dates back to 1580.*

Fun fact–Rome’s drinking fountains are often called “nasoni” because many are shaped like big noses. And yes, the water is safe to drink in all Roman fountains, so bring your water bottle and fill it up!

See the Forum for Free

*The Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most iconic modern structures.*

Often called the “wedding cake” or the “typewriter”, the Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most recognizable modern structures. Located in the busy Piazza Venezia, it honors Italy’s first king and the unification of the country. Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is here. Climb the white marble steps and head to the rear of the Altare della Patria–you’ll have a splendid view over the Forum for free. Do not sit on the stairs. You can take a glass elevator to the very top for even better views for a fee. The ticket includes access to the Museum of the Risorgimento inside the monument and an audio guide. The Imperial Forum and the Colosseum are not free but participate in the Domenica al Museo program (first Sundays free) but lines will be very long. An Architectural Pass or Roma Pass help save money and skip the long lines.

Window Shop

It costs nothing to admire the designer goods and fabulous fashions on display in the windows along the Via Condotti and Via del Babuino–if you can resist the temptation of Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and other fashionista favorites. Via del Corso has lots of shopping, too, at a more affordable price point.

*Clever window displays always draw a crowd.*

If you’re looking to do more than admire the window displays, head over to the Via del Corso for more affordable shopping. To visit the Rinascente, Italy’s premier department store, take a walk down the Via Tritone. Check out the views from their rooftop bar/cafe.

The Spanish Steps

Spanish Steps and Trinita dei Monti — *Sooner or later, everyone stops by the Spanish Steps. Please do not sit down.*

It’s always free to walk up and down the Spanish Steps but do not sit down or you will risk a sizable fine. Head up the steps to Trinita dei Monti and enjoy the beautiful church and the views towards St. Peter’s Basilica. At the bottom of the stairs is the Fontana della Baraccia, Via del Corso, and the famous Via Condotti for upscale shopping.

Cozy Up to Cats

*It’s hard to see them in this photo, but plenty of cats call Rome’s Largo di Argentina home.*

The Cat Sanctuary at Largo di Argentina is home to hundreds of feral felines that are fed, vaccinated, neutered, and adopted out by a legion of volunteers. The sanctuary, which was nearly evicted from these ancient Roman ruins in 2012, is free to visit but depends upon donations to continue its work. Stop by to admire the ancient Roman foundations and watch the kitties at play. Give them a few euro while you’re there.

More Art For Free

*Step inside Rome’s “identical” churches to enjoy the art and see how different they actually are.*

Rome’s artistic treasures aren’t all in museums. Even some of the city’s smaller churches have amazing art which we’ve discovered by stopping into many that looked interesting to us. We’ve seen incredible sculpture, paintings, frescoes and tapestries simply by chance.

man blowing massive bubbles in Piazza di Popolo Rome, Italy — *This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.*

*This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.*

For another cultural treat, head over to the Piazza del Popolo. There’s always something entertaining going on there and it is also home to Rome’s so-called twin churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto. The baroque exteriors are quite similar, but once inside you’ll see that though beautiful, the churches are not at all identical.

*You can pay one euro each to illuminate Caravaggio’s spectacular Conversion of Saint Paul and Crucifixion of St. Peter. Both are in the north transept of th*e *Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo.*

Closer to the Aurelian Walls near the Fountain of Neptune and the Goddess of Rome Fountain, you’ll find the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo. The church has two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces along with works by other artists including Bernini and Raphael, and frescoes by Pinturicchio. Make it a point to visit here.

Visit Rome’s Official Cathedral– It is Not St. Peter’s!

Last year the Basilica of San Giovanni di Laterano celebrated its 1700th anniversary. It is one of the most important in Rome, the oldest in Europe and the only archbasilica in the world. It serves as the seat of the bishop of Rome aka, the Pope, and is the official Cathedral of Rome, not St. Peter’s. The Altar of the Holy Sacrament contains a table said to be used at the Last Supper.

After your visit, cross the plaza and climb the Scala Santa or sacred steps. This wood- encased marble staircase is believed to have been brought from the home of Pontius Pilate by St. Helene, Emperor Constantine’s mother. Pilgrims climb the 28 steps on their knees in a display of piety, and historically, to seek indulgence– the fast track to heaven. Important relics are kept here including fragments of the True Cross. Both St. John’s and the Pontifical Shrine of the Holy Stairs are free. Appropriate dress is required and no photos are allowed here.

Savor the Sunset

*The Pincio Terrazzo overlooking the Piazza del Poppolo is the perfect spot to watch the sun setting over St. Peter’s dome.*

One of the best and most popular places to view the setting sun in Rome is the Pincio Terrace in the Borghese Gardens overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. Locals and tourists stand shoulder to shoulder, waiting for the magic moment, oohing and aahing in languages from all over the world. It is the perfect way to end the day in this always enchanting and often surprising city.

*You’ll have plenty of company on the Pincio Terrace watching the sunset.*

This is by no means an exhaustive list of free things to do in Rome but will get you started. Have fun and share your discoveries with us in your comments or by email!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Liguria’s Enduring Allure: Exploring the Cinque Terre, Portofino and Camogli

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline, stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

**Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.**

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. We settled on Camogli, midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the ever- popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns. We had a rental car and planned to drive from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps, to the Ligurian coast.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels (the Italians call them galleries) and quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

***We were stuck in a tunnel for more than an hour*— *watching them kept my mind off it!***

This was the distraction I needed for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool. It was nice to have a choice of the pool or the private beach and we often used both!

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

We had phoned ahead (from the tunnel), and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. We tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable, before heading upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

**The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.**

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

**You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.**

**These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.**

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

*Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!*

The early festivals used smaller cookware but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. This year, three tons of fish, fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil, were served. In all, 30,000 portions were prepared by volunteers. Hungry attendees are asked to contribute 6 Euro each, all of which goes to charity. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

*Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.*

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare*. *It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that!

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm! Beaches in this area are covered in cobbles, not sand, so bring your aqua socks.*

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta towers over the harbor behind it and the public beach in front of it.*

The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Many beaches in this area are filled with smooth stones rather than sand, so pack your aqua socks. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet!

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach that we didn’t visit but seemed to be doing a good business. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

**The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.**

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre–Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns. It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess!

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, and waited some more. We were not enjoying the highly touted charms of Riomaggiore. We decided to get on a train heading north and pay a visit to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised we just get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south. On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were also plenty of tourists, which at this point was not unexpected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, we had planned to visit was closed, though we’d checked the website first.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you’ll typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake. This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” –he didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. A conductor came along and when I showed him our tickets he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

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