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Springbreak

Fairbanks in Summer: Fun Under the Midnight Sun

Once the “greening” begins, it’s a sure sign that Spring has arrived in Fairbanks, Alaska. Summer is on its way. Trees that have lain dormant and shrubs and wildflowers that have been buried under the snow erupt in a riot of blooms and buds. 

The time to see the exuberant sky show known as the Northern Lights has passed, but the Midnight Sun will keep things light all night in our 49th state until late August. There are plenty of late Spring and Summertime activities to keep visitors busy in Alaska’s far northern interior once the snow goes. Here are some suggestions:

Rolling On the River

A ride on the Riverboat DIscovery III is a great way to learn about Northern Interior Alaska’s history, culture and people.

Take a ride on the Tanana River aboard the Riverboat Discovery III with Captain Wade Binkley. His grandfather began piloting boats up and down the river decades ago transporting passengers and supplies to those living along this important tributary.

Riverboats and dog sleds have been the most reliable means of transporting people and goods up and down the river for decades.

 I had a chance to chat with Captain Wade in the wheelhouse. He, like his father before him, worked on the Discovery every summer during high school and college, learning the ins and outs of the river and the boats.

Captain Wade Binkley carries on the tradition began by his grandfather.
Relax and enjoy the spectacular scenery while you learn about this fascinating area.

These days, after a hearty lunch in the on-land dining room, tourists queue to climb aboard the big paddle wheel riverboat for an unforgettable trip into Alaskan history. 

We learned a lot about the region, dog mushing, and native culture on our journey with our group from the North American Travel Journalists Association.  We even met some reindeer!

Domesticated reindeer were introduced to the Seward Peninsula from Siberia in the 1800s to alleviate food shortages. Both male and female reindeer of this species sport antlers.

Sled Dogs

As we cruised along, David Monson, husband of the late Susan Butcher, Iditarod champion (four- time winner and only the second woman to win the grueling dog sled race), provided an entertaining and informative sled dog demonstration on the shore. We watched and cheered from the boat. 

Susan Butcher’s legacy lives on at the sled dog kennel she and her husband founded on the banks of the Tanana River.
These sled dogs and their handlers demonstrate what it takes to be part of a winning team.

He showed off his prize-winning dogs from Trail Breaker Kennel, which he and his late wife established in 1976. We saw first-hand how the older dogs tutor the young ones in the skills they’ll need to succeed as sled dogs. We also learned how important the dogs are for survival in this inhospitable climate where roads are few and far between.

A visit to Chena Village was a highlight of our riverboat ride.

Athabaskan Culture

We continued along the waterway to an Athabascan Fish Camp called Chena Village.  These camps were typically inhabited only during summer months when native Alaskans would fish, hunt and preserve their catch in preparation for the long, hard winter ahead. 

Salmon was a dietary mainstay not just for the Athabaskan people, but their dogs as well. We watched an informative demonstration showing how salmon is prepared for drying and smoking.

Docents explain what life was like at traditional Athabascan Fish Camps.
Fur trappers built these simple huts for shelter in subzero winter months when most go hunting. Anyone can use the huts but are expected to replace used supplies and firewood for the next inhabitants.

Athabaskan Fashion

We also saw a fashion show of sorts, featuring the many garments necessary for living in this frigid terrain. Moose leather, beaver, caribou and muskrat fur play a key role in traditional Athabascan winter wear. Fur is more a necessity than a fashion statement here, where winter temperatures can hover around -50F.

Traditional Athabascan winter wear.
Fur is key in Alaska’s subzero temps.

Athabascans are a subsistence-based culture and put everything to use from salmon skin to the fur and hides of the animals they hunt.  Many Athabascans now live in Fairbanks and surrounding areas year round. Conventional camps have mostly been abandoned. We were told some families still gather in summer months at fish camps like the one we visited, though.

The Tanana River is a 584- mile long tributary of the Yukon River.

Our captain’s grandmother came out on the riverbank to wave enthusiastically, as we enjoyed the scenery on our way back. We soon returned to the dock where cocktails and shopping awaited us.

We got a good deal on waterproof parkas, which came in handy on our Holland America cruise the following week. Others stocked up on cute and cozy pjs, sweatshirts and other Alaska-themed merchandise. 

Cultural Exchange

Learn about Athabascan culture, local history and habitats, and pick up visitor information at Fairbank’s Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center

Our interest in all things Athabascan was piqued after our riverboat ride and we were excited to learn more at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center.  We met local artisans who displayed and sold their work including jewelry, hand-beaded and embroidered clothing, paintings and handcrafted baskets. 

Athabascan people are known for their intricate beading and embroidery work.
We had the chance to meet the artisans who created the handicrafts for sale.

Local tribal members performed several dances and explained the symbolism of every move and sound we heard.  A woman drummer accompanied the dancers, which is still rare in Athabaskan culture. We even got to sing and dance along to their ice cream song, which shows and tells how to make the treat arctic style!

We heard first-hand from native Athabascans about their traditions and were treated to a fantastic musical program.

The Morris Thompson Cultural Center and Tanana Chiefs Conference partner to provide classes and Athabascan cultural programs to residents and visitors.

Take time to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Morris Thompson Cultural Center.

Admission is free and the center has a wealth of information for visitors, in addition to outstanding exhibitions that explain the area’s history, habitats and cultures.

Cool Cars and Clothes

Gear heads and vintage fashion fans– head to the Fountainhead Museum.

If vintage cars and clothing are more your speed, the Fountainhead Auto Museum is a must.  We spent several hours ogling the immaculately maintained cars in the museum’s private collection.  The vehicles are displayed with period-appropriate clothing, which made it even more interesting—there’s something for both antique auto fans and fashionistas here. 

The 1905 Sheldon Runabout is billed as “the car that love built” and was the first automobile fabricated in Alaska.

Alaskan Ingenuity

The first car built in Alaska is exhibited here and as the story goes, a young man in Skagway, desperate to win the affections of a certain young woman, thought if he only had a car, he could court her in style and win her affections. His rival was a doctor’s son who had a fancy horse and carriage. 

Never having seen one, 22-year-old Bobby Sheldon built a car from found items including a discarded wagon, miner’s headlamps, a gas pipe (used for a steering tiller) and ordered a brass horn from Sears & Roebuck.  He may not have gotten the girl in the end, but he and his car are memorialized at the museum. 

The Fountainhead Auto Museum was founded by Tim Cerny who began his collection with a 1951 Dodge Wayfarer in 1976.  The 30,000 square foot museum exhibits 60 vintage vehicles at a time.

Imagine seeing this classic car cruising around Fairbanks. All the cars in the collection are taken for a spin regularly.

Every car in the collection is in working order and regularly taken for a jaunt around town.  Tim’s wife, Barb Cerny, curates the textile collection which includes garments from the 1700s to the 1930s.

Go North

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a treasure trove of Native art and artifacts.

The Museum of the North at University of Alaska Fairbanks is a short drive out of town and well-worth the trip. The museum contains one of the most comprehensive collections of arctic and sub-arctic Native American art and artifacts anywhere and tells the story of the people and the land in Alaska’s Northern Interior.

Sculpture, collage, paintings and more make up the most comprehensive collection of art by Native Arctic and sub-Arctic people anywhere.
The bear represents strength, power, courage and leadership and is often depicted in artworks here.

Art and artifacts, textiles and taxidermy, are all included in the collections that bring to life the rich history of the area’s first people and those who followed. It’s fascinating to see the unbridled creativity this unforgiving but stunningly beautiful environment has generated.

Plan to spend at least several hours perusing the art galleries and natural exhibitions at the Museum of the North.

Don’t miss “The Place Where You Go to Listen” – a tranquil and transformative experience.

While you’re here, step inside, “The Place Where You Go to Listen.” It’s a unique experience that allows you to feel the earth move subtly around you, watch the light change and listen to the world. 

A Day in Denali

Denali, at 20,310 feet above sea level, is the highest peak in North America.

One of the country’s most spectacular National Parks is about a two-hour drive south of Fairbanks or a relaxing train ride away.  Our group took a bus, which had been pre-arranged. Denali is only visible 20 percent of the time, we learned, even though the peak rises to 20,310 feet and the base is about 2,000 feet above sea level. We were lucky enough to see it both days we visited the park. 

Everyone is welcome at Denali National Park, but special permits are required for anyone intending to hike the mountain and transportation via plane must be arranged. 

Denali’s awe-inspiring scenery draws 600,000 visitors annually.

Our plans were far more modest.  After a welcome briefing from US National Park Rangers (who seemed disappointed that no one in our group had packed bear spray or even bear bells as a safety precaution) we hopped aboard one the many free green buses that traverse the park and headed out into the wilderness. 

Hiking in Denali was on my bucket list for years!

Safety First

Before departing the Visitor Center our driver gave us a safety lesson that included what to do if you encounter wild life, how to use the radio in case he was incapacitated (it could happen he assured us), and how to access the first aid kit—stark reminders that cell phones don’t work here and you are on your own in this stunning natural environment that is, in fact, home to animals that can kill you.

A fleet of these green buses take visitors far into the Park.
Don’t hike alone– it is safer and more fun with friends anyway!

We were cautioned to never hit the trails alone, to talk or sing as we hiked so if bears were in the area they would hear us and stay away, and to never approach wild animals, ever! Denali National Park is an incredibly beautiful place but it is a wilderness. I’m happy to report we enjoyed hiking amid the awe-inspiring scenery, singing as we went. We spotted moose from a long way away—and saw no bears!

Adorable and very friendly, Munchkin is just one of Denali’s hard working sled dogs.

We also had a chance to see sled dogs up close at Denali.  There are regularly scheduled demonstrations where the dogs and the rangers show off their skills. Visitors can meet the dogs before and after the demos. 

Staying in Shape

We learned that in summer months, park employees volunteer to take the dogs out for exercise so they’ll stay in shape for their winter work, which includes bringing rangers and equipment far afield in the Park once snow renders the roads impassable.

The Alaska Railroad is the only one with rooftop observation cars.
Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad from Denali to Fairbanks is unparalleled!

Gold Star Service on the Alaska Railroad

After a busy day exploring the this natural wonder, we enjoyed Gold Star service aboard the Alaska Railroad. Our trip back to Fairbanks included dinner, drinks and an opportunity to enjoy the area’s incredible natural beauty from the only rooftop railway observation cars in the state. It was a glorious ending to what was a bucket list day for me.

If You Go

Fairbanks has it all–hiking, biking, kayaking, even midnight baseball!

When summer comes, Fairbanks has plenty of options for fishing, rafting, hiking, and other outdoor activities as well as annual events like the Midnight Sun Run and Midnight Baseball.  The Chena Hot Springs get rave reviews at any time of year and a drive or flight to the Arctic Circle is easily arranged. You can also enjoy Christmas year-round at North Pole, just a 20-minute drive from Fairbanks. Visit explorefairbanks.com for more!

The midnight sun keeps things light in Fairbanks. It was nearly 11 pm when I took this photo in mid-May.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in a town that not enough people from “the lower 48” get to experience. Don’t miss out on this fascinating destination!

Fun fact– Fairbanks is one of the best locations in the world to see the Aurora Borealis.  To enjoy nature’s spectacular light show, plan to visit between August 21 and April 21. That’s next on my wish list!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Semana Santa: How to Celebrate Holy Week in Spain

Throughout Spain, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, known as Semana Santa or Holy Week, is one of the most important of the year. Spaniards observe Semana Santa joyously and solemnly.  Each afternoon and evening from Palm Sunday through Easter Sunday, people, sometimes numbering in the thousands, gather in city streets and town squares. They celebrate a Catholic tradition that dates back at least to the 15th century—to the reign of the Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.

The Story of the Passion

During the reign of the Catholic monarchs, as Isabella and Ferdinand were known, the population was mostly illiterate. To reach as many people as possible, they told the story of Christ’s resurrection in a way that was easily understood and that has endured for centuries, through processions.

Processions on each day of Semana Santa correspond to the story of Christ’s Passion, Death, and Resurrection with different pasos depicting specific biblical scenes from the New Testament. Here’s our experience:

In Ronda, one of Andalusia’s famous “white towns,” Jesus is shown arriving in Jerusalem on his donkey on Palm Sunday. This is the beginning of Holy Week.

500 Years of Tradition in Spain

We arrived in Madrid for the first time on a Maundy Thursday. The Thursday before Easter commemorates Christ’s Last Supper and is one of the Catholic Church’s holiest days. Though it was after 9 p.m., we were confident we’d find plenty of dinner options in a city known for dining late. Instead, we found one restaurant after another closed.

Finally, at the Bar Santa Clara, the proprietor explained most places were closed not due to the hour, but to the day. He pointed out it was Holy Week and that in Madrid people take Easter very seriously.  

He said we could have “anything on toast,” but that was all they would serve that evening. We ordered everything available; cheese, tomatoes, anchovies, and ham. All on toast.

Good Friday is one of the most important days in Holy Week and the pasos and processions are fittingly elaborate. It was well after midnight when this Good Friday procession returned to Toledo’s Cathedral.

We returned to our apartment behind the Prado Museum close to midnight. Just as were getting ready for bed, our son excitedly announced that he “heard a parade”.  We followed the pounding of drums and the heady scent of incense down our street towards San Jeronimo. That’s the church favored by Spain’s Royal Family. Sure enough, a candlelit procession appeared out of the dark.

Processions

We watched columns of marchers in various colored robes, faces covered, wearing tall, pointed hats.  It was unsettling. Next, swaying to the music and moving slowly, came an enormous float featuring a life-sized Christ figure.  The floats are called pasos.

Beneath it, we could see the strained faces of the men who somberly carried it on their shoulders.  We watched until the entire procession passed into the church.

The Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, one of the most beautiful in Spain, filled in minutes before the procession began.

We didn’t understand the scale of Holy Week celebrations in Spain, or their importance, until the next evening. We found ourselves caught up in enormous crowds between four different processions around the Plaza Mayor. This, we began to understand, was how they celebrate Semana Santa here. We joined in.

Sevilla is famous for its elaborate Semana Santa celebrations.

Preparing for Semana Santa

Fast forward a few years and we are in Sevilla.  Though the Semana Santa festivities won’t begin for another week, preparations are well underway.  Colorful banners hang from balconies lining the procession routes that crisscross the city.

Workers erect barricades and set up chairs and bleachers in key locations for those privileged few with tickets. Most onlookers crowd streets and sidewalks waiting and watching for the story of the Passion of the Christ to unfold, as it has for 500 years or more.

Every detail on the pasos must be perfect. At the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador in Sevilla, members of the cofradia work together to ready their pasos for Holy Week.

Meanwhile, cofradias (also called hermandades) or brotherhoods, are busy in parishes everywhere, painstakingly assembling the lavish pasos. These floats are beautiful works of art. Each features biblical scenes that tell the story of Christ’s Passion, Death and Resurrection from the New Testament.

The Pasos

The pasos hold life-sized statues often handcrafted from wood and can include precious metals. They are laden with candles, fresh flowers, and icons. The most beautiful of these hold a single statue, the Madonna or Senora Dolarosa, the grieving mother of Christ.

The Madonna wears an elaborate cape, often hand- embroidered with gold and silver thread. She is bedecked in gleaming jewels and surrounded by candles and flowers.

Jamie is a member of the confradia at the Church of the Magdalena and one of the 35 to 45 men, called costaleros, who will carry this exquisite paso through the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week.

While the pasos are being readied, you can see them in their parishes. We spent days wandering from church to church in several cities to see these magnificent pasos up close. The exquisite detail of the pasos and the cofradias careful handiwork is even more spectacular up close.

We talked with Jamie, a member of the brotherhood at the Iglesia de Santa Maria Magdalene in Sevilla. He is one of the paso bearers. They are called costaleros and carry the pasos through Sevilla’s cobbled streets.  Sometimes for up to six hours.

He told us some pasos can weigh 5,000 pounds and take between 35 to 45 men to carry.  Only women carry the paso of the Holy Mother in some parishes, as we saw in several processions in Salamanca.

Pasos, like this one at the Monastery of San Juan do los Reyes in Toledo, are on display in churches during Holy week. Visiting different parishes gives you the chance to admire the careful craftsmanship that goes into these spectacular floats up close.

How it Begins

Shortly before a procession begins, the sidewalks and streets swell with families who seem to appear from nowhere. A carnival-like atmosphere prevails. There are street vendors selling sweets and snacks, drinks, balloons, tiny penitent figures and other souvenirs.

Soon, the incense smoke thickens, music starts, and the excitement in the air is palpable. Fathers hoist their young children onto their shoulders, and everyone crowds closer and often right into the street where the procession will pass.

Who Marches

Some processions have only drummers; most have full marching bands, and sometimes participants sing or chant. Depending on the size and importance of a brotherhood, parish, and the day in Holy Week, there will be numerous pasos in a single procession.

People fill the streets and vendors with balloons, toys, sweets and drinks create a carnival-like atmosphere before and after Semana Santa processions.

Embroidered banners announce the cofradias; a priest with a silver cross leads children carrying incense or lanterns. Nazarenos in their colored robes, faces covered by capuz or hoods, and hats called capirote pointing high to the heavens, follow. These are the penitents.

Then there are the Mujeres de la Mantilla. These ladies dress all in black, from their lacey veils to their shoes. They process silently and somberly, carrying candles and rosary beads.  

Everywhere in Spain, men, women and children march slowly through the streets during Semana Santa’s processions, each with a role to play in this ancient ritual.

Young, old, believers or not, everyone crowds onto Spanish streets, like this one in Granada, to watch the traditional processions that mark Semana Santa.

It’s Emotional

It is magical and emotional to be a part of this. Many people cry silently with tears streaming down their faces, some sob violently. Others cheer and clap, or watch quietly, as the exquisite pasos pass by, but there are no blank expressions. These processions touch people at the most visceral level. Finally, the pasos will re-enter the church they left from hours before. The streets empty almost as quickly as they filled.

The Senora Delarosa represents Christ’s grieving mother, the Virgin Mary. These beautiful sculptures are bedecked in jewels and exquisite garments, and surrounded with fresh flowers and candles. They usually follow the other pasos in Holy Week processions.

How to Prepare

Every city we visited during this sacred time of year has procession routes and schedules available online and/or in print. Look for the booklets in cafes, shops and bars. This is valuable information for visitors to either find or avoid the processions.

Be aware of street closures. Whole areas of a city may be closed to traffic. Even passing on foot is extremely difficult, especially during the most important processions like on Good Friday. Sevilla, Toledo, Malaga and other cities have Semana Santa apps, updated annually. Download them on your iPhone.

The Risen Christ greets onlookers from this paso at an Easter Sunday procession approaching Salamanca’s Cathedral.

We have been fortunate to celebrate Semana Santa and Easter Sunday in Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, Granada, Toledo, and Salamanca. Each city offered a unique and beautiful experience. No matter which region you visit, Semana Santa is an incredible time to be in Spain. It’s not too soon to begin planning for next year.

If You Go

Be prepared for huge crowds during Semana Santa.

Streets and sometimes whole areas of a city close to traffic during Holy Week. Try not to arrive in your destination city during or right before a major procession. You may not be able to reach your hotel.

Download the Semana Santa app many cities offer or check with your hotel or the local tourist office for maps and procession times.

Make hotel reservations early for the Easter holidays. Be sure to book reservations for dinner as soon as possible. Leave plenty of time if your restaurant is anywhere near a procession route.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support.

This article, photographs and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Law and may not be reproduced or used without permission from the publisher.