restaurants

Tuscan Tables: Where to Eat In and Around Panzano

Finding great places to enjoy the local cuisine can be part of the adventure when you’re traveling, but sometimes it’s nice to have at least a couple of dining recommendations. Here are a few of our “go to” restaurants in and around Panzano in Chianti:

One of our all time favorites for an elegant and delicious dinner and/or lunch in the countryside near Panzano is La Locanda di Pietracupa in San Donato in Poggio. The restaurant’s dining room is understated and polished but it’s the cuisine here that really shines. Credit for the inventive, refined rifts on Tuscan cuisine go to the two young couples who own the restaurant. They take fresh, local ingredients and give them a delightful and sophisticated twist. In the autumn, enjoy lighter than air ravioli stuffed with pumpkin, while summer brings tagliolini topped with delicate zucchini blossoms and truffle. The filet of beef may be wrapped in a paper thin sheet of lardo or accompanied by a rhubarb sauce, depending on the season. The Fritto della Locanda, their version of fritto misto, comes with chicken, rabbit and seasonal vegetables fried in the lightest batter possible. Everything is spectacular here but save room for dessert—those are too delicious to miss. La Locanda di Pietracupa has a lovely outdoor terrace for warm weather dining and has four rooms available for rent upstairs over the restaurant. Be sure and book in—it is very popular. We’ve met people from Florence who’ve driven down just to dine here. They also have several rooms for rent and offer cooking classes.

Many of our favorite restaurants feature outdoor terraces for warm weather dining. Here is Osteria Alla Piazza’s, which in summertime will be very busy for lunch and dinner.

There is a bend in the road between Panzano and San Donato where you’ll find a tiny hamlet called La Piazza. The hamlet has little more than a few stone houses and a terrific restaurant called Osteria Alla Piazza. This area favorite has several appealing small dining rooms and an expansive terrace for warm weather dining.

Tagliolini with fresh truffles is a seasonal favorite.

Osteria Alla Piazza changes their menu regularly to capture the freshest seasonal ingredients at their peak. During an autumn visit a few years back we feasted on the porcini—presented beforehand in a big basket for our appraisal, and served in every course we ordered. With great anticipation, we returned just a few days later to further satisfy our craving for these meaty mushrooms only to be told, “funghi finito”—no more, all gone, season’s over!

The elegantly prepared guinea fowl was superbly satisfying.

The beef tenderloin–filetto all’ aceto balsamico was a standout at Osteria Alla Piazza.

Save room for dessert. This panna cotta with strawberries was delicious.

Several dinners we enjoyed earlier this summer confirmed that the kitchen at Osteria Alla Piazza is still clearly committed to providing diners with the season’s best. Don’t miss the tantalizing tagliolini with truffles, the melt in your mouth filet of beef with cippolini (tiny onions), or the fritto misto, which someone in our party seemed to order everywhere we went. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and reservations are strongly suggested.

Passing through Lucarelli on the road from Panzano to Radda, you’ll find Osteria Le Panzanelle — a local favorite—and one of ours, too. It’s always busy and always good. Friends who live in nearby Radda in Chianti complained it was getting harder for area residents to get a table during the busy summer months, so reservations are a must.

Osteria La Panzanelle is a local favorite– and for good reason.

At Le Panzanelle you’ll find classic Tuscan cooking in a casual, lively setting. Begin with platter of local charcuterie, the Affettati Toscani—a nice big plate of prosciutto and delicious Tuscan salami. The involtini di melanzane, which is sliced eggplant rolled around cheese and baked with a tomato sauce and capers is also a tasty starter.

A heaping platter of prosciutto and local salami is a great way to start a meal at La Panzanelle.

The eggplant is hearty and big enough to share.

There are plenty of terrific pastas to choose from—you can’t go wrong here. For the main course they offer an enormous Bistecca alla Fiorentina for two, roasted rabbit with capers and anchovies, hearty cinghiale con olive (wild boar with olives), scottadito di angello (lamb chops) and other Tuscan specialties like peposo—a delicious slow cooked beef dish.

You’ll find delicious Tuscan classics at Le Panzanelle.

Simple scottodito–lamb chops with a translation meaning “burn your fingers.”

Hearty meat dishes are popular in most Tuscan restaurants. Le Panzanelle’s kitchen turns out a superb selection.

We’ve eaten here many times over the years and have tried most things on the menu. We’ve always been delighted with our meals and service is always friendly. It’s just a short 10 to 15 minute drive from Panzano and well worth it. Unlike many local restaurants, which close in November and reopen in late spring, Le Panzanelle is open nearly year round except for their vacation closing sometime in January/February.

For fabulous food and amazing views go to Ristoro di Lamole in the tiny hamlet of Lamole. You’ll drive up a beautiful winding road in the hills near Greve, passing orchards, vineyards and country homes, and when you reach the top—the friendly staff at Ristoro di Lamole will be waiting with a warm welcome.

Fillipo will be sure you’re well looked after at Ristoro di Lamole.

Be sure to reserve a table on the terrace so you can enjoy the stunning countryside views along with their innovative and sophisticated take on Tuscan cookery.

Enjoy the spectacular views from Ristoro di Lamole’s terrace.

House made burrata makes a great starter and the ravioli with pear and pecorino should not be missed.

The creamy burrata was served with locally sourced mushrooms.

Meat courses like the tender pork filet and rabbit are outstanding and the fritto misto was perfect. Everything we ate– from the antipasti to dessert– reflected a refined sensibility and was absolutely delicious.

Pasta with truffles was perfectly prepared at Ristoro di Lamole.

Pastas range from the delicate truffle enhanced, to hearty fare like this papparadelle with wild boar.

The filet of pork reflects the kitchen’s sophisticated take on classic Tuscan cuisine.

The Lamole Lamole wine from this area is just one of the more than 300 bottles on Ristoro di Lamole’s extensive wine list. Open for lunch and dinner.

Oltre il Gardino is a family-run restaurant right off Panzano’s main square, the Piazza Bucciarelli. We ate here for the first time on our recent trip and were very pleased with their solid, classic Tuscan cookery.

Ravioli with spinach, pecorino and sage was a hit.

The papparadelle with wild boar was a favorite, too.

The menu focuses on Italian comfort food and includes favorites like bruschetta al pomodoro, ribolita (tomato soup with bread), house made pastas like papparadelle with cinghiale (wild boar) and tagliatelle with pigeon.The ubiquitous Bistecca alla Fiorentina, peposa, and other typical dishes, were all well prepared.

Tender fried chicken is representative of the comfort food served at Oltre il Gardino.

The dining room in the converted farmhouse is cozy and well appointed. Every table was taken the night we were there, mostly by Italian diners, and everyone seemed to be having a good time. Even though it was a full house, service was attentive.

In the warm weather, the restaurant opens their summer bar—an expansive terrace with beautiful views overlooking the Conca del Ora, the shell of gold. Lunch, aperativi and dinner are served on the terrace.

La Cantinetta di Sassolini is off the Piazza Ricasoli at #2, in the old part of Panzano up the hill from the main square near the church of Santa Maria Assunta.

The dining room at La Cantinetta di Sassolino.

The menu centers on typical Tuscan dishes. Dinners can begin with assorted local cheeses like pecorino, a sheep’s milk cheese often served with jam, crespelle—delicate crepes stuffed with vegetables, which happened to be asparagus on this occasion, and one of our favorites, sformata, a light savory custard of seasonal vegetables.

A delicate savory sformata was sensational at Sassolino.

Next up are pastas, which are often sauced with game or meat here. Main courses like tagliata di manzo- sliced beefsteak, roasted meats, lamb chops, or chicken fricassee are served in ample portions.

It’s perfectly fine to share a pasta course. Just say, “Uno per due, per favore.”

Tagliata di manzo makes a great Sunday supper.

The dining room is lovely and boasts a large fireplace, which is a welcome addition in the colder months. The restaurant also has a terrace for outdoor dining in the summer. Note: Enter through the doors on Via Giovanni di Verrazano, though you can park in the piazza if there’s space.

Service is warm and welcoming at La Cantinetta Sassolino in Panzano.

We didn’t have a chance to return to Il Vescovino on our visit to Panzano this summer, but would recommend it based on earlier visits. The menu features Tuscan favorites; beginning with antipasti of Tuscan salami and prosciutto, chicken liver pate, olives and fennel. Pastas include local specialties like pici, which is a thick hand made spaghetti, and tagliatelle with funghi or papperadelle with a ragu. Grilled chicken, braised beef, Bistecca Fiorentina (from Dario Cecchini’s macelleria), porchetta and tagliata di manzo—the grilled, sliced steak popular in Italy, round out the menu. The restaurant has gorgeous views from inside and out on the terrace, which looks over the vineyards below. Il Vescovino is at via Ciampolo da Panzano, 9, 50022 Panzano, Greve in Chianti, Italy +393383648446.

Dinners at Dario Cecchini’s restaurants are multi course, family style affairs. Bring your appetite!

We mentioned Dario Cecchini, the uber popular butcher from Panzano with a worldwide following in another post. We would be remiss not to include his terrific restaurants here: Solociccia, which is Tuscan slang for “only meat” and features cuts from all parts of the cow; Solociccino, a mini version of Solociccia open for lunch only; Officina della Bistecca showcases sensational steaks including the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina; and Dario DOC—just for lunch from Monday through Saturday and the only Dario restaurant where reservations aren’t needed. All of the restaurants serve family style, multi course, prix fix meals, and while famous for top quality meat, vegetarian options are available.

“Tuscan butter” (center) and other delicious meat products on display at Antica Macelleria Cecchini in Panzano.

Panzano and environs are very popular travel destinations, particularly in the summertime. Avoid disappointment and make reservations. These are some of our favorite places to dine in and around Panzano. We’d love to hear about yours, so please leave comments.

Mangia bene!

Picture Perfect Panzano in Chianti

Panzano in Chianti is right in the heart of Chianti’s wine growing region and has been one of our favorite Tuscan getaways for many years. The small town is located midway between Florence and Siena, on the Chiantigiana/Highway 222, making it the perfect location from which to embark on day trips to these beautiful Tuscan cities. Other popular destinations like San Gimignano, Volterra and Pisa are also within easy driving distance, as are lovely nearby towns like Radda, Greve and Castellina in Chianti.

Steps lead down to reception at Villa Pecille in Panzano.

We have always rented from Sammie Daniels, founder of Stay Italia. In Panzano, we’ve stayed at Casa La Rota and Villa Pecille numerous times. Both are located on vineyard property owned by the family behind Fontodi Winery and are situated on the Conca del Ora, some of the most gorgeous countryside in Tuscany. Casa La Rota is surrounded by vineyards and is a five-minute drive into town. Villa Pecille overlooks the Conca del Ora and is a short walk into the village of Panzano.

La Rota is surrounded by Fontodi’s beautiful vineyards.

Casa La Rota.

All the apartments at La Rota and Villa Pecille are fully furnished and equipped with just about everything anyone could need to feel at home. Some have fireplaces. The two properties offer a range of accommodations suitable for two to eight people and both have swimming pools, ample outdoor areas for relaxing, and laundry facilities.

One of the terraces at Villa Pecille.

The pool at Villa Pecille.

Both La Rota and Villa Pecille have lots of lovely outdoor spaces to enjoy.

Sammie, who is American, is an expert on the area and has been here since 1985 when she opened a B & B in nearby Greve. She went on to remodel and manage the Vignamaggio Hotel, which was the setting for Much Ado About Nothing starring Kenneth Branaugh and Emma Thompson in 1993. In 1995, Sammie moved to Fontodi and opened Casa La Rota and has been there ever since. Sammie can assist guests with restaurant recommendations, wine tastings, even organizing dinners prepared in your villa.

Our spacious, fully equipped kitchen at Villa Pecille’s La Loggia.

La Loggia’s beautiful dining room is perfect for entertaining.

Sammie also has other properties in the area and several apartments in Florence.

The Piazza Bucciarelli is at the center of village life in Panzano in Chianti.

While not a large town, Panzano has its own market every Sunday morning in the main square— Piazza Bucciarelli—until about 1 p.m. The market is a great place to pick up fresh produce, fabulous cheeses, hot roast chicken, pasta and sauces, clothing, and household goods.

You can purchase Mr. Moreno’s superb selection of cheeses at Greve’s Saturday Market or in Panzano on Sunday mornings.

Clothing, accessories, shoes and more are available at Panzano’s Sunday Market.

The stores in town including the Coop (supermarket), pharmacy, and smaller shops near the main square and on Via Giovanni de Verrazzano, the road that leads up the hill to Santa Maria Assunta, are also open on Sundays but only until 1 p.m. There is also a much bigger weekly market in nearby Greve on Saturday mornings.

Fresh seasonal produce is at the heart of the market.

The town of Panzano is home to perhaps the most famous butcher in the world—the colorful, Dante- reciting Dario Cecchini. His Antica Macelleria Cecchini is technically a butcher shop but really so much more. Walk into his macelleria on a Sunday morning and it’s like there’s a party going on. He has a great spread of complimentary appetizers including his famous “Tuscan butter” (lardo), salamis, cheeses, olive oil, bread and wine.

Dario Cecchini may be the best known butcher in the world.

In addition to superb meats ready for your grill or oven, it is possible to purchase prepared dishes like porchetta—a delicious roast pork dish, polpetti—giant meatballs, and other local specialties for a picnic or easy meal at home. Service is friendly and English is spoken—Dario’s wife is a Californian. The ever-accommodating Dario is often willing to pose for photographs for international visitors who make the pilgrimage to Panzano to see him.

The very personable Dario Cecchini with our son this summer (top), and many years ago during one of our first holidays in Panzano.

Dario also has several restaurants: Solociccia, which is Tuscan slang for “only meat” and features cuts of beef from top to tail; Solociccino is a mini version of Solociccia and open for lunch only; Officina della Bistecca showcases sensational steaks including the famous Bistecca Fiorentina; and Dario DOC—which serves lunch from Monday through Saturday and is the only Dario restaurant where reservations are not required. All of the restaurants serve family style, multi course, prix fix meals, and while famous for top quality meat, vegetarian options are offered.

Complimentary meats, cheeses, bread, wine and Dario’s famous “Tuscan butter” are a tasty treat for visitors to the macelleria.

The butcher shop and restaurants draw people from around the globe-a lot of people. Dario’s Sunday lunches are especially popular so book in advance if you’d like to partake in these multi course extravaganzas. In the warm weather diners are served outside on long communal tables. We’ve met interesting people from all over the world at these delicious, leisurely meals. Dario also offers classes/workshops in butchery, which must be reserved in advance. All the details for the shop, restaurants and classes are here.

This sculpture welcomes visitors to Il Molino di Grace’s tasting room outside Panzano.

Wine tasting is a popular Tuscan past time and Panzano is a marvelous place to indulge in this pleasure. There are three wine bars or enoteca on or across from the main piazza—Enoteca Baldi at 25 Piazza Bucciarelli, Misticoteca at 13 Piazza Bucciarelli, and the newest, Il Cardo at 50 Piazza Bucciarelli. These are all about a three-minute walk (or less) from one another.

Enoteca Baldi is popular with locals and visitors alike. Bring your beverage outside and enjoy it on the Piazza if you like.

Enoteca Baldi and Il Cardo offer a selection of light foods to accompany your wine. Misticoteca, whose delightful owner Misty always has a warm welcome for visitors, has olive oils, specialty foods and gift items available for purchase. There almost always seems to be a crowd there.

Misticoteca was a popular place to watch the Giro d’Italia but this enoteca always draws a crowd.

We were fortunate to have our recent visit coincide with the Giro d’Italia—a major bicycle race—and its attendant 15 Giorni di Rosa or 15 Days of Pink—an exhaustive calendar of public events ranging from bicycle themed films, musical concerts, theatrical performances, free lectures, and of course, wine tastings.

The Bar Dante Alighieri in Radda is perfect for a coffee, light meal or a drink.

Shopkeepers in Radda were thinking pink for the Giro d’Italia.

The events were held in Radda, where the race would begin; Castellina in Chianti, San Donato, Panzano, through which the race passed; and Greve, where the race would end.

Greve welcomed racers and bicycling enthusiasts for the Giro d’Italia.

The day before the race, Unione Viticoltori de Panzano in Chianti presented Vino al Vino Miniatura, a smaller version of the wine tasting event the group hosts every September. All members of the organization had their wines available for tasting.

Panzano’s vintners presented Vino al Vino in Minaturo the day before the big race.

Wineries represented at that festive Saturday afternoon event included Fontodi, Il Molino di Grace, Casaloste, La Massa, Cennatoio, Fattoria la Quercia, Tenuta degli Dei and Castello dei Rampolla, among other local producers, 20 in total by my count. A souvenir glass and the opportunity to taste all of the delicious wines on offer cost just 10 Euro. There was live music in the Piazza Bucciarelli as well as local art on display to keep participants entertained while they sipped.

Great wines, music and a beautiful day brought people to Panzano’s Piazza Bucciarelli.

We visited Fontodi and Il Molino di Grace for wine tastings on this visit, and have toured and tasted at many others over the years. Here’s a list of local wineries, touring/tasting/direct sales availability, and other information.

A visit to Fontodi– one of the region’s premier wine producers.

The delightful and knowledgable Rina Lapini prepares to pour Fontodi’s flagship Flaccianello for visitors.

Contact wineries directly to make arrangements for private tours and wine tastings prior to arriving in Tuscany. Some are open to the public and some are not. Some offer complimentary tastings and some charge a fee.

Doors on Via Giovanni de Verrazzano, the main street off Piazza Bucciarelli leading up the hill to Santa Maria Assunta.

Panzano is also a fine place to have custom shoes, belts and hand bags made by local leather artisan Carlo Fagiani; visit a gallery that specializes in local artists’ work (we enjoyed a photography exhibition by Jeferson Silva Castellari and purchased one of his photographs on canvas); pick up antique or modern hardware; stop into a beautiful church– Santa Maria Assunta, which has a painting of the Annunciation attributed to Ghirlandaio and a 14^th century Madonna from Botticini; or just relax with a coffee at our favorite bar, Caffe la Curva (it’s called Bar of the Curve because that’s where it is), or stop by for gelato and apperitivi later in the day.

Order custom made shoes, belts and handbags at Carlo Fagiani in Panzano.

Caffe la Curva is a great place to start the day with a cappuccino and cornetto or end it with an apperitivo.

Panzano’s bucolic beauty beckons us back again and again.

However you chose to spend your time in this beautiful place, enjoy la dolce vita in Italia and perhaps you’ll understand why we’ve returned to Panzano in Chianti again and again.

Day Tripping– Lovely Lucca

The lively and lovely small city of Lucca is the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini and a wonderful place to spend one day or several. We’ve had a few day trips from our home base in Panzano in Chianti (www.stayitalia.com more on that in another post) and keep promising ourselves to spend more time here.

Lucca is a popular destination for visitors to Tuscany and easy to reach by car or train from Florence.

You cannot drive inside the walled city. You must park in one of the lots outside. Be sure to look for the pay station if you park in any area with blue lines. White lines mean free parking, but blue lines require payment. We were so excited to get a spot near the Porta Santa Maria that we didn’t even notice we were in a pay zone and came back to find a parking ticket on our windshield. Note—if you get a parking ticket, pay it while you are still in Italy at any Post Office. You can do so with cash or credit card and you’ll avoid paying your car rental company the fee they charge to provide the Italian government with your information plus you’ll avoid the hassle of paying via wire transfer/foreign currency once you return home.

Bicycling is a popular means of getting around in Lucca– inside the city walls and on top of them.

Once you get inside the walls, Porte San Pietro is the main gate–find an Info Point—Porta Santa Maria or Porta San Donato both have them. Pick up a tourism map which has several itineraries for exploring the town. Itineraries are in Italian, English and German and include opening times, closing days, and other important information for the major sites such as museums and churches.

Visitors and locals alike stroll or bicycle around Lucca’s famous medieval walls. Bicycle rentals are readily available.

Lots of people go to Lucca to “walk the wall” or ride bicycles around the city on the top of its ancient fortifications—Passaggiata delle Mura. The medieval walls built in 1544 replaced earlier Roman ones and extend 4,195 meters around the perimeter of Lucca. There are plenty of bicycle rental places just inside the walls, particularly near the Porta Santa Maria. It was a blustery, rainy day when we were there a few weeks ago, so we put this on our list for next time.

Now a place for picnics and soccer practice, the grassy area around the walls was once a moat.

If you have time for a delicious and leisurely lunch (or dinner), go to la Buca di Sant’Antonio, Via della Cervia 3, 55100 Lucca +39058355881 www.bucadisantantonio.com. The restaurant specializes in traditional cuisine of the area and the food is delicious.We’ve had several memorable meals here.You must reserve a table because the restaurant is quite popular.

Put Buca di Sant’ Antonio on your list of delightful restaurants in Lucca.

Maccheroni lucchesi al sugo di coniglio– housemade pasta with rabbit sauce– as delicious as it looks.

Puntarella alla Romana– a crisp, bitter salad topped with anchovies widely regarded as a Roman specialty.

Petto di faraona all’ uva moscato– guinea fowl in a wonderful moscato wine sauce with crispy pancetta. Yum!

The Church of St. Michele in Foro is one of Lucca’s “must visit” sites. It was built on the site of the Roman forum in the 11^th and 12^th centuries and is still the center of city life. The church has works by Luca della Robbia and Fillipino Lippi, among others.

This beautiful church is worth seeing both for its architecture and the wonderful art inside.

San Michele in Forno.

Piazza San Martino is home to Lucca’s duomo of the same name. Built in the Gothic Romanesque style, this beautiful church contains some important artworks by Ghirlandaio, Tintoretto and Fra Bartolomeo as well as the Holy Face of Lucca, a wooden Christ on a crucifix attributed to Nicodemus, as legend has it.

The anfiteatro is another of Lucca’s attractions. Built in the second century AD, the amphitheater’s former arena is now home to many shops and restaurants built into the ancient Roman walls, which are interesting to see from both inside and outside.

This Roman amphitheater once hosted games and gladiators. Now it’s a popular dining and shopping destination.

The Torre delle Ore, or clock tower, dates back to 1390. It is the tallest tower in town and has 207 wooden steps that ambitious visitors are welcome to climb. In its early days, the time was announced by bells alone but a clock face was added in 1752.

Hardy souls who climb the tower can see the hand-wound clock mechanism from the 18th century. It’s still working!

Lucca has a Puccini Museum, of course, which is at Corte San Lorenzo 9 (near the Piazza Citadella)– the composer’s birthplace. The museum features furnishings, artworks, pianos, musical scores and other personal belongings including letters and notes from and to Puccini.

Shopping seems to be a popular past time in Lucca and there is no shortage of brand names from which to choose.

Lucca has plenty of stores to keep shoppers happy.

This giant sewing machine is a clever advertisement for the Milanese menswear maker.

Lucca is perfectly suited to those who like to wander, and we do, but after awhile we needed a break and stopped in for a gelato at De’Coltelli, 10 Via San Paolina, www.decoltelli.it . Definitely seek this one out for their terrific artisanal gelato offered with complimentary panna (thick, sweetened whipped cream), which just adds to the deliciousness!

Panna is offered free as a thank you to gelato lovers here.

If it’s a drink or coffee you crave, pop in to The Dark Side—a cool little bar at 24 Via San Frediano at the corner of Via Angillara near the Church of San Frediano.

Come over to the Dark Side. You’ll be glad you did.

Step inside San Frediano for the beautiful baptismal font and works by Sienese sculptor Jacapo della Quercia, Matteo Civitali, and Amico Aspertini. The stunning facade features a golden mosiac depicting the Ascension.

Although we had come in for a quick coffee, we stayed for more than a half hour. The bartender was really friendly and he gave us tastes of some popular aperitivos along with descriptions of everything we sampled.

Our knowledgable and friendly bartender at the Dark Side.

The Dark Side’s complementary snacks, served with drinks, looked abundant and delicious, but we were off to Pisa.

Cordobar and Pauly Saal: Two of Berlin’s Creative Kitchens

Berlin’s dining scene is eclectic and exciting. It’s certainly far beyond schnitzel and the ubiquitous currywurst—though there are plenty of opportunities to indulge in these traditional dishes. From Katz Orange http://www.katzorange.com to the food hall at KaDeWe http://www.kadewe.de, Berlin has something for everyone’s palate. Two of our most memorable dining experiences were at Cordobar and Pauly Saal.

Try Cordobar for a fun night out.

We arrived at Cordobar just as the dining room was beginning to fill and the bar wasn’t yet three deep. Cordobar www.cordobar.net is a wine bar for the cool kids, for sure, though there were plenty of folks in their prime enjoying the wine and food, too.

The small dining room fills up fast, as does the bar area.

The small and lively space has an extensive wine list, a short list of small dishes for sharing and features one large plate each evening, also for sharing. The menu changes constantly but the website gives an indication of the sorts of dishes the kitchen prepares. While some things may sound strange—take a chance and order them anyway—you’ll be glad you did.

A peek at Cordobar’s extensive wine list.

When I see a glass of Salmon Billecart for less than 10 Euro a glass, I order it— a little bubbly is the perfect start to any evening. While I sipped my champagne, our knowledgeable and friendly waitress guided us through the extensive wine list, which focused on German and Austrian offerings, though it is not limited to producers from these countries. The list also included many natural/biodynamic wines that are so much in vogue in Europe right now. We chose to order by the glass so we could sample more wines and we were delighted with all of our selections—from Hirsch Gruner Veltliner to Zantho Muskat to Shelter Spatburgunder (pinot noir) to the Joschuari 2012 (gamay)—all new to us and perfect with the food we picked. Guests may also select from the bottles that line the walls.

We started with the fresh baked bread and butter—we spend a lot of time in Portland, so paying for bread and butter was not a new concept for us. Served in a paper bag, the warm bread was perfect.

The eggplant exceeded expectations.

Some of the dishes we chose sounded like odd combinations but were all absolutely wonderful and unexpected. We shared the eggplant with pineapple, pepper and saffron, and the grilled zucchini prepared with almond milk and miso to start.

The grilled zucchini had an Asian flair.

Next up was the main event—the featured large plate of the evening—lamb neck tacos. The lamb was perfectly prepared with Middle Eastern seasonings and presented as a large chunk of meat on a separate plate.

The Middle Eastern spices were a perfect foil for the rich and succulent lamb.

The “tacos” were cabbage leaves topped with a creamy sauce to which we added the tasty lamb. Different and delicious!

Cabbage leaves stood in for the more traditional tortillas.

The assembled lamb tacos– delightfully different.

Cordobar is extremely popular so if you’d like to be assured of a table in the small dining room, make a reservation. The bar area was packed all night and tables in the dining room were empty only long enough for staff to clean them. http://www.cordobar.net

The inviting dining room at Berlin’s Pauly Saal, abuzz with happy guests.

We were really excited to try the Michelin starred Pauly Saal http://www.paulysaal.com, another highly recommended Berlin restaurant on our list. Pauly Saal features a beautiful dining room, a terrace (closed during our November visit), a lovely bar area and an open kitchen with the very talented Chef Arne Anker at the helm. We had a chance to ask chef about the significance of the rocket above the open kitchen (in banner photo) but it turns out no political statement was intended, just a touch of whimsy that adds a fun focal point to the room.

The restaurant is open for lunch, cocktails and dinner daily. Three menus are offered at lunch—two, three or four courses. Dinner guests choose from two multi -course prix fix menus, either a four- course “little menu” or a six-course meal. An additional cheese course is also available for a surcharge with both options.

Pauly Saal’s extremely talented chef, Arne Anker.

We chose the four-course meal, which sounded deceptively modest: pike prepared with elderflower, oyster and radish; kale salad with mustard, squash and wheat; lamb loin with parsley root, eggplant and zucchini, and for dessert—blueberries with yogurt, white chocolate and rose. While each of these dishes may sound simple, they most assuredly were not. Each dish was truly a culinary creation designed to delight every one of the senses.

Perfect perch.

We’d eat our kale every day if it was prepared like this.

Gorgeous lamb with innovative accompaniments including the faux marrow bone.

Desert was almost too pretty to eat… almost.

Chocolate “stones” artfully mixed with the real thing.

The finale came after dessert — a small dish of chocolate “stone” truffles—presented with real stones.

There are more than 600 bottles on Pauly Saal’s wine list.

Pauly Saal’s wine list is quite extensive with more than 600 bottles on offer. We toured Europe in our by- the- glass selections, choosing two different wines for each course. A German Sauvignon Blanc from Weedenborn, Spanish Albarino by Picarana, a Klingenberg 2012 Spatburgunder and Chateau des Tours Cotes- du- Rhone were among the perfect pairings our extremely knowledgeable sommelier suggested.

Reservations are a must at Pauly Saal but if you aren’t able to secure a table, do stop in to the bar for a drink and a snack—the bar food looked pretty incredible, too. http://www.paulysaal.com

A walk to the restrooms was a reminder that Pauly Saal is located in a historic building constructed as a school for Jewish girls in 1930.

Placards in the hallway tell the story of 11 Auguststrasse.

Originally built as a Jewish girls’ school, these historic photos depict the students at play and at work in the 1930s.

The building was designed by prominent Jewish architect Alexander Beer. He later perished in the Theresienstadt Concentration Camp. On the walls one finds numerous photos depicting laughing children at play and studiously attending to their lessons. Placards detail the story of the building and students who once walked these halls.

The building was officially returned to the Jewish community in 2009 and is meant to honor the past and be a part of Berlin’s “creative future,” as the sign above indicates. In addition to Pauly Saal, Camera Work Contemporary Gallery, The Kennedys Museum, Michael Fuchs Gallery, and Mogg & Melzer Delicatessen have found a home at 11-13 Auguststrasse.

Berlin’s Little Istanbul and the Turkish Market

Berlin is home to the largest Turkish community outside of Turkey. In fact, more than 200,000 Berlin residents claim Turkish heritage making them the city’s largest ethnic minority. The Kreuzberg neighborhood in central Berlin, known as Little Istanbul, is home to many residents of Turkish ethnicity, including our server at the Ritz Carlton’s Brasserie Desbrosses. It was she who suggested we visit the popular Turkish market on Maybachuferstrasse.

Berlin’s Turkish Market is held Tuesdays and Fridays from 11 a.m. until 6:30 p.m.

Tuesday morning we jumped on the Number 2 Ubahn line at Potsdamerplatz, changed at Alexanderplatz (a major transit hub) to the Number 8 line and took it to Schonleinstrasse. We walked a few short blocks on Schinkestrasse heading East towards the Landwehrkanal and Maybachuferstrasse—home of Berlin’s largest outdoor Turkish market.

Kreuzberg in central Berlin is known as Little Istanbul for its large number of Turkish residents, the largest community outside of Turkey.

Fresh produce, spices and herbs are in abundance at the Turkish Market on Maybachuferstrasse.

Shoppers line up to take home these kabobs.

Vendors set up shop from 11 a.m. until 6:30 p.m. on Tuesdays and Fridays and draw quite a diverse crowd from young mothers pushing their strollers to older residents in traditional garb to tourists looking for a quick bite from one of the many food stalls.

The Turkish Market draws a diverse crowd.

Fresh baked breads are one reason people flock to the market.

Fish doesn’t get much fresher than this.

Merchants hawking fresh produce, baked goods, fresh fish, cheese, spices, flowers, clothing, toys, electronics, leather goods, table linens and a surprising amount of fabric and sewing notions line the approximate half-mile on Maybachuferstrasse.

Thread, buttons, ribbons, trim, and other sewing needs are all available at Berlin’s Turkish Market.

Stalls with brightly colored bolts of fabric for clothing and household needs line Maybachuferstrasse.

Young people lounge along the canal enjoying impromptu musical performances by buskers while neighbors shop and chat. It’s a very lively scene.

A cup of subtly spiced saklep, a hot beverage akin to a milky tea, is just the thing on a chilly day.

It was hard to resist these delicious looking and aromatic Anatolian delights.

We were very tempted by the delicious looking food on offer at the market but had reservations for lunch at Hasir, so we continued on.

Hasir is a popular Turkish restaurant with authentic cooking and a casual vibe.

Though we probably could have walked, we were really hungry so we got back on the Ubahn and took the Number 8 one stop to Kottbusser Tor. A quick walk northeast on Adalbertstrasse brought us to the heart of Kreuzberg’s Turkish neighborhood and Hasir, located at Adalbertstrasse 10.

The casual restaurant features traditional Turkish dishes with lamb and kabobs playing a major role on the menu. The service was efficient but friendly, and the meals were well priced. They also get quite a crowd here. Even past the typical lunch period, the restaurant was full.

Lamb, salad and roasted pepper with traditional bread made a delicious lunch at Hasir.

Entree portions are large enough to share.

After a delicious lunch we walked past several other eateries that were also part of the Hasir group, including a Hasir Express.

We stopped into a local bakery and treated ourselves to some just baked baklava—delicious!

We weren’t really hungry but the pastry looked so good we had to stop in.

On our way back to the Ubahn, we took a detour at the Istanbul Supermarket—an enormous Turkish grocery fronted by fresh produce stands.

From the fresh produce outside, to the bounty within, this supermarket has everything a well-stocked kitchen needs.

Tea time!

The market had everything from meats, cheeses, canned and packaged goods, to walls of teas and spices. I would have happily filled my shopping bag had we not been staying in a hotel on this trip. Perhaps next time!

Update– The Brasserie Desbrosses has been replaced by a new dining spot called POTS at the Ritz Carlton Berlin.

PDX Hits and Misses: Muscadine, Nonna, and Din Din

Portland has become one of our favorite food cities and we’ve been fortunate to visit frequently over the last few years. There are so many terrific restaurants–we have to force ourselves to branch out from our favorites and give other places a try. That was our goal on our most recent excursion to the Rose City.

Try Muscadine for delicious Southern cooking.

Muscadine

Southern food is enormously popular in Portland, especially when it is as well prepared as it is at Muscadine muscadine. We stopped by for lunch a scant 30 minutes before closing, yet were warmly welcomed. It was a beautiful, sunny day so we opted for one of the picnic benches outside the casual restaurant.

Choose one of Muscadine’s outdoor tables on a sunny day but get there early for the fried chicken!

Sadly, the fried chicken, which we had been anticipating hungrily, was sold out. We had been warned that that could happen to late arrivals. Never the less, there were ample appealing choices on the menu and the four of us settled on several portions of catfish, the salmon croquettes and the BBQ cup.

Muscadine’s tasty BBQ Cup…

The BBQ cup turned out to be a nice big biscuit filled with tender pulled pork in a tasty BBQ sauce topped with cheese and baked in the oven. So delicious, I soon forgot about the chicken.

…delicious, tender pulled pork in a fluffy biscuit.

The catfish had a crunchy, crispy crust and was moist and tender on the inside. It was served with a “come back” sauce much like a traditional home made tartar sauce with a kick—a perfect foil for the fish. The salmon croquettes were flavorful and included two ample croquettes

Crispy catfish, fried okra and crunchy cornbread.

The mains came with three side dishes and there were fourteen to choose from. The sides could also be ordered separately for $4 each. We sampled several–perfect corn bread; fried potatoes; tasty, crispy fried okra (I’m not usually a fan of okra but this was really good); a sweet and sour coleslaw—different but flavorful; extra crispy bacon; braised local squash; grits; and biscuits with excellent preserves and butter. The preserves were great with the cornbread, too, and our server was happy to bring more.

Salmon croquettes, grits, squash and fried okra.

Service was attentive and gracious and though we probably overstayed our welcome, were never rushed– in fact our waitress kept our coffee cups filled right up to the time when we finally pushed ourselves away from the table. We’ll be back for sure.

Nonna

DOC’s casual sister restaurant Nonna.

We were excited to try this casual offering from the popular and well-regarded DOC next door. Nonna nonnapdx has a casual vibe with a large bar area and simple, wooden tables. There is another equally casual dining room just beyond the bar.

Nonna has a large, welcoming bar.

Nonna also has a cozy and charming patio in the back, hung with clothes lines and a few items of clothing that were certainly not going to dry on the rainy Friday evening we dined there. It would be a wonderful place to gather with friends and enjoy some good Italian cooking and a beverage on a pleasant Portland evening.

A small, charming patio would be a great gathering spot in nice weather.

Like many Portland restaurants, Nonna’s menu is locally focused and changes often. We ordered four appetizers to share between the four of us, as suggested by our server. We chose the octopus, polenta, golden beets, and spaghetti with chilies and breadcrumbs. Everything was nicely prepared and presented.

Charred octopus reminded us of Sicily.

The octopus was tender and delicious with a nice char and served with a lemony aioli, olives, peppers and potatoes–just like the octopus we had enjoyed many times in Sicily. This was my favorite of the starters we chose.

Polenta with pesto.

The fried polenta with pesto was tasty, though not terribly exciting. The roasted beets on the other hand were sublime – a beautiful, big bowl of golden beets with walnuts, chevre, mache, with tasty tarragon vinaigrette.

Golden beets received a generous topping of chevre and hazelnuts.

The pasta dish was small but perfect for sharing. The chilies had a nice zip and the breadcrumbs added welcome texture. We did feel that three appetizers would have been sufficient since we had each ordered an entree as well.

Piquant peppers and toasted breadcrumbs made this spaghetti dish special.

We felt dinner was off to a great start and were all happily enjoying our shared plates when halfway through the appetizers, our entrees arrived. We were surprised, especially since the room is so small that anyone who had even glanced at our table could see we were nowhere near ready for our next course. We cannot account for the lack of communication with the kitchen on this score.

With no place on our small table to put them, the server pulled up a smaller table and rather unceremoniously plopped the four main plates down– we commented that we were not ready for the entrees and were in no rush. Our server replied we could eat the mains when we were ready and walked away. We quickly dispatched the appetizers so our main courses wouldn’t be ice cold when we began.

Perfectly prepared halibut was a hit.

There were three main courses or “secondi” to pick from and we selected all of them. Two of us chose the halibut, which was served with wonderful caramelized fennel wedges and grapefruit segments– a great compliment to the fish in both flavor and texture. The halibut was crispy on the top and perfectly tender and moist inside– cooked just right.

Another in our party had the pork chop with the Romesco sauce served with nice bitter broccoli rabe and roasted potatoes — a large plate with a nicely done chop. We shared a bottle of 2014 Domaine de la Fouquettee —a nice Rosé that worked well with everyone’s meal. Two in our party enjoyed local craft beers as well.

The pork chop was perfect.

Our other dining companion chose the enormous burger served with crispy fries and topped with cherry tomatoes, provolone, aioli, and mixed greens– a step up from the usual accompaniments. He pronounced it the perfect burger.

Non-traditional toppings made the burger a standout.

I have to think our dining experience would have been greatly enhanced had the food service been better timed. Several online reviews alluded to service issues. If they can work out this problem, we’d happily return for the delicious and deftly prepared food. In the meantime, we’re adding DOC DOCpdx to our list for next time.

DOC looks inviting.

Din Din

Din Din’s “Supper Party” is held one weekend each month.

We had wanted to try Din Din dindinportland for several years– ever since we had gone in search of brunch one weekend only to find the place closed. Note to self–always call first. We were delighted to secure a reservation for our party of four for their Saturday night Din Din “Super Party”. One weekend each month the restaurant hosts small groups– about 12 to 14 guests at a time, for a fixed price menu, wines included. Dinner begins at 7:30 p.m.

A lovely Rosé got things off to a great start.

We were greeted in the bar area by our hostess, Courtney, who provided us all with a nice glass of Schloss Gobelsburg Cistercien Rosé and a passed appetizer of roasted Persian Star garlic, Silver Queen corn, and Fiore Sardo on pain d’épices. Ours was a festive and friendly group and several of the guests had dined at Din Din before. They raved about their experiences and we were all eagerly anticipating a splendid evening ahead.

Our group was lively and friendly.

Everyone introduced him or herself and we chatted amiably until Courtney directed us to the communal table, set with vintage silver and china, in the center of the casual but charming room.

A beautiful buttercup squash soup started our meal.

Our first course was a delicious buttercup squash soup garnished with a Costata Romanesco zucchini salad. The soup was accompanied by a glass of Chateau d’ Orschwaihr Pinot Gris ’13. We were surprised that the soup was served at room temperature but still enjoyed it very much.

The wine and conversation flowed nicely but the meal sadly did not. There was quite a long gap between the soup and the next course and it became clear that Courtney had to prepare, plate and serve the food singlehandedly. Our fellow guests who had dined at Din Din on other occasions were very surprised that she had no assistance and commented that there were usually two or three people working together on the meal.

Salmon with a Chartreuse sauce was next.

Next up was a lovely  salmon with a Chartreuse romaine sauce and baby carrots, served with a glass of Domaine de Juchepie Anjou sec “Les Monts” ’11. The salmon dish was also served at room temperature, bordering on cold, and it was pretty evident it should not have been. I can imagine that had it been the proper temperature, it would have been delicious. Nonetheless, the conversation continued to be lively, more wine was poured and a helpful guest made sure everyone’s water glasses stayed full.

The meat course would have been delicious had it been hot.

After another lengthy lull, the meat course was served– to half the guests. Finally, we all had our plates– flank steak with a sauce of Melrose pepper Tulsi basil cream, cucumbers and brussel sprouts with lime. I believe this would have been a wonderful dish had it been heated, but the entire entree was cold. The vegetables were still tasty though cold but the meat and sauce suffered badly. This was accompanied by a very good glass of  Domaine de la Bonne Tonne “Les Charmes” Morgon ’13. At this point our fellow guests were assuring us that ours was not the typical experience at Din Din and counseling us to give it another try.

Conversation and wine flowed freely but the meal’s pacing was problematic.

Next up was a crisp salad of simply dressed greens. While we ate our salads, I noticed Courtney in the kitchen quickly slicing fruit. Finally, dessert was served– thinly sliced Seckel pear with Cointreau caramel  and gruyère cheese. Personally, I was disappointed. The sparkling rose—a Foss Marai “RooS” brut rosé NV served with the dessert compensated somewhat– it was delicious and an excellent finish to an uneven and puzzling dining experience.

By the time we had dessert and the final glass of wine it was nearly midnight and our fellow diners began requesting their checks. The party was clearly over and it seemed no one wanted to be the last to leave.

I followed up with Courtney several days after our meal and learned that her colleague, who usually assists in the kitchen, had been taken seriously ill and so she was left to create the Din Din experience alone. With this in mind we’ll give it another try sometime.

San Francisco’s Stellar State Bird Provisions

There is a framed print in one of the bathrooms at State Bird Provisions that asks, “Where’s the f&#@ing party?” Well folks, it’s right here! Dinner at State Bird http://www.statebirdsf.com is exuberant and exciting. It’s a lot like being at a super fun, fairly exclusive dinner party where you might not know many of the other guests but you’ll have a great time anyway.

Everyone seems so happy at State Bird– it’s like going to a great dinner party.

There’s been nothing but buzz around this place since it opened on New Year’s Eve in 2011 and it’s still one of the toughest tables to get in San Francisco. The restaurant does take walk -ins and keeps a nightly wait list at the hostess stand, but if you are committed to eating here, you need to have a reservation. Online reservations open at midnight PST, 60 days in advance, and fill up promptly. Getting a booking is kind of like winning the lottery — your chances don’t improve even if you’ve dined there before. Is it worth it? Yes!

Some seats at the chef’s counter are reserved for walk-in guests. These were filled moments after the photo was taken.

State Bird’s cuisine is deliciously creative and the concept is American dim sum. Each evening enthusiastic servers with carts and trays make their way through the casual dining room with a rotating selection of a dozen or more tantalizing treats. These “provisions” are innovative small dishes meant for sharing, like everything available at State Bird. This is a great place to come with friends—more people mean more dishes to try. Leave anyone who isn’t good at sharing at home.

The restaurant has a casual, buzzy vibe, two James Beard Foundation Awards and a Michelin star.

Word of advice—pace yourself! It all looks so good that you’ll be tempted to take one of everything right away. Before you know it you’ll have seven different dishes on your table and are just too full for that extraordinary one you didn’t even know you wanted– until it passed by. Sad face.

Nectarines with whipped crescenza & pink peppercorns captured the best flavors of late summer.

Our recommendation—take a look at what’s available, choose a dish or two at a time, savor and repeat until you can’t eat another bite. In our case, two of us had eight of the passed dishes, the small portion of the state bird (more on that later) and half portions of dessert. Service is very attentive and no one is offended if you say no or ask to have a dish brought around again later—they do that as a matter of course.

Servers are helpful and happy to explain preparations. Here’s Ben with a cart of tasty dishes.

There are a few items that appear regularly, like the sensational smoked trout-avocado chip and dip—a layered mousse-like trout and creamy avocado served with crispy house made chips, and the savory guinea hen dumpling with aromatic broth. We’d enjoyed both on a previous visit but ordered them again because they were just so good.

Smoked trout- avocado ‘chip & dip’– so good we ordered it twice.

Because the focus is on seasonal and local fare, dishes change regularly. On our recent visit the “provisions” included hog island oyster with kohlrabi kraut and sesame; guanciale chawanmushi; duck liver mousse with almond biscuit; summer squash with roasted nardello and smoked almonds; shishitos with cumin- goat cheese fondue; sweet corn polenta ‘elote’; pork belly pluot salad; heirloom tomato bay shrimp ‘louie’ ; chanterelle, ham and fregola summer salad; charred octopus with kampot peppercorn and tomato sauce; air dried beef with red chili vinaigrette; and wild king salmon tartare with cucumbers and kosho aioli.

Duck liver mousse with almond biscuits was decadent and delicious.

Knowledgeable wait staff happily answer questions and explain preparations. Prices are clearly marked on each dish and range from $3 to $14 (for the large portion of pork belly pluot salad). Most are $5 and $6. Servers mark your menu each time you choose something, just like in a typical dim sum restaurant.

This air dried beef with chilis was even tastier than it looked. The crispy rice was a wonderful addition.

The shishito peppers with cumin-goat cheese fondue was a great combination of flavors and textures.

There is a small printed menu that features the actual state bird, which happens to be California valley quail, served in two portion sizes($9/$18) and accompanied by seasonal “provisions.” It is delicious—crispy and succulent and you really should order it.

The “must have” state bird for whom the restaurant is named.

Other “commandables,” as the plates on the printed menu are called, included red trout with toasted hazelnut-mandarin-garum vinaigrette; fresh Hawaiian heart of palm salad, with tahini chili oil; ‘kung pao’ beef tongue and sweetbreads with bacon, nuts and seeds; and Don Watson’s lamb with squid, shishito peppers and dates. These range from $14 to $22 and are good- sized servings.

Sweet summer corn polenta ‘elote’ takes simple polenta to a level of luxury.

The printed menu also lists a variety of interesting sounding toasts and pancakes. There is heirloom tomato Cabot cheddar whole-grain pancake, pickled local anchovy-tomato toast and smoked chicken walnut ‘Waldorf’ toast, among others, at prices ranging from $3 to $5 each. We have not sampled the toasts—very of the moment– or the pancakes, but perhaps next time.

Wait staff mark your orders just like in a typical dim sum restaurant.

We saved room for dessert on our recent visit and we’re happy we did. We shared half orders of a wonderfully refreshing suncrest peach granite with tapioca, smoky tea gelee, Asian pear and mint; a surprising chevre ‘ice cream’ sandwich with sesame macaron and roasted strawberries; and a dense, moist apple pudding cake with cocoa nib cream and blackberries. We also sampled a shot of the ‘world peace’ peanut muscavado milk ($2). Desserts are $9 each and while the menu doesn’t indicate this, they are happy to give you half servings at half the price, on request.

Choosing half orders of dessert allowed us to satiate our sweet tooth.

The wine list has interesting offerings from U.S. producers in California, Oregon, New York and even Utah. The Utah selection was a 2014 Arneis/Dolcetto/Barbera blend from Fox Hill Vineyard that was served cold—we just had to try it. Austria, Germany, France, Portugal, Spain, Italy (including Sicily), and Crete are all represented on the list. Diners can choose from a large number of by the glass options or the bottle. Though it isn’t printed, half glasses are also available. This latter option makes for a really fun evening of wine pairing with all of those delicious small dishes.

By selecting half glasses of wine, we could sample widely and not overindulge.

We sampled a great selection of half glasses to compliment our meal. We began with a palate pleasing sparkling Reisling Sekt from the Mosel region of Germany and a Portugese Naga/Bical “metodo tradicional rose” that was super dry and nearly red. After consulting with wait staff we worked our way through the list with a food-friendly 2013 Gruner Veltliner from Wagram, Austria; a crisp California Riesling from J. Brix in Santa Barbara; flinty 2012 Falanghina from Mustilli in Campania, Italy; a well-balanced 2014 Marsanne from the Rhone Valley’s Yves Cuilleron; a surprisingly bone- dry 2014 White Zinfandel from Napa Valley’s Turley (I know, but it was from Turley–we couldn’t pass it up); an earthy 2011 Liatiko from Crete; and a big, juicy 2009 Zweigelt from Austria’s Johnanneshof Reinish. Our last half glass was a lovely, floral Gamay from Jean-Paul Brun– the perfect ending to a delightful evening.

These hard working gentlemen were among those responsible for a stellar meal and a marvelous evening.

We’re looking forward to our next meal at State Bird and will also try to get a place at the table at The Progress— husband and wife chefs Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski ’s new restaurant next door. Diners “choose their own family-style adventure” by selecting six dishes (from a list of 17 plus three desserts on a recent menu) for $65. We’d love to hear from anyone who has already been to The Progress, and as always, we welcome comments and recommendations.

Exploring San Francisco’s Mission District

It’s easy to spend your entire day just wandering around the Mission District. There’s someplace inviting to eat and drink every few feet, interesting shops, galleries, independent bookstores (there are still a few left) and of course, the Mission Dolores, for which the area is named.

One of many inviting places to stop for a bite in the Mission District.

Our itinerary included some of all of the above. First, lunch at the ever-popular Pizzeria Delfina. We’ve enjoyed many delicious dinners at Delfina www.delfinasf.com, a lively, casual Italian restaurant that many say marked the beginning of the Mission District’s popularity as a dining destination back in 1998 when Craig and Annie Stoll first opened their doors. Today, we’re looking for lunch, and Delfina serves dinner only, so it’s Pizzeria Delfina (right next door) for lunch.

The original Pizzeria Delfina is right next door to the restaurant and has sidewalk tables.

With Delfina owner Craig Stoll.

There is almost always a lengthy line of hungry folks waiting for the pie at Pizzeria Delfina www.pizzeriadelfina.com. No reservations are accepted but there is a chalkboard right inside the small space– write your name and the number in your party then stand on line and wait your turn. Watch the pizzaoli as you wait—it’ll be your turn soon enough!

Lunchtime at Pizzaria Delfina.

The menu has a nice variety of pizzas with perfect thin and crunchy crusts (puffy on the edges—just like I like it), salads, antipasti and some desserts. There is limited seating inside but there are also some tables on the sidewalk. Wine and beer are available along with soft drinks. Service is friendly and pizzas are delivered to your table prontissimo.

Everything on the simple menu is fresh and delicious.

Perfect pizza– puffy, crunchy crust and best quality toppings.

If pizza is not what you’re after, Tartine www.tartinebakery.com is right on the corner. When we were loitering around the closed Pizzaria Delfina one sad Monday—the only day they are not open, owner Craig Stoll directed us to Tartine— one of his neighborhood favorites.

Crowds queue for Tartine’s pastries, breads and hot pressed sandwiches.

Diners in the back of the room can watch the bakers at work.

Superb sandwiches, salads, light meals and beautiful pastries are available in this small storefront, which also almost always has a line, especially on the weekends. If you grab a table near the back, you can watch the bakers at work and enjoy the heady aroma of baking bread.

If you haven’t satisfied your sweet tooth, walk a few blocks over to Valencia St. for dessert and learn how chocolate is made at Dandelion Small- Batch Chocolate.This café and factory has organized tours (book online at www.dandelionchocolate.com) but even if you haven’t been able to reserve a formal tour, it’s easy to see the chocolate makers at work in the open kitchen area and they are happy to answer questions.

Reserve a tour of Dandelion’s chocolate making facility online.

The current roaster can handle five kilos of cacao beans. The new facility will have a 50 kilo roaster.

We couldn’t join a tour but Lisa Vega, executive pastry chef, was kind enough to show us around and explain the chocolate making process from bean procurement (high quality, single source beans from numerous countries including Ecuador, Madagascar, Belize, and Venezuela), to sorting, roasting, winnowing, melanging, blocking, tempering, and finally, wrapping the bars for sale.

Executive Pastry Chef Lisa Vega was happy to show us around.

Dandelion’s chocolate makers create small batch chocolates everyday.

Their chocolates are made from two ingredients only– cacao and sugar.

After you’ve satisfied your curiosity, sample the wares while you wait to place your order for a delicious cocoa or coffee drink and something sweet to eat. There are plenty of tempting items both to enjoy at the café and to take home.

It isn’t easy to choose!

Complimentary samples are available of most of the single source chocolates.

Dandelion Chocolate also has a small kiosk in the Ferry Building, which sells their tasty products, books and other chocolate-related merchandise. The Ferry Building location is at the same end of the building as Miette Patisserie www.miette.com and Humphrey Slocombe Ice Cream www.humphreyslocombe.com— just across the way from Slanted Door’s take away place, Out the Door www.outthedoors.com.

Soon chocolately drinks like these will also be available at the Ferry Building.

Dandelion has plans for a cocoa café there as well, so you can enjoy their delicious drinks even if you don’t make it to the Mission.

Say cheese– at Mission Cheese.

If it’s cheesy goodness you’re craving, check out Mission Cheese www.missioncheese.net. This little shop is across from the “parklet” on Valencia and just two doors down from Dandelion Chocolate. Sample and purchase a wide variety of cheeses both domestic and imported, or make a meal of it with their gooey mac n’ cheese, a pressed cheese sandwich, charcuterie or a cheese flight. They also offer a fine selection of wine, beer and ciders, plus coffee, teas and dessert.

There’s plenty to see and do in the Mission.

Need pirate supplies? Pop into 826 Valencia St. in the Mission www.826valencia.org It’s the only “independent pirate supply store” in San Francisco.

Stop in to 826 for pirate supplies and to support young writers’ programming.

There you’ll find an assortment of pirate paraphernalia including “Scurvy Be Gone,” pirate flags, booty chests, tattoo removers (metal brushes aka “the low cost option”), looking glasses, maps, eye patches, tee shirts, books and much, much more.

Everyday is “Talk like a Pirate Day.”

In the back room, you’ll see what makes this space so important—it’s the free writing/tutoring lab author and 826 Valencia co-founder Dave Eggers began in the storefront in 2002, along with educator Ninive Calegari.

The writing/tutoring lab is the heart of 826 Valencia.

826 Valencia is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to supporting underserved Bay Area students ages six to 18 by working with them to develop their writing skills. According to the 826 Valencia’s website, the group serves more than 6,000 students annually thanks to their 1,700 Bay Area volunteers. They also have an outreach program for teachers. Books by the young authors, including numerous anthologies, are available for sale, as are quarterly subscriptions to the young writers’ work. For more information on in-store events, volunteer and donation opportunities, and the writing programs, visit www.826valencia.org. Proceeds from all sales in the pirate shop support the free writing programs, so stop by and pick up a few treasures, matey.

Support independent booksellers.

Borderlands Bookstore www.borderlands-books.com is also on Valencia and home to new and used sci-fi, mystery, horror and fantasy titles. Independent bookstores like these are getting increasingly hard to find, and in fact, Borderlands was in danger of closing earlier this year due to the dramatic increase in minimum wage now required by the state of California. A community meeting and the clever idea to sell 300 $100 sponsorships have kept the doors open so far.

Grab a cup of coffee with your sci-fi.

Borderlands has special events including author readings and signings and a nice café right next door, too. I always like to support independent booksellers and encourage everyone else to do so. If you’re in the neighbor and your shelves are looking a little empty, stop in and buy a book or two.

The Mission is named for the beautiful Mission Dolores.

Finally, a visit to the actual Mission www.missiondolores.org, the oldest intact building in San Francisco. As we mentioned earlier, the Mission District takes its name from the Mission San Francisco de Asis established by Father Junipero Serra in 1776, but also commonly called Mission Dolores because of a nearby creek, Arroyo de los Dolores or “Creek of Sorrows.”

The gorgeous painted wooden ceiling is one of the highlights at Mission Dolores.

If the Mission Dolores seems familiar, it’s probably because you’ve seen it in the movies. Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo with Kim Novak and Jimmy Stewart was filmed here in 1957. Visitors are welcome, and for a small fee, can tour the church with it’s brightly painted wooden ceiling and alter piece, outbuildings and gardens, as well as the small cemetery, which was the final resting place of missionaries and parishioners alike.

Visit the tranquil gardens.

There are antique vestments, a diorama depicting how the mission functioned, paintings and Native American artifacts on display. There is also a small gift shop with handicrafts, devotional candles, rosary beads, prayer cards and Alfred Hitchcock bobble heads—really!

A tribute to “Vertigo.”

Take a few hours, an afternoon, or the whole day, and explore this fascinating area of San Francisco. Buy some books. Enjoy a meal or a drink. Pick up some chocolate, cheese or even a bobble head while you’re there!

Carneros: Art, Bubbles and Fine Dining

This lovely path leads to the di Rosa Collection– one of the most extensive contemporary art collections in Northern California.

If you’re ready for a break from wine tasting and need to get off the well-trodden and always busy wine road that is Route 29, head over to the tranquil Carneros District and stop in at the di Rosa Collection. This lovely property has been open to the public since 2000, when it was incorporated as a nonprofit public trust.

The Gatehouse Gallery features rotating exhibitions of contemporary art.

Rene and Veronica di Rosa’s extensive contemporary art collection includes some 2,000 works by 800 artists including Richard Shaw, Bruce Nauman, Larry Sultan, John Buck, Allan Rath, Paul Kos, Viola Frey and many others and is considered to be one of the most important collections in Northern California.

Book a tour to see the entire collection both inside the buildings and around the gorgeous grounds.

The works are displayed in three buildings and throughout the property. The modern Gatehouse Gallery is home to rotating exhibitions of modern paintings, sculpture, multi-media and interactive pieces.

A recent exhibition in the Gatehouse Gallery.

An interactive piece lets visitors…

…blow giant smoke rings!

Tongue-In-Cheek, a recent exhibition at Gatehouse.

Gallery admission allows access only to the current exhibition on view in the Gatehouse and is self-guided. To experience the entire collection, set aside 1-1/2 to two hours for the superb guided tour of the outbuildings, including the chapel, and the exquisite grounds. It is best to book the guided tour in advance to avoid disappointment.

Take a tour and experience the art outdoors.

You’ll likely see peacocks racing through the tall grass around many of the outdoor sculptures including, “Field Hands.” The catalog of the permanent collection, Local Color, makes a great souvenir or a gift for an art-loving friend. Click here for updated information.

Outside art.

Domaine Carneros is right across the road from di Rosa.

After your tour of the di Rosa Collection, go across the street to the elegant Domaine Carneros—it’s home to Tattinger’s California sparkling wines. Reservations are required.

Domaine Carneros– Taittinger’s California Sparkling Wine.

There are numerous options for tasting from flights to single glasses. Take your glass out onto the beautiful terrace and enjoy the spectacular view across the vineyards of the Carneros District.

Enjoy a drink in this pleasant lounge area at Farm.

One of my favorite dining destinations is in the Carneros, just a short distance away—Farm at the Carneros Inn. We have celebrated many memorable meals here and the last, which happened to be an anniversary, was no exception. Start with your libation of choice and relax outside on the comfy couches that surround the open fire. Depending on the hour, you’re likely to see children running happily around the lawn—much better here than in the dining room!

The dining room is casual but elegant.

The menu at Farm changes often to reflect the restaurant’s commitment to local, seasonal and sustainable produce, fish and meat. The cuisine is contemporary Californian and the wine list draws almost entirely from California producers.

The wine list focuses on Californian bottlings. Our somm gave us terrific recommendations like this Philip Staley 2012 Viognier.

Service is impeccable and the room is spare yet elegant. The restaurant is open daily for dinner only and reservations are a must.

A complimentary amuse bouche began our dining adventure.

Even a chicken breast is elevated to new culinary heights at Farm.

The halibut was sublime.

A chocolate lover’s dream dessert.

A lovely finish to a beautiful meal.

The hotel also has a casual option called Boon Fly, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations are only available at dinner. This is great place to stop if you want a quick and tasty lunch and are in the mood for a burger, salad or sandwich.

Mix it up a bit and add Carneros to your itinerary. You’ll be glad you did!

Note– I have updated this post to reflect the need for reservations during the current coronavirus crisis, though other elements of your visit may also change. Please check with individual wineries, restaurants and galleries for details and requirements.

Downtown Napa Dining: Atlas Social + Torc + 1313 Main + Oenotri + Cadet

There are few vacations I find more relaxing than a trip to the Napa Valley. There are always new restaurants to try, old favorites to revisit, and of course wonderful wines to enjoy. The Napa Valley also offers plenty of shopping, spa experiences and interesting art. But first, let’s eat.

Atlas Social is a fun, new downtown venue.

Downtown Napa has come a long way in recent years and offers a wide range of delicious dining destinations that will fit most tastes and budgets. We started our culinary adventures with dinner at Atlas Social www.atlassocialnapa.com, which is operated by the same people who own Azzurro Pizzeria and Enoteca and the Norman Rose Tavern, both in downtown Napa.

Inside Atlas Social.

Atlas Social, which opened in January 2015, has a casual vibe and a big, open dining room and bar area. The menu will appeal to locavores and fans of the farm to fork concept. The dishes, which range from snacks like their addictive Herb Leaf Fries with Meyer Lemon aioli ($6) to platters for a group, like the Garlic and Chili Roasted Whole Fish ($35), Spice Highway Chicken ($19/$35) and Grilled Hanger Steak ($36), are meant for sharing. They have an interesting and well-priced wine list that is all Californian except for a sparkling offering from France. Craft brew lovers won’t go thirsty either. There are beers on tap from California and Oregon, large format beer offerings from the West Coast, and ciders and a few other imported beers in cans.

Crunchy, crispy herb leaf fries with an addictive Meyer Lemon aioli.

We happily worked our way through the seasonally appropriate menu, sampling from all the categories—Farm, Sea, and Ranch plus those amazing fries. We ate the delicious shaved snap pea salad ($8), “angry” shrimp (I didn’t find them all that spicy) with basil, chilies and orange ($14), Masala chicken skewers ($10) and finished with the duck confit ($13), which was a very generous portion.

The shaved snap pea, marcona almond, sieved egg + citrus vinaigrette salad was my favorite dish. Spectacular!

Masala spiced chicken skewers with eggplant-pepper Muhammara + pine nut syrup were nicely seasoned.

Duck confit with frisee, baby spinach, cherries and a pancetta vinaigrette was a hearty and very satisfying dish.

Aside from ordering more food than we should have, we were completely happy with our meal and would definitely return. Check their website www.atlassocialnapa.com for specials, winemaker diners, and other events and pop by for their “Social Experiment” AKA Happy Hour which runs daily from 3 to 6 p.m.

Our next delicious downtown dinner was at TORC www.torcnapa.com . We’ve dined here before and were looking forward to returning.

TORC always seems to draw a crowd.

We’re glad we did. We got a great window table and started our evening with deviled eggs with pickled onions and bacon ($5). We’ve noticed deviled eggs popping up on many Northern Californian menus and we’re happy to sample them.

Deviled eggs seem to be the dish du jour, appearing on many menus lately. These were really tasty.

TORC’s menu focuses primarily on locally raised, sustainable food and the menu changes frequently to ensure that diners are enjoying what’s fresh and available. After the deviled eggs, we shared a Jamon Iberico, romaine, and stone fruit salad ($15)—light and refreshing and the ham brought us back to Spain for at least a short time.

Crisp romaine, succulent Jambon Iberico and stone fruits made a great sharable salad.

We had a gorgeous salmon with fresh peas, radishes and favas and the Alaskan halibut with morels, peas and shaved crispy artichoke ($29). Both dishes were sublime.

This salmon dish captured all the flavors of early summer.

Perfectly prepared halibut with morels and sugar peas.

A 2013 Keplinger Rose (Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah) was a fine accompaniment for the meal.

This Keplinger rose was just the right match for the meal.

We had excellent service and a delightful evening and left looking forward to another marvelous meal at TORC www.torcnapa.com.

1313 Main www.1313main.com was new for us and definitely deserves a return visit. What began as a wine bar is now a fantastic full- fledged restaurant. Even though there were plenty of people enjoying their meals on the Saturday night that we dined, the room was quiet enough for conversation and quite comfortable for a leisurely meal.

1313 Main should be on your list of downtown Napa dinner spots.

After a complimentary amuse bouche, we began our meal in earnest with a flatbread “carta musica” topped with chevre, lettuces, radishes, raspberries and nasturtiums ($11).

This flatbread was so beautifully presented, it looked almost too good to eat.

Champagne by Henri Goutorbe recommended by somm Bryan, made a festive and well-matched accompaniment.

Sommelier Bryan helped navigate the extensive wine list at 1313 Main.

Next up was a green garlic risotto with green peas, escargot and topped with crunchy garlic breadcrumbs ($17). I rarely order risotto out since I prepare it at home often, but this was delicious.

The risotto was a perfectly delicious.

Bacon-wrapped rabbit loin on a bed of polenta and salsa verde was an excellent choice.

The sturgeon was wrapped in “brick dough” and served with beautiful seasonal vegetables.

We chose a Knez Winery’s K—and Anderson Valley Pinot Noir to accompany our main courses, Sonoma Rabbit ($28) and Sturgeon in Brick Dough ($25). The Day Boat Scallops ($28) and Lamb Saddle ($29) we tempting, too, but will have to wait for the next time.

For once, we saved room for dessert—pound cake churros served with a Valrhona drinking chocolate ($8). A perfect finale to a terrific meal.

Save room for dessert!

1313 Main also offers a seven course Chef’s tasting Menu from amuse bouche to mignardises for $70 per person with an additional $55 for wine pairings.

Complimentary mignardise.

The wine list is very well thought out and will fit most tastes and budgets. Offerings are broad, global and interesting with bottles ranging from a 2010 Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir from Fiddlehead Cellars for $39 to a 2008 Opus One Red Blend from Napa Valley for $1020. Both small and large format bottles are offered including a number of wines available in Jerobaoms and Methuselahs. 1313 Main also has a wonderful champagne list which includes the well-known labels, or grandes marques, as well as bubbles from grower producers and negociants. There are of course a full complement of sweet and fortified wines to end the meal. The people at two adjacent tables seemed to enjoy their dessert wine– two glasses of 1890 De Oliveiras Verdelho Reserva Madeira ($150 per glass) very much– a sweet end to a memorable meal.

Oenotri has a busy, open kitchen and a bustling dining room.

Oenotri www.oenotri.com is a downtown Southern Italian restaurant that we return to again and again. It’s a fun, casual restaurant with delicious, well-priced fare, a lively bar and great service. Salads are inventive and large enough to share. We had a stone fruit salad with pancetta and nuts that was a great beginning to our meal ($13). Other antipasti on offer include pork belly, salmon crudo and seasonal vegetables.

A stone fruit salad was a great choice on a warm night.

Pastas range from a standard like bucatini with Alfredo sauce to an unexpected canneloni stuffed with pigeon. The pasta dishes are also suitable for sharing and prices range from $17 to $18. We didn’t have pasta this time but have enjoyed them as part of past meals here.

The pizzas are thin crusted and tasty and range in price from $15.50 to $18.00. If Oenotri’s seasonal toppings aren’t enough, diners can add traditional items like anchovy, Calabrian Chili or pancetta for a few additional dollars. We shared the nicely spicy “Diavola” pizza with gypsy peppers, lamb sausage and fior di latte with heirloom tomatoes. We added arugula to ours– vegetables are so important!

This was a terrific pie– crispy, thin crust and tasty toppings.

There is also a selection of “secondi”– main plates, usually including a fish, a meat and a poultry dish, that change frequently. We chose the swordfish prepared in the typical Sicilian agrodolce style which was served with grilled squashes and fennel. We had a crisp 2013 Tami Grillo from Sicily which was perfect with the meal. Main courses are in the $28 to $32 range.

Sicilian-style swordfish took me back there, for a little while.

A nice Sicilian wine was a great match for the food.

We were too full for dessert after another delightful dinner at Oenotri! Check their website for events and news www.oenotri.com.

A bonus to our meal was learning from our server about Cadet www.cadetbeerandwinebar.com, a fun little bar just around the alley. Naturally, we had to pop by and check it out. We were there on a surprisingly crowded Monday night. Turns out it is a popular spot among those who work in the hospitality business. Plenty of restaurants are closed on Monday night and Cadet is where those folks go to take a break.

Cadet has a lively bar scene with libations and a casual menu.

Monday is “School Night” at Cadet.

Other restaurants in downtown Napa that we’ve enjoyed and recommend checking out include: Celedon www.celedonnapa.com, Zuzu www.zuzunapa.com, Angele Restaurant + Bar www.angelerestaurant.com, and Kitchen Door www. kitchendoornapa.com at Oxbow Market. If you have any favorites we haven’t talked about, please let us know and we’ll be sure to add them to the list for our next visit.

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