Local Spots

Motorcycle Mania—Moto Talbott Collection

I’m not much of a motorcycle aficionado myself, but I have been married to one for enough years to recognize the distinctive sound of a Ducati from a distance. On our recent trip to California’s Monterey Peninsula, we drove up to Carmel Valley to indulge in some wine tasting and discovered the Moto Talbott Collection. My husband’s delight quickly faded when he saw the motorcycle museum was closed, but fate smiled once again when founder Robb Talbott appeared in the courtyard.

Moto Talbott is a “must see” for motorcycle aficionados.

We had a nice chat, but Mr. Talbott was off to an appointment so no chance for a sneak peek behind the gates that day. We left with the promise to return later that week; my husband clutching the newly printed brochure Robb had kindly given him.

Rare, vintage, award- winning and beautifully restored motorcycles, all with stories to tell, await visitors to Moto Talbott.

Bright and early that Friday morning, we returned to Moto Talbott. In the courtyard were the museum’s newest acquisitions—two BMW Isetta 300s. Originally produced in Italy in the 1950s, Issetas are known as micro cars or “cabin scooters.” These two had been languishing in a hayloft in a Northern California barn for more than 40 years. Robb had picked them up just the night before.

These Isseta micro cars had just arrived after languishing in a hayloft for 40 years.

The Moto Talbott Collection opened in November 2016 and has been attracting motorcycle fans from all over the world ever since. The collection is mostly motorcycles (more than 170 of them) but also features scooters, vintage transportation- themed toys, motorcycle memorabilia and more. The bikes are artfully displayed in a 6,000 square foot building with walls of snow barrier board trucked in from Wyoming and constructed by hand. Every detail has been carefully thought through.

This BMW is handsomely displayed against a handcrafted wall of Wyoming snow barrier board.

There are some real gems in the collection, including the Ducati Marianna that won the very last Motogira D’Italia in 1956 and is credited with saving the Ducati Company from possible closure. There’s a terrific photo of the wining rider, Guiliano Maoggi, with a cigarette clenched in his teeth on the wall above the bike, along with the fascinating story of his victory.

Visitors can learn about the last Motogiro d’Italia and the winning Ducati’s intriguing victory tale.

Steve McQueen’s 1931 VL Harley is there, as is a demonstration bike from WWII with the gas tank and engine covering cut away so soldiers training on it could learn what went where. This particular bike, which is quite a rare find, came to the collection complete with troop movement maps, gloves and a fully- functioning Thompson sub-machine gun, which has since been rendered inoperable.

Every bike has a fascinating story and a great deal of history behind it, including this rare WWII demo bike.

There’s a Vespa specially designed to promote Coach’s leather goods, a motorcycle that was buried in the backyard to protect it from certain destruction in a fire, race and award winners, beautiful restorations, trial bikes, rare and vintage motorcycles—they’re all here.

Each Coach logo was carefully hand painted on this promotional Vespa.

What really makes a trip to Moto Talbott special is the opportunity to learn the history and stories behind these bikes from the engaging and knowledgeable docents. We were fortunate to spend the morning with Rich Watson, former Economics professor at UC Santa Barbara and a lifelong lover of motorcycles. Rich could not have been more informative and entertaining. We were captivated by the intriguing tales he told, from his description of riders being impaled by enormous splinters during the American board racing days of the early 1900s to stories of unbeatable BSAs.

Engaging docents like Rich Watson enrich the visitor’s experience by sharing the stories and history behind the bikes.

These Indians from the early 1900s were used for American board racing– an extremely dangerous form of motorcycle racing not permitted for decades.

The impressive collection currently features road bikes and dirt bikes from 16 countries, from the Czech Republic to Mexico. MV Agusta, BSA, Bultaco, BMW, Indian, Harley Davidson, Kawaski, Maico, Gilera, Triumph, Honda—nearly every notable motorcycle company is represented here.

Road bikes and dirt bikes from around the globe are part of the collection at Moto Talbott.

The “Riders for Health” motorcycle under the orange vest traveled more than 80,000 kms bringing health care and aid to those in need in Zimbabwe.

The former proprietor of the highly regarded Talbott Vineyards and chairman of the board of the eponymous clothing company his family founded, Robb Talbott’s commitment to excellence and quality is as apparent in the Moto Talbott Collection as it was in his previous endeavors. The museum was at least three years in the making and was created so that he could “…share his passion for bikes and beauty… And mostly to share the stories of these bikes and their history.” The museum’s mission statement rings especially true after talking with Robb—”preservation, restoration and education…all driven by passion.”

Some of founder Robb Talbott’s vintage toys are displayed here.

We also had the chance to meet Bobby Weindorf, the museum’s curator and chief restorer. Motorcycles have been part of Bobby’s life since he was 12 years old. His career was built on his passion: five years with American Honda’s factory road race and Supercross/Motocross teams; a dealership in Santa Barbara for 10 years, and several years in Italy working with motorcycle race teams. When asked about his three favorite bikes in the collection, he chose the 1977 MV Agusta 850SS because, “It’s big, powerful and makes a bold Italian statement,” a 1977 Hodaka Super Combat Wombat, “…cute dirt bike with an awesome name,” and a 1965 BMW R 69S in Granada Red, for it’s “pure elegance in a rare color…”

Moto Talbott is dedicated to preservation, restoration and education–and doing a spectacular job in all three area.

Bobby noted that Moto Talbott will continue to evolve: expanding and changing the collection, offering events, and continuing to educate visitors, preserve the “survivors,” and restore the classic motorcycles that he and the others involved in this marvelous museum have worked so tirelessly to make accessible to motorcycle lovers from around the world.

Update–The museum has been temporarily closed due to Covid-19. For more information click here.

San Francisco’s Star-Studded Dining Scene: Al’s Place, Lord Stanley, Kin Khao, SBP

Forget any notion of stuffy dining rooms, pretentious servers and worshipful silence that Michelin- starred restaurants may conjure in your mind. A recent trip to San Francisco showed beyond a doubt that dining in that city’s expanding constellation of contemporary, casual (unless you feel like dressing up), one star Michelin restaurants is more about revelry than reverence.

Think fun not fussy at San Francisco’s constellation of one-star Michelin restaurants.

Al’s Place, Lord Stanley, and Kin Khao were on our list this time, as well as a return to State Bird Provisions, which we discussed in detail in a previous post.

Al’s Place

We were only able to get a 5:30 p.m. reservation on a Sunday night at the very popular Al’s Place. The sparely decorated room was packed when we arrived. There are only 46 seats at this Mission District eatery and they are in high demand—it’s no wonder with Chef/owner Aaron London at the helm. His creative cookery is the reason Bon Appetit magazine named Al’s Place best new restaurant of 2015. Just about everything coming out of the tiny kitchen was remarkable.

Chef Aaron London (AL’s Place) was kind enough to stop and smile for a quick pic. His fantastic fries are pictured to his left.

We were a party of four that night so had the chance to sample quite a bit of the menu, which is designed for sharing. One of our guests had food sensitivities but the kitchen was incredibly accommodating.

There’s a reason Al’s Place is packed. The food is stellar and the service exceptional.

Start with some Snackles—small dishes just right for munching while you enjoy an aperitif and decide what else you’d like to eat. We had chickpeas Catalan style and the highly touted brined French fries served with a smoked apple dipping sauce. The fries lived up to their reputation–crispy and differently delicious!

Catalan style chick peas with a tasty Romesco sauce was one of the snackles we chose.

Next up were the Cold/Cool choices. Some eyes rolled when I suggested a salad, but our server, Rebecca, assured us that this would be the most beautiful salad ever and she was right—cool, crisp greens, avocado, pistachio, all topped with lovely edible flowers.

A beautiful salad, indeed.

We also chose the green bean casserole. This is not the casserole of anybody of a certain age’s youth—the dish was composed of perfectly cooked green beans served cold with tiny tomatoes, micro greens, basil, and creamy burrata—yum!

Not your mother’s green bean casserole.

The black lime cod in stone fruit curry was the star of the Warm/Hot offerings, for us. The fish was perfectly prepared and the curry was complex with just the right amount of heat.

The cod in stone fruit curry was spectacular.

The yellow eye bean stew with torn bread was hearty and could have been a meal on its own. Some at our table found it a little salty though.

Yellow eye bean stew with torn bread was a substantial dish.

Our pick from the Sides was smoked brisket. We’re still not sure why this dish is considered a side. It was a large portion and our companions pronounced it thoroughly delicious. We got a second order.

The brisket could be the centerpiece of any Sunday supper.

On our visit, Limited Availability choices included trouty brioche, fish head under a brick, a dry aged rib eye and foie gras. Limited Availability means just that, so if you see something you like, order it. It may not be on the menu the next time around. We said, “yes” to the trouty brioche with its terrific textures, colors and tastes. It was a thick slice of brioche with roe and pickled green peach—superb.

Trouty Brioche featured creamy cheese nestled under a bed of crunchy roe on a tender slice of brioche.

Though we all were very satisfied with our dinner, we couldn’t resist dessert. The brownie with ice cream was perfect for sharing and a sweet ending to a sensational meal.

We always try to save room for dessert. A good idea at Al’s Place.

Dine al fresco at one of the street side tables.

Al’s Place also has a few outdoor tables on the side of the restaurant. Perhaps we’ll try one of those on our next visit– and there will definitely be a next visit! (Update– we have returned to Al’s Place several times and have always been delighted with the food, service, wine– the entire experience!)

Lord Stanley

If you go to Lord Stanley, and you should, consider sharing all of the dishes you want to try, especially if there are only two of you. You’ll have the opportunity to try more of the delicious dishes on offer that way.

Lord Stanley has tables upstairs and down. The room is casual and lively.

We shared starters—salt cod beignets and onion petals in sherry vinegar and then had the heirloom tomatoes—all deliciously good and clever rifts on what only sound like simple dishes.

Onion petals in sherry vinegar topped with edible flowers was our first dish.

The salt cod beignets were tasty with a dollop of house- made tartar sauce.

A look inside the beignets.

Each dish had something special and unexpected—all in a very tasty and good way. The heirloom tomatoes were done with cardamom and gazpacho, for example.

Perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes in a light, bright gazpacho.

We both had the incredible halibut for our entrees which was served with butter beans, roasted dashi, and samphire, whose crunchy texture reminded us of ice plant. It was all delicious, prepared perfectly, and easily big enough to share. We realized we could have had a meat dish as well, had we chosen just one order of halibut. The short rib at the next table looked amazing—and we were assured that it was. Next time!

The halibut was succulent and rich.

Lord Stanley has a well-priced and interesting wine list. Our server was very knowledgeable and made several excellent suggestions for wine pairings.

Lord Stanley’s interesting wine list has a number of organic/ biologic wines on offer.

This light Loire Valley red was organically cultivated and manually harvested. It was a fine complement to our meal.

Though we’d had plenty to eat, we splurged and had the dark chocolate pudding with black sesame and toasted rice for dessert. The “pudding” was a delightfully different assemblage of tastes and textures from the dark chocolate crumbles to the crispy toffee on top.

The dark chocolate pudding was a winner in both taste and texture.

Don’t be put off by Kin Khao’s simple surroundings. Located in the Parc 55 Hotel in what looks a lot like a coffee shop—this place is really good. They have extraordinary Thai food, attentive, knowledgeable service and a solid wine list with interesting choices that complement the cuisine nicely.

Spare surroundings belie the rich, tantalizing Thai food on offer.

The brief wine list perfectly complements the complex flavors of the food.

Entrees are pretty large but the appetizers are so good, it’s hard not to start with one or two. The Som Tum Papaya Salad is complex, flavorful and super hot—maybe the spiciest item on the small menu, but one bite leads to another and after a few, you’ll enjoy the heat.

If you like it spicy, don’t miss this papaya salad.

The Pretty Hot Wings are just that, and pretty tasty, too. They hold their own against Andy Ricker’s Pok Pok wings in our estimation.

Tangy, spicy and just right, these wings hold their own against more well- known competitors.

The Pinto Market Lunch with green curry, rabbit meatballs, pork riblets, salad and rice was more than satisfying and a veritable smorgasbord of taste treats.

The Pinto Market Lunch is a hearty, satisfying meal full of flavor.

A light chicken broth and a additional house- made curry sauce come on the side.

We also had a very hearty and savory noodle dish called Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew. Tender braised pork cheeks with rice noodles, Ngiew flowers, cherry tomatoes, pickled mustard greens in a hearty pork broth made a delicious dish. Curries are prepared in- house from scratch each day.

Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew was a sensational dish with complex flavors.

For a smaller appetite or on a hot day, try the chicken fat rice with ginger poached chicken, served with a restorative cup of chicken broth—light and delicious.

The Pad Kee Mao with drunken egg noodles, ground pork, chilis basil and onions was outstanding. It’s also available as a vegetarian dish made with tofu.

Kin Khao has numerous vegetarian and gluten free items on their menu. Some items can easily be made vegetarian by substituting tofu.

Kin Khao’s dining room between meals.

We’ve enjoyed several lunches and dinner at Kin Khao and have been delighted each time. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner.

State Bird Provisions

State Bird Provisions is still a tough table to get but well worth it.

Our unreserved and enthusiastic recommendation of State Bird Provision still stands. We had another terrific evening enjoying lots and lots of small, shared, interesting dishes at this popular Michelin one-star restaurant.

Perfect heirloom tomatoes with crunchy quinoa and tahini chili oil. Piquant and refreshing.

Sashimi grade fish and careful spicing makes SBP’s take on poke outstanding.

If you can score a table here do it, even if you have to get up at midnight, 60 days in advance to book, which is exactly what we do. If that doesn’t work out, take heart, they do take a limited number of walk-ins at 5:30 p.m., every night.

A whole grain pancake topped with fiscalini cheddar and heirloom tomato is a two bite treat.

State Bird’s extensive wine list has something for every palate. Try one of their wine flights.

The San Francisco Bay Area now has 49 Michelin star-rated restaurants from Los Gatos to the Napa Valley. What are you waiting for? Let’s go eat! Find new favorites? Please share them with us.

Three Scoops: Gelato in Florence

After a long day of touring, or in the middle of a long day of touring, or just because you’re in Italy, in the beautiful city of Florence, you’ll want gelato. Even if it’s wintertime. Avoid the places with the big puffy gelato displays and colors not often seen in nature. Look for signs that say gelateria artigianale, naturale, or biologico. Go for gelaterias that keep the ice cream in stainless containers—covered stainless containers are even better.

Covered stainless steel containers keep gelato fresh and flavorful. Daily flavors will be listed on signs along with prices.

All the available flavors will be written on a sign and you already know what fragola (aka strawberry) looks like. We love that you can choose two or more flavors even for small cones or cups, so experiment with any flavor combination you fancy. Go wild! If someone behind the counter asks, “Panna?” Just say “Si” and your cono will be topped with delicious fresh whipped cream, often at no extra charge. Feel free to indulge.

To make your gelato even more satisfying, say yes to panna montata– fresh whipped cream often offered gratis– free!

In Florence, some say Perche No! www.percheno.firenze.it can’t be beat. This is one of the oldest gelaterias in the city, serving it forth since 1939. It is good, really good, so if you’re in the city center you should definitely stop in for a cone.

Many of the best gelaterias have lines, but they go quickly. It is worth waiting at places like La Carraia.

Often touted as the best in town, La Carraia www.lacarraiagroup.eu , with two shops in Florence, is branching out and opening a store in Rome, too. We like their gelateria on the Altro Arno just over the bridge of the same name. This is a line worth standing on– and there is always a line. They also have scrumptious looking cakes and other tempting confections but we single-mindedly stick to the gelato.

You can choose at least two flavors even on small cones.

It’s hard not to be happy with a cone in your hand.

Our little apartment’s location by the Duomo caused us to walk by Edoardo daily. www.edoardobio.it We don’t resist temptation often or easily so had ample opportunity to sample their delicious gelato. Just grab a number by the door and peruse the list of daily flavors while you inhale the intoxicating aroma of their handmade cones. Don’t worry–the line goes quickly.

Grab a number and enjoy the heady aroma of fresh baked cones while you wait at Edoardo.

This is what delicious looks like. Chocolate with chili (cioccolato con peperoncino) and cinnamon (cannella) are two of my favorite flavors.

Grom www.grom.it was the first of the “all natural” gelato we enjoyed many years ago and it’s still delicious. The company began in Torino and now you’ll find them in cities across Italy, including Florence, and around the world from New York to Jakarta. They even have an outpost in Los Angeles now.

Grom is in cities throughout Italy and worldwide.

Gelato preferences are personal, of course, so go explore. Find your favorites and please share your discoveries with us.

Florentine Favorites: Where to Eat

Many visitors to Florence seem to be on a quest, trying to squeeze in as much culture as they can in a few short days. Don’t overlook the culinary component of travel. Take a deep breath and spend some real time in this glorious city if you can, and take time out for some superb dining while you’re here.

A quick 10- minute walk from our apartment near the Duomo over the Ponte Santa Trinita brought us to Il Santo Bevitore’s welcoming doors. It seemed like everyone inside was having a great time. We did, too, and put it at the top of our list of Florentine favorites.

Il Santo Bevitore on the Altro Arno is one of our absolute Florentine favorites.

The comfortable dining rooms (there is a large one, pictured above, and a smaller one just beyond it) are lively and full of happy diners enjoying the excellent cuisine. The atmosphere is casual and warm with just the right amount of buzz.

You can request an English menu or practice your language skills with the Italian one.

The food is absolutely delicious and the service is attentive and friendly. Some stand outs were the porcini risotto, the pigeon, rombo, and the veal.

This simple pear and pecorino salad was a perfect starter.

We always say, “si” to a sformatino– a light, savory custard just right as a first course..

Il Santo Bevitore’s veal was perfectly prepared.

You can’t go wrong with the pastas, meat or fish—whatever you choose is going to be good. Save room for dessert though. The chestnut torte and yogurt mousse were both terrific.

The succulent pigeon is a game bird lover’s delight.

Fresh fish (rombo in this case), lardons, and potatoes were elegantly plated and beautifully prepared.

Save room for dessert. This yogurt mousse was spectacular.

We would’ve eaten at Il Santo Bevitore every night, but felt the need to explore some of Florence’s other delightful dining options. Remember, reservations here are a must. Il Santo Bevitore is open for lunch and dinner.

Try Cucina Torcicoda for lunch or dinner. They have a restaurant, a casual trattoria, and a pizzeria– all in the same building. When you book in, and you must reserve, let them know which you prefer. They’ll be very different dining experiences but all delicious.

Torcicoda’s elegant and tranquil dining room.

Torcicoda’s wine list features fine selections from all over Italy.

We had an excellent dinner in the restaurant. The food was superb and the service attentive.

This exquisite pork dish was rich and flavorful. The chestnuts gave it a great contrasting texture and crunch.

Memories of this sensational truffle- topped tenderloin make my mouth water.

The casual trattoria has a different menu from the restaurant’s and it looked good, though we didn’t have time to try it.

We’ll try the casual trattoria next time.

We ate lunch at Torcicoda’s pizzeria and sampled four different pies. We were especially pleased with the ones topped with fresh buffala mozzarella cheese– gooey and delicious but with a crisp, thin crust–just the way we like our pizza.

The pizzeria was packed day and night, so be sure to reserve.

Fresh buffala mozzarella, available on a number of Torcicoda’s pies, upped the yum factor.

Pizza bianca with sausage and broccoli rabe was another hit.

The pizzeria also has a good-sized outdoor dining area which is open rain or shine. It’s fun to watch the parade of tourists passing by on their way to the beautiful Santa Croce across the piazza, as you enjoy your meal.

We walked past Konnubio one afternoon at lunchtime and it looked so inviting we decided to go back for dinner. It was a good choice. The restaurant is casual and lively but the noise level is not over the top.

Diners were just beginning to arrive when we took this photo. Every table was taken in both dining rooms when we left.

The food was beautifully plated and everything we tried was delicious.

Seared tuna with fresh asparagus was pleasing to the palate and the eye.

Tender lamb with caper berries was outstanding.

Konnubio has an extensive wine list and knowledgeable, helpful waitstaff.

You should reserve a table as we saw only one walk- in party seated, while others were turned away. Sit in the main dining room at one of the tables with the big comfy chairs instead of the side dining room, if you can.

Cantinetta Antinori is owned and operated by the Antinori wine family and is located in the beautiful Antinori family palazzo right in the center of Florence. We’ve had many delicious lunches here as well as a very good dinner.

Enjoy fresh baked bread and Tuscan olive oil from Antinori’s estate while you peruse the extensive wine list.

Thinly sliced artichokes with parmesan cheese was a winner.

The food is typical Florentine cuisine and oriented to the seasons.

Crispy potatoes topped with filet of white fish, sundried tomatoes, and capers was full of flavor and texture.

The hearty stewed beef on a bed of polenta is typical Florentine fare.

They have an extensive wine by the glass (or half glass) program so you can sample many of Antinori’s broad line at reasonable prices. It’s fun to try wines you may not see at home.

Cantinetta Antinori is very popular with local business people especially at lunch, so book a table.

We discovered Trattoria 13 Gobbi, a cute little place tucked away on a small side street, on one of our meandering walks through this beautiful city.

The dining room is charming and features plenty of vintage posters, advertisements and more to catch your eye.

The flavorful vegetable soup was presented in this lovely copper pot.

We plan to give dinner a try there next time.

Trattoria Cibreo is another one of our lunchtime favorites. We go to the trattoria at Via di Macci 122R, instead of Signore Picchi’s very popular but pricier restaurant, Ristorante Cibreo. The food is terrific and the menu seasonal. Be aware that they don’t serve pasta and they take no reservations at the trattoria. They open for lunch at 12:45 pm and you need to be there early to get a table. People will be lined up and waiting for the doors to open. The trattoria is closed Sundays and Mondays. There’s a tripe truck parked nearby that the always has a line. Snack while you wait?

While not to my taste, this tripe truck does a great business.

Here are a few other Florentine restaurants we’ve enjoyed over the years: Omero is a wonderful classic Florentine restaurant way up above the town with great views. The food is delicious, the service is attentive and this well-known eatery is extremely popular. Be sure to book in for lunch or dinner.

Il Latini is the place for multi- course and enormous meals. There wasn’t a menu when we went for lunch–they just kept bringing food to the table. It was all good and there was plenty, served family style. The key word here is “basta”! Enough! Tell them how many courses you want before they start bringing it—especially if you don’t want the meat courses.

Del Fagioli means the beans, literally. This is a good, casual family place close to the Uffizi. The owner seemed to know at least half the patrons when we had dinner there some time ago. Corso Tintori 47r telephone for a reservation—they were turning people away. 055244285

There are so many wonderful restaurants, trattorias and pizzerias in Florence you’re bound to find some to fit your taste and budget. Check out the Mercato Centrale for some great casual options and share your favorites with us! Buon appetito!

Florence’s Fantastic Mercato Centrale

Craving a cappucino and a cornetto? Need a bouquet of fresh flowers or picnic provisions? How about fresh pasta to enjoy at home? Or maybe you’re just in the mood for pizza and a beer? Florence’s Central Market or Mercato Centrale Firenze is Florence’s answer to foodie heaven. Housed in a historic building originally erected in 1847, and open from 10 a.m. to midnight, this is the place to go.

Pick up picnic provisions like salami, cheeses, prosciutto and more at Florence’s Mercato Centrale.

Fresh pastas and delicious sauces to go with them make a tasty and quick meal that’s easy to prepare in your vacation rental.

The market on the ground floor is fun to explore with every kind of seasonal produce, pastas, sauces, meats, cheeses, and flowers. Anything you could want that’s fresh and in season is right here.

The Mercato Centrale has a bounty of seasonal produce, herbs and fresh flowers.

Upstairs at the Mercato Centrale is one of our favorite stops for for lunch, though you can also have breakfast, snacks, sweets, drinks and dinner here.

Neapolitan-style pizza is done right at La Pizzeria Sud.

Go get some terrific Neapolitan style pizza at Pizzeria Sud. You can take your slices to one of the communal tables or go upstairs for table service. We opted for the former and enjoyed the hustle and bustle of the place.

Lunch is ready!

There are lots of tasty options– pasta, panini, cheese and meat platters, fish, pizza, even burgers and fried chicken to choose from. There is also a coffee bar, wine, beer, pastries, gelato and delicious desserts–something to please most any palate.

Choose your favorite foods from the array of vendors upstairs at the market and grab a seat at the communal tables. Mangia!

Everything on offer here from the hamburgers made from Chianina beef at La Toraia di Enrico Lagorio, the pasta from Raimondo Mendolia, Maurizio e Poala Rosellini’s fresh fish, the bufala mozzarella, beautiful baked goods, chocolates and gelato are all of the highest quality.

A great selection of fresh or aged cheeses to eat now or enjoy later are readily available.

If you’re looking to really splash out, try these fragrant truffles.

If your tastes run more to fried foods, you’re in luck.

We even sampled the trippa fritta—fried tripe, a Florentine favorite, though not to my taste.

Trippa fritta is a Florentine favorite.

After lunch (or dinner), you’ll probably want coffee and something sweet. Please remember that no self-respecting Italian would even consider ordering a cappuccino, latte or similar milky coffee drink after breakfast hours. Stick to the espresso. Ask for a caffe lungo if you miss your American coffee. Desserts are in abundance here and include gelato, pastries, cookies, and cannoli, which are stuffed while you wait—as they should be. Crushed pistachios on the ends are optional.

These confections look almost too good to eat. Almost…

Upstairs is also where you’ll find Eataly, which features Italian grocery items, household goods, personal care items and my favorite Florentine soaps from Nesti Dante. You’ll also find a wine shop specializing in Chianti Classico selections, a cooking school, a bancomat (ATM) and public restrooms which are in short supply in many cities like Florence.

If you’re looking for Italian wines, particularly those from the Chianti Classico region, you’ve come to the right place.

Students pay rapt attention at the Lorenzo de Medici Cooking School upstairs at the Mercato Centrale.

If you feel the need for yet more shopping, there are also stalls outside the building on the surrounding streets with scarfs, leather items, and souvenirs—all the typical Florentine goods you’d expect to find.

Shoppers can find everything from dry pasta to Pinocchio at the market and stalls outside.

Buon appetito and happy shopping!

Tuscan Tables: Where to Eat In and Around Panzano

Finding great places to enjoy the local cuisine can be part of the adventure when you’re traveling, but sometimes it’s nice to have at least a couple of dining recommendations. Here are a few of our “go to” restaurants in and around Panzano in Chianti:

One of our all time favorites for an elegant and delicious dinner and/or lunch in the countryside near Panzano is La Locanda di Pietracupa in San Donato in Poggio. The restaurant’s dining room is understated and polished but it’s the cuisine here that really shines. Credit for the inventive, refined rifts on Tuscan cuisine go to the two young couples who own the restaurant. They take fresh, local ingredients and give them a delightful and sophisticated twist. In the autumn, enjoy lighter than air ravioli stuffed with pumpkin, while summer brings tagliolini topped with delicate zucchini blossoms and truffle. The filet of beef may be wrapped in a paper thin sheet of lardo or accompanied by a rhubarb sauce, depending on the season. The Fritto della Locanda, their version of fritto misto, comes with chicken, rabbit and seasonal vegetables fried in the lightest batter possible. Everything is spectacular here but save room for dessert—those are too delicious to miss. La Locanda di Pietracupa has a lovely outdoor terrace for warm weather dining and has four rooms available for rent upstairs over the restaurant. Be sure and book in—it is very popular. We’ve met people from Florence who’ve driven down just to dine here. They also have several rooms for rent and offer cooking classes.

Many of our favorite restaurants feature outdoor terraces for warm weather dining. Here is Osteria Alla Piazza’s, which in summertime will be very busy for lunch and dinner.

There is a bend in the road between Panzano and San Donato where you’ll find a tiny hamlet called La Piazza. The hamlet has little more than a few stone houses and a terrific restaurant called Osteria Alla Piazza. This area favorite has several appealing small dining rooms and an expansive terrace for warm weather dining.

Tagliolini with fresh truffles is a seasonal favorite.

Osteria Alla Piazza changes their menu regularly to capture the freshest seasonal ingredients at their peak. During an autumn visit a few years back we feasted on the porcini—presented beforehand in a big basket for our appraisal, and served in every course we ordered. With great anticipation, we returned just a few days later to further satisfy our craving for these meaty mushrooms only to be told, “funghi finito”—no more, all gone, season’s over!

The elegantly prepared guinea fowl was superbly satisfying.

The beef tenderloin–filetto all’ aceto balsamico was a standout at Osteria Alla Piazza.

Save room for dessert. This panna cotta with strawberries was delicious.

Several dinners we enjoyed earlier this summer confirmed that the kitchen at Osteria Alla Piazza is still clearly committed to providing diners with the season’s best. Don’t miss the tantalizing tagliolini with truffles, the melt in your mouth filet of beef with cippolini (tiny onions), or the fritto misto, which someone in our party seemed to order everywhere we went. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and reservations are strongly suggested.

Passing through Lucarelli on the road from Panzano to Radda, you’ll find Osteria Le Panzanelle — a local favorite—and one of ours, too. It’s always busy and always good. Friends who live in nearby Radda in Chianti complained it was getting harder for area residents to get a table during the busy summer months, so reservations are a must.

Osteria La Panzanelle is a local favorite– and for good reason.

At Le Panzanelle you’ll find classic Tuscan cooking in a casual, lively setting. Begin with platter of local charcuterie, the Affettati Toscani—a nice big plate of prosciutto and delicious Tuscan salami. The involtini di melanzane, which is sliced eggplant rolled around cheese and baked with a tomato sauce and capers is also a tasty starter.

A heaping platter of prosciutto and local salami is a great way to start a meal at La Panzanelle.

The eggplant is hearty and big enough to share.

There are plenty of terrific pastas to choose from—you can’t go wrong here. For the main course they offer an enormous Bistecca alla Fiorentina for two, roasted rabbit with capers and anchovies, hearty cinghiale con olive (wild boar with olives), scottadito di angello (lamb chops) and other Tuscan specialties like peposo—a delicious slow cooked beef dish.

You’ll find delicious Tuscan classics at Le Panzanelle.

Simple scottodito–lamb chops with a translation meaning “burn your fingers.”

Hearty meat dishes are popular in most Tuscan restaurants. Le Panzanelle’s kitchen turns out a superb selection.

We’ve eaten here many times over the years and have tried most things on the menu. We’ve always been delighted with our meals and service is always friendly. It’s just a short 10 to 15 minute drive from Panzano and well worth it. Unlike many local restaurants, which close in November and reopen in late spring, Le Panzanelle is open nearly year round except for their vacation closing sometime in January/February.

For fabulous food and amazing views go to Ristoro di Lamole in the tiny hamlet of Lamole. You’ll drive up a beautiful winding road in the hills near Greve, passing orchards, vineyards and country homes, and when you reach the top—the friendly staff at Ristoro di Lamole will be waiting with a warm welcome.

Fillipo will be sure you’re well looked after at Ristoro di Lamole.

Be sure to reserve a table on the terrace so you can enjoy the stunning countryside views along with their innovative and sophisticated take on Tuscan cookery.

Enjoy the spectacular views from Ristoro di Lamole’s terrace.

House made burrata makes a great starter and the ravioli with pear and pecorino should not be missed.

The creamy burrata was served with locally sourced mushrooms.

Meat courses like the tender pork filet and rabbit are outstanding and the fritto misto was perfect. Everything we ate– from the antipasti to dessert– reflected a refined sensibility and was absolutely delicious.

Pasta with truffles was perfectly prepared at Ristoro di Lamole.

Pastas range from the delicate truffle enhanced, to hearty fare like this papparadelle with wild boar.

The filet of pork reflects the kitchen’s sophisticated take on classic Tuscan cuisine.

The Lamole Lamole wine from this area is just one of the more than 300 bottles on Ristoro di Lamole’s extensive wine list. Open for lunch and dinner.

Oltre il Gardino is a family-run restaurant right off Panzano’s main square, the Piazza Bucciarelli. We ate here for the first time on our recent trip and were very pleased with their solid, classic Tuscan cookery.

Ravioli with spinach, pecorino and sage was a hit.

The papparadelle with wild boar was a favorite, too.

The menu focuses on Italian comfort food and includes favorites like bruschetta al pomodoro, ribolita (tomato soup with bread), house made pastas like papparadelle with cinghiale (wild boar) and tagliatelle with pigeon.The ubiquitous Bistecca alla Fiorentina, peposa, and other typical dishes, were all well prepared.

Tender fried chicken is representative of the comfort food served at Oltre il Gardino.

The dining room in the converted farmhouse is cozy and well appointed. Every table was taken the night we were there, mostly by Italian diners, and everyone seemed to be having a good time. Even though it was a full house, service was attentive.

In the warm weather, the restaurant opens their summer bar—an expansive terrace with beautiful views overlooking the Conca del Ora, the shell of gold. Lunch, aperativi and dinner are served on the terrace.

La Cantinetta di Sassolini is off the Piazza Ricasoli at #2, in the old part of Panzano up the hill from the main square near the church of Santa Maria Assunta.

The dining room at La Cantinetta di Sassolino.

The menu centers on typical Tuscan dishes. Dinners can begin with assorted local cheeses like pecorino, a sheep’s milk cheese often served with jam, crespelle—delicate crepes stuffed with vegetables, which happened to be asparagus on this occasion, and one of our favorites, sformata, a light savory custard of seasonal vegetables.

A delicate savory sformata was sensational at Sassolino.

Next up are pastas, which are often sauced with game or meat here. Main courses like tagliata di manzo- sliced beefsteak, roasted meats, lamb chops, or chicken fricassee are served in ample portions.

It’s perfectly fine to share a pasta course. Just say, “Uno per due, per favore.”

Tagliata di manzo makes a great Sunday supper.

The dining room is lovely and boasts a large fireplace, which is a welcome addition in the colder months. The restaurant also has a terrace for outdoor dining in the summer. Note: Enter through the doors on Via Giovanni di Verrazano, though you can park in the piazza if there’s space.

Service is warm and welcoming at La Cantinetta Sassolino in Panzano.

We didn’t have a chance to return to Il Vescovino on our visit to Panzano this summer, but would recommend it based on earlier visits. The menu features Tuscan favorites; beginning with antipasti of Tuscan salami and prosciutto, chicken liver pate, olives and fennel. Pastas include local specialties like pici, which is a thick hand made spaghetti, and tagliatelle with funghi or papperadelle with a ragu. Grilled chicken, braised beef, Bistecca Fiorentina (from Dario Cecchini’s macelleria), porchetta and tagliata di manzo—the grilled, sliced steak popular in Italy, round out the menu. The restaurant has gorgeous views from inside and out on the terrace, which looks over the vineyards below. Il Vescovino is at via Ciampolo da Panzano, 9, 50022 Panzano, Greve in Chianti, Italy +393383648446.

Dinners at Dario Cecchini’s restaurants are multi course, family style affairs. Bring your appetite!

We mentioned Dario Cecchini, the uber popular butcher from Panzano with a worldwide following in another post. We would be remiss not to include his terrific restaurants here: Solociccia, which is Tuscan slang for “only meat” and features cuts from all parts of the cow; Solociccino, a mini version of Solociccia open for lunch only; Officina della Bistecca showcases sensational steaks including the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina; and Dario DOC—just for lunch from Monday through Saturday and the only Dario restaurant where reservations aren’t needed. All of the restaurants serve family style, multi course, prix fix meals, and while famous for top quality meat, vegetarian options are available.

“Tuscan butter” (center) and other delicious meat products on display at Antica Macelleria Cecchini in Panzano.

Panzano and environs are very popular travel destinations, particularly in the summertime. Avoid disappointment and make reservations. These are some of our favorite places to dine in and around Panzano. We’d love to hear about yours, so please leave comments.

Mangia bene!

PDX Hits and Misses: Muscadine, Nonna, and Din Din

Portland has become one of our favorite food cities and we’ve been fortunate to visit frequently over the last few years. There are so many terrific restaurants–we have to force ourselves to branch out from our favorites and give other places a try. That was our goal on our most recent excursion to the Rose City.

Try Muscadine for delicious Southern cooking.

Muscadine

Southern food is enormously popular in Portland, especially when it is as well prepared as it is at Muscadine muscadine. We stopped by for lunch a scant 30 minutes before closing, yet were warmly welcomed. It was a beautiful, sunny day so we opted for one of the picnic benches outside the casual restaurant.

Choose one of Muscadine’s outdoor tables on a sunny day but get there early for the fried chicken!

Sadly, the fried chicken, which we had been anticipating hungrily, was sold out. We had been warned that that could happen to late arrivals. Never the less, there were ample appealing choices on the menu and the four of us settled on several portions of catfish, the salmon croquettes and the BBQ cup.

Muscadine’s tasty BBQ Cup…

The BBQ cup turned out to be a nice big biscuit filled with tender pulled pork in a tasty BBQ sauce topped with cheese and baked in the oven. So delicious, I soon forgot about the chicken.

…delicious, tender pulled pork in a fluffy biscuit.

The catfish had a crunchy, crispy crust and was moist and tender on the inside. It was served with a “come back” sauce much like a traditional home made tartar sauce with a kick—a perfect foil for the fish. The salmon croquettes were flavorful and included two ample croquettes

Crispy catfish, fried okra and crunchy cornbread.

The mains came with three side dishes and there were fourteen to choose from. The sides could also be ordered separately for $4 each. We sampled several–perfect corn bread; fried potatoes; tasty, crispy fried okra (I’m not usually a fan of okra but this was really good); a sweet and sour coleslaw—different but flavorful; extra crispy bacon; braised local squash; grits; and biscuits with excellent preserves and butter. The preserves were great with the cornbread, too, and our server was happy to bring more.

Salmon croquettes, grits, squash and fried okra.

Service was attentive and gracious and though we probably overstayed our welcome, were never rushed– in fact our waitress kept our coffee cups filled right up to the time when we finally pushed ourselves away from the table. We’ll be back for sure.

Nonna

DOC’s casual sister restaurant Nonna.

We were excited to try this casual offering from the popular and well-regarded DOC next door. Nonna nonnapdx has a casual vibe with a large bar area and simple, wooden tables. There is another equally casual dining room just beyond the bar.

Nonna has a large, welcoming bar.

Nonna also has a cozy and charming patio in the back, hung with clothes lines and a few items of clothing that were certainly not going to dry on the rainy Friday evening we dined there. It would be a wonderful place to gather with friends and enjoy some good Italian cooking and a beverage on a pleasant Portland evening.

A small, charming patio would be a great gathering spot in nice weather.

Like many Portland restaurants, Nonna’s menu is locally focused and changes often. We ordered four appetizers to share between the four of us, as suggested by our server. We chose the octopus, polenta, golden beets, and spaghetti with chilies and breadcrumbs. Everything was nicely prepared and presented.

Charred octopus reminded us of Sicily.

The octopus was tender and delicious with a nice char and served with a lemony aioli, olives, peppers and potatoes–just like the octopus we had enjoyed many times in Sicily. This was my favorite of the starters we chose.

Polenta with pesto.

The fried polenta with pesto was tasty, though not terribly exciting. The roasted beets on the other hand were sublime – a beautiful, big bowl of golden beets with walnuts, chevre, mache, with tasty tarragon vinaigrette.

Golden beets received a generous topping of chevre and hazelnuts.

The pasta dish was small but perfect for sharing. The chilies had a nice zip and the breadcrumbs added welcome texture. We did feel that three appetizers would have been sufficient since we had each ordered an entree as well.

Piquant peppers and toasted breadcrumbs made this spaghetti dish special.

We felt dinner was off to a great start and were all happily enjoying our shared plates when halfway through the appetizers, our entrees arrived. We were surprised, especially since the room is so small that anyone who had even glanced at our table could see we were nowhere near ready for our next course. We cannot account for the lack of communication with the kitchen on this score.

With no place on our small table to put them, the server pulled up a smaller table and rather unceremoniously plopped the four main plates down– we commented that we were not ready for the entrees and were in no rush. Our server replied we could eat the mains when we were ready and walked away. We quickly dispatched the appetizers so our main courses wouldn’t be ice cold when we began.

Perfectly prepared halibut was a hit.

There were three main courses or “secondi” to pick from and we selected all of them. Two of us chose the halibut, which was served with wonderful caramelized fennel wedges and grapefruit segments– a great compliment to the fish in both flavor and texture. The halibut was crispy on the top and perfectly tender and moist inside– cooked just right.

Another in our party had the pork chop with the Romesco sauce served with nice bitter broccoli rabe and roasted potatoes — a large plate with a nicely done chop. We shared a bottle of 2014 Domaine de la Fouquettee —a nice Rosé that worked well with everyone’s meal. Two in our party enjoyed local craft beers as well.

The pork chop was perfect.

Our other dining companion chose the enormous burger served with crispy fries and topped with cherry tomatoes, provolone, aioli, and mixed greens– a step up from the usual accompaniments. He pronounced it the perfect burger.

Non-traditional toppings made the burger a standout.

I have to think our dining experience would have been greatly enhanced had the food service been better timed. Several online reviews alluded to service issues. If they can work out this problem, we’d happily return for the delicious and deftly prepared food. In the meantime, we’re adding DOC DOCpdx to our list for next time.

DOC looks inviting.

Din Din

Din Din’s “Supper Party” is held one weekend each month.

We had wanted to try Din Din dindinportland for several years– ever since we had gone in search of brunch one weekend only to find the place closed. Note to self–always call first. We were delighted to secure a reservation for our party of four for their Saturday night Din Din “Super Party”. One weekend each month the restaurant hosts small groups– about 12 to 14 guests at a time, for a fixed price menu, wines included. Dinner begins at 7:30 p.m.

A lovely Rosé got things off to a great start.

We were greeted in the bar area by our hostess, Courtney, who provided us all with a nice glass of Schloss Gobelsburg Cistercien Rosé and a passed appetizer of roasted Persian Star garlic, Silver Queen corn, and Fiore Sardo on pain d’épices. Ours was a festive and friendly group and several of the guests had dined at Din Din before. They raved about their experiences and we were all eagerly anticipating a splendid evening ahead.

Our group was lively and friendly.

Everyone introduced him or herself and we chatted amiably until Courtney directed us to the communal table, set with vintage silver and china, in the center of the casual but charming room.

A beautiful buttercup squash soup started our meal.

Our first course was a delicious buttercup squash soup garnished with a Costata Romanesco zucchini salad. The soup was accompanied by a glass of Chateau d’ Orschwaihr Pinot Gris ’13. We were surprised that the soup was served at room temperature but still enjoyed it very much.

The wine and conversation flowed nicely but the meal sadly did not. There was quite a long gap between the soup and the next course and it became clear that Courtney had to prepare, plate and serve the food singlehandedly. Our fellow guests who had dined at Din Din on other occasions were very surprised that she had no assistance and commented that there were usually two or three people working together on the meal.

Salmon with a Chartreuse sauce was next.

Next up was a lovely  salmon with a Chartreuse romaine sauce and baby carrots, served with a glass of Domaine de Juchepie Anjou sec “Les Monts” ’11. The salmon dish was also served at room temperature, bordering on cold, and it was pretty evident it should not have been. I can imagine that had it been the proper temperature, it would have been delicious. Nonetheless, the conversation continued to be lively, more wine was poured and a helpful guest made sure everyone’s water glasses stayed full.

The meat course would have been delicious had it been hot.

After another lengthy lull, the meat course was served– to half the guests. Finally, we all had our plates– flank steak with a sauce of Melrose pepper Tulsi basil cream, cucumbers and brussel sprouts with lime. I believe this would have been a wonderful dish had it been heated, but the entire entree was cold. The vegetables were still tasty though cold but the meat and sauce suffered badly. This was accompanied by a very good glass of  Domaine de la Bonne Tonne “Les Charmes” Morgon ’13. At this point our fellow guests were assuring us that ours was not the typical experience at Din Din and counseling us to give it another try.

Conversation and wine flowed freely but the meal’s pacing was problematic.

Next up was a crisp salad of simply dressed greens. While we ate our salads, I noticed Courtney in the kitchen quickly slicing fruit. Finally, dessert was served– thinly sliced Seckel pear with Cointreau caramel  and gruyère cheese. Personally, I was disappointed. The sparkling rose—a Foss Marai “RooS” brut rosé NV served with the dessert compensated somewhat– it was delicious and an excellent finish to an uneven and puzzling dining experience.

By the time we had dessert and the final glass of wine it was nearly midnight and our fellow diners began requesting their checks. The party was clearly over and it seemed no one wanted to be the last to leave.

I followed up with Courtney several days after our meal and learned that her colleague, who usually assists in the kitchen, had been taken seriously ill and so she was left to create the Din Din experience alone. With this in mind we’ll give it another try sometime.

Wild Ginger: Seattle Standby

Wild Ginger www.wildginger.net has been part of Seattle’s restaurant scene since 1989. We have visited the Asian eatery and satay bar several times during numerous visits to the Emerald City. This time, we chose it for lunch.

Wild Ginger can accommodate large groups in its multi-level downtown restaurant.

The downtown location (there is also one in Bellevue) is huge and has multiple dining rooms on two levels. Wild Ginger offers an expansive menu with dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Indonesia and Malaysia. You’ll find lots of traditional favorites on the menu, including gluten free and vegan options, which should appeal if you have a large group. There were a number of these at our recent visit.

The expansive menu has vegan and gluten free options.

Starters include Siam lettuce cups at $18.50/ $22.50, traditional Chinese potstickers for $9.50/$13.50, and Vietnamese style chicken wings for $13.50. We began with fresh and tasty “Buddha rolls”– spring rolls served with a pineapple dipping sauce, $9.50.

Tasty Buddha Rolls started our meal.

We decided to skip the soup and salad category which ranges from squash and sweet potato stew $5, to green papaya salad $11. Though many of the main dishes, like the fragrant duck $16.50/$28 and green curry chicken $13.50/$17.50, sounded delicious, we opted for several luncheon specials, which we shared. Luncheon specials rotate regularly, about every other week. These typically include poultry, fish, meat, and vegetable options, and a “chef’s special” fried rice dish.

The chicken curry was delicious. We wanted more.

Our waiter recommended the special yellow chicken curry with bok choy $14, and told us he ordered himself any time it appeared on the menu. We agreed it was delicious! He also touted the grilled prawns $15, which sounded tasty, but we found the dish pedestrian and disappointing. If you’re planning on sharing, be aware that servings were quite small, at least among the dishes we chose.

Seafood, poultry, meat and vegetable options are available as lunch specials.

If you’re interested in imbibing, Wild Ginger has a large, well thought out wine list as well as cocktails, beer, and of course, teas and soft drinks. Overall, Wild Ginger offers a wide variety of good Asian food, but if you don’t choose wisely, you’ll find yourself with an expensive tab at the end of the meal.

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