Art

A Captivating Castle Stay: How to Spend the Night

Passing through suburban neighborhoods on the outskirts of Ghent, Belgium, the scenery changed dramatically when we turned off the main road and found ourselves in a verdant and wooded area. The drive down a beautiful, tree-lined allée took us to a small brick gate house. We had arrived at our castle.

Renaissance castle and road leading to it

Once inside the massive iron gates, I gasped in delight as Kasteel van Ooidonk, or Ooidonk Castle, came into view. Surrounded by a moat and spectacular gardens, the turreted castle looked like something out of a fairytale. When Agnes, the housekeeper met us on the ancient wooden drawbridge, the fantasy of a castle stay became real. This was to be our home for the night, thanks to an invitation from Visit Flanders that I had excitedly accepted.

Where Are the Most Castles in Europe?

France, Germany and Italy all have more castles than Belgium, but it does claim the highest density of castles per square kilometer on the continent. Flanders, where we were visiting, has the most castles in Belgium. There are many that are open for daytime tours (more on that in a story about castles near Antwerp), some that allow the public to wander their gardens, and a few that welcome overnight guests, like Castle Ooidonk.

*Like many castles in Belgium and throughout Europe, Ooidonk welcomes visitors to the gardens for a fee.*

gardens with blooms — *Like many castles in Belgium and throughout Europe, Ooidonk welcomes visitors to the gardens for a fee.*

Maintenance on these grand homes is both expensive and ongoing. Visitors help defray costs and preserve Belgian history at the same time. Historic Ooidonk Castle, less than a 30-minute drive from Ghent, rents four luxurious ensuite bedrooms for overnight stays and invites the public to visit the gardens and tour the home for a fee. It is a protected national heritage monument and a protected landscape landmark. It is also a private residence.

Welcome In

*Cross the drawbridge and enter these spectacular wooden doors to visit Ooidonk Castle. Our home for a night.*

Agnes graciously welcomed us into the castle and showed us to our spacious, light-filled room with large windows overlooking the moat. The room was decorated with antique furniture, homey touches like family photographs, good quality linens, and a splendid chandelier. The bathroom was modern and large with a sizable walk-in shower.

Our bedroom was lovely, light-filled and supremely comfortable.

sitting room with sofa and red carpet — Our bedroom was lovely, light-filled and supremely comfortable.

After dropping our bags and reviewing the house rules, she walked us through the common areas we would have access to. Because the castle is a private residence, overnight guests may not wander at will.

large modern kitchen — Overnight guests can use a dedicated part of the enormous kitchen, including the refrigerator.

Overnight guests can use a dedicated part of the enormous kitchen, including the refrigerator.

Guests are welcome to use the modern, well-equipped kitchen (from which grand events could be catered I imagined) to prepare a simple meal, coffee, or a cup of tea. Agnes showed us all of the things at our disposal. There was also a lovely dining room we could use, and living area with comfortable chairs and a sofa for reading or playing board games.

living room with comfy couch and chairs — *Overnight guests are welcome to make themselves comfortable in this sunny living room.*

We were also invited to use the outdoor terrace areas. These are furnished with tables and chairs with views over the expansive grounds and gardens beyond. Overnight visitors are welcome to wander the gorgeous gardens whenever they like, unlike day visitors who may enter only at prescribed times.

Other Castle Guests

terrace with table and chairs vaulted brick ceiling — *This is one the outdoor terraces available to overnight guests. Antique chairs and cannon mix with comfortable modern seating making it a marvelous space to contemplate the gardens beyond.*

We met the only other overnight guests on the terrace. They were a young local couple who had left their one-year old twins at home with their grandparents. We had a nice chat and learned that the castle stay was a Mother’s Day gift from husband to wife. They had visited the gardens before but had never been inside the castle. This was a chance to enjoy time together and have dinner in the nearby coach house, wife Michelle told us.

dining room with patterned fabric wallcovering and yellow damask tablecloth — *Housekeeper Agnes prepared a bountiful breakfast and served it to the four of us in this light-filled dining room.*

The coach house, or Het Koetshuis, is just beyond the castle gates. We had reserved a table there, too, but we vowed to give the pair some privacy. We looked forward to seeing them again at breakfast, which Agnes would prepare for the four of us and serve in the dining room. I was already feeling like nobility!

Making Plans with the Count

man standing next to lion statue — The Count generously offered to come and show us his home on a Sunday morning.

carved stone balustrade leads upstairs — The Count generously offered to come and show us his home on a Sunday morning.

I asked Agnes if it was possible for her to take us on a tour of the rest of the castle, but she politely declined saying she was quite sure her boss would want to. Her employer turned out to be the castle’s owner Henry t’Kint de Roodenbeke, the sixth Comte t’Kint de Roodenbeke. Less than 30 minutes after chatting with Agnes, the Count called to arrange to meet the following morning after our breakfast. I was thrilled at both the opportunity to see the castle and meet the Count.

Dinner at the Coach House

people sitting on a wooden deck, menu, glass of champagne, a drink and small bowl of snack crackers — *It was lovely to begin our evening on the terrace with our aperitifs before going inside for dinner. Diners can enjoy their meals outside during warm summer months if they chose.*

After freshening up and receiving careful instructions on regaining entry to the castle after dinner, we crossed over the drawbridge and down the gravel path, out the heavy iron gates, now secured, to the Het Koetshuis. It was less than a 10-minute walk from the castle.

Since the weather was so pleasant on that summer Saturday evening, the terrace was lively. We were invited by our host Barbara to join the other guests enjoying their aperitifs outdoors. We would dine indoors afterward.

armchair, sheep wearing a scarf and paintings on a brick wall — *Whimsical sheep greet guests at Het Koetshuis.*

Barbara and her husband Zef, who also own a commercial bakery, bought the coach house just before the Covid pandemic. They seemed to know just about everyone who walked through the doors. Even though we may have been the only tourists in the restaurant, they welcomed us warmly. They also graciously translated the menu for us, which had some English words, but was primarily written in Dutch.

people eating in a rustic restaurant — *Brick walls, warm wood, animal portraits, and interesting light fixtures create a cozy and rustic atmosphere at Het Koetshuis.*

The two-story dining room has an upper floor used mainly for wedding receptions and special events. The downstairs is beautifully decorated with brick and wood. It features a gorgeous fireplace that likely gets plenty of use during colder weather.

Seasonal Specialties

There was a special Father’s Day menu on offer that evening. My husband chose beignets in a mango curry dip to start and a luscious lamb with an herby risotto for the main course. The included dessert was ice cream with Bailey’s Cream.

beignets, vegetables and a yellow sauce on white plate — Beignets with a zucchini garnish and mango curry sauce was a tasty starter.

lamb and risotto on a plate with red garnishes — Beignets with a zucchini garnish and mango curry sauce was a tasty starter.

There were so many delicious sounding local specialties it was hard to choose. Ultimately, I selected the Rundsfilet served with a salad of local greens and crispy Belgian fries. The steak was perfect and served with a wonderful mushroom sauce. Dessert was a highlight. I picked a fantastic pear and chocolate tart. Afterwards, as if we need anything more, Zef presented us with almond flecked Madeleines and little chocolates.

A Goodnight’s Sleep and a Delicious Breakfast

Completely satiated, we walked home to “our” castle and approached just as the lights came on. It was a magical moment. We fell asleep to the sound of croaking frogs in the moat; moonlight streaming through the drapes we’d left partially open.

castle from a distance illuminated at night — *As we walked back from the coach house, the lights came on illuminating “our” castle.*

After a delicious breakfast of fresh-baked breads and croissants with butter and jam, fruit, yogurt, and eggs, it was time for our tour. We met the Count in the courtyard where he welcomed us to his family home and gave us a history of the castle and the land on which it stands.

A History of Ooidonk Castle

man standing outdoors with a historic brick building behind him — *We met the Count in the castle’s courtyard where a bomb exploded during WWI, killing 32 German soldiers billeted in the house, along with two unlucky villagers*.

There has been a castle here since the 14^th century the Count told us. Strategically positioned on the Leie River, it was meant for defense. Previous castles were destroyed twice, once in 1491 and again in 1579 during the religious wars between the Catholics and upstart Calvinists or Protestants.

In 1592, Maarten della Faille, an Antwerp businessman, bought and rebuilt the castle in the Spanish-Flemish Renaissance style. The architectural style is notable for large windows, steep roofs, towers or turrets, and decorative “Spanish” brick and stone work. The castle maintains that appearance today.

The Count’s ancestor Senator Henri t’Kint de Roodenbeke, who served as president of the Senate and later Minister of State, purchased the castle in 1864 with his wife Zoe de Naeyer. She was the daughter of a wealthy local banker. The couple hired a French architect to modernize the castle. Everything inside, from floors to ceilings and even room size, was redesigned in the style of the time.

tapestry covered walls and antique furnishing in a room — *There is considerable French influence in the decor and furnishings in the castle since it’s makeover by Senator Henri t’Kint de Roodenbeke and his wife Zoe in the 1860s.*

The exterior was largely preserved except for an addition to the dining room. The date 1868 is carved into an exterior wall to memorialize the structural change and interior updates.

luxurious dining room in yellow — *The dining room was one of the few structural additions made by the Count’s family. The interior was completely redesigned.*

The Impact of War

stained glass, portraits, busts and a baby bassinet in a room — *Stained glass from the late 19th century makes a perfect backdrop for family portraits, sculpture, and handcarved furniture, like this piece that has held generations of Roodenbeke children.*

WWI ravaged the area. The Count told us that German forces had commandeered the castle during the war. It was relatively unscathed during the hostilities, other than the windows. New windows were installed in 1919 to replace those that had been shattered in bombings. He also said that a bomb had exploded on the very courtyard in which we stood, killing 32 Germans and two villagers.

A Private Home

As we followed the Count inside, he reminded us that Ooidonk Castle is not a museum. It is his family home. He was born in the grand house and expects it will eventually be his final resting place. He was justifiably proud to show us room after exquisitely decorated room and explained in detail about the splendid furnishings and art his family has collected for centuries.

He pointed out that many of the rooms, bedrooms in particular, are furnished entirely in the Empire or Napoleonic style. Mahogany columns, swan and eagle motifs, gilt bronze on furnishings, and the use of striped fabrics and straight lines characterize the period.

small bedroom with light blue brocade bed covering — Spendid inlaid furniture and a gorgeous brocade bed covering are highlights in this Regency-style bedroom.

blue bedroom with blue velvet drapes around the bed — Spendid inlaid furniture and a gorgeous brocade bed covering are highlights in this Regency-style bedroom.

Some rooms showcased Egyptian influences, others were done in Antwerp and Italianate style. He also showed us furniture made by Dutch craftsmen using exotic woods brought from the colonies. These pieces are notable for their beautiful marquetry and intricate carved details.

Exquisite Furnishings

beautifully furnished living room with antiques — This comfortable room with personal photos reminds visitors that Ooidonk Castle is a private residence, not a museum. Many of the furnishings are museum-quality though, like the ebony wood cabinets flanking the windows.

There are many exceptional pieces of furniture in the castle, but two of the most memorable are spectacular late 16^th or early 17^th century ebony wood cabinets created for travel. One is Italian-made. It features lapis lazuli and marble and is adorned with painted floral patterns and birds. The other is Antwerp-designed with the tortoise shell inlays popular at the time.

man standing by sedan chair now used as a cabinet — *The Count showed us the 18th century sedan chair repurposed as a curio cabinet.*

I also spotted a sedan chair. These were used to ferry ladies of high social standing through city and village streets during the 18^th century. Streets at that time typically ran foul with mud and sewage which would sully expensive clothing and shoes. The Count showed us how the chair has been cleverly converted into a cabinet. Now instead of ladies in their finery, it holds miniature portraits.

Public and Private Rooms

There are more than 90 rooms in the castle and there is a clear separation between public rooms and private family quarters. All of the rooms are beautifully furnished with antiques and family heirlooms. Rooms for gathering, like salons, living and dining rooms, are sited to invite natural light and the warmth of the sun.

a blue walled sitting room with cozy furniture — *I can easily imagine cozying up with a book in this lovely sitting room.*

Bedrooms are mostly North-facing and feature fireplaces since there was no central heating when the improvements were made to the castle by the Count’s ancestors. Some of the bedrooms have 17^th and 18^th century beds, which didn’t allow one to fully recline to sleep. For a brief time, lying down was thought to invite death.

sitting bed — *It’s not an optical illusion. This antique bed requires sitting up to sleep.*

Private Chapel

chapel with upholstered chairs — Church doctrine required no rooms be above the chapel.

had heavy drapery surrounding the — Church doctrine required no rooms be above the chapel.

The castle has a private chapel, as would be expected in a wealthy Catholic home. It is situated at the top of the building because church doctrine forbade any rooms to be higher than the chapel. It is also sound proof to insure household noise doesn’t distract from one’s prayers and meditation. The chapel is used for private worship by the family.

His Home is His Castle

The walls throughout the Count’s historic home are covered in original art. There are tapestries, beautiful paintings, 17^th century drawings, a portrait of Napoleon’s son, and and others memorializing two sisters garbed in Empire-period clothing who died in the early 19^th century. There are spectacular clocks, an 18th century harp, porcelain, and objets d’art to admire in every room.

Hallway with art, table, chairs and a hat on a stand — *There are beautiful objects and art everywhere, even in the hallways at Ooidonk Castle.*

There are so many wonderful family treasures collected over hundreds of years here and we enjoyed learning about them from the Count. He also pointed out historical photos and documents on the walls as we walked together.

Many of the rooms display modern photographs of the Count and his family. They’re celebrating weddings, enjoying vacation time, and sometimes posing with royalty and Pope John Paul II. The photographs are a visual reminder that this is someone’s home and, in this case, his home is his castle, but you can stay here, too!

How To Stay or Visit Ooidonk Castle

To reserve a stay in the spectacular Ooidonk Castle book through Airbnb.com. Entry to the gardens is available Tuesday through Sunday afternoons. The cost is 4 euro for adults and 1 euro for children. The castle is a private residence and tours are given only on Sundays and public holidays April 1 through November 1. There are no self-guided tours.

couple in a well-appointed bedroom with fireplace — *This beautifully appointed bedroom could be yours for a night or two!*

Make reservations by phone +32 (0)9 282 26 38 or email els.lisabeth@ooidonk.be. Tours are 15 euro for adults and 4 euro for children. Click here for information about overnight stays, garden visits, castle tours and for information about the public events held on the castle grounds throughout the year.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

Note: Photography is not permitted inside the castle. The Count generously granted me permission.

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How to Have a Wellness Weekend in the Black Forest

fall foliage surrounds a pond with ducks

The charming German town of Badenweiler in the foothills of the Black Forest has been drawing wellness seekers for millennia. They come for the healing, mineral-rich waters to relax and find relief for everything from stress to rheumatism. A tradition since the Romans were here, we devoted our weekend in Badenweiler to bathing, both ancient and modern.

inside ancient Roman ruins of a bathing complex — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

signage about the romans who built these baths — The ancient ruins, surrounded by a park, are protected by a huge glass pavilion.

In addition to lovely, wooded scenery, hiking trails, and the thermal waters that flow from under the Black Forest, Badenweiler boasts some of the most expansive and best-preserved Roman baths north of the Alps. We were excited to visit them. We followed a small group of people down a leafy walkway into a public park. There we found the glass pavilion that protects this archeological wonder. We paid 3 euro each to pass through the turnstile and travel back in time, way back.

Roman Rituals

The extraordinary 2,000-year-old ruins include the caldarium, tepidarium, and frigidarium. Our guide, Dominick, explained the hot, tepid, and cold baths were visited in that order. Cold plunges, popular today, are nothing new. Thousands of years ago the ancient Romans were well-versed in the therapeutic benefits of thermal waters of varying temperatures.

Community baths played an important role in Roman life. They were used not just to bathe, but also to socialize and keep up on politics and local news. Their baths also often included steam rooms and relaxing areas for this reason.

Ruins of a Roman bath complex — *The extensive bathing complex is one of the best preserved n*orth of the Alps.

Roman sculpture, grooming aids, and even a replica of typical Roman wooden bathing shoes are among the exhibits inside the pavilion. These platform sandals protected bathers’ feet from the hot floors inside the caldarium. Dominick was brimming with historical and entertaining facts about the Romans who settled in this part of Germany and built this elaborate bathing complex.

ancient pipes used in the bathing complex — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Replica of Roman bathing shoes — These pipes are 2,000 years old.

Roman soldiers were often paid in land and encouraged to settle permanently in the areas they had been sent to conquer. This was the case in Badenweiler. Settler soldiers built these baths to enjoy the same rituals and amenities they would have enjoyed at home. Badenweiler’s healing thermal waters likely made these even more appealing.

Take the Tour

man in front of informational panels — *Our guide helped bring the ancient ruins to life. He gave the tour and answered questions in German and English.*

Visitors walk through and over the remarkable ruins on accessible walkways and have a bird’s eye view of all areas of the baths. Our guide explained the significance of each area in both German and English. Everyone in our small group spoke one or the other language. After a very informative hour-long walk through the Roman complex, Dominick led us out into the park surrounding the baths.

walkway over ancient ruins in the glass pavilion — *Walkways over and through the ruins make the complex accessible to all.*

Using our mobile phones to light the way we ducked through a small doorway, one by one. Dark and dank, we had entered a recreated ancient Roman drainage channel which had originally served the baths in this very spot. It was constructed in 1998. What a relief it was to return to sunlight after a short time inside the channel.

people exiting a tunnel — *The reconstructed subterranean drainage channel* *shows what masters of architecture the Romans were.*

It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but self-guided visits do not include the drainage channel, well worth seeing, or the wonderful stories Dominick shared that sparked our imagination and brought the distant past to life.

Modern Baths

After exiting the drainage tunnel, we looked up and saw people relaxing on chaise lounges on a broad terrace overlooking the park. They were enjoying the popular Cassiopeia Therme. Next door to the ancient Roman ruins, the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths draw visitors and locals alike to the healing waters within. The modern baths are housed in an impressive classical-style building.

Classical -style building with signage for Cassiopeia Therme — *The Cassiopeia Therme is a popular attraction in Badenweiler and can get crowded on weekends and holidays.*

Guests at these public baths enjoy the same thermal waters the Romans did, in a series of pools of varying temperatures and sizes indoors and out. Temperatures range from 30 to 36 degrees Celsius and are seasonally adjusted. Families, couples young and old, and this pair of American wanderers settled in for a relaxing afternoon in the healing waters.

Don’t Forget Your Towel

people waiting inside a large rotunda building — *People waited patiently to check in for an afternoon at the Cassiopeia Thermal Ba*ths.

This was our first experience in a public bath house. As we queued for entry, we realized we had already made a mistake not bringing towels from our hotel. Everyone else, we noticed, came equipped for the day with shower shoes, robes and towels. We had brought flip flops and swimsuits, but had to rent towels. We must not have been the only ones unprepared. Bathrobes, shower towels and sauna towels were available to rent at registration.

long hallway inside the Cassiopeia Therme — *A long hallway led to the gender-specific locker rooms. The rest of the facility is co-ed.*

Off to the changing rooms we went, locker keys in hand. The changing rooms had large lockers, restrooms, and showers. The faint sulfurous aroma of thermal waters wafted through the humid air as we approached the bathing areas.

No Lazy River

Though the day was overcast and a little cool, we headed to the large heated outdoor pool. People of all ages were clearly enjoying themselves. We saw couples floating hand-in-hand, kids leaping from their parents’ arms, and teenagers racing one another around the pool.

overview of large outdoor pool — *The giant whirlpool was a lot of fun and one of our favorite activities. Photo courtesy of Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH.*

There was a vast, oversized whirlpool at one end of the outdoor pool complex. We jumped in and let the water carry us, trying not to bump the other bathers as we circled, laughing as we moved through the swirling current. This was no lazy-river experience. We quickly figured out we would need an exit strategy to escape the strong current, but it was so much fun, we stayed in the fast-moving water for about a half an hour.

Take a Dip

There were many other pools to sample, so we held hands and made for one of the handles on the side of the pool. It took a few attempts, but we finally grabbed hold and swam out. After a dip at the other end of the huge outdoor pool, we headed indoors. There were a series of smaller pools inside on the ground level. Each had different depths and temperatures that were clearly posted. The smaller and shallower pools were popular (and populated) with young children. We avoided those. After exploring the options, we made a circuit from hottest to coolest pool and repeated it several times.

There were chairs and lounges around all the pools, indoors and out. Just like at home, people had “reserved” their chairs with towels and personal property. We took a short break on the comfortable lounges and enjoyed the view of the park outside.

Sauna Time

signage for thermal baths — *Signs outside the Cassiopeia thermal baths let guests know what to expect inside, including a wellness oasis.*

After enjoying almost all the pools on the ground level, we walked past the busy café and headed upstairs to the sauna area. We had become aufguss enthusiasts during our recent stay at the Adler Balance in Italy’s Dolomites and were looking forward to experiencing Cassiopeia’s saunas.

As we climbed the stairs, we noticed we were heading for an adults-only zone as well as a “textile free” area. This was a relatively new term to us and means simply, no swimsuits (or any other garments) allowed. The policy was evident in the large co-ed pool adjacent to the saunas, where naked bathers swam and floated, blissfully unencumbered by swimwear or self-consciousness.

Textile Free Zone

Another patron, perhaps sensing my foreignness, or hesitation, tapped me on the shoulder and pointed to the sign above the sauna, in German and English, when I failed to disrobe quickly enough. She may have thought I planned to enter the sauna in a swimsuit, which I knew was just not done.

signs inside the baths indicate different services — *These signs advertise the thermal baths and Roman-Irish bath*, *also in the textile free zone.*

Leaving our inhibitions and our swimsuits at the sauna door, we stepped out of our pool shoes and into the least hot (coolest would be a misnomer) of the units first. Cassiopeia has a range of saunas from 55 to 90 degrees Celsius. They include aroma, herbal, Finnish, crystal and infusion saunas.

There is also a Roman-Irish bath in the textile-free zone. That would have been a new experience for us but it was not available during our visit. There was plenty to keep us busy without it.

As we had learned at the Adler, a cold plunge or shower is a must after a sauna, especially if you are hopping back into another, even hotter one, as we were. Sauna, shower, repeat, was our plan. We both decided we enjoyed the hotter saunas and spent most of our time there. Interestingly, the saunas had little windows with a view of the pool. After several times in and out, we checked the posted schedule to see if aufguss was available.

The Aufguss Experience

Aufguss is a super-heated sauna experience usually enhanced by aromatherapy and music. It is led by an athletic (in my experience) and specially trained aufguss meister. Using towels and large handheld fans, the aufguss meister directs the hot air around the chamber and melts aroma-containing ice balls emitting scents ranging from relaxing pine forest to uplifting citrus into the sauna. Sadly, we had already missed the aufguss sessions scheduled for the day.

Glowing from our swim and sauna, and fully relaxed, we headed back to the locker room to shower and bid farewell to the Cassiopeia Thermal Baths. Our ancient and modern bathing experiences in Badenweiler were memorable. We’d return to Cassiopeia Therme in a heartbeat, this time with our own towels and robes.

If You Go

Roman Baths

glass pavilion over roman ruins in a park setting — *Take the guided tour to fully appreciate these extraordinary 2,000 year-old Roman baths.*

Tours of the ancient bathing complex are offered Sunday mornings at 11 throughout the year, with an additional one on Tuesdays at 4 pm during summer months. It is possible to enter the ruins without a guide, but we felt ours added a great deal to our visit.

There is signage, but in German only. Our guide was very helpful and we also used Google Translate to decipher many of the signs. The tour inside the pavilion is accessible to all, but the underground channel is not. Tour group size is limited. Book in advance.

Modern Baths

sign with historical information about the baths — *SIgnage shows how the Cassiopeia Therme has been modernized over its long history.*

Public baths are very popular in the Black Forest and Sunday is a busy day for them, as we learned first-hand. Guests of all ages from toddlers to octogenarians enjoy their time there. Bring your swimsuit, shower shoes, a robe, and a towel. Leave jewelry and valuables in your hotel’s safe. You will need a credit card or other payment method for your day pass, any food or beverages, and towel rental if you forget your own.

Be prepared to shed your swimwear and inhibitions at the sauna door and anywhere you see signs indicating “textile free” areas.

If you plan to shower in the locker rooms, bring your own grooming products.

The Cassiopeia Baths have a café for light meals and beverages. There is a lovely terrace overlooking the grounds and the Roman baths you can relax on.

We were guests of the Schwarzwald Tourismus GmbH for the Roman Baths tour and visit to Casseopeia Therme.

Sleeping and Eating

Schwartzmatt Hotel

large yellow hotel building — *The Hotel Schwarzmatt made a great base for exploring the Black Forest and Badenweiler.*

We stayed in Badenweiler at the very comfortable Hotel Schwartzmatt, a member of the luxury Relais & Chateau group. We opted for half-board as our stay was in low season and many restaurants in town were not open. The hotel restaurant, which served a varied and delicious menu focusing on local dishes, was open only to hotel guests in late autumn. There were a few coffee shops and boutiques open in town, but it was quiet. Summer is the busy season here.

Wellness Oasis

The Hotel Schwarzmatt has a “wellness oasis” featuring a steam bath, Finnish and Bio saunas, an indoor pool, a sun pavilion and terrace. The spa offers massages and other treatments and there is a fitness room. These facilities are only available to hotel guests. We didn’t have time for any treatments but enjoyed the steam room, saunas and pool.

Written and photographed (I could not take photos in the baths for obvious reasons) by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Friedrichshafen’s Fascinating Zeppelin Museum

zeppelin museum with playground in front of it

Can you resist looking up when the Goodyear blimp passes overhead? Imagine being among the first to spot a zeppelin as the strange looking aircraft floated by 125 years ago. Learn about the iconic airship that once captured the world’s imagination and transformed travel, commerce, and military strategy at a visit to Friedrichshafen’s fascinating Zeppelin Museum.

This engaging, family-friendly museum on Germany’s Lake Constance is perfect for fans of flight, military history, engineering, and adventure. The museum is a must for those fascinated by the Hindenburg disaster.

zeppelin suspended from ceiling — *After 125 years, Zeppelins are still a source of fascination.*

On the Shores of Lake Constance

museum signage about von Zeppelin — *Retired German General von Zeppelin correctly foresaw a rewarding future in the rigid airship.*

Housed in an enormous structure on the shores of Lake Constance, or the Bodensee in German, the Zeppelin Museum tells the story of the airship developed by Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin. A retired German General and an inventor with a penchant for engineering, he foresaw a future where these large, lighter than air, rigid airships would play an important role in transporting goods and people, with both commercial and military applications. For decades, they did just that.

men look at zeppelin models in glass cases

Visitors to the museum learn the science, technology, development and fascinating 125 year history of the airships. Compelling interactive and static exhibits tell the story. The first zeppelins, LZ 1 and LZ 2, were experimental aircraft and used to survey large swaths of Europe from their base in Friedrichshafen.

As von Zeppelin correctly surmised, the German military quickly saw their potential for surveillance and transportation. Consumer applications came soon after when zeppelins were used to transport goods over long distances.

First in Transatlantic Flight

reconstructed zeppelin hull — *The Hindenburg was the fastest way to cross the Atlantic for passengers and goods in 1936. The museum has a partial reconstruction of the airship* and *some of the wreckage from its crash.*

Zeppelins were first flown to destinations within Germany and then across Europe. The fast, economical airships became the first aircraft to carry passengers across the Atlantic Ocean.

By 1936, the Hindenburg carried passengers and up to eight tons of perishable goods like flowers, food, and medicine in its cargo hold for the relatively speedy two-day transAtlantic journey. Zeppelins were also used for polar expeditions including Roald Amundsen’s last fateful trip to rescue Italian explorers at the North Pole.

During Wartime

museum exhibits explain the zeppelin's history — *Zeppelins changed military strategy in WWI but barely played a role in WWII.*

The museum has fascinating exhibitions about the zeppelin’s role in WWI and the subsequent shut down of production demanded by the Allies after Germany’s loss in the conflict. Two of the already-built zeppelins were given as reparations to Italy and France. A third was sent to the USA. German engineers also came to the United States to work with the military to develop an American dirigible program.

Let Your Imagination Soar Aboard the Hindenburg

One of the highlights at the Zeppelin Museum is exploring a partial reconstruction of the Hindenburg. It was one of the largest passenger-carrying zeppelins ever built. The reconstruction was faithfully built adhering to the airship’s original plans.

Enjoy the 1930s Bauhaus design of the surprisingly spacious lounges and public spaces and relax where passengers would have. Peek into the restrooms and down the halls where the passenger cabins are located aboard the luxury airship. It’s clear that traveling by zeppelin was for strictly for those with means.

During the zeppelin’s heyday, 50 to 70 passengers could comfortably travel across the Atlantic to Lakehurst, New Jersey just outside of New York City, or to Brazil’s then capital, Rio de Janeiro. In 1928, the journey to New Jersey aboard the LZ 127 Graf Zeppelin took more than four days, while less than a decade later the Hindenburg could make the crossing in about 50 hours.

The Hindenburg Disaster

*The Hindenburg crash signaled the end of transatlantic passenger flights aboard zeppelins.*

After a transatlantic journey on May 6, 1937, the Hindenburg crashed and burned while landing in Lakehurst, New Jersey. The zeppelin was carrying half its normal passenger load on that flight. Incredibly, of the 97 people aboard, which included 61 crewmen and 36 passengers; 65 lived through the catastrophe while 32 souls perished. The museum contains photos, newsreels and news clips of one of the world’s most infamous air disasters.

An aviation failure of epic proportions, the fiery Hindenburg crash has been studied in minute detail since then. Spoiler alert: While a number of factors (highly combustible hydrogen gas, weather conditions, the flammable coating of the rigid aircraft) may all have played a role, the exact cause of the crash is still a mystery. Many of the most sensational photographs of the burning Hindenburg in the exhibition were taken by Richard Fleischhut, who became known for his photographic portraits of stars like Marlene Dietrich.

An older man and young boy look at an exhibit together — *The Zeppelin Museum is fascinating for visitors of all ages.*

With the development of faster aircraft and public confidence dwindling after the Hindenburg disaster, the era of passenger travel aboard zeppelins came to a close. This was not the end of the zeppelin, however. The museum explores how Hitler’s National Socialist Party leveraged the airships for propaganda purposes and used slave and forced labor brought to Friedrichshafen from across Europe to build zeppelins before and during WWII, even though they knew the airships had limited military usefulness.

A Family Connection

We have a family connection to that dark period of history. We spotted signage in the museum that noted after Allied bombers attacked Friedrichshafen on March 18, 1944, Hitler ordered all military production, including the Zeppelin factory, to move to hastily constructed underground bunkers. It was on that March 18th bombing run that my father-in-law and his B-24 crew mates, who had taken off from Wendling Air Base in the UK, were shot down over Friedrichshafen. They managed to fly their crippled aircraft across Lake Constance and landed in Switzerland, barely avoiding Nazi capture.

photograph and handwriting in an open book — *My father-in-law kept a journal during his internment in Switzerland in 1944. He is in the back row, second from the right, in the crew photo.*

The men were interned in Adelboden, Switzerland for the remainder of the war. The 392^nd bombing group had one of its deadliest days of the war on that mission. Only 10 of the 24 planes that flew to Friedrichshafen that day returned to England.

Models, Statistics, and A Flight Simulator

inside museum sign points to Hindenburg Hall — *Hindenburg Hall is the first stop for many visitors to the Zeppelin Museum.*

The museum has an entire gallery dedicated to the Hindenburg. In addition to models, photographs, and plenty of fascinating facts, the largest surviving pieces of Hindenburg wreckage are on display here; the rudder bearing arm and part of the tail unit.

In Zeppelin Hall, aviation fans can geek out over routes, statistics, comparisons, and models of various aircraft. There is a lot to see here. In addition to aircraft models, visitors can admire the luxurious Mercedes-Maybach custom-built for Herr Zeppelin, as well as other classic cars on exhibit.

*The museum explores the science, technology, and social impact of zeppelins. Be sure to see the advertisements for passenger travel.*

Ever wonder what makes a gas balloon rise or how airship gears and engines work? Visitors can learn the basics of flight technology and the science behind airships, and use the museum’s NT Zeppelin flight simulator to embark on a scientific research mission. The interactive stations bring the technology of zeppelins to life and are a hit with visitors of all ages.

The Wunderkammer: A Cabinet of Wonders

The zeppelin’s soaring popularity in the 1930s created a huge market for all things airship-related including clocks, coins, toys, and tableware. Based on 16^th century collector’s cabinets, the Wunderkammer is a treasure trove of 350 zeppelin-inspired items that can be further explored using the tablets near the displays. I could have spent hours in the Wunderkammer admiring everything from the carousel to miniature zeppelins.

Image and Power

After viewing the extensive exhibitions on the zeppelin’s history, development, role in two world wars, and the merchandise the zeppelin craze spawned; head upstairs to see the photography gallery. Image and Power: Photography in Focus contains fascinating photographs from the museum’s archives and explores the role photographs of the zeppelin played in promoting political agendas and national identity, among other things. The photographs will be on view until April 12, 2026.

photo of hindenburg over manhattan — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

photograph of women looking at zeppelin — The Hindenburg flies over Manhattan circa 1937. Photographer is unknown.

Art and Restitution

Obligation of Ownership focuses on the provenance of the 40 works of art displayed here from the Bodensee Museum and the ongoing difficulties of reuniting art confiscated or stolen from victims of the Third Reich. The museum scrutinizes its own collection regarding Nazi looting and relocation of cultural treasures, along with a look at art dealers who played a role. Even 80 years after the end of the war, restitution work continues.

painting of a woman on a wall — *The challenge of reuniting art with its rightful owners continues 80 years after WWII ended.*

Take a Walk

After your visit to the Zeppelin Museum, take some time to explore Friedrichshafen. More than half of the city was destroyed by bombing during WWII, but today there are beautiful public gardens to stroll in, lovely churches to visit, and plenty of coffee shops, bars, and restaurants to relax in while you take in the views across Lake Constance to Switzerland’s magnificent mountains.

sculpture along the shores of lake constance

As you stroll along the Lake Constance shoreline take a moment to enjoy the public art including Helmut Lutz’s Sound Ship (above left), a carved wooden toad who appears to be watching the sunset over Switzerland (center), and a memorial to Herr von Zeppelin (right) in the park across from the water. There’s also a pedestrian shopping zone nearby if you’re looking for some retail therapy.

Practicalities: Plan Your Trip

We stayed at the charming Hotel Villino, a Relais & Chateau property in Bodolz, a 30-minute drive from Friedrichshafen. The Villino is a delightful, family-owned property with 21 beautifully decorated, comfortable rooms and suites. It is surrounded by gardens in a peaceful countryside setting and has a spa on the property. The hotel was the ideal base for exploring the Bodensee region and a pleasure to return to after day trips throughout the area.

The Villino boasts a Michelin-starred dining room with two elegant multi-course pre-fix menus with an Italian-Asian flair. We enjoyed the restaurant very much, both at breakfast and dinner. Reservations are essential for dinner.

Eat Like a Local

We also enjoyed dining in nearby Lindau at Hotel Restaurant Alte Post, known for traditional Styrian and Swabian cuisine like schnitzel, roasts, spaetzle, and fish dishes. It was the perfect place for dinner before catching a performance of Swan Lake at the Lindau Marionettenoper a few streets away. (Get tickets to see a show if you can; it’s a delightful experience.) In the warmer weather Alte Post’s beer garden is open, serving beverages and hearty fare. Be sure to reserve as the restaurant is very popular with residents and visitors.

plates of food — Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

Traditional veal and spaezel at Alte Poste in Lindau.

For a very local experience, head to Bodolzer Dorfstubel in Bodolz. This casual eatery offers German dishes like schnitzel, spaetzle, wurstsalat, steaks, and stews. Our waiter, who didn’t speak English comfortably (I relied on Google translate) pulled up the restaurant’s Instagram account and showed us photos of the food to help us choose. It was a tasty meal that left us too full for dessert.

The Bodensee

The Bodensee region encompasses Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Lichtenstein, and offers travelers a world of cultural activities and culinary opportunities, along with boating, hiking, and other outdoor pursuits. The Zeppelin Museum is just one of the highlights in area filled with them. Be sure to get a Bodensee PLUS card for free admission to the Zeppelin Museum and 160 other attractions in the Lake Constance region. Visit traveltawk.com again soon for more stories on the fascinating cross-cultural Bodensee.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without permission from the publisher.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream!

Autumn in Strasbourg: The Calm Before the Christmas Markets

Half- timbered buildings n Strasbourg's Petit France.

There’s much more to Strasbourg than its world-famous Christmas Markets, which attract visitors from around the globe every December. When we visited in early November, the city already felt festive, with a chill in the air and a palpable sense of anticipation.

Christmas tree with cathedral spire in background — *Strasbourg’s Christmas tree stands ready for decorating in Place Kleber. The Cathedral’s spire towers in the background.*

Galeries Lafayette unveiled its third-floor Christmas boutique and storefronts throughout the city were dressed for the season. The enormous Christmas tree was erected in Place Kleber, crews were testing the lights, and holiday decorations were beginning to sparkle across the city.

Galerie Lafayette department store with tram passing by. — *Galerie Lafayette was already showing its holiday finery.*

Residents told us that once the Strasbourg Christmas Markets officially open, from November 26 through December 24, the streets become nearly impassable. Markets pop up in every neighborhood, which adds to the magic, and the crowds, as December progresses. November felt like the perfect time to be in Strasbourg: festive and wonderfully uncrowded.

A Rich History

Strasbourg calls itself the Capital of Europe, not only because of its central position in the historic Alsace region, now part of France’s Grand Est, but also because it hosts both the European Parliament and the European Court of Human Rights.

Half- timbered building on the River Ill — *Its captivating fusion of German and French culture, cuisine, and architecture makes Strasbourg a unique destination.*

For centuries, Strasbourg shifted between French and German rule, and that cultural blend makes Strasbourg feel distinct from anywhere else in France. You’ll see it in the architecture, taste it in the food, and hear it echoed in the language. There’s no place quite like it.

What to Do and Where to Go in Strasbourg

Strasbourg Tourism Information office — *Make the Strasbourg Tourism Office your first stop for a Strasbourg City Card, information, and recommendations.*

Strasbourg has fascinating museums, beautiful churches, historic neighborhoods, lovely parks, walking tours, boat rides, and even tiny train tours. Make the Tourist Information Office in Cathedral Square your first stop and pick up a Strasbourg City Card, which gives discounts on museums, attractions, and transportation. Here are some highlights to help you plan your visit:

The Iconic Cathédrale Notre-Dame

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the city’s star attraction and the most visited cathedral in France after Paris’s Notre-Dame. Construction began in 1180 and continued until 1439. One of the first things you’ll notice is the single spire. Although builders had centuries to add a second one, wars, finances, and concerns about the stability of the landfill beneath the cathedral likely were the reason the spire is solitary. The result is an unforgettable, asymmetrical masterpiece. Its 142-meter tower made it the tallest building in Europe until the 19th century.

Notre Dame Cathedral de Strasbourg — *Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is the city’s most visited site.*

The cathedral has a wonderful blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Remarkably, much of its medieval stained glass, including the spectacular rose window, has survived centuries of conflict and remains intact.

Note: The cathedral closes to tourists during mass but welcomes worshippers. Once mass ends, everyone must exit immediately. I learned this firsthand when I had to convince the guard to let me stay long enough to light a candle!

Tick Tock Don’t Miss This Clock!

The cathedral’s extraordinary astronomical clock is a must-see. More than three million people visit the clock each year. Check the sign outside the cathedral to see if it’s on display. The schedule varies. We finally saw it on our fifth and final day.

When the clock is available for viewing, enter through the side door near the gift shop. Arrive before noon to buy your 4 € ticket and claim a good spot for the 12:30 p.m. presentation. Tickets cannot be reserved. Even in November the area around the clock fills up quickly.

Strasbourg's astronomical clock — *The skeleton hammers, the cock crows and the apostles circle around Christ at exactly 12:30 PM.*

While you wait, watch the excellent video (German and French with English subtitles) explaining the clock’s history and inspired engineering. Commissioned in 1547 and completed in 1571, the mechanism tracks not only time but ecclesiastic holidays, phases of the moon, solar cycles, and the movement of the zodiac. This is an astonishing feat of 16th-century ingenuity, mathematics and craftsmanship.

At precisely 12:30 p.m., the show begins: a skeleton chimes the hour, a rooster crows, and the twelve apostles parade past the Christ figure three times. This exquisite centuries-old marvel is one of Strasbourg’s must-see experiences.

crowd of people looking at antique clock — *Get to the Cathedral by noon to stake out the best viewing spot.*

This is the third astronomical clock built for the cathedral. The first, built 1352–1354, stood in the south transept across from the current timepiece. It was replaced in 1574 by a clock whose complexity, precision, and craftsmanship brought fame to the mathematicians, clockmakers and artists who built it.

The second clock was dismantled in 1838. It has been displayed in the Decorative Arts Museum since 1924. The current clock, completed in 1840, incorporates parts of the earlier clock including several original figurines, and paintings by Tobias Stimmer who worked on the second clock.

After the presentation ends, you’re free to wander the cathedral. For an additional fee, climb the tower for panoramic city views.

Palais Rohan’s Three Must-See Museums

Just across the square from the cathedral, the elegant 18th-century Palais Rohan, often called “Little Versailles”, showcases lavish Baroque interiors, glittering gilding, and centuries of history in its three museums. Over the years it has housed nobility, monarchy, university offices, and now belongs to the municipality. With a Strasbourg City Card, admission to all three of its museums is only 8 €.

Palais Rohan courtyard — *The beautiful Baroque Palais Rohan houses three important museums.*

Musée des Beaux-Arts

The Fine Arts Museum features more than 2,000 works by European masters including Giotto, Raphael, Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Canaletto, Memling, Rubens, Van Dyck, Zurbarán, Goya, El Greco, Courbet, and Degas. The collection of paintings, sculpture, and religious art spans from the Middle Ages through the 20th century and is a must for classical art lovers.

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Perhaps the palace’s most enchanting space and my favorite, the Decorative Arts Museum includes the opulent apartments of the Prince-Bishop, designed between 1732 and 1742 by Robert de Cotte, First Architect to the King, for Cardinal Armand Gaston Maximilien de Rohan-Soubise. Though damaged during the French Revolution and again during World War II, the palace has been meticulously restored. Visitors today can wander through the Guards’ Room, the Bishops’ Hall, the King’s Chamber, the Assembly Hall, the library, the private chapel, and rooms decorated for Napoleon I and Empress Josephine. Marie Antoinette, Louis XV and Charles X were among the royalty who slept here.

Opulent bedroom for Napoleon 1 — *This cozy study was converted to a bedchamber for Napoleon I.*

Each of the stately palace rooms have signage in French and English explaining their use and describing the provenance of the furnishings and artworks. The tapestries, sumptuous furnishings, carved stucco and other materials are exceptional.

Hannong ceramic tureen and platter — The fanciful porcelain designed by Paul Hannong is a highlight at the Decorative Arts Museum.

Don’t miss the Paul Hannong ceramic and porcelain collection. From whimsical oversized cabbage-ware to ornate terrines shaped like a giant boar’s head and a large turkey, this is tableware fit for a king, or at least a Prince-Bishop, for whom they were designed. There are also playful platters of porcelain eggs and pickles that leave little space for actual food but are delightful to look at. The silver collection, with objects ranging from cutlery to liturgical vessels, is equally captivating.

astrolabe and clocks — *Spend time with the historic astrolabe, clocks and globes on display. They’re truly extraordinary.*

The Decorative Arts Museum is a treasure trove of art, furnishings, tableware, silver, books, manuscripts, religious objects, and other remarkable and well-preserved antiques like the astrolabe, clocks and globes in the museum’s collections. It is the perfect place for a history buff or would-be time traveller to spend an afternoon.

Musée Archéologique

The Archaeological Museum is the oldest museum in Strasbourg. Housed on the Palais Rohan’s lower level, it holds an extensive collection of artifacts dating from prehistoric times from to the first centuries of the Middle Ages; the period ruled by the Frankish Merovingian dynasty which lasted from the 5th century until 751. This is one of France’s most important archeological collections and we were sorry to miss it on this visit.

More Museums Worth Visiting

The Historical Museum of the City of Strasbourg offers an excellent overview of the city’s origins and development. Curious about how Strasbourg was founded, who lived here, and what daily life looked like in its earliest centuries? You’ll find the answers here.

Housed in a building originally used for butcher stalls, the museum’s exhibits cover 900 years of Strasbourg history and include everything from military artifacts to pottery. Most displays feature English-language signage and there are audio guides available.

Exhibit of a building at Strasbourg City Museum — *Interactive and static exhibits tell the story of Strasbourg’s fascinating history at the City Museum.*

There are also interactive exhibits that younger visitors will love. Try on a medieval helmet to feel its weight or lift one of the stone balls once used as cannon projectiles. The museum also houses an array of medieval weaponry and full suits of armor for both soldiers and horses, always a crowd pleaser! The museum was closing before we got through all the galleries, but we will be back!

The Museum of the Cathedral’s Treasures was closed during our stay due to a national holiday. The Alsatian Museum is closed for renovation at least through the end of the year.

As always, check websites for current hours and prices. Many museums offer discounts with the Strasbourg City Card.

Locks and Landmarks

A Batorama boat tour is a relaxing way to experience Strasbourg. Departing from a pier on the River Ill just a short walk from the Strasbourg Cathedral, the company offers several itineraries and operates both open and closed boats, depending on the weather. We had a closed boat due to threatening rain, though an open-top boat would have offered better views of the city’s landmarks during the 70-minute cruise.

Headphones provide commentary in multiple languages, including English, French, German, and Italian, as you glide through Strasbourg’s scenic and historic areas. Buy tickets in advance, especially on weekends and holidays. Tours often sell out.

Locks on the River Ill in Petit France — *You’ll pass through locks in Petit France and learn a lot about this charming city on a Batorama boat tour.*

Our itinerary was the most comprehensive and included Petit France, Strasbourg’s most picturesque neighborhood. Known for its half-timbered houses, Petit France’s cobblestone streets are lined with cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. In medieval times, the area was home to tanners and slaughterhouses. The upper galleries of the buildings used to dry animal hides are still visible.

The area was derisively nicknamed “Petit France” after a hospital for Napoleonic soldiers being treated for syphilis was built here. The area’s notorious past is quite a contrast to its modern day charm.

The boat also passes through Neustadt, or “New Town,” built by the Germans in the 1800s to showcase their influence and affluence. Grand boulevards, stately colonial buildings, and expansive public spaces characterize Neustadt. It is the opposite of the narrow, winding streets of Petit France. The area significantly expanded Strasbourg’s geographic footprint.

Neustadt is home to lovely parks and key government buildings, including the Ministry of Justice, the Courthouse, and the National and University Library (BNU). The BNU is the second largest library in France and holds about 3 million books, documents, rare works, ancient manuscripts, coins, and maps.

Park and government buildings in Neustadt — *Stroll Neustadt’s grand boulevards and relax in one of the beautiful parks here.*

During the tour, the boat passes through several locks, providing a fascinating look at how boats are raised and lowered along the river. Along the way, you’ll enjoy beautiful views of Strasbourg’s historic architecture, covered bridges, gardens, and modern structures like the European Court of Human Rights. You’ll likely want to return to many of the places the boat passes. We did.

Take a Walking Tour

I like to take a walking tour in every new city I visit. It’s a great way to get to know a place and ideal for first-timers. Our guide, Halima, shared fascinating stories and local lore from architectural quirks to quaint customs. Fun fact: In the Middle Ages, heart-shaped cutouts in shutters signaled marriageable daughters within!

yellow building with blue shutters with heart cut outs — *Shutters with heart cutouts advertised daughters of marrying age in Medieval times.*

Halima also provided us with recommendations for restaurants, bakeries and bars. We had a spontaneous stop at a bakery along the way to buy freshly baked macaroons. Though GuruWalk is technically “free”, participants generally give the guide 15-20 € per person at the end of the tour.

Tiny Train Tours

Strasbourg’s tourist train takes two routes; one leaves in front of the Cathedral in the historic center, and the other goes through Neustadt. We found Strasbourg extremely walkable, often clocking more than seven miles a day, but the train is fun option for families or travelers with mobility concerns.

tiny tourist train — *All aboard! The Petite Tourist Train is fun for all ages* *and is a great option for those with mobility concerns.*

A word of caution: cyclists are everywhere, and bike lanes aren’t always obvious, so be alert! If you’re staying in the city center, plan to walk or use Strasbourg’s excellent public transit system. Leave your car in the hotel garage; street parking is nearly impossible, driving is stressful, and the city center is a pedestrian-only zone.

Sip and Savor

Strasbourg is in the center of one of France’s important wine- growing regions. The Grand Est is known primarily for white wines including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. Pinot Noir is the predominant red wine here. It is best suited to the climate and terroir.

woman with wine bottles — *There’s no need to leave the city to taste local wines and chat with winemakers.*

We had planned to drive to the countryside to visit wineries, but instead discovered Comptoir des Vignerons right in Gutenberg Place. The wineshop specializes in local wines and features a Vignerons du Jour program, or winemaker of the day, where a local winemaker pours and discusses their wines. For 8 €, you’ll sample five wines and chat with the vintner. Guided tastings (20 €) are also available. The shop is closed Sundays and Mondays.

Strasbourg also has its own locally brewed beer, Meteor, which you’ll find in many bars and restaurants.

Where to Eat: Try Our Favorite Tables

The culinary combination of German and French cuisine makes Strasbourg a seriously delicious dining destination. While there are plenty of international offerings, we focused on Alsatian cuisine, both traditional and innovative. Traditional dishes usually feature pork and sauerkraut, fish and sauerkraut, sausages, and hearty, meaty stews. Onion tarts, foie gras, charcroute garnie, veal kidney, and wild game are also popular Alsatian dishes. We ate most of them. Some of our favorite tables were:

Pompette: Small and elegant, the restaurant features locally-sourced dishes with a modern twist, like roasted endive with citrus to start and lamb with black olives for the main. Pompette is slang for tipsy!
Foundrefeu: We celebrated my husband’s birthday here with creative, vegetable- forward cuisine. Think mushroom mille-feuille with butternut cream.
Winstub Le Clou: Traditional, hearty Alsatian fare is served in a cozy atmosphere. We were surprised when the hostess sat another couple at our table, but we had a lovely evening with the English-speaking French couple from Normandy.
Restaurant Au Pont Corbeau: Popular with locals, expect classic Alsatian cuisine in a lively atmosphere. Dining here is also a communal experience. Chat with your neighbors! We met a nice Australian couple and three friends who work in the wine and hospitality industries. One happened to be bar manager at our hotel.
Vino Strada Restaurant: This is part wine bar, part restaurant. It’s got an Italian name, but the cooking is Alsatian and elegant. Beetroot with duck breast, figs and blackberries was an excellent starter. Our evening got livelier when a birthday group started a conga line through the restaurant!

Something Sweet

Judging by the sheer number of patisseries and bakeries in Strasbourg, Alsatians must have a collective sweet tooth. Try Patisserie Avelina for exquisite cakes and baked goods. L’Atelier 116 was also good but very crowded and there’s always a line.

cookies and baked goods — *It’s easy to satisfy a sweet tooth in Strasbourg*! *Gingerbread and other seasonal sweets were already in the shops in early November.*

Where to Stay: Art Deco Delight

Strasbourg offers hotels at every price point, but we loved Maison Rouge, a Marriott Autograph Collection property housed in a historic Art Deco building. It’s full of character and within walking distance of nearly everything we were interested in seeing.

The service at Maison Rouge was exceptional. Hotel staff were gracious, knowledgeable and incredibly helpful. On our first night, we were unsure how to get to the restaurant we had booked, and Paloma, the front desk associate who had checked us in, offered to walk us there on her way home. It was a generous gesture that we genuinely appreciated, along with her tips for navigating the city!

Why Go to Strasbourg in November?

Cathedral at night — *Strasbourg’s iconic cathedral lights up the November night.*

Visiting in early November turned out to be ideal. Hotel rates were still reasonable, the weather was cool but pleasant, and we could explore the city at a relaxed pace. River-cruise groups had begun to arrive, but nothing like the peak-season surge locals described. If you want to enjoy Strasbourg’s holiday spirit without the Christmas Market crowds, a late autumn visit offers the perfect blend of atmosphere and breathing room.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

This article, photographs, and all materials published by TravelTawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a commission at no cost to you. Thank you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream!

An Afternoon with Ötzi the Iceman: International Man of Mystery

He’s an international man of mystery, media darling, and a murder victim. Ötzi the Iceman was brutally killed about 5,300 years ago and is the oldest known natural human mummy in Europe. A German couple hiking the Ötzel Alps discovered his body on September 19, 1991 on a glacier in Northern Italy about 100 meters across the Austrian border. That’s how he got his nickname. We spent an afternoon with Ötzi, in Bolzano Bozen not far from his birthplace in the Dolomites.

*Ötzi ‘s final resting place is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen, not far from where he was born and where his body was discovered 5,300 years later.*

Custody Battle for Mummy

After a brief custody dispute (both Austria and Italy laid claim to Ötzi) research on his mummified body began at Innsbruck University in Austria. He has found a final resting place at Italy’s South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen. Today, the entire museum is dedicated to Ötzi and life in the Copper Age. Visitors can peek through a small glass window to view Ötzi’s body, which is kept in a climate controlled, sealed vault. Be patient, there is always a line to see him.

*Ötzi*‘*s body is preserved in a viewable, climate- controlled vault but signage asks visitors to be respectful and refrain from photographing his remains. This acrylic model is provided for photos.*

*Scientists have created a remarkably life-like reconstruction of Ötzi, one of the world’s most fascinating murder victims and Europe’s oldest natural human mummy.*

A 3-D reconstruction gives a surprisingly lifelike depiction of what Ötzi would have looked like. He was believed to be 45 years old when he met his untimely death. At 5’3’’ and 110 lbs., he was short and stocky, but muscular. He wasn’t in the pink of health when his life was cut short, though. He had tooth decay, parasites and H. pylori, which would have caused numerous gastric issues. Scientists were able to retrieve and identify the contents of his stomach which included his last meal. He ate red deer meat, unleavened bread, fruit, and an herb called hop hornbeam. He likely took that to ease his tummy troubles. His hair had high levels of arsenic and copper particles, possibly from smelting copper, which may also have contributed to his ill health. None of these things killed him though.

*Ötzi*‘s goat hide leggings, bearskin hat, and other garments were remarkably well preserved after 5,300 years entombed in a glacier.

*Ötzi ‘s leggings would have extended into his shoes for warmth and protection from the snow and rain.*

What He Wore

The garments and accessories Ötzi was wearing when he met his demise were remarkably well preserved by his years of glacial entombment. His lambskin loincloth, goat hide coat and leggings, and bearskin hat are all on exhibit, along with what remains of his shoes with their cow hide laces. His shoes are really something to see. They were made from bearskin soles, deer hide uppers and tree bark netting, and were lined with grasses that acted like socks and cushioned his feet for the long treks he made through the mountains.

*Bearskin, deerskin, tree bark netting and hay-like grasses went into the construction of his shoes. Here you can see the structural foundation as well as what remains of his well worn shoes.*

Even his deerskin quiver and arrows survive. Because of the variety of animal skins used in his clothing and accessories, researchers believe that Ötzi kept and herded domesticated animals like sheep, goats and cows. Domestication of these animals was earlier than was previously thought, thanks to research done on Ötzi.

*Scientists discovered blood, not his own, on Ötzi* ‘s goat skin coat, adding to the mystery around his murder.

He also had a grass cape with him, either to wear as a raincoat or to sleep upon. Maybe both. Displays show how all of his garments fit together to protect him from the elements. It was pretty complicated!

*Drawings indicate how Ötzi would have dressed. Fitting each item together was a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.*

Ötzi Liked Ink

Ötzi is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the oldest person on earth to sport tattoos. His body is adorned with 61 of them made by rubbing charcoal dust into fresh wounds. These are certainly not the elaborate tattoos seen today. They’re mostly crosses and lines on his back, ribs, wrist and legs and may have been used for pain relief.

*The copper head on Ötzi*‘*s axe came from far-away Tuscany, which meant he traveled widely or traded, or both.*

Researchers have been able to piece together a great deal about the life and times of Ötzi the Iceman based on his clothing and the items found alongside him. He had a copper-bladed axe, which would have made him a high-status individual. The copper was from Tuscany, quite a distance away, so he traveled or traded, or both. He also had a flint dagger from the Lake Garda area, arrows, incomplete shafts and longbow, plus a net. Ötzi was definitely a hunter.

*The articles found near his body give us great insights into Ötzi* ‘*s lifestyle and activities. A backpack frame, shown here, was one of many personal belongings discovered with him in 1991.*

He had several wooden tools used to fashion clothes or utensils. He would have needed these to make repairs or construct needed items on his long treks. He also had a birch bark cylinder likely used to carry hot embers for quickly starting a cook fire and a complex fire-starting kit. These would have been handy on his journeys for cooking and for warmth. Ötzi has shown us that people traveled more widely than previously believed during the Copper Age, trading goods, services and knowledge.

*Visitors can examine Ötzi ‘s clothing, weapons, even the contents of his last meal, and learn what scientists have finally determined was his cause of death.*

Who or What Killed Ötzi ?

Researchers know what the iceman wore and ate and likely what he did for a living, but mystery surrounded his murder until 2012. Was he struck in the head with a blunt object? Stabbed? Shot in the back with an arrow? Was there a fight? Or all of these things? Scrappy Ötzi was definitely a hunter and a fighter. Blood from four different individuals was found on his dagger, coat and on one of his arrows which could mean a battle. He had several broken ribs that had healed before death, and he had been struck in the head. His brain had evidence of clots which could have been from blunt force trauma that then caused stroke or embolism. He also had stab wounds on his hands. The likeliest cause of death was the arrow lodged in his left shoulder. Finally, in 2012, researchers agreed that Ötzi had bled to death from the arrow wound.

*Ötzi and the mysteries surrounding him have made him a popular media subject across the globe.*

Ötzi’s discovery made quite a stir worldwide and was also marked by controversy. Once the significance of the find was reported, numerous people claimed to have found the body. The museum has an exhibit detailing much of the media coverage around him. He is so scientifically important; the museum has a specific evacuation plan for him should a crisis arise that could damage him. He has opened a window into life in the Copper Age that would have remained closed, had those hikers not stumbled upon him back in 1991.

*Helmut and Erika Simon, a German couple, were credited with finding Ötzi s body on the Tisenjoss Pass, just over the Austrian border in Italy, while hiking in the Otzel Alps.*

Otzi’s Lineage Continues

In 2012 Ötzi’s genome was sequenced using a bit of his hip bone, revealing he had brown eyes, type O blood, a predisposition to heart disease, was lactose intolerant, and may have had Lyme disease. His maternal line is extinct, but his paternal lineage is intact. In 2013, 19 Austrian men from a group of 3,700 tested, shared a unique genetic mutation with him. Scientists believe that his descendants would have settled between the Dolomites and Sardinia. His genetic profile has much in common with Sardinians today. Scientists suspect that there are likely more of his descendants alive in Sardinia today.

Our afternoon with Ötzi was fascinating and we’d highly recommend a visit if you’re in the Bolzano Bozen area.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Liguria: The Coastal Magic of Camogli, Portofino and the Cinque Terre

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline. Think stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

***Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.***

Ligurian Coast

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. Though we’d gotten suggestions from La Spezia to Santa Margherita Ligure, we settled on Camogli.

Midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north, and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the exceedingly popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns, Camogli made sense as a base from which to explore this stretch of Italy’s coastline.

We planned to drive to the Ligurian Coast from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps.

**Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line** **the seafront in Camogli.**

Stuck

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels. The Italians call them galleries. We quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

I needed that distraction for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Find your accommodations here!

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

*Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool.*

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant, and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

Dinner With a View

We had phoned ahead from the tunnel, and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. After admiring the sea view, we tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable. Stuffed, we headed upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

***The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.***

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

***You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.***

***These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.***

Famous Fish Fry

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!

The early festivals used smaller cookware, but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. In 2025, they served three tons of fish fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil. In all, volunteers prepared 30,000 portions. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

The festival is free but hungry attendees are asked for a 6 Euro charitable donation. The fish fry is in the Guiness Book of World Records as the largest in the world.

Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.

Around Town

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare. It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

*You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!*

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that.

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

Camogli has a scenic harbor area and basilica to explore. The popular public beach is perfect for relaxing in the sunshine. Bring aqua socks. Beaches in this area are covered in stones, not sand.

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

Camogli basilica looms over the public beach — *Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm!*

San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

*The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.*

A Day Trip to the Abbey

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Pack your aqua socks. Many beaches in Liguria are covered with stones rather than sand. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet.

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach. Both were busy but we didn’t eat at either. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

*The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.*

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre: Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns.

It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess.

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

Riomaggiore was an exercise in patience and ours wore thin quickly. We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, until we couldn’t wait anymore. The highly touted charms of Riomaggiore were lost on us. We got on a train heading north to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t wor*k!

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised us to get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south.

On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

What to See

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants, and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were plenty of tourists, which we expected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden we had planned to visit was closed. We’d checked the website for Museo del Parco but that’s the way things are here sometimes.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

**The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.**

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake.

This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” He didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. When I showed the conductor our tickets, he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

*Wait until the exact time your train is due to board or you could inadvertently wind up in Genoa, like we did!*

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early. Ever.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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What To Do In Bilbao: The Basque Country’s Exciting Capital Has So More Than the Guggenheim To See

I’ve met more than a few people traveling in Spain who take a day trip to Bilbao to visit the Guggenheim Museum and then they leave. The museum is incredible both for its collections and Frank Geary’s astounding architecture and you should definitely go, but there is so much more to experience in the Basque region’s largest and most important city.

*There is art everywhere in Bilbao! To enjoy it all you’ll need more than a day in this vibrant Basque city.*

After a quiet stay on the beautiful Costa Verde, we felt the energy of this revitalized city on arrival. We dropped our car with the valet at the centrally located Hotel Ercilla Bilbao and took a walk around to get our bearings. We couldn’t help but notice the public art, pedestrian only streets, and parks everywhere we went.

Plan your trip to Bilbao!

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

*Architect Frank Geary’s spectacular design has come to represent the city of Bilbao since the Guggenheim opened in 1997.*

We planned a four-day stay in this vibrant city. Like most visitors, the Guggenheim was at the top of our list, so we booked tickets for our first full day in Bilbao. Tickets are timed and the museum is the number one attraction in the city. Buy your tickets online as soon as you have your dates and get them for as early in the day as you can. There is much to see, so book lunch at one of the two restaurants in the museum and you can stay all day. Bistro Guggenheim Bilbao is the more casual of the two, while the Michelin one-star Nerua offers a fine dining option.

*Jeff Koon’s* Puppy *serves as the official greeter at the Guggenheim Bilbao.*

Great Art Outside

We could see the top of the iconic building as we headed towards the Guggenheim, enjoying Bilbao’s bustling streets as we walked the short distance from our hotel. We spotted Puppy by Jeff Koons, waiting out front. People were vying for a turn to take selfies and group pictures in front of the enormous floral sculpture.

The building is spectacular and even more so in person. There are monumental masterworks to experience even before you enter the museum. Louise Bourgeois’ giant spider called Maman, Daniel Buren’s Arcos Rojos and Anish Kapoor’s Tall Tree are all outside the museum, along with the fog “sculpture” by Fujiko Nakaya that creeps out from under the building every hour.

Richard Serra

The first enormous gallery you’ll encounter inside is dedicated to Richard Serra’s site-specific work The Matter of Time. His massive steel structures spiral, snake, and defy gravity. Walking through the huge sculptures can be vertiginous, claustrophobic, even isolating, though you are hardly alone here. Feel the texture of the steel, which changes, as does the temperature. Make some noise! People were whistling and yelling to create echoes inside the sculptures. It was a sensory experience on all levels.

There’s a viewing deck above the gallery where you can take in the entire exhibition at once, something you can’t really do on the ground level. It’s fascinating to watch people going into the work, standing in the center of some of the larger pieces, moving in a single file through the narrow spaces in others, and just wandering around and enjoying it all. I could’ve spent the day just in that gallery.

*The Matter of Time appeals to all ages!*

How It’s Made

Steps from the sculpture is a smaller gallery that has models of each piece, information about Serra’s work and process, and details about the steel’s origins. We learned that only gravity is keeping these gigantic sheets of steel upright and in place! There are photos and information about other works Serra has created–many, like this one, site-specific. I was particularly taken with the history of a piece designed for the City of New York which the artist took back, after the city wanted to move the work.

Special Exhibitions

After you’ve spent some time with Richard Serra’s installation, head upstairs to the special exhibitions and the museum’s excellent permanent collection. Highlights during our visit included an extensive Miro exhibition and Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room— there was a line to enter this small room, but it was worth the wait to step inside the enchanting world she created!

Read about current exhibitions here.

The museum focuses on art from 1945 on—all modern and contemporary pieces, primarily by American artists. Works by many of the artists you’d expect, including Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Ellsworth Kelly, Sol Lewitt, Rothko, Oldenburg, Jackson Pollock, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Willem de Kooning, and their contemporaries are all here, along with works by other less familiar artists.

Our day at the Guggenheim Bilbao was definitely a highlight of our travels through the North of Spain.

Mercado de la Ribera

*Take time to explore the oldest covered market in the world– and have a little lunch.*

There are other iconic structures in this Basque city, some with significantly more history than the Guggenheim. Built in 1929, the Mercado de la Ribera (Erriberako Merkatura in Basque)is the largest covered market in the world and features beautiful stained-glass windows and original iron works throughout. In the heart of the old city, it is the perfect place for a quick, casual meal, snack or drink.

The ground level is a massive food hall offering just about everything—vermouth bars, coffee bars, beer bars, tapas bars, and sweets shops! We went on a busy Saturday afternoon and it was really crowded, but the lines went fast. Look around to see what appeals, order, and then grab a seat at a communal table. This is food hall dining at its best.

Upstairs you’ll find purveyors of fresh fish, produce, meats, cheeses, spices—all the things that made me wish I had a kitchen in Bilbao. There’s also a cooking school. If you’d like to take classes, reserve online here.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon when we set out to explore to the market and old town and it felt like everybody in Bilbao was outside enjoying the fine day. We stopped at the lively and bustling Plaza Mayor, full of cafes and shops, as you’d expect, along with kids playing soccer (and subsequently soccer balls breaking glasses), people at tables and sitting on the ground having tapas and wine, and everyone generally having a lovely time! We saw a bridal group in tutus with the maid of honor hoisting a megaphone making regular announcements—all fun to experience! Plaza Mayor is the perfect place to stop and have a drink or a coffee—and people watch.

Bilbao’s Cathedral and Church of San Anton

While we were in the old town, we visited the beautiful Cathedral, as we do in every European city. Bilbao’s cathedral, Gothic in style, is dedicated to Saint James or Santiago, the city’s patron saint.

There’s also the much smaller Church of Saint Anton, the oldest building in Bilbao, right next to the market. Purchase a combo ticket at the Cathedral so you can visit both splendid sanctuaries. The entrance fee includes an audio guide available in seven languages, including English.

We took a 20-minute walk through an interesting and diverse neighborhood to reach the market/old town area and walked back another route, through an upscale shopping area. These very different experiences showed us two opposing sides to this Basque city.

*An American President and a musican on a busy shopping street.*

Beaux Art Museum

*Rainy days and museums were made for each other!*

Where better to spend a rainy day than a museum—or two? The Fine Arts Museum (also called Beaux Arts Museum) is the second most visited museum in Bilbao. They have an impressive collection of contemporary art, special exhibitions, and European art from the 16^th, 17th and 18th centuries.

You’ll find many well-known Spanish artists like Goya, Picasso, and Velazquez, plus others you may not have heard of, with Basque artists known for their mostly modern and contemporary works in this category. We bought tickets onsite, though if you are visiting during busy summer or holiday times, it is best to get tickets for everything online in advance.

ITSAMuseum

Also known as the Maritime Museum, ITSAMuseum surprised us by the scope of its offerings. Naturally, the focus of the museum is the sea, which has created a livelihood for so many in the area. In addition to all the seafaring/maritime themed exhibitions, artworks and even a surfing exhibit, we saw a terrific video and exhibit on Bilbao’s history and the enormous impact that the Guggenheim Museum has made on the growth and revitalization of the city.

The video also focused on the role Basque culture has played in the city’s history and development, the importance of shipping and trade, and what the future may look like for the area. You’ll see what a sad, industrial wasteland Bilbao was not so long ago, and what it took to become the beautiful, vital city that it is now.

Take a Break

There’s a bar next door if you’d like a drink and a snack. While we were visiting, they were celebrating Earth Day there. There was a band and lots of people, including families with kids, singing along to Basque songs, drinking beer (not the kids), and having a good time.

Azkuna Zentroa– Cultural Center

*Surprising art and architecture await just inside Bilbao’s Cultural Center.*

The Cultural Center –Azkuna Zentroa is worth a visit. The façade is all that remains of the original building but the Philippe Starke- designed interior is the real draw. There are three separate structures under one roof and within the walls. Eight hundred different columns were created for the building and from those, the architect chose 47 to become a part of the edifice. Each one is unique and designed from different materials.

*Free public art is on exhibit on the ground floor.*

There is art displayed in various spaces on the ground floor between the columns. Several pieces were by an artist whose work we had seen at the Fine Arts Museum. The Bilbao public library is also in the building and has free art exhibitions in addition to being a lending library. We saw a comic-themed show. There are also some small shops selling arts and artisanal goods produced by local artists and an information center on the ground floor. The building and the library are free to visit.

On the top floor, there’s a gym and a public swimming pool available to everyone. Look up and you’ll see the swimmers overhead—the pool bottom is transparent.

Practicalities: Where to Stay and Delicious Places to Eat

Ercilla Bilbao

Like every large city there are lodging options at all price points in Bilbao. We stayed at the Autograph Collection Ercilla Bilbao, which is in a great location right in the center of the city on a pedestrian shopping street. It is walking distance to all the major sites and there are plenty of restaurants and shops nearby. Our room was spacious (Vintage King) and overlooked a courtyard, so it was very quiet. Disclosure—I have status with Marriott/Bonvoy that gives me perks like room upgrades and free breakfast, so I often choose a hotel from the brand.

*Be sure to book a table at Ercilla’s rooftop bar, even if you’re a guest.*

The Ercilla has a great rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city—perfect for an aperitivo or an after-dinner drink! They also have light fare available. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the bar but you should make a reservation.

Restaurants We Loved

We ate extremely well in Bilbao—everywhere in the Northern Spain, in fact. As in any Spanish city, it is important to book a table unless you’re having stand up tapas. Here’s where we went in Bilbao—all different and all excellent!

La Vina del Ensanche

We had a wonderful, casual dinner our first night in Bilbao at La Vina del Ensanche. They offered a prefix menu for €45 per person along with the regular menu. We had an enormous plate of beautiful Iberian ham, fresh fish, vegetable croquettes, and two desserts.

The wine was not expensive and selections were almost all Spanish with plenty of local choices. Service was attentive and very helpful describing different dishes and assisting with wine selection. They also had a little shop with specialty food and wine you could buy to take away. This would be a great place for provisions if you had a kitchen!

Viejo Zorti

We also had an excellent dinner at Viejo Zorti, a popular upscale restaurant with a long history. We had shrimp with garlic to start, followed by a whole turbo which they presented at the table with Pil Pil sauce—you’ll see that sauce everywhere! It was a delicious meal but pricey, which we expected because the fish was “price by the kilo” but so fresh and worth every euro. The wine list was extensive and again, service was attentive and extremely helpful.

Bistro Salitre

Bistro Salitre is a lively, buzzy place catering to a younger, hipper crowd than Viejo Zorti. They had both traditional Basque dishes and updated versions of classics. It was fun on a Saturday night and they had music, too!

Serantes II

It can be hard to find a restaurant that’s open on Sunday night, so we were happy to have Serantes II reserved. This one also specializes in fish dishes and was recommended by the hotel. It was quiet and elegant and a nice respite after a day of touring.

Find your Bilbao accommodations!

We’ll Be Back

Bilbao was a city of surprises and there was more I wanted to see and do there than we could accomplish, even in four days. I’m excited to return to this beautiful Basque city of outstanding art, notable culture, rich history and exemplary cuisine!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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How to Explore Rome’s Ancient Wonders and (Mostly) Avoid the Crowds

Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually. Last year, a jubilee year in the Catholic Church, was a record-breaker for tourism with nearly 23 million visitors and almost 53 million overnight stays.

Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. If this is your first time visiting, you’ll understandably want to see both but Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see?

*The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.*

Get a Pass

The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums.

The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days.

Roma Pass

The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass. Decide which sites you’re interested in and pick the pass that offers access to those.

Get ready for your trip to Rome!

The Baths of Diocletian

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.

*The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.*

*We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.*

This museum should be on your list even without a special exhibit. Built in the 4^th century, these are the largest and among the best preserved of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. The Baths are easy to reach. They are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s main train station—Roma Termini.

*Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.*

*A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.*

*Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.*

If you happen to visit the in the evening, walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light. It’s a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.

*The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.*

Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli

In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.

*The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.*

*This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.*

National Roman Museum

Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.

*Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.*

*Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.*

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!

Find Rome’s best hotels!

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

*Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.*

Near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.

*Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.*

Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.

*These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.*

*This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.*

*These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.*

Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2^nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.

*The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.*

*The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.*

Palazzo Altemps

*This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.*

Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15^th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997. I am always surprised at how uncrowded the Palazzo is.

*Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.*

The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.

*The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.*

*Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.*

The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.

*Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.*

Dragon Collection

The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.

*The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.*

Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.

Crypta Balbi

You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.

*The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.*

*Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.*

*Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.*

Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31.

Largo di Torre Argentina

Just around the corner from Crypta Balbi is the Largo di Torre Argentina. Here’s where you’ll find more interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point. Donations are welcome at the non-profit sanctuary, even if you aren’t interested in a new feline family member.

An Ancient Architectural Wonder

*Don’t miss the Pantheon. It’s one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.*

The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures. It has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. Ticket prices increased from 5 to 7 Euro July 1, 2026 and are available online and onsite. Be prepared to wait if you haven’t purchased in advance.

*Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.*

We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.

*Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.*

The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

*Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.*

After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.

*Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.*

Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Reservations are essential as it’s popular with locals and tourists.

The Colosseum

I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without, just look for the signs. Note: You do not need a guide to enter. Beware of unscrupulous people hanging around outside who will tell you otherwise. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.

*Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.*

*There are rules, though apparently not always observed.*

You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade. Wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.

The Forum

The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.

*Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.*

Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.

*Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.*

Lunchtime or La Pranza

All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at 40, Largo Ricci. While we expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites, we were pleasantly surprised by both the quality of the meal and the price.

*We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.*

Head Out of Town

Take a trip just outside the city to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea. Now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded.

We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with interior wall paintings still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.

These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.

PS If you’re looking for restaurant recommendations near the historic center or want to know where to go for gelato, reach out!

If You Go

We usually stay at the Grand Flora, a wonderful historic hotel near the Borghese Gardens at the top of the Via Veneto. They have a marvelous rooftop with views over the city where breakfast is served. It’s fun to get a drink in the bar and bring it upstairs for sunset. Watch the lights go on at St. Peter’s as the sun goes down.

Public transportation is inexpensive and easy to use. Buses, trams and subways will take you to the far reaches of the city. You don’t need a car in Rome and driving can be chaotic. Parking is expensive. Be aware of pickpockets on public transportation, as you would in any large city. Taxis and Ubers are also convenient and easy to use. Be sure to use only licensed taxis– they’re usually white.

There are so many enchanting places to explore in Rome. Use the links below to get the most updated information about some of the places mentioned in this article:

Vatican, Colosseum, Crypta Balbi, Baths of Diocletian, Archeological Museum Pass.

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

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Fun, Free, and Almost Free, Things to Do in Rome

Lagoon in the Villa Borghese Gardens in Rome

Heading to Rome? You won’t be alone. Last year, the Eternal City expected to host 35 million visitors, up from 13 million in 2024. It was a Jubilee Year in the Catholic Church—a celebration with events and activities throughout the year and a new, American Pope. The Jubilee is over but it will still be very crowded in Rome and prices for everything will be high. Go anyway.

To help you keep costs down while still enjoying the magic of Rome, I’ve put together a list of some of my favorite free (and almost free) things to do in the Eternal City.

Visit the Vatican

St. Peter's Basilica in Rome — *You must visit St. Peter’s Basilica at least once.*

Yes, there will be crowds, but how can you visit Rome and not see St. Peter’s? Entry to the Basilica and crypt is always free and tickets are not required. Lines are shorter early in the morning but there are always lines. You can also attend mass at St. Peter’s but be on time and dress appropriately. Shoulders and knees must be covered or you’ll risk being denied entry.

The Basilica is closed during the Pope’s Wednesday public audience until 1 p.m. The Sistine Chapel, Vatican Museums and Gardens are not free, but it is worth it. Order tickets now for a summer visit if you haven’t already!

Get ready for your trip to Rome!

Meet the Pope

*The Pope speaks from his balcony every Sunday but you could get lucky and see him in St. Peter’s Square.*

Every Wednesday morning (except in July and important Church feast days) the Pope holds a general audience for thousands of well-wishers either outside in the piazza in front of St. Peter’s or in the nearby auditorium. Tickets are free. Write to the Pontifical North American College pnac.org no later than two weeks before you’d like to attend, but as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

Papal Audience Tickets

Collect your tickets in person at PNAC offices near the Piazza Navona on the Tuesday before your visit. Newlyweds can apply to sit in the special Sposi Novelli section near the Holy Father. The audience is general seating but try to get an aisle seat for the best chance of an encounter with the Pope.

Be warned, it was chaotic when we went to an audience in the auditorium. People were clambering over chairs (and other people) to try to shake the Pope’s hand. Go early as you will have to pass through security.

Take a Walk in Rome’s Borghese Gardens

*Rome’s Borghese Gardens are full of fountains, sculpture and plenty of places to sit and relax.*

Located at the top of the Via Veneto, these beautiful gardens are to Rome what Central Park is to New York City. Once the private parklands of the powerful Borghese family, they’ve been open to the public since 1903. There are fountains, sculptures, and the Orolgio al Aqua del Pincio—a water powered clock from 1867 that’s still ticking along!

Orlogio al Aqua del Pincio Water clock in Rome's Borghese Gardens — *This water-powered clock has been keeping time since 1867.*

Bring a picnic and enjoy the views over the lagoon or pick a bench and people watch—it’s the perfect place for it. There’s a dog park, playing fields, even a riding rink where you can admire the equestrian skills of riders putting their horses through their paces.

So Much to Do

There are plenty of things to do in the Gardens of the Villa Borghese. Or you can just relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. Weekends are busy with families out enjoying the day and sometimes there are special events in the park. We came across a chocolate festival on a visit here. Very tasty!

*Rent a bike, a trike or a boat in the Borghese Gardens for more family fun.*

For a small fee, you can rent a boat, a bicycle or a kart, or ride the carousel. The world-renowned Galleria Borghese is here, too, galeriaborghese.beniculturi.it with its collection of works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Titian and other masters. The museum has a private sculpture garden, too. It is not free but absolutely worth a visit and must be booked in advance online.

*The Museo Canonica is one of* the eight free City of Rome Museums.

The Pietro Canonica Museum museocanonica.it/en which features the sculptor’s work, is also in the park and because it is a City of Rome Museum, is free.

Art, Archeology, and History for Free

*Rome’s free city museums feature fine art, antiquities, fossils and ancient artifacts.*

The City of Rome’s eight free museums are sure to delight and entertain most visitors. These small museums present everything from fine art to fossils, and ancient Egyptian artifacts to Napoleonic family heirlooms. They each focus on a specific area.

*The Napoleonic Museum is free and worth a visit to see the Bonaparte family’s art and personal belongings, many with historical relevance.*

In no particular order, the free Comune di Roma Museums include: Napoleonic Museum (a grand palazzo with art and belongings from generations of the Bonaparte family), Museo delle Mura (archeology museum inside the Aurelian Walls), Pietro Canonica Museum (the sculptor’s works exhibited in “the little fortress”–his home and studio), Casal de’ Pazzi Museum (archeology), Carlo Bilotti Museum (contemporary art), Museo della Memoria Garibaldina (Italian history), Giovanni Barracco Museum (ancient Middle Eastern arts and artifacts and Classical Greek sculpture), and Villa Massenzio (Imperial Roman villa on the Appia Antica).

*You’ll rarely fight crowds at Rome’s smaller, less known museums.*

Visit museiincomuneroma.it for details on each of these small treasure- filled museums. Not only are they free, but in my experience, and I’ve visited almost all of them, they are rarely crowded.

Explore Rome’s Neighborhoods

Villa Torlonia Gardens — *Leave the center of the city and explore Rome’s vibrant and interesting neighborhoods.*

There is a lot more to explore in Rome than the Centro Storica, the city’s historic center, though of course you’ll spend time there, especially if this is your first visit. Head out to the upscale Nomentana neighborhood and enjoy another lovely park at the Villa Torlonia museivillatorlonia.it/en.

*The gardens surrounding the Villa Torlonia are open to the public and one of the few “English” gardens in Rome.*

This is one of the few sprawling English-style gardens in Rome and it is free to enter. We have seen yoga classes, kids playing soccer, picnickers, and people just relaxing in this lovely green space. There are also sculptures and a grand obelisk in the park to enjoy.

*You can visit the Villa Torlonia, Mussolini’s former home, for free on the first Sunday of the month as part of the Domenica al Museo program.*

Mussolini Lived Here

Mussolini and his family made their home at the Villa Torlonia from 1925-1943. He rented the VIlla for one lira a year, which is less than you’ll pay to enter the Villa, now a museum. The ticket also includes entry to the Little Owl House and a contemporary art gallery on the grounds. Mussolini’s underground bunker requires a separate ticket and has more limited hours.

Owl House at Villa Torlonia in Rome — *The art-filled Casa delle Civette is included with admission to the Museo Villa Torlonia.*

After your visit to the park and villa, go around the corner to my favorite gelateria- Guttilla Alta Gelateria. It’s not free but costs less than five euro for a three-scoop cone topped with panna (cream) and a cookie!

ice cream cones from the gelato shop Guttilia — *Take a break and enjoy a gelato!*

There are many neighborhoods outside the city center that all have something enriching to offer from markets to museums. Rome’s public transportation system is inexpensive and makes it easy to get around. We use it frequently, especially when we want to visit a more far flung location like Cine Citta, which while not free, I highly recommend if you’d like to do something completely different on your Roman holiday.

Unless you’re traveling at rush hour (and why would you?) buses and subways are convenient, affordable, and not terribly crowded.

Have a Wander

*The 19th century Galerie Sciarra is one of Rome’s “hidden” treasures. FInd it on Via Marco Minghetti.*

Wandering Rome’s cobbled streets is one of the great free pleasures of a visit here. You never know what you’ll find as you explore the streets of this beautiful city. We discovered this gorgeous frescoed late 19th galleria completely by accident. On a walk one afternoon we came up a college graduation (champagne corks popping) near the Colosseum, nuns and gladiators on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, and heard an impromptu acappella concert in a park as we made our way to the Scuderie del Quirinale.

*We walked by a college graduation celebration with champagne, laurel crowns and happy families.*

Treasures at Every Turn

Stroll around the Jewish Quarter or the Trastevere, which means across the Tiber. The Flaminia neighborhood has plenty of shops and a great contemporary art museum– MAXXI italia.it/en/lazio/rome/maxxi-museum. It’s free on the first Sunday of the month, as are many of the Musei di Comune di Roma that typically require tickets, including the Centrale Montemartini where you’ll find classic sculpture displayed in Rome’s first power plant, and the MACRO satellite with its multimedia and contemporary art. Both are in outlying neighborhoods, respectively in Ostiense and the Testaccio, a former slaughterhouse area that’s now home to top restaurants, local markets and museums, of course.

Free First Sundays in Museums

*The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art is part of the Sunday at the Museum Program.*

For a complete list of museums, monuments and sites that participate in Domenica al Museo, the free on first Sundays program, visit cultura.gov.it but be aware that special exhibitions will still require a paid ticket. A MIC pass will give you further discounts for ticketed museums and special exhibits, if you are eligible for it.

The Swiss Institute

The Swiss Institute, housed in a stunning early 20th century palazzo, often hosts free contemporary art exhibitions that change regularly, lectures and other events.

The gardens are spectacular, too. Check out current offerings here.

Pick a Piazza and Drink Up!

*Rome’s Piazza Navona is one of the city’s best known squares and home to museums, churches and restaurants as well as the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (four rivers).*

From the popular Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori to small, tucked away piazzetti, you’ll stumble upon plenty of places to ponder and people watch across the city. You’ll also find public fountains everywhere–usually good places to sit and relax a bit. There are 2,500 fountains within the city of Rome according to several sources.

Piazetta di Vicolo in Rome, Italy — *The Piazetta di Vicolo di San Simeone is one of the many small piazzas throughout the city. The Taverna Agape here is good for a casual meal.*

Coffee Culture

Wherever you find a piazza or piazzetta, there’s almost always a bar nearby for a quick espresso. Drink it standing up like the locals do, and if you stop into a popular place like Sant’ Eustachio, be ready to order or they’ll pass you by. An espresso is still only a few euro in most places. Remember, everything costs more if you sit at a table than if you stand at the bar and no milky drinks after breakfast please.

The Porter's Fountain in Rome, Italy — *The Fountain of the Porter dates back to 1580.*

Fun fact–Rome’s drinking fountains are often called “nasoni” because many are shaped like big noses. And yes, the water is safe to drink in all Roman fountains, so bring your water bottle and fill it up. It’s free.

See the Roman Forum for Free

*The Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most iconic modern structures.*

Often called the “wedding cake” or the “typewriter”, the Victor Emmanuel II Monument is one of Rome’s most recognizable modern structures. Located in the busy Piazza Venezia, it honors Italy’s first king and the unification of the country. Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is here.

Climb the white marble steps and head to the rear of the Altare della Patria–you’ll have a splendid view over the Forum for free. Do not sit on the stairs. You can take a glass elevator to the very top for even better views for a small fee. The ticket includes access to the Museum of the Risorgimento inside the monument and an audio guide.

The Imperial Forum and the Colosseum are not free but participate in the Domenica al Museo program (first Sundays free) but lines will be very long. An Architectural Pass or Roma Pass help save money and skip the long lines.

Window Shop

It costs nothing to admire the designer goods and fabulous fashions on display in the windows along the Via Condotti and Via del Babuino–if you can resist the temptation of Prada, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and other fashionista favorites. Via del Corso has lots of shopping, too, at a more affordable price point.

*Clever window displays always draw a crowd.*

If you’re looking to do more than admire the window displays, head over to the Via del Corso for more affordable shopping. Visit the Rinascente, Italy’s premier department store. Take a walk down the Via Tritone to find it. Check out the views from their rooftop bar/cafe.

The Spanish Steps

Spanish Steps and Trinita dei Monti — *Sooner or later, everyone stops by the Spanish Steps. Please do not sit down.*

It’s always free to walk up and down the Spanish Steps but do not sit down or you will risk a sizable fine. Head up the steps to Trinita dei Monti and enjoy the beautiful church and the views towards St. Peter’s Basilica. At the bottom of the stairs is the Fontana della Baraccia, Via del Corso, and the famous Via Condotti for upscale shopping

Cozy Up to Cats

*It’s hard to see them in this photo, but plenty of cats call Rome’s Largo di Argentina home.*

The Cat Sanctuary at Largo di Argentina is home to hundreds of feral felines that are fed, vaccinated, neutered, and adopted out by a legion of volunteers. The sanctuary, which was nearly evicted from these ancient Roman ruins in 2012, is free to visit but depends upon donations to continue its work. Stop by to admire the ancient Roman foundations and watch the kitties at play. Give them a few euro while you’re there.

More Free Art

*Step inside Rome’s “identical” churches to enjoy the art and see how different they actually are.*

Rome’s artistic treasures aren’t all in museums. Even some of the city’s smaller churches have amazing art which we’ve discovered by stopping into many that looked interesting to us. We’ve seen incredible sculpture, paintings, frescoes and tapestries by the great masters, simply by chance.

man blowing massive bubbles in Piazza di Popolo Rome, Italy — *This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.*

*This busker was hoping to pay off his dental bills.*

Piazza del Popolo

For another cultural treat, head over to the Piazza del Popolo. There’s always something entertaining going on there and it is also home to Rome’s so-called twin churches, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria di Montesanto. The baroque exteriors are quite similar, but once inside you’ll see that though beautiful, the churches are not at all identical.

*You can pay one euro each to illuminate Caravaggio’s spectacular Conversion of Saint Paul and Crucifixion of St. Peter. Both are in the north transept of th*e *Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo.*

Closer to the Aurelian Walls near the Fountain of Neptune and the Goddess of Rome Fountain, you’ll find the Basilica of Santa Maria del Popolo. The church has two of Caravaggio’s masterpieces along with works by other artists including Bernini and Raphael, and frescoes by Pinturicchio. Make it a point to visit here.

Visit Rome’s Official Cathedral. Hint: It is Not St. Peter’s!

Last year the Basilica of San Giovanni di Laterano celebrated its 1700th anniversary. It is one of the most important in Rome, the oldest in Europe and the only archbasilica in the world. It serves as the seat of the bishop of Rome aka, the Pope, and is the official Cathedral of Rome, not St. Peter’s. The Altar of the Holy Sacrament contains a table said to be used at the Last Supper.

After your visit, cross the plaza and climb the Scala Santa or sacred steps. This wood- encased marble staircase is believed to have been brought from the home of Pontius Pilate by St. Helene, Emperor Constantine’s mother. Pilgrims climb the 28 steps on their knees in a display of piety, and historically, to seek indulgence– the fast track to heaven. Important relics are kept here including fragments of the True Cross. Both St. John’s and the Pontifical Shrine of the Holy Stairs are free. Appropriate dress is required and no photos are allowed here.

Savor the Sunset

*The Pincio Terrazzo overlooking the Piazza del Poppolo is the perfect spot to watch the sun setting over St. Peter’s dome.*

One of the best and most popular places to view the setting sun in Rome is the Pincio Terrace in the Borghese Gardens overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. Locals and tourists stand shoulder to shoulder, waiting for the magic moment, oohing and aahing in languages from all over the world. It is the perfect way to end the day in this always enchanting and often surprising city.

*You’ll have plenty of company on the Pincio Terrace watching the sunset.*

This is by no means an exhaustive list of free things to do in Rome but will get you started. Have fun and share your discoveries with us in your comments or by email!

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express consent.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I
may earn a commission at no extra cost to you, and I
promise not to spend it all on gelato. Thank you!

O Canada! An Exciting Culinary Adventure in Southern Québec

It doesn’t normally take five days to drive from Québec City to Montreal, but we weren’t on an ordinary trip. Hosted by Bonjour Québec, we were on an epicurean journey. Our culinary experiences included a visit to a traditional sugar shack; farm-to-table dining where the farm was literally outside the door; visits to local wineries as well as an award-winning cidery; a monumental market with an educational farm and butterfly pavilion; a mountain hike and more. We only had one night in each location, but I’d strongly recommend settling in and enjoying Southern Quebec’s warm hospitality more fully. Here are some of the highlights:

Find the best accommodations in Southern Québec!

Wine and Cheese? Oui, Merci!

Canada may not be the first country that springs to mind for wine tourism. Perhaps it should. The Okanagan Valley in British Columbia has 284 wineries and 4,486 hectares of vineyards and Ontario is known for it’s world-class ice wine. Québec is Canada’s third largest wine region and a growing force in the country’s wine industry. It boasts 125 wineries and 775 Hectares dedicated to viticulture.

Our journey began with a visit to Vignoble Cotes du Gavet, a family-run, award-winning winery in Centre-du-Québec. The Marchand family has been making wines here since 2023 from vineyards that have been producing since 2000.

We sampled several of their wines including their pet nats (petillant naturel). I was particularly partial to the sparkling rose. The wines, under both Cotes du Gavet and Osez labels, are made using local hybrid grape varietals like Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Noir, Louise Swenson, Sabrevois, Petite Pearl and Crimson Pearl.

We enjoyed delicious cheeses from Fromagerie du Presbytère with our wine tasting. Their award-winning cheeses are produced nearby by the Morin family using milk from their dairy farm, Ferme Louis d’Or. They are aged in a former church, which retains a small chapel for worship. Our cheese platter featured Louis d’Or aged 24 and 36 months, Religieuse, Bleu d’Elizabeth and Laliberte. I’d love to visit their shop in St. Elizabeth du Warwick during one of their famous Friday summer picnics. They feature live music and are open to all.

Poutine!

Poutine is almost synonymous with Québec. We learned all about this beloved regional dish and its controversial beginnings at the Musee des Cultures du Monde. The iconic dish, which is traditionally made from French fries, gravy and cheese curds, has been adapted globally to reflect local tastes in nearly every corner of the world.

We had fun voting for our favorite origin story and most important ingredient using giant plastic French fries. The only thing missing here was actual poutine. I think we were all craving it at the end of the exhibit. The poutine-themed merch in the gift shop was impossible to resist and made up for missing the tasty dish.

Poutine: A Culture of all Flavors is a special exhibition and closes September 28. There is more to see at this small museum in the Centre-du-Québec.

The museum has ongoing exhibitions about world religions including a massive display of Barbie dolls illustrating wedding customs from many cultures.

Elevated Cuisine at Au Paturage

Au Paturage roughly translates to at the pasture. The restaurant is indeed surrounded by agricultural fields and flower- filled meadows. The elegant Au Paturage- Espaces Gourmand,

focuses on seasonal, locally sourced foods, including produce grown on their own three-acre farm, right outside the restaurant. Their cheese comes from Fromagerie Presbytère and meat from Ferme le Roy du Cerf. After a welcome cocktail, it was time to taste the vegetable-forward menu.

Prepared in the open kitchen by Chef Chloe Ouellet, the meal was spectacular. Each course was paired with wines from Québec, or interestingly, Eastern Europe. During summer, their dog-friendly 55-seat terrace is open. Be sure to make reservations.

The (Very) Old Mill

After a night at Hotel Montfort in Nicolet, it was time to move on to Bécancour. We began the day with a visit to the historic Moulin Michel, which has been grinding buckwheat into flour since 1743. The current mill has been operating in the Centre-du-Québec since 1774, after a fire destroyed the original mill.

Owner Philippe Dumas showed us the hydraulic mechanism and taught us about the fascinating history of buckwheat, the 18^th century mill, and the area. Fun fact, in lieu of cash, farmers left a portion of their grain as payment to use the mill, which was available to everyone.

Inside the historic mill building you’ll find a café and shop with delectable pastries, coffee and local products for sale. In the evening it becomes a bar.

During summer months, the sprawling grounds behind the mill are transformed into an entertainment venue. The Old Mill hosts a Blues Festival that draws 1,200 people to this town of 2,000.

Take a Hike or Bike

We needed to walk off all those goodies and did so with a guided hike at the beautiful Parc des Sommets. It’s a popular natural recreation area in Bromont in the Eastern Townships. In summer, the 150 kilometers of hiking trails draw outdoor lovers of all ages and abilities. It’s also a great place to bike. Let the kids try out the climbing wall or just enjoy a picnic here.

Southern Québec boasts six national parks perfect for outdoor endeavors like hiking, biking and kayaking during lazy summer days and crisp autumn ones. There are snow sports of all kinds when the winter weather beckons.

L’Espace Old Mill

Having met our exercise goal for the day, it was time for dinner at one of the toughest tables to get in the Eastern Townships; L’Espace Old Mill.

Inspiration and education are on the menu at this extraordinary restaurant that serves only what grows in its greenhouse and gardens (even in Québec’s frigid winter months) and what it can procure from nearby farms. We enjoyed a glass of local sparkling wine while we toured the expansive gardens with Executive Chef Eric Gendron before heading inside the airy dining room to feast on summer’s bounty.

The hyper-local focus is on the cuisine of the Brome-Missiquoi region here. Farmer/owner Jean-Martin Fortier came by and shared his vision for L’Espace Old Mill and their ongoing commitment to sustainable and regenerative farming, widely embraced by farmers in the Eastern Townships.

The Michelin Green Star-awarded restaurant’s menu is naturally vegetable-forward, though not vegetarian. I don’t think I have ever had peas or radishes that tasted so sweet and delectable! The wines poured to match the courses were also local. After a remarkable meal, we were off to nearby Hotel Chateau-Bromont, our lux and comfortable home for the night.

We had a beautiful bi-level room at Hotel Chateau-Bromont with a gorgeous view of the mountains. After our abundant breakfast, we explored the property, wishing we had more time to lounge around the spa and pool area. We need a return visit to take advantage of the wellness offerings here and revisit the beautiful nature park! Another dinner at Old Mill would be wonderful, too.

Beer and Brunch

It was time to move on to the charming town of Dunham and the Brasserie Dunham, which brews its own beer. We took a table in the outdoor beer garden and finally, poutine was on the menu! We couldn’t resist ordering a plate to share.

Hearty sandwiches, salads, burgers and other beer-friendly fare make the Brasserie popular for lunch and dinner. The brewery offers beers from blonde lagers to IPAs to seasonal ales and stouts. Our group sampled several. Our wonderful driver Dave was behind the wheel so were able to indulge in adult beverages.

On the Wine Route

Our stomachs full, we headed out to explore the wine route of Brome-Missisquoi where about 60 percent of Québec’s wine is produced. Now home to more than 20 wineries, the 160-kilometer route winds through beautiful countryside, rolling hills and several pleasant towns in the Eastern Townships. There are itineraries for cars and bicycles available.

Domaine du Ridge

Our first stop was at Domaine du Ridge, a 200-acre property that includes fields, woodlands and 40 acres of vineyards. It’s a popular venue for weddings and other special events. Tours and tastings are by reservation at this 26-year-old winery.

In addition to still and sparkling wines, Domaine du Ridge produces a late harvest made with Vidal Blanc grapes called Bis d’Automne (Autumn Kiss), a dessert wine in the style of Pineau des Charentes, and Mystic, a vermouth. After sampling several still wines from their recent vintage it was time to move on to Vignoble de l’Ardennais.

Vignoble de l’Ardennais

You’ll know you have arrived at Vignoble de l’Ardennais when you see the giant bunny painted on the garage. This was my favorite, both for the wines and the charming owner, Pier Cousineau, who with his wife Stephanie Thibodeau, and adult children Charlotte and Eliot, run every facet of wine production from label design to vinification.

Other than Pinot Noir and Riesling, the grape varieties used here were unfamiliar to me. Seyval Noir, Chancellor, Petite Pearl, Frontenac Noir, Cayuga, and Marquette are hardy hybrid varietals that grow well in the often unforgiving Québec climate. Monsieur Cousineau uses them to full advantage to produce excellent wines and has been since 2016 when they acquired the property. The vineyards had been established by the previous owner in 1994. Grab a glass of Berthe rose and relax in the Adirondack chairs or picnic tables. That’s my idea of a perfect summer Sunday afternoon.

Dining en Plein Aire

It was a pleasant surprise to find that our Sunday dinner at Les Cocagnes in Frelighsburg would be prepared by chefs Emile Trembly and Sylvain Dervieux from Faux Bergers in Baie St. Paul, where we had spent the weekend before arriving in Québec City.

Les Cocagnes

Each summer weekend, chefs from throughout Québec set up shop at this bucolic spot in the Eastern Townships. After an aperitif and hand-sliced local prosciutto, we followed our hostess through the fields and vegetable gardens to the outdoor dining room for a memorable five-course tasting menu paired with local wines. Reservations are essential.

It was time to leave the Eastern Townships for Montérégie. La Cache du Lac Champlain across the street from Lake Champlain was our home for the evening. After depositing our bags in our large room with a golf course view, we headed out for a moonlight walk along the lake.

We couldn’t resist a local ice cream stand a few blocks away and enjoyed our cones while admiring the public art and private terraces along the lake front. These terraces, with outdoor furniture and boat docks, dot the lakefront while the homes are across the road.

Public Art

Les Amoureuses (The Lovers) by Veronique Pepin and Patrick Monast has space inside for two. It is the first work in a public art installation in Venice-en-Québec and will be on view through May 2026.

Ferme Guyon and Bonne Saint Jean

We heard people at breakfast greeting each other with “Bonne Saint Jean.” Saint Jean Baptiste (John the Baptist) is the patron saint of Québec, and the Fete de la Saint Jean is a national holiday in the province. This called for a slight change of plans and a trip to Ferme Guyon.

Just 30 minutes from Montreal, this is the supermarket of my dreams. Farm-fresh produce, fine cheeses, charcuterie, maple sugar everything (cotton candy!), and an extensive selection of local ciders, beer and wines, plus Québecois handicrafts make this a one-stop shop for picnic provisions or any meal you’d want to prepare. If you don’t have time to visit local fromageries, wineries and farms, a trip here will definitely give you a taste of local flavors!

The Ferme Guyon also has an educational farm with adorable baby animals and a butterfly pavilion, which in addition to housing lepidoptera, is the habitat of Oscar, a 14-year old tortoise. I could have spent the whole day here, but shopping completed, we headed off to Cidrerie Michel Jodoin on the Rougemont Cider and Montérégie Wine Route.

Jodoin Cider…

I adore champagne and was intrigued to learn that Monsieur Jodoin had worked in France’s Champagne region in the 1980s and returned to Québec with a plan to make a sparkling wine from apples using the traditional methode champenois. His family has been in the apple orchard business for five generations, ever since Jean-Baptiste Jodoin purchased 100 apple trees in 1901. Jodoin is now the largest grower of Geneva apples in North America.

Their award-winning ciders were delicious, and we enjoyed them thoroughly with our picnic lunch in the cidery’s cellars. My favorite was Attention Ca Va Faire Pomme! It’s packaged to look like champagne and captures the wine’s characteristics right down to the perlage or tiny bubbles in the glass.

Jodoin makes several refreshing roses from apples, a broad range of fruit flavored ciders, vermouth, and non- alcoholic drinks. They became the first micro distillery in the country in 1999 and we tasted their spirits, too.

No reservations are needed to visit the Cidrerie Michel Jodoin tasting room. Visitors are welcome to enjoy their picnics outside and can access the hiking trails here. During the summer their grounds are often the site of evening entertainment.

…and More Wine

Next, we stopped into Coteau Rougemont just down the road from Jodoin, to sample their wines. The winery was quiet due to the holiday, so we enjoyed a leisurely tasting outdoors overlooking the beautiful gardens and rolling hills of Montérégie. They also sell local honey, jams and maple syrup at the winery.

Spaaaah

It was time for a break. Bonjour Québec arranged a wonderful afternoon of complete relaxation at Strom Spa Nordique. The thermal waters and serene surroundings are the draw here and we took full advantage, moving from one temperature- controlled pool to another on the recommended circuit. After several hours of blissful soaking, it was dinnertime.

The menu at Bistro Nord at the Strom Spa spotlights artfully and healthily prepared local produce and every course was both. Executive Chef Raphael Podlasiewicz came out to describe each delicious dish to us. Reservations are required at the Strom Spa Nordique locations throughout Québec and in their restaurants as well.

We spent our last night in Québec at the Hotel Rive Gauche, just 20 minutes from Montreal. The hotel is on the Richelieu River, and we were able to see a bit of the Fete de la Saint Jean fireworks launched further upstream.

Sugar Shack

Our last stop on our extraordinary epicurean adventure was a visit to Sucrerie de la Montagne. This traditional “sugar shack” has been a site for maple syrup production in Montérégie since the 1930s. It has been owned by the Faucher family since 1978.

Unlike most, this sugar shack is open all year long, not just March to April during the “sugaring off” season. Owner Steven Faucher (shown above in front of a photo of his father) showed us where and how they make syrup.

We learned how trees are tapped using a spout and bucket and the “maple water” collected and turned into syrup. It takes 40 gallons of maple water to make one gallon of light or amber (medium) syrup, and 50 gallons to make a gallon of dark syrup! Amber is the most popular grade of syrup.

How They Make It

We also visited the massive oven, which was purpose-built in 1982 for bread baking and requires two bakers working six days a week to make enough loaves to feed workers and guests during the maple sugar season.

After finishing our tour of the buildings, we settled into their popular restaurant for a hearty meal, served with maple syrup made at Sucrerie de la Montagne, of course. During lunch we were entertained by live traditional Québecois music and afterwards given a lesson in playing the spoons by our jovial and charming host. Depending on when you visit, you may even see an axe-throwing demonstration near the general store, which has a wide selection of local goods, handicrafts and maple syrup products. Some syrup and tea towels made it into my suitcase!

Southern Quebec for Summer Fun

Our journey through Southern Québec was an unending series of delight and surprise, from the gorgeous countryside to the incredible cuisine. What will really stay with me is the warmth, generosity, and hospitality of the people I met in Centre-du-Québec, the Eastern Townships and Montérégie. Despite recent political tensions between our countries, the Québecois are wonderfully welcoming. Take them up on their offer to, “Come to the Eastern Townships and hug it out!”

Written and photographed by Jeanne Neylon Decker

All materials published by Traveltawk.com are protected by US Copyright Laws and may not be reproduced without express permission.

This post contains affiliate links. If you click and book, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I promise not to spend it all on ice cream. Thank you. I appreciate it!

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