After a surprising number of rainy days on our springtime get-away to Maui, we woke to a brilliant blue Hawaiian day. From the balcony of our rental condo, we saw rainbows and cavorting whales–the perfect day to explore this little corner of paradise!
What better way to start the day than with rainbows and whales?
The Nakalele blowhole looked spectacular in photos, so we packed a picnic, swimsuits and snorkel gear, and off we went. We followed Highway 30 past Kapalua, home to the Ritz Carlton, and continued along the winding two-lane road beyond where it joins Highway 340—the Kahekili Highway. The road narrows along the rugged coastline and the views become even more breathtaking as you drive.
The curvy road narrows and dips so use your horn!
Near mile marker 38, you’ll begin to see cars parked on the side of the road and people trekking across a scrubby, rocky area towards a precipitous cliff and the ocean below. That’s your signal to pull off the road and join them.
Park on the shoulder.There’s no official parking area here.There are several hiking trails that lead down to the blowhole. One passes a small light beacon.
If mobility allows, join the march down toward the sea. We parked close to mile marker 38.5 and carefully made our way down through the rough and rocky landscape to get nearer, but not too close, to the blowhole.
The trail down is steep and rocky and the lava rock can be slippery.We visited the blowhole at high tide–spectacular!
Blowholes, sometimes known as marine geysers, are formed when sea caves develop landward and upward towards the surface. When waves sweep in, the hydraulic pressure forces the water up and out with enormous force creating a powerful plume. The higher the tide and swells, the more spectacular the eruptions.
These two wisely chose to enjoy nature’s show from a safe distance away. The area near the blowhole can be treacherous.
You can see the spray from the blowhole and hear the huge waves slam onto shore from quite a distance, especially during high tide. You can also feel the vibrations underfoot as you get closer.
This is not a hike for those with impaired mobility or while wearing flip flops. There are no barriers, safety features, paved pathways or services of any kind and the trail down can be challenging, but so worth it.
Heed the sign!
The Nakalele blowhole is a powerful, natural phenomenon and should be enjoyed with respect and caution from a safe distance. As a crude hand- painted sign warns, “Stay clear of blowhole. You can be sucked in and killed. It’s not a waterpark.” This is the only sign you’ll see here but please take it seriously and don’t get too close! People have been sucked into this blowhole and drowned and they have also been swept off the slippery lava rocks by the enormous waves common here and drowned.
You can see the huge plume and hear the giant waves crashing from a distance away, especially at high tide.
We didn’t go all the way down to the blowhole–no need to for great views. We sat on the rocks above for a long time, mesmerized by the pounding waves and the tremendous geyser as the blowhole shot plumes of sea water high into the air and people nearby tried to capture that perfect Instagrammable moment.
We were reluctant to leave Nakalele but the beach beckoned. Highway 340 continues on, but recent flash floods and road closures in the area led us to head back down the winding two-lane highway towards Kapalua until we spotted a sign for D.T. Fleming Beach Park.
At mile marker 31.1 we drove down Lower Honoapiilani Road and found ourselves in a big, paved parking lot with plenty of spaces available. We were lucky. This is a very popular and crowded beach on weekends and in the summertime–spots fill up early.
Recent storms made for rough surf — thus the red flag warning and a very busy lifeguard.
D.T. Fleming Beach Park has bathrooms, showers, changing areas, BBQs, and picnic tables. The beach even has a lifeguard which is not usual in our experience at Maui public beaches. Ritz Carlton guests use this beach and the hotel has a snack bar near the path between the hotel and the beach parking lot. If you want an ice cream or snack, you’re in luck!
Pineapples really did turn out to be gold for West Maui.
The beach is named in honor of David Thomas Fleming, a Scotsman, who emigrated to Maui with his family at age 9. D.T. Fleming is credited with introducing commercial pineapple cultivation to Western Maui in 1912, saving the Honolau Ranch, the local economy, and helping to create prosperity in the area that continues today.
We changed into our swimsuits, hauled our picnic and snorkel gear down to the sandy beach and settled in. The views were gorgeous, the water was warm, but all the storms we’d had recently made for a rough surf. The lifeguard was kept very busy calling people back onto shore. We took a dip and enjoyed the sunshine that had been so fleeting the last few days.
After lunch, we set out for the Kapalua Coastal Trail and Makaluapuna Point. The trail begins with a paved path that winds along the Ritz Carlton’s golf course.
This monument marksan ancient Hawaiian burial site beyond the hedge.
The Kapalua Coastal Trail gets rugged and rocky pretty quickly once you leave the golf course path but the scenery and rock formations are spectacular the closer you get to Makaluapuna Point.
The winds were high, the powerful waves were pounding the lava rock, and the trail became rougher as we reached Makaluapuna Point and spotted Dragon’s Teeth labyrinth. What a gorgeous spot for quiet contemplation!
There is a small sign asking people to be respectful and not leave anything in the center. According to a Wall Street Journal article, stacking stones on trails, paths and in labyrinth centers is a trend. Please don’t.
The “Dragon’s Teeth” were formed when hot lava hit the ocean and the wind and waves shaped the rock into what resembles jagged teeth. Can you see them?
Sometimes weather and ocean conditions make this stunning place off limits, but we visited on a beautiful day and were able to fully experience the peacefulness of this rugged spit of land, jutting into the sea. Paradise indeed!
Note: Visit Travel.Hawaii.Gov for updated Hawaiian travel information. Be sure to book your rental car ASAP and restaurant reservations before you go!
It seems like almost everyone I know is either on their way, just returned, or is planning a trip to Hawaii. With most international destinations still off limits for Americans, Hawaii is the perfect escape—mainlanders can enjoy a far flung holiday without leaving the USA. A trip to paradise during the pandemic is not going to happen without planning though. Gone are the days of buying a ticket and showing up at the airport. The State of Hawaii has testing requirements and rules in place to safeguard the health of its citizens and those wishing to enjoy a tropical get-away. Here’s what you need to know before you go.
First step—visit Safe Travels: State of Hawaii https://travel.hawaii.gov Here’s where you’ll find all current travel rules and requirements. They change frequently! You can also find helpful information at http://hawaiicovid19.com. You will need a Covid-19 test within 72-hours of travel and it must be administered by an approved testing organization. These are listed on the website. We used Carbon Health at San Diego’s airport. It was seamless and our results were back in plenty of time to upload and add to our documentation on the SafeTravelHawaii site. It was not inexpensive—we paid $170 each but knowing we’d have our results back on time reduced our stress level considerably.
There is also a mandatory online questionnaire to complete. Once you’ve submitted all the information required, the State of Hawaii will send you a QR code. You will need this to check in for your flight and at your hotel. Some car rental companies may also want to see and scan your code. Consider printing a copy or two and keeping it with you along with a printed copy of your negative Covid-19 test results. WiFi can be spotty and you may need to show the QR code even when you can’t access it on your mobile device.
Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own travel regulations. In Maui, you need to download the contact tracing app, for example.
if you’re traveling to Maui, as we were, you’ll need to download the contact tracing app for the island. Each of the Hawaiian Islands has their own, very specific rules and travel between islands also requires compliance with local regulations. You must meet all of these requirements even if you are fully vaccinated.
Alaska Airline’s pre-screening meant we got off the plane and started our vacation with no further Covid-19 checks necessary.
Your airline may also be of assistance in your travel preparations. We were able to complete a pre-clearance check before boarding our Alaska Airlines http://www.alaskaair.com flight. The wristbands we were given meant once we landed, we were free to leave the airport with no further interactions or delays. Hawaii means business– there were officials positioned throughout the airport, checking for wristbands. Those without them were whisked away.
Hawaii is a very popular destination right now, especially since most international travel is still off limits to Americans.
There is a mandatory quarantine in effect for anyone arriving without the required testing and documentation. I read recently of a couple who tried to bribe a TSA official upon landing without having been tested. They wanted to avoid quarantine and instead were arrested.
We spent lots of time admiring rainbows, whale watching and staring at the sea in Maui.
Be sure to book your rental car when you buy your air tickets. I’ve heard horror stories lately about the lack of rental car availability and the outrageous prices being charged. Do not expect to find a rental car without a reservation on any of the islands.
Because Hawaii is such a popular destination right now, make restaurant reservations before you leave home. We were lucky to get reservations for the last two nights of our 10-day holiday.
Many popular restaurants were fully booked for the first week of our vacation. We would have booked our favorites before we left home, had we known!
Due to Covid restrictions, restaurants are operating at limited capacity and reservations are a must at most places. Some of the more casual eateries will accept walk-ins and we had a luck with that at Maui Brewing Company www.mauibrewing.com on our first night. If you’re craving beer and a burger (or that tasty kalua pork), this is a great option and it’s family-friendly, too. I’m not much of a beer drinker but our friendly server gave me a few tastes to find one I liked– the Wiamea Red was my pick.
The Wiamea Red and Hazy Big Swell IPA were perfect with our burger and tacos after a long travel day.Maui Brewing makes a wide range of local beers from Bikini Blonde lager to the very robust Imperial Coconut Porter. They offer flights so you can try a few!
They offer their beer to go with or without take-away food orders and it’s priced better at the brewery than the Safeway. They have two locations on Maui and two on Oahu. We ate at the Lahaina/Kahana outpost.
If you are up for a night out and enjoy Asian cuisine, Star Noodle in Lahaina www.starnoodle.com gets two thumbs up from us. We had such a delicious lunch that we returned for dinner later in our stay.
Great food and a fabulous location make Star Noodle one of our top picks!
The seating is almost all outdoors and right on the ocean–just what you want on a Hawaiian holiday. All the noodles are made in-house and both the Hot n Sour noodles and Singapore noodles were delicious.
All the noodles at Star Noodle are made in-house and are delicious!
The Nuoc Cham wings were so tasty we ate them both times! The Adobo Ribs were excellent as were the Colossal Tempura Shrimp but beware—these dishes sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
These Nuoc Cham wings were so good we ordered them twice.We enjoyed a lunch and a dinner at Star Noodle. Reservations for both are required!
Star Noodle is located right next door to the Old Lahaina Luau www.oldlahainaluau.com and during our dinner we could hear the drumming and the singing from next door. I even caught a glimpse of a few performers headed to the stage.
The Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best and most popular on the island. They sell out months in advance during the high season.
This brought back happy memories of traveling to Maui with our kids when they were younger and a trip to the luau was a Hawaiian highlight. The concierge at the Westin told me that the Old Lahaina Luau is still one of the best on the island but get your tickets way in advance—it sells out quickly!
Dukes is a popular spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
On our last night in Maui, we opted for the extremely popular Duke’s Beach House www.dukesmaui.com since it was just a short walk up the beach from the Nanea. We had booked early in the trip and honestly, my expectations were not high but the food and the service far surpassed what I imagined a place packed with tourists would offer. I had delicious, seared ahi and my husband opted for a huge and tasty burger.
The ahi was perfectly fresh and seared just right.They make a big, tasty burger at Duke’s Maui.
They offered us a complimentary Hulu pie—their signature dessert, but we were too full to accept. They also had live music—a treat after being locked down for so long– and they’re right across from the beach so tables close to the esplanade have lovely views. Duke’s serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Make reservations!
Grilling at the oceanfront condo we rented took the sting out of cooking on vacation.
After cooking at home for months and months, we found ourselves still cooking on vacation most nights, but the change of scenery made it much more palatable! We stayed in a condo in Kahana our first five nights https://www.vacasa.com/unit/15880 and had a well-equipped kitchen and sparkling clean BBQ grills in the pool area which we used nightly. It was pretty special to grill just feet from the ocean and enjoy our meals on the balcony while whale watching! That’s something we can’t do at home.
We had rainbows at breakfast, whale watching at lunch, and spectacular sunsets before dinner every night from the balcony at our Hololani rental.
Our last five nights were at the Westin Nanea, an upscale timeshare on the north end of Ka’anapali. We had a very large two-bedroom unit with an eat-in kitchen and all the amenities we needed. http://marriott.com The pools were busy but the adjacent lawn area and beach were peaceful.
Both the Westin Nanea and its sister property Ocean Resort Villas further down the beach were buzzing with activity during our stay. We had a fully-equipped kitchen, a dining area plus a balcony with table and chairs at our two-bedroom, two bath villa. There was plenty of room to spread out in our unit at the family-friendly Westin Nanea.
Dining options on the property were very limited due to Covid but BBQ grills were placed throughout the expansive property so we’d grab a glass of wine and our fish and head down the elevators to cook most nights. We met some lovely people while preparing our meals!
Guests will find BBQ grills throughout the grounds at the Nanea.
If you are planning a “self-catering” holiday in Maui where you have a kitchen and/or grill available, be sure to stock up at the Costco near the airport. We got most of the basics, wine, and fantastic fresh fish there. I also picked up a lightweight rain jacket which came in very handy on this trip. You’ll also find chocolate covered macadamia nuts, Hawaiian coffee, and other edible souvenirs at a fraction of the price of the touristy shops around the island. Watch out for the chickens roaming the parking lot!
These chickens were in Lahaina but their cousins were everywhere– including the Costco parking lot.
If you don’t have a Costco membership or just want a few things, the Lahaina Safeway will have what you need. We made a trip or two there, as well.
Pick up pies both sweet and savory—it is vacation after all–at Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop in Olowalu https://www.leodas.com. There’s always a line but it goes quickly. The Olowalu Lime and Chocolate Macadamia were my favorites!
Leoda’s is a popular stop for sweet and savory pies, sandwiches and more. Avoid disappointment and go early or order online! Pies sell out and when they’re gone, they’re gone.
Right next door is the Olowalu Juice Stand and Farmer’s Market for fresh fruits and vegetables, ice cold coconuts, sweets and more. We watched a Farmer’s Market clerk with a machete make quick work of a coconut, preparing it for a customer in minutes– paper umbrella and all. There’s also a small general store and the Butterfly Farm here.
Grab one of Olowalu Juice Stand’s tropical smoothies and head next door to the Farmer’s Market where fresh coconuts and pineapples are big sellers.We didn’t go in, but the Butterfly Farm is close to Leoda’s and the Juice Stand in Olowalu.
After a long year of not traveling, our trip to Maui was just what we needed. It was exciting to be on an airplane again and to spend some time in such a beautiful, tropical paradise—without ever leaving our own country!
What a wonderful trip after a long year without travel!
Next up, I’ll share about some of the places we explored in Maui when we weren’t gazing out to sea, watching for whales, and enjoying rainbows!
Note- This article was written in April 2021. Many Covid-related restrictions have changed since that time.
