Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually and it seems like everyone is heading to the Eternal City this summer. Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?
The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.
The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days. The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.
The Baths of Diocletian
The Baths of Diocletian are just across the busy Piazza Repubblica near Rome’s main train station Stazione Termini.
We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.
The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.
We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.
Even without a special exhibit on, this museum should be on your list. Built in the 4th century, these are the largest of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. They are also among the best preserved and easy to reach since they are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s train station—Roma Termini.
Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.
A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.
Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.
If you happen to visit the in the evening, you’ll have the opportunity to walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light—a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.
The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.
In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.
The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.
This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.
Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.
Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.
Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.
We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.
Also near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.
Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.
Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.
These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.
This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.
These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.
Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.
The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.
The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.
Palazzo Altemps
This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.
Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.
Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.
The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.
The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.
Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.
The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.
Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.
The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.
The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.
Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.
Crypta Balbi
Crypta Balbi’s excavations show how Rome developed from antiquity through the 20th century, building layer upon layer from its ancient beginnings.
You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.
The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.
Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.
Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.
Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, just around the corner from the Largo di Torre Argentina where you’ll find interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point.
The Largo di Torre Argentina is home to ancient Roman ruins and a cat sanctuary.
The Pantheon
The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.
The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures and has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. As of July 3, 2023 a 5 Euro fee is required to enter. Tickets are available online and onsite and nearly 3,800 were sold the first day.
Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.
We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.
Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.
The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.
Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.
After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.
Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.
Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Be sure to reserve as far in advance as you can– it’s enormously popular with locals and tourists.
The Colosseum
If you’ve never visited Rome before, you’ll need to brave the crowds and see the Colosseum.
I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without—just look for the signs. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.
Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.
There are rules, though apparently not always observed.
You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade so wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.
The Forum
The Forum tempts the imagination with incredible Imperial Roman ruins.
The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.
Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.
Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.
Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.
All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a really good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at Largo Ricci #40, 06.6791121. We expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites but were pleasantly surprised by both the food and the prices.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.
If you are prepared for a short journey, take a trip to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea, but now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded. We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with painting still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.
These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.
