Art

Liguria’s Allure: Exploring Camogli, the Cinque Terre and Portofino

Liguria is the place you imagine when you think of Italy’s spectacularly scenic Mediterranean coastline, stylish Europeans sipping spritzs behind oversized sunglasses, perhaps aboard fabulous yachts bobbing in crystalline waters. I’d traveled to Italy 15 times and when a friend asked why I’d never been to Liguria, I had no answer. It was time!

*Liguria is known for its beautiful seaside towns. We chose to stay in Camogli.*

There are many lovely small cities and towns dotting the Ligurian coast, all with their own particular charms. We settled on Camogli, midway between the bustling seaport city of Genoa to the north and Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the ever- popular Cinque Terre—the Five Towns. We had a rental car and planned to drive from Ortesei in the Val Gardena, where we’d spent a week at the Adler Dolomiti hiking in the beautiful Italian Alps, to the Ligurian coast.

*Pastel buildings, many at least six stories high, line the seafront in Camogli.*

The freeways were fine, but rain and traffic slowed us down considerably. We’d been driving for nearly six and half hours for a trip that should have taken just over five, when 90 minutes shy of our destination we entered another of an endless string of tunnels (the Italians call them galleries) and quickly noticed that not only had traffic completely stopped, but everyone around us had turned off their engines. Did I mention I was claustrophobic? Just as I was beginning to hyperventilate, the people in a car ahead of ours jumped out, skateboard and a soccer ball in hand.

*We were stuck in a tunnel for more than an hour*— *watching them kept my mind off it!*

This was the distraction I needed for the next hour until miraculously, engines started, and traffic began to move ever so slowly out of the tunnel. What a relief to finally arrive at the Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli.

Camogli- Under the Radar but Not for Long

*The terrace at Cenobio dei Dogi is the perfect place for lunch or an aperitivo.*

Our room at the Cenobio was on the top floor of this building above the pool. It was nice to have a choice of the pool or the private beach and we often used both!

We chose the Cenobio after reading about it in a Frances Mayes book. It’s a stylish grand dame of a hotel, with a prime location at the end of the esplanade overlooking the sea and the town below. It has a private beach, a pool with plenty of lounge chairs, a well-reviewed restaurant and an outdoor terrace for drinks and lunch, all with amazing sea views. It is steps away from the main pedestrian street, Largo Luigi Simonetti, and a five-minute walk to the train station.

We had phoned ahead (from the tunnel), and they had a table was waiting for us in Il Doges restaurant. We tucked into a fresh mushroom salad, spaghetti al vongole (with clams), and a tower of fritto misto del mare with every kind of fish imaginable, before heading upstairs where we were lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves below.

Our room was on the top floor of the bright pink building behind the main hotel. The room was amply sized, and simply but comfortably furnished with a private balcony. I could have spent every waking moment admiring the sea view.

*The view from our balcony was unbeatable– the sea and Camogli! The umbrellas below are on the hotel’s terrace.*

Camogli boasts a bevy of tall pastel- hued buildings, most at least six stories high, looking out to the sea, where historically, many in this community have earned their livelihood. There are more working boats than pleasure craft in Camogli’s harbor and townspeople go about the business of living among the tourists who descend on the pedestrian main street in search of fresh seafood, focaccia, and beachy souvenirs.

*You’ll see more working boats than yachts in Camogli’s harbor.*

*These whimsical fish tail sculptures mark the beach near Camogli’s port.*

We devoted the next day to exploring Camogli, wandering the harbor area, window shopping, and learning about the Sagra del Pesce. Since 1952, the town has hosted a huge annual fried fish feast, originally served free to all. The event happens the second weekend in May, and honors the patron saint of fishermen, San Fortunato.

*Camogli is famous for its Sagre de Pesce– an annual event where everyone is welcome and fried fish is on the menu. This is one of the pans they used to use– four meters across!*

The early festivals used smaller cookware but in 1954, the first of a series of massive pans was introduced. That one was four meters in diameter. Two of these immense pans are displayed on a wall on Via Guiseppe Garabaldi near the Largo Luigi Simonetti. This year, three tons of fish, fried in 3,000 liters of olive oil, were served. In all, 30,000 portions were prepared by volunteers. Hungry attendees are asked to contribute 6 Euro each, all of which goes to charity. They even fry up gluten-free portions of fish!

*Here’s a look at the Sagre de Pesce circa 1970 using the pan that now hangs on the town wall.*

The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as the main thoroughfare and is where you’ll find most of the town’s restaurants and shops. Families gather and children ride bicycles around the small piazzetta, which is also a perfect place for a sunset aperitivo and dinner.

*The Largo Luigi Simonetti, an elevated esplanade above the sea, serves as Camogli’s main thoroughfare*. *It’s a busy place on a Sunday at lunchtime!*

One of the joys of staying in a seaside town is all the fresh fish. Camogli has so many excellent places to eat it was hard to choose, but Izoa was one of our favorites.

You’ll find fish and pasta on every menu in town. Squid ink linguini with shrimp and vegetables was my pick!

Camogli has its share of tourists who visit, eat, shop, and mostly depart by nightfall. The crowds here do not compare to towns further south, particularly in the Cinque Terre, and we were very grateful for that!

*Sweet, savory or just plain, focaccia is as ubiquitous in Liguria as bruschetta is in Tuscany. There always a line, but it is worth waiting for the fresh baked focaccia at Revello.*

*Camogli’s public beach is popular even in October– the weather is still warm! Beaches in this area are covered in cobbles, not sand, so bring your aqua socks.*

The Abbey at San Fruttuoso

A trip to the Abbey at San Fruttuoso is a highlight of a stay in Camogli. This beautiful Benedictine abbey dates to the 10^th century and can only be accessed by foot – an arduous hours-long hike to the end of the peninsula, or a pleasant less than 30 -minute jaunt aboard a boat. You can catch the regularly scheduled boat, which is well signed-posted, on Camogli’s pier near the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta.

The Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta towers over the harbor behind it and the public beach in front of it.

The regularly schedule boat to Punta Chiappa and San Fruttuoso leaves from this easy to find dock in Camogli.

After a quick stop at Punta Chiappa, we landed on the beach below the abbey. Upon arrival, you have options. You can climb the stone stairs up to reach the abbey immediately, take a hike up the hill beside it for the views, or just relax on the beach, as we saw a number of people doing.

*It’s an hours- long hike or a quick boat ride to the abbey at San Fruttouso. We took the boat.*

Many beaches in this area are filled with smooth stones rather than sand, so pack your aqua socks. The cobbles are really hard on tender feet!

There are two small restaurants on either side of the beach that we didn’t visit but seemed to be doing a good business. We climbed the steps, past the old rowboats and went inside to explore the maritime art, medieval artifacts, and antiquities housed on several floors of the abbey. We also visited the 10th century chapel and the crypt.

The Abbey of San Fruttuoso has numerous antiquities, maritime artifacts and art on display.

Though the abbey was important in the 11th and 12th centuries, it fell into disrepair and in 1467 was abandoned by the Benedictine monks who founded it. Genoa’s Doria family assumed patronage which lasted until 1885. Many members of the prominent family are buried here in the striking grey and white marble crypt.

*This small chapel in the Benedictine Abbey of San Fruttuoso dates back to the 10th century.*

*When the tide is low you can see San Fruttuoso’s image at the beach below his namesake abbey.*

We spent a few hours exploring the Abbey and the grounds and were back in Camogli in time for a leisurely late lunch on the hotel’s terrace and a swim.

The Cinque Terre–Beautiful But…

*This is the kind of view that draw tourists from around the world to the Cinque Terre.*

Since we were so close to the Cinque Terre, we planned to take a train early the next morning to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the five towns, and make our way back up the coast by boat, stopping in each of the towns as we went. We had a car, but parking is almost impossible in these small Ligurian towns. It was a gorgeous, sunny October day — perfect for exploring, or so we thought. We caught a local train and less than an hour later disembarked along with a shocking number of other visitors. We could not believe how crowded the town was in the so-called off season.

Riomaggiore

We made our way through the heaving throngs down to the pier only to find a sign announcing there would be no boats “due to adverse weather.” Too nice to spend the day at work was our guess!

*No boats today! Sunny skies, calm seas–we couldn’t fathom the “adverse weather conditions” noted on the sign.*

*It’s a waiting game in Riomaggiore– the southernmost town in the Cinque Terre.*

We waited to climb up the stone steps to enjoy the views out over the water, waited to climb back down, waited to get a cup of coffee, and waited some more. We were not enjoying the highly touted charms of Riomaggiore. We decided to get on a train heading north and pay a visit to Vernazza, reputed to be the most beautiful of the five towns.

Vernazza

If Riomaggiore was crowded, Vernazza was mobbed! Even climbing the stairs to exit the train station was a challenge. There were tour groups galore. We finally made our way down to the water, and after noting the crowds, headed for the 11^th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia for a bit of peace and quiet.

*Vernazza is meant to be the most beautiful of the five towns in Cinque Terre.*

*The 11th century church of Santa Margherita d’Antiocchia provided a bit of peace and quiet in bustling Vernazza.*

After a walk around the main square, Piazza Marconi, we decided to head back to Camogli.

*After fighting the crowds to get to the ticket machine– it didn’t work!*

The ticket machine at the station wouldn’t take our credit cards or our cash. We asked the information person what to do since we didn’t want to get a fine, or worse, for traveling without a valid ticket. He laughed, said the machines had been broken for some time and advised we just get on the train with the tickets we’d used to come south. On we went, back down through the masses to the tracks below and northward to Camogli. We treated ourselves to gelato, headed for the hotel, and spent the rest of the afternoon at their private beach, enjoying the serenity of our beautiful little town.

*What a relief to return to Camogli and the blissful peace of the Cenobio’s private beach!*

Picture Perfect Portofino

By now we had explored Camogli, visited the much-vaunted Cinque Terre, had gone swimming in the Ligurian Sea’s crystal-clear waters, enjoyed a spritz or two, but still hadn’t seen any yachts. One stop on the local train took us to Santa Margherita Ligure and then a short bus ride brought us to picture-perfect Portofino.

The pretty town boasts upscale boutiques, inviting restaurants and a gorgeous harbor filled with yachts. There were also plenty of tourists, which at this point was not unexpected. We had a nice wander around town but the sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, we had planned to visit was closed, though we’d checked the website first.

We hiked up the hill to the lovely church of San Giorgio, lit a few candles and enjoyed the views. We realized we could probably see at least some of the art from above and took a winding path back down from the church to the harbor, enjoying the sculpture as we went.

*The sculpture garden, Museo del Parco, was closed but we saw a lot of the art from above as we walked back down to the Piazzetta from the Church of San Giorgio.*

*Here’s the view from above of Portofino’s beautiful harbor and the Museo del Parco.*

We decided to take a boat back to Santa Margherita Ligure—an excellent choice as it turned out. The boat took us on a scenic tour of the harbor where we saw plenty of pleasure craft, and spotted magnificent homes in the hills above the town.

*I’ll always say yes to a boat ride– especially on a day as beautiful as this one.*

After our all too brief boat ride, we enjoyed a walk around Santa Margherita Ligure’s waterfront and headed to the train station for the one- stop train ride back to Camogli.

Genoa

Here’s where our well-planned day took a turn. Santa Margherita Ligure’s station was small and didn’t have the large electronic signs with train numbers, expected arrival times and destinations you’ll typically find in Italian train stations. Five minutes before ours was due, a train pulled in and I insisted we get on. My husband reluctantly climbed aboard and as soon as the doors closed, I sensed I’d made a mistake. This train was much more luxurious than the locals we’d been taking up and down the coast. Sure enough, when I asked another passenger if the next stop was Camogli, he shrugged and said, “No lo so, Camogli.” –he didn’t know Camogli. Not a good sign. A conductor came along and when I showed him our tickets he laughed and announced we were on an express train to Genoa which, by the way, had nine different stations. He advised we keep our tickets, get off at Piazza Principe, and take the next local train back to Camogli.

We arrived in Genoa in less than 30 minutes. The leisurely ride back to Camogli took more than an hour and stopped no fewer than eleven times, but the views over the sea were spectacular. Lesson learned. Trains in Italy may be delayed, but they do not arrive early.

Though I still struggle with the appeal of the tourist- packed Cinque Terre and our misadventures landed us in Genoa, I loved our time in Liguria. It is a beautiful area with enormous charm, delicious food and wine, and absolutely worth a visit. I’ll definitely return to Camogli, may explore Genoa, but will give the Cinque Terre a miss next time!

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Explore Rome’s Ancient Wonders and Avoid the Crowds

Rome is the destination of choice for tens of millions of visitors annually and it seems like everyone is heading to the Eternal City this summer. Where do all those tourists go? Only the Vatican gets more visitors than the Colosseum and both boast more than 4 million each year. Rome has more monuments than any other city in the world, so why fight the crowds when there are so many other archeological marvels to see in Bella Roma?

The Vatican Museums are astounding and should be on everyone’s itinerary but even with timed entry tickets, be prepared for enormous crowds.

The savvy traveler to Rome will purchase an Archeological Museum Pass. The last time we checked, 25 Euro will buy you an expedited entrance to several of Rome’s most important archeological sites and museums. The Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill, Baths of Diocletian, Crypta Balbi, Palazzo Massimo, Palazzo Altemps, and Baths of Caracalla are all included. The pass is available for purchase at any of these sites and is good for seven consecutive days. The Roma Pass also includes these sites plus additional museums and public transportation. It is available for 32 Euro for a two- day pass or 52 Euro for a three- day pass.

The Baths of Diocletian

The Baths of Diocletian are just across the busy Piazza Repubblica near Rome’s main train station Stazione Termini.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian many times and have never had to wait on line to enter. On our first visit a few years ago, an expansive Henry Moore exhibition was on display throughout the baths. Seeing Moore’s sculpture, large and small, in this remarkable setting was an incredible experience.

The largest and best preserved thermal baths the Romans constructed, the Baths of Diocletian provide a respite from the crowds, outstanding architecture, art and history.

We were fortunate to see a marvelous Henry Moore exhibition staged at the Baths of Diocletian on one of our first visits here.

Even without a special exhibit on, this museum should be on your list. Built in the 4^th century, these are the largest of all the thermal baths built by the Romans. They are also among the best preserved and easy to reach since they are across the Piazza della Repubblica from Rome’s train station—Roma Termini.

Remarkably preserved Roman mosaics line the floors and some walls within the Baths of Diocletian.

A memorable experience awaits visitors to this archeological and architectural wonder.

Water was stored in these great halls where sculpture now stands.

If you happen to visit the in the evening, you’ll have the opportunity to walk inside the enormous baths bathed in blue light—a simulation of sorts of what the ancient Roman experience may have been. Day or evening, don’t miss this astounding repository of Rome’s magnificent history.

The large marble-clad pool, called the natatio, was about 4,000 square meters and one meter deep. Visitors are free to wander throughout the pool areas and great halls.

In 1561, Michelangelo was given the job of converting the Bath’s frigidarium into a church. He created the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli on the site, along with the cloister he designed. He likely did not live long enough to oversee its construction though it is referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister. More than 400 works of art, including sculpture, reliefs, altars and more are displayed in the cloister and gardens.

The cloister of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, referred to as Michelangelo’s Cloister, contains hundreds of statues, sculpture, altars and sarcophagi.

This is one of several colossal animal heads that were found near Trajan’s Column in 1586 and brought to the cloister.

Inside the National Roman Museum, which has been housed at the Baths of Diocletian since 1889, visitors will find three floors of extraordinary exhibitions and works of art ranging from important documents related to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries, to classic sculpture, funerary objects, mosaics and much more.

Art and artifacts from the 5th century BC to the 4th century AD are displayed in the area known as the Epigraphic Museum, part of the National Roman Museum.

Fascinating documents and antiquities relating to Roman life, culture and commerce through the centuries bring the Roman experience to life.

We have visited the Baths of Diocletian numerous times and always spend many more hours than we planned– wandering through the Baths, the garden and cloister, and of course, the marvelous museum and beautiful Michelangelo-designed church, all located on this easy- to- reach site. There is so much to see here. Don’t miss it!

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Built at the behest of Jesuit priest Massimiliano Massimo, whose family had owned the land prior to the construction of Rome’s Termini Station, Palazzo Massimo was constructed between 1883 and 1887.

Also near the Baths of Diocletian you’ll find the stunning Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. This is another of Rome’s great treasures not found on many traveller’s itineraries. The Palazzo Massimo gives visitors a rare look into what life was like for upper class Romans during the empire’s heyday.

Detail of one of the many beautifully preserved mosaics on display at Palazzo Massimo alle Terme.

Here you’ll discover beautifully preserved mosaics, frescoes, stuccoes and entire rooms rebuilt inside the museum from Imperial Roman villas. The beautiful painted garden from Livia’s Villa (constructed 75-50 BC) now displayed here, offers a serene escape in the heart of the busy city.

These carefully restored painted walls once adorned the villa belonging to Livia, wife of Augustus.

This reconstructed room from Villa Farnesina gives a glimpse into upper class Roman life in the 1st century BC.

These bronze arms were fittings from one of two ceremonial vessels owned by Caligula and recovered from Lake Nemi between World Wars I and II. The ships were destroyed during WWII.

Portraits from the Republican to the Imperial era, Greek and Roman sculpture (including the famous Hermaphroditus Asleep from the 2^nd Century), jewelry, furnishings, and even a mummy of an eight-year old are included in the museum’s collections.

The Boxer (also called The Pugilist) seems to gaze plaintively at visitors through his lost eyes. This magnificent sculpture may date from the 4th century BC and was found on Quirinal Hill.

The Lancellotti Discobolos, in the foreground, is another important sculpture from the Antonine period on view at Palazzo Massimo.

Palazzo Altemps

This peaceful courtyard gives visitors to Palazza Altemps quiet respite from the busy Piazza Navona just outside.

Just off the busy Piazza Navona is Palazzo Altemps. This gorgeous 15^th century palace was once home to Cardinal Altemps and has been a part of the Roman National Museum since 1997.

Classical sculpture and elaborately decorated ceilings line the loggia.

The Palazzo includes works ranging from Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, original frescoes, and the spectacular Ludovisi Collection.

The Ludovisi Fury is thought to be a copy of a Greek work, likely from the 2nd century. The left side of the face was cut horizontally to provide stability and is sometimes called the Sleeping Fury.

Ancient sculpture and reliefs from important collections, notable Egyptian artifacts, frescoes from 70-100 AD, and other antiquities are all housed in the museum’s galleries.

The 104 sculptures that comprise the collection, begun by Cardinal Ludovico Ludovisi in the early 1620s and purchased by the Italian government in 1901, is widely regarded as the centerpiece of the Palazzo Altemps. Be sure to see the famous Ludovisi Throne.

Detail of one of the colossal sculptures displayed at the Palazzo.

The museum also houses several other important collections including the Mattei and “Dragon Collection” which has nothing to do with mythical beasts but is instead the works owned by the del Drago family. Visitors will also find the Pallavicini Rospigliosi Frescoes, which date from 70-100 AD, and notable art and significant artifacts in the Altemps’ Egyptian and Antiquarian collections.

The beautiful Church of San Aniceto is located within the Palazzo Altemps– a serene spot for contemplation and prayer.

Step inside the Church of San Aniceto, which is located within the palazzo and was built in 1617 to house the saint’s remains, for a meditative moment or two and leave the noise and crowds behind.

Crypta Balbi

Crypta Balbi’s excavations show how Rome developed from antiquity through the 20th century, building layer upon layer from its ancient beginnings.

You will not be fighting crowds at Crypta Balbi, also part of the National Roman Museum. It is a wonderful archeological site and should be on your list of remarkable places to see. A subterranean tour through excavations of ancient buildings, combined with fascinating exhibitions, takes visitors on a historical journey from Rome’s earliest beginnings through the 20th century.

The excavations, which give visitors a fascinating look at the city’s earliest development, began in 1981.

Frescoes, such as these from Santa Maria in Via Lata can be found upstairs in the “Rome from Antiquity to Middle Ages” section of the museum.

Ceramics, glass fragments, coins, tools and other items from Roman daily life centuries ago are on display.

Be aware that there are not always English speaking guides available to accompany you through the excavations below the museum but the exhibitions upstairs have information in English. Even without a guide, it is worth exploring the lower level. The museum is at Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, just around the corner from the Largo di Torre Argentina where you’ll find interesting ruins, a sunken excavation site and a cat sanctuary and adoption point.

The Largo di Torre Argentina is home to ancient Roman ruins and a cat sanctuary.

The Pantheon

The Pantheon is one of Rome’s most important and most visited ancient wonders.

The Pantheon is one of ancient Rome’s most glorious structures and has been in continual use since it was built by Marcus Agrippa in 31 BC and rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian 125-118 AD. Illuminated by the oculus in its magnificent dome, the Pantheon boasts the largest masonry vault ever constructed. As of July 3, 2023 a 5 Euro fee is required to enter. Tickets are available online and onsite and nearly 3,800 were sold the first day.

Originally built in 31 BC by Marcus Agrippa, this is the largest masonry vault ever constructed and it is spectacular.

We have been here when the sun is streaming in through the oculus as well as when the rain is pouring down—a visit here is a memorable experience at any time.

Sculpture, paintings and sacred art adorn the interior of the Pantheon.

The esteemed Italian painter Raphael and Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuel II, are both buried here. Go early in the morning to beat the crowds.

Arrive here any time after early morning and be prepared for large crowds and the occasional, “Silencio,” shouted by guards.

After you’ve finished marveling at the immense beauty inside the Pantheon, take a walk around the exterior. You can see excavations of the shops and dwellings that surrounded the building during the era of Imperial Rome.

Shops and homes were once built into the Pantheon’s exterior walls. Visitors can see the remains today.

Close to this magnificent building you’ll find the classic Armando Al Pantheon. Open for lunch and dinner, except on Saturday nights and Sundays, this place serves traditional Roman cuisine. Be sure to reserve as far in advance as you can– it’s enormously popular with locals and tourists.

The Colosseum

If you’ve never visited Rome before, you’ll need to brave the crowds and see the Colosseum.

I’m not suggesting you skip the Colosseum. In fact, if you’re planning to head over that way, be sure to include the Forum and Palatine Hill in your plans. Just be prepared. Lines are less long early in the morning, but there are always lines. If you have an Archeological Pass or Roma Pass you get to go on a much shorter line than those without—just look for the signs. The Colosseum, which took just under 10 years to build, was completed in 80 AD and is the largest amphitheater ever constructed.

Pack your patience and your most comfortable walking shoes. Crowds are huge and steps are steep and unforgiving at the Colosseum–one of Rome’s most visited sites.

There are rules, though apparently not always observed.

You’ll be hiking up and down some very steep stone steps and rocky, uneven walk ways in both the Colosseum and the Forum. There is no shade so wear a hat or take an umbrella to keep the sun off and bring a bottle of water if it’s a hot day. There are no services or shops. Some areas are handicapped accessible but inquire before setting off.

The Forum

The Forum tempts the imagination with incredible Imperial Roman ruins.

The Roman Forum was the heart of the ancient city and the ruins are spectacular. Some of the highlights include the Arch of Titus (through which most visitors enter), the Temple of Saturn, and the Temple of Vesta. The Sacra Via, or sacred road, runs through the ancient site.

Uneven walkways and cobbled paths at the Forum call for comfortable shoes. Bring a hat and water– there’s no shade and no conveniences inside the gates.

Be aware that unlike the Colosseum, there are no facilities once you are in the Forum—no bathrooms, snack shops, water fountains or souvenir vendors inside the gates. Beware of pickpockets and “for hire” guides at both the Colosseum and the Forum. The latter often dupe visitors into thinking they must buy a guided tour to get inside, which is not true.

Visitors take a walk through ancient history on original Roman roads. Most significant sites are signed in English and Italian but a guidebook will be handy here.

All that walking gave us an appetite. We had a really good lunch across from the Colosseum at Angelino ai Fori dal 1947 at Largo Ricci #40, 06.6791121. We expected high prices and mediocre food since it’s so close to several major tourist sites but were pleasantly surprised by both the food and the prices.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch on the patio at Angelino ai Fori.

If you are prepared for a short journey, take a trip to Ostia Antica. Ancient Ostia was once a bustling seaside town built on the Tiber River where it enters the Mediterranean Sea, but now, 2,000 years later, it is four kilometers from the water. We found the ancient site even more interesting than the Forum and far less crowded. We enjoyed a picnic here one fine afternoon and learned, once we had secured a knowledgeable guide of the area, that we’d had our lunch seated on a burial site. There are spectacular ruins of baths, a theater, apartment houses (some with painting still intact), mosaics, and much more to see in the excavations of this once fortified city.

These are just a few of the astounding archeological treasures found nowhere else but Rome. Put on your walking shoes and go explore this ancient and vibrant city.

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California’s High Desert Hidden Gems: Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum

It’s been months since museums have been closed in Southern California where I live, so when I learned about an outdoor museum while planning a trip to Joshua Tree National Park, I knew we had to go!

*Welcome to Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture.*

After spending most of the day hiking in the strange but beautiful Joshua Tree National Park, we headed out for a look at another high desert gem—Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Art Museum of Assemblage Art. We drove through the small town of Joshua Tree, into the scrubby desert landscape, past large lots and small houses–more than a few surrounded by chain link fences. In this part of Southern California, pick-up trucks are far more popular than Porsches.

*The high desert landscape is the perfect setting for Mr. Purifoy’s assemblage art. Shipwrecked is in the foreground with White House to the left.*

Up and down the lonely roads we drove until our turn- off onto an unpaved road that ended in a dirt lot. A triumphal arch of tires spelling out W-E-L-C-O-M-E in a non- conformist way, let us know we had arrived.

*Please don’t jump on the Band Wagon, 1995. Tempting as it is, visitors are asked to refrain from touching or climbing on the sculptures.*

*Bowling balls play a starring role in a number of Mr. Purifoy’s sculptures.*

*Found materials of all kinds make up the monumental sculpture in the Outdoor Desert Museum, as in this work called Aurora Borealis.*

I have been fascinated by assemblage art for a long time. Created from found materials, assemblage art personifies the old saying, “One man’s trash is another’s treasure,” and shows how a creative mind can make something provocative, beautiful, and meaningful from goods that might otherwise have been tossed on the trash heap. Noah Purifoy’s Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is the embodiment of that.

*1996 Toilet Bowl Sculpture is just one of the 30 inventive and monumental assemblage sculptures on the 10-acre art site.*

Too often, we find ourselves exploring these out-of-the-way places alone. We were happy to see others here experiencing these amazing art installations.

*Purifoy’s work can be poignant and provocative. This piece is called White/Colored.*

*Homelessness and shelter are among the social themes Purifoy explores in his work.*

A renowned assemblage artist, Noah Purifoy first came to national attention with sculpture he created using burnt debris from the 1965 Watts Riots in Los Angeles. His work was part of 66 Signs of Neon, a landmark group exhibition that traveled across America and abroad from 1966- 1971.

*Prominently positioned, The White House includes plumbing ware and bowling balls. It took Purifoy three years to create.*

*Free brochures lead visitors on a self-guided tour of the 10-acre site. Docent-led visits for groups can be arranged through the Noah Purifoy Foundation.*

Purifoy was the founder and first director of the Watts Tower Art Center and was later appointed to the California Arts Council, a position he held for more than a decade. His work there included bringing art into California’s State Prison system under the Artists in Social Institutions program he initiated.

*This piece, called Kirby Express, was created from old Kirby vacuum cleaners and bicycle parts among other things.*

*Here’s Kirby Express from a different vantage point with Shipwrecked and Carousel to the left.*

*No Contest (Bicycles) is dwarfed by a Joshua Tree, the area’s namesake desert plant.*

Long a fixture on LA’s art scene, Purifoy, who was born in Alabama in 1917, moved to Joshua Tree in California’s high desert in 1989. He began populating his 10-acre sculpture park with works of all shapes and sizes using materials ranging from discarded toilets to tires and just about everything in between. Industrial materials, clothing, wood, metal, rubber, concrete and old appliances all found their way into Purifoy’s art.

*From the Point of View of the Little People, 1994.*

*Abstract, whimsical, inventive and thought provoking, Purifoy’s works are best experienced by a visit to his amazing desert museum.*

*Piles of old chairs became art in Purifoy’s wildly creative hands.*

From 1989 until his death in 2004, Purifoy worked to create a public art space that continues to attract visitors from across the country and around the world. Admission to the sculpture park is free but donations are welcome. The Outdoor Desert Museum is open daily.

*The Gas Station conveys a certain attitude. The White House is to the left.*

*Admission is free but donations are welcome.*

Purifoy’s work can be seen at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC, as well as other prestigious art institutions here and abroad. Until those eminent museums open their doors again, and even after, visitors to Southern California may well want to head to the high desert to experience Purifoy’s final and very impressive body of work. Visit www.noahpurifoy.com for more.

An Afternoon with Otzi the Iceman

He’s an international man of mystery, media darling, and a murder victim. Otzi the Iceman was brutally killed about 5,300 years ago and is the oldest known natural human mummy in Europe. A German couple hiking the Otzal Alps discovered his body on September 19, 1991 on a glacier in Italy about 100 meters across the Austrian border — thus his nickname. We spent an afternoon with Otzi, not far from his birthplace in the Dolomites.

*Otzi’s final resting place is the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen, not far from where he was born and where his body was discovered 5,300 years later.*

After a brief custody dispute— both Austria and Italy laid claim to Otzi–research on his mummified body began at Innsbruck University in Austria. He has found a final resting place at Italy’s South Tyrol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano Bozen. Today, the entire museum is dedicated to Otzi and life in the Copper Age. Visitors can peek through a small glass window to view Otzi’s body, which is kept in a climate controlled, sealed vault. Be patient, there is always a line to see him.

*Otzi’s body is preserved in a viewable, climate- controlled vault but signage asks visitors to be respectful and refrain from photographing his remains. This acrylic model is provided for photos.*

*Scientists have created a remarkably life-like reconstruction of Otzi, one of the world’s most fascinating murder victims and Europe’s oldest natural human mummy.*

A 3-D reconstruction gives a surprisingly lifelike depiction of what Otzi would have looked like. He was believed to be 45 years old when he met his untimely death. At 5’3’’ and 110 lbs., he was short and stocky, but muscular. He wasn’t in the pink of health when his life was cut short, though. He had tooth decay, parasites and H. pylori, which would have caused numerous gastric issues. Scientists were able to retrieve and identify the contents of his stomach which included his last meal—red deer meat, unleavened bread and fruit and an herb called hop hornbeam. He likely took that to ease his tummy troubles. His hair had high levels of arsenic and copper particles, possibly from smelting copper, which may also have contributed to his ill health. None of these things killed him though.

*Otzi’s goat hide leggings, bearskin hat, and other garments were remarkably well preserved after 5,300 years entombed in a glacier.*

*Otzi’s leggings would have extended into his shoes for warmth and protection from the snow and rain.*

The garments and accessories Otzi was wearing when he met his demise were remarkably well preserved by his years of glacial entombment. His lambskin loincloth, goat hide coat and leggings, and bearskin hat are all on exhibit, along with what remains of his shoes with their cow hide laces. His shoes are really something to see- made from bearskin soles, deer hide uppers and tree bark netting, they were lined with grasses that acted like socks and cushioned his feet for the long treks he made through the mountains.

*Bearskin, deerskin, tree bark netting and hay-like grasses went into the construction of his shoes. Here you can see the structural foundation as well as what remains of his well worn shoes.*

Even his deerskin quiver and arrows survive. Because of the variety of animal skins used in his clothing and accessories, researchers believe that Otzi kept and herded domesticated animals like sheep, goats and cows, earlier than was previously thought.

*Scientists discovered blood, not his own, on Otzi’s goat skin coat, adding to the mystery around his murder.*

He also had a grass cape with him, either to wear as a raincoat or to sleep upon—or maybe both. Displays show how all of his garments fit together to protect him from the elements—pretty complicated!

*Drawings indicate how Otzi would have dressed. Fitting each item together was a lot more complicated than you’d imagine.*

Otzi liked ink! He is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the oldest person on earth to sport tattoos. His body is adorned with 61 of them made by rubbing charcoal dust into fresh wounds. These are certainly not the elaborate tattoos seen today—they’re mostly crosses and lines on his back, ribs, wrist and legs and may have been used for pain relief.

*The copper head on Otzi’s axe came from far-away Tuscany, which meant he traveled widely or traded or both.*

Researchers have been able to piece together a great deal about the life and times of Otzi the Iceman based on his clothing and the items found alongside him. He had a copper-bladed axe, which would have made him a high-status individual. The copper was from Tuscany, quite a distance away, so he traveled or traded or both. He also had a flint dagger from the Lake Garda area, arrows, incomplete shafts and longbow, plus a net. Otzi was a hunter.

*The articles found near his body give us great insights into Otzi’s lifestyle and activities. A backpack frame, shown here, was one of many personal belongings discovered with him in 1991.*

He had several wooden tools used to fashion clothes or utensils—he would have needed these to make repairs or construct needed items on his long treks. He also had a birch bark cylinder likely used to carry hot embers for quickly starting a cook fire and a complex fire-starting kit. These would have been handy on his journeys for cooking and for warmth. Otzi has shown us that people travelled more widely than previously believed during the Copper Age, trading goods, services and knowledge.

*Visitors can examine Otzi’s clothing, weapons, even the contents of his last meal, and learn what scientists have finally determined was his cause of death.*

Researchers know what the iceman wore and ate and likely what he did for a living, but mystery surrounded his murder until 2012. Was he struck in the head with a blunt object? Stabbed? Shot in the back with an arrow? Was there a fight? Or all of these things? Scrappy Otzi was definitely a hunter and a fighter. Blood from four different individuals was found on Otzi’s dagger, coat and on one of his arrows which could mean a battle. He had several broken ribs that had healed before death, and he had been struck in the head. His brain had evidence of clots which could have been from blunt force trauma that then caused stroke or embolism. He also had stab wounds on his hands. The likeliest cause of death was the arrow lodged in his left shoulder. Finally, in 2012, researchers agreed that Otzi had bled to death from the arrow wound.

*Otzi and the mysteries surrounding him have made him a popular media subject across the globe.*

Otzi’s discovery made quite a stir worldwide and was also marked by controversy. Once the significance of the find was reported, numerous people claimed to have found the body. The museum has an exhibit detailing much of the media coverage around him. Otzi is so scientifically important; the museum has a specific evacuation plan for him should a crisis arise that could damage him. He has opened a window into life in the Copper Age that would have remained closed, had those hikers not stumbled upon him back in 1991.

*Helmut and Erika Simon, a German couple, were credited with finding Otzi’s body on the Tisenjoss Pass, just over the Austrian border in Italy, while hiking in the Otzel Alps.*

In 2012 Otzi’s genome was sequenced using a bit of his hip bone, revealing he had brown eyes, type O blood, a predisposition to heart disease, was lactose intolerant, and may have had Lyme disease. His maternal line is extinct, but his paternal lineage is intact. In 2013, 19 Austrian men from a group of 3,700 tested, shared a unique genetic mutation with Otzi. Scientists believe that his descendants would have settled between the Dolomites and Sardinia— his genetic profile has much in common with Sardinians today —and that there are likely more of them alive today.

Our afternoon with Otzi was fascinating and we’d highly recommend a visit if you’re in the Bolzano Bozen area. Click here for more information.

Porto—Sinners, Saints, Art, and of course, Plenty of Port

Portugal’s second largest city, Porto, or Oporto as the British called it, has a vibrant cultural scene, beautiful churches and a fascinating history, but for many, it’s all about the port.

Port!

Port and port tastings draw visitors from all over the world —after all, the city is named for the fortified wine. All the big port houses are here, along with smaller cellars worth investigating. Just across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, you’ll find Sandeman, Taylor Fladgate, Grahams, Ferreira, Calem, Croft, Cruz, Ramos Pintos, Kopke, Cockburn and many others. Individual port houses vary in their offerings– there are guided tours, self-guided visits, port tastings, retail shops and several have restaurants on site.

Since there is so much to do in Porto and we had already spent time in the Douro Valley where the grapes for port are grown and the production of the fortified wine occurs, we decided to visit just one port house. We chose Taylor Fladgate because we also wanted to have lunch at Barao de Fladgate. Food is an important part of the travel experience!

Taylor offers a self- guided tour (with audio available in English) and port tastings in the garden afterwards. No reservations are needed for tours but they are required for lunch.

The self-guided tour, which includes a visit to the cellars, was fun and informative.

Visitors learn about the history of the wine, the area it comes from, and port production through photos, a short film and exhibits at Taylor Fladgate.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour, which covered the history and “how to” of port production, interesting information about the families behind the cellar, and included a short film, static exhibits, photographs, and a cellar visit.

Afterwards we were entertained by a group of peacocks and one very loud, very busy rooster who was clearly in charge, during our tasting in Taylor’s garden. There is also a well-stocked shop on the premises with relative bargains compared to the prices you’ll pay in the U.S. for ports of this quality.

Visitors have numerous choices for their port tasting.

This fellow clearly ruled the roost and let those peacocks know it.

Taylor Fladgate is the only port house we visited in both our visits to Porto, so we can’t give details on the others, though Grahams was also highly recommended. Check with all those you’re interested in for specifics.

Many of the larger port houses have tours and tastings. Check individual websites for updated information and to make reservations where required.

A water taxi goes back and forth from Porto to Vila Novo de Gaia for about 3 euro. It’s a short but pleasant ride and sometimes you can see the local boys jumping off the lower level of the Eiffel Bridge to the river below.

Taking a water taxi is a nice way to cross the Douro after port tasting and exploring Vila Nova de Gaia.

If you are a serious port person or just want to learn more and sample some of Portugal’s best known export, look into a visit at the Douro and Port Wine Institute’s Interpretive Center. A word of warning – port is a high alcohol, fortified wine so taste judiciously.

Museu Serralves– Contemporary Collections

A peek inside the enormous Anish Kapoor installation.

As we said, there’s much more to Porto than port. For contemporary art lovers, the Museu Serralves is a top draw. The museum, which showcases contemporary art from the 1960s through the present, recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Its vast collection includes more than 4,400 works either owned by the foundation or on long- term loan. Located in a beautiful park-like setting, it’s easy to reach by public transport, cab or Uber.

There are more than 4,400 works of contemporary art in the Museu Serralves’ collections.

Numerous models of famous works by Anish Kapoor, including Cloud Gate, informally known as the Chicago “Bean”, were on exhibit when we visited the museum.

The Incredible Hulk has international appeal.

There was so much to see and experience, we wound up spending almost all day at the Museu Serralves.

Some visitors practiced yoga and danced inside this Kapoor installation.

Museu National Soares dos Reis–– Porto’s First Public Art Museum

The oldest museum and first public art museum in Porto, the Museu National Soares dos Reis has been located in the beautiful 18th century Carrancas Palace since 1940.

“The Presence of History” by Pedro Valdez Cardoso, greets visitors at the Museu National Soares dos Reis. Duct tape and found objects were used to construct the sculpture.

The museum was originally created as a repository for artifacts like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal. — A 1934 terracotta sculpture by Canto da Maya is one thousands of pieces on display at Porto’s very first public art museum.

The museum was created as a repository for confiscated property seized when monasteries in Porto and other Portuguese cities, like Coimbra, were dissolved by the government.

The museum was created to house art and other treasures like these, seized when the government dissolved monasteries throughout Portugal.

Ceramics, glassware, textiles and furnishing are among the decorative arts on display here.

The museum’s collections include sculpture, paintings, textiles, furniture, ceramics, jewels and works such as a Roman sarcophagus found in the Alentejo region dating from the 3rd century, an 18th century French tapestry that tells the life story of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, and contemporary sculpture by Portuguese artists like Pedro Valdez Cardoso.

Portuguese Centre of Photography

Stories of spycraft, crime and photography converge at the Portuguese Centre of Photography near the Torre dos Clerigos. Yes, there are photo exhibits, but there’s much more in store for visitors here. The building itself, a former prison, is part of the story.

Housed in a former prison, the Centre of Photography includes exhibits about the people once incarcerated here.

Visitors can see cameras of every description including rare daguerreotypes, antique wooden cameras, spy cameras, and even disposable cameras. There are also exhibits about the prison and the people incarcerated within its walls, including political prisoners during the dark days of Salazar’s reign.

The Centre of Photography has special exhibitions as well as a permanent collection for visitors to enjoy.

The museum has revolving photo exhibitions as well as a permanent collection. We saw a fascinating exhibit of photos by and about the artist Frieda Kahlo.

Spy cameras used during Salazar’s tenure are on display along with vintage cameras and much more at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Former prison cells now house exhibitions at the Portuguese Centre of Photography.

Clerigos Tower– Torre dos Clerigos

While you’re in the area, consider a visit to the Clerigos Tower–– Torre dos Clerigos. A beautiful example of baroque architecture and a national monument since 1910, the tower offers expansive views of Porto.

Take a tour of this beautiful baroque landmark, a national monument since 1910.

Free or guided tours of this Porto landmark are available.

Se do Porto — The Cathedral of Porto and Churches Worth a Visit

A view of Porto’s Cathedral, or Se, at the top of the Praca da Batalha.

The Catholic Church has a major presence in Portugal and Porto has many marvelous churches filled with exquisite paintings, sculpture and azulejos. Visit the magnificent Porto Cathedral (Se do Porto) located in the Batalha area, the highest point in the city for the art and the views.

Though you’ll often read travel stories where you may be directed to “visit the Se Cathedral”, Se is the Portuguese word for cathedral, like duomo in Italian. Igreja means church. It is free to enter the Se but there is a small fee to visit the tower.

Inside the opulent Se do Porto, resplendent in gold and silver.

The Church of St.Francis or Igreja de Soa Francisco, Igreja do Carmo and the Carmelitas Church right next door, are also worth a visit.

Stop into Porto’s beautiful churches for some quiet reflection and to enjoy the art treasures within.

Located in Porto’s historic center in the building it has occupied since the mid 16^th century, MMIPO, the Museum of the Church of the Misericordia is worth a visit for its paintings, sculpture, religious articles and exhibits that tell the history of Porto’s Holy House of Mercy and the city itself. A visit to the museum includes entry to the church and is the only way to see it.

Porto’s Museum of the Church of Misericordia or Holy House of Mercy includes admission to the church, as well as the opportunity to view the fine art on exhibit.

Shop

If retail therapy is what you’re after, head over to Rua Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina is Porto’s main shopping street and is in the highest part of town, beginning at Praca da Batalha.

You’ll find all the well-known international brands and plenty of smaller, local stores along the busy street, as well as cafes and coffee shops including the famous Majestic Cafe.

The Majestic Cafe, open since 1921, is still a popular spot for coffee or a light meal.

Nearby, you’ll find Porto’s main market —Mercado do Bolhao. This is the place to pick up picnic provisions. If you’re lucky enough to have lodging that includes a kitchen, you can find fresh produce, charcuterie, cheeses, meats, and fish—everything you need to make a marvelous meal.

Sao Bento’s Azulejos

If you arrive in Porto by train and happen to come into the Sao Bento railway station, you’ll be treated to a remarkable display of azulejos – the fabulous blue and white tiles so famous in Portugal. Many people come to the station just to see the tiles, as we did.

The beautiful azulejos at Sao Bento rail station tell the story of Portugal and Porto’s rich history.

Rua da Ribeira Negra– Buskers, Bars and Boat Rides

The Rua da Ribeira Negra area is very busy and touristy but it is fun to walk along the river and enjoy the buskers and people watching. We saw people dancing, making music, and performing magic tricks.

The Rua da Ribeira is a lively area on the riverfront with cafes, bars and buskers.

Buskers sang, danced, performed magic, and blew giant bubbles hoping to collect tips from tourists on the Rua da Ribeira.

Most boat rides on the Douro River depart from Rua da Ribeira. We took an hour- long cruise–it was a nice ride and especially fun on a hot day! We did not book ahead—boats run regularly and there are a number of companies offering the same rides at the same prices. We picked the one leaving the closest to the time we wanted to go.

A boat ride on the Douro was the perfect antidote to a hot summer day.

Pick the river cruise that suits your departure time and length of journey. Most companies offer the same itineraries and rates.

Souvenir vendors line the riverfront. If you’re looking for cork products, tea towels and “typical” Portuguese goods, you’ll find them here.

Souvenir shopping under the Eiffel Bridge in Porto.

Shopping for tea towels for their new life together?

Sleep

Here, as in most cities, there are lodging options for all tastes and budgets. We stayed at the Eurostars Porto Douro just a 10- minute walk along the river to the Rua da Ribeira Negra area. The hotel is comfortable, clean and well- priced. Our large room had a little kitchenette perfect for making a cup of tea or a snack and the view from our balcony of the Eiffel Bridge, the boats and people passing up and down the river was unbeatable.

Our spacious corner room had a fabulous river view from the balcony.

The kitchenette was a nice addition to our room.

Breakfast was included in our rate and offered everything we could want from hot dishes to yogurt, fruit and pastries, including the Portuguese specialty pasteis de nata. The clientele was international and Americans were definitely in the minority here. We met some terrific fellow travelers and the front desk staff couldn’t have been more helpful.

The hotel has a well-priced laundry service (shirts were about 7 Euro), important since we rarely check luggage. There is not a full-service restaurant at the Eurostars but there is a bar serving light fare. There’s also a rooftop terrace with spectacular views and bar service during the summer months.

We enjoyed wonderful views up and down the river from the rooftop terrace at the Eurostars.

We also enjoyed a too-brief stay at the historic Infante Sagres Hotel in the heart of Porto. After an absolutely awful experience with the Rosa Et Al Townhouse’s self-catering apartment on our first visit to Porto, we sought refuge at this magnificent grand dame of a hotel with its lux lobby and beautifully appointed rooms. The elevator has vintage alligator- covered seats so guests can sit and enjoy the ride!

Old world luxury is a hallmark at the Infante Sagres in Porto.

Local Portuguese marble was used floor to ceiling in our spacious bathroom.

A comfortable bed in a blissfully quiet room was just what we needed after a very long day.

We were lucky to get even one night here at the last minute on a sold-out weekend. Somehow the front desk staff managed to book the next four nights for us at the Eurostars. We will always be grateful for their kindness.

The sumptuous breakfast buffet at the Infante Sagres can be enjoyed in the dining room or peaceful courtyard.

Whether port is your preference or art floats your boat, lace up your walking shoes and discover the myriad charms Porto’s winding, cobbled streets have to offer.

Sunnylands— A Midcentury Masterpiece

As a regular visitor to the Palm Desert area, I often wondered what was behind the big pink walls where Bob Hope and Frank Sinatra Drives intersect in Rancho Mirage. During Modernism Week I found out. Among the more than 350 events and activities offered during the 10-day tribute to Midcentury Modernism were tours of Sunnylands, the marvelous estate built by media mogul and philanthropist Walter Annenberg and his second wife, Lee.

The glass and Mexican lava rock midcentury marvel built by Walter and Lee Annenberg was conceived as a family home and high-level retreat for world leaders and luminaries from the arts, media and industry. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Conceived as both a family home to escape winters in Wynnewood, PA, where the couple maintained their permanent residence, and an intimate, high-level retreat where leaders of government and industry could meet privately to address national and global concerns, Sunnylands has successfully filled both roles since it was completed in 1966.

The centerpiece of the 200-acre estate is a fabulous glass and Mexican lava rock 25,000- square-foot midcentury home designed by architect A. Quincy Jones. It’s hard not to “ooh and aah” when the front door of the historic main house opens onto the spectacular great room with its pink marble floors, prolific planting, outstanding art collection (Rodin’s Eve surrounded by 300 pink bromeliads will be one of the first things you’ll see in the central atrium), exquisite furnishings, and panoramic desert views.

Art Price’s Welcome Birds, a favorite of the Annenbergs, greet visitors to Sunnylands.

Visitors on the 90-minute Historic House Tour, which is the only way to visit the home, learn all about the property and the people who designed, built, lived in and stayed at this wonderful estate. You’ll visit all of the rooms in the house including my personal favorite–the Room of Memories. It’s chock full of memorabilia marking momentous occasions, Christmas cards and thank you letters—some from British royalty, photos, portraits, and family mementos.

The Room of Memories has photos, portraits, letters, memorabilia, mementos and more documenting decades of visits to Sunnylands from famous guests and the historic role the house has played in U.S. history. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

The color-themed guest rooms (hint-Mrs. Annenberg’s favorite colors were yellow, pink and green), stunning dining room, cozy game room, and the kitchen, where visitors will get a peek at the incredible china collection the Annenbergs used to host dinners large and small, are all on the tour. Visitors also have access to the Annenberg’s private quarters, which were modified somewhat by Mrs. Annenberg after her husband’s death in 2002 at the age of 94.

*Comfortable guest rooms were color-themed and included Mrs. Annenberg’s favorites– yellow, green and pink. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

You’ll also see the Inwood Room, redesigned from its original purpose as a patio, to hold many of the antiques Mrs. Annenberg brought to Sunnylands after closing their Pennsylvania home, Inwood. She wanted a place that reminded her of her home in the East.

The Annenbergs, known for their support of the arts, filled Sunnylands with masterpieces by artists including Picasso, Degas, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Matisse, Rodin, Giacometti and Braque. Some of the paintings now on the walls are high-quality reproductions. Mr. Annenberg donated many of the original works to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where he was a trustee for many years.

*This Kwakiutl totem pole was commissioned by the Annenbergs and is located on the estate’s private nine-hole golf course.*

The grounds include a tennis court, private nine- hole golf course and no less than 11 lakes. Now operated by the Annenberg Foundation Trust, the estate has expanded to include 15 additional acres for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012. That’s the same year the property became accessible to the public.

Visitors to Sunnylands enjoy spectacular desert and mountain views. The private nine-hole golf course enjoyed by celebrities and world leaders is in the distance.

While Sunnylands served as the winter home of the Annenbergs, it was also designed to function as a private and intimate retreat for luminaries and world leaders. The guest list is as impressive as the property. Eight U.S. Presidents were among the notable visitors the Annenbergs welcomed to Sunnylands. Dwight Eisenhower, an avid golfer, was the first U.S. President to enjoy a round on the estate’s private course with Walter Annenberg.

President and Mrs. Reagan were good friends of the Annenbergs and frequent visitors to Sunnylands. Mr. Reagan was one of eight U.S. Presidents to have enjoyed their hospitality. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

Ronald Reagan, a good friend of the Annenbergs, was a frequent guest as President, and earlier, when he served as Governor of California. Along with his wife Nancy, a dear friend of Leonore “Lee” Annenberg, the Reagans were a fixture at the Sunnylands New Year’s Eve party for many years. Mr. Reagan held cabinet meetings and invited his top advisors to the estate. President Reagan’s treat of choice– Jelly Belly® jellybeans are still available in his favorite guest room. No detail that could add to a guest’s pleasure was too small to include at Sunnylands. Fun fact—the jellybeans are color-coordinated to match the bedding and upholstery!

*The Yellow Room was President Reagan’s favorite. Jellybeans were always on hand–color coordinated to match the room, of course. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.*

Richard Nixon, who was also a long-time friend of the couple and another frequent guest before, during and after his presidency, spent a number of months in seclusion at the estate after his resignation. His poignant thank you note is on display in the house.

George H.W. Bush held the only State dinner ever hosted outside the White House at Sunnylands for Prime Minister Kaifu of Japan in 1990. They were able to negotiate some difficult trade issues in the relaxed setting Sunnylands provided. President Bush also enjoyed fishing at the estate and preferred the Green Room for its proximity to the lake for early morning angling.

*President George H.W. Bush enjoyed early morning fishing in some of the 11 lakes on property at Sunnylands.*

Presidents Gerald Ford, George W. Bush and Bill Clinton all enjoyed the Annenberg’s hospitality at Sunnylands. President Obama was a three-time visitor, meeting with Chinese President Xi Jinping on one occasion and Jordan’s King Abdullah II on another. He also held a summit with 10 Association of Southeast Asian Nations leaders at the estate, which resulted in the “Sunnylands Declaration.”

President Obama and Chinese President Xi Jinping were photographed strolling near the reflection pool shown here.

Appointed by President Reagan, Walter Annenberg served as U.S. Ambassador to the Court of St. James and was awarded an Honorary Knightship (KBE) so it’s no surprise that Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Prince Charles, and other members of the British Royal Family were visitors to Sunnylands.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, shown here with Ambassador and Mrs. Annenberg, were guests at Sunnylands, along with other members of the Royal Family. Photo courtesy Annenberg Foundation Trust at Sunnylands.

U.S. Supreme Court Justices Sandra Day O’Connor and Anthony Kennedy, Secretary of State George Shultz, British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, Henry Kissinger, Barbara Walters, Colin Powell, Steve Forbes and other highly influential people from government, industry, media and the arts have all been feted at Sunnylands.

It hasn’t been all problem solving and high- level meetings at the estate though. Frank Sinatra wed his wife Barbara at Sunnylands and the couple were frequent guests at festivities there, including the social event of the year—the Annenberg’s annual New Year’s Eve party. Hollywood icons like Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, Kirk Douglas, Gregory Peck and Ginger Rogers have all been on the guest list. Photos capturing the Annenbergs and their famous friends at play are on display in the home.

Birding on the Estate tours are also available twice a week and must be booked online, in advance. An experienced birder leads the 90-minute excursion and all levels are welcome to participate.

All tours except the Open Air Experience must be booked in advance, online.

The historic main house can be visited only by guided tour, which must be booked online, typically one month in advance. Because access is limited, the Historic House Tour slots fill quickly. Plan ahead! This is the only tour that provides access to the home. Groups of seven are shuttled from the Visitor Center to the house for the 90-minute tour, which includes standing and walking—there is no sitting down and children under 10 are not permitted. Knowledgeable guides, many from local colleges, accompany visitors through the home and around the lushly landscaped exterior areas adjacent to the house, including the pool where you can channel your inner Hollywood icon preparing for a dip.

There is a separate tour available for the grounds without prior reservations. The Open Air Experience is a 45-minute trip aboard an electric shuttle around the exquisite estate with visits to various outdoor locations such as the private golf course where visitors can see a Kwakiutl totem pole built especially for the Annenbergs, the Chinese Pavilion where Mrs. Annenberg entertained lunch guests, the Annenbergs’ final resting place, sculpture including Birds of Welcome by Art Price, and much more. The Foundation’s commitment to sustainability and the steps being taken to preserve and protect plant and wildlife species on the grounds are also discussed during the visit. The Open Air Experience can be booked on a first come-first served basis during a visit to the Sunnylands Center and Gardens and unlike the other tours, does not require prior reservations.

Channel your inner Hollywood icon and imagine yourself preparing for a dip in the pool with some of the Annenbergs’ famous friends like Frank Sinatra, who was married at the estate.

The Sunnylands Center and Gardens are open to the public free of charge.

There is no admission fee for the Sunnylands Center and Gardens, which opened in 2012 and is family-friendly. Inside the glass-walled building guests can enjoy a short film that tells the history of the estate and the Annenbergs. This is well worth viewing before visiting the house or in lieu of, if you haven’t been fortunate enough to reserve space on a tour. There are art and photo exhibitions, historic photos, and memorabilia on display.

Enjoy the gardens while having a snack or light meal at the cafe.

Sunnylands Center and Gardens are family-friendly, though the tours do have age limits.

There’s also a gift shop and a small café for a casual lunch or snack, which can be enjoyed indoors or outside at the tables overlooking the garden. On a recent visit, families were playing games and picnicking on the garden’s central grassy grounds.

Meandering paths take visitors through the Sunnylands Gardens featuring more than 70 native and drought-tolerant species.

The expansive gardens include a labyrinth for peaceful mediation, meandering paths, reflection pools and more than 70 species of native plant life. The native and drought-resistant plants used in the landscape are clearly marked for the enjoyment of amateur botanists.

Visitors can walk the labyrinth and enjoy quiet meditation at Sunnylands Gardens.

Tours are not conducted while retreats and meetings are taking place on the property. No photos are allowed inside the house due to security concerns. The Annenberg Foundation graciously provided the interior photos I’ve included here. Sunnylands is not open during summer months. Please visit their website for current tour dates and ticket information.

Lisbon’s Beautiful Belem

The Belem district is a fascinating and historic area of Lisbon that ought to be on every traveler’s itinerary—and it appeared that it was on the Sunday we spent there! Packed with monuments, museums and many of Lisbon’s “must see” spots, it’s just about five miles from the downtown area. It’s easy to reach via bus, tram or cab. We took a 10 Euro taxi ride for the 20-minute trip from Lisbon’s city center. The tram costs less but takes nearly an hour and with so much to see, we opted to save time.

There’s plenty to see and do in Lisbon’s busy Belem area.

Belem was the launching point for many sea voyages during Portugal’s Age of Discovery. The Tower of Belem was the last thing sailors would see as they left port and the first site to welcome them home.

The Church of St. Jeronimos and its monastery are beautiful examples of the decorative Manueline architectural style.

Before setting off, many sailors would stop at the stunning Church of St. Jeronimos and its spectacular monastery to pray for a successful journey and a safe return. These gorgeous buildings are wonderful examples of the decorative Manueline architecture popular in Portugal in the late 1400s through 1500s.

St. Jeronimos and it’s spectacular monastery are among Lisbon’s most popular sites.

The entry fee for the monastery is 10 Euro and worth it. It’s stunning and surprisingly peaceful in spite of the crowds. Admission is free for the church. If you plan to attend mass, be punctual. We arrived late and no amount of pleading would make the guards open the church doors for us until services were over.

Visitors to the church can see the tomb of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama and the memorial to writer Luis de Camoes.

Entry to the Church of St. Jeronimos is free but there is a fee for the monastery.

We were directed to the end of a very, very long line. After standing around for quite some time, we realized there were no lines at the other end of the building and decided to go check it out. That’s when we found the National Archeology Museum.

Avoid the long lines at St. Jeronimos by buying a combo ticket for the Archeology Museum next door for an extra two Euro.

Here’s a tip we wished we’d known–walk right past those long lines in front of the monastery and church and make your first stop in Belem the National Archeology Museum.

The museum is full of ancient treasures and antiquities, some dating back to the Iron Age.

Buy a combo ticket for the museum and the monastery (the monastery is actually in the same building as the museum). For an extra two Euro, or 12 Euro total, you can enjoy the museum’s terrific exhibitions and avoid the crowds. The museum is a treasure trove of Egyptian, Roman, Greek, and Moorish artifacts. After touring the galleries, you’ll go directly into the monastery from the museum without waiting on the ever-present line.

This was the first megalith we saw and it inspired us to seek out the Almendres Cromeleque, home to 95 of these fascinating stones near Evora in the Alentejo area.

The museum has a rich collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Moorish art and antiquities. Be sure to visit the Room of Treasures in the museum. No photography is allowed in that area but the display of coins and jewelry from 1800 to 500 BC is impressive.

After touring the galleries in the National Archeology Museum, you’ll enter the Monastery directly without waiting on any additional lines.

This fascinating time line inside the monastery captures 500 years of world history in words and images.

In spite of the crowds, there are numerous serene spaces within the monastery perfect for quiet contemplation.

You may notice long lines around the bakery just up the street from the monastery. If you’ve been to Portland, Oregon, this may remind you of the lines around Voodoo Doughnuts. I’m always amazed by the patience people seem to have in their quest for particular baked goods, but back to Belem…

Lines for Casa Pasteis de Belem snake around the corner. Worth the wait? You decide.

This is the place that claims to have the original and the best Pasteis de Belem. These are little custard pastries in a flaky filo- like crust. Locals say these are good, but you’ll have to decide if they’re worth waiting for. We didn’t, but we haven’t ever waited for doughnuts either. They sell Pasteis de Belem in the Starbuck’s next door without the wait, though buying them there doesn’t quite have the same cachet. You can find these delicious pastries all over the country though they’re called Pasteis de Nata (nata is cream) or Pastel de Nata, if you’re only having one, everywhere else except Belem. Try one or two and remember to add a healthy shake of cinnamon and powdered sugar on top!

Time for lunch or dinner? Turn down this little street to find Enoteca de Belem.

If you’re hungry for a meal, we highly recommend the Enoteca de Belem (+351) 213 631 511 Travessa do Marta Pinto, 12. Located on a little alley off the main street in Belem, this is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner. It’s very small so book a table or prepare to be disappointed.

We were delighted with our lunch at Enoteca de Belem. Here’s a peak at the menu.

Sitting at the bar gave us a chance to learn about and taste delicious Portuguese wines.

We sat at the bar since we had missed our reservation time—the museum and monastery were so fascinating we spent far longer than we had anticipated. The bar turned out to be perfect for us because in addition to a fabulous lunch, we had a great chat and learned quite a bit about Portuguese wines and history.

The perfectly prepared scallops with cauliflower puree and quail eggs were as delicious as they looked.

The freshly caught grouper was the fish of the day. Served with “clam rice,” it was an incredibly flavorful dish.

Portuguese cuisine often pairs fish and pork. The tender grilled octopus and spicy chorizo was perfection on a plate.

This classic dessert, Papo de Anjo, reminded us of an upgraded rice pudding. Comfort food at its best!

Our lunch was incredible and one of the best meals we had in Lisbon. Try the scallops to start and the grouper or cod if they have it.

When we asked for the wine list, we were handed these vintage binoculars and instructed to look around and choose whatever we were interested in from the shelves above the bar. There was a printed list, as well, but selections change regularly– thus the binoculars.

We opted for wines by the glass so we could sample several. The staff were well- versed in the wide selection available and happy to make suggestions and answer questions.

The knowledgeable staff will be glad to help you match the appropriate wines to your food selections.

Sailboats and other pleasure craft ply the waters off the embarcadero. The Hippotrip looked like Lisbon’s version of the Boston Duck Tours. Could be fun, but we didn’t try it.

Next, take a walk along the water down to the Monument to the Discoveries, which honors Prince Henry the Navigator, and was built in 1960 to commemorate the 500^th anniversary of his death. Henry’s mother, Queen Filipa of Lancaster, Vasco da Gama, Magellan, King Manuel I and the poet Camoes are all depicted on the monument.

The busy waterfront is the perfect place to stroll and people watch. It’s possible to go inside the Monument to the Discoveries, which commemorates the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.

The Tower of Belem was the last bit of home Portuguese sailors saw as they set off to sea. It offers beautiful views but be prepared for long lines if you’d like to climb the 120 steps to the top.

Further on, you’ll see the famous Tower of Belem. It’s possible to climb 120 steps to the top of the tower for the views. Lines can be quite long. Let’s face it—there are lines for nearly everything you’ll want to see in this area so just be prepared for that. There’s an Atlas Hotel along the way with a nice terrace, perfect for an apperitivo if you’re ready for a break from touring– and the lines.

There is a lovely park near the waterfront and we happened to catch a good- sized open air market there on our visit.

On our walk back, we came upon an open air market selling everything from hand crafted ceramics, art and jewelry, to tea towels and mass-produced souvenirs. There was also a lively folk dance competition taking place in the park and we simply had to stop and watch for a while. It was delightful!

Troupe after troupe of talented folk dancers took the stage in the park. We joined the crowd to cheer them on.

Near the stage where the dancers competed, we spotted this pavilion. It was a 2012 gift from the Royal Thai Government to Portugal, celebrating 500 years of bilateral relations between the two nations.

We wished we had more time in Belem. We would like to have seen the Maritime Museum, Coaches Museum and the Ajuda Palace. Next time for sure!

Portugal’s Mysterious Megaliths

Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arqueologia has numerous treasures including megaliths.

We saw our first megalith in Lisbon’s Museum of Archeology and we were intrigued. What were these stones with their strange markings? Where could we see more of them? It turns out the largest collection of megaliths on the Iberian peninsula is located less than two hours from Lisbon in the Alentejo region not far from Evora, the area’s capital city.

Drive in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees to reach Almendres Cromlech.

There are numerous places to see megaliths in Portugal, many in the Alentejo, but Cromeleque dos Almendres, or Almendres Cromlech, is the largest and most prominent site. Older than Stonehenge, Cromeleque dos Almendres is located about seven kilometers off the main road, the N114, driving towards Evora from Lisbon. We were heading to the Evora after Lisbon and decided to include a stop to see these archeological wonders.

The megaliths are in a large clearing, surrounded by cork oak trees.

Head in the direction of Nossa Senhora de Guadalup through the beautiful forests of cork oak trees. The dirt road is clearly marked with signs–Cromeleque dos Almendres and Menhir dos Almendres– directing you to the site. You will either need a car or a taxi to get here. There is no public transportation available.

Visitors can wander freely around the 95 remaining megaliths, or menhirs, at Almendres Cromlech.

About 95 of the granite megaliths, also called menhirs, still stand in the area and date back to the Neolithic Period (4^th and 5^th century BC). The stones at Almendres Cromlech are arranged to form two rings and visitors are free to wander all around the area, though touching the stones is discouraged.

The Cromeleque dos Almendres is older than Stonehenge.

It is believed that the earliest stones were placed here in 6000 BC and that ancient peoples used the area at Almendres Cromlech until 3000 BC for religious purposes. There is still a great deal of mystery surrounding the purpose of the stones, their placement and the markings on them, but there is speculation that the site had astrological significance due to its latitudinal location.

The placement, purpose and meaning of the megaliths remains largely a mystery.

There is a map of the enclosure on site, which identifies particular menhirs and describes various markings on the different stones.

Helpful signs in English and Portuguese explain the history of Almendres Cromlech and a map of the area shows where the most important stones are located.

This is identified as megalith number 1 on the posted diagram. The markings are clearly visible.

A careful examination is required to see the ancient markings on many of the stones. Here’s a close up look at one.

Admission to the site is free. Guided tours can be arranged.

We chose to take a self-guided exploration of the area but guided tours can be arranged. We met a Canadian couple that had hired a tour company to take them out to Almendres Cromlech and explain the mysteries of this ancient site and they thoroughly enjoyed their visit. Admission to the site is free and there is plenty of parking.

Evora: The Alentejo’s Capital City

The Vasco da Gama bridge led us away from lively Lisbon to the rural beauty of the Alentejo.

An easy 90- minute drive southeast of Lisbon takes you to the expansive Alentejo region. Home to medieval villages, castles, palaces, pousadas, megaliths, wine producers, and vast agricultural lands, this beautiful area has something to please nearly all visitors. We made Evora, the capital of the region, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, our headquarters. This delightful small city is a great base from which to launch day trips to the many attractions in the area.

The Alentejo’s capital city is best explored on foot– wearing comfortable shoes, of course.

Remember to look up as you wander!

The historic city of Evora has interesting sites and several museums to explore. Just walking the winding streets is a fine way to spend a day, especially in the area around the Largo Conde de Vila Flor. After a pleasant stroll through the Praca do Giraldo, Evora’s bustling main square, we considered our options.

The busy Praca do Giraldo is at the heart of the city. Numerous shopping streets fan off from the Praca.

Cork is king in the Alentejo and is featured in souvenirs from sandals to handbags.

Portuguese pottery is also a popular souvenir.

Time was short so we had to make choices. We decided to save the Contemporary Art Museum for our next visit and headed over to the Museum of Evora, which was hosting a Chinese porcelain exhibition along with its permanent collections.

The Museum of Evora is housed in a former Episcopal palace built in the 17th century.

Beautiful Azulejos tiles line the stone staircase inside the museum.

Teapots, serving pieces, jewelry and other treasures from China are featured in the current exhibition at the museum.

Placards describe the fine Chinese porcelain plates on display in Portuguese and English.

The museum features paintings from the 15^th through 19^th centuries, drawings, engravings, 17^th and 18^th century furniture, and Roman sculpture from the 1^st and 2^nd centuries.

The museum is known for it’s 17th and 18th century painting and sculpture. This piece is by Antonio Teixeira Lopes.

Religious articles, like St. Blaise’s arm reliquary from the 17th century, are part of the permanent collection.

Visitors can see this striking bronze sculpture, statuary, mosaics and other artifacts from the Roman era.

Interesting archeological finds from the Neolithic Age and a collection of silver and gold religious pieces, and jewelry are also on display. There were few visitors on the day we were there.

Antiquities from numerous ancient civilizations are on view.

Artifacts from the Roman era line a courtyard hallway.

Just outside the museum is the Roman Temple from the 1^st century AD. Today, the ruins are undergoing restoration and are under wraps, but it is possible to see several of the Corinthian columns.

The Roman Temple which dates from the 1st century is mentioned in all the guide books, but until the restoration is complete, there isn’t much to see.

There is a small park behind the temple that offers nice views over the area beyond Evora and across the way you’ll find a lovely pousada, once a monastery that is now an upmarket hotel called Pousada dos Loios. Feel free to wander inside and take a step back into Portugal’s past. The restaurant here is open to the public.

Here’s a peek at the courtyard and restaurant at Pousada dos Loios.

This small park behind the Roman Temple provided a nice place to relax and enjoy the views over the city and surrounding countryside.

Many people line up at Evora’s Church of St. Francis to visit the Chapel of the Bones or Capela dos Ossis. The 16^th century chapel displays the bones and skulls of monks. We’ve seen the creepy Capuchin Crypt in Rome so felt no need to stop in after our visit to the church. The public gardens beside the church were much more appealing.

Inside the Church of St. Francis.

The Chapel of the Bones is a popular tourist attraction inside the Church of St. Francis.

If you have time, stop into Evora’s Cathedral or Se. It’s one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Southern Portugal and is said to be built on the site of a former mosque.

Here are the marvelously mismatched spires of Evora’s cathedral.

Close to the Church of St. Francis, you’ll find Evora’s morning market. The market is indoors and was smaller than some we’ve visited, but we also arrived fairly late in the morning after many of the vendors had closed up shop. Happily, there were several purveyors of tasty cheeses, cured meats, and fruits and vegetables still open.

Many vendors had already packed up and gone home by the time we arrived at the market but there was still plenty to choose from.

Everything you need for a nice picnic is right here–local pork products, sheep and goat’s milk cheeses and other tasty treats.

Evora has lodging options to fit many budgets and preferences. We chose to stay at two very different, but both delightful properties in and near the city. We began our stay at the lovely Albergaria do Calvario, just inside the walls of the city www.hotel@albergariadocalvario.com.

We enjoyed our stay at the small, well-located Albergaria do Calvario.

Located just inside the ancient Roman walls, it was easy to walk all around the city and access the freeway quickly for daytrips from our hotel.

The location made it easy to walk to Evora’s important sites as well as to dinner each evening. It was also convenient to reach the freeway for our day trips further afield. We’ll discuss dining and day trips in additional posts.

The comfortable bar area welcomes guests for drinks and light bites.

Ours was a large, comfortable room with a big balcony overlooking the hotel’s courtyard where many guests enjoyed breakfast, aperitifs, and conversation. Rooms vary substantially in size so be sure to explore your options when booking.

Our room was large and bright with a huge balcony overlooking the courtyard.

The marble used here is mined nearby. There is a Museum of Marble in Vila VIcosa we”ll visit next time.

There is no restaurant per se in the hotel, but they do provide a substantial breakfast buffet and have small meals, snacks, and drinks on offer in the bar. Anything ordered can be enjoyed in the courtyard, the bar area or one of the comfortable sitting areas.

This is just a small part of the bountiful buffet breakfast greeting guests each morning.

The courtyard provides a pleasant place to enjoy breakfast, drinks, or just relax.

Friendly staff are happy to help with restaurant bookings, excursion ideas or whatever you need to make your stay memorable.

The staff is extremely helpful and will even park and retrieve your car for you. Parking is available onsite at no additional charge. Laundry service is also available at a very reasonable price. The only thing we missed at this charming, small hotel was a pool, but we got that at our next hotel–Convento do Espinheiro Hotel & Spa.

Welcome to the Convento do Espinheiro.

We also spent several nights about 15 kilometers outside of Evora at the stunning Convento do Espinheiro. The converted convent was built in 1458 and when we stayed, was part of the Luxury Collection group managed by www.starwood.com. The property has traditional rooms in the original buildings as well as two modern wings.

We had a large room in the modern wing of the hotel, complete with a nice balcony.

We enjoyed our stay in the modern wing where we had a very large room with a balcony and views over the property towards to the inviting swimming pool. After nearly 10 days of non-stop touring it was the perfect place to take break.

The pool provided the perfect place for relaxation, lunch, drinks and a refreshing dip.

There is also an indoor pool and a nice spa on site where I enjoyed a relaxing massage. There are tours given daily of the expansive Convento which covers the property’s fascinating history.

Ancient olive trees dot the property which dates back to 1458.

These stone benches have been here since the property was a functioning convent.

There is no charge for the tour, which includes a visit to the beautiful church (still in use), monk’s cistern where a complimentary wine tasting is held each evening, the former dining area and kitchen, as well as the vaulted storage cellar which now houses the hotel’s terrific restaurant.

Convento do Espinheiro was one of the three wealthiest convents in Portugal. The church is still in use today.

The bells, one original, ring out to announce a wedding has taken place.

The wine cellar is housed in the monk’s former cistern, which was once filled with water.

A complimentary wine tasting take place each evening at 6 p.m. in the wine cellar.

We ate dinner there each night of our stay. The food is artfully prepared and beautifully presented by top-notch staff. Be sure to reserve for dinner or prepare to be disappointed—the dining room fills up. Should you choose to go offsite for your dinner and prefer not to drive, the helpful staff can arrange for a taxi into Evora.

Fresh local fish elegantly prepared is served with flair.

Luscious lamb chops with squash puree are featured on the menu.

Save room for dessert.

Where monks once stored their wine, olive oil and honey, hotel guests now enjoy a bountiful breakfast buffet. It is possible to enjoy your morning repast out on one of the terraces or in the courtyard area, as we did.

The former storage for olive oil, wine and honey, now serves as the hotel’s elegant dining room.

We also arranged to see some of the traditional rooms including the “royal suite” used by many honeymoon couples. It is truly spectacular in a beautiful old-world way and features a contemporary bathroom and private rooftop terrace.

The “royal suite” often used by honeymooners offers old world charm and opulence.

The suite’s bathroom features modern fixtures like this free standing tub.

A private rooftop terrace, one flight up from the suite provides glorious views of the area around the Convento.

If your travel plans include a trip to Portugal, don’t miss the beautiful Alentejo. We’re looking forward to our return to this fascinating area.

Hats Off to Degas–Lucas Shakes Things Up at SF’s Legion of Honor

San Francisco’s venerable Palace of Legion of Honor, part of the city’s Fine Arts Museums, is currently hosting the very popular Degas, Impressionism and the Paris Millinery Trade.

The extensive exhibition focuses on the impact of the millinery trade in Paris during the Belle Epoch era on the work of Degas and his contemporaries. Paintings and pastels by Degas, Renoir, Edouard Manet, Mary Cassatt, Toulouse- Lautrec and others, some never before shown in the U.S., are featured. In addition to the splendid impressionist paintings, included in the exhibition are 40 marvelous examples of millinery from that time period—in other words—hats!

Hats featuring flowers were popular in the 19th and 20th centuries. Silk, cotton, velvet and paper were all used to construct artificial flowers like those shown here.

Some patrons were definitely in the spirit of things.

These hats range in size and complexity from the sublime to over the top. One chapeau is topped with an entire owl, which had been preserved specifically for that purpose. There are plumes, beads, metallic wire, ribbons and flowers adorning these mostly enchanting toppers.

Plumage from domestic and exotic birds, including ostrich and owls, often were used to embellish luxury ladies’ hats.

These hats all sport fashionable feathers. The hat on the left features a complete owl while the one on the right has an African starling above its brim.

A visitor admires Manet’s “At the Milliner’s”–one of about 40 paintings and pastels in the exhibition.

Men’s hats are included in the exhibit too. There are fine examples including boater and bowler hats, along with a sketch of Degas himself in a top hat.

Bowlers and top hats, along with carrying cases, are part of the exhibit.

The 42 year-old Edgar Degas is shown here wearing a top hat.

The exhibition was quite crowded, mostly with ladies of a certain age, oohing and ahhing over the millinery creations. There were a few patrons sporting hats and we spotted several of the museum’s docents in the spirit of things– wearing lovely fascinators.

Feathered finery got a lot of attention from visitors.

We didn’t take a docent-guided tour but shared our table at lunch with a group of ladies from the San Jose area who had and raved about it. It is necessary to reserve a spot for a guided tour in connection with this exhibit.

This docent wears a fine fascinator for her presentation. Reservations for the free tours are essential for this exhibition.

Some of the Impressionist paintings in this exhibition have not been shown in the U.S. before.

Special exhibition tickets are required for the Degas exhibit, in addition to the general admission fee for the museum. This doesn’t seem to be keeping the crowds away at all downstairs. There were numerous tour groups vying to get close to the works during our midweek trip to the Legion of Honor.

Special exhibition tickets are required, in addition to general admission. The galleries became quite crowded at times.

Upstairs in the galleries featuring Rodin’s classic sculpture, visitors can enjoy near solitude—at least during our visit. Displayed with the August Rodin: The Centenary Installation, which honors the 100th anniversary of the artist’s death, you’ll find the provocative work of Sarah Lucas. Sarah Lucas:Good Muse is the first major exhibition of the UK artist’s work in the U.S.

The museum is best known for its ancient and classical European collections which includes paintings, sculpture, furnishings and porcelain.

Sarah Lucas’ work brings contemporary art and controversy to the Legion of Honor.

Sarah Lucas:Good Muse would probably be much more comfortable at the SFMOMA (SF Museum of Modern Art) than at the classically- focused Legion of Honor. The docent who provided a tour of the exhibition shared that many patrons and members of the museum were more than a little unhappy with Lucas’ work.

Giant plaster cast boots, soft sculptures and a series of Lucas’ yellow urinal sculptures are on display among the 50 bronze, plaster and marble works by Rodin.

Lucas’ sculptures, made from plaster, panty hose, florescent lights, a bedspring and mattress, cigarettes and other materials, allude to sexual interactions, availability, empowerment, and domestic responsibilities, according to the docent. She also pointed out examples where Rodin’s work related to the themes of Lucas’ pieces.

“Washing Machine Fried Eggs” invites discussion of women’s sexual and domestic roles.

Apparently the artist wanted to “bring color” to the galleries and chose to include a series of yellow urinal sculptures displayed atop small refrigerators, placed among Rodin’s classic sculpture. We found the juxtaposition interesting but could easily understand the contretemps. At the entrance to the galleries where Lucas’ work is displayed, there are signs warning that the art may not be appropriate for all viewers. We have chosen not to include photos of the most controversial work for that reason.

Electricity in this piece “keeps the energy up” according to the artist.

Degas, Impressionism and the Paris Millinery Trade closes September 24 and Sarah Lucas: Good Muse closes September 17. Go see these very different exhibitions for yourself and let us know what you think. A day at the Palace of Legion of Honor is always a day well spent.

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